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25.05.2021

Water Saving Solution for Textile Industry EC Project Waste2Fresh

The Fraunhofer Institute for Biomedical Engineering IBMT, with its long-term expertise in nanotoxicity and nanosafety testing, contributes to a new EC project for water saving solutions for textile industry. This industry uses a vast amount of water for different steps in the textile dyeing process. It also produces a lot of wastewater, which contains a range of chemicals and dyes.

The Fraunhofer Institute for Biomedical Engineering IBMT, with its long-term expertise in nanotoxicity and nanosafety testing, contributes to a new EC project for water saving solutions for textile industry. This industry uses a vast amount of water for different steps in the textile dyeing process. It also produces a lot of wastewater, which contains a range of chemicals and dyes.

Breakthrough innovations are needed in energy intensive industries to recycle water and create closed loops in industrial processes. 20% of global industrial water pollution comes from textile manufacturing. To reduce the high amount of freshwater used in textile industry, the EC-funded Waste2Fresh project will develop a closed-loop process for textile manufacturing factories in which wastewater is collected, recycled and used again. Novel and innovative catalytic degradation approaches with highly selective separation and extraction techniques will be developed, based on nanotechnology. According to the European Commission, such “closed loops“ would significantly reduce the use of fresh water and improve water availability in the relevant EU water catchment areas, as outlined in the Water Framework Directive.

Closed loop recycling system for wastewater from textile manufacturers
Waste2Fresh meets the above challenges and industry needs by developing and demonstrating (to TRL 7) a closed loop recycling system for wastewater from textile manufacturing factories; to counteract freshwater resource scarcities and water pollution challenges exacerbated by energy intensive industries which are major users of fresh water (for e.g., processing, washing, heating, cooling).

The Waste2Fresh technology is developed to reduce current use of freshwater resources and considerably increases the recovery of water, energy and other resources (organics, salts and heavy metals). The result is a 30% increase in resource and water efficiency compared to the state-of-the-art. The system will ultimately lead to considerable environmental improvements and accordingly reduce the EC and global environmental footprint.

Fraunhofer IBMT expertise in human-toxicity and -safety testing
The Fraunhofer Institute for Biomedical Engineering IBMT will be primarily responsible for performing nanotoxicity and nanosafety testing during the whole technology process (from development to demonstration), ensuring that the developed system and processes meet relevant safety regulations. The Fraunhofer IBMT collaborates with all consortium partners developing and using to develop approaches for ensuring that the developed nanomaterial-based components meet relevant health and safety standards during their use.

For the hazard assessment of the developed nanomaterials, the Fraunhofer IBMT will perform a set of in vitro toxicity studies using commercially available human cell lines. The results of this toxicity studies will be the basis for the development of relevant safety procedures for handling and using the developed recycling technology.

 

Project funding: H2020-EU.2.1.5.3. - Sustainable, resource-efficient and low-carbon technologies in energy-intensive process industries

Duration: 12/2020- 11/2023

Coordinator:
KONYA TEKNIK UNIVERSITESI, Turkey

Project partners:
CENTRE FOR PROCESS INNOVATION LIMITED LBG, United Kingdom
ERAK GIYIM SANAYI VE TICARET ANONIM SIRKETI, Turkey
FRAUNHOFER GESELLSCHAFT ZUR FOERDERUNG DER ANGEWANDTEN FORSCHUNG E.V., Fraunhofer-Institut für Biomedizinische Technik IBMT, Germany
INNOVATION IN RESEARCH & ENGINEERING SOLUTIONS, Belgium
INSTYTUT MOLEKULYARNOI BIOLOGII I GENETYKY NAN UKRAINY, Ukraine
L'UREDERRA, FUNDACION PARA EL DESARROLLO TECNOLOGICO Y SOCIAL, Spain
NANOFIQUE LIMITED, United Kingdom
NANOGENTECH LTD, United Kingdom
PCI MEMBRANES SPOLKA Z OGRANICZONA ODPOWIEDZIALNOSCIA, Poland
STIFTELSE CSDI WATERTECH, Norway
THE OPEN UNIVERSITY, United Kingdom
ULUDAG CEVRE TEKNOLOJILERI ARGE MERKEZI SANAYI VE TICARET LIMITED SIRKETI, Turkey
UNIVERSIDAD INDUSTRIAL DE SANTANDER, Colombia
UNIVERSITA DEGLI STUDI DI TRENTO, Italy
VEREALA GMBH, Switzerland
VSI SOCIALINES INOVACIJOS SVARESNEI APLINKAI, Lithiani

