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Supply chains in Asia are in motion © Tokamuwi/ pixelio.de
08.03.2016

SUPPLY CHAINS IN ASIA ARE IN MOTION

  • Vietnam is largest beneficiary
  • Relocation closer to sales markets

Hong Kong (gtai) - For global consumer product manufacturers, Asia has developed an important role as a procurement region. Large parts of production have been displaced in recent decades into the region and here traditionally mainly to China. The rising costs in China however lead to a strategy adjustment. Thus the production moved on to cheaper locations and a shift back closer to the end customer began. Free trade arrangements support this trend.

  • Vietnam is largest beneficiary
  • Relocation closer to sales markets

Hong Kong (gtai) - For global consumer product manufacturers, Asia has developed an important role as a procurement region. Large parts of production have been displaced in recent decades into the region and here traditionally mainly to China. The rising costs in China however lead to a strategy adjustment. Thus the production moved on to cheaper locations and a shift back closer to the end customer began. Free trade arrangements support this trend.

Labor costs in China will not move down again. Even when the economic growth increasingly weakens, China's coastal regions are already often too expensive for wage-intensive productions. The world's largest location of the manufacturing sector will anyway leave its dependence of exports and will generate more growth through domestic consumption. The remaining companies are therefore increasingly focused on Chinese customers. Has the textile industry heard the signals already several years ago and shifted away, now the electronics companies have started to search.

But – the relocation of production is not so easy, the experts agreed upon at the discussion panel Shifting Supply Chains in Asia on the Asian Financial Forum (AFF) in Hong Kong. Because no country, except India, offers such a workforce. But neither the infrastructure and the investment climate can match, nor the country has any interest in low-production stages. Furthermore China has set up a supply industry without any comparison.

Relocation trends slow down

Even Bangladesh, established for a long time as a cheap location for clothes, is losing its attractiveness - experts say. Besides fundamentally difficult production conditions especially scandals like collapsing factories are responsible. No western clothing manufacturer likes to be associated with that repute today. While Indonesia was generally judged for being rather little investment friendly, the Philippines would provide a better reputation than years ago. So in addition to numerous Japanese producers also German companies have moved from southern China to the special areas of the Philippines.

Due to wage cost increases by an average of 15% per year, China with it’s the low-wage area has catapulted itself in a large extent out of the market. In times of rising productivity this was compensated for a while but at last the model came to its limits. The empire of the middle will therefore make the leap to a consumptionbased growth based on production of high-tech and on the provision of services. It is still
unclear whether this leap across the "middleincome trap" will succeed. Many emerging countries are caught in this trap, and the growth is flagging.

German buyers order less in China

Accordingly German retailers are increasingly reducing their imports from China and buy more and more in other countries. This is the result of a member survey of the Foreign Trade Association of German Retailers (AVE), at which for the most part textile and shoe retailers participated. 80% of the respondents have already reduced their import volume from China in 2015, 90% of the companies said they are
planning to source from other supply regions. The merchants are seeing a shift to countries like Myanmar (78%), Bangladesh (67%) and Vietnam (56%).

Vietnam, which already benefited in recent years from the relocation, was still recommended on the AFF as a top location. The country with the highest economic growth in Southeast Asia in 2015 would have risen in the 1st half of 2015 to the fourth-largest exporter of textiles, the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) analyzed. For shoes it is already the third largest supplier worldwide. Based on mega investments from Samsung, now the electronics industry came out of the starting blocks and should attract more activities. Experts cite especially the mixture of young, growing populations with low labor costs as an important locational advantage.

Vietnam benefits from Free Trade Agreements (FTA)

A thrust Vietnam's attractiveness currently receives through free trade agreements which are in a final stage. So a free trade agreement with the European Union was signed in December 2015 which was followed early February 2016 by the Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP). The latter agreement, which includes next to ten other Pacific neighbors the United States, should bring a large benefit for Vietnam. For the Vietnamese consumer goods manufacturers the US is the most important market, the large retailers in the United States can move their procurements very fast.

