Textination Newsline

The University of Plymouth will work with Circular Flow to examine the scope for developing a UK neoprene recycling facility. A plan to develop the UK’s first wetsuit recycling facility is among eight new projects funded by Future Fibres Network Plus.

Many wetsuits are made from neoprene – but the UK currently has no way of recycling them, meaning more than 380 tonnes is burned or landfilled each year. The neoprene recycling project is one of the eight mini projects newly funded by the network.

Led by the University of Plymouth and working with industry partner Circular Flow Ltd, it will examine the scope for developing a UK neoprene recycling facility to help make the surfing and diving industry more circular or sustainable. Circular Flow already has a facility in Bulgaria, but establishing one in the UK – home to some of the world’s most popular surfing locations – would be a significant development.
Dr Kayleigh Wyles, Associate Professor in Psychology: “Our project will investigate the level of interest among UK businesses for returning end-of-life wetsuits and accessories to a UK facility where they can be turned into new and useful products. We also aim to understand consumers’ willingness to purchase and wear recycled neoprene products, and explore the logistics of developing a recycling facility.”

“Many of those who buy and wear wetsuits have a genuine interest in the environment, and therefore in the sustainability of these products. However, wetsuits are one of the hardest products to recycle and the possibility of opening a recycling facility in the UK is very exciting,” stated Emma Major-Mudge,
Head of Sales and Commercial Partnerships, Circular Flow
 
Dr Katie Major-Smith, a post-doctoral researcher involved in the project, added: Ultimately, we hope to promote circularity in the water sports industry and keep hundreds of tonnes of wetsuits out of landfill.

If the findings suggest there is sufficient support for a neoprene recycling facility, the team will develop an investment pack to share with funders to help build it.

Future Fibres Network Plus – which aims to bring environmental science into the heart of the UK fashion, clothing and textile sectors – is a network led by the University of Exeter, collaborating with the universities of Leeds, Huddersfield and Plymouth, University of the Arts London, and the UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT).

Through its flexible fund, Future Fibres Network Plus is investing a total of £1 million in the eight projects.

Those projects include another initiative being led by the University, in partnership with Plan B Recycling Technologies Ltd, centred around the fibre-to-fibre recycling potential of polyester.
Recycled polyester pellets are often of low quality due to contamination by other materials, and the new project will develop a pre-recycling treatment process to improve recycled polyester quality.
It will address barriers to fibre recycling, examine the levels of microfibre release during laundry, and create a knowledge repository to optimise recycling processes.

Future Fibres Network Plus sits within the Network Plus in Circular Fashion and Textiles, a collaboration of three sub-networks that seeks to understand and drive the fashion and textile industry towards sustainable and responsible practices. The Network Plus is part of the UKRI £15million Circular Fashion and Textile Programme.

ISPO Munich, the world’s leading trade fair for the sports industry and the world’s largest sports business event, is about to begin and will soon present the prestigious ISPO Awards to the most innovative products and newcomers of tomorrow. The ISPO Awards are regarded as a global driving force for the sports industry. Showcasing the latest trends and innovations in product design, materials and digital solutions, these awards set new standards for the future of the sports industry.

The best products of 2024 will be honoured at ISPO Munich in December and can be seen at the ISPO Award area in Hall B1 from 3 to 5 December 2024. At the same time, newcomers to the sports and outdoor industry will be given a stage at ISPO Brandnew, the largest start-up competition in the sports business, where they will present their innovative products in exciting live pitches during ISPO Munich. The grand finale will take place on the second day of the event on the Main Stage.

The ISPO Award seal of quality is given to sports products with a particularly high level of innovation, thus providing a curated overview of the most important trends in the industry. For the brands, innovations are enormously important and indispensable, whether in the textile sector, where much has changed in terms of materials, or in the integration of AI into all sub-sectors of the sporting goods industry. An expert jury of business professionals and regularly changing, sports-loving retail consumers from the ISPO Collaborators Club will review the submitted product innovations in advance and award prizes to the ones that meet the relevant criteria.

The submitted products make it possible to identify and observe trends. In 2024, the spectrum of trends continues to include sustainability in relation to textile innovations, the circular economy and recycling, as well as retail consumers’ desire for multipurpose use of diverse products. The integration of technology and the ever-growing role of AI numbers among the most exciting observations.

SUSTAINABILITY AS THE STANDARD
New EU legislation has led to an acceleration in the development of sustainable, functional materials. At this year’s ISPO Award jury meetings, numerous exciting material innovations were observed, especially in the textile sector. Progress in chemical treatments, such as PFC-free DWRs and textiles, is also remarkable. “Sustainability is increasingly becoming the norm, which means that consumers are coming to expect it as standard”, says juror and textile expert Dr Regina Henkel. “Progress is visible, for example, in the use of mono-materials or bio-based fabrics such as wool-Tencel blends”, which are used, for example, in this year’s ISPO Award winner Icebreaker with the Merino Blend 800 RealFleece Classic Pile LS Zip.

The ISPO Award entries also make it obvious that the performance of sustainable products made from recycled fibres has improved markedly so that the functionality of these products is now fully on a par with non-recycled items. Nevertheless, recycling will not be the solution to all future challenges, which is why manufacturers are increasingly incorporating into their collections natural fibres and biodegradable sports textiles, either in pure form or as a blend.