(c) Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH
30.04.2019

SUSTAINABILITY A MAJOR TOPIC AT TECHTEXTIL AND TEXPROCESS

"Sustainability at Techtextil" and "Sustainability at Texprocess" are the two topics by which these leading international trade fairs for technical textiles and non-wovens, and for the processing of textile and flexible materials, will be explicitly turning their focus for the first time onto their exhibitors' approaches to sustainability. To this will be added a broad complementary programme on this topic. Among those contributing will be major players in the industry, such as Kering, Lenzing and Zalando.

"Sustainability at Techtextil" and "Sustainability at Texprocess" are the two topics by which these leading international trade fairs for technical textiles and non-wovens, and for the processing of textile and flexible materials, will be explicitly turning their focus for the first time onto their exhibitors' approaches to sustainability. To this will be added a broad complementary programme on this topic. Among those contributing will be major players in the industry, such as Kering, Lenzing and Zalando.

Fibres made of recycled polyester, bio-based high-tech textiles, waterconserving dyeing and finishing processes, functional and work clothing, using little or no solvents and adhesives: in the field of technical textiles, and when processing textile and flexible materials, more and more firms are adopting approaches to greater sustainability. Through "Sustainability and Techtextil" and "Sustainability at Texprocess" the leading international trade fairs, from 14 to 17 May, will be demonstrating exactly these approaches taken by their exhibitors. In addition, numerous event formats will be taking up the topic of sustainability at both fairs.

Fair guide for selected exhibitors
In the run-up to Techtextil and Texprocess exhibitors at both fairs were able to submit their approaches and evidence of their work on every aspect of sustainability to the fairs' organisers. An independent, international jury of experts on sustainability assessed the submissions, in accordance with the relevance and validity of current national and international product-sustainability labels, such as currently mainly Bluesign, Cradle-to-Cradle, EU Eco Label, ISO 14001, GOTS, GRS as well as SteP by Oeko-Tex.

Overall, 47 firms were selected, including 44 exhibitors at Techtextil and three at Texprocess. Visitors who are interested will find the selected firms in their own Fair Guide, which will be available at the Fair, via filter function under "Sustainability" in the online visitor search facility, and on both fairs' apps. In addition, the exhibitors so selected will be publicizing their participation at their exhibition stands.

Members of the international jury of experts: Chairman: Max Gilgenmann, Consulting Service International Ltd. (Germany and China); Claudia Som, Empa (Switzerland); Jan Laperre, Centexbel (Belgium); Heike Illing-Günther, Textile Institute of Saxony (Sächsisches Textilinstitut e.V., Germany); Karla Magruder, Fabrikology (USA); Lauren Zahringer, SAC Social Apparel Coalition (Netherlands).

Techtextil Forum featuring theme of sustainability
Taking "Towards sustainability" as its motto, the Techtextil Forum on 14 May between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. will be providing a series of contributions devoted exclusively to sustainable textile innovations. Chaired by Braz Costa, managing director of the Portuguese technology centre CITEVE, among the topics on the programme will be: textile recycling (TWD Fibres, Velener Textil), sustainable construction with wool (Minet S.A., Romania), sustainable textile coatings (Centexbel), biopolymers (RWTH Aachen University), traceability of GMO-free cotton (Hohenstein Institute) and low-cost, bio-based carbon fibres (Jules Verne Research Institute, France).

Techtextil Innovation Award
For the first time the Techtextil Innovation Award will be presented to two firms in the category of sustainability. The winners will be announced and the awards presented on the first day of the fair during the opening ceremony. During the whole time of the fair visitors will also be able to find out about the prize-winners and their award-winning projects at the Techtextil Innovation Award Exhibition Area in Hall 4.2.

