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Deakin researchers surpass silkworm silk by taking a holistic approach	© Freyla Ferguson / Deakin University
17.04.2025

Deakin researchers surpass silkworm silk by taking a holistic approach

Dr Ben Allardyce and PhD candidate Mr Martin Zaki from Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials’ (IFM) have delivered a world first in next generation materials research.

Silkworm silk is a protein-based fibre with mechanical properties rivalling petroleum-derived synthetic fibres yet spun using a fraction of the energy. Despite decades of research, aspects of natural silkworm spinning remain a mystery.

Dr Ben Allardyce and PhD candidate Mr Martin Zaki from Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials’ (IFM) have delivered a world first in next generation materials research.

Silkworm silk is a protein-based fibre with mechanical properties rivalling petroleum-derived synthetic fibres yet spun using a fraction of the energy. Despite decades of research, aspects of natural silkworm spinning remain a mystery.

The IFM discovery takes researchers one step closer to solving this mystery by wet spinning a new class of silk that produces fibres that outperform natural silk.
 
A materials breakthrough

This research, led by Dr Allardyce and Mr Zaki, with expert input from Sheffield University's Professor Chris Holland, involves sidestepping degumming - a commonplace industrial process - and experimenting with dissolving whole silk fibres.
Using this new technique, the team were able to produce a spinnable solution that better imitates silk as it is produced by the silkworm. This solution was wet spun using IFM’s state-of-the art pilot fibre and textile facility to produce fibres that more closely matched natural silk.

According to IFM’s Deputy Director Joe Razal, the team’s discovery is a world first and demonstrates how IFM researchers are creating new sustainable materials that have real-world application and impact.

‘Ben and Martin challenged the norm by creating silk fibres in a laboratory setting,’ Professor Razal said.

‘They wet spun a cocktail of solubilised, non-separated silk components that mimic the properties produced in nature.’

‘The team identified a way to recreate the fibre produced by the silkworm and unlock the potential for it to be just as biodegradable, tough and energy efficient. In fact, when spun under identical conditions, undegummed solutions produces fibres 8 times stronger and 218 times tougher than degummed silk feedstocks.’

Undegummed versus degummed silk
‘Traditionally, industry has used degumming to unravel the silkworms cocoon to produce their fibres. It is also commonly used by researchers to facilitate “unspinning” silk back into a solution that can then be solidified into new forms,’ Professor Holland said.
’However removing a key component to the natural material, the sericin gum coating, often comes with collateral damage to the silk proteins and so it’s often considered a necessary evil.’

Mr Zaki explains that the team wanted to produce better materials while simultaneously understanding how.

‘We took a step back and asked why has no one attempted this? Is it because it is too hard, or because everyone degums silk and no one has considered doing something different?

In industry, the largest portion of water waste, labour, and energy consumption usually comes from the degumming process. By-passing this step, we increase the potential of a more sustainable technology.’

‘Undegummed cocoons are normally insoluble,’ adds Dr Allardyce. ‘Our innovative process combines a milling step followed by a supersaturated solvent that enables dissolution.’

‘No-one has attempted to artificially spin undegummed silk before. And no-one has ever successfully dissolved undegummed cocoons and re-spun them in this way.’
 
Future applications
Degummed silk is used in nerve repair, coating foods to improve shelf-life and biodegradable batteries.

This ground-breaking research forges a new pathway to recreate a fibre with structures akin to native silk.

Dr Allardyce maintains that it’s also an innovation that could apply to other next generation fibres.

‘If the knowledge could be applied to other biopolymers - other proteins, cellulosic fibres - we could potentially produce new fibres that have a fraction of the energy input to synthetics but perform just as well while retaining the advantage of biodegradability.’

Source:

Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials’ (IFM)

Photo by FlyD on Unsplash
04.02.2025

Sustainable Textiles – The Way Forward

High dependence on fossil carbon, associated high carbon footprint, low recycling rates and microplastics: several solutions are emerging.

