From the Sector

HeiQ AeoniQ™ becomes an active brand partner of the Canopy initiative with eleven other companies to address the growing climate and biodiversity crises by committing to keep Ancient and Endangered Forests out of our man-made cellulosic fiber supply chain.

The commitments that HeiQ AeoniQ™ is making are part of solutions-driven non-profit Canopy’s Pack4Good and CanopyStyle initiatives which currently represent collectively 950 brand partners. Together, the initiatives are shifting supply chains away from vital forests to low-impact, circular Next Gen Solutions.

“We must rapidly replace oil-based polyester in the textile industry causing microplastics, global warming, landfill and ecosystem degradation. Cellulose is the most abundant biopolymer in the world and is best suited to replace polyester. However, we must pay attention to cellulose feedstock sources. Our forests, a potential cellulose feedstock, are one of the most important solutions to addressing the effects of climate change. Approximately 2.6 billion tons of carbon dioxide, one-third of the CO₂ released from burning fossil fuels, is absorbed by forests every year. Around 12.5% of global greenhouse gas emissions (5-10 GtCO₂e annually) come from deforestation. We are losing forests at an alarming rate. Every year, around 10 million hectares of forests globally are destroyed. We need immediate action to increase forests again. Canopy is our go-to partner to replace polyester with circular & sustainable cellulose feedstock for our innovative HeiQ AeoniQ™ fiber revolution.” said Carlo Centonze, HeiQ Group CEO.

Paper packaging is also a key driver of forest loss globally, as 3.1 billion trees are cut down annually to produce the boxes and bags in which products are packaged and shipped. Paper packaging production has increased by 65% over the past two years.

“The range of companies and sectors represented in today’s announcement reflects the breadth of market response to the growing climate and biodiversity crises and intensifying supply chain disruptions,” said Nicole Rycroft, Founder and Executive Director of Canopy. “Today’s brand partners add significant momentum to global conservation efforts and the movement to transform ‘take, make, waste’ supply chains to be lower-impact and Next Gen.”

Today, as part of Pack4Good, HeiQ AeoniQ™ committed to:

• Eliminate Ancient and Endangered Forests from our paper packaging supply chain.
• Reduce material use through design innovation.
• Maximize recycled content.
• Explore and scale alternative Next Gen fibers (such as agricultural residues).
• Where virgin fiber is necessary, use FSC-certified fiber.

Archroma celebrated 100 years of sulfur dye innovation at its manufacturing and research hub in Castellbisbal, near Barcelona in Spain.

The milestone was marked at an on-site ceremony attended by more than 250 guests, including authorities from the Catalan government, senior Archroma leaders from Spain and overseas, current and former staff, key customers and suppliers and other important stakeholders.

The Castellbisbal site traces its roots back to 1921, when Joan Cardoner Vidal founded a dye manufacturing company that was eventually bought by Sandoz, which was subsequently acquired by Clariant, and later, SK Capital to create Archroma. Its breakthroughs have helped sulfur dyeing technology become a staple in the production of denim, casual wear and workwear fabrics over the past 100 years, with excellent color fastness and cost-efficiency.

Home to a leading research center that has contributed numerous innovations, Castellbisbal is particularly known for the creation of Archroma’s DIRESUL® RDT range in the 1980’s, which entered the market as the first low sulfide pre-reduced sulfur dyes.

Recently, Archroma developed the cutting-edge DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK which enables a significant impact reduction in the dye synthesis, allowing for the creation of new black denim styles.
Among patented technologies from the Castellbisbal-based research team are the DIRESUL® EarthColors and FiberColors dyes, which use waste from the food and textile industries respectively as raw materials. These revolutionary innovations manufactured at Castellbisbal for customers, brands and retailers, help to advance circularity in the textile industry.

On display at Sculpture by the Sea, the land art event that brings the Sydney coastline to life every year, is “Seabilia”, Elena Redaelli’s latest work created using waste fabric from Sitip’s production processes. A creation that draws attention to the environment and its fragility in the face of human activity, “Seabilia” is a reminder of how precious yet delicate this balance is, and how humans must become mindful of their actions before the effects end up being completely irreversible.

Sitip's commitment to environmental sustainability struck a chord with Elena Redaelli, and a meeting between the Bergamo-based textile company and the artist from Erba, Italy, led to “Seabilia”, a work that will be displayed as part of Sculpture by the Sea on Tamarama Beach near Bondi in Sydney.

