From the Sector

Monforts and its partners Archroma and BW Converting are setting new standards in the resource efficient and cost-effective finishing of fabrics.

During a recent webinar organised by Germany’s VDMA textile machinery association, specialists from the three companies provided details of the range of new energy-saving options that is now available to mills.

In particular, BW Converting’s Baldwin TexCoat® G4 precision spray technology – in combination with advanced Archroma finishing formulations and Monforts MONTEX stenters and MONFORTEX shrinking ranges and related technologies – is pushing the envelope in new standards for sustainable and long-lasting clean productivity.

Functionality
Michael Schuhmann, Global Marketing Finishing at Archroma Textile Effects, explained that typical key functions provided in textile finishing include sweat and odor control, water repellence and UV resistance. Softeners are primarily applied to make fabrics more comfortable while other finishes provide reduced crease formation for easy-care properties. The traditional padding or exhaust techniques for applying these finishes require huge volumes of water and energy intensive drying.

Spray application, by contrast, requires much less water due to drastically reduced ‘pick up’ – the amount of liquid that a fabric absorbs and retains, determining how much finishing agent remains in the fabric. This also enables significantly faster drying, making process speeds of up to 100 metres per minute possible, depending on the fabric. 

“As the global fashion brands commit to reducing their emissions, the textile processing industry must respond by adopting safer chemistries with resource-saving processes such as spray application,” Schuhmann said.

Precision
Rick Stanford, Vice President Global Business Development for Textiles at BW Converting, explained that at the core of the Baldwin TexCoat G4 technology are precision valves that were originally developed for the offset printing industry and have been refined over the past 40 years through more than 40,000 installations globally. 

“These enable extremely precise spray flows which are controlled by proprietary software algorithms,” he said.

Over 100 TexCoat G4 units have been installed worldwide and all three companies are enjoying notable success with bed sheeting manufacturers in Pakistan.

“Our first TexCoat G4 in Pakistan was installed in Spring of 2024 for a manufacturer using Archroma chemistry and a ten-chamber Monforts MONTEX stenter,” Stanford explained. “When using the padder at this mill, the pickup rate was 65% and with TexCoat G4 we were able to reduce that to 27%. As a result, the customer was able to increase the MONTEX speed from 60 metres a minute to 100 metres a minute, while also reducing the operating temperature in the stenter. We have subsequently sold 30 TexCoat G4 units in Pakistan, driven primarily by the system’s proven productivity and efficiency gains.”

Energy savings
“A BW Converting Baldwin TexCoat G4 unit is now installed at the Monforts Advanced Technology Center (ATC) for trials and fully complementing spray finishing operations are our multiple energy saving innovations,” added Saskia Kuhlen, Monforts Engineer for Textile Technologies. “MONTEX stenters are equipped with the TwinAir air volume regulation system as well as the TwinTherm system for temperature control and feature CADstreamE variable nozzles. These features enable full adjustment to a specific fabric width for either higher operational speeds or lower electrical energy. A further benefit is the150-mm wide advanced insulation system inside the stenter frame”.

Further Monforts modules for optimizing processes include the the coaTTex unit for the knife coating of paste and foam application and the EcoApplicator, a kiss-coating technology for the indirect application of finishes on one or both sides of a fabric, with a stenter production speed up to 100m/min. Both can be integrated into existing lines.

The Monforts Energy Tower and EcoBooster are meanwhile modules for air/air heat exchanging, for heat recovery from the exhaust flow of thermal systems. They can also be retrofitted to existing stenter frames, relaxation dryers, infrared pre-dryers and hotflues.

“We continue to explore the best heating options for every customer, with optimised combinations in order to make our lines as energy efficient as possible,” Kuhlen said. “We have also been deeply investigating the potential of green hydrogen as a further option for the future.”

BW Converting’s Baldwin TexChroma™
In response to a big market demand, the three technology partners are now turning their attention to the dyeing process.

At ITMA Asia + CITME in Singapore, from October 28-31, they will introduce the resource-saving combination of THERMEX continuous dyeing ranges with the new BW Converting Baldwin TexChroma™ spray dyeing system. 

“We are excited to introduce the Baldwin TexChroma because spray dyeing is the future,” said Stanford. “We’ve been cautious about providing details on TexChroma too early, but now we’re ready and look forward to outlining its benefits in Singapore with interested customers. We will also be installing a TexChroma unit on a THERMEX line at the Monforts ATC in 2026.”

BW Converting will preview its new Baldwin TexChroma™ digital spray dyeing system at ITMA Asia + CITME 2025 in Singapore, Oct. 28–31, 2025. This transformative solution builds on the company’s success with Baldwin TexCoat® G4 precision spray finishing system and is designed to help dyehouses achieve major reductions in energy, water, and chemical usage while improving quality and profitability.
 
