Textination Newsline

• International companies have confidence in government work
• Chinese set the tone

Nairobi (GTAI) - Foreign companies are flowing into Ethiopia and investing in the textile, clothing and leather sectors. Ethiopia is also interesting for companies that assembling simple technical devices. The country does not look good in various international indices, but that does not have to be a contradiction. For some sectors Ethiopia is highly interesting and hope for improvement is always to be hoped for.

Ethiopia is one of the poorest countries in the world and one of many typical developing countries, as there are many on the African continent. The big difference is: Ethiopia is controlled by a regime that is not satisfied with what it has achieved, but is more ambitious: to become a leading, if not the leading, industrialized nation in sub-Saharan Africa.

Model China

Despite its geographical location in Africa, large parts of the country's historical and cultural development are strongly influenced from the Middle East. The big role models are therefore not more successful states in Africa but are coming as the United Arab Emirates and China from the East. Thirty years ago, the economic march that Ethiopia is undergoing today, began there: cheap labor, interesting natural resources, enough free land and rivers for energy and irrigation.

The country is thus attractive for labor-intensive industries, especially the textile, clothing and leather industry. A worker in an Ethiopian sweatshop earns an average of USD 909 a year, based on a survey by the US Center for Global Development, compared to USD 835 in Bangladesh, USD 1,776 in Tanzania, and USD 2,118 in Kenya. Another advantage appreciated by employers: In the African context Ethiopian women are considered to be well-educated and less willing to strike.

Special zones of industrial oases

Another location advantage are the industrial zones, which are mostly built by Chinese companies: fencing, strict access controls, no-hole roads, guaranteed electricity and water supply, proper waste and garbage disposal, workers' housing in the area or nearby, shops, banks, medical care. From a European point of view, it may look like exploitation and "big brother", but from an Ethiopian point of view jobs are created, families are fed and foreign exchange is earned.

In July 2016, the Hawassa Industrial Park was officially opened, the largest in sub-Saharan Africa. From here, textiles and clothing are to be exported. By 2018, the park will employ 60,000 workers and generate USD 1 billion in exports. As early as 2030, Ethiopia wants to earn USD 30 billion in this segment. Even if one should not take the last number too seriously, the ambitions are clear and unambiguous.

Another industrial park was inaugurated in July 2017 in the city of Kombolcha. Meanwhile, a whole range of other parks are in various stages of realization, focusing on apparel, textiles, pharmaceuticals and medical equipment, as well as the agro-industry. According to the Ethiopian Government, there is no shortage of interested investors, primarily from China, India, Turkey, the US, Hong Kong and South Korea.

Cheap electricity soon abound

While some of the industrial parks still have to rely on standby generators and the connection to roads and railways leaves much to be desired, long-term remedies are in sight: several large hydropower plants are under construction nationwide, especially the Grand Ethiopian-Renaissance Dam project, which will start up the first generators in the current financial year (July 8th 2017 to July 7th 2018). Upon final completion, the capacity should reach 6,450 megawatts. It would then be Africa's largest power plant - and one of the cheapest electricity suppliers.

There are notable successes in road construction also: since August 2016, Ethiopia has got a first fully commissioned 85-kilometer three-lane highway from the capital Addis Ababa to Adama. Further sections are under construction. And also with the railway there is something to celebrate with a new, 756 kilometers long and continuously electrified route between the outskirts of Addis Ababa and the container port in neighboring Djibouti.

Foreign exchange shortage a big hurdle

This positive development cannot hide the fact that large parts of the country are not yet connected to the electricity net, that the road network is inadequate and the railway line is only a small start. Moreover, the bureaucracy is inflated and inefficient and lacks a functioning constitutional state. Currently, an acute lack of foreign exchange hinders imports and profit transfers, as the ambitious infrastructure projects absorb every available dollar in the country.

Investors, however, are speculating on tomorrow: because the country is on the right track and wants to maintain its course. A steady influx of foreign direct investment shows that international companies have sufficient confidence and want to be among the first. In addition next to the low wages, they are interested above all in the underdeveloped and untapped consumer market of 105 million people. For the South African Rand Merchant Bank, Ethiopia is therefore the fourth most attractive investment destination in Africa after Egypt, South Africa and Morocco (Where to Invest in Africa 2018).

Poor placement in international rankings

Even if Ethiopia is predicted to get a bright future, current negative assessments may not be ignored: in the Global Competitiveness Index 2017 - 2018 of the World Economic Forum, Ethiopia ranks 108th (out of 137). In the Index of the Economic Freedom of the World Heritage Foundation Ethiopia belongs to the group of largely unfree countries in 2017 ranked 142 (out of 180). And in the Doing Business Ranking of the World Bank (2017), Ethiopia is in a poor position with 159 (out of 190). By contrast, in 2016 in the Transparency International's Corruption Perceptions Index Ethiopia ranked 108 (out of 175), making it a lighthouse in an otherwise corrupt region (last place: Somalia 176, South Sudan 175, Sudan 170, Eritrea 164, Uganda 151, Kenya 145, Djibouti 123).

In the Fragile States Index 2017 of the Fund for Peace, Ethiopia ranks 15th, ranking among the most fragile states in the world (lowest rank 1 = South Sudan, best rank 178 = Finland). Ethiopia also scored poorly on press freedom and the rule of law: ranked 150th out of 178 in the Press Freedom Index in 2017 and 107th in the Rule of Law Index in 2016 (out of 113).

1) Prognosis
2) Estimation
Source: Economist Intelligence Unit

• Fair as an opportunity for cooperation
• Investment climate is improving

Bonn (GTAI) - With a population of almost 200 million, a high proportion of young people and a growing middle class, Pakistan offers good prospects. In particular, the China Pakistan Economic Corridor has the potential to trigger a new growth spurt and attract foreign investment. The 10th Expo Pakistan, which takes place in Karachi from November 9th -12th 2017, provides an opportunity to initiate business with Pakistani partners.