MULTI-USE REMAINS A TOP TREND
The trend towards multifunctional products reflects consumers’ desire for practical solutions. Particularly in Asia, multifunctional hardware products are perceived positively, while in Europe the focus is on textiles for multifunctional use. “High-quality, high-performance materials and designs are being adapted as everyday fashion, thus appealing to a broader target group”, explains trade journalist Dr Martina Wengenmeir, who is also one of the ISPO Award’s jurors. The “urban outdoor” trend is continuing and multipurpose products are also coming into focus in the area of commitment. One example of this is the Outdoor Backpack 45L from Peak Design, which combines fashionable and multifunctional design with full performance.

ISPO Award juror Dr Wengenmeir has identified another trend: “There is a growing focus on technical sports products designed specifically for women. These include football shoes with a design that is genuinely their own. This development goes beyond simple adjustments and includes well-thought-out designs in terms of fit and functionality.” These also include the BettHer - Bra Antishock+: the bra relies on a patented thermoplastic gel technology that provides excellent shock absorption and protection during intense activities.

INTEGRATION OF TECHNOLOGY
A trend from Asia that is also arriving in Europe is the integration of technology into clothing, for example through sensors and warmth apps. The personalisation of garments using technologies such as AI and sensor technology for temperature regulation is regarded as a potential growth area, despite concerns about sustainability.

Technology is also playing an increasingly important role for brick-and-mortar retailers, for example, when it comes to analysing the right product for the customer. Treadmills for running analysis are well known, but this year’s ISPO Award winner, the Skimulator, is a patented world first for a perfect fit of ski boots. This state-of-the-art simulator precisely simulates slope gradients, thus enabling the perfect fit of the ski boot.

ISPO BRANDNEW AWARD
ISPO Munich also provides a stage for the most innovative and creative newcomers in the sports and outdoor industry. Previous ISPO Brandnew winners include pioneering brands from all over the world that have redefined the boundaries of their respective fields with innovative materials, cutting-edge technology and sustainable action. Four start-ups each from the categories “Outdoor & Adventure & Snowsports”, “Performance, Body & Mind (physical product)”, “Sustainability” and “Sports Technology & Platforms” will pitch their ideas live on the main stage. A sneak peek at the innovations on show includes: BreezeLabs, which monitors breathing patterns during exercise; no normal coffee, coffee in a tube; and the AeroGraph Puffer Jacket, a weather-insulating jacket. The winner will be announced in the grand finale on the second day of the fair (4 December 2024).

Making bags for transporting fresh water by sea: Tarpaulins are large sheets of strong, flexible, water-resistant material used for protection from extreme conditions. The most common material used to make them is PVC-coated polyester, which is characterized by its low price and good resistance. However, recycling these products represents a major challenge because there are no large-scale commercial solutions for tarpaulin recycling. Companies have been trying for decades to replace PVC-coated fabrics with a polymer that is more recyclable. Although some alternatives are available, they are generally too costly to compete with PVC-coated fabrics and do not fully address stringent safety and recyclability requirements.
 
The European TARPAULIFE Project aims to demonstrate the possibility of manufacturing large-area polyolefin coated fabrics such as polyethylene and polypropylene that can compete in terms of cost with PVC-coated fabrics while maintaining their properties of strength, flexibility, impermeability and lower environmental impact. This new material will be used to manufacture bags for transporting fresh water by sea, although this innovative, more sustainable and recyclable fabric can also be applied to other products, such as tarpaulins commonly used in lorries and coverings.

Rina Consulting is coordinating this project co-financed by the European LIFE Programme with the participation of the companies Ziplast, Nowa and Giovanardi, and AIMPLAS.

The main result of the project will be a production facility of three-metre-wide polyolefin-coated fabrics with a production capacity of 250,000 m²/year one year after termination of the project, which started in May 2024 and will last for two years. The main application selected is water bags, which represent an innovative way of transporting large amounts of fresh water by sea, as opposed to the usual forms of transport in tankers.

Solving water supply problems in a sustainable way
This technology was developed mainly to transport water from high-production areas that are relatively close to areas with supply problems due to episodes of drought, seasonal increases in demand due to tourism and even to respond to emergency situations. This initiative has already resulted in the REFRESH and XXL-REFRESH Projects financed by the European Commission, in which AIMPLAS, RINA and Ziplast participated, and which successfully tested a floating water bag with a modular design and a zip connection. The aim of the TARPAULIFE Project is to go one step further with the coating material of these polyester bags and replace PVC with polyolefins so they are more sustainable and easier to recycle.
 
As demonstrators of the project, two 2,500 m³ water bags will therefore be made with the new material for testing in two locations in Europe. Demonstration of the water bag will provide a backup freshwater reservoir in the North Sea off the coast of Iceland and in the Mediterranean.

Thanks to this new production plant for polyolefin-coated fabrics, which will be located at the Ziplast facility in Milan, it is anticipated that more than 100 water bags will be produced three years after project end and more than two million cubic metres of water will be stored at three fresh water storage sites. The proposed solution will help avoid incineration of more than 2,000 tonnes of PVC and prevent more than 13 tonnes of CO2 from being released into the environment.
 
General goals

• PRODUCTION
  the set-up of a production facility of a monomaterial POLYOLEFIN-based coated structural fabrics, width 3 metres, with a production capacity of 250.000 square meters per year already 1 year after the project end.
• PROTOTYPING
  the prototyping of two 2.5 million litres waterbags made with the new POLYOLEFIN-based coated fabrics and the quantification of the environmental and LCA-LCC benefits compared to the use of PVC-coated fabrics.
• DEMONSTRATION
  the demonstration of the waterbag to be used as backup freshwater reservoir in two locations in Europe, offshore Iceland and in the Mediterranean.
• EXPLOITATION and REPLICATION
  Exploitation and replication of project results in other sectors, namely for the production of eco-friendly truck tarps and glacier ice covers, and demonstration of sustainability with the quantification of the environmental and LCA-LCC benefits compared to the use of PVC-coated fabrics for all the intended applications.
• DISSEMINATION & COMMUNICATION
  An effective dissemination and communication of the project results, targeting stakeholders worldwide.    