As an underdeveloped member Vietnam is likely to get larger portions of the value chain in the textile and electronics area at the ratification (and even before). The country is still missing a developed supplier structure. This is just happening to be built in the textile sector, there are investments in capacity for yarns, fabrics and dyeing going on. For Samsung, the largest foreign investor, all components are still coming
from China. And only when a large proportion of the added value comes from TPP member states, the low duty will become applicable.

While the purchasing power is not quite so big in Europe, costs play an important role also there. But next to it the control of the supply chain and the flexibility has developed a greater role, rapid changes of trends and collections are determined by customers and the Internet. Therefore also here a shift back, closer to the markets, has begun. Romania and Bulgaria have established themselves in the middle of
Europe as a "low-wage locations". But even there the population is characterized by aging. Accordingly labor forces will become scare and wages will rise. Ukraine is traded as a new location.

Africa still with small potential

Little potential the experts from the Supply Chain Panels evidence the location of sub-Saharan Africa. This was tested by some buyers or producers, but the results would not be convincing. The views however diverge. Some Chinese companies are already partly on site and American manufacturers are monitoring the further development. So, for example, the VF Corporation, the largest denim retailer in the world, is buying in Africa. Only Ethiopia would have potential - according to a representative. But the infrastructure, investment climate and working morale could not be comparable.

So - basically serious alternatives to the established locations are lacking. Therefore, due to the scarcity of labor, costs and thus the final prices will rise. Even in Vietnam the minimum wage increased by 15% in 2015. But when it will be hardly possible to turn at the purchase screw, the companies need to position themselves better in marketing and sales, so a large clothing buyer. Therefore social media must be used in order to come closer to the customer and, for example, to develop individualization as a selling point.

The buying hotspots for clothes for the upcoming years (survey early 2015)
Country Named among the Top-3
Bangladesh 48%
Vietnam 33%
India 30%
Myanmar 30%
Turkey 30%
PR China 23%
Ethiopia 13%
Indonesia 10%
Egypt 5%
Sri Lanka 5%
Tunesia 5%

Source: McKinsey survey of chief purchasing managers

CZECH TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY INVESTS © W. Behrends/ pixelio.de
01.03.2016

CZECH TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY INVESTS

  • 2015 Sales reached eight-year high
  • Particularly manufacturers of technical textiles successful

Prague (gtai) - The Czech textile and clothing industry is still on the upswing. Particularly in niche segments and with technical textiles the manufacturers achieve rising revenues since years. The investment climate in the sector therefore has been improved, the equipment suppliers are benefitting. German manufacturers of machinery for the textile and clothing industry were able to expand their exports to the Czech Republic in 2015 by one fifth.

  • 2015 Sales reached eight-year high
  • Particularly manufacturers of technical textiles successful

Prague (gtai) - The Czech textile and clothing industry is still on the upswing. Particularly in niche segments and with technical textiles the manufacturers achieve rising revenues since years. The investment climate in the sector therefore has been improved, the equipment suppliers are benefitting. German manufacturers of machinery for the textile and clothing industry were able to expand their exports to the Czech Republic in 2015 by one fifth.

With Czech Crowns 52.4 billion (Kc; EUR 1.9 bn) the Czech textile industry achieved so much revenue in 2015 as not anymore in the last eight years. According to the statistics office the clothing manufacturers output rose by 11%, that of textile manufacturing by 3%. Very good filled are the order books. For companies in the clothing industry the volume of new orders rose by over 13% in 2015, in the textile factories
by 4%.

According to the announcement of the professional association ATOK, the sector would have developed even better, if the growth markets in Asia and Africa would have not weakened. But fortunately the loss became offset by the traditional markets Germany, Italy, Poland, Slovakia, Austria and France. According to ATOK the textile segment of the Czech Republic exported goods worth equivalent of almost EUR 2.5 billion in 2015, corresponding to a trade surplus of almost EUR 30 million. In clothing, the country recorded a negative balance. Here goods were imported for Euro 2 billion and exported of EUR 1.3 Billion.