Largest trade fair

EXPO Pakistan is the largest trade fair in the country and offers the most comprehensive presentation of the country's export economy and service sector. In addition to local companies, numerous exhibitors from the neighboring countries also present their products to international visitors. Among others goods from sectors leather, textiles and clothing, sporting goods, automotive and automotive parts, pharmaceutical products, machinery and services in the field of information technology, logistics and health will be exhibited.

The four-day EXPO Pakistan, which has been held every two years since 1997, is directed exclusively to foreign buyers during the first three days. B2B meetings between suppliers and buyers will be arranged by the Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP). According to the Pakistani Trade Promotion Agency at the last trade fair in 2015 business contracts worth of approximately USD 1.2 billion were generated. In addition more than 70 declarations of intent were signed. The framework program for the trade fair participants included, among other things, company visits and fashion shows. Within the framework of EXPO 2015, 571 Pakistani manufacturers and exporters exhibited their products and services. According to the organizers a total of 750 foreign buyers and importers from 77 countries visited the fair.

Prospects for the economic development remain positive.

In the recent years the Republic has recorded an annual economic growth of around 4 percent. According to the forecasts of the International Monetary Fund, the gross domestic product (real) will reach 5 percent in 2017 and will increase an average growth of 5.5 per cent by 2020. Growth drivers are above all the increasing privat consumption as well as high investments in the transport infrastructure and the energy sector. As uncertainty factors remain the domestic policy conditions before the parliamentary elections in the second half of 2018 as well as the macroeconomic stability. The analysts of the Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU) expect an average current account deficit of 4.4 percent of the GDP from 2017 to 2021.

The course of the Karachi Stock Exchange (KSE 100) has steadily improved to more than three times since 2012. The index provider Morgan Stanley Capital International (MSCI) has once again raised Pakistan from a "frontier market" to an "emerging market" in May 2017. The financial crisis in 2008 led to a temporary closure of the stock exchange due to a liquidity bottlenecks and thus to the exclusion from the MSCI EM Index. An improved market classification was followed by a strong course correction. The in July published trade deficit of USD 27.5 billion, as well as the rising government debt contributed to a 20% drop in the courses by mid-September.

A major contributor to Pakistan's current high debt is not least the high investment in the mega project China Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC). The corridor is a collection of various infrastructure projects with a current value of around USD 62 billion, which has been realized throughout the country since 2013. They are part of the Chinese Megaproject "Belt and Road" with investments in the sectors energy, transport and special economic zones. The Republic finances many projects primarily through borrowing. The impact on the country is assessed. The through the corridor improved location attractiveness of the country is expected to promote the domestic economy, reduce the trade deficit and relieve the state budget.

Economic structure and trade

The Pakistani economy is the second largest in South Asia after the neighbor India. The gross domestic product rose from around USD 35 billion in the early 1980s to just under USD 283 billion. Above all the transformation from an agricultural to a service state has promoted this positive development. The service sector accounts for about 59 percent of the GDP. Central segments are trading, transport, storage and communication. The industrial sector however with a share of 20 percent is still upgradeable. The clothing, leather and textile sector has the most important share of the industry and represents the largest export sector with 67 per cent.

Germany was the fourth largest customer of Pakistani goods with USD 1.7 billion in 2016. Textiles and clothing as well as leather and leather goods had a share of about 87 percent. In the same year, German companies however exported goods worth USD 1.2 billion. Machines 33 percent, chemical products 18 percent and electrical equipment 7 percent formed the main export goods.

Improvement of the energy supply

The establishment and management of a factory for foreign companies in Pakistan are still proving difficult. According to the Doing Business Report 2017 the World Bank Pakistan ranks 144th out of 190 countries. Corruption, protection of intellectual property rights, protracted legal enforcement and poor power supply are among the greatest obstacles. A positive change in the power supply situation or the overall infrastructure should become achieved by the CPEC.

The Trade Department of the Pakistani Embassy is available for further questions and information during the 10th EXPO Pakistan.

Contact:

Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Pakistan
Commercial department
Schaperstrasse 29
10719 Berlin, Germany
T +49 (30) 212 442 02
cc@pakemb.de, tdo@pakemb.de

• Domestic production is attractively priced
• Foreign brands shift production tu Russia

Moscow (GTAI) - The Russian market for clothing and tex-tiles has recovered from the crisis. The Fashion Consulting Group expects a sales increase of up to 5 percent for 2017 and 2018. The production of clothing and textiles is also on the rise in the first half of 2017 by more than 6 percent. Low unit costs make sewing and weaving in Russia attractive and attract foreign brand manufacturers.

The Russian clothing and textile industry is again on a growth path. The market research agency Fashion Consulting Group expects a sales increase of up to 5 percent to Ruble 2,41 billion, (EUR 37.35 billion, exchange rate January 1st to August 31st 2017: 1 EUR = 64.518 rubles) for 2017 compared to the previous year. However, the business development in the first half of 2017 re-mained below expectations as the spring was short and the summer unusually cold. The most likely expectation therefore is a market growth of 2 to 3 percent.

However, with the crisis based Ruble devaluation the signs have changed. Imports become more expensive and domestic production becomes profitable. The unit labor costs in the Russian cloth-ing and textile industries have now become more competitive with those in China. This creates sales opportunities for manufacturers of automated production machinery and sewing machines.

Foreign garment manufacturers move production to Russia
First companies are already considering moving their production to Russia. For example the company Modny Continent, which is known for the brand In-City and is currently producing in China. Other wellknown
Russian labels like Sportmaster and Acoola, as well as foreign fashion brands such as Zara, Nike, Finnflare, Uniqlo and Decathlon are planning to launch their own productions in Russia. Some Russian companies are sewing under a foreign brand name and hide their origin.

Already one step further is Adventum Technologies. The to the Textime (Tekstajm) Group belonging company opened a new plant for the production of special clothing in the area of Tula for Rubles 650 million in March 2017. In Roslawl in the Smolensk region, the Roztech company is installing a plant for the manufacture of Dikaja Orchideja underwear for Rubles 100 million. PrimeTec (Prajmtek) has started the production of terry cloth in the area of Ivanovo for Rubles 670 million.

