From the Sector

A research report released today has revealed the innovative new ways retailers are using RFID technology in-store to improve profitability. Authored by Emeritus Professor Adrian Beck from the University of Leicester and the ECR Retail Loss Group and supported by Checkpoint Systems, Utilising RFID in Retailing: Insights on Innovationhighlights how companies are employing the technology for a broader range of purposes. It demonstrates the value the technology is bringing to their businesses and ultimately, the impact it is delivering to their bottom line. Crucially, it also shows thatmore retailers than ever are recognizing the benefits of RFID and driving uptake within their organisations. The report claims that as businesses are becoming more established in their use of RFID-generated data, they are gradually incorporating more usecases into their business-as-usual practices.

The report claims that as businesses are becoming more established in their use of RFID-generated data, they are gradually incorporating more usecases into their business-as-usual practices.

In particular, more and more retailers reported using RFID to streamline the audit process (as an alternative to infrequent organisational stock takes), which not only delivers considerable cost savings, but also provides more regular insights into the status of inventories. It also found that using RFID was having a significant impact on store processes. While RFID has always been key to inventory accuracy, some companies are now using this data to further improve business activities such as reducing phantom out of stocks, improving rapid stock search and find tasks and developing an efficient ship from store (SFS) capability.

Beyond the more traditional retail model, RFID was seen as a key facilitator in delivering omnichannel retailing by all those questioned. Without the inventory accuracy offered by RFID, few retailers believed they could reliably use their stores as fulfilment centres to output online orders. Indeed, one retailer admitted to only making RFID-enabled store stock available for this purpose. The use of RFID to improve online order accuracy is also becoming more commonplace, to reduce errors in the picking and packing process, therefore improving customer satisfaction. One retailer reported a 90% reduction in incorrect orders and customer complaints since introducing RFID into the process.

Looking to the future, one area where the benefits of RFID are starting to be tested is self-checkouts (SCO). While currently limited due to the need to have a 100% SKU tagging strategy in place, retailers are starting to recognize the benefits the technology could offer including increased speed of checkout, reduced likelihood of double scanning and thereby improved customer service. Another area where retailers also reported reaping the benefits of RFID was loss prevention. While none of those interviewed argued that reducing loss was the primary reason for investing in RFID, many acknowledged they were benefiting from it by using the technology to tackle refund frauds, enable dynamic loss product profiling, manage e-frauds and identify stolen products.

To ensure that outdoor clothing and equipment can remain in use for a long time, the right care is crucial. The cleaning and impregnation products from ATSKO preserve and protect the fabric - and nature, too.

The outdoor season has begun - hikers, trail runners, bikers, campers and many others are now drawn back out into nature. To make sure that functional clothing and gear are optimally prepared for every situation, they should be regularly cleaned, cared for and impregnated, especially when the waterproofing starts to wear off or dirt stains affect the fabric. Thorough cleaning and care at the end of the season also ensure that the outdoor equipment survives storage in the basement or attic undamaged and can develop its full performance again next year. For almost 90 years, the US manufacturer ATSKO has been developing sustainable products for the most extreme outdoor challenges. ATSKO stands for moisture protection as well as waterproofing and conditioning agents for shoes, clothing and outdoor accessories that maintain functionality and extend service life. Thanks to their natural ingredients, ATSKO products are sustainable and protect nature.

ATSKO is best known for three brands in particular: SNO-SEAL® Bees Wax is used to care for and protect leather shoes and leather products and is based on natural beeswax. SILICONE WATER-GUARD® spray protects functional textiles and equipment from moisture and wear and is breathable. Since 1982, SPORT-WASH© has become the leading detergent for high-performance sportswear and functional clothing. All products are also available in practical travel sizes that can be easily taken on tour or on vacation.

“The consequences of the ongoing pandemic spread of the coronavirus continue to govern our personal and professional lives. It is with a heavy heart that we must cancel the physical events in July, since these are not allowed to take place given the current legal constraints. Due to the lack of certainty for planning and new monthly evaluation we need to fulfil our obligations as event organiser and avoid unforeseeable risks for partners and clients.” Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP

A lack of permissions, adjustments to official measures at short notice, travel restrictions within Europe and overseas, potential quarantine obligations, short-term work in many companies – overall, a volatile situation makes it impossible to press ahead with the necessary planning in a responsible, risk-free way, especially for the exhibitors and partners.

Because of this, the organizers are now forced to cancel SEEK, PREMIUM and FASHIONTECH events in July 2021 and move them to January 2022 instead. Safeguarding the health and safety of exhibitors, guests, partners and employees always takes top priority.

