Textination Newsline

• The cultivation of cotton is to be expanded

Pakistan's textile industry has lost competitiveness. Investments in new textile technology are necessary. Exports of German machinery increase.

The textile industry is Pakistan's most important industrial sector. In Pakistan's fiscal year 2017/18 (July 1st 2017 to June 30th 2018), the textile industry accounted for 8.5 percent of gross domestic product. The sector accounted for about a quarter of the total industrial value added. It is by far the country's most important export sector. Textile exports accounted for 58 percent of total exports in 2017/18.

However, the international competitiveness of the sector is currently declining. This trend should turn around. Prime Minister Imran Khan met with representatives of the textile industry at the end of January 2019. Economic policy aims to expand and modernize the textile industry. Production costs are to be reduced and productivity increased. In addition, quality improvements, production expansions and higher added value are necessary.

The textile industry's value chain begins with around 1,300 companies that are ginning, process and bale raw cotton. In addition to the demand for cotton, the demand for synthetic fibers is also increasing, although there are only three manufacturers of polyester fibers in Pakistan to date.

The number of spinning mills is estimated at 517 in 2017 and the number of weaving mills at 124 large and 425 medium-sized and small mills. Ten large and 625 medium-sized and small companies process fabrics. Towels were produced by about 400 companies, knitted fabrics by 2,500 companies. Clothing made of woven fabrics was supplied by 50 large factories and 2,500 medium-sized and small factories.

Export transactions stagnate
Pakistan's textile exports grew by 8.7 percent to USD 13.5 billion in 2017/18. This level was already reached in 2013/14 and 2014/15. Textile exports in the first seven months of fiscal year 2018/19 (July 18th to January 19th) increased slightly by 1.2 percent year-on-year to US$ 7.8 billion.

^*) Fiscal years (July to June)

Sources: All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA); Pakistan Bureau of Statistics; Textile Commissioner's Organization

The All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) aims to increase exports to USD 28 billion by 2023/24. This requires consistent state support and long-term export promotion, according to the association.

The leading foreign customer is the USA. Other important customers include the United Kingdom, Germany and Spain. In 2017 and 2018, Germany imported textile materials and goods worth EUR 1 billion from Pakistan.

Machine imports still declining
Imports of textile machinery in 2013/14 amounted still to USD 599 million. In the following three years it was USD 449 million (2014/15), USD 462 million (2015/16) and USD 557 million (2016/17). Imports are not currently showing an upward trend despite the need for modernization. According to the statistics authority, they fell by 42 per cent to USD 325 million in 2017/18. There are still no signs of a recovery in 2018/19 either.

Sources: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics, UN Comtrade

Business trip to the fifth largest customer of German spinning technology
According to calculations by the German Engineering Federation (VDMA), German textile machinery exports to Pakistan increased to EUR 53 million in 2017. The previous year's figure was EUR 48 million, EUR 39 million of which was attributable to spinning machines.

A business trip of German companies from the textile machinery and accessories sectors will take place to Karachi and Lahore from November 11th to 15th 2019. The Federal Ministry of Economics and Energy will promote and the company SBS Systems for Business Solution will organize the trip (contact: Thomas Nytsch, e-mail: thomasnytsch@sbs-business.com).

Cotton production to be strongly increased
The local cotton production is the base of the textile industry. After India, China and the USA, Pakistan is the fourth largest cotton producer, followed by Brazil and Uzbekistan. Without an increase in local crop yields, the growth of the textile industry is limited. Increased imports of cotton would further reduce the industry's struggling international competitiveness.

In an international comparison, the country is one of the cotton producers with the lowest yields per hectare. Australia, Turkey, China and Brazil form the leading group with about 1,600 to 1,700 kilograms per hectare. Pakistan only reaches 600 to 800 kilograms.

¹⁾ one bale = 170 ^{kilograms, 2)} Forecast
Source: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics; research by Germany Trade & Invest

The government has set a production target of around 15 million bales for 2019/20. APTMA believes an increase to 20 million bales is possible by 2023/24. The association assumes that there will be about 2,800 hectares of cultivated land and an increase in yields per hectare to 1,200 kilograms.