Specific goals

• Processing plant with a new coating machine capable of coating up to a fabric width of 3,000 mm.
• Procurement of equipment: a weaving machine for production of high-strength textiles with a width of 3,000 mm from polyolefin fibres.
• Integration of components and testing: checking and monitoring that the different system components are fully integrated and meet expectations in terms of performance is fundamental.
• Production runs, fixing errors and validation.
• Prototype design.
• Procurement of raw materials and ancillary components.
• Production of zip and tarpaulin patterns.
• Waterbag demo under dry conditions.
• Waterbag demo at sea (Northern Europe).
• Waterbag demo in the Mediterranean.
• Economic and environmental sustainability.
• Management of project innovation by using a careful exploitation and IPR management strategy, and ensuring the economic viability of all key project results.
• Studying replication of the developed solutions for different markets and applications. Initial exploitation of the TARPAULIFE results will be in Europe.
• Preparation of communication material.
• Dissemination across different channels.
• Compliance with EU indications in terms of alternative products to PVC and additive-free products.

The project also includes replication of the results in other sectors, namely, the production of eco-friendly truck tarps and glacier tarpaulins, and a demonstration of the sustainability of the new polyolefin fabric coating solution by quantifying the environmental and LCA-LCC benefits compared to the use of PVC-coated fabrics for all intended applications.

The TARPAULIFE Project is co-financed by the European Union through the LIFE Programme with file number 101147948 – LIFE23-ENV-IT-TARPAULIFE.   

Textile Exchange launched the first Materials Market Report in 2013 as a comprehensive, annual publication that provides unique data and insights into global fiber and raw materials production.

The Materials Market Report shares best available data on global fibre and material production volumes alongside program-specific volumes and other insights such as the number of certified sites. For the purpose of this report, leather, rubber, and down are considered non-fibre raw materials and are therefore included separately from the section and charts on ‘global fibre’.

It helps inform the textile industry’s efforts to reduce emissions associated with raw material production in line with a 1.5-degree temperature rise pathway. The report highlights the urgency to accelerate the transition to fibres from preferred sources, intensify efforts to significantly reduce reliance on virgin fossil-based materials, and invest in strategies that separate value creation from the need for extracting new materials.

It’s important to note that the compilation of global market data for fibres and raw materials is challenging and the quality of available data is often limited. The collection of primary data from suppliers is beyond the scope of this report so Textile Exchange relies on secondary data from industry associations, international organizations, governmental organizations, standard setters, and research institutes.

While Textile Exchange has collected, analysed, and compiled this information in all good conscience and has cross-checked it wherever possible, the report is intended for general guidance and information purposes only. Data gaps and inconsistencies are common in global market data, so modelling has often had to be applied.

Global fibre production reached an all-time high of 124 million tonnes in 2023, according to the latest Materials Market Report– which looks at total volumes used for apparel, home textiles, footwear, or any other application.

The data shows that the market share of virgin fossil-based synthetics continued to increase in 2023, with a decline in that of cotton and recycled fibres. Other key takeaways from the report’s data include:

• Record fibre production: Despite industry efforts, global fibre production has more than doubled since 2000. The last year’s 124 million tonnes represents a 7% increase from 116 million tonnes in 2022, and is expected to rise to 160 million tonnes in 2030 if current trends continue.
• Synthetics continue to dominate: The production of virgin fossil-based synthetic fibres increased from 67 million tonnes in 2022 to 75 million tonnes in 2023. Polyester remained the most produced fibre globally, accounting for 57% of total fibre production.
• Recycled synthetics face challenges: Although recycled polyester fibre production slightly increased in 2023, the overall market share of recycled polyester decreased from 13.6% to 12.5%. For polyamide (nylon), the second most used synthetic fibre, recycled fibres constituted only 2% of the total market share. These trends are attributed to the lower prices and continued production of virgin synthetics, as well as current limitations in recycling technologies. Less than 1% of the global fibre market came from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles.
  
  The combined share of all recycled fibres slightly decreased in 2023, from around 7.9% to 7.7%, mainly due to an increase in the production of fossil-based polyester, which had lower prices than recycled polyester. Fossil based synthetics production increased from 67 million tonnes in 2022 to 75 million tonnes in 2023. Meanwhile, less than 1% of the global fibre market came from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles.
• Cotton production saw a slight decline: Total global cotton volumes fell slightly from 25.1 million tonnes in 2022 to 24.4 million tonnes in 2023. However, the share of cotton produced under sustainability programs remained stable, accounting for 29% of all cotton produced.
• Certified wool climbs: Data showed positive trends for wool produced under standards such as the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), ZQ, SustainaWOOL (GREEN and GOLD), Sustainable Cape Wool Standard (SCWS) and Climate Beneficial programs. This increased from 4.2% in 2022 to 4.8% in 2023. Recycled wool continued to account for around 6% of the global wool market.
• Certified mohair and cashmere reached almost half of market share: Certified fibres such as mohair and cashmere saw notable growth, both with market shares of 47%.
• Manmade cellulosic fibres production increased: Overall MMCF production increased from 7.4 million tonnes in 2022 to 7.9 million tonnes in 2023, representing 6% of the global fibre market.

