From the Sector

Rieter has signed a definitive agreement to acquire Barmag from OC Oerlikon for an upfront equity purchase price of CHF 713 million. The acquisition will create a globally leading player in natural and manmade fibers, headquartered in Winterthur, Switzerland, and is highly complementary to Rieter’s short-staple fiber business.

Barmag is a provider of filament spinning systems used for manufacturing manmade fibers, texturing machines, BCF1) systems, staple fiber spinning and nonwovens solutions and – as an engineering services provider – offers solutions along the textile value chain. In the financial year 2024, the company generated sales of CHF 734 million with around 2 600 employees.

Barmag comprises the established product brands Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven. The main markets for the Barmag product portfolio are China, India, Türkiye and the United States of America. The innovative and technologically advanced products are developed in Remscheid and Neumünster (Germany) as well as Suzhou and Wuxi (China).

As fiber consumption is projected to rise, most of the growth is expected to come from manmade fibers. The increase of natural fibers such as cotton and linen is limited due to natural boundaries. Manmade fibers will help to meet expanding demand for clothing, technical and home textiles. The strategic acquisition of Barmag will transform Rieter into a leading supplier for converting natural and manmade fibers into yarn.

The transaction is fully in-line with Rieter’s strategy and follows previous acquisitions, where Rieter complemented its portfolio in short-staple fiber machinery and expanded its footprint in components and machinery for manmade fiber production. The combined platform allows to leverage the recovery of global filament and short staple fiber spinning markets and to reduce cyclicality due to diversification of end-markets. The acquisition will further enhance Rieter’s position in the important Asia-Pacific region and provide access to Barmag’s filament expertise, which will help to further scale Rieter’s own capabilities and improve digitization solutions and product sustainability.

Rieter’s largest shareholder, Peter Spuhler (c. 33% shareholding) is supportive of the transaction and committed to participating in the rights-issue pro-rata by exercising its subscription rights as well as investing additional capital through the non-pre-emptive capital raise. After the capital increase, PCS Holding AG is expected to retain a shareholding of c. 33%.

Additionally, Rieter’s second-largest shareholder, Martin Haefner (c. 10%), also supports the transaction and has committed to participating pro-rata in the rights-issue by exercising its subscription rights and investing additional capital through the non-pre-emptive capital raise.

At the recent Dhaka International Textile & Garment Machinery Exhibition (DTG), Jeanologia showcased its integrated ecosystem of technologies designed to drive automation, efficiency, and sustainability across the entire denim production process.

Jeanologia, a global leader in the development of sustainable technologies for the textile industry, wants to reinforcing Bangladesh’s position as the world’s leading denim manufacturer by offering cutting-edge solutions that transform the industry from fabric treatment to garment finishing.

With over 20 years of presence in Bangladesh, Jeanologia continues to be a strategic partner for the country’s leading manufacturers, supporting them in their transition toward a more eco-efficient and competitive industry. By integrating its fabric-to-garment finishing solutions, the company is accelerating the shift towards a new era of digital and sustainable denim production.

Since its founding, Jeanologia has been on a mission to transform the textile industry into a more ethical, sustainable, and efficient model. The company works closely with brands, retailers, and suppliers on this transformative journey, offering disruptive technologies, innovative software, and a new operational model. Their groundbreaking solutions, including laser technology, G2 ozone, Dancing Box, e-flow, H2Zero, and ColorBox, have redefinedgarment design and finishing standards, eliminating polluting processes and significantly reducing the use of water, energy, and chemicals. Thanks to these advancements, Jeanologia has saved millions of liters of water and eliminated harmful substances, turning its vision of a truly sustainable textile industry into reality.

G2 Dynamic: Fabric finishing
Jeanologia’s G2 Dynamic technology is revolutionizing fabric treatment and garment finishing by replacing highly polluting conventional processes with an eco-efficient ozone-based alternative. This solution significantly reduces the environmental impact of denim manufacturing by cutting water and chemical consumption by up to 95% and energy use by 80%.

