From the Sector

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK enjoyed a highly successful exhibition at COMPAMED 2024 in Düsseldorf. This was the first time that FET had exhibited at this leading international trade fair for the medical technology supplier sector, a reflection of the company’s growing role in the global medical sector. In 2023-24, over 60% of FET’s turnover was derived from the medical market.

“It is never certain whether a new exhibition will prove to be a successful venture until it is tested in practice” commented FET’s Managing Director Richard Slack, “but we are delighted to report that COMPAMED 2024 exceeded all expectations. In fact, we have already booked a stand for next year’s exhibition in November, albeit in a slightly different location”.

COMPAMED 2024 attracts suppliers of a comprehensive range of high-quality medical technology components, services and production equipment for the medical industry. FET’s expertise in this sector therefore proved to be a perfect fit. With almost 40 serious customer leads taken at the show from both existing and previously unidentified clients, the initial outlook is for a very successful exhibition which will be followed up by future participation at this annual event.

FET’s established expertise lies in laboratory and pilot melt spinning equipment for a vast range of applications, especially precursor materials used in high value medical devices and specialised novel fibres from exotic and difficult to process polymers. In cases where melt spinning solutions are not suitable, FET provides a viable alternative with pilot and small scale production wet spinning systems.

Central to FET’s success has always been its ability to provide customers with advanced testing facilities and equipment at its Fibre Development Centre in Leeds, complemented by unrivalled knowledge and expertise in research and production techniques.

FET has successfully processed over 100 different polymer types and its systems can melt spin resorbable polymers in multifilament, monofilament and nonwoven formats, collaborating with specialist companies worldwide to promote greater sustainability through innovative manufacturing processes.

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili has developed unique processes combining fermentation and organic chemistry to offer a high-performance, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemical dyes. Their ecological alternative significantly reduces the use of toxic chemicals and fossil resources, while aiming to cut CO2 emissions up to 50%. It meets the same performance as petrochemical indigo while seamlessly integrating into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in commercial dyeing equipment.

Pili’s colors development is based on standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), ensuring a rigorous process to measure and minimize their environmental impact.

A Partnership Driving Sustainable Transformation in the Industry
Fiber and dye are the two main components of denim products and also the ones with the greatest impact on their production. The partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Pili, and Orta establishes one of the highest ecological standards in the market with the use of regenerative cotton and biobased indigo.

Pili biobased indigo will make its debut in Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE’s Spring 2025 collections. This long-term partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Orta, and Pili will continue to expand in future collections. The launch will be exclusive on NET-A-PORTER on January 6, 2025, before being extended to agolde.com, citizensofhumanity.com, and other global retailers.

A Key Step Towards the Decarbonization of the Color Industry
Building on this first success, Pili is accelerating the development of coloring solutions for various industrial applications, particularly in the inks, paints, and polymers sectors. The aim is to decarbonize everyday products using high-performance biobased pigments, with the first applicative tests set to begin this year. Pili continues its mission to decarbonize the color industry, paving the way for a sustainable revolution.

Source Fashion, Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show running from 18th – 20th February 2025 at Olympia London, has announced a sneak preview of seminars and speakers including All Saints founder Stuart Trevor, Nobody’s Child founder Andrew Xeni, Safia Minney MBE, and the debut of Source Debates.

Debuting at the February show, Source Debates will tackle some of the most pressing and provocative topics in sustainable fashion. This space invites attendees to engage in open dialogue together - alongside industry experts, other fashion brands and retailers, and sustainability and sourcing professionals. The space will challenge the status quo and explore actionable solutions to the industry’s toughest issues.

Designed to be an interactive forum, Source Debates provides a platform for honest discussion, to connect with peers and debate the future of sustainable fashion. It’s a unique opportunity to learn and uncover fresh perspectives on what meaningful change could look like. Expect to hear from speakers including Simon Platts, Co-Founder of Recomme, social entrepreneur Safia Minney MBE, Mike Coates from the CMA, fashion futurist Geraldine Wharry and many more to be confirmed, on topics including:

• Back to the future – how do we slow down consumption and produce less?  
• The language of sustainability
• Overcoming the fear of sustainability
• Taking the lead: Collaboration in the absence of legislative change
• Speculative design thinking - preparing for the future of fashion retail
• Breaking the cycle - driving systemic change in fashion supply chains

Visitors will also be invited to attend three full days of seminars on the Source Catwalk Stage, covering a wide range of subject matters, including conversations around circularity and sustainability, advice on the latest legislations and certifications, and discussions with some of the biggest names in the industry.