Sales Development of the Czech Textile and Clothing Industry
Year Sales in Kc bn. Change to previous year (in %)
2007 55.0 1.5
2008 46.1 -16.2
2009 41.1 -10.8
2010 41.3 0.5
2011 46.2 11.9
2012 45.9 -0.6
2013 47.1 2.6
2014 51.0 8.3
2015 52.4 2.7
2007 55.0 1.5

Source: Association of Textile, Garment and Leather Industry (ATOK, http://www.atok.cz)

Particularly in niche segments the clothing manufacturers can maintain themselves in their position. For example Triola from the northern Bohemia Horni Jiretin specializes in lingerie and successfully with oversizes. Also manufacturers like Timo, Pleas, Upavan or Linia can exist with underwear products on the market. According to reports from the business paper Hospodarske noviny Timo sells 200.000 pc. per year. The company offers among others prosthetic lingerie against breat tumors.In the next two years the family operation will invest more than EUR 700,000 in new technologies at the production site Litomerice (North Bohemia).

Hats and hoods are demanded in 30 countries

Another family company, Kama from Prague, specializes in headwear. With hats, scarves, headbands, gloves or hoods it makes now more than EUR 1 million per year and delivers to 30 countries. In Moravia-Silesia Sky Paragliders from Frydlant nad Ostravici invests around EUR 4 million in a weaving mill including a research center to develop new materials. The company produces emergency parachutes and rescue systems and belongs with annual revenues of EUR 2.7 million (2014) to the top ten manufacturers worldwide. It processes 200 kilometers of fabrics annually.

Thanks to favorable wages and the proximity to areas with good purchasing power smaller suppliers of made to measure products developed well. The company Janek from Roznov in Zlin produces,for example, 30,000 individually tailored shirts per year. Also suits and costumes belong to the assortment. Janes buy the yarn from a German yarn manufacturer which produces in the Czech Republic.

Czech Republic's largest textile and clothing manufacturers (selection, sales in million Kc) 1)
Company/location Product portfolio Sales
2013
Sales
2014
Change
1)
Webseite
Borgers CS/Plzen Nonwovens for
automotives
5.038 10.879 115,9 http://borgers.cz
Juta/Dvur Kralovenad Labem Nonwovens for
automotives
5.568 6.618 18,8 http://www.juta.cz
Nova Mosilana /Brno Fancy dress fabrics 2.952 3.285 11,3 http://www.novamosilana.cz
Pegas Nonwovens/Znojmo Nonwovens 2.273 2.388 5,1 http://www.pegas.cz
Kordarna Plus/Velka nad Velickou Corduroy fabrics
Technical Textiles
for conveyors
2.195 2.287 4,2 http://www.kordarna.cz
Veba, textilni zavody/Broumov Home – and Clothing
fabrics, Brocat
2.124 2.160 1,7 http://www.veba.cz/cs/
Johnson Controls/
Strakonice 2)
Seatcovers for
automotives
1.722 1.865 8,3 http://www.johnsoncontrols.cz
Fibertex Nonwovens/
Svitavy
Nonwovens 958 1.128 17,7 http://www.fibertex.com
Pleas / Havlickuv
Brod
Under – and Nightwear 1.073 1.123 4,6 http://www.pleas.cz
Mehler Texnologies/
Lomnice nad
Popelkou 3)
Fabrics for tents,
boats, canvas, sunumbrellas
895 975 8,9 http://www.mehlertexnologies.
cz
Nejdecka cesarna
vlny/Nejdek 4)
Processing of rawwool 800 692 -13,5 http://www.ncv.cz
Lanex/Bolatice Ropes, threats,
artificial turf
627 670 6,7 http://www.lanex.cz
Trevos/Kostalov Polypropylen-
Staple-fiber
576 639 10,9 http://www.monticekia.cz
Tessitura Monti Cekia/
Borovnice u Stare
Paky
Cotton shirt fabrics 609 568 -6,7 http://www.monticekia.cz
Svitap J.H.J./Svitavy Tents, canvas, Microfibers,
Filtration
497 436 -12,3 http://www.svitap.cz

