Textile Technology section
Avalution: changes in body circumferences in the USA
At the Texprocess in Frankfurt/Germany from May 14-17, 2019, Avalution GmbH, Kaiserslautern/Germany, presented the first results of the most comprehensive representative measurement survey ever carried out with 3D body scanners in the USA. The results show that the population of the USA has changed – body height growth is slowing, while body circumferences are increasing. Significant differences can be seen between urban and rural populations, and between populations of different ethnic origins. The BMI has the highest average values ever determined by a measurement survey. This means that that the proportion of overweight people in the USA is significantly higher than in other nations. At the same time, however, there is a very broad spectrum of differing BMIs – in western USA, for example, the BMI is significantly lower than in the Midwest.
In the case of women, compared to the values of the 1990 NHANES III US study (accelerated to 2008), the following changes were found: body height increased +1.1 cm, chest circumference increased +4.8 cm, waist circumference increased +2.5 cm and hip circumference increased +9.2 cm.
In the case of men, body height increased +1.0 cm, chest circumference increased +4.4 cm, waist circumference increased +5.0 cm, hip circumference increased +6.6 cm.
In addition to the updating of the measurement tables for adults, children and juveniles were also measured.
Texprocess: Innovation Awards 2019
At the Texprocess, the international trade fair for processing textile and flexible materials in Frankfurt/Germany, 4 winners were presented with the Texprocess Innovation Award 2019 for new and further technological developments in the field of textile processing.
In the New Technology category, the jury was impressed by the new M-Type-Delta sewing system made by Dürkopp Adler AG, Bielefeld/Germany. The award-winning industrial-sewing concept can be integrated into a fully digitalized sewing production line for automotive interiors, home upholstery, leather goods and technical textiles. The second award in the New Technology category went to Vetron Typical Europe GmbH, Kaiserslautern/Germany, for the Vetron Viper, an ultra-lightweight sewing system made using carbon components.
The award winners in the New Process category include Assyst GmbH, Aschheim/Germany, for a 3D innovation process. For the first time ever, at the Texprocess the company showed how a digital process innovation can revolutionize the textile value chain, from design to development and sales. The second award in this category went to Lectra SA, Paris/France, for its fashion-on-demand technology, the first end-to-end solution for personalizing fashions.
Lenzing: lyocell fibers for aquatic farming
The producer of cellulosic fibers, Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria, presented a botanic solution for marine application, in particular for aquatic farming at the international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, Techtextil, in Frankfurt/Germany. The wood-based Lenzing branded lyocell fibers are used for the construction of ropes and nets in order to support the cultivation of marine cultures such as mollusks, mussels and edible seaweed to reduce plastic in the sea.
The loss of conventionally used synthetic fibers and plastics in the ocean accounts for 80% of all marine pollution. This is not only dangerous for marine life but also for humans as we consume some of these microplastics through our food. The development of 100% wood based mussel nets with Lenzing lyocell fibers contributes to the reduction of the annual plastic quantity in the marine environment.
The Lenzing Group initiated the project in collaboration with the Saxon Textile Research Institute (STFI), Chemnitz/Germany, and FIUM GmbH & Co. KG – Institut für Fisch & Umwelt (FIUM), Rostock/Germany.
ITA: Post-Doc Valentine Gesché receives NRW Innovation Award
The NRW Minister of Economic Affairs Andreas Pinkwart (FDP) presented the NRW Innovation Award in the category of young talent to Dr Valentine Gesché from the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA), Aachen/Germany. She receives the prize, endowed with € 50,000, for the development and research of patient-individualised implants.
As head of the Exist research transfer project PerAGraft, Gesché and her team are now working to bring this platform technology to market. Patients with a complex aortic aneurysm suffer from an increasing, pathological and permanent aneurysm of the aorta and shall be saved from the life-threatening rupture of the aorta by an individual implant. The innovative procedure reduces the delivery time of a customised implant from up to 8 weeks today to less than a week.
Karl Mayer: new premises for the Academy
The textile machinery manufacturer Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik GmbH, Obertshausen/Germany, has been running its own training center for imparting knowledge and know-how for more than 50 years. The Karl Mayer Academy now operates at locations in Germany, China and India.
The Karl Mayer Academy moved into its modern training center at its headquarters in April 2019 with hall covering an area of 755 m². It offers 3 separate classrooms, equipped with top-of-the-range training equipment, which are available for efficiently providing training in small groups. Specially designed high-tech production machines in the HKS series are available for practical training.
The new Karl Mayer Academy also gives an insight into the digital features of KM.ON. The training machines in the Academy are networked via k.ey – an industry PC combined with the relevant software - and provide access to KM.ON’s secure cloud systems.
The Karl Mayer Academy provides know-how on machine handling, maintenance and textile analysis. Basic and advanced courses, tailor-made to suit the needs of the participants having different levels of knowledge and learning objectives, are available in the relevant subject areas.