Textile producers in the EU will soon be required to integrate Digital Product Passports (DPPs) into their operations under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), which came into effect in 2024. These passports are set to become mandatory across certain product categories, starting with batteries in February 2027 and textiles later that year.

The ESPR is a cornerstone of the EU's strategy to promote a circular economy and enhance sustainability across the product value chain, particularly in sectors that are resource intensive and have significant potential for circularity, such as textiles.

DPPs will digitally record essential information about a product's lifecycle including material composition, weights, volumes, place of manufacture, carbon data, maintenance, ownership, care instructions and documentation. This requirement will apply to any products sold within the EU, regardless of where they are manufactured.

While detailed category-specific requirements are still being finalised, given the length and complexity of procurement processes, producers are encouraged to act now, piloting solutions to assess data readiness and bridge gaps early.

Reconomy has partnered with Fabacus to deliver a robust, data-driven solution. This ensures compliance while enabling scalability and unlocking new opportunities for producers through DPP technology.

This latest offering will form part of Reconomy’s broader end-to-end textile EPR solution launched in April 2024 to help producers understand and meet their global legislative requirements and the timescales of different EPR schemes. This comprehensive one-stop shop offering includes regulatory monitoring, consultancy, data management, environmental compliance, material returns and end of life treatment.

The joint venture between the Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) and Project:
Plan B, known as Project Re:Claim, uses an ISEC evo system from PURE LOOP to process used garments and textiles. The project, supported by the EREMA Group, represents Europe’s first commercial scale polyester textile recycling system. Project Re:Claim is the first recycling system for textile polyester in Europe, specialising in post-consumer and post-industrial textiles.

On 22 November, the prestigious Plastics Industry Awards ceremony was held in London, UK. Project Re:Claim was recognised in the “Recycler of the Year” category. The partner companies accepted the award together with great enthusiasm.

Manfred Dobersberger, Managing Director of PURE LOOP, said: “We are incredibly proud of this recognition, which once again proves that going the extra mile truly pays off. The PURE LOOP team believed in taking new paths, and now we are being rewarded with this award. It’s a well- deserved acknowledgment of the hard work and determination our team has shown. Project Re:Claim is a true example of how successful collaboration between companies can drive forward textile recycling. I’m eager to see where this journey will take us.”

James Holmes, Production Director at Plan B, said: “We are thrilled to receive this prestigious award, which underscores the dedication and innovation that Project Plan B brings to the table. The success of Project Re:Claim is a testament to the power of collaboration and the relentless pursuit of sustainability. Our team at Plan B, in partnership with SATCoL and PURE LOOP, has worked tirelessly to create a groundbreaking recycling system that addresses the pressing issue of textile waste. This recognition motivates us to continue pushing the boundaries of what is possible in textile recycling. We are excited about the future and the positive impact we can make on the environment.”

Source Fashion, Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, has announced an inspiring line-up of keynote speakers for its upcoming event, running from 18th to 20th February 2025 at Olympia London. On Wednesday 19th February, a full day of thought-provoking sessions will be headlined by industry visionaries including All Saints Founder Stuart Trevor, award-winning social entrepreneur Safia Minney MBE, and Andrew Xeni, Founder of Nobody’s Child.
 
The sessions will explore critical themes shaping the future of fashion, from sustainability to circularity and transparency, aiming to equip visitors with actionable insights to transform their brands and business practices.
 