The evolution of the demand for textile fibres from 1960 to the present day shows how the textile industry found itself in this dilemma. In 1960, around 95% of textile fibres were of natural origin, from bio-based carbon, and there was no problem with microplastics, all fibres were biodegradable.

High dependence on fossil carbon, associated high carbon footprint, low recycling rates and microplastics: several solutions are emerging.

The evolution of the demand for textile fibres from 1960 to the present day shows how the textile industry found itself in this dilemma. In 1960, around 95% of textile fibres were of natural origin, from bio-based carbon, and there was no problem with microplastics, all fibres were biodegradable.

The explosion in demand – 650% between 1960 and 2023 – could only be met by synthetic fibres from the chemical and plastics industries. Their share grew from 3% in 1960 to 68% in 2023 and from less than 700,000 tonnes to 85 million tonnes/year (The Fiber Year 2024). The new fibres covered a wide range of properties, could even achieve previously unknown properties and, above all, thanks to a powerful and innovative chemical and plastics industry, production volumes could be rapidly increased and comparatively low prices realised.
 
At the same time, sustainability has declined, the carbon footprint of the textiles has increased significantly and the issue of microplastics requires solutions.

The first step would be to significantly increase the proportion of renewable fibres, as this is the only way to reduce dependence on fossil carbon, especially in the form of crude oil, and thus reduce the carbon footprint. But how can this be done? As defined by the Renewable Carbon Initiative, renewable carbon comes from biomass, CO2 and recycling: From carbon above ground. This addresses the core problem of climate change, which is extracting and using additional fossil carbon from the ground that will end up in the atmosphere.
 
What can cotton, bast fibres and wool contribute?
Cotton fibre production can hardly be increased, it is stagnating between 20 and max. 25 million tonnes/year. Cultivated areas can hardly be expanded, and existing areas are salinized by the irrigation required. With the exception of about 1% organic cotton, significant amounts of pesticides are used. The market share of “preferred” cotton – defined by a list of recognized programmes – will fall from 27% of total cotton production in 2019/20 to 24% in 2020/21, after years of growth. (Textile Exchange, October 2022: Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report) Bast fibres such as jute (75%), flax, hemp, ramie or kenaf would require a huge boost in technology development and capacity investment and will nevertheless probably remain more expensive than cotton, simply because bast fibres are much more complicated to process, e.g. separating the fibre from the stalk, which is not necessary for cotton as a fruit fibre. As a source of cellulose fibre, bast fibres will remain more expensive than wood.

Although bast fibres are more sustainable than many other fibres, there is unlikely to be a major change – unless China focuses on bast fibres as a substitute for cotton. Plans to do so have been put on hold due to technological problems.

The importance of man-made cellulosic fibres (MMCFs) or simply cellulose fibres
Cellulose fibre production has been growing steadily over the last decades, reaching an all-time high of nearly 8 million tonnes in 2023, and is expected to grow further to 11 million tonnes in 2030. Cellulosic fibres are the only bio-based and biodegradable fibres that cover a wider range of properties and applications and can rapidly increase their capacity. The raw materials can be virgin wood as well as all types of cellulosic waste streams from forestry, agriculture, cotton processing waste, textile waste and paper waste. Increasing the share of cellulosic fibres will therefore play a crucial role in solving the sustainability challenges of the textile industry.

The production of MMCFs includes viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate and cupro. The market share of FSC and/or PEFC certified MMCF increased from 55–60% in 2020 to 60–65% of all MMCF in 2021. The market share of “recycled MMCFs” increased to an estimated share of 0.5%. Much research and development is underway. As a result, the volumes of recycled MMCFs are expected to increase significantly in the coming years. (Textile Exchange, October 2022: Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report)

The CEPI study “Forest-Based Biorefineries: Innovative Bio-Based Products for a Clean Transition” (renewable-carbon.eu/publications/product/innovative-bio-based-products-for-a-clean-transition-pdf/) identified 143 biorefineries in Europe, of which 126 are operational and 17 are planned. Most of them are based on chemical pulping (67%) – the precursor of cellulose fibres. Most biorefineries are located in Sweden, Finland, Germany, Portugal and Austria. But there are already biorefineries in operation or planned in 18 different European countries.

