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05.09.2022

McKinsey zum Strommix 2030: Deutschland auf Erdgas angewiesen

  • Erneuerbaren-Ausbau ist Herkulesaufgabe
  • Geschwindigkeit muss zur Erreichung der Ziele massiv zunehmen
  • Indikatoren zum Status der Energiewende in Deutschland verbessern sich leicht: Anteil Erneuerbarer am Bruttostromverbrauch im ersten Halbjahr 2022 bei 49%

Die Rahmenbedingungen für die Energiewende in Deutschland haben sich durch den russischen Angriff auf die Ukraine dramatisch verändert. Die neuen geopolitischen Realitäten und die EU-Entscheidung, zukünftig auf russisches Gas zu verzichten, treffen auch den Stromsektor – denn flexible Gaskraftwerke sollen helfen, die Volatilität erneuerbarer Energien auszugleichen. Vom massiven Ausbau der Erneuerbaren, über eine stärkere Nutzung des Stroms aus Europa bis hin zu weitgehender Selbstversorgung auf Basis von Kohle und Kernkraft – eine Analyse dreier Szenarien für den Strommix im Jahr 2030 zeigt: Deutschland bleibt weiterhin auf Erdgas angewiesen.

  • Erneuerbaren-Ausbau ist Herkulesaufgabe
  • Geschwindigkeit muss zur Erreichung der Ziele massiv zunehmen
  • Indikatoren zum Status der Energiewende in Deutschland verbessern sich leicht: Anteil Erneuerbarer am Bruttostromverbrauch im ersten Halbjahr 2022 bei 49%

Die Rahmenbedingungen für die Energiewende in Deutschland haben sich durch den russischen Angriff auf die Ukraine dramatisch verändert. Die neuen geopolitischen Realitäten und die EU-Entscheidung, zukünftig auf russisches Gas zu verzichten, treffen auch den Stromsektor – denn flexible Gaskraftwerke sollen helfen, die Volatilität erneuerbarer Energien auszugleichen. Vom massiven Ausbau der Erneuerbaren, über eine stärkere Nutzung des Stroms aus Europa bis hin zu weitgehender Selbstversorgung auf Basis von Kohle und Kernkraft – eine Analyse dreier Szenarien für den Strommix im Jahr 2030 zeigt: Deutschland bleibt weiterhin auf Erdgas angewiesen. Diese Zahlen liefert der aktuelle Energiewende-Index (EWI) von McKinsey. Aktuelles Fazit – und eine Verbesserung im Vergleich zum vorherigen EWI aus dem März 2022: 6 der 15 untersuchten Indikatoren  zum Status der Energiewende in Deutschland sind in ihrer Zielerreichung stabil realistisch – 6 stehen auf der Kippe, drei sind unrealistisch. Positiv entwickelte sich vor allem der Indikator Anteil Erneuerbarer am Bruttostromverbrauch, der wegen des guten Wetters im ersten Halbjahr von 41% auf fast 49% zulegte.

Erneuerbaren-Ausbau ist Herkulesaufgabe
„Deutschlands Energiewende steht vor der größten Bewährungsprobe ihrer Geschichte“, sagt Thomas Vahlenkamp, Senior Partner von McKinsey. „Unsere Szenarienanalyse zeigt: Erdgas wird auch zukünftig eine Rolle im Strommix spielen müssen. Wichtig ist es daher, die Importabhängigkeit durch Streuung von Lieferanten zu verringern. Teil der Strategie muss es außerdem sein, vermehrt grünen Wasserstoff für die Verstromung verfügbar zu machen.“

Wo Deutschland im Jahr 2030 bei der Energiewende stehen wird, kommt demzufolge entscheidend auf den Ausbau der Erneuerbaren Energien (EE) und die Situation am Gasmarkt an. Mit ihrer neuen Ambition, den EE-Anteil in Deutschland bis zum Ende dieses Jahrzehnts auf 80 % zu erhöhen, hat sich die Bundesregierung viel vorgenommen. Vahlenkamp: „Dieses Ziel zu erreichen, ist eine Herkulesaufgabe. Dafür muss die komplette Wertschöpfungskette rund um den EE-Ausbau befähigt werden: angefangen bei der Aufstockung der Produktionskapazitäten über schnellere Genehmigungsverfahren bis hin zur Anwerbung bzw. Weiterqualifikation ausreichend vieler Fachkräfte für den Bau und Betrieb der Anlagen.“ Um das 80%-Ziel zu erreichen, müssten jährlich PV-Anlagen mit einer Kapazität von 18 GW errichtet werden; in der Onshore-Windkraft müssten pro Jahr 1.800 Anlagen in Betrieb gehen – umgerechnet fünf pro Tag – und in der Offshore-Windkraft müsste sich die Kapazität nahezu vervierfachen. Auch Erdgas wird weiter eine Rolle spielen. Eine Entspannung der Lage aufgrund der breiteren Streuung von Lieferanten erscheint ebenso denkbar wie eine Fortschreibung der aktuell angespannten Situation. Die Folgen von letzterem wurden im aktuellen EWI modelliert. Vor diesem Hintergrund liegt es nahe, dass Politik und Energiewirtschaft danach streben, dass alle neuen Gaskraftwerke zugleich alternativ auch mit grünem Wasserstoff betrieben werden können.

Jedes der im aktuellen EWI modellierten Szenarien geht davon aus, dass der Strombedarf wie von der Bundesregierung prognostiziert bis 2030 auf 750 TWh ansteigt und der CO2-Preis bei 100 €/t liegt.

