Textile Technology section
Lenzing: foundation stone laid for world’s largest lyocell fibers plant
With a capacity of 100,000 tons/year of lyocell fibers, the new plant of the producer of cellulosic fibers, Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria, will be the largest lyocell facility in the world. On November 15, 2019, Lenzing officially started construction work in Thailand within the context of the foundation stone laying ceremony.
Following the approval granted to the project in June 2019 and the successful signing of the Engineering, Procurement, Construction Management (EPCM) contract with Wood PLC in August 2019, construction work was formally commenced on the new manufacturing facility located in Prachinburi province.
This project will help Lenzing to meet the strong demand for lyocell fibers and simultaneously strengthen the company’s market leadership position for specialty fibers.
The investment volume for a first production line amounts to €400 million. Up to 3 additional production lines can be built and operated on the site. The new manufacturing facility is scheduled to be completed in the 3rd quarter of 2021, with production of the first fibers already expected for the 4th quarter 2021.
Lenzing: prize for blockchain technology at the Corona awards
The “Digital Corona” in Gold has been awarded to the producer of cellulosic fibers, Lenzing AG, Lenzing/Austria. The company received the 1st prize for the introduction of the blockchain technology for fiber identification along the textile value chain.
The business prize, awarded for the first time in this category, is awarded to companies that have dynamically advanced the digitalization of business processes, products, services and business models in recent years.
In addition, Lenzing received Bronze for the “Standort-Corona” for its achievements as a leading company and major economic engine in the region where it is headquartered in Lenzing/Austria. With its continuously high investment activity at the site, the company is constantly contributing to the strengthening of the economic area. In 2019, Lenzing successfully completed its expansion and modernization drive at the pulp plant there, increasing production capacity to 320,000 tons/year. As part of its climate goals, Lenzing also decided to invest €40 million to expand the production of the raw material sulfuric acid at the same site. In the future, a new air purification and sulfur recovery plant will not only optimize the company’s self-sufficiency for this raw material and enhance process reliability but improve environmental protection within the context of a clear forward-looking strategy.
Levi Strauss: new global water action strategy
Apparel manufacturer Levi Strauss & Co. (Levi) San Francisco, CA/USA, has announced a new water action strategy that represents an evolution in thinking around water use in a global supply chain, particularly in areas already facing water stress, and a new way to define successful water stewardship in manufacturing. It uses the latest water science and data, consultations with leading water experts, and the company’s own water management experience to set a new standard for the company and the industry.
Recognizing that saving a liter of water where it is plentiful, while important, is not as critical as saving a liter where water is scarce, Levi will shift from a singular “one-size-fits-all” approach to a more responsive, contextual approach to water management. This will allow the company to focus reduction efforts where they are needed most, with a goal of reducing its cumulative water use for manufacturing by 50% in water-stressed areas by 2025.
Furthermore, the strategy is designed to increase access to clean, safe drinking water for communities in sourcing locations – and to drive collective action that delivers lasting change for surrounding communities and watersheds as well. The core elements of the new strategy will, among other things, involve Levi working with key suppliers that represent 80% of total product volume to set and achieve specific water use targets.
Zschimmer & Schwarz: new pigment inks for digital printing
In June 2019 at the ITMA in Barcelona/Spain, the producer of textile auxiliaries, Zschimmer & Schwarz Mohsdorf GmbH & Co. KG, Burgstädt/Germany, presented its new pigment inks Diamontex for digital printing together with its partner Mutoh Europe NV, Ostende/Belgium, on a ValueJet 1938TX direct-to-textile printer. These inks offer printing solutions for a wide variety of textile fibers like cotton, polyester, blends or special materials with very good washing and rub fastness. This solution does not require priming on cellulosics, which helps reduce the use of chemicals. The inks are also compliant with GOTS, bluesign and Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex.