1) Change 2014 / 113 in%; 2) Fiscal year October 2012, 2013 till September 2013, 2014; 3) December 2012, 2013 till November 2013, 2014; 4) April 2013, 2014 till March 2014, 2015
Sources: Annual company reports, Trade register, Hospodarske noviny, Magazine Ekonom, CzechInvest, Association ATOK

The most actively trading companies in the textile sector are producing mostly for industrial consumers. Largest industry representative is the automotive supplier Borgers from Bocholt, which produces textile moldings, paneling, insulation and curtains for vehicles at four locations near Plzen. The second largest textile company Juta achieves half of its revenue from construction materials such as drainage mats, erosion control fabric or roof insulation. Moreover Juta makes a good business with packaging nets for potatoes or Christmas trees. One other growth area is artificial turf. The company invests nearly EUR 20 million every year, mainly in new production equipment.

Textile Machinery ordered for 250 m Euro

Other companies are expanding too. The manufacturer of workwear Waibel has expanded its site in2015. In Zdar nad Sazavou near Jihlava own collections and custom made programs are being manufactured. Clothing manufacturer Pleas invests annually over EUR 1 million in its equipment. The company belongs to the top 10 of the sector and produces annually 15 million pieces nightwear for the brands Schiesser and Pleas. The German machinery manufacturer Mayer & Cie. builds a factory for knitting machines in Vsetin. The production is expected to comence in summer 2016. The machines are designed for large manufactures particularly in Asia.

Import of important textile machinery to the Czech Republic ( EUR 1,000)
Maschinery group / HS-Position 2014 2015 Veränderung in %
Jet-spinning machines / 8444 177 15.369 8.583,1
..from Germany 59 9.829 16.559,3
Spinning machines / 8445 12.780 8.838 -30,8
..from Germany 6.591 5.017 -23,9
Weaving machines / 8446 13.357 12.778 -4,3
..from Germany 7.498 2.166 -71,1
Knitting machines / 8447 10.556 11.332 7,4
..from Germany 2.872 6.092 112,1
Auxiliary machines / 8448 75.082 72.178 -3,9
..from Germany 48.245 51.765 7,3
Machines for felting and nonwovens / 8449 3.349 16.306 386,9
..from Germany 949 6.741 610,3
Cleaning-, dying and ironing machines / 8451 83.874 105.825 26,2
..from Germany 44.671 50.234 12,5
Sewing machines / 8452 14.718 17.834 21,2
..from Germany 4.780 6.319 32,2
Machines for leather and fur processing resp. footwear production /
8453
2.867 3.704 29,2
..from Germany 278 347 24,8
Total 216.760 264.164 21,9
..from Germany 115.943 138.510 19,5

Source: Czech Statistical Office

Rapidly growing German Fashion Export to China © Maclatz/ pixelio.de
09.02.2016

RAPIDLY GROWING GERMAN FASHION EXPORT TO CHINA

  • Volumes considerably upgradeable
  • Italy loses Top Position to North Korea

Beijing (gtai) - Chinese consumers appreciate German goods from cars to saucepan. Fashion "Made in Germany" is only now discovered. German providers benefit from the good image of their country of origin - and from the desire of the growing middle class to afford something "good". Local production usually has a rather bad reputation. However there is a lack of presence, German brand names are hardly known. Despite the high growth rates the sales potential is by far not yet exhausted.

  • Volumes considerably upgradeable
  • Italy loses Top Position to North Korea

Beijing (gtai) - Chinese consumers appreciate German goods from cars to saucepan. Fashion "Made in Germany" is only now discovered. German providers benefit from the good image of their country of origin - and from the desire of the growing middle class to afford something "good". Local production usually has a rather bad reputation. However there is a lack of presence, German brand names are hardly known. Despite the high growth rates the sales potential is by far not yet exhausted.