Automated, digital, and sustainable garment finishing
Beyond fabric treatment, Jeanologia provides advanced garment finishing solutions that integrate automation, digitalization, and sustainability. These include Laser technology, a fully digital and automated system that replaces traditional manual and chemical-intensive processes, increasing precision and creativity while reducing environmental impact; G2 Indra, based on Airwash technology, this eco-efficient solution achieves authentic vintage and aged denim looks without using water or chemicals, reducing environmental impact while maintaining fabric integrity; e-Flow, a nanobubble technology that applies chemicals using minimal water, drastically reducing waste, and improving fabric performance; and H2 Zero, a water recycling system that enables zero discharge in the finishing process, making garment production more sustainable and resource-efficient.

“Our goal is to transform the denim industry by offering an end-to-end solution that enables a more responsible, automated, and sustainable production model. Bangladesh plays a key role in this transformation, and our technologies support the country’s leadership in the global market,” said Jean Pierre Inchauspe, Jeanologia’s Business Director in Asia.

Monforts has completed the installation of a Baldwin TexCoat™ G4 digital spray unit at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

It has been successfully integrated into one of the two full-size Montex stenter lines at the ATC and is now available for full customer trials, especially for making full use of the latest advanced sustainable finishing chemistries supplied by Archroma.

BW Converting’s TexCoat G4 enables softeners, antimicrobials, durable water repellents, flame retardants and many other water-based chemicals to be precisely applied to textile surfaces, and in combination with industry-leading Montex stenters can reduce water, chemistry and energy consumption by up to 50% compared to traditional pad application processes.

Monforts is providing vital support to dyeing and finishing manufacturers in their development projects, successfully boosting the quality and performance of many new finished products while at the same time maximising productivity and resource utilisation

“Our ATC houses two full Montex stenter finishing lines engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full color kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials,” says Monforts Head of Sales for South-East Asia Hans Wroblowski. “It enables our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics under fully confidential, real production conditions and using the results from these trials we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes.

“The new TexCoat installation will make an important contribution to what we can achieve and we are excited to be working together with Archroma and Baldwin to bring further transformative change to the dyeing and finishing space.”

“This partnership is already creating a buzz in the industry and we have several textile manufacturers lining up to take advantage of running production trials at the ATC,” adds Rick Stanford, vice-president of global business development for textiles at BW Converting. “Together we are in a position as never before to accelerate the pace of transformative change in the dyeing and finishing space that will result in significantly lower energy, chemicals and water consumption with increased productivity and higher quality.”

“With the extension of our long-standing partnership with Baldwin – now including the processing expertise and knowhow of Monforts – the development of new concepts for chemical functionalisation and coloration will be taken a step further,” says Michael Schuhmann, Global Market Segment Manager for Technical Textiles at Archroma Textile Effects. “Additionally, we can now demonstrate potential savings and performance levels under actual industrial conditions, providing mill partners with clear proof of efficiency without disrupting their production.”

UMAC, a member of the EREMA Group, is expanding its ReadyMac product line with a new 60 hertz version. This means that the immediately available plastics recycling solution can now be deployed worldwide. The standardised machine with its particularly attractive price-performance ratio will be presented in its new look for the first time at Plast Eurasia from 4-7 December 2024 in Istanbul.
    
The ReadyMac celebrated its market launch at K 2022. The recycling system, which is produced in stock and therefore available at short notice, has since established itself successfully in the 50 hertz version, particularly on the European market. Based on this success, UMAC is now also offering the ReadyMac 500 in a 60 hertz version. "The ReadyMac is suitable for a wide range of materials and degrees of contamination, processing film, flakes and regrind into high-quality recycled pellets. The fixed price of just EUR 375,000 makes it an attractive proposition," says Michael Köhnhofer, Site Manager at UMAC. The machine is produced in small series at the St. Marien site.