Source: Research of Germany Trade and Invest

Government pushes import substitution
The Ministry of Industry promotes domestic manufacturers of clothing and textiles with Rubles 145 billion as part of the strategy for the development of the light industry by 2025 and the anticreep plan. By the year 2020 the market share of Russian textiles should rise to 50 percent and 300,000 new jobs should be created. This will make Russia more independent from clothing and textile imports.

The government specifically supports individual textile segments. With regulation no 857 of August 27th 2016, it promotes the production of school uniforms in Russia. Also for research and development in the textile industry funding will be provided: for 2017 Rubles 3 billion are available, 2.2 billion from the anti-crisis plan.

However, the somewhat stabilizing Ruble threatens to cross the plan of the government, it cheapens the imports. In the first quarter of 2017 imports of textiles and footwear increased by 22.7 percent.

*) First half year 2017 compared to the same period of last year
Source: Federal Statistical Office Rosstat

Weak ruble makes manufacturing in Russia attractive
The ruble devaluation benefits the labor-intensive textile industry. Many Russian fashion brands, who have placed orders to foreign sewing companies, are trying to redirect them to Russia. The factories in the textile clusters of the areas Ivanovo, Leningrad, Tula, Tver, Vladimir, Perm and Vologda are ready for new settlements. Ac-cording to plans by the regional government, textile production should also be set up in Tatarstan. The proximity to polymer producers in the region should ensure the supply of chemical fibers for the manufacturing of work wear and uniforms.

Without an own production of wool, silk, flax and synthetic fibers the Russian textile industry can-not get on its feet. However - to date, not all textiles and basic materials can be obtained from domestic sources. This is why very fine fabrics come e.g. from Europe. Local producers are to re-place imports especially in polyviscose, worsted, polyamide and polyester.

In order to reduce the import dependency of polyester, a new combine for the production of poly-ester fibers is being developed in Witschuga in the Ivanovo region. ThyssenKrupp, Uhde-Inventa Fischer, Oerlikon Neumag and Czech Unistav Construction are building the new Ivanovsky Poly-efirni complex, which is scheduled to commence production in 2020.

Foreign textile imports could be replaced much faster by Russian goods and the growth rates would be much higher if the banks would provide affordable loans to local textile manufacturers to buy new equipments. But this does not happen according to the president of the Russian Union of Entrepreneurs of the Textile and Light Industry Andrej Razbrodin.

Investors are faced with various challenges in setting up textile productions in Russia: the produc-tion plants are mostly outdated, skilled workers are a shortage as well as sales partners. Only if the Russian government's development program for the garment and textile industry will be suc-cessfully implemented, these problems could be overcome.

• Textile companies comparatively broadly placed 
• Garment sector scores too little internationally 

New Delhi (GTAI) - India is one of the world's largest manufacturers of textiles. Cotton fabrics and home textiles are among the export hits. The clothing industry plays a comparatively small role and threatens to fall behind in competition. Both areas are required to produce higher qualities and more sustainable. The Ministry of Textiles supports the fragmented industry. Foreign suppliers and buyers can explore the market at trade fairs.

The Indian textile and clothing industry is of an overall economic importance. It accounts for 14% of the total industrial production and employs directly 51 million people. Additional further 68 million people in households and micro enterprises are working for the industrial companies. Because the national economy as a whole needs to create about 12 million additional jobs per year, the government has chosen the textile industry as an employment motor. India, in contrast to the textile giant PRC, has high advantages with its labor cost.

 
The availability of natural materials such as cotton, jute and silk is a further advantage of the textile industry, which can look back on a long tradition of processing. India is now the world's largest producer of cotton. In the cultivation year 2016/17 year (4.1 - 31.3) estimated 5.9 million tons are expected to be harvested.

The cotton will be processed into yarns and fabrics. For the production of yarns, 61 million spindles (measured in spindle equivalents) are available. In 2015/16, they spun about 5.7 million t of yarn, of which 4.1 million t are made out of cotton fibers. The production of cotton cloths was about 38 billion sqm., mainly produced in decentralized weaving mills with simple mechanical looms. The global trend in clothing, however, goes to artificial fibers. In order to protect their domestic production the Ministry of Finance levies tariffs.

Textile industry with its own ministry and many promotional programs 
The Ministry of Textiles subsidizes the sector through several programs, which support the technical modernization, the construction of industrial parks, qualification, training and marketing. Garment factories may even be reimbursed for duties and fees paid. For this purpose the budget of the Ministry of Textiles was once again significantly increased in the financial year 2017/18.

The textile and clothing industry does not only want to score on the domestic market, it also wants to play a bigger international role. In a five-year plan, the Ministry of Textiles had targeted an expansion of exports to USD 64 billion by 2016/17. This target has not yet been achieved, in 215/16 the exports of textiles and clothing amounted to USD 37.6 billion. The exports of textiles even shrank against the year before. 

Sources: Ministry of Textiles, Ministry of Statistics and Programme Implementation

The local garment industry has good chances of development on a large and growing domestic market. According to industry estimates the retail sector sold clothing worth approximately USD 45 billion in 2016. Experts say the world's fifth-largest market is expected to grow well above 10% in the medium term. The backlog of the 1.3 billion inhabitants is not yet covered. The trade imports international branded goods mainly from China and Bangladesh. Standard articles and custom-made products are sewn by the local industry.

Garment sector with opportunities and problems 
Cheap wages are a location advantage. They vary however very different within the subcontinent. The statutory minimum wage regulations differ between the 29 federal states. In addition the person's age, the company membership and abilities are used to calculate the minimum wage.

Due to the increasing production costs in China, labor-intensive manufacturing is moving to more favorable locations. Not only labor costs play a major role here. The complex labor law strongly restricts the efficiency of labor markets in India. Investors consider the labor law, logistics and the structure of supply chains as to be difficult. The World Bank found in its study "Stitches to Riches" in 2016 (see https://www.openknowledge.worldbank.org/handle/10986) that Bangladesh, Indonesia, Cambodia and Vietnam, surpass the competitor India in the points quality, delivery times, reliability and sustainable social responsibility.

