From the Sector

Aachen - Warden Schijve, former Chief Scientist Composites at SABIC, recently joined the AZL engineering team in October. As Design Leader, he is further expanding the product and application development division of the service provider for business development and technology development in lightweight.

AZL Aachen GmbH supports companies along the entire value chain in implementing competitive lightweight technologies. "We develop component and production concepts for companies, including the analysis of costs and production-relevant KPIs. With our broad range of material and production technologies, we provide a comprehensive solution for the development and evaluation of products and identify the most suitable paths to implementation. Warden Schijve will use his many years of experience to support our partners in the efficient development, evaluation and implementation of component and production solutions through to market readiness," says Dr. Kai Fischer, Managing Partner of AZL Aachen GmbH.

From his 35 years in the composites industry with Fokker, DSM and SABIC, Warden Schijve brings a broad and deep expertise in structural design, plastics and composites, as well as processing technology.
Warden Schijve: “In my career I’ve always seen that it pays off to evaluate various different design concepts, which may use different materials or material combinations, to finally come to the most cost-competitive lightweight applications. Taking into account different manufacturing technologies right from the beginning can save a lot in later stages of component development. And this is what fascinates me about AZL and its eco-system: the available knowledge on a wide variation of process and production technologies, including cutting edge equipment, at both the AZL Tech Center, and the various institutes present in the total RWTH Aachen Campus.”

Dr. Michael Emonts, Managing Partner of AZL Aachen GmbH: "We are delighted that Warden Schijve, as a well-known face from the AZL community, will enrich us in developing lightweight applications, production systems and processes, identifying competitive technology optimizations through the analysis of markets and applications, and supporting our customers in the industrial implementation of the developed technologies."

Warden Schijve will also lead the project for a concept study for future battery casings based on composite-based multi-material systems. The AZL started the project in October together with 30 participating companies from the entire value chain to get an overview of existing component solutions, evaluate the advantages of a multi-material approach and develop a multi-material component design including a production concept for battery casings.

FINEXTM, Sateri’s marquee brand for recycled fibre, is now certified to the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) which provides verification of recycled raw materials through the supply chain.

RCS is intended for use with any product that contains at least 5% recycled material. Sateri has successfully produced FINEXTM viscose fibres with up to 20% recycled content. Under the RCS certification process, each stage of production is required to be certified, beginning at the recycling stage and ending at the last seller in the final business-to-business transaction.

These new developments were announced at the official launch of FINEXTM on September 23, 2020. About 160 guests, mostly senior representatives of major fashion brands and fabric and garment makers, gathered to celebrate the milestones that cement the status of FINEXTM as a game changer for sustainable fashion.

Themed ‘Sustainable Fashion for the Future’, the launch was jointly hosted by Sateri and China International Fashion Fair (CHIC) on the sidelines of the three-day Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, a major industry expo.

In his address, Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said, “The development of FINEXTM has been an intensive effort for Sateri from initial commercialisation, to partnering brands like Lafuma and Rico Lee, and finally to today’s launch. This is all made possible with collaboration across the value chain – working alongside yarn spinners, garment makers and brand partners – to bring a high quality and more planetfriendly product to consumers. The fashion industry is changing fast and, beyond functionality, circularity is now of the greatest importance in apparel manufacturing.”

In the ‘2020 Sustainable Fashion Report’ released by China’s leading business news publication CBNweekly earlier this week, results of a survey with stakeholders in the fashion value chain reinforced the potential of textile recycling as a solution to the problem of textile waste arising from over-consumption and production. The report identified technology and capital as the biggest barriers to textile recycling and highlighted the critical role brands play in mobilising manufacturers and consumers to advance sustainable fashion.

As part of its efforts to promote textile fibre recycling in China, Sateri is in dialogue with the China Association of Circular Economy (CACE) to undertake a comprehensive study on the industrial-scale textile waste recycling landscape in the country. The study is expected to commence next year.

• Bemberg™ presents a great deal of novelties with a true key-statement for sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular!
• The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber Cupro derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing.

“Sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources”.

In Bemberg™’s production the whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA (Istituto per la Certificazione Etica e Ambientale) and validated by President of Ecoinnovazione Paolo Masoni ex Research Director of ENEA (Ente per le Nuove tecnologie, l’Energia e l’Ambiente).

While recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange (an influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns), Bemberg™ yarns are also entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free - meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

A special focus deserves Velutine™ Evo, the new fibrillation finishing technology for Bemberg™ fabrics only that guarantees another level of sustainable benefits without sacrificing the Bemberg™ amazing and unique touch. As part of the company’s continuous innovation, Velutine™ Evo brings better environmental, energy and water profiles for the benefit of Bemberg™ partners in the manufacture of their ranges.
The sustainable achievements of the new finishing technology have been measured by LCA - Life Cycle Assessment study by ICEA and proved to guarantee environmental benefits such as -16.5% of greenhouses gas emissions and -21% of overall consumption of energy resources. On top of that Velutine™ Evo means also -20.5% of electricity savings, -15.9% of steam production and -19.5% of water consumption.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

Bemberg™ collaborated also with the premium brand CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO uses Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it’s unique colour.

CAALO uses as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit. This versatile blazer features a removable hood, hidden welt pockets, button closure, and removable cargo pockets.

Bemberg™ gears up for Première Vision - February 11th-13th, Paris, France; with a great deal of novelties and a key statement on sustainability: Let’s Make it Circular! That’s why the Japanese brand of regenerated cellulose fibers joins the fair with two booths, one in the yarn-focused sector – Hall 6 C52 6D53 – the other one in the Smart Creation area, the curated district showcasing cutting-edge sustainable innovation for the textile and fashion business. Hall3 S14.

“We simply could not miss out on the Smart Creation Area as sustainability is the founding pillar of our company,” says SHUNSUKE SATO, sales manager of Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei. “Indeed, the smart fiber is made from a cotton linter which is pre-consumer material, a natural derived source, that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. The strategy beyond our double presence is to highlight our deep commitment to responsible innovation to a larger target of professionals.”

Let’s take it circular! is the motto at the Smart Creation booth. The lifespan of Bemberg™’s regenerated cellulose fiber derived from cotton is fully circular: from the source to manufacturing. The whole sustainable closed-loop process is supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni. Recyclability is granted by the Global Recycle Standard - GRS certification by the renown Textile Exchange. An influential guarantee that involves the whole production process and supply chain behind the company’s smart yarns. Bemberg™ yarns are entirely biodegradable and ecotoxicity-free – meaning that at the end of their life circle they break down into the environment leaving no trace in terms of toxic substances as attested by the Innovhub-SSI report.

On show at Première Vision some of the most recent collaborations with GRS-certified partners such as FIVEOL, SMI TESSUTI, TESSITURA UBOLDI, INFINITY, SIDONIOS, MATIAS & ARAUJO, TINTEX, IPEKER, EKOTEN, for fashion fabrics as well as PEZZETTI and BRUNELLO & G.CRESPI from lining partners.

The first Bemberg™ partner to present a commercial collection enriched by Velutine™ Evo is the Portuguese Matias & Araújo. With an innovative spirit, dynamism and a determined entrepreneurial spirit, the company is a leading knitwear producer for the textile industry.

In the Hall 6 Bemberg™ displays key commercial items developed by premium brands such as CAALO that is making its mark in the outerwear market with its Sustainably produced Functional-Luxury proposal. For SS20, CAALO utilized Bemberg™ lining because of the sustainability properties and it's unique colour.

CAALO looks to utilize as much eco-friendly and sustainable materials as possible without compromising on design or quality. This Bemberg™ lining was a perfect fit.

• Première Vision New York - 21st to 22nd of January 2020.

Bemberg™ is pleased to present a full range of new fabric innovations at Première Vision New York. Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel.

During this edition of Première Vision New York attendees will discover a full range of new fabric innovations from international partners.

Bemberg™ proposal will especially focus on Velutine Evo for shell fabrics, the new technically advanced finishing refinement technology developed in the Japanese laboratories of Asahi Kasei that offers a premium finish to the best qualities of the classic Bemberg™ peach skin touch. As part of the company’s continuous innovation, Velutine Evo brings better environmental, energy and water profiles for the benefit of Bemberg™ partners in the manufacture of their ranges. It sets a new benchmark for everyday luxury with a new generation of fibrillation technology.

