From the Sector

Enhancing the value of Made in Italy must be placed at the heart of the challenges facing the Italian textile machinery industry in the coming years. This was the message emphasized by Marco Salvadè, President of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, during the General Assembly, held on Friday, 4 July, at the Ferrari Museum in Maranello. Presenting the latest industry figures, Salvadè reported that in 2024 production fell by 8% compared to 2023, amounting to €2.1 billion, while exports declined by 9% (€1.8 billion).

These results are set against a fragile international scenario, with similar trends observed by the main competitors of Italian manufacturers too. China, Turkey, India, and the United States remained the primary export destinations for Italian textile machinery in 2024, despite a persistently weak demand. The first months of 2025 have opened under the same sign of uncertainty.

“U.S. protectionist policies and mounting geopolitical instability risk further slowing global investments in the textile and apparel sector,” commented Salvadè. “In particular, any escalation of the trade war would prove even more damaging to the entire supply chain.”

The protection of authentic Made in Italy is regarded as an urgent priority by the Association. The experience of our workforce, creativity, and an unwavering drive for innovation remain the cornerstones of our success. “It is therefore essential,” Salvadè reaffirmed, “to defend and promote true Made in Italy—products designed and manufactured in Italy without compromise, distinguished by the quality and creativity for which we are renowned worldwide.”

The Assembly also celebrated ACIMIT’s 80th anniversary. “An important milestone that invites us to look back with pride and ahead with renewed passion and responsibility,” the ACIMIT President emphasized. Trade tensions and regional conflicts have reshaped international equilibria, directly impacting corporate strategies. The Italian textile machinery industry, with its strong export orientation, is particularly exposed to these dynamics. While it continues to hold a leading position on the global stage, it must question whether its traditional formula, based on innovation and internationalization, remains fully adequate.

These themes were the focus of the roundtable discussion held during the public session of the Assembly, addressing three key topics for the future of the sector: internationalization, innovation, and sustainability. Participants agreed on the strategic importance of enhancing Made in Italy to boost the competitiveness of Italian companies. The future of Italy’s textile machinery sector cannot forgo a continued drive for innovation, capable of delivering sustainable solutions with low environmental impact while also reducing production costs.  The debate further highlighted the crucial need to consolidate the presence in international markets, both mature and emerging, through initiatives that can strengthen the global leadership of Italian-made machinery.

Istanbul Apparel Exporters’ Association (İHKİB) and Bilişim Vadisi -Technology Development Zone (Informatics Valley) have signed a Cooperation Protocol to enhance the competitiveness of the Turkish apparel industry in global markets. Under this protocol, the parties will develop projects and work packages that add value to the sector, focusing primarily on twin transformation, sustainability, the circular economy, and design. 

Speaking at the signing ceremony, İHKİB Vice President Mustafa Paşahan noted that Türkiye is the world’s seventh-largest apparel supplier and the third-largest supplier to the European Union (EU). He stated that Türkiye accounts for 3.2% of global apparel exports, and continued: 

“We are a leading country in apparel production. Thanks to our high quality, rapid and flexible manufacturing capabilities, and geographical advantages, we stand out from our competitors. We already comply with European standards in areas such as recycling, carbon footprint reduction, digitalization, and social compliance. To further strengthen our position in global markets, we aim to build on these existing strengths and turn digital and green transformation into key opportunities. In this process, we are making effective use of EU funds through projects developed under the IPA (Instrument for Pre-accession Assistance). So far, we have secured €37 million in EU funding. In February, we successfully completed our METAMORPHOSIS project under IPA II, one of the key outcomes of which was the establishment of the Digital Transformation Center, which now serves the industry. Last month, we launched our MIDAS project, also with EU funding, to provide the necessary infrastructure for twin transformation among SMEs. Later this year, we will initiate our 'Carbon Footprint Tracking and Reduction' project, again supported by EU funds. With our new partnership with Bilişim Vadisi, we believe we will launch many innovative projects that will further enhance the global competitiveness of our fashion industry, especially in digitalization and green transformation.” 

ERKAM TUZGEN: CONNECTING STAKEHOLDERS WITHIN THE SAME ECOSYSTEM 
General Manager of Bilişim Vadisi Erkam Tüzgen also shared his thoughts: “Next-generation textile technologies are being driven not only by major players but also by creative startups. Through this program, we are bringing together young entrepreneurs, designers, and technology developers within a shared ecosystem. Bilişim Vadisi will continue to act as a catalyst at this intersection of technology and design.”

