Aus der Branche

Members of TMAS – the Swedish textile machinery association – will display technologies in alignment with the theme of digitalisation at the forthcoming Techtextil and Texprocess 2024 exhibitions, taking place in Frankfurt from April 23-26th.

Automatic handling
The fully automated and digitised handling solutions for finished garments, home textiles and furniture of Eton Systems, for example, will be demonstrated at Texprocess.

Designed to increase value-added time in production by eliminating manual transportation and minimising handling, the individually addressable product carriers are fully managed and controlled by the latest ETONingenious™ software. This web based real-time data collection and information system continuously accumulates, processes and makes all production information instantly available to supervisors, quality control personnel and management.

Bespoke seams
Svegea will demonstrate its EC 300-XS colarette technology, which is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements.

The EC 300-XS collarette cutter on show in Frankfurt is equipped with the latest E-Drive II system providing the operator with a very user-friendly touchscreen, providing full control of the cutting process. An accompanying FA 350 fully automatic roll slitting machine will also be demonstrated.

Digital finishing
At Techtextil meanwhile, Baldwin Technology Co. will provide full details of how its highly digitised TexCoat G4 non-contact spray technology for textile finishing and remoistening not only reduces water, chemicals and energy consumption, but also provides the flexibility to adapt to customer requirements in terms of single and double-sided finishing applications.

TexCoat G4 can reduce water consumption and chemical usage by as much as 50% compared to traditional padding application processes.

Yarn tension
Celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, Eltex will display the latest Eltex EyETM system for the continuous monitoring of yarn tension on warp beams.

The Eltex EyETM eliminates problems when warping, and also in subsequent weaving or tufting processes, monitoring the yarn tension on all positions in real-time and enabling a minimum and maximum allowable tension value it be set. If any yarn’s tension falls outside these values the operator can be warned or the machine stopped.

The Eltex ACT and ACT-R units meanwhile go beyond yarn tension monitoring to actually control yarn tension. This extends the application range greatly. The plug and play system automatically compensates for any differences in yarn tension that arise, for example from irregularities in yarn packages.

Accumulated know-how
Vandewiele Sweden AB benefits from all of the synergies and accumulated know-how of Vandewiele Group, supplying weft yarn feeding and tension control units for weaving looms to the majority of weaving machine manufacturers. It also retrofits its latest technologies to working mills to enable instant benefits in terms of productivity and control.

The company will present its latest X4 yarn feeders with integrated accessory displays (TED) as a new standard, as well as launching its own e-commerce platform – iroonline.com.

The TED function enables weft tension settings to be transferred from one machine to another, enabling a fast start-up the next time the same article is woven. The position of the S-Flex Tensioner is constantly monitored by an internal sensor – even if adjustment is made during power off.

X4 feeders are also available with integrated active tension control (ATC-W) as an option. With the ATC-W active tension control, the required tension is easily set and monitored on the integrated display. Once set, the system constantly regulates itself, ensuring consistent yarn tension during the weaving process which is constantly and accurately measured by the ATC sensor unit, sending a signal to the ATC operator unit resulting in consistently stable yarn tension at the required level.

In the fourth quarter of 2023 Italian textile machinery orders index, drawn up by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, appears to be stationary compared to data recorded for the same period in 2022. In terms of absolute value, the index stood at 82.4 points (basis: 2015=100).

This is the result of an upswing in orders from foreign markets, counterbalanced by declining orders on the domestic front. While orders in Italy decreased at 18% rate, a 4% increase was observed abroad. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets amounted to 77.9 points, whereas it came in at 126.2 points domestically. Overall for the fourth quarter, the average order backlog yielded 3.7 months of assured production.

For the whole 2023 year, the index declined 25% overall compared to the 2022 average (absolute index of 82.4). On the home front however, the index dropped 24% (absolute index of 124.5), while slipping 25% abroad (absolute index of 78.4).

ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè commented the data: “The orders index for October – December 2023, as elaborated by our Economics Department, confirms an intake of orders that is still weak, with a negative trend in demand for machinery that is ongoing for the domestic market.” Nonetheless, the orders index abroad shows a slight increase. “We estimate that the global geopolitical context is still a source of concern,” continued Salvadè, specifying that, “For the first nine months of 2023, Italian exports on major global markets (i.e. China, Turkey, India and the United States of America), confirm a widespread decline. However, some positive signs emerged in the fourth quarter of last year, as reflected by the latest orders index. For 2024 we expect a consolidation of this trend reversal.”

Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is driving innovation throughout the industry. However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres.

Spinning recycled cotton
The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.
In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool
For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn. These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines. For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens
Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures. Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy
Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.
Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability. The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

Im Rahmen der Aachen-Dresden-Denkendorf International Textile Conference in Dresden hat der Vorsitzende der Walter Reiners-Stiftung des VDMA, Peter D. Dornier, vier erfolgreiche Jungingenieurinnen und -ingenieure ausgezeichnet. Vergeben wurden zwei Förderpreise sowie zwei Nachhaltigkeitspreise jeweils in den Kategorien Bachelor und Diplom/Master. Für die Nachhaltigkeitspreise kommen akademische Arbeiten in Betracht, in denen Lösungen für ressourcenschonende Produkte und Technologien entwickelt werden.

Ein mit 3.000 Euro dotierter Nachhaltigkeitspreis in der Kategorie Bachelor wurde Franziska Jauch verliehen, Hochschule Niederrhein, für ihre Bachelorarbeit über Pigment-Digitaldruck in der Denimproduktion.

Der Förderpreis in der Kategorie Bachelor, ebenfalls mit 3.000 Euro dotiert ging an Annika Datko, RWTH Aachen, für ihre Arbeit zur Bestimmung des Polyesteranteils in Alttextilien.

Mit einem Nachhaltigkeitspreis in der Kategorie Diplom/Master, dotiert mit 3.500 Euro wurde Dave Kersevan, TU Dresden, ausgezeichnet. Thema seiner Diplomarbeit war die Entwicklung einer Laboranlage zur automatischen Herstellung von vernadelten Carbon-Preformen.

Der diesjährige Förderpreis in der Kategorie Diplom/Master, ausgestattet mit einem Preisgeld von 3.500 Euro ging an Flávio Diniz von der RWTH Aachen. Inhalt seiner Masterarbeit war die Machbarkeit der Herstellung ultradünner Carbonfasern.

Die Preise der Walter Reiners-Stiftung für 2024 sind bereist ausgelobt. Die Preisverleihung findet im April am VDMA-Gruppenstand auf der Messe Techtextil in Frankfurt statt.

ITM Exhibitions will open its doors to host "ITM 2024 International Textile Machinery Exhibition" from June 4-8, 2024. Preparations are in full swing for the organization, where textile technology leaders will bring the latest products together with their visitors for the first time.

The ITM team focused on advertising and promotional activities in order to host thousands of visitors and sector investors from all over the world at the ITM 2024 Exhibition, which halls were almost full due to intense participation demands. In this context; 'ITM 2024 Video', which tells the story of the increasing success of ITM exhibitions over the years and which is eagerly awaited by the whole sector, has recently been published. The video, which was published in Turkish and English on social media accounts such as YouTube, LinkedIn, Instagram, Twitter and Facebook, was viewed by more than 30 thousand people in total and received great appreciation from the viewers.

“Discover the Future!” in the video prepared with the main theme “Discover innovations, technologies, the future...” and including clues about the ITM 2024 Exhibition, was revealed as follows:
The textile sector is among the souls of the economy with its production capacity, export volume, and contribution to employment. Many R&D centers around the world and in Turkey are breaking new ground by taking their work and innovations one step further every day. Textile technology leaders are developing technologies that consume less water and energy, are easy to use, are software and automation supported, keep up with trends and respect the environment while doing so. Industry stakeholders, especially textile manufacturers, are now curious about the answer to this question: 'What will be the future of the textile industry, which is digitalizing, complying with sustainability principles, and signing groundbreaking innovations? This question will be answered at ITM 2024, which will host the latest innovations, technologies, artificial intelligence-supported machines, software and design excellence devices in textile machinery.

Das Gründungsteam FoxCore und das ITM an der TU Dresden wollen mit dem Beginn des Exist-Forschungstransferprojekts FoxCore eine neue Ära für Befestigungslösungen im Leichtbau einleiten. Das Projekt ist am 1. Juni 2023 gestartet und läuft bis zum 30. November 2024. Unterstützt wird es vom Bundesministerium für Wirtschaft und Klimaschutz (BMWK) und den Europäischen Sozialfonds (ESF).