Im Basisszenario werden alle Vorgaben der  Bundesregierung zum EE-Ausbau bis 2030 erreicht (215 GW Solar PV, 115 GW Onshore- und 30 GW Offshore-Windkraft). Der Atomausstieg 2022 und der Kohleausstieg bis 2038 finden wie geplant statt; 17 GW Kohlekraftwerke sind 2030 noch in Betrieb. In diesem Szenario steigt 2030 die Produktion aus Erneuerbaren inklusive Biomasse, Wasserkraft und Geothermie auf 751 TWh – das entspricht einem EE-Anteil von 84 % an der deutschen Bruttostromproduktion (Netzverluste und Exporte eingeschlossen). Trotzdem – und ungeachtet der hohen Gaspreise – werden noch immer 68 TWh aus Erdgas erzeugt. Wasserstoff wiederum trägt mit 48 TWh zur Deckung der Stromnachfrage bei, umgerechnet rund 3 Mio. t. Zur Sicherstellung einer lückenlosen Versorgung bleibt Kohlestrom mit 63 TWh weiterhin ein wichtiger Energieträger, wenngleich die Stromproduktion aus Kohle gegenüber 2021 um mehr als 61 % sinken würde. In diesem Szenario würde Deutschland in Phasen hohen EE-Ertrags sogar mehr Strom produzieren als für den Eigenbedarf nötig (rund 91 TWh) und somit zum Netto-Stromexporteur.

Im Szenario „Strom aus Europa“ strebt Deutschland die europäische Integration im Stromsektor an und wird zum Netto- Stromimporteur. Der Grund: Es wird davon ausgegangen, dass Deutschland zwar den EE-Ausbau beschleunigt, aber seine ambitionierten Ziele nicht vollständig erreicht, weil nicht jedes Jahr Zubaurekorde zu erzielen sind. Vielmehr wird angenommen, dass die Ausbauraten einen Mittelwert aus historischem Durchschnitt und historischer Bestleistung bilden. 2030 werden nach diesem Szenario 112 GW Solar PV, 93 GW Onshore- und 23 GW Offshore-Windkraft installiert sein. Die stärkste Abweichung gegenüber dem ersten Szenario weist dabei Solar PV auf, da die Ausbauziele der Bundesregierung für diese Technologie im Vergleich die mit Abstand ambitioniertesten sind. In dem Szenario „Strom aus Europa“ wird simuliert, was passiert, wenn Deutschland hinter die ambitionierten EE-Ausbauziele zurückfällt. Stattdessen werden 33 TWh aus anderen europäischen Ländern importiert, hauptsächlich aus Dänemark, Norwegen und Schweden. Auf eine vermehrt CO2-intensive Stromproduktion wird damit verzichtet. Die Produktion aus Kohle allerdings ist in diesem Szenario trotz der Importe mit 88 TWh deutlich höher als im Basisszenario. Die Erzeugung aus Erdgas liegt mit 69 TWh auf einem vergleichbaren Niveau.

Im Szenario „Weitgehende Selbstversorgung“ versucht Deutschland, seine Energieabhängigkeit von anderen Ländern zu reduzieren und – falls keine Eigenproduktion möglich ist – seine Lieferanten breiter zu streuen. Zur Sicherstellung der Energieversorgung wird zum einen der Kohleausstieg nicht vollständig umgesetzt, so dass 2030 weiterhin Kohlekraftwerke mit einer Leistung von rund 34 GW zur Verfügung stehen. Zum anderen wird die Kapazität von Biomassekraftwerken von rund 9 auf 14 GW erhöht, indem die existierenden Anlagen am Netz gehalten und die jährlich geplanten Ausschreibungsmengen von 600 MW als Neuanlagen hinzugefügt werden. Hierzu müssten ausreichende Flächen für den Anbau von Energiepflanzen bereitgestellt werden, die dann allerdings weder für die Produktion von Nahrungsmitteln oder Biokraftstoff zur Verfügung stünden noch renaturiert werden könnten. Der EE-Ausbau vollzieht sich wie im Szenario „Strom aus Europa“, während sich Stromimport und -export hier in etwa die Waage halten. Hinsichtlich der Nutzung von Atomkraft werden zwei Varianten modelliert: Weiterbetrieb der Atommeiler bis mindestens 2030 und Abschaltung wie geplant. In diesem Szenario „Weitgehende Selbstversorgung“ werden die ambitionierten EE-Ausbauziele 2030 ebenfalls unterschritten und nur rund 520 TWh aus Erneuerbaren erzeugt – rund ein Drittel weniger als im Basisszenario. Stattdessen geht das Szenario von einer weit gehenden Ausnutzung der inländischen Ressourcen aus: Da der Kohleausstieg nicht wie geplant vollzogen worden ist, kann mehr Kohlestrom die Lücke schließen (+91 TWh bzw. +145 % im Vergleich zum Basisszenario). Gleichzeitig rechnet das Szenario mit einer teilweisen Kompensierung durch eine deutlich höhere Produktion von Biomasse (80 TWh gegenüber 49 TWh im Basisszenario). Erdgas- und wasserstoffbasierte Stromerzeugung gehen auf 65 bzw. 38 TWh zurück, denn Kohle ist trotz der CO2-Kosten immer noch günstiger. Die Werte ändern sich leicht, wenn Atomkraftwerke bis 2030 weiterlaufen: In diesem Fall wird die CO2-intensive Kohle- und Gasstromproduktion durch rund 30 TWh Atomstrom zumindest teilweise substituiert, so dass nur noch 143 TWh aus Kohle (-7 %) und 64 TWh (-1 %) aus Gas erzeugt werden. Der EE-Anteil liegt in diesem Szenario (sowohl mit als auch ohne Atomkraft) bei knapp über 67 % und damit unter dem Zielwert von 80 %.

