From the Sector

EURATEX has just released its Spring report, offering a detailed insight into trade figures for the European textile and apparel industry in 2021. The numbers are encouraging: comparing with the dramatic corona-year 2020, EU exports of textile and clothing articles increased by +10.6%, while imports dipped by -7.5%. As a result, the EU trade deficit improved, even it remains significant (- €48 billion).

Furthermore, import prices went slightly down in clothing and dropped in textiles, following a strong decrease of Chinese import prices of face masks and protective medical supplies.

The boost in exports was mainly due to strong performance on the Swiss, Chinese and US markets. On the other side, EU sales of textile & clothing to the United Kingdom fell sharply (-23%), due to Brexit new requirements, customs’ delays and shortage of truck drivers.  Imports from the EU top supplier, China, plunged by -28%, corresponding to €13 billion. Similarly, textile and clothing imports from the United Kingdom recorded a sharp decrease over the period (-48%, equal to €-3 billion).

Director General Dirk Vantyghem commented: “the 2021 export figures, presented in this Spring report, confirm that EURATEX members have gained momentum; even if energy prices are causing some serious short-term disruptions, our long-term ambition remains to be a world leader on sustainable textiles.”

The international trade dimension is indeed critical for the competitiveness of the European textile ecosystem, and needs to be fully embedded in the EU’s Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. The Commission insists that “all textile products placed on the EU market, are durable, free of hazardous substances, produced respecting social standards…” This is an essential condition to create a level playing field between all textile and apparel companies, regardless of their production base. With €100 billion of imports, and over 20 billion of “foreign” textile items put on the Single Market, this requires a dramatic upscaling of market surveillance, without however disrupting fluid supply chains.

Looking at the impact of war in Ukraine, EURATEX has strongly condemned the Russian aggression, and offered support to the Ukrainian textile industry. Ukraine offers valuable sourcing opportunities for European textile and apparel brands, as part of a broader nearshoring trend, which seems to emerge from the trade figures.

• Revenue Increases to HK$8,316 Million with Net Profit After Tax Surging Significantly
• Recording a Turnaround to HK$381 Million
• Re-Establishes ESPRIT’s Market Leadership

ESPRIT HOLDINGS LIMITED has announced its audited financial annual results for the year ended 31 December 2021, highlighted by a significant increase in both revenue and profit attributable to shareholders of the Company to HK$8,316 million and HK$381 million respectively, in which the profit attributable to shareholders of the Company also recorded a turnaround versus the loss attributable to shareholders of the Company of HK$414 million for the six months ended 31 December 2020. Gross profit margin was 48.6%, 7.0% higher than the Corresponding Period. Please refer to the Company’s results announcement for the Current Year for further details.

Such financial improvement was attributable to various reasons, including (i) the new infrastructure and strategies instituted by the current management team; (ii) improvement in sales with higher gross profit margin; (iii) positive results of efficient cost control measures; (iv) improved inventory management; and (v) growth in E-commerce.

Although revenue in the Current Year was affected by lockdowns in the Company’s major European markets during the first quarter of 2021, and due to increased restrictions on entry requirements into stores during the fourth quarter of 2021, the Group generated revenue via three main channels: E-commerce, wholesale, and owned retail stores. As the ESPRIT brand website and third-party E-commerce partners continued to trade during lockdown, a large portion of the Group’s sales were generated online. This business model allowed it to mitigate some of the negative impacts of the Pandemic in the retail segment. Another driver of growth came from selling fewer discounted products from the Company’s retail business compared to 2020.

The Group has not forgotten the ESPRIT mission and long-standing commitment to sustainability. The Company has continued to work tirelessly towards developing cutting-edge materials that set new standards in terms of environmental sustainability. The Company has formulated and further advanced its ESG strategies to establish ESPRIT as an industry pioneer. Such strategies involve the greater use of sustainable fibers, developing new and innovative product options that support a circular economy, and ensuring environmental awareness is a key message that underpins all of the Group’s projects. To achieve these objectives, the Management has identified four key pillars of growth (Sourcing and Procurement; Marketing and Product; IT, Internet, and E-commerce; and The ESPRIT Brand Story) that are paramount in maintaining the loyalty of existing ESPRIT patrons and attracting new customers.