India is also missing free trade agreements (FTAs) which facilitate access to international markets and regulate them reliably. The European Union and India have been negotiating as an example a comprehensive FTA for over 10 years with longer interruptions.

Fragmented sector structure with international Champions 
Information on the number of companies, their size classes and investment volumes are not available. Smaller textile companies and retailers are partially not registered and do not pay taxes. Medium-sized companies are very flexible, but they need to   mechanize, automate and upgrade technically in order to survive.
Larger companies look back on their long-standing tradition and have developed into internationally networked corporations. According to the Indian financial service Moneycontrol, the three largest corporations in the clothing industry are: KPR Mills (last net sales circa USD 300 million), Page Industries (USD 270 million) and Gokaldas Exports (USD 170 million); In the textile sector in general: Bombay Rayon (some USD 640 million), Sutlej Textiles (USD 350 million), SEL Manufacturing (USD  300 million), Mandhana Industries (USD 250 million); in the knitting sector: Nahar Industrial Enterprises (USD 270 million), Rupa (USD 160 million); Cotton spinning: Vardhman Textiles (USD 860 million), Trident (USD 560 million), Indo Count (USD 310 million); Spinning of synthetic fibers: RSWM (USD 450 million), Indorama (USD 390 million), Sangam (USD 230 million); Weaving and other processes: Alok Industries (USD 1.8 billion), Welspun (USD x750 million), Garden Silk (USD 370 million); Other areas: Arvind (USD 830 million), Nahar Spinning (USD 310 million), JBF Industries (USD 550 million), Bombay Dyeing (USD 280 million).

Foreign textile companies invest and explore
The government is promoting the "Make in India" campaign in the textile sector for foreign direct investments. Company foundations are for 100% in foreign hands (see http://www.makeinindia.com/sector/textiles-and-garments). The sector attracted USD 2.4 billion from 2000 to 2016 in FDI.

Foreign companies can explore the markets at various trade fairs. The textile ministry wants to expand the “Textiles India”, which took place in Gandhinagar (Gujarat) in June 2017, to a mega-event (https://www.textilesindia2017.com). The international garment industry also met at the same time at the „India International Garment Fair" (http://www.indiaapparelfair.com).

The "National Garment Fair" will take place from July 10th to 12th in Mumbai (http://cmai.fingoh.com/event/65th-national-garment-fair-1/Registration). And Messe Frankfurt is organizing "Techtextil India" from September 13th to 15th in Mumbai. Here German exhibitors can participate in a community stand (http://www.auma.de/de/messedatenbank/seiten/moesetailseite.aspx?tf=135499).

• Japan replaces Germany as the most important supplier of textile machines
• Digitization is the trend of the future

Beijing (GTAI) - China, the largest apparel export apparel nation, is losing international market share due to rising personnel costs. The companies react with increased automation and production dis-placements. While imports of textile machines from Japan are gro-wing, deliveries from Germany are falling above average. The next wave of modernization will involve more digitization.

Internationally, the PRC is by far the largest exportation nation of clothing. According to UN Comtrade after decades of ascent the peak seems to have crossed in 2014 with a record share of global clothing exports of 39.3%. Since then things are developing slowly but continuously downwards. In 2016, the Chinese share was estimated to be 37.1% (compared to 3.8% in Germany).  China loses market shares particular in favor of ASEAN countries such as Vietnam, Bangladesh or India. 

1) from 2014 estimation of world export; 2) based on information provided by partner countries; Source: UN Comtrade

Domestic textile machine manufacturers catching up

In fact, the Chinese textile industry is under considerable pressure because of the increase in personnel expenses. According to a Euromonitor study, the hourly wages of Chinese workers tripled between 2005 and 2016 from USD 1.20 to USD 3.60. Thus the People's Republic not only left classic emerging countries like Thailand ( USD 2.20 ) or Mexico (USD 2.20) behind  - not to mention USD 0.70 in India - but is already approaching individual European countries like Portugal (USD 4,50).

More information (in German) on wages and salary costs in China can be found at:
http://www.gtai.de/GTAI/Navigation/DE/Trade/Maerkte/Geschaeftspraxis/lohn-und-lohnnebenkosten,t=lohn-und-lohnnebenkosten--vr-china,did=1718070.html

Many companies face the challenge by greater automation. The Chinese textile companies can increasingly rely on textile machinery made in the country itself. While in 2016, according to official statistics, investments in the sector rose by 8.5% year on year to Yuan 1,142.4 billion (RMB, around USD 172 billion, 1 USD =6.642 RMB, annual average price in 2016), imports of textile machinery fell by 12.5% to USD 2.8 billion. However, there are no statistics on the extent to which sales are distributed by purely local companies or to those with a foreign background.

The fact is that, for example, German textile machine manufacturers have invested heavily locally in recent years in order for being able to meet the needs of their local customers. Against this backdrop, Germany was still able to defend its top spot with an import share of 29.5% against Japan in 2016, but had to cope with a strong minus of 30.6%, while the Japanese increased by 5.8%. Italy, ranked third and the most important Europe an competitor recorded a drop of 16.1%.

Source: China Customs, GTAI calculation

In the current year 2017, however, the Japanese seem to take the rank of the competitor Germany with an increase of 51% in the first four months. The overall textile machinery import grew by a strong 19.7% after the weak previous year before. Import from Germany however did not benefit from this and fell by 8.9%. As a result the German share of machinery supply decreased from 29.5% (2016 as a whole) to 25.0% in the first four months of 2017, while Japanese companies increased their share from 26.9% to 31.9%.

Source: China Customs, GTAI calculations

Production shift continues

Many Chinese textile companies are also thinking about a dislocation production - either to cheaper foreign countries or to the more favorable Chinese hinterland. In 2016, the Autonomous Region of Xinjiang became the main destination for new settlements in the western part of the People's Republic. On average, two new textile factories were opened every day in Xinjiang.

