Textile Technology section
Schoeller: cooperation with Südwolle Group
The coldblack technology by textile producer Schoeller Textil AG, Sevelen/Switzerland, has been specifically optimized for use on knitted and woven fabrics so brands can now expand their product application uses. Under the sun, textiles with coldblack heat up less and stay cool to the touch. The manufacturer of worsted products Südwolle Group, Nuremberg/Germany, has also recognized the ideal combination of merino and coldblack.
coldblack technology from Schoeller supports the natural properties of wool which already has lower heat build-up, and reliably reduces this even more when exposed to the sun. Together with the help of Südwolle Group, the finish has been optimized specifically for the use in merino apparel. The yarn manufacturer chooses coldblack for a variety of uses, especially for knitting and weaving yarns for sports and outdoor apparel and develops such products individually according to its customers’ requirements.
Mahlo: automatic weft straightener for Ulster Carpets
The manufacturer of measuring, control and automation systems Mahlo GmbH & Co. KG, Saal a.d. Donau/Germany, installed a special weft straightener at Ulster Carpets, Craigavon/Northern Ireland (UK).
The Orthopac CRVMC is for high mechanical load comes in wide working widths and is therefore especially suitable for carpets and technical textiles. The innovative positioning drive makes sure that the contact between rollers and web is ensured at any time, irrespective of the web construction. During the straightening process the force applied to the fabric will be always distributed over the entire width. All the collected relevant data can be used for internal and external statistics, resulting in a higher transparency and a better total quality control.
Ulster Carpets provides carpets for hotels, cruise ships and domestic living rooms.
ACIMIT: new skill sets required for Industry 4.0
Partnerships between technology suppliers and textile manufacturers have become an essential component in providing solutions to the needs of fast-fashion and increasingly more significant e-commerce retail channels. Alessandro Zucchi, president of the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT), Milan/Italy, reiterated the inevitability of the digitalization process regarding the entire textile industry while presenting the latest figures for the sector for 2017.
The digitalization of production processes requires a whole new set of skills, and consequently new training solutions. The declaration of intent launched by the trade association is essentially to strengthen the current link with educational institutions.
In 2017, production of Italian textile machinery rose by 8%, for a value of €2.4 billion, while exports grew by 7% (€2 billion). Production benefitted from a growing demand abroad, as well as the crucial recovery of Italy’s domestic market, mainly due to the boost generated by the fiscal incentives for the digitalization process of the companies.
Garmon: young designer awarded with week of training
The supplier of chemical solutions for the apparel industry, Garmon Chemicals, Serravalle/San Marino, jointly hosted the “Cotton Creation Era - Denim Creative Design Award Ceremony” at Naked Hub in Shanghai/China. Together with Cotton Council International (CCI), Washington, DC/USA, the manufacturer of prepared-for-dye garments Cottonsmith LLC, Vernon, CA/USA, and the College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai, Garmon presented innovations to define the value of cotton in denim.
For this event, Cotton USA, a trademark of CCI created opportunities for the integration of upstream and downstream supply chains, demonstrated design and fashion trends of cotton innovation and cotton apparel, creating high-quality cotton garments.
A competition for young designers saw contestants from the Donghua University contribute design works that express the multi-dimensional interpretation of cotton and its unique style. Garmon Chemicals awarded Jingtian Wang as the best student with the most promising design proposal in the fashion contest, with a week of training in The Italian Job Lab in Italy.
Empa: new sensor can “feel” clothes
For the development of textiles the properties of textile surfaces should be predicted exactly. Researchers of Empa, Dübendorf/Switzerland, in partnership with colleagues from the Université de Haute-Alsace in Mulhouse/France, have developed an analytic instrument made of optical sensor that objectively evaluates the tactile properties of textiles.
To enable the sensor to detect the tactile properties of a surface, the researchers took the human fingertip as a model: concentric grooves in the micrometer range cover the optical polymer fibers. If the fibers are subjected to mechanical stress when touching a textile surface, the intensity of their light transmission changes. The sensor would render surveys with test persons which are notoriously subjective.
Pegas: part of global nonwovens holding
The investment company R2G, Prague/Czech Republic which owns majority interest in the nonwovens producer Pegas Nonwovens a.s., Prague, and First Quality Enterprises, Inc., Great Neck, NY/USA, has announced that the 2 companies have entered into a definitive agreement under which R2G will acquire 100% of First Quality’s nonwovens operations in the USA and China. The transaction is expected to be completed early in Q3/2018.