The global report “Is there enough biomass to defossilise the Chemicals and Derived Materials Sector by 2050?” (upcoming publication end of February 2025, available here: renewablecarbon.eu/publications) shows particularly high growth in dissolving/chemical pulp (from 9 in 2020 to 44 million tonnes in 2050; growth of 406%), cellulose fibres (from 7 in 2020 to 38 million tonnes in 2050; growth of 447%) and cellulose derivatives (from 2 in 2020 to 6 million tonnes in 2050; growth of 190%).

Biosynthetics – Bio-based and CO2-based Synthetic Fibres
To further reduce the share of fossil-based synthetic fibres, bio-based polymer fibres (also called “biosynthetics”) are an excellent option because of their wide range of properties – only the implementation will take decades as the share today is only below 0.5%. There are many options, such as polyester fibres (PLA, PTT, PEF, PHA), polyolefin fibres (PE/PP), bio-based PA fibres from castor oil. PTT, for example, is well established in the US carpet market and PLA in the hygiene market. They are all bio-based, but only a few are also biodegradable (PLA, PHA).
 
Biosynthetics are one of many applications of bio-based polymers. In general, 17 bio-based polymers are currently commercially available with an installed capacity of over 4 million tonnes in 2023. Ten of these bio-based polymers are used as biosynthetics. resulting in the production of over one million tonnes of biosynthetics (nova report: Bio-based Building Blocks and Polymers – Global Capacities, Production and Trends 2023–2028, renewable-carbon.eu/publications/product/bio-based-buildingblocks-and-polymers-global-capacities-production-and-trends-2023-2028-short-version/).

In principle, many fibres can also be made from CO2, but here the technology and capacity needs to be developed, perhaps in parallel with the production of sustainable aviation fuels from CO2, which will become mandatory.

Circular Economy – Recycling of Textile Waste & Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling
The textile industry is at a pivotal moment, where sustainability is no longer an option but a necessity. As the environmental impact of textile production and disposal becomes increasingly clear, the pressure to adopt circular economy principles is growing.

One promising solution is fibre-to-fibre recycling, a process that converts used textiles into new, highquality fibres, effectively closing the waste loop. While significant progress has been made in the European Union, challenges remain, particularly in scaling up technologies, lack of collection systems and handling of mixed fibre textiles. Europe currently generates approximately 6.95 (1.25 + 5.7) million tonnes of textile waste per year, of which only 1.95 million tonnes is collected separately and 1.02 million tonnes is treated by recycling or backfilling.
 
The recycling of textiles reduces the demand for virgin fibres and the textile footprint. The share of recycled fibres increased slightly from 8.4% in 2020 to 8.9% in 2021, mainly due to an increase in bottlebased PET fibres. However, in 2021, less than 1% of the global fibre market will come from pre- and post-consumer recycled textiles (Textile Exchange, October 2022: Preferred Fiber & Materials Market Report). New regulations from Brussels for closed-loop recycling, especially bottle-to-bottle recycling, could threaten the use of bottle-based PET fibres in the textile industry. This would mean a reduction in recycling rates in the textile industry until the logistics and technologies are in place to recycle textiles on a large scale. This will be necessary to contribute to the circular economy. Several research projects are underway to find solutions and first pilot implementations are available.

The Future of Sustainable Textiles
The sustainable textile industry of the future will be built on a foundation of cotton fibres and fast-growing cellulose fibres, later strongly supported by bio- and CO2-based synthetic fibres (“biosynthetics”), and high recycling rates for all types of fibres. This combination can eventually replace most fossil-based synthetic fibres by 2050.

To get the latest information on cellulose fibres, the nova-Institute organises the “Cellulose Fibres Conference” every year, which will take place next time in Cologne on 12 and 13 March 2025 – this year for the first time with biosynthetics.

