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(c) Linda Bulic for Fashion for Good
04.04.2023

FASHION FOR GOOD: Sustainable Dyestuff Library

At the beginning of April Fashion for Good launched Dyestuff Library, a digital tool enabling partners to choose sustainable dyestuff based on competitive performance and environmental metrics for commercial use. The library, which will accelerate the shift from harmful chemistry to more sustainable options by enabling visibility and access to innovations, is supported by Fashion for Good’s corporate partners adidas, Inditex, bonprix and Otto International (members of the Otto group), BESTSELLER, Target, Patagonia, Paradise Textiles, Welspun, and newest partner Shahi Exports, along with other supporting stakeholders.

At the beginning of April Fashion for Good launched Dyestuff Library, a digital tool enabling partners to choose sustainable dyestuff based on competitive performance and environmental metrics for commercial use. The library, which will accelerate the shift from harmful chemistry to more sustainable options by enabling visibility and access to innovations, is supported by Fashion for Good’s corporate partners adidas, Inditex, bonprix and Otto International (members of the Otto group), BESTSELLER, Target, Patagonia, Paradise Textiles, Welspun, and newest partner Shahi Exports, along with other supporting stakeholders.

Textile dyes were derived from nature before synthetic dyes, discovered by WH Perkin in 1856, revolutionised the textile industry. Today, 90% of our clothing is synthetically dyed, but the toxic effects and ecological impact are extremely harmful to humans and the environment. Over the years, a significant amount of effort has gone into phasing out harmful chemistry and there are consistent efforts to develop non-hazardous chemistry. Today, many alternative dyes from natural sources such as plants, microorganisms, algae and recycled materials are available, however the lack of clarity on their performance and scale makes it difficult for the industry to switch to these sustainable options.

Over the course of a year, 15 selected dyestuff innovations will participate in lab and pilot trials. Innovators will go through extensive compliance and toxicity testing to ensure they are safe for commercial use. Testing and validating the performance of these innovative dyes and pigments on various textile substrates will be supported by the supply chain partners Paradise Textiles and RDD Textiles, University and labs partners NimkarTek, Institute of Chemical Technology and UNICAMP. Furthermore, participating Fashion for Good partners, textile experts and ZDHC will support this project with their expertise and encourage next steps for industry implementation.

After the completion of the project, Fashion for Good will continue developing the library with additional innovators, materials, fabric constructions, testing methods and innovative colouration machineries to enable innovation implementation in the fashion industry.

ABOUT FASHION FOR GOOD
Fashion for Good is a global innovation platform. At its core is the Global Innovation Programme that supports disruptive innovators on their journey to scale, providing hands-on project management, access to funding and expertise, and collaborations with brands and manufacturers to accelerate supply chain implementation.
To activate individuals and industry alike, Fashion for Good houses the world’s first interactive museum dedicated to sustainable fashion and innovation to inform and empower people from across the world and creates open-source resources to action change.

Fashion for Good’s programmes are supported by founding partner Laudes Foundation, co-founder William McDonough and corporate partners adidas, BESTSELLER, Burberry, C&A, CHANEL, Inditex, Kering, Levi Strauss & Co., Otto Group, Patagonia, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target and Zalando, and affiliate and regional partners Arvind Limited, Birla Cellulose, Norrøna, Pangaia, Paradise Textiles, Shahi Exports, Teijin Frontier, Vivobarefoot, Welspun and W. L. Gore & Associates.

Illustration: Chalmers University of Technology | David Ljungberg
28.03.2023

New wood-based technology removes 80 % of dye pollutants in wastewater

Researchers at Chalmers University of Technology, Sweden, have developed a new method that can easily purify contaminated water using a cellulose-based material. This discovery could have implications for countries with poor water treatment technologies and combat the widespread problem of toxic dye discharge from the textile industry.

Clean water is a prerequisite for our health and living environment, but far from a given for everyone. According to the World Health Organization, WHO, there are currently over two billion people living with limited or no access to clean water.

This global challenge is at the centre of a research group at Chalmers University of Technology, which has developed a method to easily remove pollutants from water. The group, led by Gunnar Westman, Associate Professor of Organic Chemistry focuses on new uses for cellulose and wood-based products and is part of the Wallenberg Wood Science Center.