Under the protocol, the two parties will apply for national and international support programs focused on digitalization, green transformation, sustainability, the circular economy, and creative industries. They will jointly develop projects and work packages aligned with strategic goals in the technology and design sectors. By collaborating with their affiliates and stakeholders, they will form solution-oriented partnerships in digital transformation and design processes. They will also engage in joint efforts through structures such as digitalization and design clustering centers. Entrepreneurs based in Bilişim Vadisi will be given opportunities to grow through partnerships with İHKİB members.

Organized by İTKİB FuarcılıkA.Ş. in collaboration with the Istanbul Textile Exporters Association (İTHİB), Texhibition Istanbul 2025 once again proved itself as one of the leading international trade fairs for fabrics, yarns, and textile accessories. From March 5–7, 2025, the Istanbul Expo Center transformed into a dynamic meeting point for textile professionals worldwide presenting for fabrics, yarns, and textile accessories. More than 500 exhibitors presented their latest collections and technologies, 22.623 visitors from 106 countries—spanning Europe, North and South America, and Asia—seized the opportunity to connect with industry leaders and explore new business opportunities. European visitors have increased by 30 % compared to September 2024.

The denim sector established itself on its own stage in the Blue-Black Denim Hall 7,
Workshops, creative installations, and fashion presentations, such as the Blue Black Denim Show, made this section one of the most vibrant areas of the fair. Artistic and innovative denim collections showcased the latest developments in the denim industry, including metallic-shimmering fabrics and vintage-reworked denim.
Since the introduction of this segment, Texhibition Istanbul has recorded a significant increase in visitors from the EU, while demand for Turkish denim fabrics has grown considerably.

A central theme at Texhibition Istanbul 2025 was the sustainable transformation of the Turkish textile industry. More and more companies are embracing eco-friendly processes, energy-efficient production methods, and innovative recycling solutions.

Türkiye’s textile and apparel sector is a global leader with an export volume of $32.1 billion. Minister of Trade Ömer Bolat emphasized that Türkiye is among the world's top six textile exporters and the EU’s third-largest supplier. Texhibition Istanbul strengthens the industry by showcasing innovation and design expertise on a global scale. In response to rising costs and global competition, Türkiye successfully focuses on sustainability, technology, and market differentiation.

With 42 exhibiting member companies, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024 is once again marked by a strong presence of VDMA companies. They cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and man-made fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & warp knitting, finishing & dyeing as well as technologies for textile recycling and processing of recycled material.
In total, the German participation at the fair is the largest from outside China.

The VDMA team in Shanghai is staffed again with colleagues from the VDMA headquarters in Germany as well as from VDMA China. With these joined forces, the team is well prepared to support the exhibiting member companies on site.

Dr. Harald Weber, Managing Director VDMA Textile Machinery Association, summarised: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s ITMA ASIA is an essential showcase for the member companies of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association. There is definitely no shortage of chances and opportunities in China and other Asian markets. The exhibiting members will demonstrate their smart technologies that can pave the way to a green textile production and are looking forward to welcoming numerous visitors from various countries to their booths in Shanghai.”

China is aiming at a green and low CO₂ development of its textile industry. At a press conference on the first day of ITMA ASIA + CITME, Georg Stausberg, member of the board of VDMA Textile Machinery and CEO of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division said: “Topics, such as energy efficiency and the careful use of resources have become increasingly important for Asian customers in recent years, not least due to stricter legal framework conditions. VDMA members and their technologies are the right partners on the road to a greener and low CO₂ textile production.”
 
Export performance
Already in 2023, the global textile machinery exports decreased by 18.6 % compared to 2022. This was a challenge all major textile machinery producing countries had to face. However, the German exports remained relatively strong and only declined by 3.4 % in 2023. 2024 did not see a change in the global textile industry and thus the German exports have now also dropped significantly. Between January and July 2024, German exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.2 billion € (2023: 1.6 billion €). The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and July: China: 242 million € (2023: 384 million €), Turkey: 140 million € (2023: 180 million €), USA: 118 million € (2023: 152 million €), India: 100 million € (2023: 153 million €).