Source:

Michael Carus and Dr. Asta Partanen, nova-Institute (Germany)

Swijin Inage Swijin
20.06.2023

Innovative sportswear: Swim and run without changing

Just in time for summer: The Swiss start-up Swijin is launching a new sportswear category with its SwimRunner – a sports bra together with matching bottoms that works as both swimwear and running gear and dries in no time. The innovative product was developed together with Empa researchers in an Innosuisse project. The SwimRunner can be tested this weekend at the Zurich City Triathlon.
 
A quick dip after jogging without having to change clothes? Swijin (pronounced Swie-Djin), a new Swiss TechTex start-up, is launching its first product, the SwimRunner: a sports bra and bottoms that function as both swimwear and running gear and dry in a flash.

Just in time for summer: The Swiss start-up Swijin is launching a new sportswear category with its SwimRunner – a sports bra together with matching bottoms that works as both swimwear and running gear and dries in no time. The innovative product was developed together with Empa researchers in an Innosuisse project. The SwimRunner can be tested this weekend at the Zurich City Triathlon.
 
A quick dip after jogging without having to change clothes? Swijin (pronounced Swie-Djin), a new Swiss TechTex start-up, is launching its first product, the SwimRunner: a sports bra and bottoms that function as both swimwear and running gear and dry in a flash.

For the first time, this innovation enables women to make a smooth transition between land and water sports without having to change clothes. For example, hikers and runners can easily go into the water to cool off. Stand-up paddlers wearing the SwimRunner enjoy unrestricted freedom of movement and at the same time sufficient support, both on the board and in the water.
Science to boost sports performance
 
What appears to be a relatively simple requirement at first glance has turned out to be an extremely complex product to develop. As part of an Innosuisse project, Swijin collaborated with the Empa Biomimetic Membranes and Textiles laboratory in St. Gallen. Led by Empa engineer Martin Camenzind, the researchers first defined the requirements for the material and cut of the sports bra. "During development, we faced three main challenges: On the one hand, the product had to meet the requirements of a heavy-duty sports bra on land. At the same time, it had to maintain the compression of a swimsuit in the water – and do so with a very short drying time," says Camenzind.

Since no comparable garment exists on the market yet, the team also developed new tests for evaluating the high-performance textile. "Moreover, we designed a mannequin: a model of the female torso that can be used to measure the mechanical properties of bras," explains the researcher. In addition to scientific findings, the product development process also incorporated a great deal of expertise from sports physiologists, textile engineers, industry specialists, designers and, of course, female athletes.

Highest demands
Many of these athletes come from the swimrun scene. Swimrun is a fast-growing adventure sport that originated in the skerry gardens of Sweden. Unlike triathletes, who start out by swimming, then bike, and finally run, swimrunners switch back and forth between trail running and open water swimming throughout the race. The intensity of this sport provided Swijin with the optimal conditions for product development – and gave its name to the first collection, SwimRunner. "The feedback from female athletes was one of the deciding factors for the success of the product. They often swim and run for six to seven hours at a stretch. When they were satisfied with our prototypes, we knew: The SwimRunner is ready for market," says Swijin founder Claudia Glass.

The product idea first came to Claudia Glass while she was on vacation on Mallorca. During her morning runs, she longed to be able to take a quick dip in the sea. "Sports bras, however, are not designed for swimming," the founder explains. "They soak up the water and never seem to dry because of their thick compression material. Last summer, I wore the SwimRunner prototype all day. In the morning, I ran to Lake Zurich with my dog and jumped in. When I got back home, I could have just sat down at my desk and started working – I was completely dry and felt very comfortable."

Design and sustainability
The young company makes a point of combining engineering and design. Swijin's creative director, Valeria Cereda, is based in the center of the world's fashion capital, Milan, and infuses her experience with luxury brands into Swijin's aesthetic. But as a former competitive swimmer, she is also focused on functionality.

