From the Sector

The partnership between Filo and C.L.A.S.S., the international eco-hub founded by Giusy Bettoni, is renewed once again .
 
At the 63rd edition of Filo, “Sustainability from A to Z” — the service created by Filo in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. and aimed at companies that want to navigate the complex world of sustainability — chooses to focus its showcase on the concept of responsible innovation and the means to expand its knowledge through technical insights, case histories, and direct testimonies. The ultimate goal, shared by Filo and C.L.A.S.S., is to support the industry and the market in making conscious choices that align with the evolving market landscape. In this regard, the proposals that C.L.A.S.S. brings to Filo as part of “Sustainability from A to Z” are closely linked to the debates and discussions taking place in the “Dialoghi di Confronto”, since they provide an additional opportunity for further insight.
 
In the space dedicated to C.L.A.S.S. at the 63rd edition of Filo, projects and solutions implemented by organizations and companies selected by C.L.A.S.S. will be showcased. This season, the focus will be on “green chemistry” and the role of “advanced” natural fibers, particularly in relation to cotton and linen. For the two fibers, companies have often adopted comprehensive innovation strategies, leading to what we define as “advanced” productions, where traceability processes have become an essential requirement.
 
In the C.L.A.S.S. space at Filo63, Cotton is represented by Supima®, a high-quality cotton grown in the United States, accounting for less than 1% of global cotton production. What makes it special compared to other types of cotton is its extra-long staple, which provides superior strength, softness, and long-lasting colour retention. To ensure the authenticity and traceability of its cotton, Supima® has introduced the AQRe™ Project (Authenticated Quality and Responsible Engagement). This cutting-edge system replaces the previous licensing program, offering a blockchain-based digital platform in collaboration with TextileGenesis™, allowing real-time monitoring of the entire supply chain. Additionally, Supima® partners with Oritain™ to conduct forensic testing, verifying the cotton’s origin at every stage of production. This advanced combination of technologies guarantees that every product bearing the SUPIMA® brand is made from high-quality American-grown cotton, meeting the market’s increasing demand for transparency and sustainability.
 
Regarding Linen, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp will be present, the European agro-industrial organization that brings together all actors in the European Flax and Hemp supply chain starting from its fields origin.  2025 is the year of acceleration its sustainable transformation trajectory from the field to the finished product. New developments to be seen:  

• Evolution of its Flax- Linen certifications  
• Launch of a new digital Flax-Linen traceability platform: Flax-Linen traceability platform. European Certified fibres to Retaildeveloped in cooperation with   TextileGenesis - Lectra and set to launch in May 2025. This innovative blockchain-based digital tool enables tracking at every stage of production, ensuring authenticity and full transparency throughout the entire supply chain
• Publication of datasets and development of a specific B2B tool for calculating environmental footprint
• Scientific validation of the functional properties of Flax-Linen
• New Flax-Linen & Hemp sourcing platform for innovative materials and textile & technical solutions

At the C.L.A.S.S. space an Italian story about “green chemistry” will showcase featuring REVECOL® by ERCA Textile Chemical Solutions. REVECOL ® is a revolutionary 100% Made in Italy innovation that utilizes critical waste materials, such as exhausted vegetable cooking oil, transforming it into a next-generation line of safe, certified, high-performance, and competitive chemical auxiliaries designed for the entire textile industry. This unique approach allows for a CO₂ emissions reduction of up to 72% compared to traditional chemistry, setting a new industry standard. The range includes 18 auxiliaries certified according to GRS, RCS, ZDHC, bluesign®, and GOTS, ensuring high performance with a reduced environmental impact. REVECOL® is the missing certified end-to-end element that can drive sustainability, circularity, and performance in the fashion creation process, meeting the needs of a market increasingly focused on traceability and environmental responsibility.
 
Throughout Filo63, the C.L.A.S.S. team will be available to explore these innovations in depth with companies and professionals eager to gain insight into the three pioneering realities redefining sustainability, traceability, and innovation in the textile sector.

Utilizing renewable materials* and formaldehyde-free chemistries, the industry-first Archroma NTR Printing System combines newly created pigment black and customized auxiliaries for enhanced sustainability, comfort and durability
 
Archroma, a company in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, introduced the NTR Printing System to make bio-based pigment printing commercially possible for the first time. Based on renewable raw materials and designed for safer chemistry, it helps apparel and textile brands reduce their environmental footprint while producing brilliant black shades on garments that deliver both comfort and durability.

