From the Sector

The North Face präsentierte mit FUTURELIGHT™ ein neues atmungsaktives, wasserdichtes Material, das das Potential hat, die Welt der technischen Stoffe für immer zu verändern. Das Material wird mit Nanospinning-Technologie auf der Basis nachhaltiger Prozesse hergestellt und ist das technisch höchstentwickeltste atmungsaktive und wasserdichte Material für die äußere Kleidungsschicht. „Bisher waren wasserdichte Materialien in der Regel laut, steif und hatten ein relativ großes Packmaß. Mit der FUTURELIGHT™-Technologie können wir im Prinzip jedes Bekleidungsstück atmungsaktiv, wasserdicht und erstmals auch bequem machen“, sagt Scott Mellin, Global General Manager of Mountain Sports bei The North Face. „Stellen Sie sich vor: wasserdichte Hemden, Pullis und Jeans, die Sie tatsächlich gerne tragen. Wir haben mit Jacken, Zelten und Handschuhen angefangen, aber die Möglichkeiten sind zahlreich.“

Dank neuer Fertigungsprozesse setzt The North Face mit FUTURELIGHT™ auch neue Maßstäbe in der Nachhaltigkeit. Durch diese Weiterentwicklung können dreilagige Kleidungsstücke umweltfreundlich aus Recyclingmaterialien, mit reduziertem Chemikalieneinsatz und in einer sauberen, solarbetriebenen Fabrik hergestellt werden.

Durch das Nanospinning, das in der Herstellung von FUTURELIGHT™ verwendet wird, kann The North Face die Membran eines Kleidungsstücks so luftdurchlässig wie noch nie machen. Denn durch das Verfahren entstehen Öffnungen im Nanometerbereich, welche das Material besonders porös, aber immer noch absolut wasserdicht macht. So wird diese Kleidungsschicht weitaus luftdurchlässiger als bisher möglich.

Zusätzlich können Produktdesigner durch die Nanospinning-Technologie Gewicht, Dehnbarkeit, Atmungsaktivität, Robustheit, Konstruktion (gewebt oder gewirkt) und Struktur an die Anforderungen von Athleten und Kunden anpassen. So kann zum Beispiel für Aktivitäten im aeroben Bereich die Atmungsaktivität erhöht werden oder für extreme Witterungen die Wasserdichtheit. Dieses Maß an Flexibilität und Anpassbarkeit war im Kleidungs-, Ausrüstungs- und Accessoire-Bereich bisher nicht möglich.

• PrimaLoft® Bio™ Performance Fabric – der erste Funktionsstoff aus 100% recycelten, biologisch abbaubaren Fasern

LATHAM, NY - MÜNCHEN: PrimaLoft, Inc., weltweit führendes Unternehmen für innovative Materialtechnologien, hat sein Portfolio an biologisch abbaubaren* Technologien erweitert. Mit der Einführung von PrimaLoft® Bio™ Performance Fabric, dem ersten zu 100% recycelten und biologisch abbaubaren synthetischen Funktionsstoff ergänzt das Unternehmen die kürzlich vorgestellte PrimaLoft® Bio™ Insulation, die ebenfalls die erste Technologie ihrer Art ist. Grundlage beider Innovationen ist eine technisch weiter entwickelte Fasertechnologie, die einen stark beschleunigten biologischen Abbau unter bestimmten Umweltbedingungen ermöglicht und so ein potentiell wichtiger Faktor bei der Problematik von Mikroplastik in den Meeren werden könnte. Sowohl PrimaLoft® Bio™ Performance Fabric als auch PrimaLoft® Bio™ Insulation sollen ab Herbst 2020 im Handel verfügbar sein.

„Seit Beginn der Entwicklung unserer biologisch abbaubaren Materialien waren Funktionsstoffe ein wichtiger Bestandteil für uns. Dank dieses Durchbruchs können Kleidungstücke ab sofort komplett den Weg zurück in die Natur finden“, sagte Mike Joyce, Präsident und CEO von PrimaLoft. „Da wir bei der Leistung keine Abstriche machen, mussten wir sicherstellen, dass unsere biologisch abbaubaren Fasern dem Herstellungsprozess von Hochleistungs-Funktionsstoffen standhalten und gleichzeitig ihre Fähigkeit zum biologischen Abbau behalten.  Diese Entwicklung öffnet uns neue Horizonte und wir wollen damit Maßstäbe setzen, um die Umweltauswirkungen der Textilindustrie erheblich zu verringern.“

