From the Sector

The Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project welcomes new partners and expands its North American geographical scope. Fashion for Good is pleased to announce the addition of lululemon as an external brand partner, joining the existing seven brand partners. They also welcome their new implementation partners Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, Goodwill Industries International Inc., and its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Additionally, Fashion for Good is pleased to recognise adidas as the project's lead sponsor, facilitating the complete realisation of the project scope.

Fashion for Good, together with Resource Recycling Systems, launched the Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project in January 2023. The project will conduct an extensive consumer survey to map the journey of a garment from closet to end of use, and present a comprehensive snapshot of textile waste composition generated in the United States. The insights gained from this 18-month project will help to scale collection, sorting, and recycling innovations and inform decisions on necessary investments and actions.

Within the first 6 months, the project has expanded to cover 6 key states: California, Texas, Florida, New York, New Jersey and Colorado. Additional implementation partners have also signed on to support the fibre composition data analysis: Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles (SMART) Association, Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, and Goodwill Industries International Inc., with its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Resource Recycling Systems will drive the dissemination and analysis of the consumer survey together with New York State Center for Sustainable Materials Management and Syracuse University Center for Sustainable Community Solutions, and execute the textile composition analysis using Matoha’s near infrared devices with advisory support from Circle Economy.

Demonstrating the importance of pre-competitive collaboration in tackling the industry’s biggest challenges, lululemon joins Eastman, H&M and Nordstrom as key project partners, together with Fashion for Good corporate partners adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co., and Target. Adidas' lead sponsorship ensures a deeper analysis of USA textile waste infrastructure and the identification of valuable opportunities for advancement.

In the USA, textile waste is the fastest-growing segment of the country's waste stream, with 85% of discarded textiles ending up in landfills*. Understanding the composition of material, volume and location of used textiles is crucial for capturing them and sorting them for the best and highest quality end use. Moreover, the range of national and regional geographies within the Sorting for Circularity project series enables for nuanced cross-country comparisons - revealing differences in the textile waste generated and infrastructure required.

Sorting for Circularity, a framework co-developed by Fashion for Good and Circle Economy, aims to (re)capture textile waste by unlocking the feedstock potential for recycling, expedite the implementation of game changing automated sorting technologies such as near-infrared spectroscopy and advanced textile-to-textile recycling, and drive circularity within the fashion value chain. The project builds on the success of Sorting for Circularity Europe and India, which revealed insights on material composition, volume, and location of used textiles and provided a solid foundation to accelerate textile recycling in those respective geographical locations.

*United States Environmental Protection Agency (2019). National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling.

The fully booked international denim trade show BLUEZONE will celebrate its anniversary. More than 100 denim and sportswear specialists will transform Munich's Zenith area into a blue hotspot on this summer's early July date, which has been repositioned for the first time. Parallel to MUNICH FABRIC START and THE SOURCE and with a supporting program that is as full to the brim as it is relevant, the area on Munich's Lilienthalallee will become the hub of the international fashion community.

2023 is not only BLUEZONE's anniversary year: this summer marks the 150th anniversary of the patenting of jeans, Orta celebrates its 70th birthday in 2023 and denim icon Ruedi Karrer celebrates the 50th of his "The Jeans Museum" in Zurich. Vicunha is celebrating its 55th birthday. BLUEZONE therefore pays tribute to denim in all its facets. CONNEXXION is the appropriate leitmotif of the upcoming event.

"We have a line-up that will almost break the two days: in addition to internationally relevant and well-known exhibitors such as Calik, Denim Authority, Isko, Kurabo, Naveena Denim, NDL, Orta, Royo, Saitex and Sharabati among many others, we will have a 360° degree denim experience park in the completely booked Zenith Area", says Frank Junker, Creative Director & Partner, Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH. What visitors can expect here, among other things: two seminar sessions by the Transformers Foundation as well as panels and talks with Women in Denim, Mohsin Sajid and The 5 Denim Senses by AMD Düsseldorf, plus installations such as the photo exhibition "The World's best Denim Fades" by Bryan Szabo, founder of the Indigo Invitational, the exhibition by designer Ksenia Schnaider and a special presentation by "The Jeans Museum" Zurich, through which Ruedi Karrer himself will give guided tours.