The ReadyMac is based on EREMA's proven TVE technology, in which degassing occurs after filtration. Equipped with a robust SW RTF® screen changer filtration system, the recycling machine processes both printed and contaminated waste. The multipurpose screw handles a wide range of materials efficiently and reliably. With a throughput of up to 500 kg/h for LDPE, LLDPE, MDPE, PP, PS, PC, ABS and up to 450 kg/h for HDPE, the ReadyMac 500 is a true all-rounder. In addition, the two frequency converters on the main drives (preconditioning unit and extruder screw) ensure consistently high throughputs and quality for a wide variety of material types, such as regrind, film or nonwoven, even without changing the screw. This enhances both flexibility and productivity. The frequency converters are now included as standard with the ReadyMac.

Flat knitting technology company SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, is participating in the ITMA Asia + CITME 2024 exhibition in Shanghai, China. In line with its exhibition concept at ITMA 2023 and ITMA Asia + CITME 2022 held last year, SHIMA SEIKI continues the concept for this year’s exhibition: “SHIMA SEIKI Reborn".

SHIMA SEIKI Reborn represents a return to origin, for the company and for its products, and a renewal of passion and commitment toward innovation. The concept is manifested in physical form as the long-awaited production version of the SWG-XR® next-generation WHOLEGARMENT® machine, introduced to much acclaim as prototypes at ITMA 2023 in Milan, Italy and ITMA Asia + CITME 2022 exhibits last year.

Of the 5 knitting machines SHIMA SEIKI is exhibiting at its 350 sq. meter booth in Hall 4, Stand F01, 4 are WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines, 2 of which are the new SWG-XR® machines, shown. 2 other WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines and 1 prototype computerized flat knitting machine round out the machine exhibit. Approximately 270 knit items are on display as proposals for knitted applications in various fields ranging from fashion to shoes, bags and accessories.

In addition to machine technology, SHIMA SEIKI's computer graphic design system and software are shown with their latest software upgrades that feature significant improvements in knit programming, 3D functions and speed, as well as generative AI functions. Demonstrations are available for a comprehensive fashion tech solutions package based on realistic virtual sampling and supported by various digital solutions and web services.

Based on customer feedback as well as industry and media response at ITMA 2023 and ITMA Asia + CITME 2022, SHIMA SEIKI's exhibit is likely to garner much attention at ITMA Asia + CITME 2024 as well.

With 42 exhibiting member companies, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024 is once again marked by a strong presence of VDMA companies. They cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and man-made fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & warp knitting, finishing & dyeing as well as technologies for textile recycling and processing of recycled material.
In total, the German participation at the fair is the largest from outside China.

The VDMA team in Shanghai is staffed again with colleagues from the VDMA headquarters in Germany as well as from VDMA China. With these joined forces, the team is well prepared to support the exhibiting member companies on site.

Dr. Harald Weber, Managing Director VDMA Textile Machinery Association, summarised: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s ITMA ASIA is an essential showcase for the member companies of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association. There is definitely no shortage of chances and opportunities in China and other Asian markets. The exhibiting members will demonstrate their smart technologies that can pave the way to a green textile production and are looking forward to welcoming numerous visitors from various countries to their booths in Shanghai.”

China is aiming at a green and low CO₂ development of its textile industry. At a press conference on the first day of ITMA ASIA + CITME, Georg Stausberg, member of the board of VDMA Textile Machinery and CEO of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division said: “Topics, such as energy efficiency and the careful use of resources have become increasingly important for Asian customers in recent years, not least due to stricter legal framework conditions. VDMA members and their technologies are the right partners on the road to a greener and low CO₂ textile production.”
 
Export performance
Already in 2023, the global textile machinery exports decreased by 18.6 % compared to 2022. This was a challenge all major textile machinery producing countries had to face. However, the German exports remained relatively strong and only declined by 3.4 % in 2023. 2024 did not see a change in the global textile industry and thus the German exports have now also dropped significantly. Between January and July 2024, German exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.2 billion € (2023: 1.6 billion €). The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and July: China: 242 million € (2023: 384 million €), Turkey: 140 million € (2023: 180 million €), USA: 118 million € (2023: 152 million €), India: 100 million € (2023: 153 million €).