The report highlights a continued reliance on new virgin fossil-based synthetic materials, threatening to undermine the industry’s commitments to its climate goals. It also shows the current limitations of textile-to-textile recycling and an urgent need for innovative solutions, with most recycled polyester still coming from PET bottles.

Amid these concerns, one positive trend that stands out is the increased industry demand for responsible animal fibres through programs like the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) and Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS), both contributing to better animal welfare and environmental management. This indicates the potential of farm-level standards of this kind to increase market recognition of more sustainable practices on the ground.

“We hope this data serves as a clear call to action for the industry, highlighting both the successes and the critical areas where we must intensify our focus to meet climate targets,” said Claire Bergkamp, CEO of Textile Exchange.

“Unlocking textile-to-textile recycling pathways will be essential to reducing reliance on virgin synthetics. Equally important is continuing to support those on the ground who are driving the transition from conventional systems to preferred materials. It is more urgent than ever to support those who have already invested in preferred systems, while also enabling the transition away from conventional at scale.”

Download of the Materials Market Report 2024.

The project:

• analysed 2.7 million square kilometres in India for organic cotton
• demonstrates 97% accuracy rate in detecting cotton fields, over 80% accu-racy in determining their organic status.
• aims to increase organic cotton integrity and availability

In a pioneering move that could reshape sustainable agriculture, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and AI firm Marple have unveiled the results of their revolutionary Satellite Cotton Monitoring Project in India, demonstrating a 97% accuracy rate in detecting cotton fields and over 80% accuracy in determining their organic status. Addressing critical challenges in the industry, this innovative project aims to increase organic cotton availability and secure fibre integrity, building on GOTS's existing robust measures.

Global Standard is a trailblazer, solution provider and thought leader in the voluntary sustainability standards space, and the Satellite Cotton Monitoring Project continues this tradition of innovation and creative thinking.

How it Works
Co-financed by Global Standard, the non-profit behind GOTS, and the European Space Agency’s (ESA) Business Applications and Space Solutions (BASS) programme, the project leverages the Cotton Cultivation Remote Assessment (CoCuRA) software developed by Marple.

Field teams visited over 6,000 fields in India, across the states of Gujarat, Haryana, Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra, collecting data on crops, soil types and cultivation status. This data was then used by Marple to refine the CoCuRA algorithm for cotton specifics in India. Once the algorithm was trained, it was applied to the entire agricultural area of India, covering a staggering 2.7 million square kilometres. Within seconds, CoCuRA detected all organic and conventional cotton fields with remarkable accuracy. A project of this magnitude is only possible with CoCuRA with no other comparable project or data in existence.

Enhancing Organic Cotton Availability
The technology's ability to pinpoint cotton fields where farmers use near-organic or uncertified organic methods can ensure a steady increase in certified organic cotton by facilitating their certification process.

Jeffrey Thimm, organic production specialist at Global Standard, said, "This technology identifies farmers who use sustainable methods that meet organic standards but lack certification. By integrating these farms into conversion projects, it boosts organic cotton supply, promotes sustainable farming practices and enables farmers to access premiums on their supplies."

Securing Organic Fibre Integrity
Building on GOTS's robust integrity measures, the CoCuRA software integrates AI technology with satellite data to verify cultivation practices meticulously. The data collected also contributes to Global Standards’ Global Fibre Registry, consolidating comprehensive data on raw material production before entering the GOTS value chain, further adding to fraud detection and prevention.

Sustainability in Textiles
Global Standard is recognised for its comprehensive approach to sustainability. From promoting human rights along the value chain to banning harmful chemicals in certified textiles, GOTS sets a benchmark for integrity and sustainability. In addition, GOTS certification is a powerful tool that helps companies comply with legal requirements globally.

"For over 20 years, we have been pioneering solutions to help the industry on its journey towards sustainability,” said Claudia Kersten, managing director of Global Standard. “This project is a game changer, combining satellite technology with AI to meet the growing demand for genuine organic cotton. In addition, this eye in the sky will prevent fraud by allowing us to crosscheck locations and field sizes in a very cost-efficient way. It's a win-win-win situation: farmers have an incentive to grow organic and improve their lives, the industry can secure its supply and meet its sustainability goals, and consumers have a greater choice of organic textiles."

Future Prospects and Global Impact
Following the successful pilot in India, the project aims to expand globally.

Daniel Lanz, managing partner at Marple, said, "India faces unique challenges in the satellite-based detection of agricultural fields. Firstly, the country is extremely large and spans several climate zones. Secondly, field sizes are very small, and thirdly, field boundaries are often indistinguishable, with one field merging into the next. Despite these challenges, CoCuRA has achieved astonishing accuracy in detecting cotton fields and assessing their cultivation methods. This breakthrough provides a pioneering overview of cotton production in India that would be impossible to achieve on the ground. CoCuRA will help protect the integrity of organic farmers and may facilitate more smallholders transitioning to organic farming by simplifying the certification process."

Guillaume Tuan Prigent, a business developer and partnership officer in ESA’s Applications Projects and Studies Division said, “The potential impact of the solution lies in its ability to be scaled and this is exactly what we are working on. We are looking to deliver a solution that could have a global impact for the benefit of all. “

Global Standard is eager to see this technology extend to other regions and additional fibres, which could revolutionise how crops are monitored.

