From the Sector

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has updated its report on Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge with new topics in line with the European Union’s Competitiveness Compass and the Clean Industrial Deal. Specific scientific research is needed to better protect people and the environment from hazardous chemicals and to develop balanced and effective regulatory measures.

The report introduces new topics to reflect ECHA’s growing responsibilities. It also covers emerging topics in waste and recycling that aim to support circularity and enhance Europe’s industrial competitiveness. 

For example, more specific research is needed on:  

• chemical emissions and exposure from the waste stage of materials to help create more accurate emission estimates to avoid potentially over-conservative regulatory measures;
• recycled non-fossil fuel resources, to improve our understanding of their hazards and support EU policies that aim to reduce pollution and promote sustainable growth; and
• the valuing of environmental impacts to assess the effectiveness and proportionality of chemicals regulation and specific regulatory actions under, for example, REACH and the Batteries Regulation.

Dr Sharon McGuinness, ECHA’s Executive Director, said: 
“Since ECHA’s first report in 2023, we have seen important, regulatory-relevant scientific research get underway. For example, new research has been initiated on developing analytical methods to detect and measure PFAS for use by enforcement authorities and on generating monitoring data on a specific phthalate that is a chemical of concern.   

“Our updated report reflects the European Commission’s Clean Industry Deal and Competitiveness Compass, by inviting more specific research to support the circular economy and innovation in Europe.”

Other research needs added to the report include developing better methods to monitor chemicals in water environments, such as rivers, lakes, and oceans, and how chemicals can contaminate drinking water from materials that come into contact with it.

Background
The Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge report is part of an evolving research and development agenda aiming to support and inspire the research community. The list of research needs is not exhaustive. The report reflects ECHA’s current priorities, including the Agency’s new tasks. It was originally developed to support the work under the Partnership for the assessment of risk from chemicals (PARC). 

PARC is a seven-year EU wide research and innovation programme under Horizon Europe which aims to advance research, share knowledge and improve skills in chemical regulatory risk assessment.

ECHA’s role in PARC is to ensure that the funded scientific research addresses current regulatory challenges related to chemical risk assessment and adds value to the EU’s regulatory processes.

Introducing PET fibers and filament yarns made solely from discard textile waste, lower carbon bio-fibers, and more, Indorama Ventures expands dejaTM portfolio to boost textile industry sustainability:
The company expands its fiber and filament yarn portfolio called dejaTM to boost sustainability. The goal is to actively drive circularity and decarbonization efforts in the global textile industry and to prepare for supporting the upcoming European Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR).

Three key offerings add to the company’s deja portfolio, addressing customers’ main sustainability challenges:

1. On-demand solutions for textile circularity, providing deja PET fibers and filament yarns made solely from enhanced recycled textile waste that was being discarded. Products available on customers’ request are high-tenacity yarns and cords for technical applications like airbags and seat belts, as well as fibers and filament yarns for lifestyle applications, such as apparel and home textiles. Customers interested to drive circularity and reduce greenhouse gas emissions, while keeping performance equal to standard solutions, are encouraged to request more information at enquiry.fibers@indorama.net.
2. deja Bio: Solutions to help customers reduce their carbon footprint. Thanks to its fully integrated, in-house PET supply chain, Indorama Ventures can deliver high-performing deja PET yarns out of Europe and Asia that have a substantially reduced carbon footprint. All of them comply with the accounting methodology of the ‘Together for Sustainability’ industry initiative.

Indorama Ventures takes a mass balance approach to increase the use of renewable sources, benefitting from eleven ISCC+ (International Sustainability and Carbon Certification) certified sites across its entire business, including PTA, PET chips, fibers, and technical fabrics. The mass balance approach is a chain-of-custody method that allows manufacturers to mix sustainable and conventional inputs like renewable and fossil-based materials in a shared production system, while still allocating the environmental benefits of the sustainable inputs to a portion of the output.