PrimaLoft® Bio™-Fasern bestehen zu 100% aus Recyclingfasern, die sich unter bestimmten Gegebenheiten wie sie in einer Mülldeponie oder im Meerwasser vorherrschen, biologisch abbauen. PrimaLoft hat diese Fasern weiterentwickelt, um sie attraktiver für dort natürlich vorkommende Mikroben zu machen. Diese Mikroben verdauen die Fasern schneller und sorgen dafür, dass der Funktionsstoff zersetzt wird und am Ende lediglich die natürlichen Elemente Wasser, Methan, CO2 und Biomasse zurückbleiben. Die neue Technologie wird dabei  helfen, das wachsende Problem von Mikroplastik in den Ozeanen zu verringern – ein bedeutendes Thema für die Textilindustrie und andere Industriezweige. Laut Schätzungen der Ellen Macarthur Foundation landen jährlich rund eine halbe Million Tonnen Mikrofasern beim Waschen von Textilien auf Kunststoffbasis wie Polyester, Nylon oder Acryl im Meer. PrimaLoft® Bio™-Fasern werden nur abgebaut, wenn sie in Kontakt mit natürlich vorkommenden Mikroben auf Mülldeponien oder im Meer kommen. Dadurch bleiben die Fasern während der gesamten Produktlebenszeit des Kleidungsstücks gewohnt dauerhaft strapazierfähig.

Spezifische Testergebnisse zeigen einen biologischen Abbau von 84,1% in 423 Tagen unter ASTM D5511- Bedingungen* (beschleunigte Deponiesimulation) und 55,1% biologischen Abbau in 409 Tagen unter ASTM D6691- Bedingungen** (beschleunigte Meerwassersimulation). „Wir haben Recycling nie als die endgültige Lösung gesehen. Mit PrimaLoft® Bio™ haben wir nicht nur den Code zur biologischen Abbaubarkeit unserer Fasern geknackt, sondern gehen auch den nächsten Schritt in Sachen Nachhaltigkeit“, sagt Joyce. „Mit neuen Fasertechnologien wie dieser versuchen wir unseren negativen Umwelteinfluss so gering wie möglich zu halten. Das ist Teil unserer Selbstverpflichtung, jeden Tag aufs Neue Verantwortung zu übernehmen. “

Bis heute hat PrimaLoft mehr als 90 Millionen Plastikflaschen wiederaufbereitet und daraus Premium- Isolationen hergestellt. Anfang dieses Jahres präsentierte PrimaLoft bereits seine ersten Isolationen aus 100% recyceltem Material. Bis 2020 werden 90% der PrimaLoft-Isolationsprodukte aus mindestens 50% recyceltem Material (PCR = Post Consumer Recycled) bestehen, ohne dabei Einbußen bei der Leistung aufzuweisen.

PrimaLoft plant, mit einem ähnlichen Bekenntnis zu biologisch abbaubaren Technologien in seinem gesamten Produktportfolio, die Branche weiter voranzutreiben. Mehr Informationen zu PrimaLoft Bio gibt es auch hier: http://primaloft.com/primaloftbio

* Standardtestmethode zur Bestimmung des anaeroben biologischen Abbaus von Kunststoffmaterialien unter anaeroben Verdauungsbedingungen mit hohem Feststoffgehalt
** Standardtestmethode zur Bestimmung des aeroben biologischen Abbaus von Kunststoffmaterialien in maritimer Umgebung durch ein definiertes mikrobielles Konsortium oder ein natürliches Meerwasser-Inokulum

The Mechanical Engineering Industry Association (VDMA) has awarded two prizes to graduates of the Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University - the dissertation prize and the creativity prize of the Walter Reiners Foundation of German Textile Machinery 2018. ITA alumnus Dr Benjamin Weise was awarded the dissertation prize for the development of novel fibres for textile charge storage devices. For their work on a guide to 4D product design, Jan Merlin Abram and Aalon Tal (both ITA students) were honoured with the creativity prize. The dissertation prize is endowed with €5,000 whilst the creativity prize contains a one-year scholarship of €250 per month. Peter D. Dornier, President of the Walter Reiners Foundation and Chairman of the Management Board of Lindauer DORNIER, presented the awards on the 18 September 2018 at the 18th Textile Machinery Forum in the Digital Capability Center in Aachen, Germany.

