From the Sector

Archroma launched the ONE WAY+ to help mills and brands to improve their productivity and efficiency, and to reduce their environmental impact.

The program is a three-phase process of establishing the baseline, process design and implementation, and ongoing improvement. Tailor-made for selected customers, it draws on the expertise of a curated team of Archroma processing experts and leverages specialist tools and technologies, including Archroma’s ONE WAY Impact Calculator combined with Sustainability Improvement Program.

Mills that adopt Super Systems+ through the ONE WAY+ process can expect enhanced productivity and reduced resource utilization and utilities costs; in addition, also cleaner chemistry and the co-development of new aesthetics and functionalities. Participation in the ONE WAY+ process also indicates to brand partners that mills are committed to remaining sustainable by adopting global best practices and using products that are compliant with current and future regulatory requirements.

Brands that work with Archroma under ONE WAY+ will be supported with a roadmap to their sustainability targets. They will gain a better understanding of the sustainability status of their current suppliers and how this impacts their supply chain. Ultimately, the aim is to optimize efficiencies in the supply chain and connect with suppliers that are able to meet target sustainability commitments.

From base-line audit to results review, ONE WAY+ is usually carried out over 16 weeks, with a team of two or three Archroma experts working closely with the customer’s technical teams. Results achieved so far include the following:

• A textile mill in China, serving a top international sports and athleisure brand, cut its processing time by 30% while reducing water and steam requirements by 40% and achieving a 10% RFT improvement; and
• A textile mill in Peru, serving a leading American luxury fashion house, reduced water and steam usage by 20% while slashing processing time by 30%.
• A textile mill in Argentina, serving casual wear and performance apparel brands, reduced water consumption by 40% and steam usage by 20%
• A textile mill in India, serving some of the world’s largest homewares brands, improved productivity by 15% while achieving 95% right first time (RFT) processing and 0.5% quality rejection.

Green Theme Technologies, suppliers of the EMPEL® water-free and PFAS-free textile finishing platform, continues a trajectory of exponential growth by partnering with Korean-based global textile innovator Hwasung International. Hwasung is the first Korean mill to offer the EMPEL® high performance technology to global footwear brands and regional Korean mill customers.
      
Known globally for providing high performance textiles that incorporate functional yarns such as Dyneema, Kevlar and Cordura, Hwasung will now broaden their high performance and sustainable offerings by scaling EMPEL into their global supply chain.
      
Green Theme’s EMPEL® platform can be applied successfully to a wide range of synthetic knit, woven, non-woven and novel fabrics that are traditionally hard to treat. The diverse list of EMPEL® markets include: Outdoor, High Fashion, Footwear, Automotive, Furniture, Workwear, Athleisure Wear and Military. Because no water is used during the treatment application, EMPEL® can remove pollution and waste from any textile manufacturing process.

Building on a renewed five-year strategy, Fashion for Good selects ten new innovators for its 2024 programme to receive tailored support validating their technologies. This cohort represents an increased focus on novel footwear material and recycling technologies, man-made cellulosics, and nylon recycling.

The 2024 Innovation Programme provides support based on the development stage and ambitions of each innovator, matching them with relevant industry partners to drive technology and impact technology and impact validation as well as investing activities.

The selected innovators joining the 2024 Innovation Programme are:

• Algreen Ltd: Algreen co-develops alternative materials from algae and biobased sources that can replace fossil-based products such as PU.
• Balena: Balena creates biodegradable partly biobased polymers for footwear outsoles.
• Epoch Biodesign: Epoch Biodesign is an enzymatic recycler of PA66 and PA6 textile waste.
• Fibre52: Fibre52 is a bio-based solution replacing traditional bleach prepared-for-dyeing and dye processes.
• Gencrest BioProducts Pvt Ltd: Gencrest works with various agri-residues to convert them into textile-grade fibres using their enzymatic technology.
• HeiQ AeoniQ: HeiQ AeoniQ™ is a continuous cellulose filament yarn with enhanced tensile properties.
• Nanollose - Nullabor: Nullarbor™Lyocell is developed from microbial cellulose which is converted into pulp pulp to produce a lyocell fibre with their partner Birla Cellulose.  
• REGENELEY:  REGENELEY pioneers advanced shoe sole recycling technologies by separating and recycling EVA, TPU, and rubber components found in footwear.
• Samsara Eco: Samsara Eco is an enzymatic recycler of PA66 and PET textile waste.
• SEFF: SEFF Fibre produces cottonised fibres and blends of hemp fabrics utilising a patented HVPED process.