Looking ahead, the global economy is anticipated to be negatively affected by the lingering effects of the coronavirus pandemic and the conflict in Ukraine. The already unstable logistics industry and disrupted supply chain will likely be further impacted, which in turn will result in higher logistic service costs. Despite the unfavorable global economic outlook, the Group believes that under the leadership of its current management and with the support of dedicated staff members, the Company is on track to ongoing profit growth.

Premium Group, important trade fair organiser in the German fashion industry and biggest player for advanced contemporary fashion in Europe, is returning to the capital and, in July 2022, is set to present a completely new live event concept around the Berlin Radio Tower and summer garden.
 
Interactive live event concept for B2B and D2C and redefines the future of fashion fairs
After decades of everything being the same, the constantly changing market environment forces brands, retailers, consumers and trade fair organisers alike to continuously develop and reposition themselves. Two years after the start of the pandemic, the Berlin-based company is now reacting with a surprising step: Anita Tillmann, Jörg Arntz and the team are bringing their passion for people, fashion, innovation and entertainment back home and setting new standards for live fashion events.
 
The creators of PREMIUM, SEEK, FASHIONTECH and THE GROUND are redesigning the sustainability of future-proof fashion fairs with the commitment of the Berlin government, and launching a completely new event concept in which the B2B and D2C sectors merge. In the new Premium Group cosmos, brands can present themselves emotionally and interactively to retailers and consumers. All realities are represented: the new kids in the industry, such as D2C brands, e-com and influencers, are given their place in the Premium Group cosmos in the form of the new fashion festival THE GROUND. But also long-standing partners of established brands and representatives from traditional stationary retail will profit from further developed B2B spaces.

Taking into account the different needs of all visitors, the events will take place from Thursday to Saturday for the first time: from 7 to 9 July 2022.
 
Classic trade fair formats are no longer up to date
'Classic trade fair formats are no longer up to date', sums up Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the Premium Group. 'We have to reinvent ourselves and look to the future – to a new stage in the life of the fashion industry post pandemic, which has changed everything. Digitisation, climate change, pandemic, changing values, new industry cycles and new players, as well as topics around gender equality, diversity, metaverse, gaming and NFTs, are just a few areas we are dealing with. We aim to set new standards for the future of trade events and merge B2B and D2C with our new event concept.'
 
Move to Frankfurt am Main fell victim to the coronavirus
The planned kick-off of the Premium Group Events in Frankfurt am Main could not take place because of the coronavirus, and the plan to establish the events at the new location has fallen victim to the pandemic.
 
'It's a shame that the move to Frankfurt didn't work out', says Jörg Arntz, Managing Director of the Premium Group. 'We all tried very hard and did our best. As an entrepreneur, you always have to remain capable of acting and questioning decisions that have been made. In order to do justice to our customers and the market environment, we have decided – after intensive discussions with the city of Berlin – to hold our events in our home city again. We are Berliners at heart and are confident that the new government will anchor Berlin as Europe's creative metropolis in a sustainable and economic way.'

New government brings Premium Group power back to Berlin
“Berlin is THE metropolis for the cultural and creative industries and Europe's largest start-up scene. As the new state government, we are committed to an economically strong Berlin. Trade fairs and events are an important economic factor and a centre of attraction for Berliners and guests from all over the world. We are therefore delighted that we have succeeded in bringing the events of the Premium Group back home”, says Franziska Giffey, Mayor of Berlin.
 