Graphene revolutionizes all-in-one - supercaps, reduction of terahertz radiation and antistatics

In his dissertation "Development of graphene-modified multifilament yarns for the production of textile charge storage devices", laureate Dr Benjamin Weise developed novel fibres made of polyamide and graphene and further processed them into textile surfaces. The newly developed polyamide graphene fibres are featuring a multitude of advantages:

• Due to their high performance in the charge storage area, they are predestined for use in double-layer capacitors, so-called super capacitors, or supercaps in short. Compared to lithium-ion batteries, supercaps offer significantly higher power density and a longer lifetime as no chemical reactions are taking place. towing to the graphene platelets in the filaments, it is now possible for the first time to integrate a charge storage device directly into a textile without having to sew in a rechargeable battery. This new fibre is therefore suitable for prospective use in smart textiles, for instance in a textile defibrillator.
• The new graphene-modified polyamide fibres can attenuate inident terahertz radiation up to 25 % of their original intensity. Terahertz radiation, for example, offers transmission rates of 100 Mbit/sec and is therefore of high interest for high-performance wireless communication. However, the radiation could damage sensible electronics as in aircrafts if this technology will be used widespread. Consequently, the shielding of the radiation is of high importance, e.g. in the form of fibre composite components in the aircraft, which protect the on-board electronics.
• As the fibres are showcasing a dissipative electrical conductivity, personal protective equipment is another prospective field of application.  

The development of a pilot process for graphene-modified fibres and the production of textile demonstrators are novel and disruptive attainments of Dr Weise’s PhD thesis and the reason for the award ceremony to him. Due to its outstanding properties, the European Union is funding research on graphene within the frame of the "Graphene Flagship" with an overall budget of one billion Euro (source: http://graphene-flagship.eu/project/Pages/About-Graphene-Flagship.aspx).

Modular product design of 4D products is now possible in simplified form

How can three-dimensional products change their shape over time and thus become "four-dimensional"? The students Jan Merlin Abram and Aalon Tal provide answers to this question in their project work "Leitfaden zur Auslegung hybrider morphender Textilien am Beispiel eines Scharniers" (Guidelines for the Design of Hybrid Morphing Textiles Using the Example of a Hinge), for which they were awarded the creativity prize. In their work, the students offer a guideline for the development of a four-dimensional textile from the idea to the demonstrator. Four-dimensional textiles, for example, consist of a hybrid material of elastic textile on which three-dimensional structures are printed. The fourth dimension describes the change in shape and/or a property over a defined period of time (= morphing).  This change is caused by external influences such as light and heat.

Every year, the Foundation of the German Textile Machinery awards prizes for the best dissertation, diploma or master's thesis and the creativity prize for the smartest student research project. Further prizes were awarded to Eric Otto, ITM Dresden, and Susanne Fischer, Reutlingen University.

EUROBIKE, the world’s leading trade fair for the cycling industry, will include ROICA™ smart innovations into the race. Cycle retailers, brands and manufacturers will discover ROICA™ premium stretch that provides comfort and movement as it energizes.

ROICA™ will go the distance as they join this year’s EUROBIKE Academy line-up and host an interactive panel focused on sustainability as an added value for the cycling market. Whether an expert or newcomer, the must attend panel titled; What is Smart Innovation in the Biking Market? will be held on Monday, July 9th from 12:00-12:45 in Conference Center East, Room London. Moderated by Giusy Bettoni, CEO, C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle And Sustainable Synergy), a Milan based company generating global strategies and identifying new values essential for today’s knowledgeable conscious consumer. The panel will lead the way, as they share their expertise and discuss what they are doing to push the boundaries of innovation. They will highlight responsible dimensions and processes currently available. The all-star lineup includes:

Uwe Schmidt, Asahi Kasei’s ROICA™, Managing Director introduces cycle enthusiasts, brands, retailers and manufacturers to the world’s first premium sustainable stretch yarn: ROICA™ Eco-Smart and the ROICA™ Feel Good family dedicated to well-being.
 
Laura Gambarini, marketing and communication manager at M.I.T.I. S.p.A.: M.I.T.I. Since 1931, M.I.T.I. develops and creates premium and innovative stretch warp knitted fabrics for all the high performance sports. Cycling brands recognize M.I.T.I. as the market leader for the outstanding features of their innovative fabrics. Green soul is their ultimate creation, the first fully sustainable stretch warp knitted range of fabrics in the world, created with ROICA™ Eco-Smart family for the new generation sustainable performance garments.
 
Sven Koehler, Head of production Maloja Clothing GmbH: Maloja, an outdoor specialty brand with its roots in nature and wellbeing have developed new amazing biking sets constructed of M.I.T.I. SpA fabrics using certified yarns belonging to ROICA™ Eco-Smart family.
 