High-tenacity yarns and tire cord fabrics available in the bio-based deja portfolio allow for a progressive bio-content introduction into customers’ products. Customers can benefit from avoiding or simplifying qualification procedures and receive the same performance as from fossil solutions. Further, these products can be given new life through mechanical or enhanced recycling.

1. deja Enhanced: Products that give hard-to-recycle packaging and textile waste new life. In close collaboration with like-minded partners along the value chain, Indorama Ventures is also looking at ways to convert hard-to-recycle packaging into fibers and yarns through enhanced recycling. These solutions are readily available at similar level of performance as fossil solutions. In future, these products will also be supplied with flexible proportions of reprocessed textile feedstock to accommodate customers’ circular targets.
2. Customers and brand owners are invited to take a closer look at what the expanded deja™ fibers & yarns portfolio offers during Textiles Recycling Expo on June 4-5 in Brussels, booth no. 1825. As one of the leading events dedicated to textile recycling and circularity, this expo brings together industry leaders, innovators, and decision-makers to shape the future of sustainable textiles.
3. Claire Mattelet, Global Sustainability Program Head for Indorama Ventures’ Fibers Business, says: With the expanded deja portfolio, we are turning ambition into action – empowering our customers to meet their circularity and decarbonization goals through innovative, high-performance PET fibers and yarns made from textile waste, bio-based inputs, and hard-to-recycle materials. This is how we shape the future of sustainable textiles without compromising on quality or performance.”
4. With most of the textile waste globally being incinerated or landfilled, the global fashion industry accounts for an estimated 3 to 8 percent of total greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. According to recent reports1,2, the industry’s emissions are expected to increase by about 30 percent by 2030 if no further action is taken1. In response, Indorama Ventures has set a 2030 target of 40% of recycled and bio-based feedstock of its current commodity feedstock. Taking a leading role and collaborating along the entire value chain to drive sustainable practices in the man-made fibers industry is at the core of Indorama Ventures’ commitment to shaping the future of textiles.

eVent® Fabrics, an expert in breathable waterproof, weatherproof, and windproof fabric laminates, announces the launch of its new circular fabric collection, purpose-built, plant-based, and fully recyclable for a more sustainable future without compromising performance.

Featuring 11 different laminate configurations across the eVent stormST™ and windstormST™ technology platforms, this plant-based collection is engineered for recyclability and designed to support closed-loop product systems. By utilizing monomaterial constructions, these laminate fabrics make mechanical recycling more feasible, while maintaining the trusted breathability, durability, and weather protection that outdoor brands and consumers expect from eVent.

“Circularity starts with design,” said Chad Kelly, President of eVent Fabrics. “With these stormST and windstormST fabrics, we’re giving brands the building blocks to create products that are easier to recycle at end-of-life—without sacrificing technical performance.”

The new circularity collection is a major step in eVent’s long-term sustainability strategy, addressing the industry’s growing need for performance materials that align with circular economy principles. And with the EU’s pending Ecodesign for Sustainable Product Regulations set to take effect in the coming years, apparel brands selling into the EU will be incentivized to further incorporate more circular, sustainable materials.

The stormST™ fabrics offer breathable waterproof protection with low environmental impact, making them ideal for outerwear, footwear, and accessories in active outdoor and urban use. The windstormST™ fabrics provide highly breathable windproof protection, perfect for blocking the chilling effects of the wind in dynamic conditions. All fabrics in the collection are PFAS-free, bluesign®, Oeko-Tex®, and/or GRS certified.

In response to Mali’s escalating environmental crisis, three organizations— Ayuda en Acción, Indorama Ventures, and IMG Group —have joined forces to launch ‘Bamagreen,’ a transformative recycling and reforestation project in the capital city of Bamako.

This initiative is the first under the Plastic2Prosperity program, developed through the adaPETation® network by IMG Group. The project will strengthen plastic circularity while generating tangible socio-economic benefits, particularly for vulnerable communities including conflict-displaced populations, women, and young people. This partnership aims to demonstrate how recycling not only benefits the environment but also generates socio-economic opportunities in complex settings.