Energiewende-Index September 2022: die 15 Indikatoren im Überblick
Die jüngste Entwicklung der 15 Indikatoren liefert ein gemischtes Bild. Gegenüber dem letzten Energiewende-Index vom März sinkt die Zahl der Indikatoren mit unrealistischer Zielerreichung von fünf auf drei und die mit stabil realistischer Zielerreichung steigt von drei auf sechs. Weitere sechs Indikatoren stehen auf der Kippe.

Der EE-Anteil am Bruttostromverbrauch steigt von 41 % in 2021 auf 49 % in der  ersten Jahreshälfte 2022. Die Verbesserung ist vor allem auf deutlich günstigere Witterungsverhältnisse zurückzuführen. Obwohl der Ausbau der Erneuerbaren weiterhin stockt, bewegt sich die Zielerreichung des Indikators weiter im stabil realistischen Bereich und steigt von 111 % auf 133 %. Allerdings dürfte es mit dem neuen Ziel der Bundesregierung, den EE-Anteil bis 2030 auf 80 % zu erhöhen, zunehmend schwieriger werden, auf dem Zielpfad zu bleiben. Der EE-Anteil am Bruttoendenergieverbrauch stieg um 0,4 Prozentpunkte auf 19,7 %. Hauptgrund ist die wirtschaftliche Erholung in 2021 und der damit einhergehende gestiegene Energiebedarf. Da die Zielmarke jedoch um 1,2 Prozentpunkte angehoben worden ist, sinkt die Zielerreichung des Indikators deutlich von 121 % auf 107 %. Sowohl Haushaltsstrompreis als auch Industriestrompreis haben sich trotz gestiegener Stromkosten deutlich verbessert. Das mag auf den ersten Blick überraschen, liegt aber in der Berechnungsmethodik des Indikators begründet, der die deutsche Strompreisentwicklung im Vergleich zum europäischen Durchschnitt abbildet: Steigen also die Preise im europäischen Ausland stärker als in Deutschland, verbessert sich der Indikator. Beim Haushaltsstrompreis betrug die Differenz zwischen Deutschland und dem europäischen Durchschnitt 2021 noch 22,7 %, im Juni 2022 dagegen nur mehr 16,2 %. Verbessert hat sich der Indikator vor allem deshalb, weil die Preise im europäischen Ausland schneller steigen als in Deutschland. Die Zielerreichung steigt von 111 % auf 137 %. Ob der Trend anhält, ist jedoch fraglich – steigende Großhandelspreise werden wahrscheinlich mit Verzögerung an die Endkunden weitergereicht. Andererseits wiederum dürfte der Wegfall der EEG-Umlage im Juli 2022 auf die hiesigen Haushaltsstrompreise mittelfristig entlastend wirken. Auch der Industriestrompreis ist zuletzt in Deutschland deutlich geringer gestiegen als im Ausland und liegt jetzt nur noch 16 % über dem europäischen Durchschnitt (Vorhalbjahr: 32 %). Der Indikator springt dadurch von 56 % auf jetzt 128 % Zielerreichung und wechselt damit in den realistischen Bereich. Auch hier bedeutet die Verbesserung des Indikators lediglich, dass die Preissteigerungen im Ausland (+33 %) höher ausgefallen sind als in Deutschland (+17 %). Verantwortlich ist dafür vor allem der höhere Anteil an Gebühren und Entgelten am deutschen Industriestrompreis, die durch die steigenden Energiepreise nicht beeinflusst werden. Für den Indikator Ausfall Stromversorgung wurden keine neuen Daten veröffentlicht. Er verharrt deshalb bei einer Zielerreichung von 117 %. Gleiches gilt für die Verfügbare Kapazität für Import aus Nachbarländern. Damit verbleibt auch dieser Indikator mit einer Zielerreichung von 208 % im realistischen Bereich.

Sechs Indikatoren auf der Kippe
Die aktuellen Hochrechnungen für den CO2e-Ausstoß und den Primärenergieverbrauch sehen beide Indikatoren auf der Kippe. Die Emissionen belaufen sich wie schon im Halbjahr zuvor auf 762 Mio. t CO2e; damit verharrt der Zielerreichungsgrad hier bei 84 %. Der Primärenergieverbrauch wiederum liegt nach wie vor bei 12.265 PJ – das entspricht einer Zielerreichung von 70 %. Für den Indikator Sektorkopplung Wärme wurden neue Hochrechnungen veröffentlicht. Der EE-Anteil am Endenergieverbrauch im Bereich Wärme und Kälte liegt danach aktuell bei 16,5 % und damit 0,9 Prozentpunkte über dem Wert des Vorhalbjahres. Damit bewegt sich der Indikator im Zielkorridor, steht aber auf der Kippe. Um dort auch in Zukunft zu bleiben, müsste der EE-Anteil bis Ende dieses Jahres auf 20,2 % steigen. Der Anteil der Gesamtenergiekosten Haushalte am Warenkorb der Verbraucher stieg zuletzt von 10,3 % auf 11,2 %. Damit sinkt die Zielerreichung erneut von 96 % auf jetzt 78 % und der Indikator bewegt sich in der Kategorie „auf der Kippe“ weiter nach unten. Grund hierfür sind die gestiegenen Preise für Benzin und Diesel, aber auch für Erdgas, wo sich die Neukundenpreise für Haushalte innerhalb eines Jahres vervielfacht haben. Für den Indikator Arbeitsplätze in erneuerbaren Energien liegen weiterhin keine neuen Daten vor. Er verharrt deshalb bei seiner bisherigen Zielerreichung von 96 %. Die gesicherte Reservemarge wird seit 2019 nicht mehr von den Übertragungsnetzbetreibern (ÜNB) veröffentlicht. Deshalb wird ab dieser Index-Ausgabe die Reservemarge basierend auf der Methodik und den Kernannahmen der ÜNB sowie öffentlich zugänglichen Daten neu berechnet. Im Ergebnis steht die Reservemarge aktuell mit 0,2 % nur knapp über Null und damit stärker denn je auf der Kippe. Der Rückgang gegenüber dem letzten von den ÜNB veröffentlichten Stand (2,3 %) erklärt sich aus der Stilllegung einiger fossiler Kraftwerke. Werden dann Ende dieses Jahres noch Kernkraftwerke mit einer Gesamtleistung von rund 4 GW heruntergefahren, fällt die Reservemarge aller Voraussicht nach bereits in den negativen Bereich. Bei einem Kohleausstieg bis 2030 wären es sogar mehr als 40 GW, die noch in diesem Jahrzehnt vom Netz gehen würden. Das würde die gesicherte Reservemarge massiv unter Druck setzen und fordert Anpassungen im Strommarktdesign, um die Versorgungssicherheit auch in Zukunft jederzeit zu gewährleisten.