For the first time, BLUEZONE will take place this summer on the new, earlier dates of July 18 and 19 and not at the end of August / beginning of September as in the past. With this step forward in terms of dates, MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE are reacting to changed order and collection rhythms and will position themselves in the future at the beginning of the purchasing and sourcing phase.

To this end, the exclusive VIEW Premium Selection, also organized by Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH, will move to the previous MFS date and on September 13 and 14 - then for the first time also on the Zenith grounds - will offer the market an additional, later ordering opportunity as RE:VIEW.

As a global provider of sustainable woodfibre products, Sappi will be showcasing its solutions for the garment industry under the theme “Fashion meets Forest” at ITMA 2023 – with sublimation papers and its dissolving wood pulp, used for the production of garment fibres under the “Verve” brand name.

How can the woodfibre industry support a more sustainable garments market? Sappi is eager to answer this question at the ITMA and has created a “knowledge trail” for visitors to explore under the motto “Fashion meets Forest”. Visitors to the stand can follow the journey from wood via cellulose and fibre to the finished yarn and the printed garment.

Sublimation papers: Expanded production capacity in Carmignano
Sappi’s Transjet sublimation papers stand for fast, uniform ink transfer and minimal ink consumption. As a premium supplier, Sappi is constantly striving to meet its customers’ needs. So, at this year’s ITMA, various sublimation papers with optimised qualitative properties will be on show.

Sappi maintains the high quality of its coated Transjet and uncoated Basejet sublimation papers by regularly investing in new, state-of-the-art technologies. At the end of April, a new warehouse has been inaugurated at the Carmignano mill in Italy. In the next month’s, Sappi will further invest in two new converting machines with a width of 1.9 meters and 3.2 meters as well as in a fully automated packaging line. All the investments will support the company’s vision of having a complete in-house solution for the sublimation industry, have a positive impact on CO2 emission, satisfy the increased demand of their customers as well as further improve lead times.
 
“Verve” dissolving wood pulp for high-quality textiles
Sappi will also be showcasing its dissolving pulp (DP) brand “Verve”. DP provides the feedstock raw material toward producing rayon fibres such as Lyocell and viscose and further into yarns and fabrics. Textiles produced from wood based cellulosic fibres are noted for their breathability, colour fastness, softness, drape, absorbency and biodegradability. In addition to the garment industry, dissolving pulp is also used in various household and pharmaceutical products.

Source Fashion returns to London Olympia on 16-18th July, more than doubling in size and welcoming over 300 exhibitors from around the world.

Source Fashion offers a platform for decision-makers in buying, sourcing and procurement, with the reassurance of knowing that every exhibitor has been audited to ensure sustainability and transparency remains at the heart of their business model. The February launch show welcomed over 130 manufacturers from 20 countries including the UK, Peru, Cambodia, Pakistan, Turkey, China, India, Portugal, Hong Kong, Italy, and Greece, attracting nearly 5,000 visitors from leading retailers and brands including John Lewis, M&S, Sainsbury’s, Tesco, All Saints, Asos, Ted Baker, Bella Freud, FILA, Fred Perry, Matalan, Monsoon, Stitch Fix, Urban Outfitters, Very Group, and many more.

Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing of Source Fashion; “We couldn't have asked for a better first show. Leading retailers attended keen to source new, and crucially audited, producers and manufacturers. We champion responsibility, and sustainability isn’t just an addition to our show, it is our core value. We unite manufacturers practicing environmental, transparent, and fair-trade methods, with buyers looking to source sustainably.