It’s one of the most popular events to take place in this corner of Australia, attracting half a million visitors who flock to these Aussie beaches to admire more than one hundred works created by artists from all over the world.

Held since 1997, this event captures the imagination of its visitors for three weeks each austral spring and, thanks to the vast area it covers, has earned the title of largest annual sculpture exhibition in the world.

The 2023 edition, scheduled to take place from 20 October to 6 November, will feature Elena Redaelli's work created using waste Native-Cosmopolitan Kyoto fabric which, having failed the company's quality control tests, was donated to the artist.

A post-consumer recycled circular knit fabric composed of 89% recycled polyester (PLR), 11% elastane (EA), and weighing 240 grams, the Native-Cosmopolitan Kyoto is made from recycled yarns derived from plastic waste that’s been recovered from the environment, particularly from the sea and from recycling centres. The fabric is Bluesign, GRS (Global Recycled Standard) and OEKO-TEX certified, attesting to Sitip's commitment to environmental responsibility and protection.

During the process, the artist hand-cut the waste fabric and crocheted the pieces together using recycled cotton and other types of thread.

In the creative mind of the artist, the genesis of “Seabilia” arose from deep in the ocean where tiny creatures inhabit the darkest, least explored parts of the planet. A place where the rhythm of life for the inhabitants is marked by silence and obscurity, while waves and tides agitate the surface above. The life of the ocean, such a vast and imposing environment, is impacted every single day by human activity, slowly weakening its delicate balance. “Seabilia” is intended to act as a reminder of how precious yet extremely fragile this balance is, and how humans must become more aware of the consequences of their actions before it’s too late and such a vital asset is lost forever.

“Following Emersione, a work that was exhibited at the Ex Ateneo in Bergamo during Fiber Storming, a textile art exhibition organised by ArteMorbida Textile Arts Magazine and curated by Barbara Pavan, Seabilia is the second art project where I’ve had the opportunity to utilise SITIP's fabrics. – explains the artist, Elena Redaelli. As it was going to be displayed on the rocks at Tamarama Beach, my installation needed a durable, elastic fabric with structural characteristics capable of withstanding ocean winds and sudden changes in weather. Using waste Native-Cosmopolitan Kyoto fabric was the obvious choice, not just because of its very high quality, but also, and more importantly, because it’s made from recycled yarns derived from plastic waste that’s been recovered from the environment, often even from the sea itself. The different textures and shades of white enabled me to create a varied work that, despite the almost monochromatic tones, conjures a diverse range of tactile sensations. The biomorphic modular composition evokes skeletons of sea creatures that appear to have been deposited onto the rocks by a wave and left there to wither in the blazing Australian sun.”

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan will participate in the A+A 2023—Safety, Security and Health at Work International Trade Fair in Düsseldorf, Germany (24th-27th October 2023). On display will be the company's latest safety-related technology through its new SPG®-R pile glove knitting machine and the prototype SFG®-R next-generation glove knitting machine. Each of these machines drew attention at SHIMA SEIKI's booth at the International Textile Machinery (ITMA 2023) Exhibition in Milan.

SHIMA SEIKI's original SPG®, developed in 1979 as the world’s first automatic glove knitting machine to produce seamless pile-knitted gloves, is now reborn as a next-generation model. Pile gloves feature special traits that include cushioning, shock-reduction and thermal insulation and cold protection, making them popular especially in the field of industrial safety. Now, SPG® is redesigned from the ground up and re-introduced as the SPG®-R. The new SPG®-R features a new moveable sinker system with selectable loop presser function. Combined with a new belt-driven carriage it allows SPG® to provide efficient and reliable production of fashionable, high-quality pile gloves. Shown in 7 gauge at A+A, SPG®-R surpasses the previous generation with pioneering technology, improved capability and reliable productivity.

SHIMA SEIKI's original product on which the company was founded was the fully automated seamless glove knitting machine. While the original model evolved to become the current SFG® series, SFG®-R exhibited at A+A is its spiritual successor. With a new sinker system, a belt-driven 2-cam carriage and auto yarn carriers SFG®-R is a completely new machine for knitting gloves that conform better to the shape of the hand for improved fit. Furthermore its greater design potential offers users the opportunity to break out of the work glove market and into the fashion market. SFG®-R is shown as a prototype next-generation model in 12 gauge at A+A.