Sales opportunities in Asia
An economic survey of VDMA in September, to which 20 textile machinery companies replied, reflects the global challenging situation. Around 36 % assessed their current business situation as satisfactory, 54 % said it was bad. Only very few companies expect the global situation to improve in the next six months.

However, looking at the sales opportunities by regions/countries in Asia, most of the responding companies expect a better business situation in the Asian markets except China in six months. The business situation is expected to be on a satisfactory level then. With regard to this, a presence at ITMA ASIA in Shanghai and next year in Singapore is important for VDMA members to continuously show their innovations and to keep contact with the customers in Asia.

ITM, to be held in Istanbul at the beginning of June, will once again see a strong participation of VDMA member companies. Almost 90 exhibitors from Germany will exhibit at the trade fair, most of whom are members of the VDMA. In addition to the VDMA member companies exhibiting with their own booth, numerous VDMA members will be represented in Istanbul via agents. They cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning, nonwovens, weaving, knitting, warp knitting and finishing.

In Istanbul, the VDMA members will show their latest innovations. In technological terms, significant trends are digitalisation and automation. These themes have been present for some time but will continue to play a central role in meeting the challenges for many years to come. Another trend that has also been around for a while is sustainability. Today it is much more than a buzzword: Efficiency in energy, raw materials or water as well as recycling are not feel-good issues but have a real economic and social background.

For the textile machinery manufacturers organised in the VDMA, Turkey is a major trading partner. In 2023, textile machinery and accessories worth approximately 350 million euros were exported from Germany to Turkey, which made Turkey the second biggest sales market for German companies. After three years in which China was the most important supplier of textile machinery to Turkey, Germany has now regained this top position.

Turkey is at the doorstep of Europe, which gives Turkish textile producers a powerful geographic advantage over Asian sourcing destinations. The textile companies in the region have a deep experience and know-how in making the highest quality textile and apparel for leading markets of Europe and employs a young, dynamic, and well-educated workforce.

But ITM is not just a place for visitors from Turkey, as Dr. Harald Weber, Managing Director of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association explains: “It should not be forgotten that ITM not only attracts visitors from Turkey, but also from the Middle East, Central Asia and North Africa. Turkey's proximity to the European Union and its fully integrated textile value chain also make it interesting in terms of the EU's strategy for sustainable and circular textiles and the increasing importance of recycling in the future.”

For Italian textile machinery sector, 2024 has begun without anything seemingly special. The first quarter has seen the orders index, as reported by the Economics Department of ACIMIT – the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers – remain stationary compared to the same period the previous year. In absolute terms, the index came in at 61.2 points (basis: 2021=100).

This result is due to entirely different trends between the domestic and foreign markets. On the home front, orders were up 15% compared to the first three months of 2023, whereas orders abroad fell by 4%. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets came in at 59.4 points, in comparison to a 73.9 points in Italy. In both cases, new orders remained well below the numbers recorded for 2021, considered as a base year. During the first quarter, order backlog reached 4 months of assured production.

ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè thus commented the data: “The orders intake for the period from January to March 2024 confirms an overall sense of caution on foreign markets in planning new investments. The global geo-political framework remains complex, and these uncertainties are reflected in the buying decisions of many textile manufacturers. Therefore, our primary markets, which include China, Turkey and India, have failed to record any clear signs of growth in demand.”

On the contrary, domestic orders appear to be slightly on the rise. “Following a sharp decline in 2023, new orders from the beginning of the current year have recovered partially,” states ACIMIT’s president. “However, I don’t believe conditions are yet right for a clear inversion of this trend. Here in Italy as well, many investments remain on hold, awaiting the implementation of Transition 5.0 plan. Subsequently, we’ll be in a position see whether the domestic market will react positively to the adoption of these new measures.”

In the fourth quarter of 2023 Italian textile machinery orders index, drawn up by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, appears to be stationary compared to data recorded for the same period in 2022. In terms of absolute value, the index stood at 82.4 points (basis: 2015=100).

This is the result of an upswing in orders from foreign markets, counterbalanced by declining orders on the domestic front. While orders in Italy decreased at 18% rate, a 4% increase was observed abroad. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets amounted to 77.9 points, whereas it came in at 126.2 points domestically. Overall for the fourth quarter, the average order backlog yielded 3.7 months of assured production.