Das innovative Unternehmen soll neue und kundengerechte Befestigungslösungen für Leichtbauanwendungen entwickeln und anbieten. Sicherheit und Leistungsfähigkeit von Leichtbaulösungen in verschiedenen Branchen sollen erhöht werden. Zielsetzung von FoxCore ist, eine führende Rolle in der Befestigungstechnologie einzunehmen.

Daniel Weise, Philipp Schegner, Michael Vorhof und Cornelia Sennewald bilden das FoxCore-Team; sie werden eng mit dem Institut für Textilmaschinen und Textile Hochleistungswerkstofftechnik (ITM) der TU Dresden zusammenarbeiten. Gemeinsam sollen optimale Fertigungstechnologien entwickelt und ein weit verzweigtes Netzwerk von Kunden und Lieferanten aufgebaut werden.

West Yorkshire is to have a first-of-its-kind apprenticeship training course for textile engineering technicians, reflecting a resurgence in the industry locally, and more generally in the UK.

Calderdale College has partnered with the Textile Centre of Excellence (TCoE) and the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) to develop the bespoke Level 3 apprenticeship course which will start in September 2023.

Engineering Technician apprentices at Calderdale College will receive training from the TCoE, helping them to develop the engineering maintenance skills required to close the skills gap in West Yorkshire’s textile industry.

While the region has been a flourishing hub for textile excellence since the 19th century and is being revitalised through digitalization and the localisation of supply chains, its success is currently being hindered by an ageing workforce and high staff turnover.

Through adapting the engineering training at Calderdale College to address the current requirements of the textile industry, the unique new course will ensure the passing on of vital know-how and good practice aligned with the new skills demanded by Industry 4.0 and automation.

Collaborative Apprenticeships
Calderdale College has developed the programme over a two-year period through close collaboration with the TCoE and the BTMA, as well as through consultation with British heritage weaver AW Hainsworth and a number of other local textile companies.

The course launch follows on closely from the success of the Collaborative Apprenticeships project launched in 2022 at Calderdale College. To date, this has seen the college engage with over 100 local employers on the benefits of increasing the quantity and improving the quality of the apprenticeships that they offer, as well as encouraging others to introduce apprenticeships for the first time.

“Over the years, we’ve seen how beneficial apprenticeships can be for several sectors, particularly in terms of helping businesses to retain staff and ensuring that they have a steady flow of skilled workers coming in,” said Claire Williams, head of employer engagement at Calderdale College. “Having identified that employers in the textile manufacturing industry were struggling to find apprenticeship training that was designed around their needs, we knew that alongside employers and our partners, we needed to satisfy this critical gap in the market. We hope that this programme will act as a leading example for the rest of the industry to follow.”

The EU's planned ban on the entire group of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) would endanger many industrial processes, states VDMA Textile Machinery. Textile manufacturing would be affected twice – by missing important chemicals for technical textile production and by the lack of indispensable textile machine components. The latter would affect the whole supply chain from textile machinery manufacturers and its suppliers to the textile industry in the EU.

Solid PFAS parts are widely used in textile machinery production, especially where extreme conditions prevail. Verena Thies, Managing Shareholder Thies GmbH & Co. KG, explains: “Our textile dyeing machines are world leaders and set standards in efficiency and sustainability. They work under pressure at temperatures of up to 140° C using highly acidic, highly basic and/or oxidative or even reductive chemicals. This is precisely why PFAS is needed, for example, in seals and rings, flaps as well as valves for a long-lasting and high-quality machine concept – because there are no alternatives with qualitatively equivalent properties. In addition, PTFE semi-finished products enable a sliding and gentle contact with the textile fabric in ecologically important techniques in the transformation of textile wet finishing."

PTFE and also FKM are fluoropolymers (fluoroplastics and fluoroelastomers), a group within the broad PFAS range of about 10,000 substances which would be banned for production, use and sale in the EU. They are high-tech materials, and as so-called "polymers of low concern" are not a danger to the environment, according to the OECD. Furthermore, these components are installed inside a machine and exchanged or disposed of properly. PFAS such as PTFE and FKM must be exempted from the ban, demands the VDMA in its position paper.

"In this way, the association also supports the approach taken in Great Britain. With the 10,000 substances, everything is lumped together, although the various PFAS groups are very different," warns Dr Sarah Brückner, Head of VDMA Environmental Affairs and Sustainability. "We should take our cue from the UK and look at the substance groups in a differentiated way."
Apart from several types of dyeing machines, PFAS components are indispensable in textile drying machines (e.g., conveyor dryers, tumblers and stenters) and damping machines. They are also used in fully automatic chemical dispensing systems and pressure vessels for thermochemical treatment of textile recycling material, heat recovery systems and wastewater treatment technology. This means that a lot of machines needed for a sustainable textile production would be affected by the PFAS ban.

