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© ITM/TUD - Biomimetic fish fin with dielectric elastomer actors und fiber reinforcement.
08.11.2022

Funding for Fibre-Elastomer Composites: Intelligent materials for robotics and prostheses

  • Successful approval of the 2nd funding period of the DFG Research Training Group 2430 "Interactive fibre-elastomer composites"

Researchers based in Dresden are going to develop a completely new class of materials in which actuators and sensors are integrated directly into flexible fibre composites – contrary to the state of the art. To this end, the German Research Foundation (DFG) approved the 2nd phase of Research Training Group 2430 "Interactive Fibre-Elastomer Composites" at TU Dresden in cooperation with the Leibniz Institute of Polymer Research Dresden. The spokesperson is Professor Chokri Cherif from the Institute for Textile Machinery and High-Performance Textile Materials Technology (ITM) at TU Dresden. A total of 22 doctoral students will be supported in eleven interdisciplinary sub-projects over the next 4.5 years, in addition to material and project funding.
 

  • Successful approval of the 2nd funding period of the DFG Research Training Group 2430 "Interactive fibre-elastomer composites"

Researchers based in Dresden are going to develop a completely new class of materials in which actuators and sensors are integrated directly into flexible fibre composites – contrary to the state of the art. To this end, the German Research Foundation (DFG) approved the 2nd phase of Research Training Group 2430 "Interactive Fibre-Elastomer Composites" at TU Dresden in cooperation with the Leibniz Institute of Polymer Research Dresden. The spokesperson is Professor Chokri Cherif from the Institute for Textile Machinery and High-Performance Textile Materials Technology (ITM) at TU Dresden. A total of 22 doctoral students will be supported in eleven interdisciplinary sub-projects over the next 4.5 years, in addition to material and project funding.
 
As a result the simulation-based development of intelligent material combinations for so-called self-sufficient fibre composites shall be available. Actuators and sensors are already integrated into the structures and no longer placed subsequently, as it is actual the case. In the first funding phase, the important basis for the large two-dimensional deformations in soft, biomimetic structures were developed. The further funding by the DFG is a confirmation of the outstanding results achieved so far. Building on this, the second funding phase will focus on ionic and helical actuator-sensor concepts. Combined with intelligent design and control algorithms, self-sufficient, three-dimensionally deforming material systems will emerge. This will make these systems more robust, complex preforming patterns can be customised at the desired location - reversibly and contact-free.
 
Fibre composites are used increasingly in moving components due to their high specific stiffness and strengths as well as the possibility of tailoring these properties. By integrating adaptive functions into such materials, the need for subsequent actuator placement is eliminated and the robustness of the system is significantly improved. Actuators and sensors based on textiles, such as those being researched and developed at the ITM, are particularly promising in this respect, as they can be integrated directly into the fibre composites during the manufacturing process.

With their innovative properties, interactive fibre-elastomer composites are predestined for numerous fields of application in mechanical and vehicle engineering, robotics, architecture, orthotics and prosthetics: Examples include systems for precise gripping and transport processes (e.g. in hand prostheses, closures and deformable membranes) and components (e.g. trim tabs for land and water vehicles).

More information:
robot Fibers Composites Funding
Source:

TU Dresden: Institute for Textile Machinery and High Performance Textile Materials (ITM)

(c) Claudia Bitzer
05.01.2021

Telling good Stories - PR Challenges of the medium-sized Textile Industry

Interview with Claudia Bitzer, Owner Bitzer PR, Albstadt

The past year was not only a big economic challenge for many companies, but also in terms of communication - whether in advertising or in PR topics - new ground had to be broken. Contact restrictions up to a strict lockdown, the cancellation of many trade fairs, congresses or other event formats made it necessary to rethink.

Textination discussed it with Claudia Bitzer, owner of the PR agency of the same name in Albstadt, Baden-Württemberg. Her customers include medium-sized companies from the textile and clothing industry as well as machinery manufacturers, public clients and the media.

Interview with Claudia Bitzer, Owner Bitzer PR, Albstadt

The past year was not only a big economic challenge for many companies, but also in terms of communication - whether in advertising or in PR topics - new ground had to be broken. Contact restrictions up to a strict lockdown, the cancellation of many trade fairs, congresses or other event formats made it necessary to rethink.

Textination discussed it with Claudia Bitzer, owner of the PR agency of the same name in Albstadt, Baden-Württemberg. Her customers include medium-sized companies from the textile and clothing industry as well as machinery manufacturers, public clients and the media.

With your PR agency based in Albstadt, you have also been busy in the textile industry for a good 5 years. If you had to introduce yourself in 100 words to someone who doesn't know you: Why did you decide to become your own boss after working for an agency, and what distinguishes your work?
Actually, self-employment gave me a call: An acquaintance suggested that I take over the communication for his employer, a textile machine manufacturer in the Alb, as a freelancer. When I was on the phone, I had our ten-day-old son in my arms. I was also a PR consultant at Ketchum in Stuttgart. Because I was curious, I got to grips with the matter over the next few months. With success: The textile machines have turned out to be surprisingly tangible products, after all, they make the clothes that we wear on our bodies every day. From this my access to the textile industry developed, which I would call my home base today.