For the whole 2023 year, the index declined 25% overall compared to the 2022 average (absolute index of 82.4). On the home front however, the index dropped 24% (absolute index of 124.5), while slipping 25% abroad (absolute index of 78.4).

ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè commented the data: “The orders index for October – December 2023, as elaborated by our Economics Department, confirms an intake of orders that is still weak, with a negative trend in demand for machinery that is ongoing for the domestic market.” Nonetheless, the orders index abroad shows a slight increase. “We estimate that the global geopolitical context is still a source of concern,” continued Salvadè, specifying that, “For the first nine months of 2023, Italian exports on major global markets (i.e. China, Turkey, India and the United States of America), confirm a widespread decline. However, some positive signs emerged in the fourth quarter of last year, as reflected by the latest orders index. For 2024 we expect a consolidation of this trend reversal.”

EURATEX welcomes the unanimous vote in support of the new rules of origin under the PEM Convention, as a historic achievement. Facilitating trade and investments in the “PanEuroMed” region (covering 27 EU member states and 24 partner countries in the neighbourhood region)¹ is top priority region for the EU, as trade with these countries accounted for €677 billion in 2023. For the EU textile and clothing sector, the region represents 35% of its exports and 21% of its imports.
 
In 2013 the European Commission adopted a package of proposals aimed at increasing trade between the European Union and neighbouring countries in the Pan-Euro-Mediterranean (PEM) region. The proposal introduced modernised rules of origin of the PEM convention, lifting the prohibition of duty-drawback and introducing the principle of “full cumulation”.

Today, after ten years of intense negotiations which EURATEX supported, the European Commission reached a full and final agreement with all PEM partners. This is a landmark achievement that will unlock the full potential of the Euro-Mediterranean area as the biggest and most integrated region of advanced manufacturing and trading of sustainable textiles and clothing. The rules adopted today will accelerate the integration of T&C supply chains and boost T&C production and trade within the region, both in the East and Southern borders of the EU. In a moment when companies are looking at moving their production from Asia to nearby, like-minded and more reliable countries , it is very timely to have the PEM Convention implemented.

EURATEX’s President, Mr Alberto Paccanelli, commented: “This is a strategic trade deal that can help European companies recover from the multiple crisis which we face since 2020”. He continued “We call on the European Union to not stop here, but keep up the efforts to secure trade deals that are good for European companies and their competitive position in the world. The next objective should be the adoption of the EU-Mercosur Agreement and a conclusive settlement of all trade disputes with the United States”.    
 
According to Director General Dirk Vantyghem, “today’s unanimous vote in favour of the modernised PEM rules is good news for our industry.. We should now engage with these partner countries to fully exploit the potential of these new rules. EURATEX is ready to engage in an industrial dialogue with the companies from the PEM Countries to facilitate their transition to the new framework”.

¹ The PanEuroMed contracting parties are: the EU, the EFTA States (Switzerland, Norway, Iceland and Liechtenstein), the Faroe Islands, the participants in the Barcelona Process (Algeria, Egypt, Israel, Jordan, Lebanon, Morocco, the territories of West Bank and Gaza, Syria, Tunisia and Turkey), the participants in the EU's Stabilisation and Association Process (Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Republic of North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Kosovo), the Republic of Moldova, Ukraine.

A total of 59 Italian machinery manufacturers will be exhibiting at the upcoming ITMA ASIA+CITME, to be held from November 19 to 23 in Shanghai, as the event had been postponed for a year in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic. Of these 59 manufacturers, 26 will be presenting technological innovations as part of the National Sector Groups, organized by ACIMIT and ITA – Italian Trade Agency. Occupying a surface area of around 2,000 square meters, Italy is among the major foreign exhibiting Countries at the event.

Asia is a major destination for Italy’s textile machinery manufacturers, with fully 38% of all Italian textile machinery exports during the first half of 2023 (amounting to roughly 338 million euros) directed towards Asian markets. China, in particular, is an absolutely important market for Italian companies: the first in Asia and the second worldwide behind Turkey in 2022. In the first six months of this year, Italian machinery sold in China reached a value of 81 million Euro.

