Textile Technology section
Human Solutions: winners of the Vidya Awards 2019
The software developer Assyst GmbH, Munich/Germany, a subsidiary of the provider of 3D body scanning and ergonomic simulation, Human Solutions GmbH, Kaiserslautern/Germany, presents the Vidya Award once a year to prepare students from technical colleges and universities for the practical requirements of the industry. The main condition is that entrants must work with the 3D simulation software Vidya. The motto of the Vidya Awards 2019 was “Bienvenue à la Moulin Rouge”.
At the international trade fair for processing textile and flexible materials Texprocess in Frankfurt/Germany from May 14-17, 2019, the winners were presented. The first place and €1,000 went to Anna Meier from the Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences, Mönchengladbach/Germany. This work convinced the judges with its outstanding simulation quality and a particularly beautiful rendering. 2nd place and € 500 went to a joint project of the Kerschensteinerschule, Frankfurt/Germany, the Elephant design, submitted by Sofie Florentine Flad, Leonie Kadura and Clara Heynhold. This group performance impressed the jury thanks to its concept, which was impressively accentuated by textures and poses in 3D Vidya.
Saurer: new air-spinning machine at the ITMA
The Autoairo air-spinning machine, launched at the ITMA 2019 in Barceona/Spain by the textile machinery manufacturer Saurer AG, Wattwil/Switzerland, has autonomous spinning positions with individual drives, integrated intelligence and a digital piecing unit. 24 piecing operations can be carried out simultaneously with SynchroPiecing 24.
Compared to other machines, the piecing capacity of the Autoairo is approx. twice as high. The Autoairo requires 40% less space than air-spinning machines with a one-sided design. This means that spinning mills' floor area can be smaller, which reduces construction and air conditioning costs.
With MultiLot, up to 4 lots can be spun on the Autoairo at the same time. In addition, seamless lot changes during ongoing production are possible. With PilotSpin, test packages can be manufactured while the other spinning positions simply continue with normal production. LED strips at each spinning position signal, among other things, that cans need to be replaced soon. This ensures rapid intervention by personnel without the need for cumbersome tours of inspection.
ITMA: new record with biggest number of exhibitors
Since its launch in 1951, the ITMA has enjoyed wide industry recognition as the world’s largest textile and garment technology exhibition. This year’s event in Barcelona sees its reputation solidify further with the largest gathering of exhibitors in its history. The record number of exhibitors totaling 1,717 from 45 countries has set a new milestone.
The exhibits are showcased over 114,500 m² of net exhibit space, a 9% increase over the previous edition in 2015. The exhibition occupies all 9 halls of the Gran Via venue, including the space under the linkway. To allow more companies to participate, many exhibitors were allocated lesser stand space than they had originally applied for.
Reflecting the international composition of the participants, the largest number of exhibitors are from Italy (364 exhibitors), China (276 exhibitors), Germany (222 exhibitors), India (169 exhibitors) and Turkey (164 exhibitors).
CEMATEX countries continue to occupy the largest exhibit space, taking up 65% of the total net exhibit space. Italy booked 26% of the space, followed by Germany which booked 18%. The top non-CEMATEX countries are: Turkey with 9%, China with 8%, and India with 5% of the space booked.
A wide range of integrated solutions across the entire value chain in 19 exhibit sectors are present. Printing, which has seen many advances being made in the last few years, is an exciting growth sector. Chalking up a 38% increase in the number of exhibitors compared with the previous exhibition, it is one of the top 5 sectors at ITMA 2019: finishing (325 exhibitors), spinning (281 exhibitors), weaving (182 exhibitors), printing (157 exhibitors), knitting (136 exhibitors).
The nonwovens and technical textiles sectors, due to their wide range of applications, continue to be an important sector at the ITMA 2019. Garment making, which has been impacted by digitalization and fast fashion, is also making a bigger impact at the ITMA.
Oerlikon Barmag: Unifi ordered new texturing machine
The new eAFK Evo texturing machine from the machine and system builder Oerlikon Barmag, Chemnitz/Germany, a subsidiary of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment of Oerlikon Management AG, Pfäffikon/Switzerland, which was unveiled at the ITMA trade fair in Barcelona, has proven to be a breakthrough in the manufacture of yarns. This is evidenced by filament yarn producer, Unifi, Inc., Greensboro, NC/USA, who placed a significant order for these machines on the first day of the trade fair.
Unifi collaborated with Oerlikon to develop a specially-designed eAFK Evo pilot machine that has been operating for the last 8 months, using it to manufacture various Unifiber virgin and Repreve-branded recycled polyester and polyamide yarns.
Oerlikon is exhibiting a configuration of the eAFK Evo texturing machine at the ITMA designed for the cost-efficient production of commodity yarns. At just 4.7 m in height, this compact machine still comes with a 4-deck winding system. The most important foundation for both machines is the 300 mm-long EvoCooler with its active cooling technology. The EvoCooler’s controllable cooling unit opens a huge production window, with titers ranging from around 35-350 dtex and including microfilaments; combining it with the EvoHeater increases texturing speed by about 20%. The EvoCooler also enables very even yarn dyeing and provides significant benefits using no additional energy compared to current offerings. With the optimized, energy-efficient EvoHeater and its connected peripherals, the machine offers up to 25% energy savings.
ZDHC: Global Chemical Industry Round Table join ZDHC
After an intense dialogue and a series of meetings during the past year between the ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) Board of Directors and the Global Chemical Industry Round Table initiative (GCIRT), an alignment was gained on ZDHC organizational commitments and a mutual understanding of the role of chemical suppliers within the ZDHC program. This opens the doors for broader, more active distribution of chemistry expertise and implementation support of textile dye and leather chemical manufacturing industry in the ZDHC program.