• 82 per cent of shoppers are against the destroying of returns
• 67 per cent of under-30s accept higher prices for climate-neutral shipping

The digital shopping basket remains popular in Germany: around three in ten purchases are made online, ex-actly as many as in 2020. 27 per cent of respondents buy at least half of their goods and services online. Sustainability plays an important role here: around three quarters (77 per cent) of shoppers prefer suppliers that offer moderate and sustainable packaging and buy from them online. 43 per cent make sure when shopping that they only choose products that they are unlikely to have to return. And 82 per cent support the idea that returns should not be cancelled. These are the results of the representative ‘Postbank Digital Study 2024’.

According to the study, younger people are significantly more open to e-commerce than their elders: Digital natives (under 40 years of age) order 40 per cent of their goods online - 13 percentage points more than digital immigrants (over 40 years of age). The reasons for online shopping also vary greatly between young and old. While the convenient access to home for online shoppers remains the main reason for online shopping in all age groups, the proportion of young people at 52 per cent is significantly lower than the average (62 per cent).

For younger online shoppers, immediate availability (38 per cent) and the option to shop on the go via app (30 per cent) are particularly important. In comparison, only 22 per cent of older users have used apps for shopping to date. Favourable prices are estimated by 56 percent of older online shoppers, while this is important for only 46 percent of younger shoppers. There is a further difference in terms of flexible opening hours: 53 per cent of those aged 40 and over value the ability to shop at any time, compared to 40 per cent of online shoppers under 40.

‘We are facing similar challenges in the digitalisa-tion of our banking services,’ says Thomas Brosch, Head of Digital Sales at Postbank. ‘The needs of the generations differ. We have to constantly optimise our services and the user-friendliness of our offerings - in online banking, on smartphones and in physical branches. In this way, we can make good offers to young and old customers alike.’

Online shopping yes, but please without regrets
18 to 39-year-olds are much more willing to dig deeper into their pockets for sustainability than those aged 40 and over. For example, younger online shoppers pay more attention to CO2 offsetting and are more willing than average to make a voluntary compensation payment: 26 per cent prefer to order from shops where a donation can be made to compensate for the CO2 produced. In contrast, only 11 per cent of older people do so. Two out of three younger Germans also accept higher product prices for sustainable shipping, while not even one in two (46 per cent) of those aged 40 and over are inclined to do so.

70 per cent of digital natives already have experience with in-app purchases
The study also reveals another trend: around four out of ten Germans have already made in-app purchases. And 70 per cent of digital natives already have experience of buying additional content or functions in mobile applications. Those aged 40 and over are much more reluctant: only 29 per cent have already made in-app purchases at least once, and 43 per cent have no plans to do so. Digital natives are not only interested in a good price-performance ratio for in-app purchases, but also in adequate protection against unwanted spending. A quarter of this age group would like this, compared to just 18 per cent of older people.

Younger shoppers are more likely to use banking services when shopping online
When it comes to paying, six out of ten digital natives have already accepted instalment payments or credit offers when shopping online. In addition to favourable conditions (36%) and a reputable payment service provider (35%), it is particularly important to young shoppers that banking services are easy to use (35%). Across all age groups, 89 per cent of Germans have already used such banking services.

Background information on the Postbank Digital Study 2024
For the ‘Postbank Digital Study 2024 - The Digital Germans’, 3,171 residents were surveyed in April of this year. For the tenth year in a row, Postbank is using the study to investigate which developments are emerging in various areas of life with regard to digitalisation in general and financial topics in particular. In order to depict a population-representative structure, the sample was weighted according to federal state (proportionalisation), age and gender. The 2021 census of the Federal Statistical Office was used as the reference file. The results are rounded to whole numbers. Deviations in the totals can be explained by rounding differences.

The rise of fast-fashion, marked by rapid turnover of collections, has led to a sevenfold increase in the global trade of used clothing in the last 4 decades. With more than 80% of all purchased clothing items globally (62% in the EU) being disposed of as general garbage, which is incinerated or landfilled, this represents a massive waste of resources, causing severe environmental and health impacts. A report recently published by UNECE and the United Nations Economic Commission for Latin America and the Caribbean (ECLAC) contains an in-depth analysis of second-hand clothing trade between Europe and Chile, offers policy recommendations to the industry, exporting and importing countries to remedy this situation.

According to UN Comtrade data, in 2021 the European Union (30%), China (16%), and the United States (15%) were the leading exporters of discarded clothes, while Asia (28%, predominantly Pakistan), Africa (19%, especially Ghana and Kenya), and Latin America (16%, mainly Chile and Guatemala) were the leading importers.  

This has been facilitated by the advent of low-cost synthetic fibres and by trade liberalization that allowed the offshoring of production to countries with low-wage labour. Large proportions of clothing are made from difficult-to-separate blended fibres, making opportunities for economic reuse and recycling rare, particularly in developed countries.

“When did we normalize throwing clothes away?”, questions Lily Cole, Climate Activist and Advisor to UNECE. “As the world, mostly the Global North, has produced and consumed fashion at an unrelenting rate, a handful of countries, mainly in the Global South, have become cemeteries for the world’s unloved clothes. While visiting the Atacama Desert, my attention was brought to the textile mountains and the shifting cultural, economic, and political landscapes that birthed them. Consumer awareness is very helpful, yet, ultimately, we need policies to curb systemic trends, which is why this report and its recommendations are so necessary.”

Europe: sorting and recycling capacities lag behind  
In Europe only 15-20% of disposed textiles are collected, usually through containers, door-to-door collection and donations. About half of the collected textiles are downcycled to be used as, for example, insulation, filling, and single-use industrial wipes. Only 1% is recycled into higher value outputs such as new clothing, while the remainder is exported to developing countries.  

Of the 55% of collected clothes that are reusable, only 5 percentage points have a value on second-hand markets in the EU, while 50 percentage points have a value on export markets.  