Researchers at Chalmers University of Technology, Sweden, have developed a new method that can easily purify contaminated water using a cellulose-based material. This discovery could have implications for countries with poor water treatment technologies and combat the widespread problem of toxic dye discharge from the textile industry.

Clean water is a prerequisite for our health and living environment, but far from a given for everyone. According to the World Health Organization, WHO, there are currently over two billion people living with limited or no access to clean water.

This global challenge is at the centre of a research group at Chalmers University of Technology, which has developed a method to easily remove pollutants from water. The group, led by Gunnar Westman, Associate Professor of Organic Chemistry focuses on new uses for cellulose and wood-based products and is part of the Wallenberg Wood Science Center.

The researchers have built up solid knowledge about cellulose nanocrystals1  – and this is where the key to water purification lies. These tiny nanoparticles have an outstanding adsorption capacity, which the researchers have now found a way to utilise.

“We have taken a unique holistic approach to these cellulose nanocrystals, examining their properties and potential applications. We have now created a biobased material, a form of cellulose powder with excellent purification properties that we can adapt and modify depending on the types of pollutants to be removed,” says Gunnar Westman.

Absorbs and breaks down toxins
In a study recently published in the scientific journal Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research, the researchers show how toxic dyes can be filtered out of wastewater using the method and material developed by the group. The research was conducted in collaboration with the Malaviya National Institute of Technology Jaipur in India, where dye pollutants in textile industry wastewater are a widespread problem.

The treatment requires neither pressure nor heat, and uses sunlight to catalyse the process. Gunnar Westman likens the method to pouring raspberry juice into a glass with grains of rice, which soak up the juice to make the water transparent again.
 
“Imagine a simple purification system, like a portable box connected to the sewage pipe. As the contaminated water passes through the cellulose powder filter, the pollutants are absorbed and the sunlight entering the treatment system causes them to break down quickly and efficiently. It is a cost-effective and simple system to set up and use, and we see that it could be of great benefit in countries that currently have poor or non-existent water treatment,” he says.

The method will be tested in India
India is one of the developing countries in Asia with extensive textile production, where large amounts of dyes are released into lakes, rivers and streams every year. The consequences for humans and the environment are serious. Water contaminant contains dyes and heavy metals and can cause skin damage with direct contact and increase the risk of cancer and organ damage when they enter into the food chain. Additionally, nature is affected in several ways, including the impairment of photosynthesis and plant growth.

Conducting field studies in India is an important next step, and the Chalmers researchers are now supporting their Indian colleagues in their efforts to get some of the country's small-scale industries to test the method in reality. So far, laboratory tests with industrial water have shown that more than 80 percent of the dye pollutants are removed with the new method, and Gunnar Westman sees good opportunities to further increase the degree of purification.

“Going from discharging completely untreated water to removing 80 percent of the pollutants is a huge improvement, and means significantly less destruction of nature and harm to humans. In addition, by optimising the pH and treatment time, we see an opportunity to further improve the process so that we can produce both irrigation and drinking water. It would be fantastic if we can help these industries to get a water treatment system that works, so that people in the surrounding area can use the water without risking their health,” he says.

Can be used against other types of pollutants
Gunnar Westman also sees great opportunities to use cellulose nanocrystals for the treatment of other water pollutants than dyes. In a previous study, the research group has shown that pollutants of toxic hexavalent chromium, which is common in wastewater from mining, leather and metal industries, could be successfully removed with a similar type of cellulose-based material. The group is also exploring how the research area can contribute to the purification of antibiotic residues.

“There is great potential to find good water purification opportunities with this material, and in addition to the basic knowledge we have built up at Chalmers, an important key to success is the collective expertise available at the Wallenberg Wood Science Center,” he says.

Read the full article in Industrial & Engineering Chemistry Research: Cellulose nanocrystals derived from microcrystalline cellulose for selective removal of Janus Green Azo Dye. The authors of the article are Gunnar Westman and Amit Kumar Sonker of Chalmers University of Technology, and Ruchi Aggarwal, Anjali Kumari Garg, Deepika Saini, and Sumit Kumar Sonkar of Malaviya National Institute of Technology Jaipur in India. The research is funded by the Wallenberg Wood Science Center, WWSC and the Indian group research is funded by Science and Engineering Research Board under Department of Science and Technology (DST-SERB) Government of India.