Texprocess Forum with branch of Fashionsustain Conference
Through a branch of Fashionsustain Berlin, Messe Frankfurt's conference on every aspect of sustainable textile innovations, the Texprocess Forum on the morning of the 14 May will be devoted exclusively to the theme of sustainability in the textile and fashion industries in all its aspects. The first keynote, "Sustainable innovation – a matter of survival", will come from Micke Magnusson, co-founder of the Swedish start-up We are Spindye. Next, posing the question "Is Sustainability the Key to Textile Innovations?", will come a discussion by leaders in the industry such as Clariant Plastics and Coatings, Indorama, Lenzing, Perpetual Global, Procalçado S.A., Kering und Zalando. Fashionsustain will be chaired among others by Karla Magruder, founder of Fabrikology International.

Innovation Roadshow features sustainable footwear production
Next at the Fashionsustain Conference fibre manufacturer Lenzing, knitting-machinery producer Santoni and shoe-component manufacturer Procalçado S.A. will be presenting the Innovation Roadshow, entitled "The Future of Eco-Conscious Footwear Manufacturing." The roadshow will be supported by the Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network. It will feature examples of the sustainable production process of a shoe, thus demonstrating how a fundamental change to sustainability can already be a reality in the fashion and textile industries today. The panel will be chaired by Marte Hentschel, founder of Sourcebook, the B2B network for the fashion industry.

Vietnam´s Grament Industry experiences Investment Boom ©Beckmann Agency
12.04.2016

VIETNAM'S GARMENT INDUSTRY EXPERIENCES INVESTMENT BOOM

  • FTA attracts Manufacturers
  • Proportion of local added Value should rise

Hong Kong (gtai) - Vietnam is one of the main production sites of the clothing industry. Already in recent years the country had attracted buyers from around the world. In 2014 textiles and clothing shared 22% of the total merchandise exports. According to the state owned VINATX in 2015 Vietnam was the fourth largest apparel exporter in the world. The through the FTA with the EU and the Pacific neighbors expected growth requires investment in the supply industry.

  • FTA attracts Manufacturers
  • Proportion of local added Value should rise

Hong Kong (gtai) - Vietnam is one of the main production sites of the clothing industry. Already in recent years the country had attracted buyers from around the world. In 2014 textiles and clothing shared 22% of the total merchandise exports. According to the state owned VINATX in 2015 Vietnam was the fourth largest apparel exporter in the world. The through the FTA with the EU and the Pacific neighbors expected growth requires investment in the supply industry.

In 2015 the Vietnamese garment exports amounted to about USD 27 billion. Estimates of the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) show they will increase by 8% in 2016. Nearly USD 30 billion of sector products would then be exported and assure Vietnam a ranking among the four largest exporting countries. The world market however is stagnating. The sector contributes nearly 10% to the industrial added value of the country, 2.5 million people are employed.

As the most important export market remains the United States. According to Vinatex the export to the US rose by 13% in 2015. The group dominates the textile production in the country, including companies like Garment 10, Phong Phu Textile and Garment Corporation, Viet Tien Garment and Hoa Tho Textile and Garment. Vinatex itself exported products worth of USD 3.5 billion, representing an increase of 10%.

TPP promises benefits

The sector has high hopes on the in February 2016 signed FTA Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP), in which next to the USA, Japan and Vietnam and eleven Pacific Room states arranged added tariff reductions and improved market access. If the ratification process in all countries will be successful, the agreement would enter into force in February 2018. Analysts show that Vietnam would become one of the main winners, among others due to the lowest labor cost in comparison of all other involved countries. The agreement therefore is welcomed by the majority of the population.

Pre-products have to be imported

According to experts the competitiveness of Vietnam will be increased especially in the area of textiles and clothing. About 70% of the textile exports will be delivered to TPP member countries. Despite the annual growth rates of 15 to 20% the value adding in the country remained low. Imports of raw materials and accessories are high and totaled to USD 16.5 billion in 2015. 90% of the 5,028 textile factories in Vietnam (end of 2013) are apparel manufacturers, that mean sewing operations. By contrast there are just four cotton-processing and two synthetic fibers producing companies.   