Because I serve various companies along the textile chain, I have an overall view of the industry and can offer overarching stories with different perspectives. I also have a weakness for complex, "dusty" topics, regardless of the industry. I can delve in them with devotion in order to present them vividly. That's why I would call myself a content specialist.

In addition to German, English, Spanish and French, you speak Swabian fluently. Why is it important to have regional roots when you work for export-oriented companies in the textile industry in Baden-Württemberg?
You got that about fluent Swabian from my website, right? (Laughs) But yes, it is very helpful if you can feel whether "gschwind" – Swabian for “pretty fast” - tolerates a delay or has to be dealt with immediately.

I think the Swabian is really important in terms of the mentality behind it. I grew up in the Alb, my father ran a medium-sized company of his own. I understand many things without a customer having to explain them to me.

For example, modesty in relation to one's own person. Especially in long-established family businesses, the owners play an important role. They bear a great responsibility, both in the company and at their location. Nevertheless, the focus is always on the entrepreneurial performance, the product that, manufactured somewhere in the Swabian province, can keep up with the German, European or global competition. That doesn't happen by itself, but requires courage, entrepreneurial spirit and a great deal of openness to new things, and that fascinates me. I also often notice that by the passion, that these leading family businesses bring with them, I am carried away.

Breaking new ground means being willing to make decisions, overcoming fears - and thus also having the courage to fail. Not every project can succeed. In retrospect, which entrepreneurial decision are you particularly glad to have made?
Apart from being self-employed? The first corona lockdown with home schooling and closed daycare centers was a big challenge. On the one hand, I was relieved that it became quieter on the customer side between the end of March and the beginning of June, otherwise it would not have been feasible either professionally or in terms of family. On the other hand, this silence scared me and I often asked myself whether self-employment was the right way to go.

In early summer, when the situation on all sides had stabilized somewhat, I tackled the problem head on: I looked for co-working spaces and took extensive further training in online marketing. Being honest, of course, these were business decisions. Fortunately, they are already paying off, even if I may sit alone in the office for now.

Is there any work you are particularly proud of? Which story moved you beyond normal and which thematic challenges do you love?
One project that I fondly remember is the communication referring to a repdigit anniversary one of my clients was celebrating. For this, I first put 111 years of the company’s history down on paper in weeks, no, months of archive work. Because I had delved so deeply into the subject, I came up with many ideas for the messages of the anniversary celebration. Fortunately, the client was quickly convinced. At some point we had a signet, a slogan and a really good story for the anniversary. Incidentally, we still benefit from the numerous proof points we worked out for the occasion in our product and corporate communications today.

In addition, the project has naturally deepened the relationship with this client. I also work closely with the advertising agency that accompanied the anniversary communication. I consider such long-term partnerships as a great asset.

Have the messages you want or need to communicate for your clients changed in Corona times? And what was the focus of your work in 2020?
Unsurprisingly, the focus of work in 2020 was on online communication. For almost all of my customers we will start planning and implementing new measures in this area in the coming year.

As for the messages, little has altered. This is certainly due to the fact that the meta-topics have remained the same. Take sustainability, definitely a long-running favorite in the textile industry, and the sub-topic regionality. In contrast to previous crises, the Corona pandemic has not sidelined these approaches, but intensified them because it has shown us how dependent we are on production abroad. The same applies to the issues of transparency and quality.

Precisely because the themes have stayed the same, the crucial part for me is to find a unique story within these permanent themes so as not to disappear into the big river. That requires empathy, creativity - and a good portion of diligence.

Moving away from the simple advertising message to storytelling - what recommendation would you give medium-sized companies in general regarding their communication for the coming year? Are there any special features that the textile industry in particular should consider?
I think that will go in the direction of "We are still there, and even stronger than before". After all, the crisis demanded a lot from everyone. But it is always a productive phase, because when it comes to a head, it forces us to develop further that otherwise would not have been initiated or at least would have been initiated later. Therefore, it can represent a turning point, definitely for the better.

Take digitization, which is the most obvious approach: the crisis has given rise to a boost in this area; the online shop was or is to be expanded, the service is to become more digital.

Apart from that, there are certain individual changes in every company that the crisis has brought about. You can have the courage to name and tell them, because these are stories that interest everyone.

Goodbye Facebook - good morning TikTok. Which social media platforms do you recommend to your clients and under what conditions should medium-sized companies get involved?
TikTok has so far been more of a topic that I discuss with my daughter, who is almost 12 years old. But seriously: I recently read in a study published by Hootsuite that at the beginning of 2020, less than ten percent of Germans were using TikTok. On Facebook, the user share is still over 60 percent. For that reason alone, we shouldn't simply dismiss Facebook.

When I discuss the topic of social media with my clients, it is important for me not to think from the channels. Sure, it's tempting, but other questions should be asked at the beginning: What is the long-term goal of the social media activities? What resources are available - and what budgets? By now it is well known that social media is an extensive field of activity in its own right, which ties up corresponding resources. In medium-sized businesses, where I rarely have access to a multi-headed marketing team, a solid strategy is the be-all and end-all. It must be very, very clear which target groups are to be addressed. Then I can talk about channels and choose the most important ones. This almost certainly includes LinkedIn and Xing, as well as Instagram and Facebook, the latter especially in an international environment. By the way, the evaluation is just as important, it tends to fall behind. The relationship between measured values and corporate goals is anything but trivial.