German Fashion in the PRC is coming: according to Chinese custom statistics in the first ten months of 2015  Chinese purchases from Germany of knitted and crocheted clothing and garments (HS-Pos. 61) rose by a whopping 31.8% and by 5.1 % in other apparel and clothing accessories (HS-Pos. 62). This is all the more remarkable because the total imports for clothes grew in the same period by 3.6% only, - and China across all sectors even recorded a stately import reduction by 15.7%.

But a sales volume of USD 5.6 million USD of a total import of products of these HS headings of USD 4.9 billion is rather negligible. In fact, German fashion brands, with a few exceptions such as Hugo Boss and Escada, are yet barely visible in the PRC. A really good positioning was reached by Adidas only.

Main delivering country for the PRC was Italy until September 2015, its highly quality textiles and clothing are greatly appreciated. It shipped in the first ten months of 2015 sector products worth USD 688.7 million. However, given the ongoing austerity and anti-corruption policy the Italian imports tend downwards significantly (-11.6% compared to the same period last year).

Luxury purchases are shifted abroad

The Shanghai Daily wrote in October 2015, Chinese luxury purchases have been shifted to abroad at two-thirds since 2012. In Paris, Milan, London, New York or Tokyo one can buy anonymously and also cheaper than on the mainland. In addition, there is a trend away from the "quasi everywhere" available "big names" to new, less known, more individual designers.

At least there seems to be a still unabated propensity abroad: For example, the Financial Services Global Blue reported an increase in tax refunds of Chinese tourists in August 2015 of 65.6% (July: + 73%) compared to the same month of the previous year.

Detached from the top position was Italy in October from Korea (Dem. P.R.) with USD 663.9 million. On the third and fourth place follow Vietnam (USD 587.5 million) and Bangladesh (USD 364.7 million). The success of these three countries is probably due to an already shifted production capacity of Chinese manufacturers, which bring their products back to China to sell them there.

Chinese imports of clothing
(in USD million, change in % compared to the previous year period)
HS-Pos. Designation 2012 2013 2014 January til
October 2015
Change
61 Apparel and clothing accessories, knitted or crocheted, coming from 1,344 1,666 2,067 1,894 9.9
  .Vietnam 87 169 242 280 39.9
  .Italy 231 267 296 226 -8.2
  .Bangladesch 63 89 144 146 20.2
  .Korea (Dem.) 67 88 119 139 34.3
  .Germany 5 2 2 2 31.8
62 Apparel and clothing accessories, not knitted or crocheted from 2,664 3,141 3,559 3,034 0.1
  .Korea (Dem.VR) 373 499 622 525 -4.8
  .Italy 514 577 631 463 -11.6
  .Vietnam 154 236 310 307 18.9
  .Bangladesch 90 142 191 219 30.7
  .Germany 5 4 4 3 5.1
  Total 4,009 4,807 5,626 4,927 3.6

Source: China Customs

As in many other areas of consumer goods in the “Dress-Question” Germany does not utilize its opportunities on the Chinese market. According to sector insiders “here could happen much more" - not least because of the excellent reputation that the label "Made in Germany" enjoys among Chinese consumers.

The recommendation is - and this was repeated on the last "Chic" once again -   to see China not only as a procurement market but increasingly as a sales market too. In the words of a German leather jacket provider: "Twenty  years ago we bought leather from China, now we sell leather to China."

"Light Luxury" demanded

The "big" Italian or French brands such as Gucci, Armani or Chanel remain inaccessible for the most. Fashion "Made in Germany" can cover a niche in the medium price range that is affordable for the growing urban middle class, that also would like to buy "something international" and has come to appreciate German products from automobiles to saucepan. For them German fashion is not for luxury, but for good execution respectively processing and good material. At the same time other competitors are active in this field. In a similar notch for example, the Dutch men’s wear supplier Suitsupply abuts, which opened in Shanghai in the summer. 

