From the Sector

Genomatica (Geno) alongside longtime collaborator Aquafil [ECNL:IM] successfully completed the first demonstration scale production runs for plant-based nylon-6. The material is intended to reshape the $22B nylon industry, enabling brands to meet demand from consumers for sustainable everyday materials from apparel to automotive parts to carpets. Geno and Aquafil have produced the first several tons of plant-based nylon-6 building block caprolactam, have converted it to nylon-6 polymer, and are now in the process of transforming it for evaluation in nylon applications such as yarns for textile and carpet and engineering plastics as part of pre-commercial quantities from demonstration production taking place in Europe.

The companies have been collaborating to first produce pilot-scale quantities of plant-based nylon-6 and have now advanced to produce pre-commercial quantities at demonstration scale which will help determine the final design of future commercial plants. The material will go to leading global brands and their value chain partners who are eager to explore and develop renewable products, create showcase goods and test feedback with customers.

Plant-based nylon-6 is Geno’s third major product line on a path to commercialization. The company has executed high impact deals with a range of brands to accelerate the global commercialization of sustainable materials, with the potential to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 100 million tons in upcoming years. Recent milestones advancing the sustainable materials transition include: a collaboration with lululemon (NASDAQ: LULU) to bring plant-based materials into lululemon’s products, a production milestone with partner Covestro (OTCMKTS: COVTY) for plant-based HMD used in sustainable coatings, and a partnership with Asahi Kasei (OTCMKTS: AHKSY) and a newly formed venture with Unilever (NASDAQ: UL) to commercialize and scale plant-based alternatives to feedstocks like palm oil or fossil fuels, to make key ingredients used in everyday cleaning and personal care products.

The new Swedish luxury womenswear brand presented its first couture runway show, ‘Midnight in the Persian Garden’, in the Salle des Textiles of Paris’ Musée des Arts et Métiers on Thursday, July 7th at 10.30am CET.

As earthly manifestations of an imaginary paradise, where architecture and horticulture were brought together into meticulous perfection, the Persian garden was the point of inspiration for ArdAzAei’s debut couture collection.
A poetic ode to the transcendent beauty of nature, ‘Midnight in the Persian Garden’ honours the incredibly complex systems of engineering required to create such sublime spaces through couture’s intricate techniques of smocking, pleating, embroidery, and appliqué.
 
An evening wear collection of red-carpet gowns and cocktail dresses, tailoring, jewellery and accessories, the collection sees a recurring reference to the Persian Rose and the Parrot Tulip, with the flowers informing silhouettes, three-dimensional sculptural forms, and elaborately embroidered jacquard.
 
Sharp tailoring in the form of contemporary women’s suits see sleek jackets and flared pants with hypnotic floral patterning evoking the undulating chaos of nature’s rhythms.
 
Another key theme running throughout the collection is the dynamic between mathematic forms of composition—a key element of Persian garden architecture—and the craft of the handmade, evident in crystal sequins custom-cut to the lines of the ArdAzAei logo, designed by M/M (Paris), which are then hand-embroidered to create organic forms.
 
The dynamic is also evident in an evening dress which sees 60 metres of fabric pleated and cut into geometric shapes appliqued to its top, while 100 hand-painted pleated fans go into the construction of its flared skirt.

In order to realise such intricate forms of construction, the collection is made in France in collaboration with highly skilled couture artisans focused on upholding the highest craftsmanship and material standards. The show venue, the ‘Salle des Textiles’ at the Musée des Arts et Métiers, pays homage to the country’s rare artisanal expertise.

“I have been searching for the long-lasting beauty and respect for nature that you’ll find in the Persian garden, some of which date back to as early as 4,000 BC,” says Bahareh Ardakani, ArdAzAei’s founder and creative director.
 
“This is reflected in our endeavours to certify part of our collection to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), and why this collection is made in France with the country’s leading couture artisans. Every detail is precious, and we want to express the feeling of walking through a Persian garden in the midnight to the smallest of details.”
 