Trade fairs, events, press conferences and meetings - these have almost completely fallen by the wayside in 2020. How important do you consider face-to-face communication to be in the long term, and which channels and measures do you recommend to your customers to compensate for these losses?
Face-to-face contact remains important! Of course, we all realised last year that not every event has to be a face-to-face event. A video conference saves time and money and, with the right discipline, can be just as effective as a face-to-face meeting. Many service cases can also be solved by video telephony, no one has to travel around. I am therefore convinced that we will not return to the meeting in person culture we had before Corona, even if this will be possible again at some point.

That's why I advise my clients to take advantage of the digital opportunities that are opening up everywhere. At the moment, everyone is still a beginner, you can only learn. Take virtual trade fairs: This is a fundamentally different approach than the classic presence fair. There is no need for a large trade fair team that is ready from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. There are no press appointments either. It is much more important to contact the visitors directly, i.e., to collect leads, to group the visitors and to stay in touch with them after the event by providing them with tailor-made content. Speaking of content: at the latest with such online events, it becomes clear how diverse content must be prepared. To pick up customers in the virtual space, you need graphics, videos, animations and much more.

Nevertheless, it will not work without direct, physical contact. I remain convinced that people buy from people. Video conferences work particularly well when the participants already know each other from real life. And the textile industry in particular thrives on haptics. I can never feel a yarn or a fabric digitally. Nor can I feel the production speed of a machine. With every revolution there is a slight breeze. You can't get that digitally.

 

The interview was conducted by Ines Chucholowius, CEO Textination GmbH

Foto: Pixabay
08.05.2018

IN INDONESIA DEMAND FOR TEXTILE MACHINERY STAGNATING

  • Clothing exports stagnate
  • Shoe production becomes more important
  • Investment in modern technology necessary

Bonn (GTAI) - The Indonesian textile industry faces strong regional competition. Since their demand for machinery and clothing exports peaked about five years ago, the industry's exports have stagnated. Nevertheless, the archipelago is important for international market participants at least as a second location alongside the major producing countries. In the meantime, the country has developed into an important shoe manufacturer and is further expanding its production capacities.

  • Clothing exports stagnate
  • Shoe production becomes more important
  • Investment in modern technology necessary

Bonn (GTAI) - The Indonesian textile industry faces strong regional competition. Since their demand for machinery and clothing exports peaked about five years ago, the industry's exports have stagnated. Nevertheless, the archipelago is important for international market participants at least as a second location alongside the major producing countries. In the meantime, the country has developed into an important shoe manufacturer and is further expanding its production capacities.

Indonesia is one of the top 15 clothing exporters. Over the past decades, the archipelago has continuously increased its production and thus created a growing demand for textile machinery. But the market has been stagnating for five years: exports are at around USD 7.5 billion per year, and imports of textile machinery have fallen from USD 1 billion per year to only around 800 million US dollars.

The most important supplier of textile machinery is the PR China, which has expanded its import share to around 30 percent in recent years and displaced Japan from first place. According to Indonesian import statistics, the German delivery ratio fluctuates by 10 percent.

The Indonesian textile association API cites the lower demand for clothing, especially from the USA and Europe, as the reason for the weak export development. About half of industry exports goes to North America. The largest customers are Japan, Germany, South Korea and the United Kingdom. What the association does not say: Bangladesh, Vietnam, India, Cambodia and Myanmar have all significantly increased their clothing exports in the past five years.

Indonesia's import of textile machinery *) (in USD million)
2007 360.5
2008 580.9
2009 339.9
2010 641.1
2011 952.1
2012 1.021.7
2013 973.8
2014 940.2
2015 804.3
2016 822.9

*) SITC 724
Source: UN Comtrade

Shorter production cycles
Indonesia's textile companies must therefore invest in order to remain competitive. Even though, according to API, more than half of the member companies are already technologically advanced, many market participants still have an outdated machinery. And especially against the background of fiercer competitive conditions, this is a decisive disadvantage. According to the association, larger fashion chains insist on ever shorter delivery times. Where the producers used to have three months, today it is only three weeks.

Regional competition is also a problem for manufacturers. The archipelago has good conditions for a labor-intensive industry such as the textile industry. Wages are low - outside the conurbations - and the labor supply is inexhaustible (also because many men work as sewers in the factories). Nevertheless, the country has not yet managed to become serious competition for the main export countries of cheap mass-produced goods.

Indonesia's import of textile machinery by supplier countries *) (in USD million; Change in % compared to previous year)
  2014 2015 2016 Change
PR China 279.4 269.2 524.7 -5.4
Taiwan 79.7 86.8 98.3 13.2
Germany 104.5 68.4 93.6 36.8
Japan 163.7 91.3 85.1 -6.8
Korean Rep. 60.5 65.8 57.0 -13.4
India 48.3 43.1 42.6 -1.2
Singapur 37.1 33.4 41.3 23.7
Italy 47.1 39.1 36.3 -7.2

*) SITC 724
Source: UN Comtrade

The archipelago also has locational disadvantages: it is further away from the European sales markets than other manufacturing countries and has a greater distance to China also, which, due to the high wage increases, is increasingly relocating its clothing production to its immediate neighbors. Moreover, in Indonesia, which is comparatively wealthy due to its large raw material exports, the minimum wages of India, Cambodia, Bangladesh or Myanmar cannot be undercut.