Also demonstrated will be SHIMA SEIKI's APEXFiz® design software. The importance of design software is made even more significant by the new patterning capabilities of SPG®-R and SFG®-R. Both machines now feature increased design potential that allow each of their products—pile gloves and work gloves, respectively—to expand their market into fashion. APEXFiz® is available for developing these designs. Furthermore virtual sampling on APEXFiz® is especially effective in streamlining the production process. Ultra-realistic simulation capability allows the use of virtual samples for evaluating design variations without producing actual samples for each variation, thereby minimizing the time, cost and resources normally required with sample-making, supporting smart, speedy and sustainable production.

Digital fashion outlet Otrium announces the launch of a dedicated garment refurbishment and repair programme for damaged returns following a successful pilot scheme. The initiative is being run in partnership with Bleckmann, experts in supply chain management for fashion and lifestyle brands. Working with Bleckmann’s team of circular fashion experts from The Renewal Workshop, Otrium is taking the next step in its strategic journey to help reduce the number of that might ultimately end up in landfills or destroyed.
 
Most of the returns that Otrium currently receives can be easily restored and put back on sale. However, in rare cases, returned items are damaged. “Preventing waste is an important part of Otrium’s DNA, and thanks to our partnership with Bleckmann and their Renewal Workshop team, we can now repair the majority of damaged returns and put them back into circulation,” said Kevin Carolan, Director of Logistics at Otrium. “We are happy that we can use our position in the fashion supply chain to create lasting change and accelerate towards our mission of reducing the volume of garments that go to landfill.”

Since 2020, Otrium is exploring refurbishment and repairs with their third-party logistics provider Bleckmann. In April 2023, both partners started a three-month pilot at Bleckmann’s facility in Almelo, the Netherlands, to expand the programme with a broader range of repairs and optimised processes through data use. During the pilot, the Renewal Workshop team at Bleckmann refurbished more than 1,000 returned garments, shoes and accessories for Otrium each month.

“With hundreds of high-end labels on the platform, we needed an efficient solution tailored to the needs of a wide range of products – from shoes and coats to bags,” explained Marlot Kiveron, Head of Sustainability at Otrium. “The Renewal Workshop team worked closely with us to develop a streamlined and scalable process that could grow in line with our ambitions, delivering like-new repairs at the speed of e-commerce. Their combination of purpose, professionalism, agility and expertise makes them the ideal partner for this kind of project.”
 
Bleckmann’s integrated data capabilities were also crucial to the success of the partnership. “Data collection and analysis can be vital in demonstrating the commercial viability of sustainability initiatives,” said Tamara Zwart, Director of Renewal at Bleckmann. “Using our advanced stock tracking systems, we determined that 70% of the renewed Otrium stock had been sold within seven weeks. We’re all delighted with the results!”
Furthermore, carbon-tracking software Vaayu calculated that on average, a refurbished return sold on Otrium avoids 2.760kg of carbon emissions and 69g of waste proofing that this programme can have a positive impact on both: the planet and the business.

Having established the business case, the team decided to expand the initiative beyond the pilot phase. “This project is a milestone in our sustainability journey,” concluded Marlot. “It’s a key part of our ongoing commitment to finding more ways to reduce our environmental impact while helping to ensure that more clothes get worn. By the end of 2023, we aim to repair at least 25,000 damaged garments. Together with Bleckmann and their renewal experts, we’re well on our way to proving that this circular business model can be a valuable part of our future growth.”

Since the rapid growth brought about by the pandemic, the technical textiles and nonwovens markets are stabilising towards a new normal – one in which technological innovation, sustainable development, and intelligent manufacturing are the most sought-after qualities. Held from 19 – 21 September 2023 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, the fair amplified this new industry direction, both through its fringe programme and across the booths of the 40,000 sqm show floor. With a nearly one-third increase from 2021, 467 exhibitors representing 13 countries and regions engaged a significantly international visitor flow, numbering 15,542 total visits from 52 countries and regions. Suppliers showcased up-to-date products for multiple application areas, with various equipment, technical textiles and nonwovens for agriculture, automotive, protective apparel, and medical and hygiene especially prevalent.