Imports of textile industry (in USD million, annual change in %)
  2014 2015 Change
Cotton 1,443 1,623 12.5
Fibers 1,559 1,515 -2.8
Fabrics 9,428 10,197 8.2
Accessories 3,031 3,193 5.3
Total 15,461 16,528 6.9

Source: Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (Vitas)

The sector is facing a challenge: TPP offers the free imports only if 55% of the value is provided in the member states. For the textile sector this is called the "Yarn Forward Rule", that means everything following the yarn. In Vietnam the proportion of the added value currently stands at 25%.

The text of the agreement is online available: (http://www.tpp.mfat.govt.nz/text). Chapter 4 deals with the textile and clothing sector and contains important annexes to the rules of origin. TPP is expected to attract investments into the country, as the value supply chain is incomplete: yarns and fabrics are mostly imported from East Asian countries.

Value adding rules require investment

Also the free trade agreement between the EU and Vietnam, agreed on August 4th 2015, should push the exchange of commodities. The share of the EU clothing imports from Vietnam is only 3%. Thus the country ranks as the sixth supplier. In the United States, Japan and South Korea Vietnam, however, is the second largest clothing supplier.

Following ratification of TPP an abolishment of 99% of all tariffs would follow.  Textiles from Vietnam would then be duty-free within a maximum period of seven years. For that TPP
defines clear rules of origin: (http://trade.ec.europa.eu/doclib/press/index.cfm?id=1437).

If investments would flow into the country and strengthen the supply chain, the value of clothing exports from Vietnam could be doubled until 2020 - so bold estimates.   Then the annual production of yarns should reach 2 million tons, the amount of fabrics 2 billion square meters and that of clothing 6 billion pieces. Following the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS)  the export value then should be between USD 45 to 50 billion. This requires new textile machinery. So far, mainly Chinese products were in demand, but also for German suppliers the opportunities emerge.

Production capacity of the Vietnamese textile industry
Sector Annual capacity
Cotton ginning (1,000 t) 70
Synthetic fibers (1,000 t) 400
Filament yarn (1,000 t) 182
Spinning (1,000 t) 900
Weaving (Mio. m²) 800
Knitting (1,000 t) 110
Nonwovens (1,000 t) 16
Dyeing and finishing (Mio. m²) 1200
Toweling (1,000 t) 62
Clothing(Mio. Stück)  4000

Source: Vitas

However, many sector representatives in Vietnam see TPP also critical, because by the agreement large new market participants could intensify competition. The small and medium companies are hardly competitive due to their outdated technology, lack of capital and low know-how. They demand government aid in the form of tax breaks and subsidies for land. The Bank for Investment and Development of Vietnam has already provided USD 2 billion for the support of the industry for the next five years.    

Investment in regional centers

Large investments are happening already now: The TAL Group from Hong Kong, one of the largest owner-managed apparel producers, has invested USD 600 million in factories in the Dai An Industry Zone in Hai Duong Province, especially for yarn dyeing and finishing. Haputex Development, which is also from Hong Kong, has built with up to USD 120 million in the province of Binh Duong on a twelve hectare site a Weaving mill which should go into operation 2016.  There also the South Korean company Kyungbang is building a spinning mill for USD 40 million. The Texhong Textile and Garment Group is building with USD 300 million a yarn factory in Quang Ninh. And in Nam Dinh the Yulun Jiangsu Textile Group, a state-owned company from China, is building with USD 68 million a factory for the manufacturing and dyeing of yarn.

Investments are mainly attracted by the regions Ninh Binh, Hue, Binh Duong and Ham Dinh, as well as the cost favorable  Mekong Delta. New target regions are at the borders with Laos and Cambodia, such as the area Tay Nguyen. As the largest Vietnamese group also Vinatex invests in new capacities and announces in convincing interviews to reach by 2020 a local added value part of 65% in final finished products.

Target markets of Vietnamese apparel exports (in USD million, annual change in %)
  2014 2015 Change
USA 9.841 10.984 11,6
EU 2.261 3.325 47,1
Japan 2.092 2.163 3,4
Korea (Rep.) 2.092 2.163 3,4
Total 24.692 27.021 9,4

Source: Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS)

Contact address:
Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS)
2nd Floor, 32 Trang Tien Str., Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam
Tel.: 0084 4/39 36 41 34; Fax: -39 34 98 42
Email: info@vietnamtextile.org.vn; Internet: http://www.vietnamtextile.org.vn