Swijin's high-performance products can only be realized with synthetic materials. The young company is determined to reduce the environmental impact of its products to a minimum. The tight supply chain keeps the CO2 footprint low. The materials of the SwimRunner are 100% made in the EU and designed for quality.

Traditional garment labels only provide information about where the garment was made. Swijin is working with supplier Avery Dennison to provide all products with a Digital Identity Label. This gives consumers detailed information about the entire value chain, right down to the textile manufacturer's investment in reducing its carbon footprint and the use of the water-based, solvent-free logo. Swijin packages all materials in Cradle-to-Cradle Gold certified packaging, which is produced by Voegeli AG in Emmental.

Furthermore, Swijin proactively addresses the challenges at the end of the product life cycle. In order to come one step closer to a truly circular economy for functional textiles, Swijin participates in the Yarn-to-Yarn® pilot project of Rheiazymes AG as a lighthouse partner. This biotech solution uses microorganisms and enzymes to generate new starting materials directly from used textiles in a climate-neutral way. When customers return end-of-life Swijin products – for which the company offers incentives – the high-quality monomers can be returned to the supply chain in their original quality: true circularity.

"As an emerging brand, we have both the obligation and the luxury of choosing partners whose vision and values align with our own," says Claudia Glass. "I had a clear understanding of what kind of brand I would buy, but I couldn't find it anywhere. With Swijin, we feel obligated to actually make our values a reality."

Source:

Claudia Glass, Anna Ettlin, EMPA

26.09.2017

TAIWAN'S TEXTILES AND CLOTHING ARE EXPECTING HIGHER DEMAND

  • Production and Exports on a recreation Course
  • Investments in Capacity and Modernization

Taipei (GTAI) - Taiwanese textile and clothing manufacturers see improved sales prospects in 2017 and 2018, following a weak development in the previous year. With its range of functional textiles in particular, the country occupies a position of great importance throughout the world. In order to maintain competitiveness, the sector companies invest in new equipment and product innovations. One of the most important machine suppliers is, among others, Germany in third place behind China and Japan.

  • Production and Exports on a recreation Course
  • Investments in Capacity and Modernization

Taipei (GTAI) - Taiwanese textile and clothing manufacturers see improved sales prospects in 2017 and 2018, following a weak development in the previous year. With its range of functional textiles in particular, the country occupies a position of great importance throughout the world. In order to maintain competitiveness, the sector companies invest in new equipment and product innovations. One of the most important machine suppliers is, among others, Germany in third place behind China and Japan.

Taiwan's textile industry is looking more optimistically on business performance in the current year as well as for 2018. This is attributable to the high level of consumer spending in the most important sales markets, price increases and major international sports events such as the FIFA World Cup and the Winter Olympics in South Korea. The island is the world's leading supplier of functional textiles used in sports and outdoor clothing.

According to the Taiwan Textile Research Institute, this textile sector accounts for about 50 percent of the world's production value of functional textiles. In order to maintain this position, the manufacturers are investing in capacity expansion, new technologies and the development of innovative textiles, while focusing on the diversification at production sites.

Production is recovering

Despite shrinking production development, the number of companies in the textile and clothing industry has risen over the last few years and, according to the Taiwan Textile Federation, at the end of 2016 to 4,361 companies. Of these, 3,205 (2015: 3,163) belonged to the textile segment and 1,156 (2015: 1,144) to the garment sector. The number of employees however is declining, as companies invest in automation.

According to the Ministry of Economic Affairs the production value of the sector fell by 5.9 per cent in 2016 over 2015. The development in the first half of 2017 however indicated that the weakness phase is declining. In particular textile production, which represents the most important area, showed signs of recovery. Here a more efficient utilization in the second half of the year was expected, as inventories are declining and orders are rising.

On the other hand the production of clothing and accessories and the production of synthetic fibers and yarns have shown a further shrinking trend in the recent years. Most of the industrial companies have moved their production towards abroad. At the end of the first half of 2017 the clothing segment accounted for only 4.9 percent of the total apparel segment.

