From the Sector

RE&UP Next-Gen cotton fibers and Next-Gen polyester chips recognized for full-system circular design at scale. In an industry where over 99% of textile materials are still virgin and just 6.9% of the global economy is circular (2025 Circularity Gap Report, Circle Economy), RE&UP has taken a decisive step forward. The next-generation textile-to-textile recycler has become the first company in the textile industry to achieve C2C Certified® Circularity for all products, the most rigorous global standard for verifying circular product design and recovery-readiness at scale.

The certification was awarded to all three of RE&UP products by the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute:

• Next-Gen Recycled Cotton (Pre-Consumer) – C2C Certified® Circularity at Platinum level
• Next-Gen Recycled Cotton (Post-Consumer) – C2C Certified® Circularity at Platinum level
• Textile-to-Textile Recycled Polyester Chips – C2C Certified® Circularity at Silver level

These levels recognize not just recycled content, but a full-system approach to circularity – from sourcing and traceability to infrastructure compatibility and reuse pathways.

“This certification demonstrates that RE&UP is ready to tackle sustainability challenges at scale for the whole industry,” said Andreas Dorner, General Manager at RE&UP. “It proves that recycled fibers can go beyond one-off sustainability claims. With Cradle to Cradle Certified® Circularity, we’re demonstrating full-system readiness from sourcing to end-of-life for the textile industry.”

Cradle to Cradle Certified® Circularity assesses whether a product is designed for continuous cycles of safe, high-value reuse. The assessment is executed by a third party accredited assessing body, Eco Intelligent Growth (EIG).

Technical indicators include:

• Percentage of compatible materials for recycling
• End-of-life recovery systems
• Publicly available circularity data and cycling instructions
• Effective integration of recycled content
• Chemical safety (tested on legally restricted chemicals and beyond)

International technology group ANDRITZ has supplied and commissioned a reXline tearing system for Buitex, Semin Group, located in Cours, France. The new production line enables the company to expand textile waste recycling for sustainable insulation production.

Founded in 1895, Buitex is a French manufacturer of high-performance recycled products. As a pioneer in circular economy practices, Buitex transforms textile waste into high-performance insulation and comfort products. Since joining the Semin Group in 2023, the company has operated a 20,000 m² production site equipped with six production lines and has become one of Europe’s major players in the circular economy.

This second ANDRITZ tearing line at Buitex increases the company’s recycling capacity while maintaining high fiber purity, thanks to an advanced hard-point removal system. The latest-generation cyclone technology further improves disruptor sorting, enhancing overall efficiency. The system can process up to an additional 2.5 tons of fiber per hour, enabling the production of recycled fibers for applications such as bedding, construction, and automotive insulation.

"It is crucial for us to make the building insulation industry more sustainable by giving new life to post-consumer clothes that would otherwise be incinerated or end up in landfills. The European market has abundant raw materials and a strong demand for sustainable insulation products. With this new line, ANDRITZ enables us to significantly enhance our recycling capabilities,” says Adam Adamowicz, CEO of Buitex.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”

Der Druck auf die Textilindustrie, die kommenden Vorschriften für recycelte Materialien zu erfüllen, nimmt zu. Das dänische Unternehmen hat innovative Post-Consumer-Fasern aus Textilabfällen entwickelt und bietet der Branche so eine nachhaltige und skalierbare Lösung. Diese GRS-zertifizierten (Global Recycled Standard) Fasern, die aus Textilabfällen dänischer Haushalte hergestellt werden, stellen einen bedeutenden Durchbruch im Textilrecycling dar und bieten eine vollständige Rückverfolgbarkeit durch das fortschrittliche MES-System von NewRetex.

Durch den Einsatz seiner automatisierten Farbsortiertechnologie hat NewRetex eine standardisierte Farbkarte für recycelte Fasern und Garne entwickelt. Diese Farbkarte ermöglicht es Herstellern, Post-Consumer-Fasern in vorsortierten, hochreinen Farben auszuwählen, wodurch der Bedarf an zusätzlichem Färben reduziert und eine Palette für neue Textilprodukte geschaffen wird.