“Our next show will be even bigger and better – we have already doubled the size of our floorplan for July and have been overwhelmed by the interest from both exhibitors and visitors. The global sustainability market is expected to grow by 24% annually in the next seven years according to Meta, which means now more than ever, brands are on the hunt for new sustainable manufacturers and suppliers to source from and the growth rate is staggering for Source Fashion. It is going to be firmly established as a significant platform for responsible sourcing by its second show.”

With a current booking level of almost 90% for the international fabric trade show MUNICH FABRIC START, KEYHOUSE, THE SOURCE and BLUEZONE, Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH is starting the new season for Autumn.Winter 24/25 on a strong footing. From the organisers' point of view, the main reason for the high level of acceptance is the rebalancing of the July dates.

The international fabric trade show MUNICH FABRIC START (18 to 20 July), the innovation hub KEYHOUSE, theb one-stop sourcing platform THE SOURCE and the international denim trade show BLUEZONE (18 and 19 July) will move ahead and at the same time increase their relevance in the international trade show scene. For a large part of the visitors, the earlier date is closer to the collection rhythms and offers more time for further developments.

What's new?
Due to the early date of MUNICH FABRIC START and BLUEZONE, the Munich trade show duo with KEYHOUSE and THE SOURCE formats will function even more strongly as an impulse generator and leading international event. The Munich location will also be strengthened by the relocation of the DMI Fashion Day from Düsseldorf to the Bavarian capital. The first DMI FASHION DAY LIVE will take place the day before the next MUNICH FABRIC START at the MOC.

The course will also be set anew in September: The date, which remains important for the industry, will in future be occupied by reVIEW - the new format of the VIEW PREMIUM SELECTION for follow-ups and trends as well as new market developments. On an area of around 2,500 square metres, the first reVIEW Autumn.Winter 24/25 will be held on 13 and 14 September 2023 on the Zenith grounds in Motorworld.

Fashion for Good welcomes twelve new start-ups to its Global Platform. The selected Innovators will participate in a nine-month innovation programme with bespoke support to validate their technologies in preparation for implementation across the fashion value chain.

The selected innovators represent technologies across Raw Materials, Processing, Traceability & Transparency, Circular Business Models and End of Use.

The selected innovators joining the Fashion for Good 2023 Innovation Programme are: Virent, Inc., ZimoChem Inc, Polybion, Saltico Ltd, Lamoral Coatings B.V., CleanKore LLC, RESPONSIBLE, Qingdao Amino Material Technology Co., Ltd.,Protein Evolution, Inc., DePoly, Ioncell Oy, and SATMA CE.

The third edition of IFCO Istanbul Fashion Connection took place from 8 to 11 February 2023. At the largest IFCO to date, 588 exhibitors in a total of 9 halls at the Istanbul Expo Center met more than 10,000 international trade visitors from 134 countries such as Brazil, Canada, Chile, Colombia, Germany, Malaysia, Mexico, Nigeria, Panama, Saudi Arabia, South Africa, South Korea, Thailand, UK, United Arab Emirates. 45% of the visitors were from 134 countries and 55% of visitors were domestic. The largest group of foreign visitors came from Asia (33%), Middle East (33%), Europe (19%) and Africa (13%).

Divided into clear cut exhibition segments on a total of 100,000 sqm of exhibition space brands and manufacturers showed the latest collections from the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, sportswear, evening and weddingwear, lingerie, hosiery, leather & furs.

In the new high-quality designer area The CORE İSTANBUL, internationally renowned designers from Istanbul Fashion Week presented their exciting and creative designs.
“The Core is the premier platform that connects local fashion designers with the international fashion market. Our mission is to showcase the work of Istanbul´s talented designers who are dedicated to creating unique and innovative fashion designs while embracing conscious and sustainable practices.”, says Günes Güner, curator of The Core.

Even more design power was on display at the KOZA Design Competition for young fashion creators. IMA Istanbul Moda Akademisi was responsible for the design of the IMA LAB trend zone at IFCO. In the creative space, the trends and themes of the coming season were taken up and presented in a visually elaborate way. Euphoric Recall encompasses colourful, playful 70's vibes, Metasphere describes the return of glitter and metallic with a futuristic touch. The New Gen area featured pieces by up-and-coming designers of the next generation.