Zielerreichung für drei Indikatoren unrealistisch
Der Indikator Sektorkopplung Verkehr sinkt leicht von 44 % auf 43 %. 2021 waren insgesamt 1,3 Mio. E-Fahrzeuge zugelassen, doch es wären 2,8 Mio. nötig, um im Plan zu bleiben. Ganz unerreichbar ist das 2030er-Ziel dennoch nicht, da die E-Mobilität derzeit überproportional wächst, während der Energiewende-Index in seiner Berechnung von einer linearen Entwicklung ausgeht. Die Kosten für Netzeingriffe sind mit aktuell 8,1 € pro MWh weiterhin weit vom Startwert (1 € pro MWh) entfernt. Gegenüber der ersten Jahreshälfte hat sich dieser Wert aufgrund geringerer Aufwendungen für das Einspeisemanagement allerdings leicht verbessert. Der Zielerreichungsgrad steigt von 39 % auf 50 % . Kaum Fortschritte gibt es beim Indikator Ausbau Transportnetze: Zwar wurden in den vergangenen beiden Quartalen rund 160 km fertiggestellt; die Gesamtlänge beträgt jetzt 2.005 km. Allerdings bleibt der Ausbau weiter deutlich hinter dem Zielwert von 4.977 km insgesamt und knapp 500 km pro Halbjahr zurück. Die Zielerreichung des Indikators beträgt 37 %.

Source:

McKinsey & Company, Deutschland

Photo: pixabay
03.05.2022

The Journey to Carbon Neutrality: Reduction technologies and measuring tools

More and more sports and fashion brands are setting themselves the goal of becoming climate neutral within the next few years, on a corporate as well as product level. The CO2 balance serves as the gateway to sustainable apparel and for more transparency for the consumer.

This process begins with the materials supplied by textile producers, requiring knowledge of the amount of CO2 emitted during production. By evaluating and quantifying CO2 emissions, the industry gains in transparency and can turn to more sustainable options.

More and more sports and fashion brands are setting themselves the goal of becoming climate neutral within the next few years, on a corporate as well as product level. The CO2 balance serves as the gateway to sustainable apparel and for more transparency for the consumer.

This process begins with the materials supplied by textile producers, requiring knowledge of the amount of CO2 emitted during production. By evaluating and quantifying CO2 emissions, the industry gains in transparency and can turn to more sustainable options.

In close collaboration with sustainability insights platform Higg and partners such as Climate Partner, PERFORMANCE DAYS Munich and Functional Fabric Fair by PERFORMANCE DAYS Portland seek targeted answers to the question, “How can we cut down on CO2 emissions?” as part of its roadmap over the next three fairs. The Focus Topic “The Journey to Carbon Neutrality” will therefore highlight materials and fibers that provide solutions on how to produce and reprocess materials in the future in a climate-friendly manner, kicking off at the spring trade fair, to be held at the Oregon Convention Center in Portland on April 4-5, 2022, at the Munich’s Exhibition Center on April 27-28, 2022, continuing through the winter fair in October/November and culminating at the Spring 2023 fair.

When the conversation turns to environmental protection and climate change these days, the term CO2 neutrality is also often mentioned in connection with CO2 emissions and CO2 reduction. Yet what exactly does CO2 neutrality mean? Climate neutrality implies achieving a balance between carbon emissions themselves and the absorption of carbon in the atmosphere into carbon sinks. To achieve net zero emissions, all greenhouse gas emissions worldwide must be offset by carbon sequestration. The fashion and sportswear industries are among the world’s highest emitters of CO2.

If one wishes to examine their emissions across all stages of the value chain, it is worth looking beyond raw materials, production, logistics and trade. Consumer behavior can also influence emissions: According to the “Fashion on Climate” report published by the Global Fashion Agenda and McKinsey at the end of August 2020, even greater leverage lies in the products themselves: 61 percent of reductions in emissions could be achieved through CO2 reductions in material production and processing, by minimizing production and manufacturing waste, and in the manufacturing of garments. By 2030, that would account for around 1 billion tons annually. And last but not least, consumer behavior is also a factor that impacts the fashion industry’s climate footprint. If even more attention is paid to sustainable clothing, and if it is reused and worn longer, this can lead to a reduction in emissions of up to 347 million tons, according to the report.