Creating Jobs and Regenerating Communities
At the heart of the initiative is a commitment to inclusive development. Bamagreen will directly engage around 1,950 individuals—40% of them women—in stable, dignified employment opportunities through recycling and environmental awareness efforts. In addition, more than 100,000 people are expected to benefit from city-wide reforestation and waste education campaigns.

The program will bolster the recycling capabilities of local social enterprise ECOBUILD and introduce integrated environmental education to reduce the impact of unmanaged plastic waste in Bamako, where open dumping and deforestation are accelerating pollution and desertification.

A Shared Vision for Circular Impact
“This agreement reflects our commitment to sustainability and to creating opportunities for the most vulnerable populations,” said Jean Christophe Gerard, Regional Coordinator for the Sahel at Ayuda en Acción. “We are not only addressing an environmental problem but also providing economic opportunities for those who need them most.”

“At Indorama Ventures, we believe that waste is not just a problem—it’s a powerful opportunity,” said Yash Lohia, Executive President and Chairman of the ESG Council at Indorama Ventures, a global sustainable chemical company. “By raising awareness and investing in circular solutions like Plastic2Prosperity, we can transform environmental challenges into engines of socio-economic growth. This project in Mali shows what’s possible when we work together to regenerate communities and our planet.”

Carlota Calonje, Social Impact Manager at IMG Group, added: “Bamagreen embodies everything we aim to achieve with adaPETation®: transforming environmental challenges into opportunities to empower people and rebuild communities. This is only the beginning—we aim to scale this model to other regions where plastic is part of both the problem and the solution.”

RE&UP announced a new partnership with Marchi & Fildi to co-develop a new generation of premium recycled cotton yarns. The collaboration – currently at pre-industrial stage – combines RE&UP’s cutting-edge textile-to-textile recycling technology with Marchi & Fildi’s deep expertise in sustainable yarn development and manufacturing.

With the goal of reaching all levels of the textile value chain, the project represents a key milestone in the evolution of circular innovation. The recycled cotton fibers used in the initiative come from RE&UP’s fully integrated process, which transforms post-consumer waste into high-quality raw materials ready for industrial application.

RE&UP and Marchi & Fildi bring together a powerful blend of innovation and excellence. This collaboration is driven by a shared belief: that circularity must go hand in hand with uncompromising quality. By combining RE&UP’s breakthrough recycling technology with Marchi & Fildi’s expertise in premium yarn development, the two companies are laying the groundwork for scalable, high-performance solutions that can elevate the entire textile value chain.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals, has successfully implemented a state-of-the-art Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) technology at its Mahachai plant in Thailand. The ZLD solution was designed and built by Gradiant, a global leader in advanced water and wastewater treatment. This milestone project marks a major leap forward in water circularity, enabling the recovery of 90-95% of wastewater for reuse and the extraction of valuable minerals for industrial applications.

Archroma partnered with Gradiant to deploy a high-efficiency, membrane- and oxidation-based ZLD solution, reinforcing its commitment to responsible water management in the textile industry. Located in a water-stressed region near Bangkok, the Mahachai plant now serves as a model for sustainable textile dye production, significantly reducing reliance on local water supplies while improving environmental resilience.

As part of its broader sustainability endeavor, Archroma addresses critical challenges within the apparel and textile industry, particularly water consumption. “We believe in reducing water use in production and home laundering. We innovate to remove toxins and contaminants from our products, making wastewater treatment easier for our plants and customers,” said Dhirendra Gautam, VP Global Marketing and Strategy, Archroma. “Our goal is to require our plants to have effective water conservation facilities with special focus on water stressed areas, contributing to water conservation and helping to combat acute water scarcity worldwide.”

