Textile Technology section
Archroma: new eco-avanced “indigo clone” solution
The producer of dyes and specialty chemicals Archroma Management LLC, Reinach/Switzerland, recently launched its new Diresul Smartdenim Blue, a liquid sulfur blue dye designed to mimic indigo, at the ITMA 2019 in Barcelona/Spain. The new product will be the core of the company’s Indigo Reflection, a coloration system that behaves like indigo, but with a comparatively more sustainable and efficient application process.
The new indigo-mimicking Diresul Smartdenim Blue is aniline-free and can be used in Archroma’s water-saving Advanced Denim technology. It is a liquid sulfur dye that behaves like liquid indigo in neutral-green blue tone and in the most common wash-down processes. It has better fastness to minimize back staining, and allows overall wash-downs much closer to actual indigo to be created, whilst avoiding greyish cast especially in bleaching with hypochlorite.
Diresul Smartdenim Blue can be applied in all the standard dyeing methods recommended for sulfur dyes, including pad-ox, pad-steam, exhaust, denim in all its variations (color denim, bottoming and topping of indigo), as well as in the Advanced Denim procedures (Denim-Ox, Pad-Sizing-Ox).
CHT Group breaks the €500 million sales mark in 2018
With a turnover of €513 million, the producer of specialty chemicals CHT Group, Tübingen/Germany, achieved a 12% increase in sales in 2018.
The clear commitment to sustainability not only pays off in the form of awards and prizes, but also scores points in daily business life. With its sustainable core range and efficient and resource-saving process control, the group is a pioneer in the industry, particularly in the traditional textile chemicals sector.
Presently, the development focus is clearly on the circular economy. Together with industrial partners, the group has developed a biodegradable textile printing system which will soon be sold at the Lidl discount store. In the field of PET plastic recycling, concepts and products were developed that support the process from PET bottle to baby diaper.
In addition, the business development with textile dyes in 2018 made an unexpectedly strong contribution to sales, as the CHT Group was able to supply dye classes that were affected by a shortage of raw materials due a very good sourcing strategies.
The investment in silicone specialties in 2017, through the acquisition of the ICM Silicones Group, also paid off in 2018 in an extremely difficult market environment, even though the shortage of silicone raw materials on the world market led to extreme price increases while the demand remained high.
In terms of the result, the CHT Group was unable to meet expectations in 2018, in particular due to the raw material cost problems. For some raw material groups, massive cost increases of over 80% were recorded by mid-2018.
For 2019, because of political and economic risks, a rather moderate growth in sales is expected. Due to increasing trade conflicts, especially between the USA and China, the market development has not become easier.
The group is focusing on the strategic realignment of the Southeast Asia region which is now benefiting from the trade conflict.
In financial terms, the CHT Group has set itself the goal of continuing to grow profitably in 2019, and thus significantly increasing its result compared with the previous year.
Goller: new Knit Merc for better dyeing results
At the ITMA 2019 from June 20-26, 2019, in Barcelona/Spain Goller Textilmaschinen GmbH, Schwäbisch Hall/Germany, a part of Fong’s Europe, Schwäbisch Hall/Germany, introduced the new Knit Merc for achieving high quality mercerization of knitted fabrics at the lowe tension and with under 3% variation in dimensional stability with high grade fabrics, for very good dyeing results every time.
Mercerization is an essential textile finishing step for all cotton and cellulosic fiber-based fabrics in order to improve dye uptake and tear strength while reducing fabric shrinkage and imparting a silk-like luster to the materials. The Knit Merc is the result of intensive R&D developments at Goller and follows the introduction to the market of the company’s Sintensa Cyclone drum washing compartments for achieving very high washing efficiency at low tension.
Monforts: new system for multi-color yarn dyeing
At the ITMA 2019 from June 20-26, 2019, in Barcelona/Spain, the manufacturer of textile machinery A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, Mönchengladbach/Germany, introduced a new system for yarn dyeing based on the Econtrol dyeing system for fabrics. This CYD denim processing technology integrates new functions and processes into the weaving preparatory processes – spinning, direct beaming, warping and assembly beaming, followed by sizing and dyeing – in order to increase quality, ﬂexibility, economic viability and productivity.