Session Highlights:

• The Urgency of Transparency
  • Speaker: Andrew Xeni, Founder, Nobody’s Child, Fabacus and Soreto
  • Time: 11:00 AM
  • Synopsis: As transparency becomes the cornerstone of sustainability, Andrew Xeni will discuss how brands can lead the charge in accountability and ethical operations. From unveiling supply chain practices to empowering consumers, this session highlights the role of transparency in building trust and driving meaningful change in the fashion industry.
•  A Clothing Company That Doesn’t Produce Clothes
  • Speaker: Stuart Trevor, Founder, All Saints & Stuart Trevor
  • Time: 1:30 PM
  • Synopsis: In a groundbreaking fireside chat, Stuart Trevor will showcase how his company is pioneering circularity by transforming pre-owned clothes into desirable fashion pieces. By rethinking the traditional industry model, Trevor will illustrate the potential of upcycling to combat waste and redefine sustainable style.
• Ecosystem Thinking in Fashion: Redesigning for Regeneration
  • Speaker: Safia Minney MBE
  • Time: 2:10 PM
  • Synopsis: In a dynamic panel discussion, Safia Minney will explore strategies to adopt circular and regenerative models, scale these practices, and foster collaborative supply chain solutions. Featuring contributions from experts across industries, this session is set to empower visitors with practical tools for transformative change.

 The keynote sessions will be complemented by speakers from industry-leading organisations such as John Lewis, Vivo Footwear, Pepsi Co, Kingfisher, and environmental NGO WRAP. The full programme will be revealed in the coming weeks.
 
Join the Conversation
Source Fashion 2025 invites fashion professionals, sustainability advocates, and industry leaders to connect, learn, and lead the transformation of the fashion industry.
 
As Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, Source Fashion brings together a global community of brands, suppliers, and thought leaders to shape the future of ethical and sustainable fashion. Through cutting-edge events, expert-led sessions, and innovative showcases, Source Fashion champions transparency, circularity, and collaboration in the industry.

About Stuart Trevor
In 1983, Stuart Trevor was a finalist in the Paul Smith/Mont Blanc competition and in 1985 he won designer of the year at The Smirnoff Fashion awards “Menswear Day”. Aged 19 he became the first designer and main buyer for REISS. At 28 he founded All Saints and many of the clothes that continue to feature every week in the top 10 bestseller list of the high-street brand today, were designed by Trevor himself over 20 years ago.
 
About Safia Minney
Safia Minney, MBE, FRSA, is an award-winning social entrepreneur, consultant and advisor. Safia is recognised by the World Economic Forum as an Outstanding Social Entrepreneur and is a leading influencer and international speaker on sustainable fashion, sustainable supply chains, ethical business and climate action.
 
Safia founded REAL Sustainability CIC in 2019, to promote awareness and action for sustainable living and leadership. In 2022 REAL launched Fashion Declares – a bottom-up, industry wide movement to promote rapid action to redesign the fashion industry to operate within planetary boundaries.
 
About Andrew Xeni
Andrew Xeni is a visionary technology and retail entrepreneur. After building successful fashion manufacturing business suppling leading UK high street brands, Xeni went on to create eco-conscious 2023 Drapers Retailer of the Year (<£100m), Nobody’s Child, of which Marks and Spencer is a strategic investor and shareholder.
Merging both retail and technology, Xeni also founded award-winning retail tech companies Fabacus and Soreto.
 
As CEO of Fabacus, a DaaS (Data-as-a-Service) technology platform for revolutionising the licencing and retail industries, Xeni has established partnerships with a number of leading businesses within the sectors, including, Fanatics, UFC, Epic Games, Ubisoft and IMG, part of Endeavour.
 
This year, seeing the growing consumer demand for sustainably, Xeni pioneered the UK-first Digital Product Passport in a collaboration with between Fabacus and Nobody’s Child, in partnership with Coinbase.
 
Xeni is backed by a number of leading financial institutions, including iNovia Partners, led by former Google CFO, Patrick Pichette, as well as New Look founder, Tom Singh. In addition to managing a diverse portfolio of businesses, and sitting as Chairman for Nobody’s Child and Soreto, Xeni is an active angel investor.

Dibella‘s latest sustainability report covers the period from January 1st, 2023 to July 31st, 2024 and documents progress and future plans in the areas of environmental, social and corporate governance.