Bio-based pigment printing is an emerging technology that is attracting major interest from brands that want to use pigments derived from natural sources, such as plants, in the production of environmentally conscious textiles. Until now, however, bio-based pigments have not delivered color fastness that is comparable to synthetic pigments, and color quality and production performance have not been sufficient to support commercial-scale production.

Archroma’s NTR Printing System is the first to utilize renewable feedstock across pigment dispersion, binder and fixing agent. Crucially, it ensures good wet-rubbing and dry-rubbing fastness, with outstanding softness on all kinds of fabrics. Furthermore, it is suitable for most popular application technologies, including printing, coating and continuous pigment dyeing, with outstanding runnability for production efficiency.

“These properties make the new NTR Printing System ideal for the highly competitive denim market, where sustainability, comfort and durability are important; for knits, where very soft handfeel is essential; and on babywear, where both exceptional softness and safety are required,” Joaquin Femat, Market Segment Director for Printing, Archroma, said.

The result of more than two years of research and development, the innovative new NTR Printing System required Archroma to create customized binding and fixing agents to ensure fastness for the pigment black dispersion comparable to current petroleum-based printing systems. All three printing elements are partially based on renewable feedstock to reduce reliance on non-renewable petrochemicals. Archroma also developed the new system to avoid toxic input streams and impurities, including formaldehyde. Two successful bulk trials were conducted with Textprint S. A. and Jeanologia.

The NTR printing system comprises the following highly efficient and robust printing elements:

• PRINTOFIX® BLACK NTR-TF: A non-gelling pigment black with 79% renewable carbon content*, designed for use in textile applications with no impact on fastness levels.
• HELIZARIN® NTR-SS: A formaldehyde-free super-soft binder with 40% renewable carbon content, designed to ensure very good overall fastness levels.
• LUPRINTOL® FIXING AGENT NTR-HF: A formaldehyde-free fixing agent with 40% renewable carbon content**, designed for high wet fastness in rubbing and laundry.

All three elements are currently being evaluated for compliance with globally accepted standards like bluesign®, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). The system also supports major industry restricted substances list (RSL) requirements.

Archroma introduces COLOR MANAGEMENT+, an enhanced color design and development solution that helps textile and fashion brands and mills work together for improved economic and environmental sustainability.

Archroma COLOR MANAGEMENT+ incorporates the industry’s largest off-the-shelf color atlas selection, design tools and customized services for fast color selection and creation. It combines these with engineered color standards created with Archroma’s SUPER SYSTEMS+ for reduced environmental impact and consistent and accurate color reproduction.

With these end-to-end capabilities, brands and designers can focus on their color inspiration and on the required functionality and sustainability for their end article, with the assurance that their inspiration can be precisely communicated and efficiently executed at the mill.

Within COLOR MANAGEMENT+, the Color Atlas by Archroma® offers access to a collection of more than 5,700 unique colors for cotton, polyester and blends, both as a physical library and searchable online library. Designers also have the option to create custom colors.

Ahievability criteria are available for each color standard, whether in the Color Atlas or provided as an Engineered Color, at the selection phase. This includes information about the technical and economic feasibility of the selected color, along with a commitment to sustainability build on the foundation of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) Level 3.

The COLOR MANAGEMENT+ color standards provide clear color communication to mill colorists, textile technologists and quality control specialists, helping them deliver the right color faster and achieving reproducible colors across countries and mills. Clear communications can also eliminate excessive lab dipping, shorten approval times and improve first-time-approval rates.

The color standards in COLOR MANAGEMENT+ are created with Archroma’s SUPER SYSTEMS+ solutions for bulk production in mind. Offering end article-specific processing solutions, durable colors and intelligent effects, the SUPER SYSTEMS+ suite allows brands to achieve measurable environmental impact, eliminate harmful or regulated chemicals, and add value and longevity to the end product.

The solution is further supported Archroma’s ONE WAY+ Impact Calculator and Sustainability Improvement Program (SIP), and SAFE EDGE+ compliance-data platform. Global technical support is provided to help the supply chain deliver the right colors with consistency and reduced environmental impact.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel Europe (Freudenberg) has reached a further sustainability milestone: The new Freudenberg Apparel Competence Center in Sant’Omero, Italy, successfully completed the 4sustainability® Chemical Management protocol (4s CHEM) recently and reached the Advanced Level. The aim of the protocol is to progressively eliminate toxic and hazardous chemicals and related risks throughout the production process.