Lightweight design is a key enabler for addressing the energy transition and sustainable economy. Following the liquidation of the state agency Leichtbau BW GmbH, a consortium consisting of the Allianz Faserbasierter Werkstoffe Baden-Württtemberg (AFBW), the Leichtbauzentrum Baden-Württemberg (LBZ e.V. -BW) and Composites United Baden-Württemberg (CU BW) now represents the interests of the lightweight construction community in the State.

The Lightweight Design Agency for Baden-Württemberg is set up for this purpose on behalf of and with the support of the State. The Lightweight Construction Alliance BW is the central point of contact for all players in the field of lightweight construction in the State and acts in their interests at national and international level. Professor Markus Milwich from the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) represents the agency.

The use of lightweight materials in combination with new production technologies will significantly reduce energy consumption in transportation, the manufacturing industry and the construction sector. Resources can be saved through the use of new materials. As a cross-functional technology, lightweight construction covers entire value chain from production and use to recycling and reuse.

The aim of the state government is to establish Baden-Württemberg as a leading provider of innovative lightweight construction technologies in order to strengthen the local economy and secure high-quality jobs.

Among others, the "Lightweight Construction Alliance Baden-Württemberg" will continue the nationally renowned "Lightweight Construction Day", which acts as an important source of inspiration for a wide range of lightweight construction topics among business and scientific community.

Professor Milwich, an expert with many years of experience and an excellent network beyond the State's borders, has been recruited for this task. In his role, Milwich also represents the state of Baden-Württemberg on the Strategy Advisory Board of the Lightweight Construction Initiative of the Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Climate Action, which supports the cross functional-technology and efficient transfer of knowledge between the various nationwide players in lightweight construction and serves as a central point of contact for entrepreneurs nationwide for all relevant questions.

From 2005 to 2020, Professor Milwich headed the Composite Technology research at the DITF, which was integrated into the Competence Center Polymers and Fiber Composites in 2020. He is also an honorary professor at Reutlingen University, where he teaches hybrid materials and composites. "Lightweight design is an essential aspect for sustainability, environmental and resource conservation. I always showcase this in research and teaching and now also as a representative of the lightweight construction community in Baden-Württemberg," emphasizes Professor Milwich.

CARBIOS and Landbell Group, a global operator of more than 40 producer responsibility organizations (PROs) and a provider of closed-loop recycling solutions, announce the signing of a non-binding Memorandum of Understanding for the sourcing, preparation and recycling of post-consumer PET waste using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its first commercial plant in Longlaville from 2026.  

The partnership will leverage Landbell Group’s expertise and network in the sourcing of PET packaging and textile waste which will be prepared for biorecycling. Thanks to CARBIOS’ highly selective enzyme, less sorting and washing is required compared to current recycling technologies, offering future savings in energy and water use. From 2026, Landbell Group will supply CARBIOS with 15 kt/year of PET flakes, ensuring a steady supply chain for sustainable PET production. These flakes will serve as essential feedstock for CARBIOS’ production of food-grade PTA and MEG, further re-polymerized into PET.

Through the partnership with Landbell Group in Germany, the supply of multilayer trays through the CITEO tender in France  and the MoU with Indorama Ventures, CARBIOS will have sourced over 70% of its feedstock required for the 50kt/year capacity when its first commercial plant in Longlaville, France, will operate at full capacity. Close to the borders with Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg, the plant’s location is strategic for nearby waste supplies.

Through this partnership with CARBIOS, Landbell Group will ensure that the problematic PET fractions such as multilayered, colored and opaque trays from packaging waste and polyester textile waste are redirected towards recycling. In this way, Landbell Group strengthens its commitment to the development of recycling solutions to enable a circular economy.

Archroma introduced Super Systems+. These end-to-end systems combine fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects to help textile and apparel brands, retailers and mills positively impact their economic and environmental sustainability.

Archroma’s Super Systems+ suite encompass wet processing solutions that deliver measurable environmental impact; durable colors and functional effects that add value and longevity to the end product; and technologies that eliminate harmful or regulated substances. It will allow brands and mills to achieve their desired level of sustainability through measurable resource savings and cleaner chemistries.

Products and technologies that are be used in Super Systems+ solutions include: AVITERA® SE for resource savings, an improved cost-to-performance ratio for cotton and its blends and chlorine fastness; DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK for shade and wash-down effects on black denim and an overall impact reduction of 57%*; aniline-free** DENISOL® PURE INDIGO 30 LIQ for authentic blue denim; ERIOPON® E3-SAVE all-in-one auxiliary for resource-intensive polyester dyeing that reduces processing time and conserves water and energy; and PHOBOTEX® NTR-50 LIQ for bio-based, PFAS-free, formaldehyde-free and crosslinker-free durable water repellence.