A pioneering example on the road to sustainability was PERFORMANCE DAYS’ decision to only present sustainable materials at the PERFORMANCE FORUM from the trade fair event in November 2019 onwards. And from the upcoming Spring Fair onwards, the sustainable approach will be heightened further. Within the framework of this roadmap, the new Focus Topic is intended to accompany exhibitors on their way to climate neutrality over the course of three fairs. In doing so, PERFORMANCE DAYS and Functional Fabric Fair are pursuing a 3-step plan.  

  • Step 1, April 2022: The focus of the upcoming fair will be on CO2-reducing technologies and the measuring of a product’s carbon footprint.
  • Step 2, November 2022: Within the entire Focus Topic product category, only products that indicate CO2 emissions caused during production will be shown. This contributes to more transparency and comparability in the industry.
  • Step 3, April 2023: The PERFORMANCE FORUM will present the amount of CO2 emitted by each individual product. Furthermore, approaches to solutions will be shown as to how CO2 released during the manufacturing of materials can be offset and further reduced.

For the best possible implementation and presentation of the new Focus Topic, PERFORMANCE DAYS and Functional Fabric Fair trust in collaborators: Higg and Climate Partner – amongst others – will accompany the next three fairs. The Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI) is considered the leading tool for assessing the environmental impact of materials in the apparel, footwear and textile industries. The Higg MSI is able to calculate the environmental impact of millions of possible material manufacturing variants. A packaging library has also been added to assist in making sustainable decisions for packaging. The Higg Index is neither a certificate nor a label, but rather an important self-assessment tool that textile companies can utilize internally to be able to identify and improve environmental and social issues throughout their value chain.

Climate Partner, on the other hand, seeks solutions for climate protection: This involves the balancing of CO2 emissions – which in turn are to offset the emissions of companies with recognized climate protection projects in order to make products, services and companies climate neutral. Climate Partner also sees itself as an advisor to companies on their climate protection strategies. Together, the aim is to work on reducing CO2 emissions and to support climate protection projects that benefit the everyday lives of people in developing countries. 

Source:

PERFORMANCE DAYS

Photo: unsplash
19.04.2022

Off-price - Boom in bargain hunting

  • Off-price becomes a growth machine for the fashion industry
  • Off-price segment grows five times faster than regular offer
  • Growth of online sales in the off-price segment tripled - market share 40%
  • Future growth almost exclusively online

Fashion consumers in Germany appreciate bargain hunting. The off-price segment, in which high-end fashion brands are offered at lower prices in online and offline outlets, was already growing faster than the entire fashion industry before 2020 and has shrunk less during the pandemic. Between 2025 and 2030, the segment is expected to grow five times faster than the entire fashion industry. One reason for this is the strong online presence of this product offering, which benefited from the boom in online shopping during the pandemic.

  • Off-price becomes a growth machine for the fashion industry
  • Off-price segment grows five times faster than regular offer
  • Growth of online sales in the off-price segment tripled - market share 40%
  • Future growth almost exclusively online

Fashion consumers in Germany appreciate bargain hunting. The off-price segment, in which high-end fashion brands are offered at lower prices in online and offline outlets, was already growing faster than the entire fashion industry before 2020 and has shrunk less during the pandemic. Between 2025 and 2030, the segment is expected to grow five times faster than the entire fashion industry. One reason for this is the strong online presence of this product offering, which benefited from the boom in online shopping during the pandemic.

"Online accounts for 40% of the market in the off-price segment and is growing rapidly at an average of 13% per year. Almost all of the growth in off-price will take place online in the next three years," says Katharina Schumacher, digital expert and author of the study entitled "Mastering off-price fashion in an omnichannel world". "This opens up opportunities for fashion companies to reach new consumers with their brand who would not normally consider a full-price purchase."
          
For the study, global data on the off-price market was analysed and 11,000 consumers in ten countries were surveyed. German shoppers are particularly interested in bargains. In the past year, many consumers in Germany have increasingly shopped online. In the off-price segment, the growth of the online market has tripled: from 9% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) in 2020 to 27% in 2021.

By 2025, growth in Germany as well as in Austria could amount to 16% per year. The average in the EU lies at 13%. In addition, offprice offers fashion brands the opportunity to sell their surplus goods in a sustainable way.

Typical online off-price consumers, so-called enthusiasts, are particularly interested in luxury, affordable luxury and premium products and buy on specialised platforms such as dress-for-less, BestSecret, brands4friends or Scarce. They value style and usually start without a specific brand in mind. They enjoy comparing prices and spend 2.3 times more than other fashion consumers. In Germany, 30% of off-price shoppers who spend more than 1,000 euros per year account for 70% of total fashion spending. "However, these shoppers are generally willing to pay full price for premium and luxury brands," says Achim Berg, fashion industry expert at McKinsey. "Fashion suppliers should therefore carefully consider which goods they offer off-price."

Offline purchases with increasing expectations
Off-price shoppers who shop in stores are often younger and have a higher purchasing power than other fashion consumers. They like to shop in outlet centres, while they often shy away from going to a regular luxury shop on a shopping mall.
"Outlets therefore offer luxury fashion companies the opportunity not only to increase their profitability but also to reach new groups of shoppers without cannibalising their full-price assortment and damaging their brand," says Felix Rölkens, McKinsey expert for the fashion industry and co-author of the study. "However, shoppers expect more and more from outlets: comparable shop layouts as in regular brick-and-mortar retail, multilingual shoppers, restaurants and a good shopping experience."
          