“The Premium Group events strengthen Berlin as a fashion and trade fair location, attract tens of thousands of trade visitors and fashion enthusiasts, create additional economic effects in hotels, gastronomy, retail and the service industry, multiply the global appeal of the city as a location and will open the summer of creativity brilliantly in July. The fact that the fair organiser is returning to its home venue with a new concept is a special opportunity for Berlin and will give the city an additional boost. Opening up the events to end consumers ideally rounds off the trade fair concept. With the Premium Group, Berlin will sustainably strengthen the core themes of fashion and digital transformation”, says Stephan Schwarz, Senator for Economics, Energy and Operations.

DyStar is pleased to announce the release of its eleventh annual Sustainability Performance Report. The report is written in accordance with the GRI Standards: Core option, while using the Integrated Reporting <IR> framework to communicate how DyStar drives value creation across multiple stakeholder groups in six capital categories, namely financial, manufactured, intellectual, natural, human capital and social capital.

In FY2020, COVID-19 has continued to present its challenges, such as the shortage of raw materials and rising freight costs. Gloomy global demand has also resulted in some raw and product material wastage in production plants worldwide, leading to increased non-hazardous waste output for FY2020. DyStar recognizes these global factors in play and will continue to make active efforts within the organization’s capability to reduce its environmental footprint in the years ahead.

The Group has set its sight on achieving the 2025 sustainability target of reducing its production footprint by 30% from 2011 levels for every ton of production. “We will continue to innovate and develop a wide range of products and processes that improve environmental performance and reduce carbon footprint across our value chain”, said Mr Xu Yalin, Executive Board Director of DyStar Group.

Mr Eric Hopmann, CEO of DyStar Group added: “We are also developing various projects in anticipation of future demands from customers as well as adopting more environmentally friendly technologies and improve our workflows and processes. Some of our projects include traceability programs, adopting renewable energy technologies, and digitalizing our business processes.” Understanding the importance of collaborative efforts to drive sustainability across the value chain, DyStar seeks to continually support industrial innovations and develop strategic partnerships to work towards becoming a sustainable and trusted leader in the industry.

The 48^th INNATEX is opening its doors at the Messecenter Rhein-Main in Hofheim-Wallau from 31 July to 2 August 2021. More than 200 labels are poised to appear at the international trade fair for sustainable textiles. Following a long string of industry gatherings being cancelled due to COVID-19, the summer trade fair is a first opportunity for the sector to get together. All visitors are required to register digitally  in advance of the fair.

The pandemic has presented an opportunity to launch new projects. They include a special zone created in collaboration with GIZ GmbH, the German society for international development, which will shine a light on African designers. 13 labels from Ethiopia, Kenya, Rwanda, South Africa, Tanzania, and Uganda will present their ideas for sustainable textiles and fashion products.

The starting point for the special area is a virtual trade fair, commissioned by the Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development. GIZ GmbH has realised the joint project in cooperation with several partners; its physical extension can be visited at INNATEX.

Exhibitors include well-known pioneers and young newcomers
The IVN (International Association of Natural Textile Industry), which sponsors INNATEX, is staging its own pop-up showroom. In doing so, the association is creating its own curated space, showcasing the diversity and special features of its members. The future objective is to expand this space with the organiser to create a growing Concept Area that introduces visitors to different ways of presenting green fashion.

Besides the IVN, the Global Organic Textile Standard, the Green Button and Fairtrade are among the other standardisation bodies represented at the fair. In addition, a special exhibition entitled “Fashion in the Hood” (Fashion im Kiez) and delivered by the young interest group “Frankfurt Fashion Movement”, helps visitors join the dots in the fashion industry. Among the labels exhibiting at the fair for the first time are Active Wear by Klitmøller Collective from Denmark, Organic Fashion by Bibico from the UK and Italian sneaker brand ACBC.

BÖNNIGHEIM - Textile testing and research partner Hohenstein has reason to celebrate: this year marks the company’s 75th anniversary. Now in its third generation of family ownership, the company will spend this landmark year expanding its foundation for the future. Owner Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels is proud: "Our motto, We live textiles, expresses exactly what has made us special for many decades - our collective enthusiasm for textiles and the opportunity to provide solutions that make a difference in the world.”