Sales opportunities in Asia
An economic survey of VDMA in September, to which 20 textile machinery companies replied, reflects the global challenging situation. Around 36 % assessed their current business situation as satisfactory, 54 % said it was bad. Only very few companies expect the global situation to improve in the next six months.

However, looking at the sales opportunities by regions/countries in Asia, most of the responding companies expect a better business situation in the Asian markets except China in six months. The business situation is expected to be on a satisfactory level then. With regard to this, a presence at ITMA ASIA in Shanghai and next year in Singapore is important for VDMA members to continuously show their innovations and to keep contact with the customers in Asia.

Monforts recently celebrated its 140th anniversary at a special event for staff and their families at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany. Building on a rich history since its foundation by August Monforts in 1884, the company remains 100% dedicated to the development of technologies that will ensure the future success of its textile industry customers.

Under the motto, ‘140 Years of Performance, Innovation and Partners’, Monforts is looking forward to further celebrating this milestone with its representatives and customers at the forthcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in Shanghai from October 14-18, in Hall 5 at stand C09.

The first Monforts machines were mechanical napping units for raising the surfaces of cotton fabrics, providing softness and warmth and adding value. By 1893, Monforts 24-roller napping machines were drawing appreciative crowds at the World Fair in Chicago – establishing international trade networks was paramount to the company from the outset.

In 1897, August Monforts established an iron foundry equipped with hydraulic casting machines, by which time the company employed 1,200 people. This was followed by the introduction of semi-automatic manufacturing tools – an area in which Monforts achieved a number of firsts, such as the single-spindle lathe which became a big export hit in the late 1930s due to its unique and unmatched precision.

Overseen by successive four generations of the Monforts family, the company’s range of textile machines has been significantly expanded based on decades of accumulated know-how and a dominant position in fabric finishing technologies has been established.

Since 2013, Monforts has been a member of the CHTC Fong’s Group, today one of the world’s largest textile machinery manufacturers.

Since its opening in 2013, the Monforts Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) in Mönchengladbach has proved a valuable resource to customers for achieving new standards in fabric finishing.

Over an area of 1,200 square metres, it houses two full finishing lines, engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full colour kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials.

“The ATC allows our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics on Monforts dyeing and finishing machines under fully confidential, real production conditions,” says Monforts Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “Using the results from these trials, we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes.”

This year's ITMA Asia + CITME 2024 trade fair appearance of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division between 14 and 18 October 2024 will once again focus on current challenges for the global textile machinery industry: the replacement of old systems with energy-efficient and sustainable technology solutions, the use of digital software and hardware solutions to increase productivity and ensure material quality, and the traceability of all products to enable the recycling of the raw materials used in a future-oriented circular economy.

Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions offers complete solutions ranging from extrusion and polycondensation systems to texturized yarn, accompanied by automation and digital solutions. The supply of all process steps from a single source ensures a coordinated technology that guarantees the high quality of the fibers and yarns produced. The entire product portfolio of the supplier of machines and systems primarily to produce polyester, polypropylene and nylon will therefore take centre stage at this year's trade fair.

“The Chinese market continues to have enormous potential for us, even if it has not been able to match the previous times in terms of large new installations of manmade fiber plants and the associated expansion of production capacity for good two years. However, there is still a great need for renewal, especially in terms of sustainability. Shutting down old plants and replacing them with new, modern and energy-efficient technologies is the path to a better and lower-emission future for us all,” explains André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs. “We have been contributing to sustainability with our technology solutions for decades. Be it by increasing energy efficiency with each new generation of machines or by processing new materials,” Wissenberg continues. Oerlikon is proud of the fact that the company has been offering solutions for the textile industry under the e-save sustainability label for 20 years and has saved over 15 million tons of CO2 thanks to the machines and systems developed and installed on the market during this time.

KARL MAYER GROUP has developed a sophisticated system for considerable energy savings when operating the cylinder dryers in its PROSIZE® sizing machines and BLUEDYE dyeing plant.