With ateliers in Paris and Stockholm, ArdAzAei is where Persian heritage, Swedish modernism and French savoir-faire collide.

As a luxury womenswear brand engaged in the search for the sublime, ArdAzAei eschews trend-based consumption to instead offer made-to-measure couture, and one prêt-à-porter collection of formalwear per year, released in drops according to the seasons on the digital flagship ArdAzAei.com
 
ArdAzAei focuses on working with textile suppliers that can reveal the details of the origins and processes behind its products, tracing each fabric right through the supply chain of raw materials, yarn spinners, weavers, print and dying techniques.

Catering to the acoustic requirements of electric vehicles, Autoneum has extended its concepts for noise-reducing engine encapsulations to new applications related to electric drives. Hybrid-Acoustics PET and the foam-based alternatives Hybrid-Acoustics FLEX and Fit FLEX ensure optimum noise protection in e-cars and thus improve driving comfort. All three technologies are characterized by a high acoustic performance tailored to specific customer needs and zero waste production.

Disturbing noises such as the high-frequency sounds of e-motors and other electric devices or the whining noise of the gearbox are posing new acoustic challenges for vehicle manufacturers worldwide. Anticipating the increasing demand for sound-reducing components in both the front and the rear of e-cars early on, Autoneum has expanded its technologies for noise protection in the engine bay to new tailor-made applications for electric vehicles.

With the fibrous technology Hybrid-Acoustics PET and the two foam alternatives Hybrid-Acoustics FLEX and Fit FLEX, the Company offers three standardized technologies that reduce noise directly at the source, thereby improving driver comfort. All three technologies are produced waste-free and their adaptive capacity to different sizes and shapes allows for a broad spectrum of uses in electric vehicles: from e-motor encapsulations to the reduction of noise and vibration of inverters, gearbox, pumps and compressors. By offering both fibrous and foam-based variants, Autoneum is able to flexibly cater to individual customer needs and preferences with regard to material, acoustic concept, sustainability and costs.

In terms of sustainable noise protection in the engine bay, Autoneum’s patented innovation Hybrid-
Acoustics PET sets the tone: it is made of 100 percent PET with up to 50 percent recycled fibers; cut-offs in production are reclaimed, processed and reused and the material can be fully recycled at the end of product life. The unique textile technology, which is part of the Company’s sustainability label Autoneum Pure, is particularly suited to attenuating high-frequency sounds of the electric drive unit and offers the optimum balance of absorption and insulation. Moreover, components made of Hybrid-Acoustics PET are up to 40 percent lighter compared to standard insulators.

To accommodate the differing preferences of vehicle manufacturers, Autoneum has complemented its lightweight textile technology with two foam-based alternatives. Since the foam is injected in both technologies, no waste is generated during production either. Hybrid-Acoustics FLEX is based on the same acoustic concept as Hybrid-Acoustics PET, but the decoupler is made of foam instead of felt. Autoneum’s Fit FLEX, on the other hand, combines the foam decoupler with an injection molded heavy layer. Thanks to the high geometrical adaptability of foam to even complex shapes, both technologies offer outstanding acoustic performance in the insulation of e-motors and other noise sources in electric vehicles. Furthermore, the absorbing or insulating acoustic quality of the foam can be flexibly tuned to specific customer needs.

POWERFIL, a business unit of recycling machine manufacturer EREMA GmbH, presents its 2/406 laserfilter.

"For applications with a focus on melt quality and filtration fineness, this increase in screen area ensures lower pressure and temperature at the same throughput rate, allowing even finer screens to be used for even better results in quality-intensive plastics applications," explains Robert Obermayr, Head of Business Unit POWERFIL, EREMA GmbH. If the throughput capacity of the recycling plant needs to be increased, a significantly higher rate of plastic melt can be filtered while maintaining the other parameters thanks to the larger surface area of the screen. Up to 9,000 kilogrammes of melt can be filtered per hour with the Quattro version of the new LF 406 laserfilter.