Econtrol is a pad-dry process employed in Monforts continuous dyeing in which the reactive dyestuff is fixed to the cellulose fibers during drying and the CYD multi-color yarn dyeing system introduces a number of new concepts based on it, including the unique Eco Bleach process. This is the first bleaching system for yarn treatment available on the market and will be of particular interest to denim manufacturers.
The Eco Bleach system is combined with the washing units and the fabric is then dyed immediately, resulting in considerable savings in waste water and chemicals. The most effective dyeing process for fabrics is now being applied for yarn dyeing and it is possible to process short batches of between 5-10,000 m of yarn in order to produce 2-300 m of fabrics in a single continuous process.
Xetma Vollenweider: machine systems for the finishing of textile surfaces
The manufacturer of surface finishing machinery, Xetma Vollenweider GmbH, Aue/Germany, exhibited their machine systems for the finishing of all types of textile surfaces at the ITMA 2019 from June 20-26, 2019, in Barcelona/Spain.
With the X-Treme XEB, Xetma Vollenweider offers a Soft Touch finishing machine with unique versatility. Besides the classic brush-sueding and emerizing technologies, the X-Treme XEB also enables deployment for combined brushing and emerizing as well as combined raising and emerizing. Not only the rapid changeover between the individual technologies, but also the high production speeds, make the X-Treme XEB a soft touch system with a high level of efficiency.
The new X-Cept XB, a new brush-sueding machine of Xetma Vollenweider with alternatively 3 or 4 sueding brushes in vertical design, is also ranged in the field of Soft Touch finishing. By minimum lengths of fabric runs and independent setting parameters of the individual brush rollers regarding sense of rotation, speed and contact angle the X-Cept XB can be optimum configured for each fabric to be processed.
The new warp thread cutting machine X-Cite XF by Xetma Vollenweider reliably cuts all types of floating warp threads on woven fabrics and warp knit articles. By means of the innovative cutting system, the versatile setting options and the perfected fabric tension control system, the X-Cite XF is capable of reliably clipping Jacquard woven fabrics and even warp floats on the utmost fine, bi-elastic raschel lace. As opposed to conventional systems, the X-Cite XF can also open diagonally running clip threads.
Trützschler: intelligent machine technologies and digital solutions
The producer of textile machinery Trützschler GmbH, Mönchengladbach /Germany, presented at the ITMA 2019 from June 20-26, 2019, in Barcelona/Spain, new solutions for spinning preparation, nonwovens & man-made fibers.
The new intelligent card TC 19i automatically and continuously optimizes the carding gap whose setting has a critical influence on quality and performance. With a precision not achievable by humans, the intelligent card permanently realizes even the narrowest carding gap setting of 3/1000 inch. In addition, new cloud-based digital monitoring and management systems provide yarn manufacturers with transparency over all processes in the spinning mill. The My Wires app, for example, provides information on the status of clothings and service intervals and helps with the planning of reorders. Competent service for re-clothing can be provided immediately by Trützschler Card Clothing (TCC). These digital platforms are not exclusive to Trützschler technology.
An innovation in the blowroom offers more economy and quality as well: The Portal Bale Opener BO-P, with widths of 2,900 mm or 3,500 mm, allows significantly more bales to be placed side by side and processes them in parallel using 2 opening rolls. Thus, it results in significantly better blending and higher productions of up to 3,000 kg/h. As a complete supplier for spinning preparation, Trützschler is also breaking new ground in draw frames, the quality filters in the spinning mill. The autoleveller draw frame TD 10 automatically adjusts the break draft for optimum sliver quality and realizes cost savings due to its compact design and energy-efficient suction system. Like the TC 19i and the BO-P, the TD 10 provides the operator-friendly T-LED remote display which visualizes important machine and production information in a simple way.
Huntsman: new digital printing solutions
High-performance digital ink ranges for printing on cellulosics and polyester/cotton blends were presented by the manufacturer of textile chemicals and dyes, Huntsman Textile Effects, Singapore, at the ITMA 2019 from June 20-26, 2019, in Barcelona/Spain.