Sergio Alibrandi, Executive Marketing Director Sitip S.p.A.: SITIP creates high-tech innovative sports fabrics that are made in Italy and optimize the latest technology. Committed to smart innovation, learn how they developed their ground-breaking multi-panel thermal bib tights able to generate heat for riders that want to conquer cold winter training. Made from BeHOT fabric constructed with ROICA™ StretchEnergy™, the next level of well-being providing a new dimension to active performance.  The audience will learn how leading international cycling brand Santini is using BeHOT with ROICA™ on select products to generate additional heat – up to 2 degrees C as the cyclist moves their body, thanks to ground-breaking heat generating technology as certified by CeRism, Outdoor Sport Research Centre at Verona University.
 
Spearheading the premium stretch market, ROICA™ partners’ materials elevate new standards for high-tech performance that can enhance cycling products to compete responsibly. ROICA™ partners excite you as they show a fantastic range of stretch essentials for cycling clothing, gear, and apparel that offer solid performance perks. Most importantly, visit ROICA™ partners at EUROBIKE to learn about their ongoing commitment to responsible innovation and creativity.

The DyStar® Group recently launched a new concept of their resource saving module – Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous.

Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous is a modified pad-dry-thermosol-pad-steam dyeing process for open width PES/CO fabrics. In contrast to the standard PDTPS process, Cadira Reactive/Disperse Continuous does not require a separate reduction clearing process and thus saves more than 40% chemicals, water and energy. This effect is obtained by using a special dye choice of Dianix® XF/XF2 and SF disperse dyes in combination with selected Levafix® and Remazol® reactive dyes and a modified steaming and wash-off process with Sera® auxiliaries.

The Cadira concepts considerably reduce process costs, water, waste and energy consumption and machine utilization. Cadira supports Brands & Retailers and their production partners in their effort to save valuable resources and to reduce the carbon footprint of their textile goods.

The first Cadira module was developed in 2016. Since then DyStar has launched Cadira concepts for various substrates and applications. So far, the following Cadira concepts are available.

Cadira Polyester
Cadira Recycled Polyester
Cadira Vat
Cadira Reactive
Cadira Procion PX
Cadira Wool
Cadira Denim

DyStar will continue their effort to support the textile industry to reduce the environmental footprint.

About DyStar
DyStar® Group is a solution provider, offering customers across the globe a complete range of colorants, auxiliaries and services. The DyStar Group has offices, competence centers, agencies and production plants in over 50 countries to ensure the availability of expertise in all important markets. With a heritage of more than a century of product development and innovation for the textile and leather industry, DyStar has developed into new markets and now in addition serves the paper, plastic and many other specialty chemical industries.

DyStar’s service division assist brands & retailers and their industry partners from their first inspiration throughout the entire supply chain to ensure that they meet stringent quality and ecological specifications, reduce costs and shorten lead times. The service division offers state of the art color communication through CSI, textile and ecology testing through Texanlab, ecology and environmental advice, supply chain auditing and consulting for RSL compliant sustainable processes through Sustainable Textile Solutions programs.

The DyStar econfidence® program provides assurance that provided products comply with legal, voluntary and brand & retailer RSL (Restricted Substance List) requirements. It is an assurance that our products are in compliance with chemical and environmental legislation in each market in which they are sold.
Visit www.DyStar.com for more information.

• Lectra – ESCP Europe ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair round-table event hears panelists emphasize the need for fashion companies to embrace Industry 4.0.

Paris, February 27, 2018 – Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, the French business school ESCP Europe and their joint ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair explored the impact of Industry 4.0 on fashion’s value chain during a recent insightful round table discussion at ESCP Europe’s London campus.
For the participants Robert Diamond, Founder and CEO, Fernbrook Partners; Dan Hartley, Global Head of Digital Commerce, AllSaints; Laëtitia Hugé, Vice-President, Product Marketing, Lectra; Pierre Mercier, Senior Partner and Managing Director, Boston Consulting Group; and Evelthon Vassilou, CEO, Alison Hayes, there was consensus. Industry 4.0 represents unparalleled opportunities to take the fashion industry forward.

From brand to manufacturer, panelists from across the value chain emphasized the necessity for the industry to embrace the alliance between man and machines to leverage massive benefits, from quicker decision-making to cost-reduction.
Exploring the advantages of Industry 4.0 technology, Evelthon Vassilou commented: “Interpreting the data of what is, and isn’t, selling should help to speed up decisions. You can react very quickly across the entire supply chain, and either stop producing something unsuccessful or ramp up production if successful. Data and data analytics is not sufficient, to succeed this also requires a high degree of trust and integration between retailers and suppliers.”