Diamontex FCO is the first foam priming/coating compound for online application in digital printing machines and has exclusively been customized for MS Printing Solutions srl, Caronno Pertusella/Italy.
The new innovative finishing agent Airmax 2.0 improves indoor air quality by reducing bad smells and eliminating harmful substances. Airmax 2.0 performs without any UV light and is ideally suited for carpets, curtains, wallpapers, car interiors, hospitals and retirement homes.
Monforts: new exhaust air treatment system
The manufacturer of textile machinery A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, Mönchengladbach/Germany, presented an energy-optimized new version of its Montex at the ITMA 2019 from June 20-26, 2019, in Barcelona/Spain. With the introduction of the new MonforClean exhaust air treatment system and other process innovations, Monforts has been able to further reduce the energy consumption of Montex stenters by a further 13%.
Exhaust air treatment on stenter frames has posed particular challenges over the years, since the air can contain significant amounts of oil, fiber and even wax particles that may see emissions limits being reached in the processing of certain fabrics, depending on the legal specifications. In addressing this issue, Monforts is now incorporating the MonforClean module into the stenter frame, so there is no additional space requirement. At the same time, the costs for laborious secondary installations and the piping of the exhaust air treatment components, as well as supporting structures are eliminated due to the machine configuration. The waste heat from the drying process is used to pre-heat the drying air, resulting in a radical reduction in the conventional heat supply required compared to gas and thermal oil heating. The further integration of an automatic exhaust air filter washing system automatically cleans the module elements, ensuring the consistent efficiency of both the filter and heat recovery modules. The modular MonforClean system is also available in different expansion stages and automates the heat recovery and exhaust air treatment, while eliminating odors and ensuring the exhaust air is highly purified before escaping into the atmosphere.
Monforts: improved capacity, quality and reproducibility for Arta products
In addition to other technologies, the recent investment program of Arta Tekstil Ltd., Çorlu /Turkey, has seen the installation of a new European-built Monforts Thermex Econtrol dyeing system as well as two 10-chamber Monfongs Montex stenters and a Monfongs sanforizing unit from A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, Mönchengladbach/Germany. This has provided the company with a far wider range of fabric finishes and surface effects.
Arta specializes in cotton, polyester, viscose and lyocell finished fabrics and their blends, with varying levels of controlled stretch, in advanced weaves including twills, poplins, canvas, sateen, double-face as and dobby qualities. With a production capacity of around 4 million meters of finished woven fabrics per month, Arta employs 300 workers, with 50% of its output exported to key retail customers and the other half produced on a commission basis.
The latest Monforts and Monfongs installations have resulted in a production increase of over 50%, with a marked improvement in quality and reproducibility. The company’s Thermex Econtrol range has a working width of 1.8 m and allows the single-bath continuous dyeing of cotton and polyester fabrics with selected reactive and dispersion dyestuffs, as well as cotton-polyester blends to be processed without reductive intermediate cleaning, eliminating the need for a steamer.
Pfaff: new facility in Bensheim/Germany
On March 7, 2019, the branch office KSL, Lorsch/Germany of the supplier of sewing technology Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH Kaiserslautern/Germany, laid the foundation of a new 8,000 m²-facility in Bensheim/Germany. This production creates the basis for the further expansion of the high-tech system solutions for the automated processing of technical textiles, leather and composites sold under the KSL-brand as well as the increase of jobs from currently 100 to 160 highly-qualified employees. Following the scheduled completion in late 2019, the latest CNC-sewing systems, 3D-sewing robots, multi-needle systems and fully automated production lines that are increasingly demanded by the customers in the automation context are to be developed, manufactured and marketed in the new location. The investment in the new building totals € 10 million.
Pfaff Industriesysteme und Maschinen GmbH is a 100 % subsidiary of Dürkopp Adler AG (DA Group), Bielefeld/Germany, who is the developer of the project. The DA Group in turn is part of the ShangGong Group Co., Ltd., Shanghai/China, with 3,500 employees in 22 locations worldwide.