Production (in NT$ billion; change compared to the previous year in %)
  2015 2016 Change 1st half 2017 Change
Fibers and yarns 102.6 91.0 -11.4 45.4 -3.1
Textiles 284.7 272.4 -6.2 131.5 -1.3
Clothing  21.9 21.8 -0.2 9.1 -4.7
Total 409.3 385.2 -5.9 186.1 -1.9
Source: Ministry of Economic Affairs, 2017

Rising foreign trade expected

Export development also offers a better outlook. According to figures for the first six months of 2017 the export value of the textile and clothing sector shrank by only 0.3 per cent. For the full year 2016 the Taiwan Textile Federation statistics show a decline of 8.3% to USD 9.9 billion. The exports of textiles reached a value of USD 6.7 billion.

Exports of textiles and clothing are three times higher than imports. While exports are dominated by textile products with a share of 68%, imports of clothing accounts for 55%. Imports of textiles in 2016 were worth only about USD 427 Million.

Foreign trade in textiles and clothing
(in USD million; change compared to the previous year in %)
  2015 2016 Change 1st half 2017 Change
Import 3,458 3,308 1.0 1,566 0.2
Export 10,804 9,904 -8.3 4,968 -0.3
Source: Taiwan Textile Federation, 2017

Investment activities are growing

According to the reports of at the stock market listed companies, it looks good on the orders received from existing as well as from new customers. As a result, the capacities are expanded, as at the Far Eastern New Century. The company is looking above all at Vietnam, where USD 760 million will be invested in the expansion of a supply chain for textiles and clothing over the next three years.

Other manufacturers such as Eclat and Makalot are also expanding their activities in Vietnam. It also will be invested in Taiwan, where, for example, Eclat Textile wants to spend between USD 26 million and USD 33 million to build new facilities for digital textile products. Makalot Industrial has announced plans to create smart production lines in Vietnam and Taiwan to increase efficiency.

With Shinkong Synthetic Fibers, another large textile producer on the island, wants to expand production. The company plans to increase the production of artificial fibers during 2018 from 50,000 tons to 110,000 tons. This is to serve orders from European and Japanese customers from the automotive sector.

Finishing equipment imports show little dynamics

The investment activities and plans of the textile and clothing manufacturers are expected to lead to increasing finishing equipment imports and exports. However, imports of textile machinery show an overall decline in the first six months of 2017. Only China and Japan, the most important suppliers, were able to boast high growth rates. Germany, the third largest supplier, was much less successful.

Main supplier countries of textile machinery
(in USD millions, change compared to the previous year in %) *)
  2015 2016 Change 1.st Half 2017 Change
Total 383.8 405.4 5.6 190.0 -2.5
PR China 93.6 108.7 16.1 65.5 28.8
Japan 107.3 97.2 -9.4 46.9 20.7
Germany 78.3 82.5 5.4 34.2 -28.4
Italy 20.4 32.8 60.5 11.0 -38.0
USA 11.9 19.2 61.2 5.9 10.5
*) HS-Pos. 8444-8453, ohne 8450; Source: Customs Statistics, Ministry of Finance, 2017

In the first six months of 2017, textile machine exports rose by 7.5 percent to USD 543 million. It is mainly supplied to the overseas production plants in China and Vietnam, to where in this period about USD 111 million was exported. At the third place follow the USA with USD 40 million.

More information:
Asien textile industry
Source:

Jürgen Maurer, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

RUSSIAN GOVERNMENT SETS DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM UNTIL 2025 FOR THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY © Jerzy Sawluk / pixelio.de
28.06.2016

RUSSIAN GOVERNMENT SETS DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM UNTIL 2025 FOR THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

  • Anticrisis Plan provides grants of nearly Ruble 1.5 Billion 

Moscow (GTAI) – In spring 2016 the Russian government has decided a "Strategy for the development of the light industry until 2025" and a "Federal program to support enterprises of the light industry" (anticrisis plan). Hence the Russian textile enterprises should be supported in the crisis. It is the aim of the Ministry of Industry and Trade to double the share of domestic producers on the clothing market from currently 25% to 50% in the year 2025.