“It’s about using technology to deliver continuous improvement in everyday business,” said Robert Diamond. “People are not good at making a large volume of repeatable decisions with many different data inputs”. Identifying where machines, and where people, bring value is an important part of embracing Industry 4.0. “If the business decision, or the outcome of the resolution tomorrow, is pretty much the same as what happened yesterday, then there is a chance for machine learning to help improve the situation.”
For Pierre Mercier, technology propelled by Industry 4.0 is disrupting former sources of competitive advantage, “forcing companies to rethink how they want to compete in their respective industries, and how to use data to compete differently. The common denominator in the fashion ecosystem is that everyone is facing the opportunity for a step change and need to figure out where to double down and accelerate their transformation.”

“Agility and flexibility are increasingly important for fashion players. Cutting-edge technology is supporting the fashion industry as it steps into the 4.0 era, ensuring businesses have the right solutions in their own ecosystems, to effectively harness the right data to make the right decisions,” stated Laëtitia Hugé.

At UK fashion brand AllSaints, valuable data harnessed from the net promoter score is paramount for their business. “We take customer feedback very seriously and we use it as a framework for our internal roadmap - from a tech and development point of view, through to design and fit, the customer is at the heart of everything we do,” stated Dan Hartley. In addition, he underlined that using technology across communications “will be huge going forward for AllSaints. From supply chain to store teams, we aim to use a cloud-based system that works within our own eco-system, complementing our agile model.”
The round table was moderated by the co-director of Lectra-ESCP Europe ‘Fashion and Technology’ Chair Valérie Moatti.
 

Lectra brings together partnership schools and industry experts to discuss how changing professions
in fashion are impacting training programs

Lectra, the world leader in integrated technology solutions dedicated to industries using fabrics, leather,
technical textiles and composite materials, recently welcomed partners from the world of
education to the company’s Bordeaux-Cestas campus for its eighth education congress. The
event was dedicated to the mega trends shaping the fashion industry and impacting
professions from design to production.

Over fifty representatives from among the most important fashion schools in Germany, Canada, China,
USA, France, Hong Kong, Italy, The Netherlands, Poland, United Kingdom, Switzerland and Sweden, participated
in this biannual meeting between industry experts and teaching professionals.

Fashion professions are evolving as companies make their first steps towards Industry 4.0, adopting 3D
and rationalizing the lifecycle management for their collections thanks to PLM. Lectra’s congress enabled
schools to discuss the developing role of designers and patternmakers, and the new elements to be
integrated into training programs.

Lectra illustrated future changes through presentations on design, patternmaking, 3D prototyping, and PLM.
“It is fundamental to bring innovation experts in the industry together with fashion schools, because
students will drive the evolution of this industry,” stated Pascal Denizart, Managing Director of the Centre
européen des textiles innovants (CETI).

Working with schools to design courses which meet the needs of fashion companies has always been at
the heart of Lectra’s education program. During the event, the company presented collaborative
experiences between partner schools and fashion brands, such as the competitions organised by Lectra
with Missoni, Balenciaga, and Armani in Italy, as well as Peacebird in China and JC Penney in the United
States.

In the United Kingdom, Lectra collaborated with COS (H&M group) and the Arts University Bournemouth
(AUB) for a competition centred on the design of a collection with zero waste.
“The process was totally digital, from design to the creation of a virtual prototype in 3D. Our students learnt
to optimize each stage of the process. By leveraging the use of Kaledo®, Modaris® and Diamino®, the
collaborative work between AUB, COS and Lectra is exactly the type of project that enormously motivates
our students. Live briefs developed with leading fashion brands and Lectra offer excellent opportunities
which directly inform industry currency and student employability,” explained Penny Norman, a lecturer at
AUB.

The event also shone the spotlight on China and its major role in the evolution of the fashion industry.
Li Min, Vice-Dean of the fashion and design faculty at Donghua university in Shanghai spoke of the event,
organized by Lectra, which brought together major Chinese companies, experts, and representatives from
the biggest schools in China.

“Exchanges on the impact of the Made in China 2025 plan on the fashion industry can better prepare
students for tomorrow’s professions, where digital and automation will occupy a far more central position
than today,” testified Li Min.

"The fashion industry is evolving so fast that sharing insights and best practices with experts and other
fashion schools has become vital to ensure we offer the best learning experience and technology tools to
our students", said Dr. Trevor J. Little, Professor of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management in
the College of Textiles at NC State University.

“Lectra’s eighth education congress confirms the company’s commitment to our partner schools. We
shared our analysis of the market, the digitalization of the eco-system, and how Industry 4.0 principles can
be applied to the fashion industry. We also discussed mass customization and the role of PLM. While these
are key subjects for our customers, many schools are only now approaching them. We are preparing
tomorrow, today: Lectra is supporting our customers, and schools to play an essential role,” concludes
Céline Choussy Bedouet, Chief Marketing and Communications Officer, Lectra.