1 Nanocrystals are nanoparticles in crystal form that are extremely small: a nanoparticle is between 1 and 100 nanometres in at least one dimension, i.e. along one axis. (one nanometre = one billionth of a metre).

Source:

Chalmers University of Technology in Gothenburg, Sweden

Seaweed dyed with biomaterials. Photo: Department of Seaweed
04.10.2022

The Future of Natural Textile Dyes

  • Lab-grown Pigments and Food By-Products

As the environmental impact of the fashion and textile industries becomes clearer, the demand and need for sustainable alternatives is growing. One international research group aims to replace toxic synthetic dyes with natural alternatives, ranging from plants to microbes to food waste.
 
Walk into any clothing store and you'll find a rainbow of fluorescent shirts, pastel sweaters and blue jeans that rotate in and out of style each season. The colours of each garment are pristine, eye-catching and identical, but there are consequences hidden in those racks of colourful clothes.

  • Lab-grown Pigments and Food By-Products

As the environmental impact of the fashion and textile industries becomes clearer, the demand and need for sustainable alternatives is growing. One international research group aims to replace toxic synthetic dyes with natural alternatives, ranging from plants to microbes to food waste.
 
Walk into any clothing store and you'll find a rainbow of fluorescent shirts, pastel sweaters and blue jeans that rotate in and out of style each season. The colours of each garment are pristine, eye-catching and identical, but there are consequences hidden in those racks of colourful clothes.

Our planet and the factory workers producing our clothes are paying a steep price: toxic chemicals used in the synthetic dyeing process pollute waterways and soil.
Introduced in the 1860s, synthetic dyes and pigments have become commonplace in the textile industry. These dyes are part of the reason why clothes of every colour imaginable are so readily available: they offer quick and easy alternatives to the natural sources of colour that used to be the only option.

While this synthetic process has become normalised, using natural pigments to dye textiles has been part of human history for thousands of years.
BioColour suggests it's time to revisit and reimagine this long history.

Associate Professor in Design at Aalto University and member of the BioColour research group Kirsi Niinimäki explains, ‘We’re looking back in history to see how we can bring the information we had before synthetic chemicals existed to the current day, but also how we can apply it in a more modern way by working with the [textile] industry.’

BioColour is an international research consortium of designers, material scientists, biologists, mathematicians and engineers. These researchers from Finnish, American and Brazilian universities and research institutes work together to find non-toxic and biodegradable natural alternatives to synthetic dyes and pigments.
 
Natural dyes at an industrial scale
BioColour’s research isn't just about identifying and testing natural colour sources, it's also about working with the textile industry and consumers to bring widespread change to the new normal of synthetic colours.

One such example comes from Finnish design house Marimekko. Using dyer’s woad, a plant native to Finland, the project tested this alternative to synthetic indigo, a dye that's created using toxic chemicals like formaldehyde.

This collaboration revealed an additional perk of natural dyes: as a Finnish design house, by using a plant cultivated in Finland, Marimekko could tell a local story with dyer’s woad that wasn’t possible with synthetic indigo.

Such collaborations are an opportunity to challenge and learn from each other, says Niinimäki. While BioColour challenges industry partners to work with different methods and recipes that draw on historical practices, industry partners put dye recipes to the test outside of precise laboratory conditions.

‘In a laboratory, it’s possible [adjust] processes, but when we go to the industry, it’s not possible to precisely modify the recipes,’ says Niinimäki, ‘we have to accept the industrial processes and what comes out of them.’

The textile industry isn't the only source of collaboration: Food and agricultural industries create massive amounts of biowaste that spell untapped potential of natural dyes. By-products such as onion skins and willow bark from these industries can be used to dye clothing, creating new side streams and reducing waste.

Though the details are still secret, Niinimäki also described an ongoing collaboration with a food company that aims to investigate how much pigment can be extracted from food waste material. They will also test the durability of said colours.

Changing attitudes towards colour
Ensuring consumers are willing to purchase naturally dyed textiles is vital in the quest to replace synthetic dyes. Yet, consumers still find this concept to be a strange one, according to Niinimäki.

Synthetic dyes are appealing because they provide long-lasting and identical colours between each garment. As Niinimäki points out, however, that ‘sameness’ is one of fast fashion’s problems.