  • Anticrisis Plan provides grants of nearly Ruble 1.5 Billion 

Moscow (GTAI) – In spring 2016 the Russian government has decided a "Strategy for the development of the light industry until 2025" and a "Federal program to support enterprises of the light industry" (anticrisis plan). Hence the Russian textile enterprises should be supported in the crisis. It is the aim of the Ministry of Industry and Trade to double the share of domestic producers on the clothing market from currently 25% to 50% in the year 2025.

According to the Ministry of Industry and Trade 14,000 companies (including 200 large enterprises) of the Russian light industry are producing clothing, textiles, footwear and leather goods. They generate annually a turnover of Ruble 270 billion. Of that 653 large and medium and 4,000 small businesses are operating in the yarn and textile industry. Because the purchasing power and consumer demand fell, the light industry slowed its production in 2015 by 12%.

To give the clothing and textile factories more security, the Russian government adopted in spring 2016 a "Strategy for the development of the light industry until 2025" and a "Federal program to support enterprises of the light industry" (anticrisis plan). It is the aim of the Ministry of Industry and Trade to double the share of domestic producers on the clothing market from currently 25% to 50% in the year 2025.  In this context up to 330,000 additional jobs should be achieved.

Anticrisis plan provides subsidies of Ruble 1.475 billion
In the anticrisis plan Ruble 1.475 billion will be granted. This should especially support manufacturers of school uniforms, children's apparel and textile factories that work on government orders. The financial support includes: subsidies for producers of school uniforms for the lower classes made out of Russian worsted fabrics (Ruble 600 million), subsidies for working capital loans to support purchases of raw materials (Ruble 800 million), subsidies for investment loans for technical modernization of enterprises (Ruble 75 million).

As part of the development program for the light industry an own development bank for the textile and clothing industry will be set up – following the example of the Rosselkhozbank. The hitherto in agriculture specialized state leasing company Rosagroleasing should accompany the technical modernization of the textile and clothing companies. In addition, the government ordinance no. 791 prohibits, as in  
the version of February, 17th 2016 on all three government levels (federal, regional, municipal), government procurement of imported textiles and garments when there are offers from domestic Producers.

Industrial parks and clusters for the light industry are growing
In addition, two industrial parks for the clothing and textile industry will be set up in the areas of Ivanovo and St. Petersburg. In addition, a regional cluster of the light industry in the Chelyabinsk region of the South Ural is growing. The fund for the development of the Russian industry promotes investments with low interest rates on credits, for example the project of Praimteks (Primetex) in the Ivanovo region for the production of textiles using digital textile printing (credit: Rubles 466 million rubles).

Further, the domestic producers of clothing and footwear should gain access in future to the funding instruments of the federal association for the development of small and medium-sized enterprises. Critics complain, that the subsidies reach mostly large companies only and above all companies working with government contracts.

Capacity building for chemical fibers 
Export opportunities are seen by the Ministry of Industry in synthetic fibers. In the textile cluster Ivanovo (http://invest-ivanovo.ru/data/prog.pdf) a chemical fiber plant is growing with public aid, scheduled to begin production from 2018. With that 250,000 t chemical fibers would additionally annually be available. Until now both manufac-turers Komitex and Wladimirski Polyefir produce together 33,000 t chemical fibers per anno. Viscose is currently not being produced at all in Russia. The import share of polyester is 74%, of polyamide 88%. 

In future the synthetic fibers may be supplied to BTK Textile and other customers. The production complex of BTK Textile in the textile City Shakhty in the Rostov region, was inaugurated in June 2015. The company manufactures high-tech textiles and knitwear made out of synthetic fibers of which work-wear, sport-wear and ski-wear are being sewn. BTK Textile has fabric production capacities of about 12 million square meters per year, General Director Sergey Bazoev says. Up to now BTK Textile has to buy the synthetic fibers and yarns predominantly in Asia. That could change soon. The BTK Group is the largest Russian manufacturer of men's clothing and uniforms.