“The general outlook for the Chinese market remains positive, although the demand for foreign machinery from local textile manufacturers has slowed somewhat for this first half of the year,” comments ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè. “Investments in the textile industry have never stopped, so there is no shortage of opportunities in China. I believe ITMA ASIA + CITME will confirm our expectations for a recovery in demand.”

The associations published a joint European textiles industry statement on the energy package claiming incisive actions with no further delay.
Here is the statement in full:

Last month, when gas wholesale prices reached the record level of 340€/MWh – triggering also sky-high electricity prices – the European textiles industry called on the European Union to adopt a wholesale price cap for gas, the revision of the merit-order principle in the electricity market, support for SMEs and a single European strategy. On 14 September 2022, on the occasion of the State of the Union address by President Von der Leyen, the Commission announced initiatives aimed at tackling the dramatic energy crisis that the Europe is facing.

We, the European associations representing the whole textiles’ ecosystem,  welcome these proposals by the Commission to change the TTF benchmark parameters and decouple the TTF from the electricity market and the revision of the merit-order principle for the electricity market, which is no longer serving the purpose it was designed for.

We also welcome the proposal to amend the state-aid framework that, in our view, should include the textiles finishing, the textiles services and the nonwoven sectors as well as a simplification of the application requirements. Furthermore, we call for a uniform implementation across the EU.

However, we acknowledge that the Commission proposal lacks in ambition and – if confirmed – it will come at the cost of losing European industrial capacity and European jobs. Ultimately, Europe will remain without its integrated textiles ecosystem, as we know it today, and no mean to translate into reality the EU textiles strategy, for more sustainable and circular textiles products.

An ambitious and meaningful European price cap on the wholesale price of natural gas is absolutely necessary. Europe is running out of time to save its own industry. It is now time to act swiftly, decisively in unity and solidarity at European level. We understand a very high price cap has been so far discussed among Ministries and that is not reassuring for companies across Europe: if any cap is, as expected, above 100/MWh, these businesses will collapse.

Already in March 2022, with EU gas wholesale prices at 200€/MWh, the business case for keeping textiles production was no longer there. To date, natural gas wholesale prices have reached the level of 340€/MWh, more than 15 times higher compared to 2021! Currently, many businesses have suspended their production processes to avoid the loss of tens of thousands of euros every day. We hope this will not become the new normal and – to reduce the likelihood of such a scenario – we call on the Commission, the EU Council and the Parliament to swiftly adopt decisive, impactful and concrete actions to tackle the energy crisis and ensure the survival of the European industry.

Given the dire international competition in which the EU textiles industry operates, it is not possible to just pass on the increased costs to consumers. Yet, with these sky-high prices, our companies cannot afford to absorb those costs. The EU textiles companies are mainly SMEs that do not have the financial structure to absorb such a shock.  In contrast with such reality in Europe, the wholesale price of gas in the US and China is 10€/MWh, whereas in Turkey the price is 25€/MWh. If the EU does not act, our international competitors will easily replace us in the market, resulting in the de-industrialisation of Europe and a worsened reliance on foreign imports of essential products.

Specific segments of the textile industry are particularly vulnerable:

• The man-made fibres (MMF) industry for instance is an energy intensive sector and a major consumer of natural gas and electricity in the manufacturing of its fibres. Not only is it being affected by higher energy process, it is also experiencing shortages and sharply rising costs of its raw materials.
• For the nonwovens segment, production processes – which use both fibres and filaments extruded in situ – are also highly dependent on gas and electricity. Polymers melting and extrusion, fibres carding, web-forming, web-bonding and drying are energy-intensive techniques. Nonwoven materials can be found in many applications crucial to citizens like in healthcare (face masks) or automotive (batteries).
• It also is to be noted that for some segments the use of gas has no technological substitute: for example, the dyeing and finishing production units make very intense use of gas. These production units are mainly composed by boilers and driers, which only work on gas and there is no alternative technology.
• The textile services sector is also struggling: with the critical nature of the service they provide, they require a considerable amount of energy to keep services, particularly hospitals and care homes stocked with lifesaving material as well as clothing and bed linens for the patients themselves. Losing these businesses would cause a lack of clothing for healthcare professionals, including protective sanitary gowns for surgeons, nurses and doctors, uniforms including other forms of personal protective equipment.