The regional textile industry office in Xinjiang is expecting an even greater run for 2017, thanks to massive political and financial support. Many jobs however are not created there. On-site visitors report about state-of-the-art facilities operated by only a few specialists. The political message is clear: Chinese textile production should remain in the country, be of a higher quality and, if necessary, be reoriented in the direction of technical textiles.However, at least private fashion manufacturers are skeptical about whether the politically favored "Go-West" actually pays for them. Because there too, wages are likely to rise sooner or later, according to the justified Apprehension.

The fact that Vietnam, Bangladesh, South Korea and Cambodia have entered the league of important PRC purchasing countries within a few years is a result not least of the fact that Chinese (and other) manufacturers already have dislocated production capacities. They return their products from there for sale to China.Nevertheless, the very large displacement wave so far has not yet happened. In fact, certain limits are imposed on the shift, since the target countries often encounter their capacity limits. Added to this is the extraordinary advantageous network of the various production stages in China: from cotton harvesting to textile processing and final finishing.

Future theme digitization As part of the country-wide "Made in China 2025" strategy, the textile industry is trying to exploit the many and new opened possibilities of digitization. In view of the increasing individualization of consumption, more machines will probably be required in the future, which are, for example, able to knit sweaters according to the size, color and pattern of the individual customer. In principle, intelligent networking of production, real shops and e-commerce are seen as the challenge of the future.

• Foreign companies should adapt their fashion to Chinese needs
• Increasing health awareness strengthens sportwear market

Beijing (GTAI) - The Chinese clothing market is one of the largest in the world and is developing rapidly. From the lower mass volume over the in quality and optic pretty products in a midprice segment to luxury and haute-couture the range of products in the sectors is constantly expanding. In addition to the tendency towards recognized brands an increasing individualization of consumption can be observed. What is needed, what fits well is liked and moreover is somehow "special".

According to the Chinese Statistical Office (NBS), the retail sales of clothing increased in 2016 to more than USD 150 billion (these figures include companies with annual sales of over USD 3 million in their main business). This makes the Chinese clothing market to one of the largest in the world.

The Chinese consumer desires are increasingly demanding, differentiated and personalized. The new possibilities of the Internet, including the booming e-commerce, are changing the purchasing behavior drastically. The level of information has risen significantly, especially as a result of visits abroad. Customers are increasingly aware of prices that have to be paid outside of China. Too high price increases are therefore perceived as discrimination and damage the image of brands.

"The success is not decided by online or offline trading or whether it is a local or international company, but whether the supply meets the demand," Liu Xiaolu, founder of the popular underwear brand Neiwai says.  Essential are the right materials and a quick response to the changing needs of the customers. Finding the right piece online can actually be difficult. A number of hitherto exclusively online offering vendors such as Miss Rhino have recently opened additional conventional stores in order to provide a better advice to customers.   

Fashion must meet Chinese expectations

This makes the sector division representative for the entire Chinese fashion market: the products must be liked and should fit. From the customers' point of view, it is important to find the balance between foreign flair and local characteristics. Not without a reason the 345 yuan (RMB, around 52 $, 1 USD = 6.6442 RMB, as annual average price 2016) for expensive model O2bra "Naja Nina", is one of the bestsellers of the Neiwai brand in Shanghai. It unites Chinese and Western elements: from the outside plain black, decorated inside with erotic motifs from classical Chinese painting.  In general, the underwear sector within the fashion market is considered to be the least saturated and segmented. The Chinese retail trade sold women's underwear at about USD 20.1 billion in 2016. It is estimated to reach USD 25 billion in 2017. For 2020 Euromonitor International predicts sales of USD 33 billion.    

The top ten producers share 13% of the market only. The bulk of this is due to thousands of hardly known companies selling their products at low prices. The prices for a bra range from RMB 50 piece from the Chinese mass producer Cosmo Lady to one hundred times higher Italian brand La Perla. In order to benefit from the more demanding wishes of the Chinese women's world, for example Victoria's Secret from the USA opened its first subsidiary in the People's Republic in Shanghai in March 2017 - a four-storied flagship store.

According to the industry in the long term it hardly will be possible to bring for Western women designed goods to China.  Although in the medium to long term the Chinese ladies statistically seem to become larger and more corpulent, but the purely physical differences will still remain considerable. According to the China Physical Fitness Surveillance Center, women aged 20 to 24 in 2000 were 158.6 cm tall in average, their breast circumference was 82 cm, ten years later they were measured 159 cm respectively still 82 cm. Women of the age of 25 to 29 years measured in 2000 about 158.7 cm / 82.5 cm and in 2010 at 158.2 cm / 83.4 cm. At this background, the companies need not only to develop appropriate fit-sizes. They also have to accept that Chinese women have a more functional or conventional attitude than, for example, women from the USA. This is not least true for swimwear also.

The market for sportswear is growing strongly

According to taobao.com, the largest online platform in the country, more than 21 million bikinis and bathing suits are being sold annually. It is true that every third piece is a bikini, but according to Taobo Chinese women generally prefer to dress more covered than the Western ones. Preference is given to models made with a lot of fabric, looking often much like skirts. Leading are the local companies Hosa, Heatwave and Zoke with prices between RMB 400 and 500. However, many younger Chinese prefer more likely to shop on foreign websites.

Given the strong growth in beach and spa tourism, the demand for swimwear in China will grow at an above-average rate. In general, the sporting goods sector is predicted to get an above-average growth together with increasing health awareness. According to Euromonitor International, sales of sportswear in China are expected to grow to around RMB 281 billion by 2020, of which about RMB 20 to 30 billion will be spent on sports underwear. In total, an estimated value of RMB 170 to 180 billion of sportswear will be sold in the PR China in 2016. The sector is happy and looking forward to a growth of around 10% per annum.

• Groundbreaking ideas

interzum is a unique platform for exciting new ideas and innovations: right on cue when the start of spring leaves its first traces in nature, the leading international fair for the furniture and interior construction industries' supplying sections also turned its attention to nature. From biomaterials and green innovations to upcycling, future home lifestyles were the talking point this month, with the other major theme being interzum's importance for design, interior decor and architecture.