Since 2019, Archroma has evaluated various ZLD solutions to address growing water challenges in Thailand. Gradiant’s Counterflow Reverse Osmosis (CFRO) was selected as the preferred technology for its ability to treat diverse wastewater compositions with superior efficiency and minimal energy consumption. The modular system seamlessly integrates with the plant’s existing wastewater treatment infrastructure, maximizing desalination capacity and water recovery while reducing the plant’s environmental footprint.

In addition to CFRO, Gradiant’s Free Radical Oxidation (FRO) technology has been deployed to remove color and organics from the RO concentrate, ensuring safe discharge and meeting stringent environmental regulations. The system also enables the recovery of concentrated brine, which Archroma repurposes within the dyeing process or supplies to industry partners for applications such as resin regeneration and chlorine production, further promoting a circular economy in water and resource management.
Thailand faces mounting water stress due to climate change, extreme droughts, and aging infrastructure, making sustainable water management an urgent priority. By implementing Gradiant’s ZLD solution, Archroma significantly reduces its dependence on freshwater sources, ensuring long-term operational resilience in a resource-constrained environment.

This multi-million-dollar investment underscores Archroma’s dedication to water conservation and its broader mission to transform the textile industry through sustainable innovation. Beyond Thailand, Archroma continues to expand its ZLD initiatives globally, including its Sustainable Effluent Treatment (SET) plant in Jamshoro, Pakistan, which has been providing irrigation water to surrounding communities.

March, 5 marks the official launch of the T2T Alliance - Powering Policy for a Textile-to-Textile Future, spearheaded by recyclers Circ, Circulose, RE&UP, Syre to advocate for their sector within the EU policy framework and beyond. With the textile industry at a critical juncture, the T2T Alliance unites key stakeholders to secure their place at the heart of Europe’s circular economy policies. By bringing recyclers’ expertise to the forefront, the T2T Alliance is driving policy change that supports a thriving, resilient and truly sustainable textile industry.

Set to become the defining textile policy of 2025, the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) will introduce market-entry ecodesign requirements that mandate a significant increase in recycled textile fibers by 2028. Alongside ongoing work in the EcoDesign Forum, the Commission’s technical body is preparing ecodesign requirements and invited stakeholder feedback on its latest report. The T2T Alliance seized the opportunity to provide expert input on the development of ecodesign requirements for textile apparel through:

• Promoting T2T recycled content and recyclability as core requirements in the ESPR ecodesign requirements for textiles
• Supporting a closed-loop textile recycling approach which includes post-industrial, pre-consumer waste and post-consumer waste
• Clarifying misconceptions about the textile recycling industry in the report (for example, by debunking the assumption that allowing post-industrial waste to fulfil recycled content targets would incentivise its overproduction)
• Advocating for a wide range of verification methods for tracing recycled material.

The T2T recycling industry requires urgent strategic intervention to ensure its long-term viability. Closing the loop in the textile industry, textile-to-textile recycling is an innovative process that involves converting used or waste textiles into new textile products. While the developments on the ESPR represent a momentous milestone, the direction that policy discussions are currently taking will have detrimental effects on the growth of T2T recyclers.

Even though the perspective of T2T recyclers is essential for effective policymaking, it seemed to be underrepresented in policy discussions so far. The T2T Alliance is a force to provide policymakers with an understanding of the real-world impact of sustainability policies, holds them accountable and ensures textile circularity is a non-negotiable in EU policy. The group is facilitated by 2B Policy, a consultancy that supports businesses to navigate a regulated future by offering strategic guidance, compliance support and facilitating industry collaboration and association building. The T2T Alliance will act as a hub for advocacy, collaboration and joint action and ensure T2T recyclers’ interests are not just heard but embedded in future textile policies, in the EU and beyond.

The Alliance is committed to:

• Advocating for textile-to-textile recyclers’ perspective in EU legislation and policies.
• Supporting the development of new legal requirements mandating textile-to-textile recycled content and recyclability in new textile products in the context of the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR).
• Removing barriers that hinder the growth and scalability of the T2T industry.