The unique circularity of Bemberg™

Bemberg™ is made from a cotton linter bio-utility material, a natural derived source, and a truly unique one in the smart fiber arena that doesn’t deplete forestry resources. And apart from the exquisite and precious touch of Bemberg™ fabrics, visitors will see the unique circularity of Bemberg™ from its source, manufacture and end-of-life credentials, supported by the LCA study, signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni, confirming a new quality profile and standard with a more responsible and unique position today. Full GRS certification, Oeko-Tex 100, ISO 14001, & Eco-Mark. Bemberg™ also has a new Compostability Certification.

The Innovhub-SSI report confirms Bemberg™ filaments disintegrate at 100% value Twithin the limits specified by the UNI EN 13432, point A.3.1 for disintegration in composting. Also, a new Ecotoxicity metric to EN 13432:2000 Annex E, the compost obtained from the Bemberg™ filaments according to ISO 16929:2013 revealed no ecotoxicity effect.  The Bemberg™ filaments tested for heavy metals and other toxic hazardous substances and was found to comply with tests specified by the UNI EN 13432, for the substances listed in table A.1.

Market and technology analysis confirms big potential for tape inserts in the injection molding process. Following the finalization of a major consortial project led by the Aachen Center for Integrative Lightweight Production (AZL) and the Institute for Plastics Processing at RWTH Aachen University (IKV), the result is clear: tape inserts offer enormous potential for injection molding parts. For suitable components, product costs and component properties can be positively influenced.

In cooperation with 20 industrial partners, the two renowned Aachen research institutes AZL and IKV carried out a detailed analysis of tape inserts in injection molded components over a period of eight months. The tapes, which are a few tenths of a millimeter thick, are continuous fibers, typically made of glass or carbon, completely impregnated and embedded in a thermoplastic matrix. The tapes can be precisely aligned to the loads in a component and are used primarily in high-performance applications with the aim of weight reduction. The aim of the conducted analysis was the identification of potential applications and the estimation of a wider range of applications.

The project was divided into several phases: Phase I was used to identify the current status. In 20 interviews with representative companies of the injection molding industry, the researchers gathered why tape inserts have rarely been taken into account so far, when defining the material concepts to be analyzed. The lack of information about the material class, the procedure and tools for the development process and the necessary production technologies were cited as major challenges. This is where the consortium will take action and provide comprehensive information during the “Technology Information Day” on the extensively prepared state of the art and the high degree of maturity of the supply chain. Based on the status quo, they developed a methodology for analyzing the technological and economic potential of tape inserts in injection molding applications.

Both the previous results and the planned follow-up projects are the subject of the “Technology Information Day" at K 2019, to which the companies involved in the study, the AZL and IKV, invite all companies along the value chain, from raw material manufacturers to injection molders to OEMs. (Date: 18th October 2019, 10:00 am to 1:30 pm, Trade Fair Düsseldorf CCD South, Room 002).

The consortium, amongst others consisting of Asahi Kasei Europe GmbH, BASF SE, Borealis AG, BÜFA Thermoplastic Composites GmbH & Co. KG, ENGEL AUSTRIA GmbH, Huesker Synthetic GmbH, LG Hausys R&D Center, Mitsui Chemicals, Nippon Electric Glass, Polyscope Polymers BV, POLYTEC GROUP, Simcon kunststofftechnische Software GmbH, SABIC and Toray International Europe GmbH, is inviting to the “Technology Information Day” at K 2019. The goal is to inform about the technology and to identify topics for future collaboration.

IPC, the Industrial Technical Centre with expertise dedicated to plastic and composite innovation, is presenting two prototypes on its stand: an intelligent motorcycle helmet and a multifunctional windturbine blade. "With these two prototypes, IPC demonstrates its ability to functionalize composites, particularly with printed electronic components. Live demos will be organized during the three days of the show on our booth," explains Bertrand Fillon, General Manager of Research at IPC. The helmet was manufactured in partnership with the technical and creative paper manufacturer Arjowiggins, and the wind turbine blade, with the CEA. These two demonstrators will also be exhibited in Germany at the LOPEC exhibition 2019 in Munich on 20-21 March.