"Plastic recycling has become a must-have, even for input streams with higher levels of contamination. Efficient filtration systems are therefore indispensable for achieving the specified melt quality using existing extrusion systems," says Obermayr. That is why POWERFIL also offers the proven EREMA melt filters as individual components for existing EREMA machines and third-party extrusion systems. The product range includes the SW RTF partial area backflush system and the laserfilter. The range is aimed at manufacturers as well as recyclers, because the high-performance filters can be used to process post consumer plastics as well as post industrial films with paper labels and clean PET material. Both types of filter are particularly easy to integrate into an existing recycling plant and both are available in numerous sizes and variations. Whether the customer uses the robust backflush filter or the continuous high-performance laserfilter depends on the throughput and level of contamination of the material. The Laserfilter is ideal for heavy contamination. It handles impurity levels up to 5 percent and filtration as fine as 70 μm while continuously cleaning the screen with a scraper.

POWERFIL will also present the new 2/406 laserfilter and the full range of filters at the K 2022 trade fair stand for the EREMA Group.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is endorsing further sustainable products with its ECO-CHECK label introduced last year. These products comply with various environmental criteria. With immediate effect, five more solutions bear the label making the company’s commitment to sustainability visible.

Leather goods
The newly-endorsed ECO-CHECK products include one Evolon® microfilament textile application. This is a reinforcement material for leather goods that is manufactured with no solvent and no binder. It contains up to 80 percent recycled PET and is suitable for a broad range of applications. The material is produced at Freudenberg’s facility in Colmar, France, where the manufacturing process is highly sustainable: it is certified to STeP by OEKO-TEX® and fully complies with the DETOX TO ZERO by OEKO-TEX® criteria.

Healthcare applications
In the field of healthcare, the bio-based M 1714 wound pad with superior absorption for more challenging wounds has now been endorsed with the ECO-CHECK label. The dressing consists of a mix of bio-based fibers derived from natural sources and exhibits a smooth wound contact layer. The product has been evaluated for industrial compostability and conforms to ISO 13432.

Architectural applications
The sustainable TF 400 Eco F mesh fabric for textile architecture from Mehler Texnologies® now also bears the ECO-CHECK label. Its yarn is made of 100% recycled PET bottles and its characteristics are very similar to those of conventional mesh fabrics. In 2021, it was awarded first place by the Architectural Membrane Association (AMA) in the “product” category in recognition of its properties.

Shoes
In the shoe industry, the binder-free strobel insoles have been endorsed as particularly sustainable. They contain a high percentage of recycled green bottle flakes. Moreover, the insoles themselves are fully recyclable.

Filtration applications
The two layered, needle-punched nonwoven filter medium that has just been endorsed with the ECO-CHECK label has impressive sustainability characteristics. Made entirely of polyester, more than half the fibers consist of recycled material.

Trützschler Man-Made Fibers introduces OPTIMA for IDY and expands the range of the OPTIMA extrusion systems by the industrial yarn (IDY) sector. In addition to OPTIMA for carpet yarns (MO40-C, MO40-E and TO40), variants for manufacturing (semi-)industrial multifilament yarns are now joining the line.

Since 2012, Trützschler has been developing and building high-performance extrusion lines for carpet yarns (BCF - Bulk Continuous Filament) and industrial/technical yarns made of polyester, polyamide and polypropylene. The market launch of the OPTIMA concept for BCF took place in 2019 and has established itself in the markets since then. OPTIMA was designed as a modular platform and now also includes solutions in the IDY (InDustrial Yarn) sector.

OPTIMA systems for industrial yarn (TEC-O40 and TEC-O80) impress with flexibility application and end product diversity. Both concepts offer a wide range of design options and can be tailored precisely to meet end product and the throughput requirements.