The formation of the T2T Alliance marks a significant milestone in the development toward a truly circular textile economy. By uniting key stakeholders, the Alliance will advocate for textile-to-textile recyclers to receive the necessary recognition in the policy ecosystem and support policymakers in understanding the full impact on T2T recyclers and incorporating these insights into policies.

Fashion for Good announced "Closing the Footwear Loop," a major initiative bringing together 14 leading fashion and footwear brands and their existing circularity programmes to tackle the industry's complex circularity challenges. This collaborative project aims to enable the transformation of footwear's current linear "take-make-dispose" model into a circular one, driving innovation across the value chain.
 
Participating brands include: adidas, DEICHMANN, Dr. Martens, Footwear Innovation Foundation (affiliated with FDRA), Inditex, lululemon, ON, Otto Group, Puma, Reformation, Target, Tommy Hilfiger, Vivobarefoot, and Zalando.
 
Footwear: A Complex Challenge
The global footwear industry churns out 23.8 billion pairs of shoes  annually, a figure that highlights both its scale and its environmental footprint. Each shoe is composed on average of more than 60 different components , ranging from fabrics and plastics to rubber and adhesives, intricately assembled to meet performance, aesthetic, and cost demands. This complexity, however, hinders the adoption of circular practices, leaving the sector lagging behind in circular innovation compared to other areas of fashion.
 
While consumers and the industry alike are increasingly calling for more circular solutions, the reality is stark: the most recent studies conclude that approximately 90% of footwear ends up in landfills , contributing to an ever-growing mountain of waste. Unlike other areas of fashion where innovation has been more readily integrated, footwear's multi-material construction and complex design complicate efforts to sort, disassemble, or recycle effectively.
 
This challenge is exacerbated by a lack of reverse logistics infrastructure and the absence of design principles that prioritise circularity. Current practices largely focus on linear production models — manufacture, use, and discard — failing to address the lifecycle of products. The sector's lag in scaled innovation compared to apparel underscores the urgency for systemic change, as the environmental consequences of inaction continue to mount.  
 
While this complexity presents a significant hurdle, brands are already exploring innovative solutions, including material science advancements and take-back programs, to address these challenges and pave the way for more circular footwear.

These individual efforts complement the collaborative work within “Closing the Footwear Loop”, creating a synergistic approach to driving industry-wide change.

Fashion for Good is working with ecosystem partners The Footwear Collective, Global Footwear Future Coalition (GFFC), and Global Fashion Agenda to drive a collaborative approach across the industry.  
 
Closing the Footwear Loop was born out of Pioneering the Future of Footwear and addresses multiple key intervention points: lack of end-of-life infrastructure, complex multi-material designs, and a need for unified circularity approaches. This project will deliver:
 

• Detailed mapping of European footwear waste streams (in collaboration with Circle Economy), providing crucial data on volumes, materials, rewearability, and recyclability. (Report & business case assessment due 2025)
• A roadmap towards circular footwear design, developed with Fashion for Good Alumni circular.fashion, outlining principles for material selection, durability, recyclability, repairability, and responsible chemical management. (Guidelines due 2025)
• Validation of end-of-use innovations, including trials and impact assessments, to overcome current bottlenecks and drive industry-wide adoption. (Recycled material outputs due 2026)

The undersigned PROs and business associations launched the Textile PRO Forum, a unique voluntary initiative designed to harmonise and share best practices for effective and efficient implementation of the Extended Producer Responsibility for textiles and footwear (Textiles EPR) across Europe.

As Europe prepares for the mandatory separate collection of textile waste and with the revision of the Waste Framework Directive entering its final stage, the EPR schemes have become a cornerstone of the European strategy for sustainability and circularity of textiles.

These EPR schemes and the related PROs will operate differently in each EU Member State, reflecting national legislation, market conditions, and infrastructure. While this diversity reflects local features, it also presents a challenge for efficiency and for businesses which will face the complexity of up to 27 different EPR models for textiles.