Erfüllung zukünftiger Anforderungen an recycelte Fasern
Da die EU-Gesetzgebung die Verwendung von recycelten Materialien in Textilien künftig vorschreiben wird, bieten Post-Consumer-Fasern eine zeitgemäße Lösung. Die Fasern sind vollständig rückverfolgbar, sodass Hersteller die zukünftigen Anforderungen an Zirkularität und Nachhaltigkeit erfüllen können. Da die Nachfrage nach recycelten Materialien steigt, garantiert die GRS-Zertifizierung von NewRetex die Einhaltung von Umwelt- und Sozialstandards und stellt sicher, dass diese Fasern auf verantwortungsvolle und nachhaltige Weise hergestellt werden. New Retex hat sich auf die KI-basierte und automatische Sortierung von Textilabfällen mithilfe fortschrittlicher Sensor-, Roboter- und Automatisierungstechnologien spezialisiert.

Vorreiter für die Zukunft des Textilrecyclings
NewRetex setzt neue Branchenstandards, indem es Post-Consumer-Fasern anbietet, die sowohl den ökologischen als auch den betrieblichen Anforderungen der Hersteller gerecht werden. Mit dem Fokus auf die Skalierung der Produktion und die kontinuierliche Verbesserung der Faserqualität geht das Unternehmen eine der dringendsten Herausforderungen der Branche an: den geringen Prozentsatz an Textilien, die derzeit zu neuen Kleidungsstücken recycelt werden. Durch modernste Automatisierung, Innovation und kontinuierliche Forschung positioniert sich das vollautomatische Textilabfallsortierunternehmen als wichtiger Akteur beim Übergang zu einer Kreislaufwirtschaft.

In the presence of CEO Eelco Spoelder, Autoneum opened its new production facility in Pune in Western India on August 28, 2024. The opening of the third plant in the key automotive market of India is in line with the Company’s strategic focus on future profitable growth with a particular emphasis on Asian growth markets. Series production of carpet systems, interior trim, wheelhouse outer liners, e-motor encapsulations and other noise protection components for local and international vehicle manufacturers has already begun.

The plant in Pune in the western Indian state of Maharashtra is wholly owned by Autoneum and complements the existing production facility in Behror near New Dehli in the north and the joint venture plant in Chennai in the south of India. During the inauguration ceremony in Pune, Autoneum CEO Eelco Spoelder said: “With the opening of our new plant, Autoneum gains access to the third of the four major automobile production centers in India. By expanding our presence in this strategically important region, we can further strengthen our position in Asia, the world’s largest automotive market.”

The building spans an area of 7 500 square meters and includes modern production equipment. The Pune plant will supply both local and international customers with noise-reducing lightweight components for the interior and exterior of vehicles of all drive types. Pune will be the first Autoneum plant in India with the capability to produce Hybrid-Acoustics PET felts for e-motor encapsulation. Components made of Hybrid-Acoustics PET are characterized by their lightweight construction and noise protection that are optimized for electric vehicles. They consist entirely of PET, which is largely obtained from recycled fibers, and thus meet customer demand for environmentally friendly mobility solutions.

As announced in March, Pune is one of two plants that Autoneum is opening this year in the important Asian growth markets of China and India. The new joint venture plant in Changchun in the northern Chinese province of Jilin will ramp up production of inner dashes, interior floor insulators and other NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) components for European, Japanese and Chinese car manufacturers from the end of 2024. Both new plants in Pune and Changchun are strategically located thanks to their proximity to important customers. In India, Autoneum supplies European, American, Indian, Japanese and Korean vehicle manufacturers.

CARBIOS and SASA, a manufacturer of polyester, fiber, filament yarn, polyester-based polymers, specialty polymers and intermediates, have signed a Letter of Intent (LOI) to cooperate through SASA’s potential acquisition of a license for CARBIOS’ unique PET biorecycling technology. This licensing agreement would allow SASA to construct and operate an enzymatic depolymerization plant in Adana, Turkey, with a capacity of 100,000 tons per year of prepared PET waste, and would give access to a circular recycling technology, enabling the production of polyester pellets, fibers and textiles from various waste sources, including polyester textile waste. With CARBIOS' biorecycling technology, SASA would diversify its offering to meet the growing global demand for sustainable materials in the textile industry, primarily catering to the European market.

