From the Sector

Beaulieu International Group invites EuroGeo7 attendees to discover geotextile solutions promoting greater sustainability for future civil engineering projects. Specialists from Beaulieu Fibres International (BFI) and Beaulieu Technical Textiles (BTT) will present high-performance geosynthetics through high tenacity fibres for lightweight, nonwoven geotextiles, and a range of high durability woven geotextile solutions with an environmentally beneficial impact.

“We are delighted to sponsor EuroGeo7 and to be finally on-site, following a two-year postponement of the event. EuroGeo7 is bringing the geotextile community together to further promote and develop geosynthetics in a fast changing global economy striving for growth while reducing its carbon footprint along the supply chain, " comment from Jefrem Jennard, Sales Director Fibres, and Roy Kerckhove, Sales Director Technical Textiles. “Geotextiles provide highly versatile, durable and natural resource-saving alternatives in large infrastructure works, and offer durable protection in erosion control and waste/water management projects. We are continuously developing our fibres and finished engineering textiles with proven sustainability-enhancing benefits to progress product development and customer sustainability goals on fossil carbon reduction, while taking concrete steps to reduce our own environmental footprint.”
 
Sustainability improvement is key to the long-term strategy of Beaulieu International Group, and it is committed to supporting the geotextile industry by targeting and accelerating change and communicating the sustainable performance of its products. The UN Sustainable Development Goals are integrated into its business and are the foundations of the new Route 2030 Sustainability Roadmap.

For manufacturers of nonwoven geotextiles, BFI’s high-tenacity HT8 staple fibres enable customers to achieve nonwovens with high mechanical performance at reduced fibre weight. The HT8 high tenacity fibres are designed in a way that customers can meet the industry durability standards for a longer service lifetime, supporting more sustainable design and resource reduction over time. BTT’s woven geotextiles are amongst the most sustainable in the industry and provide a wide range of functions, including separation, filtration, reinforcement and erosion control.

BFI and BTT have conducted lifecycle assessments to calculate their activities' carbon footprint and solutions and have received external recognition for their ongoing sustainability efforts. For example, in 2022, BFI was awarded a Silver EcoVadis sustainability rating, and BFI and BTT are proud recipients of the Voka Charter for Sustainable Entrepreneurship 2022.

The world’s largest fashion brands and retailers must increase transparency to tackle the climate crisis and social inequality, according to the latest Fashion Transparency Index.

The seventh edition of the Fashion Transparency Index ranks 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers based on their public disclosure of human rights and environmental policies, practices, and impacts, across their operations and supply chains.

• Brands achieved an average score of just 24%, with nearly a third of brands scoring less than 10%
• The majority of brands (85%) do not disclose their annual production volumes despite mounting evidence of clothing waste around the world
• Most major brands and retailers (96%) do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage

The Index reveals insights into the most pressing issues facing the fashion industry, like:

• As new and proposed legislation focuses on greenwashing claims, almost half of major brands (45%) publish targets on sustainable materials yet only 37% provide information on what constitutes a sustainable material.
• Only 24% of major brands disclose how they minimise the impacts of microfibres despite textiles being the largest source of microplastics in the ocean.
• The vast majority of major brands and retailers (94%) do not disclose the number of workers in their supply chains who are paying recruitment fees. This paints an unclear picture of the risks of forced labour as workers may be getting into crippling debt to accept jobs paying poverty wages.
• While many brands use their channels to talk about social justice, they need to go beyond lip service. Just 8% of brands publish their actions on racial and ethnic equality in their supply chains.

Despite these results, Fashion Revolution is encouraged by increasing supply chain transparency among many major brands, primarily with first-tier manufacturers where the final stage of production occurs, e.g. cutting, sewing, finishing and packing. Nine brands have disclosed their first-tier manufacturers for the first time this year. It is encouraging to see significant progress across market segments including luxury, sportswear, footwear and accessories and across different geographies.

Fashion Revolution’s co-founder and Global Operations Director Carry Somers says: “In 2016, only 5 out of 40 major brands (12.5%) disclosed their suppliers. Seven years later, 121 out of 250 major brands (48%) disclose their suppliers. This clearly demonstrates how the Index incentivises transparency but it also shows that brands really are listening to the millions of people around the world who keep asking them #WhoMadeMyClothes? Our power is in our persistence.”