Fake products are not an alternative for this clientele. In fact, the Chinese consumer does not make its decision for a German product due to the low price, but rather by the desire to acquire a piece of excellent quality. This then may cost something and stands out from the mainstream, whether through innovative materials, unusual combinations of materials, individual or humorous cuts or by a special design. Increasingly demanded are accessories such as matching belts, bags or shoes. As a micro-trend in the younger generation applies also wearing hats - and who wants to leave is going to the popular Octoberfest in a real Dirndl.

Sales price at least three times the purchase price

German manufacturers take advantage from the "demographic factor": the Chinese society is aging rapidly. Accordingly the demand is shifting away from "more funky and young" goods towards timeless, trendy-fashionable, quality orientated clothing, which then may be slightly more expensive - and it de facto also is. Experiential German import goods become more expensive due to transportation, customs and usual trading margin up to at least three times the buying price.

However, as successful niche products yes, - for the masses German goods therefore are not suitable. This may apply to lovingly designed eco-slippers as well as for trendy hats or quality handbags in a "Light-luxury segment". Not seldom the one or the other gap in the market can only be detected by local presence - so for example - each country has its own "house shoe culture", with which one must learn to deal with as a provider.

According to the experience of many exhibitors, sometimes Chinese buyers like with high standards masterfully crafted products even more than the Germans themselves. Moreover it is advantageous, to be able to offer customers next to the actual product, "a story". So it absolutely impresses, when a company is family-run by the fourth generation - or high craftsmanship can be documented with a film.

Chinese textile and clothing industry © Walter Babiak / pixelio.de
02.02.2016

CHINA'S TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY IS ORIENTATING TOWARDS NEW

  • Creating local branding
  • Gradual relocation towards abroad

Beijing (gtai) - Away from cheap mass production or relocation are the alternatives for the Chinese textile and clothing industry. A domestic "Go-West" does probably not pay off in the long term, the migration however to Southeast Asia has already started. At the same time German quality suppliers expect new sales opportunities if the companies strengthen their competitive position through more quality. This became clear at the last "Intertextile" October 2015 in Shanghai.

  • Creating local branding
  • Gradual relocation towards abroad

Beijing (gtai) - Away from cheap mass production or relocation are the alternatives for the Chinese textile and clothing industry. A domestic "Go-West" does probably not pay off in the long term, the migration however to Southeast Asia has already started. At the same time German quality suppliers expect new sales opportunities if the companies strengthen their competitive position through more quality. This became clear at the last "Intertextile" October 2015 in Shanghai.

The Chinese textile and clothing industry is under massive pressure of costs. Away from cheap mass production or relocation is the need of the hour. Until now the industry is primarily located at the Pearl River and the attached Yangtze River Delta, where wages on average are the highest nationwide. According to the China National Garment Association (CNGA) about 70% of the production volume account for the five provinces of Shandong, Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian and Guangdong.

Supported by the policy is the move to the more favorable central and western provinces. This happens not least to the preservation of local jobs and the development of the far less booming regions of the country. In this sense not only the CNGA endorses the relocation of clothing manufacturers to Xinjiang. In the western province 30% of the cotton of the country is grown, which with 6.2 million tons in 2014 is the largest cotton producing area in the world. After association investments the authorities are planning investments amounting to USD 3.2 billion, amongst other things for the establishment of "Textile Industry Parks".

Another attempt to shift the Chinese textile industry from the coast to the west, represents the Ningxia Ecological Rextile Industrial Demonstration Park, which was opened in December 2014. According to China.org.cn by 2020 here about 50,000 people work should be working there in the textile industry.

"Go West" is not attractive for private textile and clothing companies

To which extent these efforts will be successful remains to be seen. However, said by a Chinese businesswoman, "Go West" at best will be a medium-term solution, because also there sooner or later the wages would rise (not to mention the already there noticeable higher logistics and other costs). If to move, then only to permanently cheaper overseas locations. A migration to Vietnam, Bangladesh or Cambodia is already going on. But the fact is that so far a large displacement wave - at home or abroad - has not yet happened.