OPTIMA enables the production of high-tenacity yarns for shoelaces, ropes and nets as well as low-shrinkage qualities for tire cords, truck tarpaulins and airbags. As the lines are modular, they can be quickly adapted to new market developments and end products.

Carbios announces the appointment of two new members to its Executive Committee: Lionel Arras, Industrial Development Director, and Mathieu Berthoud, Sourcing and Public Affairs Director.

Lionel Arras joined Carbios’ teams in 2021 to support the industrial growth of PET enzymatic recycling technology as Industrial Development Director. He was appointed to the Company’s Executive Committee on May 2. An engineer who graduated from ENSIC Nancy and holds an MBA from the Lyon School of Management, Lionel Arras has more than 25 years of experience in the field of process engineering and the chemical industry.
At Carbios, he now heads a team of around 50 people mobilized around three major divisions:
- the industrial demonstration plant, inaugurated last September in Clermont-Ferrand,
- technological development,
- the first Reference Unit project, installed on the Indorama Ventures site in Longlaville, Meurthe-et-Moselle, France.

Lionel Arras, Carbios’ Industrial Development Director: “After the successful start-up of our industrial demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, we are continuing our scale-up with the construction of the first enzymatic recycling plant in the world in Longlaville, France. Its launch, scheduled for early 2025, will enable the processing of 50,000 tons of post-consumer PET waste or the equivalent of 2 billion bottles. It is a great source of pride for me to be able to support Carbios in this strategic development phase.”

Mathieu Berthoud will join Carbios as Sourcing and Public Affairs Director on June 1, 2022. With more than 30 years of experience, including 10 years at Rhodia (now Solvay) and more than 20 years at Suez, in various commercial development or subsidiary management positions, he was most recently Technical and Performance Director for the Group’s recycling and recovery activities. A university-trained scientist, he also holds an MBA from HEC Paris. At Carbios, he will be responsible for securing the supply of PET waste for the future reference plant in Longlaville and the other industrial sites that will follow. He will also manage the Company’s public affairs.

The EREMA Group, which comprises EREMA Group GmbH and its subsidiaries EREMA, PURE LOOP, UMAC, 3S, KEYCYCLE and PLASMAC, closed the 2021/22 financial year with a 17 percent increase in revenue. Consolidated Group revenue amounted to EUR 295 million, and the number of employees increased to over 840. The EREMA Group remains on course for continued growth.

A closer look at the post consumer segment clearly shows a trend towards larger plants, both for PET recycling and for processing polyolefins. For example, the first VACUREMA® Basic 2628 T machine with an annual capacity of up to 40,000 tonnes was recently commissioned at a customer's site in Brazil. This plant features a ten-meter-long special geometry screw with a diameter of 280 millimetres and a weight of 3.5 tonnes. The screw was developed and manufactured by 3S, a subsidiary of EREMA GmbH.

Demand for previously-owned machines at UMAC also remained high during the past financial year. In addition to the general trend towards plastics recycling, the decisive factor here is that customers are more frequently opting for previously-owned systems available at short notice due to the tense situation on the procurement markets. At the same time, businesses that have so far had little contact with recycling are also becoming increasingly interested in this topic. Their need for feasibility studies, consulting and engineering services, project management and turnkey projects are now also very successfully catered for by KEYCYCLE, an EREMA Group company. KEYCYCLE has also acquired from Cadel Deinking the patent, technology and distribution rights for an innovative ink removal technology, which is now being further developed using the know-how of the EREMA Group and shaped into a product that meets industrial standards.

The initiative launched four years ago to modernise and expand existing EREMA Group sites was continued during the past financial year with the expansion and construction of a dedicated machine demonstration centre for PLASMAC in Milan. Equipped with additional production floor space and new and enlarged customer centres, all companies within the group are now well prepared to meet rising demand, and with the new research and development centre under construction in Ansfelden, the framework for further outstanding plastics recycling milestones from EREMA is currently being optimised.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) reported a strong 1Q22 result, building on its record FY 2021 performance as the pandemic continued to retreat, driving demand across the company’s global integrated portfolio.