Competence center for interlinings
Freudenberg opened its Apparel Competence Center in Sant’Omero in May 2023. The factory in Italy is an innovative competence center that coats and finishes nonwoven, woven and weft interlinings for apparel customers in Europe.
Freudenberg has now taken the next logical step: as part of a comprehensive audit, the Apparel Competence Center has implemented ZDHC guidelines in its production process. To achieve this, Freudenberg called in the experts from Process Factory, a consultancy that specializes in sustainability topics. With their support, Freudenberg’s Sant’Omero site has reached the Advanced level of the 4sustainability® Chemical Management protocol (4s CHEM), in line with the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Program.
Implementation is controlled annually based on this protocol and offers companies in the fashion industry a degree of reliability. It guarantees structured, fully transparent procedures, regular monitoring, and continuous control of Freudenberg’s production processes.  

ZDHC
By demonstrating its rejection of environmentally harmful chemicals and substances, the Apparel Competence Center shows that Freudenberg gives top priority to taking responsibility for people and the environment.
The aim of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Foundation and its globally recognized Roadmap to Zero Program is to eliminate the release of toxic chemicals in the textile and fashion industry’s supply chain based on the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL).
By applying the 4s CHEM protocol, the production site in Sant’Omero is sending a clear signal to the fashion industry that Freudenberg products meet the highest quality standards and are also safe and environmentally friendly.

Stahl has achieved Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) MRSL 3.1 Gateway certification for 2,151 products in its portfolio. This achievement underlines Stahl’s ongoing commitment to the ZDHC mission of achieving high standards for sustainable chemical management.

ZDHC certification enables companies working in the footwear, apparel and accessories value chains to demonstrate their commitment to responsible chemical management, with the ultimate goal being zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. Level 3 certification represents the highest level of conformity with the ZDHC certification programme. To achieve this, Stahl’s formulated chemical products and raw materials were verified and tested against ZDHC’s latest Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL 3.1) by Eurofins | Chem-MAP®. The Chem-MAP® programme was also used to audit the chemical management and stewardship processes at three of Stahl’s manufacturing sites.

In its latest evaluation, adidas ranked the suppliers of chemical products and auxiliaries used in the manufacture of its products. With 98 % ZDHC Level 3 auxiliaries and colorants in its portfolio CHT is supplier of choice in this ranking. On the one hand, this pays off the innovative strength of CHT's research and development, and on the other hand, it shows that CHT is the preferred partner for the sustainable chemical treatment of certifiable brand products.

CHT invests in sustainable textile value chains
In 2022, the CHT Group generated 77 % of its total sales with sustainably classified products. The company's own research and development is working ceaselessly to make the entire textile value chain more sustainable.
Customers from the manufacturing textile industry benefit from CHT’s know-how and technical expertise in machine application.

CHT and textile standards
In this regard, CHT has already been active as a ZDHC Contributor since 2019 with a comprehensive range of more than 2200 certified products. Of these, 70 % are textile auxiliaries and 30 % are dyes in the portfolio that are certified to Level 3 ZDHC, bluesign® or C2C standards.
CHT supports its customers and business partners and invests in compliance and regulatory measures. Especially in the textile sector, the group of companies cooperates with all renowned standards and labels. Among others bluesign®, C2C or GOTS. Especially in the context of the ZDHC program, CHT is one of the global leaders. More than 2200 products certified by CHT currently reach LEVEL 3, the highest possible level for safe textile chemistry. It is particularly noteworthy that this includes textile auxiliaries (70 %) as well as dyes and pigments (30 %).

CHT Group is involved in several ZDHC task teams and is also a member of the ZDHC internal Chemical Industry Advisory Group (CIAG).

The international OEKO-TEX® Association, offering collaborative solutions for partners in the textile and leather industry, has once again recorded positive business development. Overall, OEKO-TEX® issued more than 43,000 certificates and labels between July 1, 2022, and June 30, 2023 - an increase of 21% compared to the previous financial year. The MADE IN GREEN product label recorded the strongest growth of 52%. OEKO-TEX® continues to drive urgently needed change through cooperation and joint action - with their services and at the organizational level.

For their two new certifications, OEKO-TEX® focused on cooperation with numerous parties along the global supply chain. Launched in November 2022, OEKO-TEX® RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS addresses the increasing global expectations and due diligence requirements. The tool and certification supports textile and leather companies in preventing negative effects from their own business operations, supply chains and broader business relationships. Companies working with OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON benefit from a global network of certified companies to facilitate sourcing of chemicals, materials and business partners - from cultivation to finished product.

At the organisational level, OEKO-TEX® is focusing on partnerships with multi-stakeholder initiatives to include as many different perspectives as possible and allow all parties to benefit. Working with ZDHC to promote sustainable chemical management and becoming an ISEAL community member are just two of many collaborations for OEKO-TEX®, which is striving to address the industry's most pressing challenges.