*As determined by Ecoterrae, a leading Spain-based sustainability consulting firm, through a Life Cycle Analysis (UNE-EN ISO 14044:2006) at the synthesis stage, using the ReCiPe 2016 Impact calculation methodology.
**Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods.

More than 82 companies, businesses and social organizations – including AkzoNobel – are involved in a major Dutch research program focused on developing new technologies that will help solve some of today’s societal challenges.
 
Seven broad consortia have been established as part of the government-funded “Perspectief” program, with AkzoNobel set to play a leading role in the SusInkCoat project, which will explore how to make inks and coatings more sustainable.

The company will work together with private partners and other societal stakeholders to develop new materials, processes and applications to improve the durability, functionality and recyclability of coatings, thin films and inks. The program, which will run for the next five years, is backed by the Ministry of Economic Affairs and Climate Policy and the Dutch Research Council (NWO).

“Our discussions about collaborating with our SusInkCoat partners have been very positive,” says AkzoNobel’s R&D Director of Scientific Academic Programs, André van Linden, who is also the co-lead of SusInkCoat. “We’re all facing the same societal challenges – how to become more circular – and we’re looking for the same solutions in different application areas. But we’ve never done that together for this specific research topic, so we need an ecosystem to help us solve these challenges.
 
Van Linden adds that the program – one of many R&D projects the company is involved with – will also support AkzoNobel’s ambition to achieve 50% less carbon emissions in its own operations – and across the value chain – by 2030.
 
 “We want to make the recyclability of materials - such as furniture, building materials and steel constructions - easier by introducing functionalities like self-healing, higher durability and triggered release,” he continues. “The more you can leave the materials in their original state, the more sustainably you can operate.”

AkzoNobel will be collaborating with Canon, Evonik, GFB, PTG and RUG Ventures, who together possess extensive knowledge of market demands, supply chains and production processes. All the SusInkCoat partners will also work with academic researchers at several Dutch universities in an effort to identify promising developments that can be commercialized, used for education purposes or for outreach to the public.

Research being conducted by the other six consortia includes investigating methods to make tastier plant-based food; flat optics for more sustainable hi-tech equipment; and cheaper and more accessible medical imaging technology.

The Fashion for Good museum in Amsterdam marks its 6 year journey with a special fashion exhibition focused on circularity, called What Goes Around Comes Around. Honing in on how circularity plays out in different circles of influence, the exhibition showcases inspirational displays that make tangible what a circular fashion industry will look like.

What Goes Around Comes Around pays homage to the extraordinary work of pioneering artists, innovators and designers working to shift the fashion industry with new solutions. The exhibition opens January 27, 2024 and will be open to the public for 5 months. It is the grand finale, as the Museum is closing its doors. As such it will be the Museum’s final call to collective action, which the fashion industry still so highly needs.

“We are highlighting three areas in What Goes Around Comes Around", explains curator Sophie Jager-van Duren at the Fashion for Good Museum. “First: new work by local artists Atelier Reservé and The Patchwork Family, design collectives working towards circularity, demonstrating what is happening right now. We are also showing looks from established designers BOTTER, Ronald van der Kemp and Marga Weimans, Yuima Nakazato and Nicole McLaughlin. Second, the community, with an installation for visitors to participate in, planting the seed that we need each other to change the fashion system. Lastly, the industry - honing in on examples of innovations and technologies. We invited designers to create new work with circular materials including Living Ink, MIRUM, Altmat and Biophilica.”

Today’s fashion industry is caught in a vicious cycle of ‘take-make-waste’ and this system has a growing negative impact on people and the planet. For instance, in Europe, the average consumer is responsible for 15 kilos of textile waste per year and these numbers are increasing. To address this, we need action from individuals, the industry and society alike to go from a linear take-make-waste model into one that is circular by design.

The Fashion for Good Museum is inviting anybody to come visit its final exhibition and learn from concrete examples, to understand the current state of the fashion industry, gain the tools for taking individual or collective action and be inspired by circular fashion available today.

Designing for circularity means designing without creating waste or pollution, as all materials are continually reused instead of discarded. A circular system is restorative and regenerative and reduces pressure on natural resources. The ultimate goal of the exhibition is to put circularity into practice, help people envision a circular economy based on community practices and empower visitors to take collective action, starting in the museum but extending to their homes and daily lives.

Through the exhibition and its public programme, which consists of interactive workshops and educational events, the museum functions as a community space where visitors are invited to learn, gain new perspectives and are exposed to inspiring examples, building the skills and knowledge to create positive change. The upcoming few months there are multiple events, educational toolkits and other opportunities to join us, all open for the public, keep an eye out on our website and social media channels for the latest updates.