“We are excited to introduce Baldwin TexChroma because spray dyeing is the future and many of our customers are already experiencing the benefits,” said Yiannis Vasilonikolos, Global Sales Leader for Textiles, BW Converting. “We have conducted successful trials of TexChroma using pigment, reactive, acid, and disperse dyes on both cotton and synthetic fibers.”
 
According to production data to date, TexChroma can deliver savings of more than 30% in energy, dyes, and chemicals compared to continuous pad batch dyeing, and up to 50% compared to exhaust reactive dyeing. A unique feature is its ability to mix reactive dyestuffs and alkali fixation chemicals just seconds before spray application, eliminating tailing and listing - common issues that cause uneven dye application and color variation.
 
The launch of TexChroma follows the success of the Baldwin TexCoat G4 precision spray finishing system, which has seen rapid adoption worldwide for its ability to deliver 40–50% energy savings and cut water and chemical usage by half. 
 
“We believe TexChroma will be a game-changer for dyehouses, reducing costly rework and delivering the consistency this market has long been waiting for," explained Rick Stanford, Vice President of Global Business Development for Textiles, BW Converting. "The dyeing process is unforgiving, and we’ve taken a careful, deliberate approach to get it right. The market has been ready for some time, and now, so are we.”
 
BW Converting will showcase TexChroma alongside its textile finishing solutions at ITMA Asia + CITME 2025.

At K show in Düsseldorf, the world’s leading trade fair for plastics and rubber, EREMA Group announced a strategic investment in clean technology company BlockTexx®. The Australian pioneer has developed a process that separates polyester and cellulose from blended textiles. By combining both companies’ technologies, the partnership aims to scale post-consumer textile-to-textile recycling to industrial levels.

BlockTexx®‘s process separates polyester and cellulose from post-consumer textiles and clothing, providing the polyester for EREMA’s technology. The INTAREMA® FibrePro:IV system will process the polyester into recycled pellets suitable for new garment production. “Our thermomechanical recycling system is a core element for textile recycling,” said Wolfgang Hermann, Business Development Manager for Fibres & Textiles at EREMA Group. “However, full-scale textile recycling requires a combination of technologies, with BlockTexx® unlocking the solution for processing polyester-blended textiles.“

Industrial-scale expansion
BlockTexx® operates its first plant in Australia with a processing capacity of 10,000 tonnes per year, with plans for a second plant of 50,000 tonnes per year. Scaling up requires a strong investment partner. “Blended textiles like cotton-polyester account for over 60 per cent of global apparel production but are notoriously difficult to recycle due to fibre incompatibility and chemical contamination”, says Adrian Jones, co-founder of BlockTexx®. EREMA Group’s investment brings not only capital but also deep recycling expertise, proven technology and infrastructure. From the very beginning, it felt like a true partnership, Jones notes: “Both companies share the same intellectual curiosity and EREMA Group was committed to this journey from day one.” 

Textile industry faces recycling challenges
According to global non-profit Textile Exchange 75 million tonnes of synthetic fibres were produced in 2023, with polyester being the most common, accounting for 57 per cent of total fibre production. Recycling rates for polyester are estimated at only 1 per cent. “Currently, nearly all the recycled polyester in the clothing you see in retail stores is derived from PET plastic bottles” says Graham Ross, co-founder of BlockTexx®. As per Textile Exchange, recycled fibres constituted 7.7 per cent of the global fibre market in 2023, with 7 per cent being recycled polyester from waste PET bottles. Hackl emphasizes: “The goal must be to ensure that rPET from bottles is returned to new bottles. This investment is not only positive for the textile industry, but also for the plastics industry. By keeping rPET in the bottle-to-bottle loop, we can stabilize supply and prices for the market.”

With the EU recently adopting binding legislation that will make textile producers responsible for the collection, sorting and recycling of textile waste through mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes, the sector is set for change. As these rules come into force over the coming years, the demand for post-consumer textile recycling solutions is expected to grow significantly. “The EU legislation could fundamentally transform the sector. While most textile production takes place in Asia, Europe is a major consumer of fashion. This legislation will therefore have a significant global impact”, Ross notes.

Setting new standards for circularity
By combining mechanical processing, chemical separation, and fibre regeneration, the partnership establishes a model that sets new industrial standards for circularity. “Twenty-five years ago, people could not imagine bottle-to-bottle recycling. Today it is standard. I believe the same will happen for textile-to-textile recycling”, says Hackl. “The textile industry has been slow to recognize the importance of recycling, often citing difficulties as an excuse. Now there are no more excuses. Textile-to-textile recycling will become a reality at industrial-scale through the collaboration between EREMA and BlockTexx®,” adds Jones.

Through the strategic collaboration the EREMA Group emphasizes its commitment to returning polyester to the apparel production cycle and scaling up textile-to-textile recycling. “The PET fibre industry is three times the size of the PET bottle industry. We have been investing in the research and development of textile and fibre recycling for several years. With the technology we already provide for PET fibre recycling, our next step is to aim for full-scale industrial textile recycling. We consider BlockTexx® a key partner in this. Their technology paves the way for used textiles to re-enter the production cycle,” said Manfred Hackl, CEO of EREMA Group.