"Upcycling" is one of the words to keep in the back of your head at interzum 2017. It refers to a kind of recycling where selected products are reused and, in the ideal scenario, new, high-quality materials for completely new products are produced. From paper and clothing to fabrics, almost anything that would otherwise end up in the rubbish can be reused with the right creative mindset. Upcycling isn't just fun; it helps to protect our environment. Resources circulate, and less waste is produced. What's more, we get a "new" product at a lower cost or no cost at all - a win-win situation. The special Circular Thinking event area at interzum will present ideas, products and manufacturers, and provide an overview of sustainable upcycling. It's also where visitors will find chairs made from biomaterials. Seats made from plant or vegetable waste? It may sound a little strange at first, but the idea is actually as simple as it is ingenious. After all, the raw materials are freely available in plentiful quantities and can be sustainably reused. The Zostera Stool by designer Carolin Pertsch, for example, is made from seagrass that is washed up on the coasts.

Natural materials and conscious use of resources will have an immense influence on how we live in the future, probably more so than ever before. The global population is constantly growing, and supplies of resources are dwindling. This is yet another good reason to visit the special Circular Thinking event area to find some inspiration. One organisation that has done just that is the American Hardwood Export Council (AHEC). Taking its inspiration from nature, the Workshop of Dreams shows just what can happen when American hardwoods are used creatively. interzum will present creative and surprising designs, including The Smile pavilion, a wooden installation.

So much sustainability and innovation should, of course, be rewarded, too. The Green Product Award is presented in 14 categories at the fair. True to its motto, "How will we live tomorrow?", it recognises exceptionally innovative and green products.

How we will live tomorrow is also a question that the Tiny House examines. Living space is becoming more and more expensive, and this is driving the search for solutions that can offer maximum comfort in a limited space. On an area of just 8 square metres that can be surveyed at a glance, the Tiny House is a home in miniature that provides everything you need for a space-saving life and more besides: the house is on wheels, so there are no limits to its mobility.

The special Mobile Spaces event area will also explore the immense impact of mobility on our lives. Cars, planes and ships mean that we are more mobile today than ever before. Designing for these mobile spaces calls for individual solutions because they have their own specific requirements. Surfaces, textiles and fittings will be presented in the event area as ideally suited examples of mobile furnishings, especially in caravans.

This year interzum will present a host of diverse ideas for designing future living spaces. This rich source of inspiration is something that many leading names value and appreciate, not least international architect Peter Ippolito. Professor Peter Zec of Red Dot is also keeping a close eye on current developments and industry trends, and spoke highly of the development of natural materials and how they can be combined with cutting-edge technology. To do justice to these innovations, the interzum award: intelligent material & design will be presented in Cologne.

And to make sure no innovations go undiscovered, Koelnmesse is committed to representing young companies at interzum. This initiative is supported by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Energy's (BMWi) funding programme. Eligible companies can benefit from assistance with trade fair costs and have the opportunity to present their innovations and market them.

How we will design our future living spaces is the focus of this year's interzum. The world's leading trade fair provides the ideal platform for all kinds of groundbreaking innovations and will do much more than just start a conversation about tomorrow's worlds of interior design.

Koelnmesse is the world's top trade fair organiser for the areas of furnishing, living and lifestyle. At the trade fair hub of Cologne, the leading international fair imm cologne as well as the trade fair formats of LivingKitchen, ORGATEC, spoga+gafa, interzum and Kind + Jugend rank among the internationally renowned and established industry meeting places. These fairs comprehensively represent the upholstered and case furniture segment, the kitchen industry, the office furniture sector and outdoor living as well as the innovations of the furniture supply industry. Over the last few years, Koelnmesse has specifically added international fairs in the most important fast-expanding markets to its portfolio. These include the LivingKitchen China/CIKB in Shanghai, interzum guangzhou in Guangzhou and Pueri Expo in Sao Paulo. With ambista, the network of the interior decorating industry, Koelnmesse offers direct access to relevant products, contacts, competence and events.

Further information: http://www.global-competence.net/interiors/ and http://www.ambista.com

• Large-scale projects in Honduras
• More vertical integration strived

Following the US President's decree against the Pacific Pact TPP, Central America's textile and clothing industry counts for its main market on further tariff advantages compared to the Asian competition. Next to the so far dominating subcontracting work the sector wants to intensify the production of pre-products, what requires more and better textile machinery for this purpose. Guatemala is already investing, while Nicaragua will continue to stay mainly with sewing and tailoring. The largest technology market was lately El Salvador.

Honduras wants to expand its textile and clothing industry strongly. The aim of the "20/20" program is to significantly increase exports and with it new jobs. One focus should be the production of sportswear and other synthetic clothing, including pre-products. Central America's "largest factory for polyester yarn" (DTY) went into construction at the end of January 2017 in Choloma. It is expected to cost USD 73 million and produce 25,000 tons per year. According to Mario Canahuati, a Honduran shareholder of the investor United Textiles of America, an additional USD 120 million factory for synthetic materials and garments should be added later.

Observers believe the sector's expansion plans are realistic because it can stem the relatively large investment in the synthetic fiber production. In the Honduran textile industry there are many joint ventures with US partners which can raise capital in North America. In the other countries of the region the sector companies are more strongly medium-sized. They are depending more on the local capital market with its high interest rates and restrictive banks.

Honduras, Guatemala and El Salvador invest

According to a machine representative the textile manufacturers in Guatemala will invest more in dyeing machines in order to become more independent from suppliers and keep the quality better under control. According to Invest in Guatemala the sector there delivers higher quality end products than the competition from El Salvador and Honduras, on the US market clothing from Guatemalan is almost twice as expensive.

The textile industry in Guatemala and El Salvador is more vertically integrated than in Honduras: it produces relatively quite a lot of yarn and fabrics by itself and is less dependent of the typical subcontracting (Maquila) method, which only imports textiles and re-exports them as finished clothing. Honduras mainly processes imported synthetic fiber yarns, which the country - like El Salvador - manufactures partly by itself.