The Textile PRO Forum addresses this need by bringing together experienced PROs and national business associations engaged in the implementation of the Textile EPRs. Its mission is to foster collaboration, harmonization, and knowledge-sharing among the Textile EPR Producer Responsibility Organizations (PROs).

Initiated by Refashion, the first PRO for textiles, and by EURATEX, the European Textile and Apparel Confederation, the Textile PRO Forum is coordinated by EURATEX. The initial key activities include the Forum set up and the following strategic workstreams:

• Reduce administrative burden
• Harmonize approaches to implement the eco-modulation fees, set by legislation
• Supporting recycling
• Harmonise framework
• Set up, creation and expansion of PROs

List of the participating organizations

1. Asociación para la Gestión del Residuo Textil y Calzado
2. ATOK
3. Cobat Tessile
4. Comeos
5. Creamoda
6. Danish Fashion & Textile
7. Electrao
8. Erion Textiles
9. EURATEX
10. Fedustria
11. Finnish Textile & Fashion
12. Gesamtverband Textil- und Mode
13. Inretail
14. Modint
15. Reconomy / Redress
16. Recydata
17. Refashion
18. RETEX.Green
19. Retur
20. REFABRIK
21. Stichting Producentenorganisatie UPV Textiel
22. TEKO – Swedish Textile and Fashion Industries

According to Fashion for Good, 2025 marks a turning point for the fashion industry, where innovation and sustainability are more crucial than ever. From addressing the intricate challenges of circular footwear design to redefining the resilience of global supply chains, the industry faces both immense tasks and transformative opportunities.

Here are their six pivotal shifts shaping fashion’s future in 2025:

Footwear's Innovation Sprint
Footwear is emerging as fashion’s next big frontier for innovation, ready to match the advancements seen in apparel. Yet, it faces its own set of challenges in achieving circular design. Traditional shoe construction—reliant on complex material blends and adhesives—has long hindered recycling efforts. But 2025 holds promise. A wave of breakthroughs in sustainable materials and manufacturing techniques is on the horizon, led by both established players and bold startups. Together, they’re redefining what’s possible, paving the way for scalable circular footwear.
 
Regional Circularity Takes Center Stage
The future of materials is accelerating, with innovators urgently seeking access to recycled feedstock. Regional sourcing and recycling hubs are becoming pivotal, as the industry builds networks capable of scaling circular solutions. By moving beyond pilot programs, brands are making tangible strides toward robust supply chains that meet both legislative demands and consumer expectations for sustainability.
 
Hard Tech Investment Shifting
Investments in hard tech and innovation within the fashion industry will face a nuanced landscape in 2025. The tightening of venture funding will necessitate greater discipline among startups. Only those who effectively validate their minimum viable products (MVPs) and manage cash judiciously will thrive. This period of consolidation and selective investment presents opportunities for the most prepared innovators to capitalise on market shifts while adapting to evolving investor priorities.
 
The Waste Crackdown
Zero-waste is no longer a lofty ambition—it’s becoming a necessity. With stricter legislation reshaping the landscape, the fashion industry is innovating rapidly to tackle its waste challenges. From advanced materials recovery systems to AI-powered sorting technologies, the industry is racing to adapt. As the resale market is projected to grow, the drive for waste reduction is unlocking new opportunities for impact.
 
Decarbonisation Reality Check
As the industry grapples with missed targets, 2025 will see an intensified push for collective action, with mounting pressure on suppliers to accelerate green transitions. Success will depend on deep collaboration—between brands, local governments, and cross-sector coalitions—especially in manufacturing regions where grid transformation remains critical. The journey is complex, but the shared commitment to decarbonisation is stronger than ever.
 
Supply Chain Geopolitics 2.0
Investment in other manufacturing markets is accelerating as brands seek alternatives to China. But this isn't simple nearshoring - it's about strategic diversification and building resilient regional networks. The focus is shifting to developing new manufacturing ecosystems that can support both traditional and circular production models.