‘Blue is a trendy colour, but why does everything have to be the same blue? Even in mass production, why can’t we accept that there might be different kinds of blue? Why does everything have to be the same?’

Natural dyes, which are not as stable, may look different from garment to garment and even fade over time.
These fading colours don't need to be seen as a negative, however.

Niinimäki believes fading colours open the door to an attractive new type of design: garments could be designed to reveal new patterns as certain colours fade over time.

While BioColour’s consumer studies aim to identify and change current attitudes to colours and textiles, other researchers in the group are investigating the durability and longevity of natural dyes. Fading colours may offer interesting design potential, but they aren't the only option.

Drawing on history to invent the future
Natural sources of colour aren't limited to plants and mushrooms—the world of microbes offers huge potential for the future of dyes and pigments.

Bacteria can be a source of non-toxic biodegradable pigment and a method of helping dyes to stick to textile fibres. Using bacteria in the natural dyeing process harkens back to the slower pace of fashion, as it can take weeks of growing and feeding the bacteria.

This use of bacteria in the dyeing process has inspired BioColour collaborators from the VTT Technical Research Centre to investigate lab-grown colourants. Their research explores how the DNA of microbes can be modified to produce a variety of different pigments that could be scaled to wider textile production.
 
Lab-grown colourants are a particularly promising future because, as Niinimäki explains, there is limited land to cultivate plants for dyes. Climate change is and will continue to change our environment and cause food and water insecurity. This means resources will need to be diverted to food cultivation.

These pigment-producing microbes expand the possibilities of non-toxic, biodegradable dyes while saving land and resources in the process.
While it may be drawn from history, the research behind natural dyes is anything but old news.

Source:

Aalto University, Finland; Kirsi Niinimäki, Associate Professor

Photo: Baldwin
14.06.2022

Baldwin: Optimizing Productivity while Reducing Environmental Impact

After a long pandemic-related dry spell, the Techtextil and Texprocess trade fairs, which are expected to attract more than 1,300 exhibitors from 51 countries in June 2022, are returning to Frankfurt with forward-looking formats.

Textination spoke to companies about their expectations of the fair and the product portfolio and innovations they will be presenting in Frankfurt in a few days' time.

After a long pandemic-related dry spell, the Techtextil and Texprocess trade fairs, which are expected to attract more than 1,300 exhibitors from 51 countries in June 2022, are returning to Frankfurt with forward-looking formats.

Textination spoke to companies about their expectations of the fair and the product portfolio and innovations they will be presenting in Frankfurt in a few days' time.

Let’s talk about finishing technologies: Dr Wesley Clements, Global Leader of Engineering and R&D for Baldwin Technology Company Inc. gave us insights into the company's innovations serving the growing importance of sustainability in textile finishing and his expectations approaching Techtextil.
 

Dr Wesley Clements, what makes your company special and different - compared to competitors?
 
Baldwin Technology Company Inc., based in St. Louis, Missouri, USA, was founded in 1918 by William Gegenheimer, who invented the Baldwin Press Washer, the first automatic press-cleaning system of its kind. We are a leading global manufacturer and supplier of innovative process-automation equipment, parts, service and consumables for the printing, packaging, textile, plastic film extrusion and corrugated industries. As a total solutions provider, we offer our customers a broad range of market-leading technologies, with a focus on improving the economic and environmental impact of production processes.

Baldwin designs the innovative and revolutionary non-contact Precision Spray Technology for fabric finishing and remoistening to save time, money and valuable resources. Our mindset is to increase the process speed, product quality and production control with great return on investment and the highest environmental care.

The Precision Spray Technology originates back in time when Baldwin innovated world-leading spray systems for the web offset industry. Now, 35 years later, this technology is further developed, tailor made to the specific requirements of the textile industry. Our expert team will ensure that our clients’ investment provides the expected return in operational efficiencies, uptime and quality.
 

How do you define Textile Leadership for your company?

We believe business could be the most powerful force for good in society if business leaders would care for the lives of those who make their business possible. Our deep care for people naturally extends to the environment as well. As we care for our people and our customers, we must care for the planet on which they live. One of the biggest challenges facing the textile industry today is the environmental impact in terms of energy, chemical and water consumption.