The exhibition is open for the public from Saturday 27th of January until June 5th 2024, marking World Environment Day on June 5th as the final closing day of the museum.

Fashion for Good's Sorting for Circularity framework expands to address the challenge of ensuring rewearable textiles remain in use as opposed to finding their way into global waste streams or landfills. This 18-month project tests automated sorting technologies using artificial intelligence and machine learning to optimise the sorting of rewearable garments and enable greater circularity.

This project will test automated sorting technologies using machine learning and artificial intelligence (AI) to collect product information — such as colour, style, garment type, and quality. This will enable sorters and brands to make better decisions and sort efficiently based on product data and criteria from local, European, and export resale market requirements, thus optimising the flow of textiles to achieve their highest value potential.

To ensure accuracy and representation in capturing data on the flow of textiles within the EU and export markets, this project will focus on specific geographical regions: Lithuania (Nordic/Baltic), the Netherlands (Western), Poland (Central-Eastern), and Spain (Southern Europe).

The findings will be shared in a report with a supporting business case and implementation roadmap to inform investment decisions in infrastructure, Circular Business Models (CBM) and repair centres.

The Rewear Project builds on Fashion for Good’s Sorting for Circularity framework initiated in 2021 and subsequently launched in Europe, India and the United States harmonising the collection, sorting and recycling industries in order to advance textile-to-textile recycling technologies and the resale industry.

It is funded by brand partners adidas, BESTSELLER, Bonprix, C&A, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co., Otto Group, PVH Corp., and Zalando. Circle Economy Foundation leads the creation and implementation of the methodology, with support from Consumption Research Norway, Oslo Metropolitan University and Revaluate.

The kick-off meeting for the "Trends and Design Factors for Hydrogen Pressure Vessels" project, recently held at AZL Aachen GmbH, was a successful event, bringing together more than 37 experts in the field of composite technologies. This event laid a solid foundation for the Joint Partner Project, which currently comprises a consortium of 20 renowned companies from across the composite pressure vessel value chain: Ascend Performance Materials, C evotec GmbH, Chongqing Polycomp International Corp. (CPIC), Conbility GmbH, Elkamet Kunststofftechnik GmbH, F.A. Kümpers GmbH & Co. KG, f loteks plastik sanayi ticaret a.s., Formosa Plastics Corporation, Heraeus Noblelight GmbH, Huntsman Advanced Materials, Kaneka Belgium NV, Laserline GmbH, Mitsui Chemicals Europe GmbH, Plastik Omnium, Rassini Europe GmbH, Robert Bosch GmbH, Swancor Holding Co. Ltd. Ltd., TECNALIA, Toyota Motor Europe NV/SA, Tünkers do Brasil Ltda.

The project follows AZL´s well proven approach of a Joint Partner Project, aiming to provide technology and market insights as well as benchmarking of different material and production setups in combination with connecting experts along the value chain.

The kick-off meeting not only served as a platform to foster new contacts and get informed about the expertise and interests of the consortium members in the field of hydrogen pressure vessels, but also laid the groundwork for steering the focus of the upc oming project's ambitious phases. As a basis for the interactive discussion session, AZL outlined the background, motivation and detailed work plan. The central issues of the dialogue were the primary objectives, the most pressing challenges, the contribut ion to competitiveness, and
the priorities that would best meet the expectations of the project partners.

Discussions covered regulatory issues, the evolving value chain and the supply and properties of key materials such as carbon and glass fibres and resins. The consortium defined investigations into different manufacturing technologies, assessing their matu rity and potential benefits. Design layouts, including liners, boss designs and winding patterns, were thoroughly considered, taking into account their implications for mobile and stationary storage. The group is also interested in cost effective testing m ethods and certification processes, as well as the prospects for recycling into continuous fibres and the use of sustainable materials. Insight was requested into future demand for hydrogen tanks, OEM needs and strategies, and technological developments to produce more economical tanks.

The meeting highlighted the importance of CAE designs for fibre patterns, software suitability and the application dependent use of thermoset and thermoplastic designs.

The first report meeting will also set the stage of the next project phase, which will be the creation of reference designs by AZL's engineering team. These designs will cover a range of pressure vessel configurations using a variety of materials and production concepts. The aim is to develop models that not only re flect current technological capabilities, but also provide deep insight into the cost analysis of different production technologies, their CO₂ footprint, recycling aspects and scalability.

AZL's project remains open to additional participants. Companies interested in joining this initiative are invited to contact Philipp Fröhlig.