As a consequence of the alignment the GCIRT signatory companies will each be joining the ZDHC Foundation as contributors and uploading their products in the Chemical Module of the ZDHC Gateway via bluesign’s bluefinder tool.
The GCIRT members are: Archroma (Switzerland); CHT Germany GmbH (Germany); Colourtex Industries Pte Ltd (India); DyStar Singapore Pte Ltd (Singapore); Huntsman Textile Effects (Singapore); Kisco (Korea); Pulcra Chemicals Group (Germany); Rudolf GmbH (Germany); Tanatex Chemicals BV (Netherlands).
Rieter: large contract from Egypt
The textile machinery manufactuer Rieter Management Ltd., Winterthur/Switzerland, signed several contracts with the Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Co., Cairo/Egypt, at the ITMA 2019 in Barcelona/Spain. The 7 projects entail a total of CHF180 million. These contracts comprise delivery of compact and ring-spinning systems over the next 2 years. The order is part of a comprehensive modernization program of the Egyptian textile industry. Order intakes are anticipated to be realized in 2019 with sales posted in the 2020/2021 financial years.
The restructuring program aims to restore Egypt’s prominent position in the world markets, capitalizing on the globally renowned fine Egyptian cotton fiber. The program includes the modernization of spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, finishing, printing and confection, based on a product line definition which brings forth added value to Egyptian cotton, from cotton farming to ready-made goods with world class level in terms of quality and efficiency – aiming to support Egypt private sector upstream manufacturers competitiveness in the world markets.
The total value of the program is approximately €1 billion, which includes around 780,000 new spindles and 1,250 new looms, dyeing, printing and finishing machinery and state-of-the-art cutting and sewing equipment.
Sanitized: odor control using natural mint
Reliable odor-management for cotton textiles using natural mint is a new development from the supplier of antimicrobial hygiene function for textiles and polymers, Sanitized AG, Burgdorf/Switzerland. The new Sanitized Mintactiv additive is highly wash-proof, effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, metal-free, applied without binders and made from the sustainable, renewable natural resource peppermint.
The base substance is farmed in plantations: natural peppermint (Mentha piperita). It contains menthol, an essential oil with an antimicrobial effect. It is precisely this natural biocidal effect which is the basis for Sanitized Mintactiv. The peppermint oil is then refined for use in the textile industry, leaving it metal-free and 100 % natural.
Sanitized Mintactiv is active against a variety of both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, including methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). The new, metal-free product can be applied in combination with other textile effects in both extraction and padding processes. A binder is not required.
Cotton textiles such as underwear, t-shirts and outerwear, as well as bed linen and towels are suitable for treatment with Sanitized Mintactiv. The odor-free wearing comfort can withstand up to 50 household washes.
DuPont: inauguration of new Thermo-Man burn test unit
The chemical company DowDuPont Specialty, Wilmington, DE/USA, inaugurated the new Thermo-Man burn test unit at its European Technical Center (ETC) in Meyrin/Switzerland. Guests witnessed the latest smart and innovative Personal Protective Equipment made by the brands Nomex and Kevlar, as well as Tyvek and Tychem coveralls and the new Tychem Chemical gloves. In addition to senior staff from DuPont, the inauguration day saw the attendance of a wide range of end users from fire fighters to experts in utilities and the oil and gas sector, to specialists from the manufacturing and processing industries.
Developed by DuPont, in conjunction with the US Air Force, the new Thermo-Man is an advanced life-size thermal burn injury evaluation system. Designed to help the optimization of garment design for heat and flame protection, the system uses a test mannequin that employs skin model software to predict burn injuries. The system simulates a worst-case scenario and has become the industry standard ISO13506, which specifies the overall requirements, equipment and calculation methods to provide results that can be used for evaluating the performance of complete garments or protective-clothing ensembles exposed to short-duration flame engulfment.
DITF: high-performance materials from ceramic fibers
The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF), Denkendorf/Germany have been developing ceramic fiber composites, so-called CMCs (ceramic matrix composites), with special property profiles for decades. Recently, considerable investments have been made in plant technology, as the aim of the research activities is to transfer the manufacturing process to industrial production. The focus is on the development of oxide ceramic fibers based on mullite and corundum.
The decisive property of these fibers is their distinctive high temperature resistance. The so-called OXCEFI ceramic fibers developed at the DITF already achieve values that exceed those of the best commercially available fibers.
In this respect, interest in their economical implementation is also growing. Industry is already showing great interest in transferring the manufacturing technology into industrial production. Ceramic composites are used in high-temperature lightweight construction, where, for example, they can replace metallic super-alloys and outperform them in terms of temperature resistance, specific strengths and modules. One field of application is the development of new types of aircraft gas turbines and stationary gas turbines with reduced emission values and higher efficiencies.
Euratex: attracting young and skilled workforce
At the General Assembly of the European Apparel and Textile Confederation (Euratex), Brussels/Belgium, on June 13, 2018 in Brussels/Belgium, international experts presented the challenges and possible solutions to tackle the issue of attracting young and skilled workforce in the textile and clothing sector. Over 120 participants attended the event.
Although the industry is witnessing a period of positive evolution – since 2012 turnover has grown by 10% to € 178 billion, extra-EU exports are up by 23% and have reached € 50 billion for the first time, and labor productivity has grown an impressive 22% – it still faces significant challenges, the biggest one being the difficulty of recruiting and retaining skilled workforce.
In the opening session of the event, newly-elected Euratex President Alberto Paccanelli stressed that “companies hiring today not only look for young people with the same skill sets as the retiring workforce, but also new talent with creative, highly technical and digital skills for high added value jobs in design, product development, technical textile production, digitalization, sustainability and circular economy.”