The issue brands face around sustainability is who pays for it. Fashion has stimulated a consumer appetite and demand for frequently changing collections at affordable prices. The expectation is the brands are the owners of the problem so they must absorb any costs.

An industry inertia against migrating away from old wasteful processes is not helping the perception. One process is the archaically wasteful pad-based finishing process of dipping fabrics into chemical baths. The resulting excess water, energy and chemistry consumption all run counter to the concept of sustainability.

But what if there was a way to reduce consumption of all three and increase efficiency, and reduce cost and produce a high-quality product? With our non-contact spray technology, our customers are always in full control of the chemical-to-water ratio throughout the production run, so there is never more usage than is actually required.
 

Which products/product innovations will you present at the fair?

Our TexCoat G4, a non-contact finishing system, will be of special interest for potential customers. Non-contact spray technology eliminates contamination of finishing chemicals by fabric particles and colors. As outlined below, this non-contact feature is the key to eliminating chemical waste and reducing energy consumption.

In fabric or chemistry changeovers, 100% of the chemicals are recycled with zero waste. In combination with reduced energy, water and chemicals consumption, TexCoat G4 ensures a sustainable and financially beneficial textile finishing process.

The exact amount of chemicals required is consistently and uniformly sprayed across the textile surface and applied only where it is needed – on one side or both sides of the fabric. As only the necessary amount of chemicals is applied, the wet pick-up levels are reduced by up to 50%, leading to 50% decreased water consumption as well as 50% less drying energy. With TexCoat G4 you don’t have to worry about chemical dilution in wet-on-wet applications or any bath contaminations. Moreover, there will be zero downtime in fabric changeovers.

In fabric or chemistry changeovers, 100% of the chemicals are recycled with zero waste. In combination with reduced energy, water and chemicals consumption, TexCoat G4 ensures a sustainable and financially beneficial textile finishing process.

To ensure total process control, the TexCoat G4 system features an integrated recipe management system with automated chemical- and coverage selection. As an option, TexCoat Data Center offers unprecedented tracking and control of the finishing process via real-time monitoring and tracking of critical system information. You will always have full control of your textile finishing process.
 

What goals do you want to achieve with the trade fair presentation?

That is an easy question. We, like most companies, are really looking forward to meeting our customers in person. Many customer visits have already been booked and we have a strong team there to support them. This includes our Textile Technologist Yiannis Vasilonikolos, who brings 20 years of dyeing and finishing experience into our team. Baldwin strongly promotes partnership with the suppliers of finishing chemicals to maximize success as the industry transitions from wasteful foulard technology to sustainable non-contact spray. We will be meeting with these partners and together we are working on joint projects with several customers. With a combination of our strong team and these partnerships, our goal is to ensure that our customers leave the show confident to adopt sustainable non-contact finishing technology.

Source:

The interview with Dr Wesley Clements was conducted by Ines Chucholowius, Managing Partner of Textination GmbH

(c) Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH
07.06.2022

Techtextil and Texprocess 2022: Highlights for international visitors

Techtextil and Texprocess 2022 are planning a strong re-start with future-oriented trade fair formats and over 1,300 exhibitors from 51 countries. Highlights, such as the Denim Future Lab, the Performance Textiles in Fashion special show and the Techtextil respectively Texprocess Forum will present the high degree of innovation in the industry and offer a platform for exchange and further development.

Techtextil and Texprocess 2022 are planning a strong re-start with future-oriented trade fair formats and over 1,300 exhibitors from 51 countries. Highlights, such as the Denim Future Lab, the Performance Textiles in Fashion special show and the Techtextil respectively Texprocess Forum will present the high degree of innovation in the industry and offer a platform for exchange and further development.

The first edition of the leading international trade fairs since the outbreak of the Corona pandemic has reached a booking level of over 1,300 exhibiting companies from 51 countries, twelve international country pavilions and numerous joint stand participants. In addition to German exhibitors, companies from Italy, France, Turkey and Spain are most frequently represented. In exhibition halls 8, 9, 11 and 12, diverse and innovative products and processes will be presented to the global trade audience in June. With different formats and special shows, Techtextil and Texprocess offer an ideal setting for face-to-face meetings, encourage discussions and promote further development of the industry.