Problems with the supply of cotton

Baumwolle wird vor allem in den Provinzen Punjab und Sindh angebaut. Die Baumwollproduktion erreichte 2014/15 noch rund 14 Millionen Ballen. Die Ernte fiel 2015/16 auf unter 10 Millionen und lag 2017/18 bei 12 Millionen Ballen. Die Produktion ist 2018/19 wieder gesunken, ein Wert von etwa 11 Millionen Ballen wird prognostiziert. Als Gründe werden unter anderem Wassermangel, eine schlechte Qualität der Pflanzenschutzmittel und minderwertiges Saatgut genannt. Zudem sei die finanzielle und regulatorische Unterstützung der Regierung unzureichend, so Branchenvertreter.

The local supply could therefore no longer cover the annual cotton demand of the textile industry of 15 to 16 million bales in recent years. Textile manufacturers therefore imported cotton mainly from India and China, about 3 million to 4 million bales a year. However, imports from India have been stopped since February 2019. The background to this is the political tensions and recent military conflicts between the two states.

• Projects worth USD 52 million planned

Tashkent (GTAI) - Uzbekistan wants to become an international player in the shoe and leather industry. The market offers foreign companies a lot of potential for cooperation.

The Government of Uzbekistan has adopted a new initiative for the modernization and expansion of the leather, footwear, leather goods and fur industries. It is aimed at increasing efficiency and expanding production as well as accelerating integration into the international market. Producers are focusing primarily on Russia and Kazakhstan, but also on Western markets such as France. Foreign companies are welcome to participate in the planned projects. In the long term, value chains are to be created, clusters established and exports promoted.

Cooperation with Uzbek companies are possible in the production of leather goods, passive contract finishing, supply of equipment, auxiliary materials and chemicals to companies or in the trade with footwear, leather and fur goods. There are plenty of high-quality raw materials and a large potential of available and motivated workers.

The framework conditions for companies in Uzbekistan have improved noticeably. Labor and energy costs are low. In 2017, the government initiated economic liberalization and opening of the country. Uzbekistan wants to more than double its shoe exports by 2020. In 2017 Uzbek manufacturers sold shoes worth USD 150 million abroad.

Foreign investors are planning new projects
The O´zcharmsanoat's key 2019 investment program lists projects valued at USD 52 million. In addition, there are other projects which have not yet been included in the program due to ongoing coordination with potential foreign investors or which are planned in companies that operate outside O´zcharmsanoat.
An overview of current and planned projects for the development of the leather, shoe, leather goods and fur industry in Uzbekistan can be downloaded here.

Association O´zcharmsanoat is the main contact partner
The Association of the Leather Industry O´zcharmsanoat acts on behalf of the state as the central regulator and coordinator of the sector. It was restructured in May 2018 and controls, among other things, investments and foreign trade. Almost all notable Uzbek players in the leather industry are active under its umbrella. These include 30 automated slaughterhouses (supplied by livestock farms), 63 tanneries, including pre-tanning facilities, 131 shoe manufacturers and 28 producers of other products, including fur products (as of June 30th 2018). It also operates 13 warehouses for the purchase of raw materials from private animal breeders.

The leather processing companies produce hard leather (foot and insole leather) and upper leather, mainly chrome leather goods and Russia leather. The annual raw material supply amounts to around nine million hides and five million skins. About two fifths of this volume is currently exported. Among the 252 companies, which are employing about 26,000 people, there are 47 companies with foreign capital participation as well as numerous purely private Uzbek companies.

Only about a dozen of the 131 shoe manufacturers, which are currently active at O´zcharmsanoat, employ 100 people or more. The development of efficient medium-sized structures in the sector is still in its infancy and is likely to gain momentum.