Less than 1% of textile waste is currently recycled into new textile fibers^[1].  With European regulations moving towards the incorporation of more recycled content (at least 20% of recycled fibers by 2030), demand for recycled polyester in the EU is anticipated to increase, naturally positioning Turkey as a major producer alongside Asian countries.  In this context, SASA is striving to become the largest supplier of high value-added polyester in the region and beyond. To achieve this, SASA aims to introduce recycling as part of its activities, which already encompass the whole value chain from PET production to fiber and textile conversion. CARBIOS’ PET biorecycling technology plays an important part in SASA’s ongoing transformation strategy, which includes back integration, capacity expansion, even higher competitiveness, as well as circularity.

CARBIOS has developed a enzymatic depolymerization technology that enables efficient and solvent-free recycling of PET plastic and textile waste into virgin-like products. CARBIOS has ambitious plans to become a leading technology provider in the recycling of PET by 2035. After the recent announcement of a joint Letter of Intent with Zhink Group in China, this new Letter of Intent for a potential licensing agreement in Europe confirms global traction for CARBIOS biorecycling technology, and marks another significant step in the international roll-out of its licensing model. In addition to the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant which is currently under construction in Longlaville, France, this potential plant in Turkey would process PET waste that is currently not recyclable using conventional recycling technologies.

[1] System Circularity and Innovative Recycling of Textiles | Circular Cities and Regions Initiative (europa.eu)

The first installations of the Trützschler Card TC 30i and the Trützschler Integrated Draw Frame IDF 3 are now complete – and the first customers have finished rigorous testing in direct spinning applications.

The Italian company Marchi & Fildi, headquartered in Biella, was one of the first to test the new IDF 3. The company specializes in producing pure and blended yarns made from natural or man-made fibers for flat knitting, circular knitting and weaving. Its products are used for fashion, furnishings and technical applications worldwide. It also places a strong focus on reducing its environmental impact.

Marchi & Fildi’s first trials were carried out with different fiber blends. This included a blend of 70 % soft waste cotton and 30 % polyester as the raw material for rotor direct spinning, with a yarn count in a range of Ne 8 to Ne 12 and Ne 30.
Later tests involved fiber blends of 50 % PET and 50 % recycled cotton from hard textile waste for rotor direct spinning with a yarn count of Ne 30. Experts at Marchi & Fildi stated that this material blend is typically very challenging. Processing secondary fibers made from hard textile waste requires very high competence in yarn production, which Marchi & Fildi impressively demonstrates. It also requires advanced technologies. This is due to technological challenges such as significantly lower fiber length. Trützschler’s IDF technology has a special drafting zone geometry that ensures reliable fiber guidance and controls floating fibers. It generates lower drafts than a conventional draw frame passage and avoids the risk of false drafts and count variations.

Decades of experience with the IDF technology have demonstrated that the higher the short fiber content, the better the result with IDF compared to conventional two draw frame passages. In combination with the TC 30Ri, a variant of TC 30i that has been specifically equipped and configured for processing recycled fibers, the IDF 3 delivers maximum possible quality for the production of sustainable yarns.

Overall, the company’s results showed a 75 % increase in productivity over the previous card model and a 14 % reduction in energy consumption at higher production rates. Combining the TC 30Ri and IDF 3 also enabled Marchi & Fildi to skip the drawing stage from its process, which boosts quality while saving resources and cutting costs.

Many end-users now expect recycled materials to be in textile products they purchase – and this is driving innovation throughout the industry. However, there are still many technical and economic issues facing yarn and fabric producers using recycled resources. Members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association offer some effective solutions to these challenges.

Synthetic recycled materials such as PET can usually be treated similarly to new yarn, but there are additional complexities where natural fibres like wool and cotton are involved. Today, there’s a trend towards mechanically recycled wool and cotton fibres.