Source:

McKinsey & Company

Photo: Pixabay
12.04.2022

Disrupted supply chains: Only nearshoring and digital technologies will help in the long term

  • McKinsey survey: Globally, more than 90 percent of supply chain managers are investing in the resilience of their supply chains during the Corona crisis.
  • But more often than not, they are simply increasing inventories instead of focusing on long-term effective measures such as regionalization of suppliers.
  • Only the healthcare industry has consistently relied on nearshoring and regionalization of suppliers so far.

Supply chain managers worldwide are under pressure: More than 90 percent invested during the Corona crisis to make their supply chains more resilient to external disruptions. More often than planned, however, supply chain managers resorted to the ad hoc measure of simply increasing inventories. And less often than planned, they also relied on long-term effects by regionalizing their supply base.

  • McKinsey survey: Globally, more than 90 percent of supply chain managers are investing in the resilience of their supply chains during the Corona crisis.
  • But more often than not, they are simply increasing inventories instead of focusing on long-term effective measures such as regionalization of suppliers.
  • Only the healthcare industry has consistently relied on nearshoring and regionalization of suppliers so far.

Supply chain managers worldwide are under pressure: More than 90 percent invested during the Corona crisis to make their supply chains more resilient to external disruptions. More often than planned, however, supply chain managers resorted to the ad hoc measure of simply increasing inventories. And less often than planned, they also relied on long-term effects by regionalizing their supply base. These are the key findings of a comparative study for which management consultants McKinsey & Company surveyed more than 70 supply chain managers from leading companies worldwide - for the first time in 2020 and again this year. Further results: Digital technologies are used much more frequently today than at the beginning of the pandemic, for example real-time monitoring or analytics based on artificial intelligence (AI).

The survey also quantifies the striking shortage of IT specialists in the area of supply management: in 2021, only one percent of the companies surveyed had enough IT specialists. "In the wake of the digitalization push, the need for IT skills is becoming even more of a bottleneck than it already has been," reports Vera Trautwein, McKinsey expert for supply chain management and co-author of the study. "As a result, the scope for action is also decreasing dramatically." In 2020, ten percent of the supply chain managers surveyed still had access to sufficient experts with the relevant IT know-how in their departments. How did the supply chain managers act during the crisis? Almost all respondents (92 percent) have invested in the resilience of their supply chains, and 80 percent have also invested in digital supply chain technologies. But while 40 percent of the 2020 respondents in McKinsey's first "Supply Chain Pulse" had still planned nearshoring and expanding their supplier base, only 15 percent ultimately put this into action. Instead, significantly more managers than expected - 42 percent versus 27 percent - expanded their inventories.

The 2020/21 comparative study also shows that supply chain managers have acted very differently in the crisis, depending on the industry. Healthcare can be considered a pioneer in the regionalization of the supply chain: 60 percent of the respondents in the industry have actually concentrated procurement, production and sales in a region such as Europe or North America, which they have also announced. In 2020, 33 percent of companies in the automotive, aerospace and defense industries had also announced this. However, according to their own figures, only 22 percent actually did so. This was despite the fact that more than three quarters of supply chain managers had given this measure priority. The chemicals and raw materials sectors made the fewest changes to their supply chains.

After the crisis is before the crisis
Over the years, supply chains have evolved into a high-frequency sensitive organism. Consistently globalized, optimized to fluctuations in consumer demand and with as little inventory as possible to cut costs. "This strategy has left companies vulnerable," notes McKinsey partner Knut Alicke. "And during the crisis, measures were taken that were more effective in the short term." As a result, supply chains are not yet resilient enough to prevent future disruptions. "For companies, nearshoring of suppliers remains a key factor in increasing their crisis resilience in the medium to long term." In addition, however, he said, the expansion and use of digital technologies are the key factors for resilient supply chains.

The pressure to act is great: Massive supply chain disruptions occur on average every 3.7 years and disrupt supply chains for at least one month. This was the conclusion of another McKinsey study on supply chains entitled "Risk, resilience, and rebalancing in global value chains" back in 2020.

Source:

McKinsey & Company [Düsseldorf, Germany]

CHIC Shanghai - THE MOTTO 'NEW MAKERS' BY CHIC INTERPRETS THE PROGRESSIVE CHANGE IN THE CHINESE FASHION BUSINESS Photo: JANDALI MODE.MEDIEN.MESSEN
26.06.2018

CHIC Shanghai - THE MOTTO 'NEW MAKERS' INTERPRETS THE PROGRESSIVE CHANGE IN THE CHINESE FASHION BUSINESS

  • The important trade fair platform for entry into the Chinese consumer market with China's most influential consumer group for the fashion and beauty sector with the strongest growth in consumption - the millennials - as target group
  • The international fashion showcase for decision makers with an overview of na-tional and international fashion brands
  • Strategic market development through comprehensive visitor marketing for inter-national brands at CHIC

 
CHIC, China International Fashion Fair presents around 800 exhibitors in an exhibition space of approx. 50,000 sqm (CHIC in March 100,000 sqm) in two halls from 27 to 29 September 2018 at the National Exhibition & Convention Center in Shanghai.

  • The important trade fair platform for entry into the Chinese consumer market with China's most influential consumer group for the fashion and beauty sector with the strongest growth in consumption - the millennials - as target group
  • The international fashion showcase for decision makers with an overview of na-tional and international fashion brands
  • Strategic market development through comprehensive visitor marketing for inter-national brands at CHIC

 
CHIC, China International Fashion Fair presents around 800 exhibitors in an exhibition space of approx. 50,000 sqm (CHIC in March 100,000 sqm) in two halls from 27 to 29 September 2018 at the National Exhibition & Convention Center in Shanghai.
The current conditions for international fashion companies in the Chinese market offer significant improvements for international brands. Import tariffs will be lowered from 15.9% to 7.1% to further promote the import and upgrade of the industry.  