Asia's top clothing exporters 1) (USD billion;
change 2016 compared to 2011 in %)
  2011 2016 Change
PR China 153.7 158.2 2.9
Bangladesh 19.2 29.5** 53.6
Vietnam 13.1 22.9** 74.8
India 14.7 17.9 21.8
Indonesia 8.0 7.5 -7.1
Cambodia 4.0 6.6** 65.0

1) SITC 84; 2) Mirror statistics of partner countries
Source: UN Comtrade

Investments at previous year's level
After all, Indonesia has managed to become an important second location for international apparel companies, mitigating risks in major manufacturing countries. Most of the manufacturers are located in populous Java. For the government, further expansion of the industry is important in order to bring the large number of unskilled workers to work.

According to the latest available data from the Federal Statistical Office (BPS), the number of employees in the roughly 2,600 medium and large companies in the sector has increased from 470,000 (2008) to 550,000 (2014). In addition, there are just under 210,000 workers in small and micro companies (2015), most of whom are one- or two-person businesses.

The BKPM investment agency reports FDI of USD 184 million for the first half of 2017 for 494 projects. This corresponds almost exactly to the sum of the same period of the previous year. For the full year of 2016, USD 321 million of FDI had flowed into the sector.

Shoe manufacturers expand capacities
The domestic footwear industry is developing far more dynamically than the textile industry. Indonesia has become the third most important exporter in terms of cheap mass production in a few years, but it is far behind China and Vietnam. After all, the corresponding exports between 2011 and 2016 have steadily increased from USD 3.3 billion to USD 4.6 billion.

Asia's most important footwear exporters 1 (in USD bn, change 2016 compared to 2015 in %)
  2011 2016 Change
PR China 41.7 47.2 13.1
Vietnam 6.7 13.0** 93.5
Indonesia 3.3 4.6 40.5
India 2.1 2.7 31.4

1) SITC 82; 2) General Statistics Office of Vietnam
Source: UN Comtrade

And the signs are still on expansion: In the first six months of 2017, the leather and footwear sector had FDI of USD 187 million, a third more than in the total year 2016. Domestic market participants are also expanding. The Indonesian manufacturer SCI is currently building a new production facility in the central Javanese Salatiga, near the port city of Semarang. It should be completed in October. In the first phase 300,000 to 500,000 pairs of shoes per year could be produced, the maximum capacity is 1 million pairs.
 

Source:

Frank Malerius, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

CZECH TEXTILE INDUSTRY CONTINUES ITS UPSWING © tokamuwi / pixelio.de
22.08.2017

CZECH TEXTILE INDUSTRY CONTINUES ITS UPSWING

  • Sales are increasing since four years
  • Developing of up new markets abroad

Prague (GTAI) - Czech textile and clothing manufacturers are among the winners of the good economic situation. The trend towards domestic products and the rising purchasing power are inspiring the companies. At the same time they benefit from a growing demand from abroad. According to the association ATOK the turnover of the sector rose to Kc 53,5 billion (just under EUR 2 billion) in 2016. It was the fourth year of growth in a row.

  • Sales are increasing since four years
  • Developing of up new markets abroad

Prague (GTAI) - Czech textile and clothing manufacturers are among the winners of the good economic situation. The trend towards domestic products and the rising purchasing power are inspiring the companies. At the same time they benefit from a growing demand from abroad. According to the association ATOK the turnover of the sector rose to Kc 53,5 billion (just under EUR 2 billion) in 2016. It was the fourth year of growth in a row.

An important growth driver of the Czech textile industry is the automotive sector. The largest sales are achieved with technical textiles, and these are mostly used in the over 1.3 million passenger cars, which are rolling in the Czech Republic off the assembly lines every year. The German automotive supplier Borgers is therefore the second largest textile manufacturer in the country. The company produces textile trims for trunks, passenger compartments or underfloor at four locations in the Plzen region. About 200,000 parts leave the factory every day for VW, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Bentley and Rolls Royce. The largest textile company in 2016 was the company Juta with productions of geotextiles, insulation materials and packaging material.

The positive dynamism of textile manufacturers is continuing in 2017. According to statistics from January to May the production index rose by 3% and the value of new orders even rose by 5%. On the other hand the garment manufacturers have to announce sales reductions following the strong year before. Future growth could be curbed by rising wages, the appreciation of the national currency and a lack of staff.

Sales development of the Czech textile and clothing industry
Year Sales in Mrd. Kc .thereof textiles in Kc bn. .thereof Clothing in Kc bn. Change total sales in comparison to  previous year  in %
2013 47.1 40.7 6.4 2.6
2014 51.0 44.6 6.4 8.3
2015 52.4 45.4 7.0 2.7
2016 53.5 46.2 7.3 2.1

Sources: Association of the Textile, Garment and Leather Industry (ATOK), Calculations by Germany Trade & Invest

Even more dynamically than the sector's profits the foreign trade has developed in 2016. Since the Czech Republic is being used as a transit and logistics location by international trading companies, the volume of exports is significantly higher than the total turnover of the domestic manufacturers. According to the ATOK association, in 2016 textiles were exported for Kc 63.8 billion (EUR 2.36 billion) and clothing for Kc 47.2 billion (EUR 1.74 billion). This was an increase of 5% for textiles and 31% for clothing. Import of textiles rose by 6% to Ks 59.3 billion (EUR 2.19 billion), import of garment rose by 20% to Kc 67.9 billion (EUR 2.51 billion).