The best market in Central America for a large German textile machine manufacturer is currently El Salvador, which imports the most technology in the region. The customers are quite innovative and work more concept orientated, which makes the cooperation easier. Due to increased yarn prices, some weaving companies are currently investing in spinning machines, a machinery salesman says. According to the Central America Strategic Sourcing Review, more than 20% of the factories are "vertically integrated".

In the opinion of machine representatives, Nicaragua is still concentrating on subcontracting. Investors are reluctant to spend larger sums which would be needed for modern textile  manufacturing. In addition there is a lack of good specialists for the foreseeable future, the level of training is only sufficient for easier sewing and clothing manufacturing. In Panama the textile industry does not play a nameable role; in Costa Rica, which is also relatively prosperous, the sector is larger, but exports little.

Central America’s textile and clothing industry

*) Costa Rica 29 Mio.; Clothing = almost total industry exports; 80% of exports are for the US; data from US import authority. Source: ITMF; national associations and authorities; Press

Central America Textile companies are usually located in a free zone and produce for export, mainly the US. In Honduras, according to a study by the Central Bank, Maquila - with textile / clothing as the largest segment - produced 36% of pre-products for other contractors and 64% of final products, which in turn were exported up to 99%.

US protectionism could even help

The protectionism, which is announced in the main market USA, develops some optimism to Central America's textile industry. As listed in “Honduras 20/20” it now can deliver more cheaply to the US than the competition from China or Vietnam because of existing trade agreements. At an - now not targeted anymore - omission of cutting US customs duties for Vietnam, it would be much more expensive. In addition, a garment factory in Honduras is able to deliver to the US in two days, a delivery from Vietnam requires twenty days. In the today so very fast fashion world, this is the main reason why Wal-Mart & Co. are ordering massive masses in Central America.

Until now, Central America has been supplying mainly cheap clothing for the US mass market, but, as a German machinery exporter is hoping, they will try to settle themselves against the Asian competition with higher valuable goods. For this the Central American manufacturers would need better technology, which preferable comes from Europe. In the view of other representatives Central America will need in future productive machines that are cheap at the same time. Chinese machines with European components are a big competition.

Machinery imports rising

Central America Imports of textile machinery and sewing machines have risen by one-third to over USD 130 million between 2013 and 2015. In addition, according to the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), Honduras has imported 170 round knitting machines in 2014 and 2015, Guatemala only 26, El Salvador 23 and Nicaragua ten. Germany was the fifth most important delivery country. Leading supplier was the USA. For Guatemala, with its many Korean-owned textile companies, Korea (Rep) was the main supplier.According to ITMF, Central America will shift its investments somewhat away from the clothing area towards the textile sector. Already today, the representative of a German manufacturer says: "We are currently selling very well in Mexico and Central America." 

Central America‘s1) imports of textile machinery (bn. US$) 2)

1) without Honduras and Nicaragua; 2) SITC 724, without household sewing machines, (724.33), household washing machines, (724.71), machines for dry-cleaning(724.72), leather machines(7248), parts for household washing machines; 3) El Salvador only
Source: UN Comtrade

• One in two trade visitors came from outside Germany
• The top 30 global retail chains were in Cologne
• Cologne expands its position as the global capital for interior design

imm cologne and LivingKitchen have achieved a record number of visitors this year. "We met our target and have broken the 150,000-visitor mark," said Gerald Böse, President and Chief Executive Officer of Koelnmesse GmbH, who is delighted with the results. Roughly every second trade visitor came from outside Germany, with foreign trade visitors accounting for nearly 50 per cent. "That shows we are right on track with our drive to internationalise the events," Böse continued. Dirk-Uwe Klaas, Managing Director of the Federal Association of the German Furniture Industry, was similarly pleased with the figures. "The Cologne furniture show was a wonderful summit for interior decor. The German furniture industry is completely satisfied with imm cologne. It was the ideal start to 2017, which will no doubt be an excellent year for the industry," said Klaas.

On behalf of retailers, the President of the German Federal Association of Furniture, Kitchens & Furnishing Retailers (BVDM), Hans Strothoff, gave the following verdict: "The trade fair met retailers' expectations. The quality of the exhibitors was high; a large number of new launches were on show, and visitors had a chance to experience attractive product presentations. This makes a visit to the trade fair well worth its while. And it's why retailers also see the trade fair as a fantastic way to launch the 2017 furniture year."

Of the 104,000 trade visitors, around 56,000 came from Germany and approximately 48,000 from abroad (an increase of 4 per cent). Within Europe, increases in visitor figures were recorded in particular from Spain (up 25 per cent), Russia (up 26 per cent), Italy (up 19 per cent) and the UK (up 13 per cent). Visitor numbers from the Netherlands and Poland also increased. Numbers of overseas trade visitors rose, in particular visitors from China (up 5 per cent), South Korea (up 12 per cent) and India (up 5 per cent). A rise was also recorded in visitor numbers from the Middle East  (up 19 per cent), with particularly strong growth from the United Arab Emirates. With these excellent numbers of foreign visitors, the two trade fairs will boost exhibitors' exports.

Koelnmesse Chief Operating Officer Katharina C. Hamma emphasised the quality of the trade visitors: "No other event brings supply and demand together as effectively in this quality as imm cologne and LivingKitchen." Initial evaluations of the results showed that the trade visitors included large numbers of the global top 30 retail chains, such as John Lewis, Home Retail Group, Harveys Furniture -all from the UK - as well as Conforama from France and Nitori from Japan. The major industry players in online retail - including Amazon and the Otto Group - also used the event intensively for their businesses. With these results, the trade fair duo has confirmed its importance for the interior design industry's global commercial operations on a national and an international level.