The McKinsey study "THE `Chinese consumer´ no longer exists” defines Chinese consumers no longer as interested only in low prices, but as selective, healthconscious with diverse shopping hab-its and preferences. The fashion awareness changes to an individual sense of style, influenced by international and national trends. China's millennials are the WORLD'S most influential consumer group, with a 16% share of the population, driving consumption growth in the Chinese market and contributing more than 20% from today until 2030.  
 
According to the edition's motto "New Makers", Asia's leading fashion fair is picking up on the latest changes in the Chinese fashion market and providing the essential tools for the Chinese market. The new, young design of the fair, which was launched in March this year at CHIC, is being ex-panded. The individual sections of CHIC present the latest trends in the Chinese and international fashion market. CHIC connects and brokers partnerships and launches the new generation gar-ment industry, which builds on high-tech strategies and interlinks industrial production with modern information and communication technologies, relying on intelligent, digitally networked systems in self-organized production.

The individual fashion areas of CHIC  
FASHION JOURNEY puts the focus on interna-tional exhibitors. In addition to the large Italian pavilion, the French pavilion "Paris Forever" and the Korean show-inshow "Preview in China", in-dividual participants from Poland, the UK, France, Italy, Spain, Japan and the USA use CHIC as a bridge in the Chinese market. The next German group participation is planned for March 2019, whereby Germany will also be rep-resented with individual brands such as ESISTO in the area NEW LOOK.

IMPULSES, CHIC's designer section, features emerging designer brands such as Junne, Hua Mu Shen, King Ping, Anjaylia, Mao Mart homme, Tuffcan, etc.

The SUSTAINABILITY ZONE, first showcased at CHIC in the fall of 2017, is receiving even greater emphasis due to the increasing environmental and health awareness of Chinese consum-ers, featuring sustainable supply chain solutions, sustainable innovation and sustainable fashion collections. Programs such as Chemical Stewardship 2020, Carbon Stewardship 2020, Water Stewardship 2020 and Circular Stewardship 2020 are presented. The womenswear section NEW LOOK of CHIC presents next to the leading Chinese brands like AVRALA, and CMH also international brands like Saint James from France, ESISTO from Ger-many, Trenz Eight from Canada or PN JONE, USA.

Beside the suppliers of classic menswear, URBAN VIEW, the menswear section, also includes casualwear brands like NRDMA and SUPIN as well as bespoke companies like H. Pin& Tack, Jin Yuan Yang, Fa Lan Qian Mu, Long Sheng and DANDINGHE.
CHIC YOUNG BLOOD shows young lifestyle brands, KID'S PARADISE offers e.g the largest fashion group in China for children's fashion XTEP KIDS.

SECRET STARS (fashion accessories), SHANGHAI BAG (bags), HERITAGE (leather & fur), SUPERIOR FACTORY (ODM) and FUTURE LINK (services) complete the fashion offer at CHIC. FUTURE LINK gathers fashion service providers for among others supply chain solutions, smart retail and smart production, RFID, laser technology and data utilization.

Visitor management
On the rise in China's retail scene, multi brand and custom stores are the fastest growing offline sector. The number has increased significantly in the last five years from less than 100 to more than 5,000 stores. Exclusive shopping experiences and an individual offer are important. Custom-ers value a wide range of products: a mix of international and national exclusive brands is the most common concept.

The high investments of the CHIC organizers in the visi-tor management for the fair pay off: CHIC has a per-sonalized trade visitor database of over 200,000 con-tacts, which are used intensively for the visitor marketing in the run-up to the fair for a commercial matching for the exhibitors. At the fair, VIP match making activities will take place especially for selected international brands, that will have the opportunity to present them-selves there and make the relevant contacts in the Chi-nese trade. Meetings are organized among others with multi brand stores and buyers such as The Fashion Door, Dong Liang, Jing Dong, VIP Shop and department stores, and retailers such as Carrefour, Amazon, De-cathlon, Wang Fujing, etc. An important tool for the CHIC visitor marketing is social media; for this special programs are run, in which individual brands are pre-sented to prospective visitors.    

CHIC is visited by representatives of all distribution channels for distribution in the Chinese market, at the last event in autumn 2017 more than 65,722 visitors from all over China and other nations were registered at the CHIC, with a significant increase in multi brand stores.
 
Seminars and shows

The future of fashion business in China will be discussed in a panel of experts as part of CHIC TALKS. Furthermore, a trend seminar from WGSN for FW 2019 and a workshop on bag and shoe production from the Moda Pelle Academy are planned.

CHIC shows provide an overview of selected international brands.

CHIC is organized by Beijing Fashion Expo. Co. ltd. and China World Exhibitions, supported by China National Garment Association, The Sub-Council of Textile Industry (CCPIT) and China World Trade Center.

Supply chains in Asia are in motion © Tokamuwi/ pixelio.de
08.03.2016

SUPPLY CHAINS IN ASIA ARE IN MOTION

  • Vietnam is largest beneficiary
  • Relocation closer to sales markets

Hong Kong (gtai) - For global consumer product manufacturers, Asia has developed an important role as a procurement region. Large parts of production have been displaced in recent decades into the region and here traditionally mainly to China. The rising costs in China however lead to a strategy adjustment. Thus the production moved on to cheaper locations and a shift back closer to the end customer began. Free trade arrangements support this trend.