Successful Roots

Prof. Dr.-Ing. Otto Mecheels laid the foundation for an internationally-renowned company in 1946 when he founded the Hohenstein Institutes, a textile school in Hohenstein Castle. His son, Prof. Dr. rer. nat. Jürgen Mecheels modernized the Hohenstein Group’s business structures and expanded into new research and service areas such as textile finishing or professional laundries/dry cleaning. He helped to forever change textile safety with the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification system that protects consumers from harmful substances. Under Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels’ leadership since 1995, Hohenstein has been at the forefront of microfiber analysis, consistently perfected its created standards for comfort and compression testing and worked to reduce the industry’s ecological impact. Last but not least, the testing laboratory in Hong Kong, which has been in operation since 2011, and the Hohenstein textile testing laboratories in Bangladesh and India, which were opened in 2018, ensure even greater market proximity.

Solutions for the Global Textile Industry

Today, Hohenstein specializes in the testing, certification and research of all kinds of textile-related products. With a total of more than 1,000 employees at its headquarters in Bönnigheim and in more than 40 branches, contact offices and laboratories worldwide, the company faces the current challenges of the global industry.

"Textile sustainability remains a major focus for us and is woven through every decision we make," explains Stefan Mecheels. “Even services that are seemingly focused on innovation contribute somehow to longer lasting products, less waste and more safety. Our Digital Fitting Lab helps brands leap forward with digitized apparel development. Using modern 3D and 4D technologies and our traditional fit and pattern expertise, we help our clients design better fitting clothes with fewer prototypes and less waste.”

When SARS-CoV-2 struck, the company developed a quality label to easily identify non-medical, community masks that meet legal and functional requirements. The Hohenstein Quality Labels are independent proof with a high level of credibility among buyers and consumers.

Anniversary

Among the celebrations, Hohenstein plans to hold a mid-year press conference with regional and industry journalists. "We are celebrating this anniversary because we have succeeded in constantly adapting to the market and use our applied research to anticipate developments. For this I would first like to thank our employees, who, in keeping with the motto We live textiles, put their hearts and souls into their work. A very special thanks also goes to our customers, some of whom have been placing their trust in us for decades," says Stefan Mecheels, adding "I am convinced that we are positioned to continue our contribution in the future.

Belgian textile innovator Devan Chemicals was lauded by Frost & Sullivan for its antimicrobial technology with proven quaternized silane chemistry, known under its trade name as BI-OME®.

RONSE, BELGIUM – The non-leaching attributes of the technology coupled with its ability to reduce microbial mutation make it a potential candidate for textiles where durability and safe human contact are highly valued.

Based on its recent analysis of the European antimicrobial technology for the textile market, Frost & Sullivan recognizes the Belgium-headquartered Devan Chemicals NV (Devan) with the 2020 European Technology Innovation Leadership Award. Devan’s highly relevant antimicrobial technology addresses issues concerning the contamination of PPE and textiles, including the spread of drug-resistant bacteria, viral transmissions, and hospital-acquired infections (HAIs). Its quat-silane technology, due to its non-migrating behaviour, physically punctures the microorganism cell to destroy it without interfering with cell DNA. Notably, it eliminates the adverse effects of leaching antimicrobials while providing high efficiency in the range of 99.9 percent to 99.99 percent, even after multiple washes.

"By providing non-migrating antimicrobial technology for the textile industry, Devan plugs the safety and performance gaps inherent in current inorganic and organic antimicrobial agents. Its antimicrobial technology, unlike silver- or triclosan-based technology, comprises non-migrating monomers and prepolymers such as organo-functional silane," said Monami Dey, Industry Manager, Frost & Sullivan. "The organo-silane polymers are covalently bonded and polymerized to the textile surface as a coating via padding, exhaust, and spraying techniques. The coating forms a non-leaching reactive surface and destroys the microbes on contact, without releasing harmful components into the environment."