Fig.: (L-R) Oliver Mathews, Arno Gärtner, Dr. Helmut Pressl, Christine Wolters
Sandler: 140th company anniversary
On May 10, 2019, the nonwovens manufacturer Sandler AG, Schwarzenbach a.d. Saale/Germany celebrated its 140th company anniversary together with 240 guests from the political, economic and social spheres. The nonwovens manufacturer announced plans to invest in its facilities in Germany and the US.
In 140 years the family business Sandler developed from a wadding factory to one of the largest nonwovens manufacturers worldwide with 850 employees. Dr. Christian Heinrich Sandler, President and CEO, also announced plans for new investments: Over the next 2 years, Sandler plans to invest a total of € 80 million at the company headquarters in Schwarzenbach as well as Sandler Nonwoven Corp. in Perry, GA/USA. New production lines will expand the company’s manufacturing capacity, creating room for innovation. Over the course of the past 10 years, Sandler had invested a total of €139 million in buildings and production lines, at the same time almost doubling its staff.
Trützschler: new technology center for nonwovens
On May 15, 2019, the textile machinery manufacturer Trützschler GmbH & Co. KG, Mönchengladbach/Germany, opened its new customer and technology center for nonwovens in Egelsbach/Germany (at the site of Trützschler Nonwovens & Man Made Fibers GmbH) to push the technological innovations of nonwoven products as well as the related manufacturing processes.
The technology center presents 2 complete production lines: an inline carding line with thermobonding and spunlacing equipment and a spunlace-crosslapper line in an industrial working width. Both lines feature a wide range of possible variations and options to realise innovative end products. In addition, various sensors are installed in the machines which make good process monitoring possible.
Archroma: new Global Competence Center for Automotive & Synthetic Dyeing
On May 6, 2019, the producer of dyes and specialty chemicals Archroma Management LLC, Reinach/Switzerland, officially opened its new Global Competence Center for Automotive & Synthetic Dyeing in Korschenbroich/Germany. The site is part of former M. Dohmen GmbH, which is specialized in the production of textile dyes and chemicals for the automotive, carpet and apparel sectors, that Archroma acquired between 2014 and 2018.
With the new Global Competence Center, Archroma creates a global hub for technical expertise, technology and creativity. The site of Korschenbroich will therefore continue to operate as a specialist production and laboratory facility specialized in dyes and auxiliaries for synthetic fibers and wool, such as the Dorospers, Dorolan and Fadex ranges.
The new Competence Center for Automotive and Synthetic Dyeing comes as a new addition to Archroma’s existing network of global hubs of expertise: The Global Competence Center for Special Dyes in Barcelona/Spain and the Global Competence Center for Finishing in Reinach/Switzerland.
The Fiber Year: world fiber production only +1%
In 2018, the worsening economic climate has taken its toll on fiber production that has experienced the slowest growth in three years at 1% to almost 106 million tons. Natural fibers declined by nearly 2% as result of lower cotton cultivation and the manmade fiber business continued its 10 year expansion. Growth of 2% at synthetic fibers was once again outpaced by cellulosic fibers lifting output by almost 3%.
Global activity in spun yarn and filament manufacturing has decelerated likewise to 1% with the filament production growth remaining in positive territory since financial crisis. Dynamics in nonwovens and unspun applications experienced faster expansion than yarns in the 5th consecutive year at 4%.
The textile yearbook “The Fiber Year 2019” from The Fiber Year GmbH, Speicher/Switzerland, comprises latest data and trends on natural and man-made fibers, raw materials with a forecast until 2022 as well as nonwovens. The electronic report with 333 pages can be purchased for CHF650 at: www.thefiberyear.com
The Lycra Company: Advanced Textile Innovation Center in China
The provider of fiber and technology solutions for the global apparel and personal care industries, The Lycra Company, Wilmington, DE/USA, (formerly the Apparel & Advanced Textiles business of Invista S.a.r.l., Wichita, KS/USA) officially opened its new Advanced Textile Innovation Center (ATIC) in Nanhai, Guangdong/China, on May 16, 2019. The new 4,500 m² research and development (R&D) laboratory, the company’s fourth, represents an increase in the company’s global R&D capabilities.
Scientists at the R&D center will help customers throughout Asia, as well as Western-based companies with local sourcing offices, create innovative fabrics and garments using The Lycra Company’s branded textile solutions, which include Lycra fiber, Lycra HyFit fiber, Coolmax fiber and Thermolite fiber. The research team will also engage with customers in opportunity identification, as well as the development and commercialization of new polymers, fibers and textile technologies.
In the ATIC real world manufacturing processes including knitting, weaving, dyeing and finishing can be simulated. In addition, the lab has garment engineering, fabric certification and analytical testing tools to help customers achieve desired performance attributes for their fabrics or garments.