Monforts: complete Econtrol for Istanbul Boyahanesi
The dyeing and finishing company Istanbul Boyahanesi, Çerkezköy/Turkey, has invested in a new Thermex Econtrol continuous dyeing line from the manufacturer of textile machinery A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, Mönchengladbach/Germany. Through investment, the company is planning to increase its capacity for the commission dyeing and finishing of woven goods to a monthly 2.5 million m² during 2019.
Istanbul Boyahanesi was founded in 2017 on the site of an older existing dyehouse. The existing equipment that the company inherited included a 23-year-old Monforts Montex stenter, which is only suitable for producing heavy weight fabrics with weights of 300 g/m² and above. The new Thermex allows reduction down to fabric weights of 80 g/m².
The Thermex Econtrol range has a working width of 1.8 m and allows the single-bath continuous dyeing of cotton and polyester fabrics with selected reactive and dispersion dyestuffs, as well as cotton-polyester blends to be processed without reductive intermediate cleaning, eliminating the need for a steamer. Other processes, such as the use of indanthren vat dyes for enhanced wash and boil fastness, or the over-dyeing on reactive-dyed cotton fabrics to achieve an extremely broad range of color effects, are also carried out on the range.
ITME Africa: launch of an international event
The India International Textile Machinery Exhibition Society (India ITME Society), Mumbai/India, has announced a new business event named ITME Africa 2020. The event will take place from February 14-16, 2020 in Addis Ababa/Ethiopia with the theme “Prosperity for Africa through Textile Technology”.
The undertaking is set to initiate the generation of employment, encourage skill development, motivate entrepreneurship in textiles, usher in investment and promote economic growth, thus bringing new aspirations for younger generation of African countries.
With the growing importance of South-South cooperation, India’s expertise can be leveraged to build textile industry in Africa through the sharing of knowledge, technology and lessons learnt. In this context, the Department for International Development (DFID), London/UK, mandated the International Trade Centre (ITC), Geneva/Switzerland, to design and implement a project, called ‘Supporting India’s Trade Preferences for Africa’ (SITA) with specific objective of increasing value of business transactions between India and selected African countries with the ultimate objective to create jobs and income opportunities. This involves India, Ethiopia, Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania.
ITME Africa 2020 is designed to serve as a gateway to all of Africa. It proposes to bring complete solutions to textile industry development throughout the continent through affordable technology, international exposure, learning and experience, confluence of business, investment opportunities, joint ventures, access to finance and networking, thus paving way for a wave of knowledge, progress, growth and prosperity.
For further information: www.itme-africa.com
Monforts: 3 new finishing ranges to mark 185th anniversary of Bethge
After sever weather damage to its factory in the summer of 2017, fabric producer Bethge AG Textilveredlung, Zofingen/Switzerland, opted to order 3 new machines from the manufacturer of textile machinery A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG, Mönchengladbach/Germany. These consisted of 2 new energy-saving 6-chamber Montex stenters, as well as a Monfortex compressive shrinkage range which is characterized by a larger shrink cylinder allowing for longer processing paths to achieve enhanced shrinkage values.
All of the Monforts lines have working widths of 3.4 metres and benefit from the latest Qualitex 800 control system. This has all of the familiar features of touchscreen smart phones and tablets, making navigation extremely easy and cutting down the time required for becoming familiar with the system. Operation is via touchscreen and wheel-effect selection and the dashboard can be individually configured to meet the exact needs of an operator’s tasks.
Bethge is specialized in the finishing of woven textiles for third party brands and distributors, primarily based on cotton and linen, as well as some polyester and polyamide. In addition, it also manufactures certain technical textiles, as well as damask fabrics and voiles destined for Africa’s apparel markets. After almost going out of business, the company is now back to full production, finishing some 3 million meters of fabric annually, and celebrates its 185th anniversary in 2019.