IMPROVE THE USER EXPERIENCE
The objective is to add new features to improve the user experience, without impacting security. The motorcycle helmet is equipped with sensors and NFC communication functions. "Here, printed organic electronics are used in the helmet to allow remote temperature changes," adds Lionel Tenchine, Program Line Manager for "Technologies for Intelligent Products" at IPC. The helmet manufacturing process is based on the use of composites and the infusion process.

DETECTING POTENTIAL DAMAGE IN ADVANCE
Developing predictive maintenance is an important issue when it comes to avoiding sudden, serious accidents. A recent McKinsey study estimates that by 2025 it will save $630 billion for companies, for example. The wind turbine blade presented at JEC World detects potential damage that could occur on the blade structure beforehand, making it possible to carry out preventive repairs on the one-meter-long blade. Printed organic electronics are used in the demonstrator to integrate strain gauges and the temperature detection function.

The study "Technologies, Markets and Players" by E-Textiles 2018-2028 predicts a 2 billion dollar growth of the smart textile market. This growth can only be achieved by replacing the existing approaches, mostly manual production, with series production. With the Smart Textiles Micro Factory, the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University, short ITA, will be demonstrating for the first time on the Texprocess stand, stand number C02, in the transition from Halls 4.1 and 5.1 how a smart textile can be manufactured from design to finished product together with various partners by producing a smart cushion.

The product and the manufacturing process are the result of co-innovation. In the future, co-innovation for smart textiles is to be implemented via the GeniusTex platform. As part of the German Federal Ministry of Economic Affairs and Energy's major strategic project for the “Smart Service World”, ITA is working with partners from industry and research to develop the online platform for smart textile innovation.

What does the furniture market look like and what potential composites offer for the furniture of today and tomorrow? The AZL is investigating this question together with companies from the composite and furniture industry. The result will be an overview of the current market and the materials used to date as well as an outlook on future mass applications for fiber-reinforced plastics (FRP). The study is open to interested companies and starts with a kick-off meeting at Composites Europe in Stuttgart on November 7th, 2018.

Furniture, its design and function have undergone major changes in recent decades: From robust lifelong companions to trend-setting models, from handmade one-of-a-kind pieces to mass products, from storage objects to multi-functional and “smart” all-rounders. This goes along with an increased diversity in terms of design and the materials used – and high potential for composites that offer additional design freedom and exceptional mechanical properties at low weight.

Study provides overview of furniture market and unique selling points of composites
In order to systematically identify the potential of fiber-reinforced composites and to use them in future furniture applications, the AZL is starting a study together with companies from the furniture and composite industry. Within four and a half months the market for furniture will be segmented, design and technology trends will be identified and the technical requirements for furniture and furniture components will be broken down to identify applications with high potential for composites. The overall goal is to understand the selection process and needs of the furniture designer in order to bring composites to the market as a targeted alternative to conventional materials.

Virginia Bozsak, Technical Manager Composites at ARKEMA Innovative Chemistry is participating in the study: “The ever-growing population number requires environmentally friendly material and a solution for the end of life treatment to recollect and reuse materials. For fast changing markets such as the furniture market, these materials also need to offer an enormous freedom of design. Arkema already answers this demand with the only liquid thermoplastic resin Elium® used as a thermoset resin to produce composite structural or aesthetical parts. With the joint study, we aim to identify specific applications in the furniture market to make use of material which is not limiting creativity or design specifications but rather enabling the future to be revolutionized.”

• @ Premiere Vision, Paris, 19-21st September, Booth 6G62 - 6H63

The story of a Bemberg™ heritage that has shaped a new future for smart innovation through research, knowledge and expertise to deliver the new face of Bemberg™, the one true original material for modern living. The presentation of the Bemberg™ new campaign represents a high benchmark in value for smart textile fiber innovations, and one that is built on a long heritage of innovations since 1931. Bemberg™ is the ONE new material definition for responsible luxury. The ONE for cool exquisite comfort, and the ONE whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.

Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel. The new campaign will amplify this uniqueness and innate smartness, redefining the brand voice as Bemberg™ at an international level with an openness and positive approach that facilitates a stronger, more focused role in the market while supporting our partner’s strengths too.