Building new production facilities in Russia is not so easy: equipment of domestic manufacturing is not available and imported technology became very expensive due to the Ruble devaluation. So the technical facilities of BKT for manufacturing, impregnation or coating of fabrics and for apparel sewing (in total 250 units) are coming from Italy, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland and France. Long-term loans of over 8 to 12 years are not available and if - only at high interest rates. The lack of a variety of technologies and materials (establishing of extensive fabric and accessories inventories is too expensive) remains the main problem for Russian textile companies. Therefore, the number of new projects in the light industry is not yet clear.
Russian Federation - production of textiles and clothing (change in %)
Description 2015 Change 2015/2014
Cotton fiber (mio. bales) 111.0 4.4
Chemical fibers (mio. bales) 66.0 -4.5
Fabrics (mio. sqm) 4,542 14.7
.thereof from: :    
.Silk (1,000 sqm) 253,0 31.8
.Wool (1,000 sqm) 9.262,0 -20.9
.Linen 25,9 -26,6
.Cotton 1.176,0 -4,5
.Chemical fibers 237,0 14,2
Fabrics made out of other materials 3.084,0 25,1
Fabrics with plastic impregnation (mio. sqm) 32,3 14,6
Bed-linen (mio. pieces) 59,8 -9,6
Carpets (mio. sqm) 22,6 -3,7
Knitwear (1,000 t) 14,2 29,8
Stockings (mio. pair) 199 -5,6
Coats (1,000 pieces) 989 -22,1
Lined jackets (1,000 pieces) 1.887 -45,4
Suits (1,000 pieces) 4.690 -12,6
Men’s jackets and blazer (1,000 pieces) 870 14,1
Women’s coats with fur collar (pieces) 5.543 -46,1
Clothing made out of artificial fur (1,000 pieces) 24,5 21,0
Uniforms and workwear (mio. pieces) 20,7 -8,2
Work- and protective clothing (mio. pieces) 99,8 14,6
Overalls (1,000 pieces) 733 -62,4

Source: Rosstat 2016

Russian Federation - production of textiles and clothing (change in %)
Description 1st Quarter 2016 Change
1st Quarter 2016 / 1st Quarter 2015
Sewing thread made out of synthetic fibers (mio. reels)   14,0 -0,6
Fabrics (mio sqm) 1,2 23,3
Bed linen (mio pieces) 14,7 -7,7
Knitted stockings (mio. pairs) 55,4 34,0
Knitwear (mio. pieces) 24,8 -6,0
Workwear, uniforms (mio. pieces) 31,1 11,2
Coats (1,000 pieces) 269 9,1

Source: Rosstat 2016


Contact addresses:
Ministry of Industry and Trade

Department of Light Industry
Denis Klimentewitsch Pak, Director of the Department
109074 Moskau, Kitajgorodskij proesd 7
Tel.: 007 495/632 8004 (Sekretariat), Fax: -632 88 65
E-Mail: dgrvt@minprom.gov.ru, Internet: http://minpromtorg.gov.ru

(Sub) department of Light Industry: Director: Irina Alekseewna Iwanowa,
Tel.: -632 87 31, -346 04 73; E-Mail: ivanovaia@minprom.gov.ru
Internet: http://minpromtorg.gov.ru/ministry/dep/#!9&click_tab_vp_ind=1
"Strategy for the development of Light Industry until 2025."
http://www.kptf.ru/images/company/Presentation.pdf (Presentation of the strategy)
http://minpromtorg.gov.ru/docs/#!strategiya_razvitiya_legkoy_promyshlennosti_rossii_na_period_do_2025_goda (Text of the strategy and action plan)

Russian Union of Entrepreneurs of Textile and Light Industry
107023 Moskau, uliza Malaja Semenowskaja 3
Tel.: 007 495/280 15 48, Fax: -280 10 85
E-Mail: info@souzlegprom.ru, Internet: http://www.souzlegprom.ru