Dibella laid the foundations for corporate social responsibility back in the early 2010s. Since then, the company has been consistently committed to the implementation of socially and environmentally consciously produced textiles and has initiated and completed numerous lighthouse projects in the supply chain. Dibella presented its activities and goals for the first time in 2012 in its sustainability report. Since then, the company has documented its progress at regular intervals.

Environment
Particularly noteworthy are the constant proportion of GOTS and Fairtrade-certified products and a significant increase in the implementation of Cotton made in Africa cotton in the supply chain using the mass balance system: from 300 tonnes in 2023 to 750 tonnes in 2024. Another highlight is the reforestation project in Tamil Nadu, India, where over 4,000 trees have already been planted to offset CO₂ emissions. As a founding member of CIBUTEX, Dibella is also committed to the recovery of textile resources and the associated reduction of environmental pollution.

Social
Dibella has initiated and completed various social projects. One example is the improvement of working conditions in the supply chain by providing ergonomic seating for employees of a Pakistani clothing manufacturer. Dibella's own GoodTextiles Foundation also supports educational projects in India and drinking water initiatives in Africa. Measures have been introduced within the company to promote a good working environment.

Corporate Governance
99.5 per cent of textiles are now labelled with the Green Button, which confirms compliance with the Supply Chain Duty of Care Act. In addition, digital transparency tools such as the respect-code, which disclose the origin and production steps of the goods, have been further expanded. Following the coronavirus-related travel restrictions, business trips to India were also resumed in order to familiarise customers and interested parties with the positive ecological and social framework conditions of the supply chain.

Goals for the future
By 2030, company-related CO2 emissions are to be reduced by 45% and the proportion of organic Fairtrade cotton is to be increased to 20%. Overall, the proportion of sustainable cotton is to be increased to 70% of production. The company will continue to focus on sustainable innovation and transparency in the future.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will present its full range of high- performance materials for footwear at Inspiramais on January 21st and 22nd, 2025 in Porto Alegre, Brazil. The global leading manufacturer of performance materials will highlight its latest technical and sustainable innovations tailored for the shoe industry, including microfibers, counterliners, liners, interlinings, reinforcements, insoles, and membranes. At Inspiramais, designers and footwear professionals can meet with Brazil-based Freudenberg experts to support them design and develop products in line with the industry's evolving demands for performance and environmental responsibility.

Freudenberg’s presentation at the event underscores its commitment to innovation and sustainability within the industry. In line with its sustainability goals, Freudenberg has increased the proportion of products in its portfolio that incorporate recycled content and employ solvent-free and binder-free manufacturing processes. The company's efforts are exemplified by its range of vamp liners, reinforcements, and strobel insoles, which contain between 35% to 100% recycled material. The new insoles and reinforcements for sports shoes have recycled fiber content and provide high tensile and tear resistance at the same time.

Vegan suede
Additionally, Freudenberg is introducing a solvent-free vegan suede material, crafted from microfiber nonwovens, which offers both breathability and versatility in dyeing—a suitable choice for upper and facing in casual and athletic shoes.

Innovations for safety shoes and others
Freudenberg's advancements also extend to the realm of safety footwear, with the introduction of specialized insoles that are resistant to perforation and suitable for PU injection, as well as electrically conductive. Moreover, the company has developed breathable waterproof membranes that can be integrated into liners and interliners, enhancing both comfort and protection for safety shoes, boots, and waterproof footwear.

The company's new range of high performance counterliners is another highlight, designed to cater to a diverse array of footwear categories, including women's, men's, children's, safety shoes, boots, and athletic shoes. These counterliners are distinguished by their breathability, color variety, and superior abrasion resistance.

In cotton cultivation, soil quality and the associated fertility and health of the soil play a key role. For this reason, the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) in Washington has carried out an ambitious research project on this topic in collaboration with various international partner organisations – with promising results.

New and old methods
Soil health has long been the focus of agriculture and therefore also of cotton cultivation. The International Cotton Advisory Committee has repeatedly emphasised the importance of soil health for cotton farming in the past. The focus was particularly on the situation in developing countries, where yields are still low compared to those in developed countries. An ICAC team has now developed a special programme to improve soil health, based on studies by international research teams and practical experience. The aim is to help cotton producers to achieve better, higher quality crop yields in healthy soil and, at the same time, contribute to climate protection with traditional, sustainable agricultural methods for soil cultivation that have been used for years. Valuable biomaterials are produced using various composting and fermentation methods.