SEEK and PREMIUM are live events and therefore spaces for engaging with others face-to-face. They are a vital meeting point for the whole industry that can only be augmented by our digital offerings. Under the current unpredictable conditions the usual levels of service cannot be guaranteed for clients and visitors.

July will see the start of Frankfurt Fashion Week (FFW) digital. Frankfurt Fashion Week Studio is the core element of the FFW opening season and encompasses the whole FFW ecosystem – with its key themes of Fashion Business, sustainability and digitisation – in the form of a digital portal.

FFW Studio is a progressively curated and staged platform that brings together all German fashion trade shows, conferences, fashion experiences and events under one roof for the first time. First as a digital venue, then as a hybrid one. For pioneers, brands, experiences, entertainment and networking.

“Over the past year we have felt a great sense of solidarity. The industry has given us enormous encouragement and the assurance that we are not only missed but needed. So we want to say thank you from the bottom of our hearts! We can't wait to get together in a few short months’ time to present concepts and projects, meet up face-to-face, and shape the future together. Now more than ever!” Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the PREMIUM GROUP   

• 18+ metric tons of aniline are estimated to have been removed from the denim supply chain in about 3 years⁽²⁾.
• That represents 300'000'000+ pairs of jeans free of aniline, with 18'000+ garment workers, and aquatic life, protected from its toxicity⁽²⁾.

Archroma celebrates nearly 3 years of successfully converting the denim industry to aniline-free⁽¹⁾ pre-reduced liquid indigo.

Archroma launched its aniline-free⁽¹⁾ Denisol^® Pure Indigo in May 2018⁽³⁾.

Aniline is a key ingredient to make the indigo molecule. Unfortunately, during this process some aniline impurities are carried through into the indigo dyestuff. When the indigo is dyed on the fabric, a lot of the aniline impurity is locked into the pigment in the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. The new Denisol^® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free⁽¹⁾ indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration.

Since the launch of Denisol^® Pure Indigo, several denim manufacturers, such as front-runner Absolute Denim, as well as Advance Denim, Azgard 9, Kilim Group, Nuevo Mundo, Rantex, Shasha Denim and Tuong Long, have taken the matter in their hands and converted their production or dedicated lines to aniline-free denim to brands and retailers.

The innovation is also supported by denim partners such as Be Disobedient and The Denim Window.

Archroma evaluates that, based on the total quantity of Denisol^® Pure Indigo sold until its introduction, its partners helped remove almost 18 metric tons of aniline from the denim supply chain. That represents an equivalent to about 300’000’000 pairs of jeans free of aniline and more than 18’000 garment workers protected from its toxicity⁽²⁾.

(1) Below limits of detection according to industry standards (tested & proven).
(2) Based on 15 minutes of work to produce one pair of jeans, produced over 8-hour working days and 300 working weeks per year.
(3) For the launch press release, click here.

• CHIC Shanghai, March 17 to 19, 2021 (due to new regulation to control the infection rate)
• 905 exhibitors are present at CHIC
• Parallel: CHIC ONLINE as a digital platform with upgrade of the CHIC
• APP
• CHIC GARDEN: puts fashion and sustainability in the limelight

The CHIC spring event takes place from March 17th to 19th under strict hygiene guidelines in the National Exhibition & Convention Center in Shanghai parallel to Intertextile Shanghai, Yarn Expo and PH Value.

The Chinese economy has recovered again after the pandemic in China and already reached pre-crisis level with 6.5% growth in the fourth quarter of 2020. McKinsey estimates are a 5 to 10% growth in sales in China in 2021 compared to 2019. Thanks to good sales in China, the fashion luxury brands in particular have been able to improve their sales figures. But also regarding online trade, Chinese ecommerce sales were in first place worldwide for the eighth year in a row. The average per capita income of consumers rose by 3.8% last year.

905 exhibitors and 932 brands will present themselves on site at CHIC. Around 95,000 trade visitors from all retail areas, including all relevant online sales platforms, are expected. The CHIC's online and live streaming events, which run parallel to the trade fairs, have recorded an average of 150,000 clicks on each show since April last year.

CHIC Garden
China is to become climate neutral by 2060, which of course also affects the fashion sector. Overall, the awareness of Chinese consumers has developed even more towards high-quality, sustainable collections. In their "State of Fashion 2021" report, McKinsey & BoF analyze the awareness development in China that consumers and producers are increasingly recognizing the importance of joint efforts by all participants in the value chain to work together in order to achieve sustainability in the fashion industry.

The CHIC flagship event visualizes this topic with the "CHIC Garden" theme. With the help of garden design experts, the fair is transformed into an inspiring garden paradise that reflects closeness to nature and the appreciation of natural resources.