Government grants tax and tariff preferences for five years
The slaughterhouses and manufacturers of raw, semi-finished and finished goods as well as the new foreign trade company Uzcharmimpex will receive tax and customs relief. These apply to existing companies of the association O´zcharmsanoat until January 1st 2023. Newly established companies can benefit from the preferences for five years from the date of company foundation.
In detail, the following preferential conditions are granted:

• Exemption from the profit and wealth tax or the uniform tax levy for micro and small companies
• Exemption from compulsory contributions to earmarked central funds
• Exemption from import duties for the import of equipment, completion parts, raw materials and materials which cannot be procured in the country and are intended for production.
• Granting a 60-day deferment of payment of import duties (from the date of the customs declaration) for the import of all other equipment, completion parts, raw materials and supplies and other goods for production needs
• VAT exemption for imports of raw materials and intermediate products for the use in production and of equipment for footwear production

Uzcharmimpex imports equipment for Uzbek companies
The foreign trade company Uzcharmimpex is engaged both in the export of sector products and in the import of equipment, spare parts, auxiliary materials and chemicals. The list of imported capital goods includes butchery, cutting, slicer, splitting and shaping machines, vacuum dryers, electronic measuring instruments for leather surface measurement, sewing machines and footwear assembly equipment.

The industry modernization initiative also provides for the creation of an industry development fund. This is fed by a levy amounting to 5 percent of export earnings from chrome-tanned hides and skins that have not yet been dressed (wet blue). These funds are intended for investment projects, the granting of loan guarantees, the financing of ISO certifications, the promotion of trade fair participations and the promotion of training and further education.

Usbekistan doubles shoe production
According to the Association of the Leather Industry O´zcharmsanoat, about 40 million pairs of shoes were produced in Uzbekistan in 2017, including 17 million pairs of full and partial leather shoes. An output of 34.2 million pairs of leather shoes is planned for 2020. Then the leather production is expected to reach a volume of 1.3 billion square decimeters. For 2018, the association expects 1 billion square decimeters of leather. O´zcharmsanoat aims to increase its total exports to USD 480 million by 2020 and to USD 1 billion by 2025 (Actual 2017: USD 150 million).

The collapse of the Soviet Union, a failed privatization policy and a difficult business climate led to a breakdown in production in the mid-1990s to around 2009/2010. On average, manufacturers produced less than four million pairs of shoes a year. Previously, around 30 medium-sized manufacturers brought 50 million pairs of shoes onto the market each year. In addition, 2.4 million bags and 200,000 pairs of gloves were produced annually. After 2010, there was a start-up boom in the sector thanks to preferential tax arrangements for particularly small companies.

Contact address
O´zcharmsanoat uyushmasi (Association of the Uzbek Leather Industry)
Contact person Sardor Uktamovich Umurzakov, Chairman of the Management Board
109, Mustakillik ave., 100192 Tashkent/Uzbekistan
T +99871 267 58 47, 268 40 66
F +99871 268 40 66rais@uzcharm.uz, info@uzcharm.uz,
Directory of companies http://www.uzcharmexpo.uz/spravochnik
rais@uzcharm.uz, info@uzcharm.uz
http://www.uzcharm.uz

• Projects planned for USD 2.3 billion by 2020
• Doubling of exports of finished products strived

Tashkent (GTAI) - The textiles and clothing industry of Uzbekistan remains one of the most important investment and cooperation sectors for foreign companies. A new expansion program for the period 2017 to 2020 provides for the implementation of 140 projects. The expected inflow of capital to the industry in a value of up to USD 2.3 billion is planned to account for about half of the foreign investment.

The textile and clothing industry should be expanded more than ever into an important export part of the central Asian republic. The specific activities for the targeted doubling of exports by 2020 versus 2016 are listed in the presidential regulation "On the program of measures for the further development of the textile, clothing and tricot industry 2017 to 2020" of December 21st 2016.

Full domestic processing of cotton fibers strived

With an annual output of 3.4 million tons of raw cotton and 1.1 million tons of cotton fibers, Uzbekistan is one of the world's six largest cotton producers. The production of 25,800 tons of cocoons is also considerable high (an average figure for 2012 to 2015). In the first half of 2016 55% of the produced cotton fibers were further locally processed. According to the program this rate should rise to 100% by 2020. It is also planned to reduce the amount of cotton yarn in textile exports in favor of more refined cotton products. Yarn now stands for 53% of the value of exported finished textile products.