That Vietnam and Bangladesh have climbed in a few years to the third and fourth place of the main source countries for the PRC in terms of clothing (Vietnam: USD 587.5 million, Bangladesh: USD 364,7 each in the first ten months of 2015 for HS-Pos. 61 and 62), results very predominantly on already shifted production capacities of Chinese manufacturers. They bring their products from there back to China to sell them here.

Vietnam as a manufacturing site should also gain in the course of the in October 2015 successfully completed negotiations for the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) trade agreement between the US and Vietnam in importance for Chinese enterprises. After coming into effect exports from Vietnam to the United States will be duty-free. In November 2015 for example was to read in China Daily, the Huafeng Co. of Shandong would be planning to build a textile mill in the Southeast Asian neighboring country with an investment of 700 million Renminbi (RMB - approximately 110 million USD, 1 USD= 0,157 RMB, the average rate as of November 2015).

Cambodia does not play in the foremost league yet, but pushes with power forward: During the named period, imports of knitted and crocheted clothing rose by 38.1% to USD 124.8 million (HS-Pos. 61) and other clothes (HS-Pos. 62) by 18.4% to USD 32.3 million.

However, for the relocation certain limits are set as the target countries often reach their capacity limits. Considered has to be the in China existing extremely advantageous integration of the various stages from cotton growing over the wide textile processing up to the final cutting and sewing of clothing.

Superiority in quality rather than relocation

Instead on a further relocation innovative companies and designers rely on an upgrading of their products. The aim is to serve more demanding customers in the Chinese market - and to position themselves abroad. To these belongs the fashion designer Ma Ke, who designs clothes for China's First Lady Peng Liyuan, or Guo Pei, who caused stir with her creation for the singer Rihanna at the Met Gala 2015 in New York.

Apart from individual stars of the scene also increasingly large companies such as the down jacket specialist Bosideng or the men’s wear designer Mark Fairwhale and Ningbo PeaceBird move away from pure volume production towards brand building and quality. Bosideng has even opened its own flagship store in London. The awareness of important Chinese brands such Heilan Home or Metersbonwe is still limited to local customers, for the majority of European buyers they are not a concept. But according to sector insiders this is likely to change, step by step.

Market share of the 10 most important suppliers for men’s wear in China 2014
Brand Country of origin Market share (in %)
Heilan Home PR China 2.9
Jack & Jones (Bestseller) Denmark (Tianjin) 2.4
Nike USA 1.0
Youngor PR China 1.0
Uniqlo Japan 1.0
Romon PR China 1.0
GXG PR China 0.9
Adidas Germany 0.8
Metersbowe PR China 0.8
Mark Fairwhale PR China 0.7

Source: China Daily based on Euromonitor

For German suppliers in terms of top materials (usually the most expensive materials), accessories (such as interlinings, buttons, thread, packaging) or also in cutting and sewing, China remains interesting. This was demonstrated once again at the last "Intertextile" in October 2015 Shanghai.

Two opposing trends are apparent: On the one hand exhibitors reported about a shift in demand to other countries in the wake of rising wages and ancillary wage costs. On the other hand suppliers of more expensive products can now look and hope beyond of inexpensive mass markets to the emergence of new niches, so a producer of woven-real hair fur materials. A provider of real horn buttons thinks similar.

The next "Intertextile" with a German pavilion takes place from October 11th to 13th 2016 in Shanghai ("Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Autumn Edition"; information under www.auma.de or www.intertextile.com.cn).

Generally exhibitors recommend for risk diversification to build a second pillar next to the site in China. "The caravan moves on," is said. Currently the lowest wages for garment workers are being paid in Bangladesh, the country also benefits from duty-free agreements for imports into the EU. The latter also applies for Cambodia. Also very competitive the seamstresses are working in Vietnam and India. Moreover, Africa (specifically for example Ethiopia) will play an important future role, also a production facility in Korea (Dem.) is not outrageous for Chinese textile companies.

In general free trade agreements should get considerably more weight in future, as this is the case today.