The European Union has thus tripled its exports of used clothes over the past 2 decades, from 550,000 to 1.7 million tons. Europe, including the United Kingdom, accounts now for more than a third of global used clothing exports, and this share could continue to grow as collection rates are expected to rise.  

A design-led circular economy approach to clothing is still in its infancy. The EU Circular Economy Action Plan (CEAP) was adopted in 2020, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles was adopted in 2022, and the EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation was adopted in 2023. However, these policies are still to bear fruit in the form of large-scale upstream solutions to the problems of textile waste. 

“The used clothes global market is constantly growing, and with it, its negative impacts. The textile industry has a key responsibility to adopt more sustainable practices, exporters and importers to adopt relevant policy decisions to foster traceability, circularity and sustainability. UN/CEFACT policy recommendations and standards will support this transition. And of course, we all have a role to play, as consumers, to make sustainable choices,” stressed UNECE Executive Secretary Tatiana Molcean.

The case of Chile: mountains of used clothes visible from the moon  
Most countries in Latin America (including Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Mexico, and Peru) have introduced clothing import bans to protect their national textile and fashion industries and avoid the threats posed by clothing dumps.

By contrast, Chile levies zero tariffs, and applies no quantity restrictions in imports, only requiring shipments to be sanitised (by fumigation). It has thus become one of the top 10 importers in the world, and the first in Latin America, receiving 126,000 tons of textiles in 2021. 40% of these entered the country through the northern port of Iquique, where they are manually sorted, primarily by women, and separated into first, second, and third quality.

75% of all imported used clothes were deemed non-reusable, 30,000 tons of which are covering today 30 hectares of the Atacama desert, generating pollution and creating hazard to local communities’ health. At the same time, trade in second-hand garments also provides employment and formal and informal income for national and migrant populations in established stores and open-air markets across the country, and this must be factored in when redefining public policies.

“To address the environmental and social issues of used textile trade, the EU and Chile must work together on creating robust regulatory frameworks. A partnership between the European Union and Chile could pioneer innovative approaches to regulate and reduce the impact of second-hand textile trade, including by setting global standards for the trade of used textiles, focusing on sustainability and social responsibility." Highlights UNECLAC Executive Secretary, Mr. José Manuel Salazar-Xirinachs.  

Multifold recommendations
The report contains a series of recommendations to the textile industry, exporters and importers.   

To exporting countries

• Make circular economy considerations central to the design of clothing, with mandatory targets for fibre composition that improve quality, durability, repairability, and recyclability  
• Introduce an Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) system holding producers responsible for the products they manufacture  
• Develop more sorting and recycling plants, through financial incentives  
• Develop minimum EU criteria for second-hand clothing exports through the use of digital product passports (DPPs)  
• Run awareness-raising campaigns to encourage consumers to make more informed choices about their clothes

To importing countries – the example of Chile

• Improve customs procedures & administrative measures at the port of Iquique to ensure digital traceability of flows of used clothing and textile based on the UN/CEFACT traceability standard   
• Establish a Circular Economy Strategy for Textiles  
• Set-up public-private alliances for recycling projects through tax extension schemes and funds to support entrepreneurship, innovation, and job creation for vulnerable groups, particularly in the Tarapacá region  
• Improve the legal framework for waste management   
• Implement a Regional Solid Waste Control Plan, involving inspections of sanitary landfills, clean points, and dumps to increase the enforcement capacity of regional health authorities  
• Accelerate the adoption of the Chilean draft law on environmental quality of soils.

The report also recommends making changes to international trade agreements, such as the2023 Interim Trade Agreement between the EU and Chile, which includes a chapter on Trade and Sustainable Development, to step up bilateral cooperation, and using it as a template for other bilateral trade agreements between the EU and other countries.   

Download the Executive Summary

From risottos to sauces, mushrooms have long been a staple in the kitchen. Now fungi are showing the potential to serve up more than just flavor—as a sustainable, bendy material for the fashion industry.

Researchers are using the web-like structure of the mushroom's root system—the mycelium—as an alternative to synthetic fibers for clothing and other products such as car seats.

"It's definitely a change of mindset in the manufacturing process," said Annalisa Moro, EU project leader at Italy-based Mogu, which makes interior-design products from the mycelium. "You're really collaborating with nature to grow something rather than create it, so it's kind of futuristic."

Mogu, located 50 kilometers northwest of Milan, is managing a research initiative to develop nonwoven fabrics made of mycelium fibers for the textile industry.

Called MY-FI, the project runs for four years through October 2024 and brings together companies, research institutes, industry organizations and academic institutions from across Europe.

MY-FI highlights how the EU is pushing for more sustainable production and consumption in the textile and apparel industry, which employs around 1.3 million people in Europe and has annual turnover of €167 billion.

While getting most of its textiles from abroad, the EU produces them in countries including France, Germany, Italy and Spain. Italy accounts for more than 40% of EU apparel production.

Delicate and durable
The mycelium grows from starter spawn added to crops such as cereals. The threadlike filaments of the hyphae, the vegetative part of the fungus, create a material that grows on top. It is harvested and dried, resulting in soft, silky white sheets of nonwoven fabric that are 50 to 60 square centimeters.

The delicate material is made stronger and more durable through the addition of bio-based chemicals that bind the fibers together.

Its ecological origins contrast with those of most synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester, which derive from fossil fuels such as coal and oil.

That means production of synthetic fibers adds to greenhouse-gas emissions that are accelerating climate change. In addition, when washed, these materials shed microplastics that often end up polluting the environment including rivers, seas and oceans.