As an exception, the CHIC autumn event, CHIC Shanghai will take place in August this year (25th to 27th August 2021).

Since 2014, Iluna Group Srl stands out for braiding together the values of beauty, innovation and responsibility.
The company achieved this with Iluna Lab, a cutting-edge research and development centre where laces are conceived and engineered to become sustainable ingredients for the contemporary wardrobe.
The smart values are attested by the STeP - Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko – Tex® certification for its ethic approach. “We are also the first lace producer to have gained the GRS - Global Recycled Standard for transformed products, and whose products are all certified OEKO-TEX® Standard 100.” Comments Walter Colombo, Technical Director at Iluna Group Srl.
 Moreover, in recognition of the great value of responsible innovation, Iluna Group is now officially a partner of C.L.A.S.S., the international ecohub founded in 2007 by Giusy Bettoni, a reference point in the fashion and textile sector for all those who want to make fashion smarter.

Now the company announces two important collaborations with Néné Paris and NOO, “two booming French brands which have intercepted and share our values and vision for sustainability where beauty and innovation are key”.

Néné focuses on preserving natural resources using only upcycled fabrics or fabrics made with recycled fibers. Each and every step of the production is entirely made in Europe.

French independent designer brand NOO creates exquisite lingerie, timeless ready-to-wear garments and bold cut swimwear and bodysuit for women. The brand pays extreme care to aesthetics and details at every step of the production process, from sourcing materials to waste reduction, choosing factories and using recyclable packagings.

The RUDOLF GROUP is an uncontested agent of positive change especially when it comes to pioneering technologies that help transforming the textile and fashion industries. A shining example of conscious leadership played by the RUDOLF GROUP over the past decades is the invention and introduction of fluorine-free Durable Water Repellency (DWR) for textile and apparel. Since 2003, the RUCO-DRY product line has gradually convinced the industry that water-resistance can be achieved through the study and replica of natural models. “Biomimicry and the study of lotus leaves and bird’s feathers were instrumental in developing the very first fluorine-free DWR’s” says Dr. Gunther Duschek, Managing Director at RUDOLF GROUP.

Fifteen years later, RUDOLF GROUP does it again and takes a significant leapfrog. It pushes the boundaries of R&D well beyond fluorine-free, embraces nature and introduces water repellent performance entirely based on natural components. “We are launching two brand new, distinctive product propositions entirely manufactured from natural sources that do not compete with human and/or animal nutrition” continues Dr. Duschek.

RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR is an absolute breakthrough and the first Durable Water Repellent (DWR) agent based on plant-derived processing wastes. In fact, RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR is made of natural waste that accumulates as by-product during the processing of cereal grains in the food industry. The leftover material that would otherwise be disposed of is refined to create a powerful water and stain repellent textile finish.

“By turning natural waste into DWR we have optimized the biologic character of RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR where the active component is made of more than 90% bio carbon” states Dr. Dirk Sielemann, R&D Director at RUDOLF GROUP. He continues: “Although most of the product is composed by recycled biomass, RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR meets the performance and durability of conventional water repellent textile finishes”.

RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE is an equally outstanding product innovation where DWR is entirely based on a carefully selected mix of natural plant extracts. The well-balanced mix of plant-based ingredients combines excellent water and stain repellent effects with breathability and a natural handfeel. 

Unlike other 100% renewable raw materials, those used in the making of RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE are chemically and genetically non-modified and are not used as food, feed or fuel. Furthermore, all of the plant extracts that compose RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE are subject to a strict conservation and sustainability framework. “That’s why the supply of RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE is likely to remain limited to the creation and marketing of performance outdoor and sports apparel programs embedding state-of-the-art sustainable technology” concludes Dr. Duschek.

Both RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR and RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE are marketed through the BIO-LOGIC trademark, registered by RUDOLF GROUP.

• "Dibella up" records its first big success

Aalten, "Dibella up" is bearing its first fruits. Since the launch of the recycling concept initiated in August 2020, six tons of sorted laundry items have already been returned to Dibella and converted into new ones by the company in farsighted reuse projects. The customer who has been involved in the project from the very beginning is Lamme Textielbeheer from Nederhorst den Berg. The Dutch textile service provider sees the initiative as an important measure for more appreciation of resources.

Dibella has taken the closed-loop approach of the textile service as a model and has taken a step towards a completely closed cycle with the "Dibella up" project. The system includes unlimited reuse and recycling of the fibre raw materials bound in the textiles. To this end, the company's own textile qualities, which are selected from laundries, are taken back and passed on to selected upcycling projects. Polyester-cotton blended fabrics are processed there into high-quality bags. Pure natural fibre textiles as well as blended fabrics with at least 50 percent cotton are chemically converted into an important raw material for cellulose fibre production, while the remaining polyester is still being thermally recycled for technical reasons.