Devan CEO Sven Ghyselinck is very happy with the award: “The best practice award is a nice recognition of the hard work we did in the last 6 months to evaluate the performance against viral activity. It’s great to see our efforts didn’t go unnoticed.”

Earlier this month Devan published new test results confirming the high performance virus-reducing capabilities of its BI-OME fabric coating technology on both unwashed and intensely washed fabrics. The Belgian company has worked closely with a series of international third party laboratories to test different fabric substrates against a wide range of enveloped viruses. Before washing, samples treated with Devan BI-OME score very good to excellent (99% and higher according to ISO 18184) results on virus reduction. Different substrates, like polyester, cotton and polycottons, were exposed to enveloped viruses like SARS-COV-2 (known to cause COVID-19), Feline Corona, Vaccinia (the EU standard for enveloped viruses) and Porcine Respiratory viruses. After 30minutes, BI-OME already reduced 99.96% of the activity of SARS-COV-2.

After washing, a decrease in virus reduction performance of coating technologies is normal and expected. However, BI-OME is confirmed to deliver only a minimal reduction, retaining up to 98.5% virus reduction even when the fabric is washed 25 times.

"Devan is working towards sustainability and green chemistry. For instance, its technology does not contain any harmful solvents such as formaldehyde or polychlorinated phenols and fulfills the regulatory obligations of the EU BPR," noted Dey. "Its commitment to promoting sustainability in textile finishes with a strong focus on GMO-free, kosher, as well as halal certifications, and recyclability has given the company an edge in launching new products at an accelerated pace to match customers’ most pressing concerns and demands."

One of those innovations is BI-OME NTL (natural), a natural, bio-based antimicrobial solution that guarantees an optimal freshness and hygiene for textiles. The active ingredient is the well-known Linseed oil, obtained from the dried, ripened seeds of the flax plant. The active ingredients in BI-OME NTL are GMO free, Halal, Kosher and recyclable.

Finavia will start disinfecting security control trays with UVC light technology that kills bacteria and viruses. During the pilot project, equipment based on different technologies will be tested at a number of security control lines.

“Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, we already upgraded the cleaning process of security control trays during the spring, but the aim of the pilot project is to raise hygiene standards to a new level and find the best UVC disinfection method for the airport environment. Our expectations are high for the performance of the equipment we are piloting,” says Finavia’s Ulla Lettijeff, Helsinki Airport Executive Director.

The disinfection technology tested at the airport is based on UVC light, used for the cleaning of surfaces in, among others, health care and the food industry. UVC effectively destroys bacteria on surfaces.

The aim is to first carry out a pilot to gain experience of the new technology. The pilot involves testing of a variety of different equipment in order to find the product that best suits the airport environment.

The technology is supplied among others by the Finnish company LedFuture Oy, which delivered a pioneering LED-technology based disinfection solution for testing by Finavia. According to LedFuture, the UVC-LED disinfection technology is energy efficient, environmentally friendly and quick in comparison with traditional cleaning methods, and it is based on research by the University of Helsinki, the University of Eastern Finland and the Finnish Institute for Health and Welfare (THL). 

• The quality of Sappi’s Algro Design Advanced solid bleached board makes the difference for Wolford

The unique combination of physical and optical features combined within the Algro Design range of products, convinced the textile manufacturer, Wolford, to use the range to package its innovative face mask. When creating the packaging solution for its ‘Care Mask’ the company chose to combine the premium 350 gsm Algro Design Advanced solid bleached board with extremely challenging ink covering and a number of finishing options. The end result is a packaging solution that is as elegant as it is creative and as a result, perfectly complements the product inside.