Speaking at the fair’s close, Ms Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, had an optimistic outlook for the future of the sector: “Sustainability and innovation often go hand-in-hand, and walking through the various halls, zones, and pavilions these past few days the evidence for this was widespread. With environmental protection more important than ever, and buyers across application areas increasingly sourcing eco-friendly solutions, our exhibitors were well-placed to meet that demand. This fair is consistently at the leading edge of technological progress, and with the global and domestic markets showing signs of improving further, we are already looking forward to what we can offer at next year’s edition.”  

With many overseas exhibitors making a comeback, this year’s fair was marked by the return of the Taiwan Pavilion and the 40-exhibitor strong European Zone. Beyond the international areas, domestic pavilions were organised by Beijing Guanghua, China Hang Tang Group, Funing, Jiujing, Shenda, Tiantai, Xianto, and Xiqiao, showcasing nonwovens for various sub-sectors, including filtration and medical. Valuable insights were exchanged at multiple fringe events, including the 11th China International Nonwovens Conference, the Advanced Technical Textiles Industry Chain Synergistic Innovation Development Forum, various events covering marine textiles and rope netting, and the “Kingsafe Dangs” National University Students' Nonwovens Development and Applications Showcase. Visitors, meanwhile, were pleased with the innovation on show across the entire platform.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

The European Union (EU) has upgraded the requirements for the Class 1 Medical Device designation and Hologenix®, creators of CELLIANT®, has met the stricter requirements for this important market. This means that compliant manufacturers can continue to use the CE mark on their EU products containing CELLIANT.

Brand partners simply need to comply with the requirements that Hologenix provides, and do not have to pursue regulations on their own. Regulatory status validates the science and technology behind CELLIANT, a natural blend of bioceramic minerals that absorb body heat and reflect it back as therapeutic infrared energy.

The list of products that are now registered in the EU as Class 1 Medical Devices has grown considerably since 2014 when Hologenix first sought registration and now includes bed blankets, bed sheets, duvets, duvet covers, mattresses, mattress covers, pillows, heat-reflective upper and lower torso garments, therapeutic diabetic socks, compression socks/stockings, support bandages, wraps and limb mobilization/support skin adhesive tape.  

The transition to the Medical Device Regulations in the EU for CELLIANT Class 1 medical devices includes more stringent requirements to demonstrate medical device safety for users, a refined quality management system and detailed technical documents.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, is partnering with the Waterloo Filtration Institute to deliver the FiltXPO™ technical program on October 10-11, 2023 in Chicago, Illinois. The Waterloo Filtration Institute was instrumental in recommending program topics and world-class presenters.

Engineers, scientists, and industry professionals will gain the latest insights into the filtration and separation topics affecting the industry today and into the future. The program features presentations include: filter media technologies, advancements and opportunities in filtration machinery and equipment, innovations in clean air for homes and urban areas, standards and testing, industry trends and new developments, and filtration challenges and opportunities.

The keynote for this year’s event is “IAQ Is the New Black” presented by Suzanne Shelton, President & CEO, Shelton Group. Shelton will share the latest data around consumer views on health, safety, people, and the planet. Participants will gain an understanding of the filtration opportunities and the challenges manufacturers face in communicating the value of their products.

A preview of the subject matter experts includes:

• AAF Flanders – “Air Filter Standards Activity and What It Means for Innovation”
• Ahlstrom – “Expanding Wetlaid Filtration Media Performance Through Innovation”
• Air Techniques International – “Application of Automated Filter Tester in Quality Control Testing: Importance of Consistent Aerosol Particle Size Distribution”
• American Truetzschler, Inc. – “How Really Good Filter Media Is Made”
• CEREX Advanced Fabrics – “The Antimicrobial Nylon Advantage”
• Elsner Engineering Works, Inc. – “When Does Automation Make Sense”
• Hollingsworth & Vose – “Accelerating Membrane Adoption with ROI”
• INDA – “Beyond Porter’s Five Forces – When Regulation Reshapes Markets”
• MANN+HUMMEL GmbH – “Filtration for Cleaner Urban Mobility – Introducing Horizon Europe Innovation Action Aersolfd”
• NatureWorks – “Optimizing Biopolymers to Improve Filter Performance – A Spectrum of Approaches and Opportunities”
• Palas GmbH – “Influence of Temperature and Humidity to Filter Efficiency and Dust Holding Capacity”
• Ptak Consulting – “Residential Filtration – Performance Against Infectious Aerosols”
• The University of Georgia – “Recent Advances in Melt Blown Nonwovens and Filter Media Research”

New this year to FiltXPO are Lightning Talks. Lightning Talks are an opportunity to connect with new trends, products, innovations, and ideas with speakers rotating every eight minutes. Presenting companies include Ahlstrom, Elsner Engineering Works, Inc., Gottlieb Binder GmbH, TSI, and the Waterloo Filtration Institute.