Saving costs with inline energy recycling
The innovation is called CASCADE and focuses on steam as a heating medium in cylinder dryers. And for good reason: according to the IPCC report by ITMF Zurich, one tonne of steam cost between USD 20 and just under USD 27 internationally in 2021. The new solution relies on reuse to reduce the amount of process energy required.
"CASCADE recirculates parts of the process steam in cylinder dryers, enabling genuine, efficient energy recycling within the machine," explains Karl-Heinz Vaassen, Head of Textile Drying at KARL MAYER.
The customer benefits from significantly lower energy costs and CO2 emissions. With a view to the Asian market, a dryer with 14 cylinders and a running time of 7,000 working hours can achieve cost savings of up to USD 17,000 per year.

Precise, real savings values are available when looking at the machine dashboard. A sensor provides real-time data on the amount of steam circulating in the circuit, from which the corresponding reduction in CO2 equivalents can be calculated.

Utilizing the pressure drop
CASCADE reuses part of the invested process energy and uses the flash-steam in conjunction with the pressure ratios, which - nomen est omen - decrease in cascades in the different zones of the cylinder dryer.
The highest working pressure prevails in the first cylinder section. The heat transfer medium steam emits large amounts of energy for yarn drying and condenses without temperature loss.

The resulting hot condensate is not immediately discharged from the machine, but is instead fed into a flash tank, where vapor exhaust is formed as a result of the pressure reduction. In conventional systems, the carrier medium for gases is only created in the return line towards the boiler house and is eliminated as undesirable. Instead of being utilised in the process, it escapes into the environment. With the CASCADE system, this "freshly recycled steam" is used for the heat supply in the second cylinder section, but not without prior treatment.

In the system patented by KARL MAYER, the recycled steam is intelligently mixed with live steam and thus raised to the level of the required process conditions for use in the cylinder section at the end of the dryer. Here, the fabric moisture is reduced to the desired residual value at medium pressure and temperature conditions.

Market launch is underway
CASCADE was filed for patent by the KARL MAYER GROUP. It was published in September 2023.
The innovative solution at no extra charge was presented at ITM 2024 in Istanbul and was a visitor highlight at the KARL MAYER GROUP stand.

From January 2024, CASCADE will be part of the PROSIZE® as standard. The first sizing machine with the upgrade for greater energy efficiency will be delivered in the second quarter of this year. It will go to a manufacturer in Europe. In the next step, CASCADE will be integrated into other dryer types and will also be available for the BLUEDYE.

Monforts, which is celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, will exhibit a Montex stenter chamber with an integrated overhead heat recovery unit at the forthcoming ITM textile machinery exhibition in Istanbul from June 4-8.

The heat recovery unit on display at the stand of Monforts partner Neotek is just one of a range of energy saving options the company is now providing for both new and existing line installations.

Monforts Montex stenters and Thermex dyeing ranges are industry standard for the fabric finishing industry, providing many advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and savings.

coaTTex
At ITM, Monforts will also introduce its latest coaTTex coating unit, dedicated to air knife and knife-over-roller coating. For single-sided application with paste or foam, the versatile coaTTex is suitable for both incorporation into existing finishing ranges as well as installation with new Monforts lines, especially Montex stenter systems.

A wide range of coatings can be applied to fabrics for providing functions such as waterproofing, liquid and gas protection and breathability, in addition to foam lamination and coating, including black-out coating.

Central location
“In Turkey we are very strongly supported by our representative Neotek, our solution partner on the ground for service, installation and commissioning, providing specialised and rapid help to all of our customers,” says Monforts Area Sales Manager Thomas Paeffgen. “ITM is always one of the most important exhibitions for Monforts, for meeting customers not just from Turkey, but across the Middle East and Central Asia, as well as Bangladesh, India and Pakistan.

“Istanbul’s centralised position makes it accessible to the majority of the major textile manufacturing hubs and as we mark our 140th anniversary in 2024, having been founded back in 1884, the ITM show will provide us with the ideal opportunity to celebrate with colleagues and customers all together in one location.”