In two separate halls, LinExpo gave an overview of lingerie and hosiery. As a part of IFCO 145 manufacturers presented themselves here.

A large selection of high-quality bridal and evening dresses and suits were shown in the FashionIST area.

In the IFCO Sourcing area, especially designed for production, trade visitors networked directly with international production companies such as Bozkurt, Bilce Tekstil, Gelişim, Karar, Cemsel, Bozpa, Demezoğlu, Zevigas and more.

The next IFCO is scheduled from August 9 to 11, 2023.

• Oerlikon takes leadership position in luxury metalware

Oerlikon has successfully closed the acquisition of Riri, following the signing of the agreement announced on December 16, 2022.

Riri is a provider of coated metal accessories for the luxury fashion industry. This deal is the strategic next step to complement Oerlikon’s acquisition of Coeurdor in 2021. It expands Oerlikon’s foothold in the luxury market and together creates a leading platform in luxury metalware. As the demand for PVD coatings grows, Oerlikon’s PVD technologies that provide environmentally friendly solutions will accelerate the shift of the luxury goods industry to greener PVD technology.

Renato Usoni, CEO of Riri, will lead the newly formed luxury business unit of Oerlikon as President Oerlikon Luxury. Riri will operate as a separate business within the Surface Solutions division. Its zippers and buttons will continue to use the Riri and Cobrax brands on individual products. Oerlikon will consolidate Riri as of March 1, 2023.

• Im „The Paradise Now“ wurde Designerin Annette Görtz mit dem Modebusiness Award ausgezeichnet
• Die Landeshauptstadt ehrte gemeinsam mit dem Fashion Net Düsseldorf zum achten Mal nationale Einflussgrößen aus der Mode
• Oberbürgermeister Dr. Stephan Keller begrüßte Gäste aus der Modebranche

In Düsseldorf wurde Annette Görtz, eine der international bekanntesten, deutschen Designerinnen und Modeunternehmer:innen, am 29. Januar für ihren Einfluss auf die Modewirtschaft Deutschlands mit dem Mode Business Award ausgezeichnet. Unter dem Motto „Next Generation“ empfingen Oberbürgermeister Dr. Stephan Keller und Angelika Firnrohr, Geschäftsführerin des Fashion Net rund 160 nationale und internationale Gäste zur festlichen Verleihung in Düsseldorfs In-Location „The Paradise Now“. Die vom Verein Fashion Net Düsseldorf im Jahr 2015 entwickelte Auszeichnung ehrt Impulsgeber:innen des Fashion Business, die sich durch ihr Engagement in der nordrhein-westfälischen Hauptstadt hervorgehoben haben. Christiane Arp, ehemalige VOGUE-Chefredakteurin, Vorstandsvorsitzende des Fashion Council Germany und langjährige Wegbegleiterin von Annette Görtz, hielt die Laudatio – nicht nur auf die Designerin selbst, sondern auf ihre gesamte Familie.

Rückenwind für Mode in Düsseldorf
„Der Modebusiness Award geht in diesem Jahr an Annette Görtz, die nicht nur den Orderstandort maßgeblich geprägt hat, sondern auch eine internationale Einflussgröße in der Mode ist. So wie Düsseldorf und Mode Hand in Hand gehen, so untrennbar ist auch die Modeunternehmerin mit der Landeshauptstadt verbunden: Ob im Showroom oder auf der Königsallee – ihr Bekenntnis und ihre Begeisterung für den Standort Düsseldorf sind ausschlaggebend für die Ehrung mit dem Modebusiness Award Düsseldorf 2023“, verkündet Oberbürgermeister Dr. Stephan Keller zur Auszeichnung der Designerin, die ihre Mode bereits in einer spektakulären Schau mit einem Laufsteg über Wasser in der Neusser Langen Foundation inszenierte.