The FiltXPO exhibition takes place October 10-12 and will run concurrently with the technical program.

Ananas Anam, the provider of innovative low-impact textile solutions made from pineapple leaf waste, announced the appointment of Manel Echevarria as the new CEO. The Spanish executive who had previously worked as CEO for Grupo Excens Sports and Lacoste Iberia, as well as in senior executive roles for Swarovski and MontBlanc, will lead the global business from its European research and production site near Barcelona in Spain.

At the beginning of the year, the company reported the successful closing of a funding round led by HALTRA Group, a family-backed sustainable investment firm in Luxembourg and a group of strategic investors, including the French Compagnie Fruitière, one of the leading producers in Europe and major fruit producer in the Africa-Caribbean-Pacific region, as well the global automotive technology supplier Forvia, and Asahi Kasei Corp, a leading Japanese multinational group working in innovative materials and technologies.

“The appointment of Manel Echevarria as a seasoned CEO with an impressive track-record in the fashion and luxury industry marks another important milestone in setting Ananas Anam up for the next phase of growth” says Dr. Christian Kurtzke, Chairman of Ananas Anam. “Following our investment in the development of an impressive portfolio of next-generation innovative biodegradable, traceable and sustainable materials, and into the setup of its network of strategic partners on the supply and shareholder side, Manel will provide the leadership for driving growth and industrial scale of this pioneering sustainability brand amidst a continued challenging global market environment in fashion, interiors and automotive.”

With Ananas Anam’s core portfolio of innovative materials, the company has successfully collaborated with well-known brands including Nike, Hugo Boss, H&M, Paul Smith and Cat Footwear and sustainable-fashion pioneers like Ecoalf to drive innovation in footwear, as well as with fashion brands like Carolina Herrera in the area of bags and accessories, substituting animal leather in the product design with its vegan, cruelty-free, low-impact and sustainable pineapple leaf fibre based textiles. In July 2023, at the Premiere Vision exhibition in Paris, the company presented the next generation of Piñatex as well as its breakthrough innovation Piñayarn as a biodegradable, traceable and sustainable yarn, and introducing Anam PALF, as a commercially available premium textile grade pineapple leaf fibre, opening up a world of new applications and markets.

“Driving the sustainability transformation in fashion, as well as in interiors and automotive has become a key priority on the agenda of brands and OEMs around the world,” says Manel Echevarria, CEO Ananas Anam. “I am proud to have the opportunity to lead the company in this decisive time, and I am looking forward to collaborating with our exceptional Spanish founder, Dr Carmen Hijosa, and Josep Taylor in Spain, with Bruno de Penanster and his team in the UK, as well as with Chuck Lazaro and his team in the Philippines to turn this amazing sustainability ambition and purpose into a reality.”

The viscose specialty fibre manufacturer Kelheim Fibres has entered into a collaboration with MagnoLab, an international network of companies in the textile industry based in the Biella region, Italy.

This partnership highlights the importance of collaboration between different companies to drive innovation and sustainability in the textile industry. Kelheim Fibres sees itself not only as a fibre supplier but also as an innovation partner for the entire industry. Through its Open Innovation approach, Kelheim Fibres fosters the exchange of ideas and knowledge to jointly develop sustainable solutions for the future.

Kelheim Fibres operates several pilot and technical facilities itself. The close collaboration with MagnoLab, which boasts an impressive array of state-of-the-art textile machinery, allows for even more efficient research and development.

The cooperation allows for practical testing, accelerating the implementation of innovations. It also contributes to a closer networking of the European (and thus regional) value chain. Thanks to shorter transport routes within Europe, not only is the environmental impact reduced, but also the realization of innovations in Europe is facilitated.

Dr. Marina Crnoja-Cosic, Director New Business Development, Marketing & Communications at Kelheim Fibres, emphasizes the advantages of the collaboration: " Through close networking with the companies organized under MagnoLab, we can produce small quantities of samples and prototypes using various technologies. This enables us to develop solutions based on our specialty fibres that can be directly transferred to our partners' production facilities within the textile value chain."