RE&UP is diving into Textile Exchange Conference 2025, joining a global community of innovators, brands, and changemakers. This year’s conference theme is Shifting Landscapes: Connecting Environmental Adaptation and Systems Transformation, which explores how the fashion industry can adapt, innovate, and accelerate the shift toward circularity. 

RE&UP is a circulartech company reshaping the traditional textile-to-textile paradigm. By producing Next-Gen Cotton and Next-Gen Polyester that maintain the same performance as virgin fibers, it brings sustainable solutions to life, addressing the planet's most pressing challenges. Enriched by SANKO’s centenary knowledge in textile innovation, RE&UP creates a circular ecosystem that transforms end-of-life textile waste into high-quality raw materials at scale.

On Day 1 of the event, Ebru Ozkucuk Guler, RE&UP’s Chief Sustainability Officer, joined the panel “Toward Impactful Textile-to-Textile Recycling Systems”, alongside Suhas Khandagale (H&M) and Cyndi Rhoades (Circle-8 Textile Ecosystems). The interactive session examined the current and future scale of feedstocks for textile-to-textile recycling, discussed legislation, sorting challenges, and explored practical solutions to accelerate circularity. 

“If we truly want to create a solution, brands must stay committed, stepping back is no longer an option,” said Ebru Ozkucuk Guler, RE&UP. “We were thrilled to share insights and explore actionable solutions with partners committed to circularity.” 

Beyond the panel, RE&UP is showcasing its pioneering circular solutions and engaging with brands and suppliers to translate sustainability commitments into measurable impact. By connecting practical solutions with policy insights and on-the-ground innovation, RE&UP is helping the industry move from theory to action, proving that circularity is not just a goal, but a tangible path forward. 

With the fashion industry facing increasing pressure to reduce waste and embrace regenerative practices, events like Textile Exchange are critical for building collaboration, sharing knowledge, and inspiring systemic change.

Jeanologia, a global leader in sustainable technologies for the textile industry, returns to Kingpins Amsterdam with its new collection “Mediterranean Soul”, blending nature, creativity, and technology to prove that authentic denim can be designed and produced with efficiency and minimal environmental impact.

The collection draws inspiration from the power of the Mediterranean Sea and the essence of Valencia, Jeanologia’s hometown. Following the devastating floods that hit the city in October 2024, the collection is a tribute to resilience, nature, and Mediterranean creativity, reinterpreted in the world’s most universal fabric: denim.

"Mediterranean Soul is a story of resilience and creativity brought to life through denim," says Carme Santacruz, Creative Director at Jeanologia. The collection captures the Mediterranean beauty and vibrancy in every garment: the deep blues of the sea, the golden texture of sand, sunlight reflecting on facades, and the lively energy of urban and natural landscapes. More than fashion, it is a manifesto— environmentally conscious design that is at once authentic, innovative, and sustainable. "Mediterranean Soul is a journey that connects our roots with our global mission to detoxify and dehydrate the fashion industry, without sacrificing creativity or efficiency," adds Santacruz.

Laser + G2 Ozone: bringing Mediterranean landscapes to life through denim
To capture this Mediterranean spirit, Jeanologia combines two most powerful technologies:

• Laser, which brings landscapes and natural textures to life with hyper-realistic, unique designs. It has transformed the way jeans are designed and produced, eliminating any hand tough and offering infinite creative possibilities. Today it allows reproducing vintage effects, 3D textures, breaks, or vector designs with precision, speed, and consistency, digitalizing the entire design process and ensuring creativity, quality, and efficiency.
• G2 Ozone Indra, whose ATMOS process creates abrasion and a wide variety of washes, from deep indigo blues to light tones, as well as blacks and greys. This “air washer” replaces traditional washing methods with ozone and precise humidity control, achieving authentic washes without water, chemicals, or pumice stones, and reducing both environmental impact and costs.

Together, Laser + G2 Ozone give designers total freedom to create authentic finishes with greater contrast, brightness, and naturalness, achieving true sustainability at the best cost.

‘Digital to real’, from virtual design to real garment
At Kingpins, Jeanologia also presents ‘Digital to Real’, a space where visitors can experience how digitalization accelerates the design-to-production process. With eDesigner, brands can develop and visualize denim finishes in a fully digital environment, reducing up to 80 percent of physical samples, cutting emissions, and connecting creativity directly with production.

‘Made in España’: creativity, innovation, and sustainability
At Kingpins, Jeanologia takes part in ‘Made in España’, a space that celebrates the strength and creativity of the Spanish textile industry.

Together with Recover, Jeanologia showcases circular, responsible, and creative denim, highlighting new ways to enhance sustainability and close the loop in denim production.
Alongside Textil Santanderina and Pinter, the company will inspire visitors with a collection that blends art and fashion, a reflection of Spanish innovation, craftsmanship, and contemporary creativity.