Zwei Generationen – eine Modemarke
Für Annette Görtz ist der Mode Business Award mehr als nur eine Auszeichnung ihres gleichnamigen Labels. Der Preis ehrt den Familienzusammenhalt und ihre gemeinsame Mission, die das Unternehmen seit drei Jahrzehnten zu den renommiertesten Modemarken – Made in Germany – macht. Nach ihrem Diplom an der Fachhochschule Bielefeld machte sich die studierte Designerin 1984 selbstständig, später baute sie die Marke mit ihrem Mann Hans-Jörg Welsch zu einem international bekannten Luxuslabel auf, das seither eine avantgardistische und unverwechselbare Handschrift trägt. Ihr gemeinsamer Sohn, der 31-Jährige Maximilian Welsch, ist Absolvent der Königlichen Akademie für Mode in Antwerpen und führt seit 2021 den Betrieb mit Unterstützung seines Teams und der Familie weitestgehend selbstständig.

Heute, mit Vertretungen in Amsterdam, London, Zürich, Barcelona, New York und Sydney, sei Düsseldorf immer noch ihre Basis, sagt Annette Görtz – getreu ihrem Schaffensmotto „sich treu bleiben.“ Repräsentative Showrooms, zuerst die alte Schokoladenfabrik an der Kaiserswerther Str. und aktuelle die Gründerzeitvilla direkt an der Cecilienallee unterstreichen den Anspruch des Labels. Im eigenen Retail-Store MILIAN auf der Königsallee, verkauft die Unternehmerfamilie in bestem Markenumfeld ihre eigene Brand, aber auch internationale Labels wie Dries van Noten, Issey Miyake, Jil Sander oder Maison Margiela.

• Style3D is sole shareholder of Assyst
• Integration of both product lines from 3D design to production
• Assyst remains independent within Style3D

Assyst GmbH is as of now part of Style3D. The German fashion technology market leader and the leading 3D software company are joining forces. For Assyst customers and partners nothing will change.
 
Die Assyst GmbH betreibt ihre Geschäfte weiterhin eigenständig, entwickelt alle ihre Produkte weiter und strebt mit Style3D eine gemeinsame, durchgängige Produktwelt an. Der erste gemeinsame Auftritt des Assyst-Style3D-Teams findet bereits auf der Assyst Experience im Rahmen der Munich Fabric Start (24.-26. Januar 2023) statt.

Assyst will continue to operate its business independently and to develop, sell, and service all its existing products. Style3D and Assyst will start to integrate their products into a universal, seamless product world. The Assyst-Style3D team will make its first joint appearance already at the end of January at the Assyst Experience at Munich Fabric Start (24-26 January 2023).

Both companies are deeply rooted in apparel development and production: Style3D in Asia and Assyst in EMEA. Together, they are planning to create a global product offering for producers and brands that covers the entire apparel value chain from development to production and the various sales touchpoints.

Starting point will be the integration of the flagship products of both companies – Style3D and Assyst.CAD. Style3D is currently the most advanced 3D fashion design software with a high growth rate globally. While Assyst is market leader with its 2D CAD technology in Germany, Austria, Italy and Switzerland and offers a seamless software portfolio from 2D and 3D CAD to production (Automarker) and to all sales touchpoints.

Major driver of the merger is the companies’ complimentary technology offering and the vision to create a seamless digital process from providing digital fabric and accessories up to the realization of products.

The merger also strengthens Assyst's competitive position in the 3D design sector. Style3D, in turn, will benefit from Assyst's expertise in the development, CAD and digital simulation of apparel products and the access to the international market.

Looking ahead to the future, both parties will offer 2D-based & 3D-based one-stop solutions for business clients leveraging on their global tech base and complementary serviceable resource dominance. On January 24-26, the Assyst-Style3D team will meet clients and present its products at the Assyst Experience at Munich Fabric Start.