This has somewhat reduced the trade deficit in clothing. In the major fashion chains however foreign goods still dominate. Czech vendors have little chance of coming to the shelves and taking part in the fast fashion cycles and fast fashion changes. The association ATOK estimates that they have a market share of a maximum of 20% in clothing retailing. As a result, domestic manufacturers are increasingly focusing on direct selling, either via internet shops or through their own sales outlets. They also strengthen the building of their own brands, after having carried out commission work for international fashion groups for many years. Customized products are in the trend also. Some companies that have hitherto mainly served the home market are now looking increasingly at foreign markets. The swimwear and underwear producer Timo from Litomerice, for example, wants to supply to Germany also in the future, reported by the economic newspaper Hospodarske noviny.

Textile companies invest more and more abroad
The East Bohemian specialist for bathroom textiles, Grund, already has a sales company in Lower Saxony. The carpet manufacturer is now planning to build a factory in the south of the USA and intends to invest more than USD 1 million. Silon from South Bohemia, which is one of the largest manufacturers of polyester fibers in Europe, is building a manufacturing plant for plastic compounding in the USA in order to reduce the delivery time for raw materials and to be closer to the customer. There are interesting developments in the research area. The institute VUTS from Liberec, has developed, together with Taiwanese scientists, a pneumatic loom that can produce 3D fabrics made of high-strength polyester silk. The material can be used for boat building or flood protection. The machine should be presented for the first time at a trade fair in 2019. Until then the textile manufacturer Veba from Broumov wants to have developed a new 3D fabric. It is intended to reinforce matrices.

After the extra economy in 2015 due to the last-time levy of EU funds from the old funding period, investments in the textile industry had shrunk in 2016. According to the Ministry of Economic Affairs the manufacturers invested some Kc 2.78 billion (around EUR 100 million), a sixth less than in the previous year. On the other hand, investments in the garment sector were up by a quarter to over Kc 850 million (around EUR 31 million). The development was also reflected in the import figures for textile machines. At the beginning of the year 2017 imports rose again in some product groups, thus opening up sales opportunities for finishing manufacturers. German suppliers account for roughly half of the machinery supply for the textile industry.

In April 2017 the Moravian nonwoven fabric manufacturer Retex had issued a tender for a production plant for over EUR 7 million. In Zatec near Usti nad Labem Unifrax wants to build a production plant for silicate fabrics. Juta is currently investing around EUR 13 million in the production of grids and plans to get the plant expansion at Dvur Kralove into operation in autumn 2017. The Japanese Toray Textiles is expanding its factory for airbag fabrics and printing plates in Prostejov over the next four years. The North Moravian supplier of outdoor clothing, Tilak, is also expanding its production facilities in Sumperk.

Import of selected textile machines to the Czech Republic (EUR 1,000)
Maschinengruppe / HS-Position 2015 2016 January to May 2017 Change*)
Jet-spinning machines / 8444 15,369 5,502 842 -81.2
.thereof from Germany 9,829 4,509 20 -99.5
Spinning machines / 8445 8,838 15,858 1,922 -51.1
.thereof from Germany 5,017 6,743 164 -91.1
Weaving looms/ 8446 12,860 4,277 1,882 -17.5
.thereof from Germany 2,247 687 36 n.a.
Knitting machines / 8447 11,965 6,737 2,672 14.7
.thereof from Germany 6,092 1,979 1,632 54.5
Auxiliary machines / 8448 73,358 88,360 42,830 27.9
.thereof from Germany 52,601 54,897 26,823 16.2
Nonwoven and felt machines 19,628 2,676 846 -45.8
.thereof from Germany 6,741 1,313 245 -79.0
Cleaning, dying and pressing machines / 8451 108,080 105,410 44,762 26.1
.thereof from Germany 50,325 47,580 17,714 1.7
Sewing machines / 8452 17,895 20,056 8,172 10.1
.thereof from Germany 6,340 6,353 2,081 -12.2
Machines for fur, leather processing or shoe production / 8453 4,386 2,626 1,056 12.9
.thereof from Germany 347 198 68 25.9
Total 272.379 251,501 104,984 14.2
.thereof from Germany 139.540 124.260 48,783 -4.0

Source: Czech Statistical Office

 

Central America imports more textile machinery © Oliver Brunner/pixelio.de
07.03.2017

CENTRAL AMERICA IMPORTS MORE TEXTILE MACHINERY

  • Large-scale projects in Honduras
  • More vertical integration strived

Following the US President's decree against the Pacific Pact TPP, Central America's textile and clothing industry counts for its main market on further tariff advantages compared to the Asian competition. Next to the so far dominating subcontracting work the sector wants to intensify the production of pre-products, what requires more and better textile machinery for this purpose. Guatemala is already investing, while Nicaragua will continue to stay mainly with sewing and tailoring. The largest technology market was lately El Salvador.