The MY-FI mycelium needs very little soil, water or chemicals, giving it greener credentials than even natural fibers such as cotton.

Dress rehearsal
For the fashion industry, the soft, water-resistant properties of the mycelium are as appealing as its environmental credentials.

Just ask Mariagrazia Sanua, sustainability and certification manager at Dyloan Bond Factory, an Italian fashion designer and manufacturer that is part of MY-FI.

The company has used the mycelium-based material—in black and brown and with a waxed finish—to produce a prototype dress, a top-and-midi-skirt combination, bags and small leather accessories.

Laser cutting and screen printing were used to evaluate the material's behavior. The challenge was to adapt to the sheets of fabric—squares of the mycelium material rather than traditional rolls of textiles like cotton, linen and polyester—as well as properties such as tensile strength and seam tightness.

"We have had to completely change the paradigm and design processes and garments based on the material," said Sanua.

The company hopes the mycelium material will be a way of offering consumers a range of products that can be alternatives to animal leather.

Leather-unbound
Meanwhile, Germany-based Volks¬wagen, the world's No. 2 car manufacturer, is looking to mycelium technologies to reduce its environmental footprint and move away from leather for vehicle interiors.

Customers increasingly want animal-free materials for interiors from seat covers and door panels to dashboards and steering wheels, so adding a sustainable substitute for leather is an exciting prospect, according to Dr. Martina Gottschling, a researcher at Volkswagen Group Innovation.

"A fast-growing biological material that can be produced animal-free and with little effort, which also does not require petroleum-based resources, is a game-changer in interior materials," she said.

The mycelium material is also lighter than leather, another positive for reducing VW's carbon footprint.

The company's involvement in MY-FI is driving project researchers at Utrecht University in the Netherlands and I-TECH Lyon in France to enhance the durability of the mycelium fabric. To move from prototype to production line, the fabric must meet quality requirements set by VW to ensure the material lasts for the life of the vehicle.

It's a challenge that Gottschling believes will be met in the coming decade.

"We already see the material as one of the high-quality materials for interior applications that will be possible in the future," she said.

When life gives you tomatoes
Mushrooms aren't the only food with the potential to spin a sustainable-yarn revolution. Tomato stems have a hidden talent too, according to Dr. Ozgur Atalay and Dr. Alper Gurarslan of Istanbul Technical University in Turkey.

Seeing tomato vines left to wither in the fields after the crop was harvested, Atalay and Gurarslan began to investigate whether the stems could be transformed into sustainable fibers.

Tests proved that the agricultural waste could indeed be turned into yarn. But Atalay and Gurarslan were determined to go a step further. They wanted to use tomato stems to create a type of yarn for garments that monitor heart beats, respiratory rates and joint movements.

The two researchers lead a project to create this kind of electrically conductive apparel using—for the first time—sustainable materials.

Called SMARTWASTE, the project runs for four years until the end of 2026 and also involves academic and research organizations from Germany, Italy, the Netherlands and Poland.

"The beauty of the project is that we are starting from waste," said Atalay. "We are taking agricultural waste and not just creating regular textiles but something much more valuable."

While cost estimates will follow later in the project when design partners work on creating actual products, he signaled that smart clothing will be a good deal more expensive than the ordinary kind.

A smart textile shirt could cost as much as €1,000, according to Atalay.

The specialized material, limited production runs and research and development needed to create wearable technologies that are durable, washable and comfortable all contribute to the price tag.

Advancements in technology should eventually lead to lower production costs and consumer prices.

Seeds of poplar success
The Turkish countryside has also inspired a second strand to the project. Turkey's abundant poplar trees and—more specifically—their white, fluffy cotton-like seeds prompted Gurarslan to investigate whether they could be a sustainable textile source.

While their fibers have been dismissed as too short to make a yarn, the seeds have three particular properties that appeal to the textile industry: a hollow, pipe-like structure that can trap heat to provide thermal qualities, an antibacterial nature and water resistance.

The network of SMARTWASTE experts has blended the seeds with recycled polyester to make a nonwoven fabric that the team intends to turn into textile products with enhanced thermal properties.

The researchers hope this is just the start of a far-reaching transformation of textiles.

"Our goal is to train the next generation of researchers and innovators in sustainable textiles," said Atalay.

The University of Borås, Aalborg University Business School and Circular Innovation Lab have just started the 'North-South Circular Value Chains Within Textiles' project - an explorative project that aims at bridging textile brands in the Nordics with a strong focus on sustainability with innovative producers in the South.

Focus areas are Circular Value Chains (CVCs), Circular and resource-efficient textiles economy, Workwear and technical clothing, Sectors such as construction, energy, electronics and IT, plastics, textiles, retail and metals.

Made possible by a grant from the Interreg ÖKS programme, the first step is to create a specific economic, legal and technological framework allowing Scandinavian workwear companies to enter into close collaboration on circular solutions in the overall textile value chain and to prepare, and adapt their global value chains to the upcoming EU regulations on circular economy.

Recently, the consortium partners convened for an initial meeting at The Swedish School of Textiles to discuss the project framework, which is a feasibility study intended to lead to a multi-year project involving workwear companies in the Öresund-Kattegat-Skagerrak (ÖKS) region, including their supply chains in Asia.

Kim Hjerrild, Strategic Partnerships Lead at the Danish think tank Circular Innovation Lab, Copenhagen, explained: "The goal is to assist workwear producers in Denmark, Sweden, and Norway in becoming more sustainable through circular product design, production, and service concepts. We are pleased to have The Swedish School of Textiles lead the project as they have a strong tradition of collaborating with textile companies."