It is not just another brand name, but about enhancing core values through a now even better, more refined product and process that supports our partner’s mission to materially benefit the whole supply chain with beautiful products and open, honest communication. This is the key reason to launch the Bemberg™ global brand, taking the next steps on a journey that redefines a new future of contemporary luxury this unique fiber represents.

And for this, European manufacture is playing its key role in the global role out of the latest Bemberg™ innovations. Pioneering partner mills featured at the booth include: Euromaglia, Fiveol Textil, Infinity, Ipeker, Jackytex, Lanificio Europa, O’Jersey, SMI Tessuti, Tessitura Uboldi Luigi, TINTEX Textiles, Brunello, G.I. Tessil Foderami, Gianni Crespi Foderami, Manifattura Pezzetti, Marco Pastorelli and more. The new Bemberg™ booth at Premiere Vision is a contemporary and clean vision of the brand with a glowing, whitened atmosphere of modern architecture and luminous lighting that perfectly frames the new and dynamic identity image to reveal the ‘preciousness’ essence of the brand, its amazing textiles and leading fashion innovations.

Come and review the 3 fabric galleries, each showing the latest and unique fabric designs for Fashion Forward looks, refined Jersey Dressing and Luxury Athleisure Loungewear. Fashions by Maison Margiela confirm the new status of Bemberg™ as the ONE fiber that moves the luxury of Touch to a new contemporary fashion Feel: the ONE for a cool, liquid drape and movement: the ONE for fresh, exquisite comfort, and the ONE smart material born in the circular economy.

The Bemberg™ new campaign

We show a vision from the past in a true classic vintage sheath dress from the 1991 Martin Margiela winter collection using a peach skin finish on a refined, parachute-light fabric in a signature gunmetal grey colour courtesy of Zohra Alami. And also a contemporary representation of fashion from the MM6 MAISON MARGIELA SS2018 collection with a lingerie inspired dressy style in Bemberg™ popeline. This is a multifunctional style to be used as a top or as a dress

A new technical advance in finishing from Asahi Kasei is presented at the booth. Called Velutine Evo, the finish is comparable to premium peach skin finishes today, but now with a better environmental profile by using less water and energy to produce a durable and refined finish that sets a new benchmark for everyday luxury, demonstrating the company’s ongoing commitment to R&D in smarter, market relevant innovations. The results are supported by a preliminary study carried out by ICEA according to the methodology of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) 3rd party testing from ICEA, on datas provided by TIFAS and focusing on environmental benefits that will accrue to partners efforts to offer value with values.

Moreover, you will be able to enjoy the circularity of the Bemberg™ story: its source, manufacture and end-of-life credentials, as well as checking the LCA study, also signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni, a step that confirms a new quality profile and standard for Bemberg™ with a more responsible and unique position today. Full GRS certification, Oeko-Tex 100, ISO 14001, & Eco-Mark.
Also Bemberg™ can add to its premium position on responsible issues, starting from its raw material choice that clearly demonstrates its circular economy approach. Bemberg™ is made from a cotton linter bio-utility waste, a natural derived and abundant source, and a truly unique one in the smart fiber arena that doesn’t deplete food or forestry resources.

Bemberg™ has new Compostability Certification. Innovhub-SSI report confirms Bemberg™ filaments disintegrate at 100% value within the limits specified by the UNI EN 13432, point A.3.1 for disintegration in the composting process. Also related is a new Ecotoxicity metric to EN 13432:2000 Annex E, the compost obtained from the Bemberg™ filaments according to ISO 16929:2013 revealed the absence of any ecotoxicity effect respect higher plants. The Bemberg™ filaments tested for the presence of heavy metals and other toxic hazardous substances comply with the requirements specified by the UNI EN 13432, for the substances listed in table A.1.

Asahi Kasei is proud to present the Bemberg™ heritage that delivers a true precious uniqueness through responsible smart innovation and transparency. To make contemporary luxury materials that provoke emotive responses through its rarity, sensuality, research and creativity. The ingrained knowledge and know-how behind the brand adds value to the supply chain, working only with the best, amplifying our partner’s knowledge and dynamic commitment too.