Six tons of laundry from the Netherlands

Lamme Textielbeheer was immediately enthusiastic about the "Dibella up" initiative. The committed company has been involved in various Dibella sustainability projects for many years and recognises the future-oriented character of the new project. "Our will to cooperate was immediately clear after Dibella's managing director Ralf Hellmann presented the upcycling project, because we see it as an important measure for the prudent use of resources," reports Jan Lamme, managing director of the company of the same name. "Within a very short period of time, we therefore jointly started to take back our discarded, no longer usable old textiles. In this way, we have already been able to return six tonnes of laundry for a new product cycle. This corresponds exactly to our idea of upcycling!". "Dibella provides stable, reusable cartons for shipping," says a delighted Frank David, Lamme's Assistant Operations Manager. "This makes collection much easier for us and we don't have to take any means of transport out of our laundry".

Prepared for the mega-trend of recycling management

Dibella would like to build on the initial joint success and further expand the initiative for a closed textile cycle in the industry. "The awareness of sustainability is high in the textile rental service. But the next mega-trend is already emerging. The future lies in closed-loop recycling. With "Dibella up", we are offering our customers the opportunity to get involved now and make resources usable in the long term. We are happy about every new cooperation partner who appreciates the value of textiles as much as we do".

Neumünster/Troisdorf, Germany, December 3, 2020 – just a few days ago, the second newly-delivered Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown system was commissioned at Innovatec’s state-of-the-art machine park. With it, the nonwovens manufacturer – based in Troisdorf in North Rhine-Westphalia – immediately started producing polypropylene filter nonwovens: in particular for use in protective face masks, which have been increasingly in demand since the start of the coronavirus pandemic and whose domestic manufacture is being supported by the Ger-man Government. Here, the highly-efficient Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown technology from Neumünster is supporting the production of these highly-effective filter media.

“Back in June 2020, Oerlikon Nonwoven delivered the first so-called 2-beam system to Innovatec”, reports Rainer Straub, Head of Oerlikon Nonwoven. Together with the second production line, the Troisdorf-based enterprise has been able to almost double its filter nonwoven output to date. The North Rhine-Westphalian company now has filter media production capacities that can be used to manufacture up to 2.5 billion operating room filter masks or a billion highly-effective FFP2 masks per year.

The, according to its own information, leading manufacturer of meltblown mask nonwovens in Europe is participating in the German Government’s ‘Nonwovens Production’ grant program to ramp up its output capacities and has for this reason already received a visit from top German politicians, including Federal Minister for Economic Affairs Peter Altmaier and North Rhine-Westphalia Minister President Armin Laschet. Together, politicians and industry want to ensure that the production capacities for protective equipment continue to grow in Germany and that above all critical supply chains are secured at both national and European levels. And companies such as Innovatec and Oerlikon Nonwoven are actively contributing towards this.

• Composite textiles for modern mobility
• Extremely lightweight, high tensile components by vombaur

In the snow, on a plane, in an electric vehicle or on a bicycle: no matter where and how we are on the road – composite textiles by vombaur ensure that we make good progress. With materials that are both extremely light and extremely reliable.

Lightweight components for modern mobility
Modern mobility relies on high-tech lightweight components Narrow textiles by vombaur are woven from high-performance fibres. On looms that are specially made for particularly demanding composite textiles: the textile company uses special machines to produce high-tech woven tapes with closed selvedges and elasticated UD tubulars that retain their 0° orientation over the entire length of the component – regardless of the diameter. Since they do not exhibit undesired break points caused by seams or welding, they not only have a particularly high bursting strength, they are also extremely reliable and durable.

Challenging applications
"From snowboards to aerospace – the applications for our composite textiles are demanding; the mechanical, chemical and thermal requirements are extreme," explains COO Christoph Schliefer. "As a development partner, we at vombaur are therefore often involved in product development at an early stage. We specify our woven tapes and tubulars individually for each project to suit the specific task at hand."

High quality raw materials, wide variety of geometries
The variety of shapes is virtually unlimited. vombaur manufactures 3D fabrics for composites in individual special shapes from carbon, aramid, glass or hybrids. Curves, edges, tubulars, spiral fabrics – the shape of the 3D fabrics, like the material itself, depends entirely on the task at hand. Powder or non-woven coatings create additional important properties.

Pioneering tech tex
"Developments in the field of modern mobility are happening at a rapid pace," emphasizes Schliefer. "With our composite textiles for extremely lightweight and high tenacity components, we at vombaur are also pushing these developments forward."