  • Large-scale projects in Honduras
  • More vertical integration strived

Following the US President's decree against the Pacific Pact TPP, Central America's textile and clothing industry counts for its main market on further tariff advantages compared to the Asian competition. Next to the so far dominating subcontracting work the sector wants to intensify the production of pre-products, what requires more and better textile machinery for this purpose. Guatemala is already investing, while Nicaragua will continue to stay mainly with sewing and tailoring. The largest technology market was lately El Salvador.

Honduras wants to expand its textile and clothing industry strongly. The aim of the "20/20" program is to significantly increase exports and with it new jobs. One focus should be the production of sportswear and other synthetic clothing, including pre-products. Central America's "largest factory for polyester yarn" (DTY) went into construction at the end of January 2017 in Choloma. It is expected to cost USD 73 million and produce 25,000 tons per year. According to Mario Canahuati, a Honduran shareholder of the investor United Textiles of America, an additional USD 120 million factory for synthetic materials and garments should be added later.

Observers believe the sector's expansion plans are realistic because it can stem the relatively large investment in the synthetic fiber production. In the Honduran textile industry there are many joint ventures with US partners which can raise capital in North America. In the other countries of the region the sector companies are more strongly medium-sized. They are depending more on the local capital market with its high interest rates and restrictive banks.

Honduras, Guatemala and El Salvador invest

According to a machine representative the textile manufacturers in Guatemala will invest more in dyeing machines in order to become more independent from suppliers and keep the quality better under control. According to Invest in Guatemala the sector there delivers higher quality end products than the competition from El Salvador and Honduras, on the US market clothing from Guatemalan is almost twice as expensive.

The textile industry in Guatemala and El Salvador is more vertically integrated than in Honduras: it produces relatively quite a lot of yarn and fabrics by itself and is less dependent of the typical subcontracting (Maquila) method, which only imports textiles and re-exports them as finished clothing. Honduras mainly processes imported synthetic fiber yarns, which the country - like El Salvador - manufactures partly by itself.

The best market in Central America for a large German textile machine manufacturer is currently El Salvador, which imports the most technology in the region. The customers are quite innovative and work more concept orientated, which makes the cooperation easier. Due to increased yarn prices, some weaving companies are currently investing in spinning machines, a machinery salesman says. According to the Central America Strategic Sourcing Review, more than 20% of the factories are "vertically integrated".

In the opinion of machine representatives, Nicaragua is still concentrating on subcontracting. Investors are reluctant to spend larger sums which would be needed for modern textile  manufacturing. In addition there is a lack of good specialists for the foreseeable future, the level of training is only sufficient for easier sewing and clothing manufacturing. In Panama the textile industry does not play a nameable role; in Costa Rica, which is also relatively prosperous, the sector is larger, but exports little.

Central America’s textile and clothing industry

Indicator Guatemala Honduras El Salvador Nicaragua
Number of manufacturers 215 125
(2015)
n.a. n.a.
Employees (direct) 90,000 (2013) 99,100
(2015)
75,000
(estimation)
70,000
(estimation, 2014)
Clothing exports to the USA
(2016, bn. US$) *)
1,380 2,554 1,941 1,472
Production of synthetic fibres
(2016, 1,000 t)
0 26,5 17,2 0
Installed capacity (2015, 1,000 Units)
Spindles 153 n.a. 250 40
OE-Rotors 21 n.a. 1.4 n.a.
Weaving looms 3.9 n.a. 3.2 0.65

*) Costa Rica 29 Mio.; Clothing = almost total industry exports; 80% of exports are for the US; data from US import authority. Source: ITMF; national associations and authorities; Press

Central America Textile companies are usually located in a free zone and produce for export, mainly the US. In Honduras, according to a study by the Central Bank, Maquila - with textile / clothing as the largest segment - produced 36% of pre-products for other contractors and 64% of final products, which in turn were exported up to 99%.

US protectionism could even help

The protectionism, which is announced in the main market USA, develops some optimism to Central America's textile industry. As listed in “Honduras 20/20” it now can deliver more cheaply to the US than the competition from China or Vietnam because of existing trade agreements. At an - now not targeted anymore - omission of cutting US customs duties for Vietnam, it would be much more expensive. In addition, a garment factory in Honduras is able to deliver to the US in two days, a delivery from Vietnam requires twenty days. In the today so very fast fashion world, this is the main reason why Wal-Mart & Co. are ordering massive masses in Central America.

Until now, Central America has been supplying mainly cheap clothing for the US mass market, but, as a German machinery exporter is hoping, they will try to settle themselves against the Asian competition with higher valuable goods. For this the Central American manufacturers would need better technology, which preferable comes from Europe. In the view of other representatives Central America will need in future productive machines that are cheap at the same time. Chinese machines with European components are a big competition.

Machinery imports rising

Central America Imports of textile machinery and sewing machines have risen by one-third to over USD 130 million between 2013 and 2015. In addition, according to the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), Honduras has imported 170 round knitting machines in 2014 and 2015, Guatemala only 26, El Salvador 23 and Nicaragua ten. Germany was the fifth most important delivery country. Leading supplier was the USA. For Guatemala, with its many Korean-owned textile companies, Korea (Rep) was the main supplier.According to ITMF, Central America will shift its investments somewhat away from the clothing area towards the textile sector. Already today, the representative of a German manufacturer says: "We are currently selling very well in Mexico and Central America." 