VDMA Textile Machinery will take part in the ongoing EU public consultation. The association will describe indispensable key functionalities and conditions of use in the textile machinery sector as well as the consequences for the companies and the customers in the EU if the ban is imposed. The consultation ends on September 25, 2023, and VDMA urged its members affected by the planned restriction to participate in the consultation at an early stage. This is the only way to ensure that the broad scope of the mechanical and plant engineering sector is represented.

100 days before ITMA 2023 in Milan, VDMA Textile Machinery launched its “Way2ITMA” webinar series. “Transforming the World of Textiles: efficient – digital – circular”. Under this heading, VDMA technology providers will present their solutions along the value chain.

Speakers of the virtual event were Dr. Janpeter Horn, Chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and Managing Director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik, Dirk Vantyghem, Director General, EURATEX, Francis Elias Junker, Area Sales Manager, Andritz Laroche and Tanja Karila, Chief Marketing Officer, Infinited Fiber Company.

With regard to the EU strategy for sustainable and circular textiles, Dr. Horn said: “This topic concerns all of us, consumers and producers. We as machinery builders position ourselves as enablers. We want to be part of the solution of this ambitious project”.

Dirk Vantyghem introduced the core issues of the EU textile strategy launched in 2022, which is the most ambitious plan ever, to push the textile sector towards sustainability and transparency, and promote a new circular business model. If wrongly designed, that new framework may collapse the European textile value chain. But if done rightly, the changes ahead could bring a paradigm shift in the sector, where competitiveness is no longer based on price only, but also on sustainability and innovation, explained Vantyghem.

Francis Elias Junker showed high level of expertise for mechanical textile recycling for both spinning and nonwovens industries that Andritz has. The company has a diversity of solutions to offer and several cooperation partners, covering the value chain from recovery of fiber to the chemical modification and preparation for the production of yarn.

Tanja Karila gave an overview of how Infinited Fiber is turning textile waste into new fibers. Patented technology turns post-consumer textile waste into brand new premium quality fibers for the textile industry. The textile-to-textile recycling technology captures the value in waste that would otherwise be landfilled or burned.

Dr. Harald Weber wird zum 1. Januar 2023 neuer Geschäftsführer des VDMA Fachverbands Textilmaschinen. Der 44-jährige Wirtschaftsingenieur folgt auf Thomas Waldmann, der die Position seit 1991 innehatte und Ende des Jahres in den Ruhestand geht.

Nach seiner Promotion an der TU Darmstadt und einer Dozenten-Tätigkeit an der Technischen Hochschule Mittelhessen kam Dr. Weber 2011 zum VDMA. Im Fachverband Kunststoff- und Gummimaschinen war er seitdem als Referent für die Themen Technik und Innovation verantwortlich.

Dr. Janpeter Horn, Vorsitzender des VDMA Fachverbands Textilmaschinen und Geschäftsführer der August Herzog Maschinenfabrik erklärte zum Personalwechsel: „Dr. Weber verfügt aus seiner bisherigen Tätigkeit in der Kunststoffbranche über profunde Kenntnisse und Erfahrungen bei Themen, die auch im Textilmaschinenbau weiter an Bedeutung gewinnen. Als Beispiele seien Recycling und Kreislaufwirtschaft genannt sowie Digitalisierung und hier speziell der Schnittstellen-Standard OPC UA.“

Dr. Horn ergänzte: „Unser herzliches Willkommen an Dr. Weber verbinden wir mit einem großen Dankeschön an Thomas Waldmann. 30 Jahre Geschäftsführer beim Fachverband Textilmaschinen stehen auch für sich ständig ändernde Rahmenbedingungen. Herr Waldmann war stets am Puls der Branche und hat mit seinem Team die besonderen Interessen der Mitgliedsunternehmen vertreten: Von der Technikpolitik über Herausforderungen des Marktzugangs bis zur Leitmesse ITMA und dem europäischen Verband CEMATEX. Die ITMA 2007 in München war dabei sicherlich ein Highlight. Der Vorstand des Fachverbands wünscht Herrn Waldmann für den nun beginnenden neuen Lebensabschnitt alles Gute.“