• Premium packaging for premium products
• Perfect for complex graphic applications
• Unique service from the innovation leader Sappi

Wolford, founded in Bregenz, Austria, in 1950, is the global market leader in skinwear ‘made in Europe’. Since its establishment, the company has come up with numerous product innovations and is always at the cutting edge. Even before the coronavirus pandemic hit Europe, product developers were considering the idea of launching their own face mask protection, having witnessed the effects of the coronavirus SARS-CoV-2 in Asia. Thanks to an outstanding, highly efficient development division, a new product, ‘Care Mask’, was quickly brought to market.

It meets the high-quality standards of Wolford and consists of a premium, soft, breathable material that ensures high wearing comfort. Wolford is particularly proud that such a high-quality product could be developed in just a few weeks, despite reduced working hours and staff working from home. It generally takes some time to progress from development to product maturity. In this case however, everything was ready for market launch within two weeks.

Top quality meets top quality

Alongside the product, Wolford developed an appropriate packaging solution for their high-quality product, in collaboration with their in-house graphics department. To enable the ‘Care Mask’ to be quickly launched, a suitable material needed to be found, which could meet Wolford’s high standards in terms of quality, appearance and feel.
 
Wolford’s long-term partner, Sappi Europe had the perfect solution right away with its 350 g/m2 Algro Design Advanced solid bleached board. Thanks to its double-coated top and lightly coated back, the material from the innovation leader is a perfect choice for premium packaging.

The high brightness and silky, soft touch of the paperboard gives the packaging a premium, exclusive look and feel. The colour brilliance of Algro Design Advanced and the continuous, precise reproduction of complex print motifs were exactly what Wolford was looking for and met the high standards of the brand. Thanks to its additional outstanding finishing and processing properties, further processing with grooves, hot-foil embossing, paint finishes and adhesives was also easily achievable, which made it perfect for Wolford’s needs.

Service comes first at Sappi

Product capability alone was not enough for this venture however. To allow Wolford to achieve their goal of two weeks from inception to market ready, they also required a highly responsive service level from their trusted partner and Sappi responded at every level.  From selecting the right quality and size to the precise delivery of the paperboard to the printers, all in the space of five days, Sappi was flexible and immediately ready to respond. Thanks in no small part to the proactive support provided by all contributors to the creative process, the ‘Care Mask’ was launched at the end of March 2020 and was a resounding success. 5,000 masks were sold out within an hour and were sent on their way to the customers in their exclusive packaging.

• R&D support for textile odor-management according to international testing standards

To ensure responsible use of biocides and international comparability, test methods and test results for antimicrobial treated products must be transparent, useful and comparable. This is precisely why  SANITIZED AG, the specialist for antimicrobial material protection and hygiene function in textiles and polymers, had its in-house Microbiology Laboratory in the SANITIZED TecCenter certified by IAC, the International Antimicrobial Council. This non-profit, U.S.-based institute aims to increase safety for antimicrobial treated products and for consumers. Textile and polymer product manufacturers value the assistance that the in-house SANITIZED TecCenter provides them with developing and optimizing their products. It supervises technical application aspects, and conducts microbiological tests and analytics—all from a single source. SANITIZED provides specific assistance with the textile manufacturer's R&D work, particularly for the demanding challenge of developing the best possible odor-management for textiles. Now the TecCenter has been certified by the IAC and is a designated “International Antimicrobial Council Certified Laboratory.”

Thanks to the IAC Certification, SANITIZED AG now offers innovation expertise according to international standards that are also recognized and valued in the U.S. and Asia.

“In addition to assistance with product development and product optimization from our TecCenter, SANITIZED customers receive certification of the antimicrobial treatment of their products from an independent organization, the IAC,” explains Erich Rohrbach, Head of Microbiology at SANITIZED AG. “This is an important building block for production chain transparency in the textile industry, which is demanded by a growing number of manufacturers and brands that are driven by end customer requirements,” adds Erich Rohrbach. Many SANITIZED customers particularly value the TecCenter for their development work in odor-management for textiles. SANITIZED offers an innovative product portfolio to meet this demand also including non-biocide additives.