The building blocks of soil improvement
Biochar, bokashi and jeevamrit are important components of proven methods for soil improvement. All three are seen as beneficial products for promoting sustainable agricultural practices. They are inexpensive to produce and, when combined and mixed, they offer effective solutions for restoring degraded, i.e. quality-reduced soils of varying consistency. This is a constant challenge, especially in African regions.

Biochar
Following the recommendations of the ICAC, biochar is produced using the ‘Cone Pit Open-Earth Kiln’ technique. This involves burning the cotton stalks left over from the harvest.
The production of biochar is rooted in history: evidence shows that indigenous peoples in the Amazon used a form called ‘terra preta’ to enrich the soil over 1,000 years ago. In modern-day agriculture, the use of biochar has been rapidly gaining momentum over the last ten years. Africa in particular has seen a significant increase. The ICAC team discovered that biochar is particularly useful for improving acidic soils due to its high pH value (8.0 to 11.0). However, in neutral and alkaline soils, biochar can increase the pH of the soil, potentially leading to lower yields. To counteract this, the ICAC team recommends mixing biochar with bokashi compost.

Bokashi
Bokashi is a type of compost originating from Japan that is traditionally produced through a fermentation process using kitchen waste, agricultural residues and effective microorganisms. Bokashi has a highly acidic pH value of 3.5, which makes it an ideal material for balancing the alkalinity of biochar. According to the ICAC, combining biochar with bokashi compost in the right ratios can result in a balanced soil pH of around 6.5, which is ideal for most plants. This method not only neutralises the pH value of the biochar, but also provides essential nutrients for soil organisms and plants.

Jeevamrit
To further improve soil quality where necessary, the ICAC team introduced jeevamrit. Jeevamrit is a traditional Indian method that provides soils with a variety of microorganisms. The production of jeevamrit, which involves processing cow dung and sugarcane molasses, provides a rich source of beneficial microbes that improve nutrient availability and promote soil regeneration.

When biochar, bokashi and jeevamrit are combined, they form the basis for regenerative agriculture. Studies show that biochar improves soil structure, bokashi provides nutrients and jeevamrit promotes microbial diversity, leading to healthier soils, increased productivity and sustainability in agriculture.

Training initiatives promote knowledge
Over the past three years, training courses on regenerative agriculture have been held in Africa, India and Bangladesh. A total of 16 organisations were involved. The training focused on three main technologies: bokashi composting, the ICAC practices for biochar production and jeevamrit for inoculating soils with a variety of soil microbes. The programmes have made the production techniques accessible to smallholder farmers in particular, leading to widespread adoption and improved soil quality.

This year, Eastman and its innovative Naia™ cellulosic fibers have earned again the dark green shirt designation in the Canopy Hot Button Ranking and Report, underscoring the steadfast commitment to protecting ancient and endangered forests while driving innovation in Next Generation fiber solutions.

With “buttons” being used in the report as a measure of MMCF producers sustainability performance across seven critical categories, Eastman maintained a score of 30 buttons for the sustainable production of Naia™ cellulosic fibers. This recognition has been consistently reconfirmed since 2022, after Eastman’s first light green designation in 2019, reflecting their ongoing efforts to prioritize sustainable raw material sourcing, low-impact production processes, and fiber innovation that comes with a lighter impact on the planet.
The Naia™ Renew portfolio, including the Naia™ Renew ES, has also been a cornerstone of this success. Already available at scale, Naia™ Renew ES is created from a blend of 40% certified recycled waste materials, 20% certified recycled cellulose, and 40% sustainably sourced wood pulp. This innovative fiber has become a preferred choice for sustainability-driven brands like Reformation which has already launched its 2nd collection and is gaining increasing traction in retail markets worldwide.

By investing in cutting-edge technologies and industry collaboration, Eastman is redefining what is possible in sustainable fiber innovation. The company remains committed to advancing its mission of creating high-quality, eco-conscious solutions that support the well-being of the planet, industry workers, and consumers alike.