Spinning recycled cotton
The use of mechanically recycled fibres in spinning brings specific quality considerations: they have higher levels of short fibres and neps – and may often be colored, particularly if post-consumer material is used. It’s also true that recycled yarns have limitations in terms of fineness. The Uster Statistics 2023 edition features an extended range of fibre data, supporting sustainability goals, including benchmarks for blends of virgin and recycled cotton.
In general, short fibres such as those in recycled material can easily be handled by rotor spinning machines. For ring spinning, the shorter the fibres, the more difficult it is to guide them through the drafting zone to integrate them into the yarn body. Still, for wider yarn counts and higher yarn quality, the focus is now shifting to ring spinning. The presence of short fibres is a challenge, but Rieter offers solutions to address this issue.

Knitting recycled wool
For recycling, wool fibres undergo mechanical procedures such as shredding, cutting, and re-spinning, influencing the quality and characteristics of the resulting yarn. These operations remove the natural scales and variations in fibre length of the wool, causing a decrease in the overall strength and durability of the recycled yarn. This makes the yarn more prone to breakage, especially under the tension exerted during knitting.

Adapting to process recycled materials often requires adjustments to existing machinery. Knitting machines must be equipped with positive yarn suppliers to control fibre tension. Steiger engages in continuous testing of new yarns on the market, to check their suitability for processing on knitting machines. For satisfactory quality, the challenges intensify, with natural yarns requiring careful consideration and adaptation in the knitting processes.

From fibres to nonwovens
Nonwovens technology was born partly from the idea of recycling to reduce manufacturing costs and to process textile waste and previously unusable materials into fabric structures. Nonwovens production lines, where fibre webs are bonded mechanically, thermally or chemically, can easily process almost all mechanically and chemically recycled fibres.

Autefa Solutions offers nonwovens lines from a single source, enabling products such as liners, wipes, wadding and insulation to be produced in a true closed loop. Fibres are often used up to four times for one product.

Recycling: total strategy
Great services, technology and machines from members of Swiss Textile Machinery support the efforts of the circular economy to process recycled fibres. The machines incorporate the know-how of several decades, with the innovative power and quality standards in production and materials.
Stäubli’s global ESG (environmental, social & governance) strategy defines KPIs in the context of energy consumption, machine longevity and the recycling capacity in production units worldwide, as well in terms of machinery recyclability. The machine recyclability of automatic drawing in machines, weaving systems and jacquard machines ranges from 96 to 99%.

ANDRITZ recently started up a new textile recycling line at Sfilacciatura Negro’s plant in Biella, Italy. Designed for processing post-consumer textile waste with automatic removal of hard parts, the tearing line supports the company’s expansion into new recycling segments.

In view of the growing demand for sustainable fibers in the re-spinning and nonwoven industries, Sfilacciatura Negro Biella decided to expand its recycling capabilities. The company has extensive experience in recycling industrial textile waste and already operates two tearing lines. Based on its long-term collaboration with ANDRITZ, it is now stepping into the recycling of post-consumer clothing waste.

The new generation recycling line ANDRITZ supplied to Sfilacciatura Negro is the result of ten years of close cooperation, trials in its technical center, and visits to customer lines in Spain and Portugal. ANDRITZ has tailored a complete line from feeding of sorted waste bales to baling of the recycled fibers. It is designed for highly efficient, energy-saving operation and features automated separation of hard points while maintaining a good material yield. An automated filtration unit is provided for airflow and dust management. Only one operator is needed to manage the entire line up to the recycled fiber baler. The baler can produce film-wrapped and tied bales with a weight of up to 350 kg.

International technology group ANDRITZ has installed a new spunlace pilot line at its center of competence in Montbonnot, France. It allows customers and partners to conduct trials for producing nonwovens from recycled and/or natural fibers such as hemp, flax, and cotton.

The new pilot line features optimized web forming and entanglement for smooth processing of sensitive and irregular fibers. The innovative card set-up is designed to protect and maintain the quality of the fibers while achieving outstanding productivity rates.

Another special feature of this pilot line is the integrated ANDRITZ Metris digitalization system. It allows the operators to collect and analyze all useful data about the line’s capacity and performance. This is a perfect tool for optimizing costs, saving time and predicting maintenance.

With the new line, the ANDRITZ Nonwoven team now operates two spunlace pilot lines at the Montbonnot technical center. The first line has optimized processes, for instance WetlaceTM, for processing various synthetic and man-made fibers. ANDRITZ process experts ensure that advanced technology and know-how are available under one roof at Montbonnot.