Complex branch
The decision to focus specifically on workwear stems from it being a complex part of the textile industry, demanding strict standards, certifications, safety aspects, and specific functions depending on the application area, such as specific high-performance environments, healthcare, and hospitality. "To future-proof their operations, companies need to become more resource efficient and circular by producing durable and long lasting workwear that can be repaired and reused. Additionally, they must reduce their carbon footprint per product, as well as minimize problematic chemical usage, and increasingly use recycled materials" explained Kim Hjerrild.

Wants to provide companies with tools and knowledge
Apoorva Arya, founder and CEO of Circular Innovation Lab, elaborates: "Our first and primary goal is to equip Scandinavian workwear companies with tools and knowledge in order to comply with the upcoming EU directives and policies. This includes regulations on product-specific design requirements to labour conditions for employees, human rights, all the way from production to third-party suppliers. Ensuring these companies, especially their suppliers, can transition to a circular supply chain, and navigate the legislative landscape, while guaranteeing competitiveness in the global market."

Focus on new structures
Rudrajeet Pal, Professor of Textile Management at The Swedish School of Textiles, is pleased that the university can be the coordinator of the project. "From the perspective of my research group, this
is incredibly interesting given the focus on the examination and development of ‘new’ supply chain and business model structures that would enable sustainable value generation in textile enterprises, industry, and for the environment and society at large. We have conducted several projects where such global north-south value chain focus is eminent, and this time particularly in workwear companies’ value chain between Scandinavia and Asia. We are delighted to contribute expertise and our experience of working internationally."

About the pre-project North-South Circular Value Chains Within Textiles, NSCirTex
The project aims to support the circular transition in the Nordics by setting up a shared governance model to enable pre-competitive collaboration and the design of circular value chains between Scandinavian workwear companies in the ÖKS-region and producers in India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Türkiye.

The next step is to achieve a multi-year main project where workwear companies with their suppliers in Asian countries, can test tailored models for shared governance as a way to develop practical circular solutions, such as post-consumer recycling, circular material procurement, develop safe and resource efficient circular products, enhance social sustainability and due diligence, among others. The main project will thus develop solutions to reduce material footprint, and resource usage while generating both commercial viability and prepare for new regulation, reporting, and accountability.

Partners in this feasibility study: University of Borås, Aalborg University Business School, and Circular Innovation Lab. The feasibility study is funded by the EU through the Interreg Öresund-Kattegat-Skagerrak European Regional Development Fund.

Researchers led by Keiji Numata at the RIKEN Center for Sustainable Resource Science in Japan, along with colleagues from the RIKEN Pioneering Research Cluster, have succeeded in creating a device that spins artificial spider silk that closely matches what spiders naturally produce. The artificial silk gland was able to re-create the complex molecular structure of silk by mimicking the various chemical and physical changes that naturally occur in a spider’s silk gland. This eco-friendly innovation is a big step towards sustainability and could impact several industries. This study was published January 15 in the scientific journal Nature Communications.

Famous for its strength, flexibility, and light weight, spider silk has a tensile strength that is comparable to steel of the same diameter, and a strength to weight ratio that is unparalleled. Added to that, it’s biocompatible, meaning that it can be used in medical applications, as well as biodegradable. So why isn’t everything made from spider silk? Large-scale harvesting of silk from spiders has proven impractical for several reasons, leaving it up to scientists to develop a way to produce it in the laboratory.

Spider silk is a biopolymer fiber made from large proteins with highly repetitive sequences, called spidroins. Within the silk fibers are molecular substructures called beta sheets, which must be aligned properly for the silk fibers to have their unique mechanical properties. Re-creating this complex molecular architecture has confounded scientists for years. Rather than trying to devise the process from scratch, RIKEN scientists took a biomimicry approach. As Numata explains, “in this study, we attempted to mimic natural spider silk production using microfluidics, which involves the flow and manipulation of small amounts of fluids through narrow channels. Indeed, one could say that that the spider’s silk gland functions as a sort of natural microfluidic device.”

The device developed by the researchers looks like a small rectangular box with tiny channels grooved into it. Precursor spidroin solution is placed at one end and then pulled towards the other end by means of negative pressure. As the spidroins flow through the microfluidic channels, they are exposed to precise changes in the chemical and physical environment, which are made possible by the design of the microfluidic system. Under the correct conditions, the proteins self-assembled into silk fibers with their characteristic complex structure.

The researchers experimented to find these correct conditions, and eventually were able to optimize the interactions among the different regions of the microfluidic system. Among other things, they discovered that using force to push the proteins through did not work; only when they used negative pressure to pull the spidroin solution could continuous silk fibers with the correct telltale alignment of beta sheets be assembled.

“It was surprising how robust the microfluidic system was, once the different conditions were established and optimized,” says Senior Scientist Ali Malay, one of the paper’s co-authors. “Fiber assembly was spontaneous, extremely rapid, and highly reproducible. Importantly, the fibers exhibited the distinct hierarchical structure that is found in natural silk fiber.”

The ability to artificially produce silk fibers using this method could provide numerous benefits. Not only could it help reduce the negative impact that current textile manufacturing has on the environment, but the biodegradable and biocompatible nature of spider silk makes it ideal for biomedical applications, such as sutures and artificial ligaments.

“Ideally, we want to have a real-world impact,” says Numata. “For this to occur, we will need to scale-up our fiber-production methodology and make it a continuous process. We will also evaluate the quality of our artificial spider silk using several metrics and make further improvements from there.”