IVL achieved 1Q22 Core EBITDA of US$650 million, up 41% QoQ and 77% YoY, and a 4% increase in production volumes to 3.80 MMT. All three of IVL’s business segments grew as the company’s leading global position benefited overall in an environment of higher crude oil prices, increased ocean freight rates and a strengthening US dollar, led by resurging consumer demand and global mobility.

IVL’s Integrated Oxides and Derivatives (IOD) business benefits from a high crude oil price environment, as its shale gas advantage supports MTBE and MEG margins. As ocean freight rates increase, IVL’s PET and Fibers segments gain due to increased import parity pricing in Western markets, where about two thirds of its portfolio is situated. Management’s agile response to hedging and levying surcharges has helped to partially recuperate the surge in energy and utility costs in Europe as a consequence of the Russia-Ukraine conflict.

The re-opening of economies bodes well for demand across IVL’s portfolio. However, China’s ongoing pandemic lockdowns impacted downstream polyester demand resulting in weakened MEG spreads. IVL’s businesses trade in US dollars and a strengthening dollar has positive impact, reducing conversion costs in emerging economies where IVL has a strong local presence.

Combined PET segment reported Core EBITDA of US$435 million, up 63% QoQ and 67% YoY supported by the reset of PTA/PET contracts at the end of 2021. IVL expects the tight supply-demand environment to continue through 2022, boosted by the upcoming peak summer season.

IOD segment achieved Core EBITDA of US$126 million, up 3% QoQ and 258% YoY as MTBE margins benefited from higher crude oil prices, demand remains strong for downstream products, and as the commissioning of the Lake Charles cracker contributes to earnings in 2022. The integration of the Oxiteno acquisition, completed in April, will bring additional upside to IOD from 2Q22.

Fibers segment delivered Core EBITDA of US$85 million, an increase of 4% QoQ and 17% YoY. Demand across the three Fibers verticals is stable with domestic sales yielding better profitability, while higher freight rates weighed on margins on export volumes from Thailand, Indonesia and India, and increased energy and utility costs impacted European operations.

1Q22 Performance Highlights

• Consolidated Revenue of US$4,444M, an increase of 12% QoQ and 37% YoY
• Record Reported EBITDA of US$784M, a YoY growth of 63%, and Core EBITDA of US$650M, a YoY growth of 77%
• Production volumes up 4% YoY to 3.80 MMT
• Reported Net Profit of THB 14,070M, Core Net Profit of THB 10,578M
• Reported EPS of THB 2.47 (LTM1Q22: 5.98) and Core EPS of THB 1.85 (LTM1Q22:4.96)
• Record Core EBITDA Margin at 15%

BB Engineering has been shortlisted for the Plastics Recycling Awards Europe 2022 for the category Recycling Machinery Innovation with its PET recycling line VacuFil® Visco+ for fiber-to-fiber inline recycling.

The process presented as part of the award is the combined VacuFil® Visco+ with VarioFil®. This machinery enables the textile industry to perform closed-loop inline recycling of post-consumer polyester (PET) textile waste. The given recycling technology is a thermo-mechanical recycling process optimized for the textile industry. Key component here is the liquid state polycondensation reactor, known as Visco+, to adjust the intrinsic viscosity. Compared to existing fiber recycling processes, which address rather less demanding textile applications and don’t include subsequent spinning, BBE’s solution is a whole-in-one process that enables the textile industry to perform closed-loop inline recycling of post-consumer PET fiber waste even into high-tech textile yarns with low dpf-values.

The Plastics Recycling Awards Europe 2022 winners will be announced on 23 June, during the second day of the Plastics Recycling Show Europe taking place at the RAI Amsterdam.