  • Vietnam is largest beneficiary
  • Relocation closer to sales markets

Hong Kong (gtai) - For global consumer product manufacturers, Asia has developed an important role as a procurement region. Large parts of production have been displaced in recent decades into the region and here traditionally mainly to China. The rising costs in China however lead to a strategy adjustment. Thus the production moved on to cheaper locations and a shift back closer to the end customer began. Free trade arrangements support this trend.

Labor costs in China will not move down again. Even when the economic growth increasingly weakens, China's coastal regions are already often too expensive for wage-intensive productions. The world's largest location of the manufacturing sector will anyway leave its dependence of exports and will generate more growth through domestic consumption. The remaining companies are therefore increasingly focused on Chinese customers. Has the textile industry heard the signals already several years ago and shifted away, now the electronics companies have started to search.

But – the relocation of production is not so easy, the experts agreed upon at the discussion panel Shifting Supply Chains in Asia on the Asian Financial Forum (AFF) in Hong Kong. Because no country, except India, offers such a workforce. But neither the infrastructure and the investment climate can match, nor the country has any interest in low-production stages. Furthermore China has set up a supply industry without any comparison.

Relocation trends slow down

Even Bangladesh, established for a long time as a cheap location for clothes, is losing its attractiveness - experts say. Besides fundamentally difficult production conditions especially scandals like collapsing factories are responsible. No western clothing manufacturer likes to be associated with that repute today. While Indonesia was generally judged for being rather little investment friendly, the Philippines would provide a better reputation than years ago. So in addition to numerous Japanese producers also German companies have moved from southern China to the special areas of the Philippines.

Due to wage cost increases by an average of 15% per year, China with it’s the low-wage area has catapulted itself in a large extent out of the market. In times of rising productivity this was compensated for a while but at last the model came to its limits. The empire of the middle will therefore make the leap to a consumptionbased growth based on production of high-tech and on the provision of services. It is still
unclear whether this leap across the "middleincome trap" will succeed. Many emerging countries are caught in this trap, and the growth is flagging.

German buyers order less in China

Accordingly German retailers are increasingly reducing their imports from China and buy more and more in other countries. This is the result of a member survey of the Foreign Trade Association of German Retailers (AVE), at which for the most part textile and shoe retailers participated. 80% of the respondents have already reduced their import volume from China in 2015, 90% of the companies said they are
planning to source from other supply regions. The merchants are seeing a shift to countries like Myanmar (78%), Bangladesh (67%) and Vietnam (56%).

Vietnam, which already benefited in recent years from the relocation, was still recommended on the AFF as a top location. The country with the highest economic growth in Southeast Asia in 2015 would have risen in the 1st half of 2015 to the fourth-largest exporter of textiles, the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) analyzed. For shoes it is already the third largest supplier worldwide. Based on mega investments from Samsung, now the electronics industry came out of the starting blocks and should attract more activities. Experts cite especially the mixture of young, growing populations with low labor costs as an important locational advantage.

Vietnam benefits from Free Trade Agreements (FTA)

A thrust Vietnam's attractiveness currently receives through free trade agreements which are in a final stage. So a free trade agreement with the European Union was signed in December 2015 which was followed early February 2016 by the Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP). The latter agreement, which includes next to ten other Pacific neighbors the United States, should bring a large benefit for Vietnam. For the Vietnamese consumer goods manufacturers the US is the most important market, the large retailers in the United States can move their procurements very fast.

As an underdeveloped member Vietnam is likely to get larger portions of the value chain in the textile and electronics area at the ratification (and even before). The country is still missing a developed supplier structure. This is just happening to be built in the textile sector, there are investments in capacity for yarns, fabrics and dyeing going on. For Samsung, the largest foreign investor, all components are still coming
from China. And only when a large proportion of the added value comes from TPP member states, the low duty will become applicable.

While the purchasing power is not quite so big in Europe, costs play an important role also there. But next to it the control of the supply chain and the flexibility has developed a greater role, rapid changes of trends and collections are determined by customers and the Internet. Therefore also here a shift back, closer to the markets, has begun. Romania and Bulgaria have established themselves in the middle of
Europe as a "low-wage locations". But even there the population is characterized by aging. Accordingly labor forces will become scare and wages will rise. Ukraine is traded as a new location.

Africa still with small potential

Little potential the experts from the Supply Chain Panels evidence the location of sub-Saharan Africa. This was tested by some buyers or producers, but the results would not be convincing. The views however diverge. Some Chinese companies are already partly on site and American manufacturers are monitoring the further development. So, for example, the VF Corporation, the largest denim retailer in the world, is buying in Africa. Only Ethiopia would have potential - according to a representative. But the infrastructure, investment climate and working morale could not be comparable.

So - basically serious alternatives to the established locations are lacking. Therefore, due to the scarcity of labor, costs and thus the final prices will rise. Even in Vietnam the minimum wage increased by 15% in 2015. But when it will be hardly possible to turn at the purchase screw, the companies need to position themselves better in marketing and sales, so a large clothing buyer. Therefore social media must be used in order to come closer to the customer and, for example, to develop individualization as a selling point.

The buying hotspots for clothes for the upcoming years (survey early 2015)
Country Named among the Top-3
Bangladesh 48%
Vietnam 33%
India 30%
Myanmar 30%
Turkey 30%
PR China 23%
Ethiopia 13%
Indonesia 10%
Egypt 5%
Sri Lanka 5%
Tunesia 5%

Source: McKinsey survey of chief purchasing managers