LivingKitchen closes with good results

In parallel with the world's most important furnishing fair, imm cologne, the international kitchen event LivingKitchen took place this year. For the seven days of the event, 200 exhibitors from 21 countries - including around 50 first-time and returning exhibitors - showed how much innovation the industry has to offer and how high its standards of design and quality are. This year's LivingKitchen not only followed on seamlessly from its success in 2015, but significantly improved on the key figures in many areas. "For us, LivingKitchen 2017 was a complete success. The world's best-performing kitchen industry needs a leading international trade fair in Germany. Our industry presented an outstanding showcase, and we are convinced that the trade fair will significantly boost demand for kitchens, nationally and internationally," said Kirk Mangels, Chief Executive of the Modern Kitchen Working Group e.V. (AMK). A great number of positive comments were received on the event's concept, which is aimed at both business and the general public. When asked about the event's added value, many exhibitors mentioned the fact that Cologne is the only trade fair where they can present their products in the context of a globally oriented interiors show. "LivingKitchen in Cologne is on an excellent course. We will analyse the results right after the trade fair to see how we can work together to continue to develop the event," said Mangels. But it was not just the exhibitors' innovative products that attracted a highly diverse audience interested in the latest kitchens and good food - the cooking events and large cooking shows also drew visitors to the trade fair on the public days.

The next imm cologne will take place from 15 to 21 January 2018 in Cologne, co-located with LivingInteriors.

Koelnmesse - Global competence in furniture, interiors and design
Further Information: http://www.global-competence.net/interiors/

• Matchmaking at the trade fair: exhibitors and visitors highlight the quality of business contacts made
• Celebrity guests and star designers go on a textile tour of discovery
   

Inspiring, touch-focused and close to the industry: Heimtextil finished last Friday after four successful trade fair days in Frankfurt am Main. In spite of the snow, ice and storms, particularly on the first and last days of the trade fair, almost 70,000 trade visitors (2016: 68,277) from across the world attended the leading trade fair for home and contract textiles and were won over by quality and variety of the exhibited products as well as the trends of the new season. Growth was driven primarily by Brazil, China, the United Kingdom, Italy, Japan, Russia, the USA and United Arab Emirates. A total of 2963 exhibitors from 67 countries (2016: 2864) presented their new textile products and designs across 20 halls and appeared to be highly satisfied by the orders they received and business contacts they made. Detlef Braun, CEO of Messe Frankfurt, highlighted the positives following the end of the trade fair: “The figures speak for themselves: Heimtextil grew

once again in 2017 in terms of its visitor and exhibitor numbers. But it’s no longer about quantity and hasn’t been for a long time. I am especially pleased about the high quality of the products exhibited as well as the intensity of discussions between purchasers and exhibitors. Frankfurt is the international meeting place and beating textile heart of the interiors industry.”
Also positive: overall, visitors consider the sector’s economy to be in a better place even than last year. Visitors from Germany in particular consider the situation to be good (40 per cent).
“We returned to Heimtextil at the right time: over the past few days, we have been successful in positioning our new profile and new product orientation”, says Andreas Klenk, CEO Saum & Viebahn. “The feedback from our visitors was thoroughly positive and we were able to acquire both export and domestic contacts. We will be leaving this Heimtextil with a good feeling and look forward to returning next year.”

Textile design: the eye feels too

It is not just the feel of a material that determines its appeal – something that was also obvious at Heimtextil with the great interest shown in textile design. The colourful fabrics and varied designs by well-known designers and young talent were very popular and attracted a lot of attention: “For me as a designer, Heimtextil is extremely interesting, in particular because I can see myself designing bed linen, pillows and other home textiles in future in addition to wallpaper”, says star designer Michael Michalsky, who presented his new wallpaper collection at the trade fair.
“At the world’s leading trade fair, competitors are present in great numbers. Here, I can experience marketing of products at close quarters and get direct feedback on my own new products.” And it was not just designers that showed great interest in the globally unique design offer at Heimtextil. Exhibiting companies also used the creative hotspot to acquire new designs for their upcoming collections.

Eva Padberg, Harald Glööckler and Michael Michalsky

The enthusiasm for beautiful and high-quality textiles not only brings trade visitors together, but also numerous celebrity guests. At the opening of Heimtextil, top model Eva Padberg talked with Detlef Braun about the trends of the coming season, the interest of end consumers in sustainability and

the common ground between fashion and interior design. She then used the opportunity to take a tour of the Theme Park trend area and the trade fair.
A meeting point for stars continued to be the Marburger Tapetenfabrik on the first day of the trade fair: Harald Glööckler presented his new collection “Glööckler Imperial” which bore the unmistakeable signature of the designer with its usual luxurious style. Musical accompaniment and a good atmosphere was provided by singer

Dynelle Rhodes from the Weather Girls as well as Frankfurt radio presenter and DJ Felix Moese. Designer Michael Michalsky also presented his new collection of wallpapers in person in cooperation with A.S. Création.

Trend towards more materiality

An end to bare walls and cold floors: home textiles are celebrating their comeback in private homes. Curtains, carpets and decorative cushions are decorating people’s own four walls and lending them a personal note. “We can also confirm the trend towards more materiality. In addition to our new wallpaper products, we have seen an increased interest from visitors in our new fabric collections”, says Andreas Zimmermann, CEO Zimmer + Rohde. This trend is boosting orders at Heimtextil: “The quality of visitors was very high: we met very high-quality, good international purchasers and excellent potential new customers. We are therefore very satisfied with our attendance at Heimtextil.”

Sleepinmg as a lifestyle

After nutrition and fitness, sleeping will be the next big lifestyle theme. This was also proven by the numerous innovations seen in the bed segment. Mediflow from Hamburg, for example, presented an improved version of its water pillow capable of full adjustments for firmness and supportive effect. Robert Kocher, European CEO of Mediflow: “This year, we had lots of new customers at our stand who had heard about us and wanted to know more about our products or even ordered them directly. Visitors primarily came from the Middle East, China, the eastern European region and Scandinavia. We also enjoyed intense discussions with American and German customers. This is also the great strength of Heimtextil. You’ve can shake hands with the world here. It is not just about sales, but also communication and establishing relationships or simply getting direct feedback on our products”. At the sleep campaign stand, visitors and exhibitors alike were able to inform themselves about

the four things that can influence sleep. Heimtextil will continue to focus on the topic of sleeping over the coming years.

The next Heimtextil, international trade fair for home and contract textiles, will take place from 9-12 January 2018 in Frankfurt am Main.