Central America‘s1) imports of textile machinery (bn. US$) 2)

SITC Product group /Country / Country of delivery 2013 2014 2015 20163)
  total 97.5 116.0 131.6 70.8
72472) Machines for washing, drying, dying a.o. 25.7 27.9 35.4 9.4
724.35 Other sewing machines 21.0 24.2 29.2 18.8
7245 Weaving looms and knitting machines 21.7 23.7 28.8 20.9
7244 Spinning machines 11.5 21.7 19.8 11.6
7246 Auxiliary machines 14.4 12.8 13.8 8.1
72492) Parts 3.1 5.7 4.6 2.0
  USA 32.5 33.4 27.9 12.7
  Italy 8.8 10.6 20.8 17.5
  China 9.1 12.1 15.4 6.6
  Korea (Rep.) 6.2 9.5 12.1 0.5
  Germany 9.6 4.0 10.9 6.9
  Japan 3.9 7.2 7.7 6.0
  El Salvador 48.5 55.4 70.9 70.8
724.35   12.9 16.4 20.5 18.8
7245   7.0 11.7 16.1 20.9
72472)   11.3 12.0 12.9 9.4
7244   6.5 5.1 11.2 11.6
7246   9.4 8.6 7.9 8.1
  Guatemala 28.9 32.6 44.8 n.a
72472)   5.3 6.2 12.4 n.a.
7245   8.9 8.3 11.2 n.a
7244   3.5 4.9 7.2 n.a
724.35   5.8 5.9 6.8 n.a
7246   4.4 3.7 5.5 n.a
  Costa Rica 13.9 21.3 10.2 n.a
72472)   5.2 5.0 5.7 n.a
7244   1.4 11.4 1.3 n.a
7245   5.1 3.0 1.2 n.a
724.35   1.4 1.2 1.2 n.a
  Panama 6.1 6.8 5.8 n.a
72472)   4.0 4.7 4.3 n.a

1) without Honduras and Nicaragua; 2) SITC 724, without household sewing machines, (724.33), household washing machines, (724.71), machines for dry-cleaning(724.72), leather machines(7248), parts for household washing machines; 3) El Salvador only
Source: UN Comtrade

PAKISTAN’S TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY HAS TO INVEST © Jerzy Sawluk / pixelio.de
07.06.2016

PAKISTAN’S TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY HAS TO INVEST

  • INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION INCREASES
  • COMPANIES HAVE TO MODERNIZE PRODUCTION AND INCREASE DEPTH OF PROCESSING

Dubai / Islamabad (GTAI) - Pakistan's textile and clothing industry has urgently to invest. The international competition has intensified. The companies need to modernize their technology and increase their processing depth. The country wants to get away from the production of simple fabrics and yarns. The GSP Plus agreement with the EU and an improvement in the security situation have improved the investment climate. In high-end machines Pakistan is dependent on imports. 

  • INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION INCREASES
  • COMPANIES HAVE TO MODERNIZE PRODUCTION AND INCREASE DEPTH OF PROCESSING

Dubai / Islamabad (GTAI) - Pakistan's textile and clothing industry has urgently to invest. The international competition has intensified. The companies need to modernize their technology and increase their processing depth. The country wants to get away from the production of simple fabrics and yarns. The GSP Plus agreement with the EU and an improvement in the security situation have improved the investment climate. In high-end machines Pakistan is dependent on imports. 

Pakistan's textile and clothing industry expects better sales opportunities abroad in the next few years, particularly with the European Union. Early 2014 Pakistan has received from the EU the GSP Plus status (Generalized System of Preferences) that allows the country to supply goods at a lower rate of duty or even with a completely duty exempt in the EU. Particularly the textile and clothing industry benefits from the agreement, as the sector provides almost 80% of Pakistan's exports to the EU. The government even hopes on additional exports for the sector worth USD 1 billion per year.

Following the latest available trade figures, Pakistan increased in 2014, the year in which the GSP Plus agreement came into force, its total exports of clothing by almost 10% to around USD 5 billion. Official figures of exports to the EU are not available. According to the foreign trade statistics, in any case exports to Germany have increased in clothing by 13% to almost USD 500 million, in textiles by 18% to USD 434 million and in footwear by 27% to USD 34 million.

Pakistan's export of textiles, clothing and footwear (USD million)
SITC Productgroup 2013 2014 Change 2014/2013
Export        
65 Textiles 9,341 9.077 -2,8
84 Clothing 4,549 4.991 9,7
85 Shoes 109 132 21,1
26 Textile Fibres 370 308 -16,8
..2631 Cotton 217 181 -16,7
Import        
65 Textiles 1,245 1.545 24,2
84 Clothing 68 86 26,0
85 Shoes 67 84 25,2
26 Textile Fibres 1,369 1.287 -6,0

Source: UN Comtrade

Demand for textile machinery rises
Market observers anticipate increased investments in machinery. A particular dynamic effort is expected in the demand for textile printing machines, dyeing machines, tenter frames and other finishing techniques. Positive for the investment climate will be the effect of the expected increase in textile exports to the EU and the improvement of the security situation. In recent years power shortages and a precarious security situation have inhibited the production and investment activity.

The market for textile machinery (SITC 724) grew significantly since 2014. In the country itself only relatively simple machines are being manufactured. High-end equipment is mostly imported. The import of textile machinery rose to USD 585 million in 2014, an increase of 17% compared to 2013.