Pegas, with operations in Europe and Africa, will continue to supply nonwovens to First Quality’s US absorbent hygiene division which manufactures premium infant care, adult incontinence, and feminine hygiene products for the retail and health care markets. This strategic acquisition will expand R2G’s presence into North America and Asia.
Dornbirn GFC with extensive supporting program
Learning, making progress, taking a look into the future of the man-made fibers industry is the core target of the 57th Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress (Dornbirn-GFC) from September 12-14, 2018, in Dornbirn/Austria. More than 700 participants from over 30 nations (80% from Europe, 15% from Asia, 5% from the Americas) will inform themselves about the latest innovations of the fiber industry and its downstream stages.
The more than 100 expert lectures will focus on the main topics of fiber innovations, transportation und mobility, recycling – circular economy, energy generation and energy storage, surface modification and additive technologies.
Sebastian Kurz, the Austrian Federal Chancellor, will open this year’s congress and give his presentation via a video transmission.
There will also be a CEO panel discussion on the subject of sustainability under the heading “3 Ps – Planet, People, Profit”. After an interesting lecture block, the Expert Panel on the subject of “Circular Economy” will take place, moderated by Anton Schumann (Gherzi).
The topic “Digital Age in Research and Development” will be deepened during the Young Scientist Forum in a workshop on September 11, 2018 guided by Syngroup Consulting.
Trützschler: efficient manufacture of eco-friendly nonwovens
The producer of cosmetic wipes Albaad Deutschland GmbH, Ochtrup/Germany, has installed a new nonwovens production line from the technology company Voith GmbH, Heidenheim/Germany, and the textile machinery manufacturer Trützschler Nonwovens & Man Made Fibers GmbH, Egelsbach/Germany.
With their innovative WLS (wet-laid/spunlace) technology, Voith and Trützschler ensure flexible and efficient production of wet-laid and hydro-entangled nonwovens from 100% cellulose at Albaad’s new WLM1 production line in Dimona/Israel. Already in the first phase after start-up, the nonwovens manufactured at a speed of over 200 m/min exhibited a very good product quality.
Trützschler was largely responsible for the machines for web bonding and drying. Using AquaJet technology, directed high-pressure water jets interweave the individual fibers together solely through the momentum of the water. The material thus obtains a high tensile strength and the desired textile feel without the use of any binding agents or bi-component fibers.
ITMF: world yarn and fabric production down in Q4/17
Global yarn production decreased by 23% between Q3/17 and Q4/17, according to figures from the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), Zurich/Switzerland. Output reductions in Brazil (-23%), Asia (-14%), and the USA (-4%) balanced out the increase in Africa (+12%) and Europe (+15%). All surveyed countries, apart from Brazil and Germany, expect a decrease in yarn output in Q1/2018.
Global fabric production decreased from Q3/17 to Q4/17 by -2%. A respective -12% and -2% contraction in Brazil and Asia drove the world average in the negative range. Fabric output, however, increased by 6% and 10% in Africa and Europe respectively.
Europe and Brazil are expected to increase fabric production in Q1/18. In Q4/17, the global fabric stock level slightly grew (+3%) with this increase being driven by Brazil (+15%).
In 2017, stocks were stable in Asia and the USA. They increased steadily in Europe and Brazil. On average, fabric orders reduced by -23% between Q3/17 and Q4/17 in the countries under review.
For further information: www.itmf.org
Covestro: advanced polyurethane materials for World Cup football
All eyes will be again on the ball for the 2018 FIFA World Cup Russia from June 14-July 15, 2018. “Telstar 18” continues the series of Official World Cup Balls adidas has produced since 1970, when the original “Telstar” with its iconic 32 black and white panels changed football design forever.
The specialty chemicals producer Covestro AG, Leverkusen/Germany, has developed and supplied advanced materials for adidas footballs for more than 30 years. Telstar 18 employs the latest developments in Impranil polyurethane coated textiles, which lends it optimal handling, very good flight characteristics and superior water resistance.
The innermost layer of the ball skin is an adhesion coating that connects the textile substrate to the layers above. On top of this is a polyurethane foam layer, roughly 1 mm thick, made up of millions of gas-filled microspheres. This foam is highly elastic so that the ball, after being deformed from being kicked, immediately returns to its spherical shape to ensure an optimal flight path. The outer skin comprises 2 compact layers of polyurethane with different thicknesses. These layers are responsible for the good resistance to external influences and abrasion, and for the ball’s high elasticity.