Meanwhile, the Association’s core business advances. For example, based on industry developments and scientific findings, OEKO-TEX® issued a general ban on the use of per- and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS/PFC) in textiles, leather and shoes certified by STANDARD 100, ORGANIC COTTON, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT. OEKO-TEX® also surpassed the milestone of 1,000 STeP certified production facilities. OEKO-TEX® is in a strong position to continue its work - enabling the industry and consumers to make more responsible decisions through partnership and education.

REVECOL® (Recycled Vegetable Cooking Oil) represents a new generation of textile chemical auxiliaries, which are high-performing and obtained from vegetable exhausted cooking oil.

Chemical auxiliaries play a crucial role in several stages of the textile production cycle, from material preparation to dyeing and finishing, but represent a complex challenge from the point of view of reducing environmental impact. Herein lies the revolutionary aspect of REVECOL® by ERCA: for the first time, not just one product, but a complete range of auxiliary chemicals is available that meets the criteria of circularity.

The result of ERCA's continuous research, REVECOL® are in fact born from critical waste materials (exhausted vegetable oils), which, thanks to an environmentally and safety-friendly manufacturing process, are transformed into a line of innovative chemical auxiliaries destined for the entire textile industry and its various applications: from underwear to home textiles.

EVECOL® by ERCA has obtained several certifications – GRS, RCS, listed into ZDHC Chemical Gateway, bluesign® and GOTS, and are also finalizing the third-party certified PCF (Product Carbon Footprint), - as well as various international recognitions – first prize RESPONSIBLE CARE®, in Italy, from Federchimica, inclusion in the BAT (Best Available Techniques) document from the European Community.

HeiQ takes advantage of its presence at ISPO Munich 2022, 28th-30th of November, to launch HeiQ Mint, the new proprietary odor control technology. It is plant-based and designed to make textiles smell fresh even if we use them repeatedly, avoiding the need for frequent washes, thus enabling to save water and energy.

HeiQ Fresh MNT-01, under the HeiQ Mint product family, jointly developed with Patagonia, addresses body odors on textiles and regenerates at every wash, with superior efficiency and durability that meets most end-use performance requirements, while keeping all the fabric properties such as breathability, hand feel, or wicking. This textile technology is OEKO-TEX® suited, bluesign approved, and ZDHC compliant, with a USDA bio-preferred certification in progress.

The product development tests were highly demanding, with HeiQ Mint standing out in comparison to the other two tested solutions. According to Laura Hoch, Patagonia’s Materials Innovation Engineer, “out of all the anti-odor technologies we tested, HeiQ Mint provided the highest odor control performance, with the added benefit of being plant-based. This innovation enables Patagonia to deliver our customers high-performing products made with the best available chemistry.”

Another advantage of HeiQ Mint is the ability to be applied and marketed worldwide, without the need for biocidal declaration on product labels, since it is based on a blend of essential mint oils and naturally derived deodorizing ingredients. HeiQ Mint is just Fresh by Nature.

It is ideal for next-to-skin products like sports apparel, underwear, linings, casual and business wear but also home textiles such as bed linen, pillow fabrics, or mattress textiles, both on cellulosic and synthetic fibers.

Huntsman Textile Effects has released PHOBOTEX® R-ACE, a PFC-free durable water repellent (DWR) that makes it possible for mills and brands to deliver high-performance outdoor and extreme sports apparel and everyday wear while meeting stringent environmental standards and optimizing production flow.

PHOBOTEX® R-ACE delivers excellent water repellence on all types of fibers. In addition to its remarkable performance on synthetic fibers and blends, PHOBOTEX® R-ACE offers compatibility with resin finishing to ensure even application with unmatchable performance on cellulosic fibers. It offers rain and splash protection for garments that are water repellent and windproof, even under toughest conditions. Additionally, it repels everyday stains, such as mud, coffee, ketchup and juice, so that garments stay cleaner for longer. Textiles treated with PHOBOTEX® R-ACE are breathable, retain their soft handle and continue to look good and perform well through repeated laundering and drying.

PHOBOTEX® R-ACE meets current and upcoming industry standards. The new DWR is PFC-free and formaldehyde-free. It meets the bluesign® criteria (imminent approval pending) and will be published on the ZDHC Gateway with Conformance Level 3, and suitable for STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certified textile products. It also meets new bluesign® restrictions on 2-Butanone oxime in chemical products, which will come into effect in June 2022.