"We are delighted that Techtextil and Texprocess are finally making it possible for international decision-makers to exchange ideas again. The current situation is characterized by economic and social challenges, from pandemic-related influences to supply bottlenecks and raw material shortages. This makes it all the more important for the industry to come together in one place and find solutions together. We are pleased to be able to offer a platform for new and further developments, for example with the Techtextil and Texprocess Innovation Awards," reports Michael Jänecke, Director Brand Management Technical Textiles & Textile Processing.

Denim Future Lab: The denim production of the future
In hall 8.0, the future of the denim industry will be spotlighted. The Denim Future Lab highlights the industry's innovative approaches and presents advancements along many stages of the denim processing chain. How will denim be produced and processed sustainably? How can luxury denim be customized in the future? Innovative and progressive companies such as Jeanologia, Ugolini, Wiser Tech, Brongo and IEN Industrie S.p.A. will present trends such as eco-bleaching, eco-dyeing, upcycling solutions or individual design and finishing of luxury denim. The Speakers Corner of the Denim Future Lab offers the opportunity to exchange experiences with experts and invites to discussions. With the support of the Transformer Foundation and the exhibitors, topics such as greenwashing, chemicals in the production process as well as cotton and other fibers will be discussed in the Speakers Corner free of charge.

Performance Textiles in Fashion: Experiencing textile end products
At Techtextil, countless innovative textiles for a wide range of industries will be presented. To demonstrate the properties or possible applications, most exhibitors also show end products from the many areas of application, including apparel. The special show "Performance Textiles in Fashion" in hall 9.1 brings functional textiles and fashion to life for visitors. The special show will feature extraordinary and innovative garments.

Techtextil Forum and Texprocess Forum: What moves the industry
On all four days of the fair, the Techtextil Forum in hall 9.1 will offer exciting expert lectures and discussions on a wide range of topics relating to technical textiles and nonwovens. These include talks such as "Circular Economy in the Textile Industry - a Positioning", "Development of 3D-printed composite elements for personal stab protective clothing" or "Transforming Textiles to Testimonies - recycled solutions for architectural membranes". The patron of the Techtextil Forum is once again EURATEX - The European Apparel and Textile Confederation.
 
In the Texprocess Forum in hall 9.0, everything will revolve around current industry topics in the processing of textile and flexible materials. Expert presentations on topics such as Impact 4.0 / Future of Industry 4.0, Quality Management of the Future, Supply Chain Management, Digital Product Development and Sustainability Management are among the topics planned. As in 2019, the Texprocess Forum program will be organized by DTB - Dialog Textil-Bekleidung e.V. and VDMA TFL.

Both forums are free of charge. The presentations will be simultaneously translated DE/EN or EN/DE. Following the Techtextil Forum and Texprocess Forum, the presentations will also be made available "on demand" on the Techtextil and Texprocess Digital Extension platform.

Techtextil Innovation Award and Texprocess Innovation Award
A special highlight is the public presentation of the Techtextil or Texprocess Innovation Awards on 21 June 2022 in hall 9.0. Progressive approaches as well as new and further developments in the field of technical textiles and textile processing will be the focus. Textile innovations selected by an international jury of experts will be awarded and presented on all four days of the trade fair in hall 9.1 (Techtextil) or 9.0 (Texprocess). This is where the future of the textile industry comes together with promising and pioneering innovations.

Sustainability in focus
With Sustainability@Techtextil and Sustainability@Texprocess, visitors can recognize companies with sustainable products and approaches at first glance. Exhibitors who have successfully passed a review by an international independent jury are thus identified at the trade fairs. Techtextil and Texprocess thereby support the sustainable development of the textile industry. Innovative and sustainable fibers, yarns and fabrics as well as progressive processes, new cutting technologies, water-saving dyeing processes and other future-oriented processing technologies are thus highlighted.

Digital Extension: Experience Techtextil and Texprocess on site and digitally
For the first time, visitors can discover Techtextil and Texprocess virtually and benefit from new formats and exchange opportunities. Digital exhibitor profiles, matchmaking offers, 1-to-1 video calls or web sessions complement the on-site visit. Messe Frankfurt formats such as conferences or panel discussions are also digitally extended and can be accessed on demand afterwards. The Digital Extension of Techtextil and Texprocess is available to visitors free of charge from 13 June to 8 July.

The event Techtextil & Texprocess will be held from 21 to 24 June 2022.