Import of Textilmaschinen*)
Year Value (in Mio. US$)
2014 585
2013 498
2012 439
2011 488
2010 455
2009 217
2008 385

*) SITC 724, including pieces
Source: UN Comtrade

German machinery manufacturers are losing market share
The PR China has superseded Japan as the major supplier of textile machinery in 2014. In fact Japan was able to increase its deliveries vigorously (+ 23%), but the Chinese succeeded to get even higher gains (+ 41%). The suppliers from Switzerland and India have also increased their exports to Pakistan significantly. German machinery manufacturers however were not able to benefit from the increasing demand.
Import of textile machinery by main supplier countries (in USD million, change over previous year and supply share in %) *)
Land   2014 Veränderung 2014/2013 Anteil
VR China 145 40.7 24.8
Japan 139 22.6 23.7
Schweiz 75 55.2 12.8
Deutschland 71 -24.9 12.1
Italien 50 9.3 8.6
Indien 15 28.0 2.6
Gesamt 585 17.5 100

*) SITC 724, including pieces

Investments urgently needed
Competition from PR China, Bangladesh, India and Sri Lanka has intensified. Pakistan's textile industry needs to modernize and upgrade, to increase its productivity and the added value. Pakistan covers the entire value chain from fiber preparation from to the end product. Despite this well-position predominantly simple products are being produced. Only an estimated 40 companies are vertically integrated and cover the entire textile processing.
With an annual harvest of about 13 million bales Pakistan is the world's fourth largest cotton producer. In addition about 600.000 tons of synthetic fibers are being manufactured in the country. According to reports there are 21 manufacturers of filament yarn with a capacity of 100.000 t; the production is supported by a PTA plant with a capacity of 500.000 t.

Export of the textile industry by product group 07-01-2014 – 31-03-2015 (Changes compared to the same period of last year and in %)
Product Value (in Mio. US$) Change Share
Knitwear 1,792 7.5 18
Readymade Garment 1,548 8.5 15
Bed Wear 1,570 -2.4 15
Towels 580 1.8 6
Tent, Canvas, Tarpaulin 105 82.0 1
Made-ups (Other Textiles) 486 -0.5 5
Cotton Cloth 1,860 -26.5 18
Cotton Yarn 1,461 2.0 14
Raw Cotton 142 -9.4 1
Art-Silk& Synthetic Textile 274 -17.0 3
Other Textile Products 350 0.0 4
Summe 10,168 -1.6 100

Sources: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics; TMA - Towel Manufacturers Association

Yarn production has lost competitiveness
According to sector experts In the past decade yarn manufacturers made no larger investments to upgrade their production, although money would have been available for such investments.  The reason for that should have been the heavy competition from China, India and Bangladesch.  Ten years ago Pakistan used to be one of the most efficient yarn manufacturers worldwide. Because modernization investments failed to materialize, this technique applies as outdated in Pakistan today.

The companies complain about high production costs and are demanding more favorable electricity tariffs and protectionist measures against import competition. A negative effect on the production and the investment climate in the country also have the electricity shortages and the tense security Situation.

The textile sector in Pakistan is characterized by numerous large textile companies with quite a large number of small businesses opposite which mostly belong to the so-called informal sector. The informal sector, for example, includes small family companies or small productions, which are not taxable. The informal sector produces mainly simple products for the domestic market. It works with discarded equipment of the larger companies, imported used machinery or cheap equipment from China. The official statistics do not take the informal sector into account.

Import of textile machinery by product and top supplier countries (in USD thousands, change compared to the previous year in%)
SITC Productgroup 2013 2014 Veränd.
724.3 Sewing machines, from 18.508 31.034 67,7
  PR China 9.795 19.925 103,4
  Japan 2.596 3.694 42,3
  Vietnam 479 911 90,3
  Germany (Rank 5) 856 750 -12,4
724.4 Spinning and other machines for textile processing, from 255.311 258.348 1,2
  Japan 74.961 61.771 -17,6
  Switzerland 36.203 57.814 59,7
  Germany (Rank 3) 64.086 46.545 -27,4
724.5 Weaving machines, from 121.860 179.424 47,2
  Japan 29.997 68.090 127,0
  PR China 31.305 53.706 71,6
  Italy 6.666 11.275 69,1
  Germany (Rank 6) 5.290 6.097 15,2
724.6 Auxiliary machines, from 30.953 36.801 18,9
  PR China 8.797 11.935 35,7
  Germany (Rank 2) 6.429 4.880 -24,1
  Japan 2.055 3.614 75,9
724.7 Machines for dying, washing, drying, from 61.620 64.825 5,2
  PR China 9.855 12.455 26,4
  Italy 14.867 11.527 -22,5
   Germany (Rank 3) 16.652 11.494 -31,0
724.8 Machines for leather processing and footwear manufacturing, incl. parts, from 5.854 8.722 49,0
  Italy 3.674 4.985 35,7
  PR China 1.542 2.338 51,6
  Finland k.A 192 k.A.
  Germany (Rank 5) 29 140 381,6
724.9 Parts for textile machines, from 3.996 5.760 44,2
  PR China 2.107 2.854 35,5
  Germany (Rank 2) 617 669 8,4
  Italy 528 661 25,3