As the industry’s focus on sustainability and performance increases coupled with the rising market demand for polyester/cotton blends, 2 new product ranges offer enhancing sustainability and environmental standards.
Novacron Advance ink is the next generation of reactive inks for cellulosics with very good shade depth and color gamut, developed for industrial digital printing machines.
Eriofast Vista ink enables printers to achieve brilliant lasting designs on polyester/cotton blends and alternative solutions in digital printing in terms of brilliancy, color depth, fabric handle and wash fastness. Using inks from this range enables printers to adopt a simple urea-free process with significantly reduced energy consumption, washing, machine maintenance and carbon dioxide emissions.
Monforts: new exhaust air treatment system
The manufacturer of textile machinery A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, Mönchengladbach/Germany, presented an energy-optimized new version of its Montex at the ITMA 2019 from June 20-26, 2019, in Barcelona/Spain. With the introduction of the new MonforClean exhaust air treatment system and other process innovations, Monforts has been able to further reduce the energy consumption of Montex stenters by a further 13%.
Exhaust air treatment on stenter frames has posed particular challenges over the years, since the air can contain significant amounts of oil, fiber and even wax particles that may see emissions limits being reached in the processing of certain fabrics, depending on the legal specifications. In addressing this issue, Monforts is now incorporating the MonforClean module into the stenter frame, so there is no additional space requirement. At the same time, the costs for laborious secondary installations and the piping of the exhaust air treatment components, as well as supporting structures are eliminated due to the machine configuration. The waste heat from the drying process is used to pre-heat the drying air, resulting in a radical reduction in the conventional heat supply required compared to gas and thermal oil heating. The further integration of an automatic exhaust air filter washing system automatically cleans the module elements, ensuring the consistent efficiency of both the filter and heat recovery modules. The modular MonforClean system is also available in different expansion stages and automates the heat recovery and exhaust air treatment, while eliminating odors and ensuring the exhaust air is highly purified before escaping into the atmosphere.
Karl Mayer: new eco-friendly indigo dyeing technology
At the ITMA in Barcelona/Spain from June 20-26, 2019, the textile machinery manufacturer Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH, Obertshausen/Germany, launched an eco-friendly indigo dyeing technology. Greendye, an innovative technology for producing jeans fabrics with minimal ecological footprint, opens up another market sector, Sustainable Denim.
The nitrogen technology ensures less environmental impact and more efficiency during indigo dyeing. With its high concentration in the dye bath and under nitrogen atmosphere, the dye diffuses and migrates more intensely into the fiber than in the case of conventional comparable procedures. The yarn can absorb 3 times more dye in a dye vat. In this way, it is possible to reduce the number and length of vats, with positive effects for the environment. The chemical consumption can be reduced considerably, a reduction of 50% is possible when using hydrosulfite and caustic soda, and there is also less yarn waste. Moreover, due to the good fixation of the dyestuff on the fiber, considerably less water is required during the washing process.
ITA: ITMA Research & Innovation Excellence Award 2019 for ITA graduate
Mathias Zidda, MSc of the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA), Aachen/Germany, has won the ITMA Research & Innovation Excellence Award, presented on June 20, 2019, for his 3D braiding machine which was rebuilt according to the 4.0 industry standard. Fritz P. Mayer, President of the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (Cematex), Zurich/Switzerland, and the German Engineering Federation (VDMA), Frankfurt/Germany, handed over the prize money of €10,000 with certificate to the winner at the world’s leading textile and garment technology exhibition ITMA 2019 in Barcelona/Spain.
The 3D braiding machine consists of an existing conventional mechanical system. It has now been digitalized and rebuilt according to industry 4.0 standard. With the help of the digital control, for example, 3D reinforced ceramic turbine components can be manufactured as prototypes and subsequently produced in series. Together with the company ark industrie AG, Aachen/Germany, and 2C-Composites GmbH & Co. KG, Heinsberg/Germany, the control system was completely redesigned so that the machine can be monitored and operated from anywhere.