The plan is to expand the production of finished textile products until 2020 by 120%, including 170% of yarn, 200% of finished tricot fabrics, 240% of finished yarn and clothing and 270% of hosiery. The share of finished goods in the textile and clothing industry is expected to increase from 47.0 to 65.5% and in export from 42.0 to 70.0%. The program also includes measures to adapt the Uzbek sector norms and standards   to the common international standard rules.

Supply and cooperation opportunities for 140 individually planned projects

Up to USD 2.3 billion shall be invested in 140 expansion and renewal projects by 2020, including complexes with a full value chain. Commercial banks or their investment companies which are providing loans for the co-financing of the projects may, depending on the project, acquire up to 100% of the capital stock of the new or modernized enterprises.

The main contact partner for the projects is the public shareholder company O'zbekyengilsanoat.  It owns 380 textile, clothing and tricot companies, as well as some silk processors, among of them many joint ventures. The company is comparable to a branch of the Ministry of Industry. It stands for a large part of the output and export of the Uzbek textile and clothing industry (estimation for 2016: about USD 1 billion).

Its tasks include the coordination and participation in investment projects. For example, all projects involving O'zbekyengilsanoat companies are subject to a technical review by the scientific and technical advice of the shareholder company. Import contracts for the needs of the projects are also subject to a review.   

Wide preferences for investors

Projects are flanked by several stimuli up to 1st January 2020. The state grants tariff preferences for the import of equipment, complements and spare parts, an exemption from the profit and wealth tax as well as from the duty to the central road fund. Export-oriented manufacturers of finished cotton-, blended-  and silk-fabrics-, finished clothing and tricots, head coverings, stockings and textile gallantry goods will be freed from the mandatory exchange of the foreign exchange in Uzbekistan Sum. Imports of raw materials, auxiliaries and materials can be promoted with customs clearance extension of up to 60 days.

The new central foreign trade company Ustextilexport has been founded to act as a service provider for the needs of all country-based industry players, including small businesses. This applies both to the exploitation of foreign markets, the supply of already established trading houses for textiles and clothing abroad with Uzbek products as well as to the participation in the procurement of technologies and materials for the domestic textile and clothing industry.

The current goals for the expansion of the textile and clothing industry are all rather too ambitious. Medium-term industry programs have already been launched in previous years. Despite some reached progress, the results have been rather sparse. The output and the effectiveness of the production remained far behind the targets. Already in 2012, 407,000 tons of cotton yarn, 350 million square meters of cotton fabrics and 273 million pieces of clothing should have been produced. The for 2012 targeted exports of USD 1.5 billion were also missed in 2016 (a good USD 1.0 billion).

The reasons for this are complex. Too little has been invested so far in the modernization of the existing enterprises. The companies complain about bottlenecks in the provisioning of working capital, in the supply of energy and, above all, in the exchange of foreign exchange for the procurement of imports (spare parts, auxiliary materials, etc.). Another obstacle is the over-regulation of import and export transactions.

Nevertheless, the industry remains a profitable business field for foreign companies. In addition, the signs are good for improving the business environment in the country. After the new President Shawkat Mirsijojew took office in December 2016, a positive mood goes through the country. First regulations for more entrepreneurial freedoms have already been adopted. A whole bunch of further measures is in sight.

1) In addition to the textile and clothing industry, the light industry comprises the sectors of cotton ginning and production of leather goods / shoes;
2) About two-thirds of the output is attributable to the textile and clothing sector;
3) Investments in the sectors cotton ginning, carpets and leather / leather products are less than 10% of the annually in the light industry invested capital.

Source: State Statistics Committee, Tashkent

Contacts
GAK O´zbekyengilsanoat (Staatliche Aktionärsgesellschaft O´zbekyengilsanoat)
ul. Bobura 45, 100100 Taschkent/Republik Usbekistan
Contact personIlchom Haydarov, Vorsitzender der GAK O´zbekengilsanoat; Schochruch Rachimow, manager investment department
Tel.: 00998 71/239 17 11, -253 93 54, -239 17 11, -253 93 58 (administration for investment projects), Fax: -253 93 58, -56 04 (department fir investment)
E-Mail: info@engilsanoat.uz, info@legprom.uz, Internet: http://www.engilsanoat.uz, http://www.legprom.uz