More key findings from the Fashion Transparency Index 2022:

Progress on transparency in the global fashion industry is still too slow among 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers, with brands achieving an overall average score of just 24%, up 1% from last year
For another year, the initiative has seen major brands and retailers publicly disclose the most information about their policies, commitments and processes on human rights and environmental topics and significantly less about the results, outcomes and impacts of their efforts.

Most (85%) major brands still do not disclose their annual production volumes despite mounting evidence of overproduction and clothing waste
Thousands of tonnes of clothing waste are found globally. However, brands have disclosed more information about the circular solutions they are developing (28%) than on the actual volumes of pre- (10%) and post-production waste they produce (8%). Brands have sat by as waste importing countries foot the bill, resulting in serious human rights and environmental implications.

Just 11% of brands publish a responsible purchasing code of conduct indicating that most are still reluctant to disclose how their purchasing practices could be affecting suppliers and workers
Greater transparency on how brands interact with their suppliers ought to be a first step towards eliminating harmful practices and promoting fair purchasing practices. The poor performance on transparency in this vital area is a missed opportunity for brands to demonstrate they are serious about addressing the root causes of harmful working conditions, including the instances where they themselves are the key driver.

Despite the urgency of the climate crisis, less than a third of major brands disclose a decarbonisation target covering their entire supply chain which is verified by the Science-Based Targets Initiative
Many brands and retailers rely heavily on garment producing countries that are vulnerable to the impacts of the climate crisis, yet our research shows that only 29% of major brands and retailers publish a decarbonisation target covering their operations and supply chain which is verified by the Science Based Targets Initiative.

Only 11% of brands publish their supplier wastewater test results, despite the textile industry being a leading contributor to water pollution
The fashion industry is a major contributor to water pollution and one of the most water intensive industries on the planet. Only 11% of major brands publish their wastewater test result, and only 25% of brands disclose the process of conducting water-related risk assessments in their supply chain. Transparency on wastewater test results is key to ensuring that brands are held accountable for their potentially devastating impacts on local biodiversity, garment workers and their communities.

Most major brands and retailers (96%) do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage nor do they disclose if they isolate labour costs
Insufficient progress is being made by most brands towards ensuring that the workers in their supply chain are paid enough to cover their basic needs and put aside some discretionary income. Just 27% of brands disclose their approach to achieving living wages for supply chain workers and 96% do not publish the number of workers in their supply chain paid a living wage. In response, we have joined forces with allies across civil society to launch Good Clothes, Fair Pay. The campaign demands groundbreaking living wage legislation across the garment, textile and footwear sector.

In 2015, adidas Originals launched the NMD silhouette – taking cues from the brand’s inimitable archive in order to create a shoe that disrupted the sneaker world at the time. Six years later and the Trefoil has returned with an updated take on the original innovator, channeling the very same independent mindset to present the  NMD V3.

Built for a life in motion, the NMD V3 reimagines its own iconic heritage with a distinctly forward thinking vision. The silhouette features a re-engineered mesh that wraps around the foot, a transparent heel clip, and BOOST cushioning that’s partially encapsulated in a TPU shell. The NMD V3 also comprises an upper made with a high-performance yarn which contains at least 50% Parley Ocean Plastic – re-imagined plastic waste, intercepted on remote islands, beaches, coastal communities and shorelines – and 50% recycled polyester.

Freudenberg Performance Materials is introducing Freudenberg Friction Inserts to trade visitors at WindEnergy, the leading trade fair for the international wind energy industry. Freudenberg Friction Inserts is a unique technology aimed at increasing the power density of wind turbines.

The Freudenberg Friction Inserts (FFI) technology is based on a special very thin nonwoven carrier material coated on one side with hard particles. The FFI are customized to fit each application, in terms of both the geometry and the construction parameters of the connection. As they do not create a gap they can be applied exactly where they are needed.

When placed in the joint, these hard particles penetrate into the surfaces of the two joining parts creating a micro interlock, thus reliably increasing the friction coefficient and achieving higher torque transmission in connections. This results in higher performance and a significant improvement in the efficiency of wind turbines. In addition, it enables the downsizing of components without compromising performance, reducing weight and material.

FFI help to improve the reliability of connections and thus of the entire wind turbine. Furthermore, they eliminate slipping and prevent fretting of connections.

Other examples of applications for FFI are highly loaded flange connections between the rotor shaft and gearbox, connections between the main bearing and the machine carrier housing, the gearbox to generator, or at the pitch gear or ring gear. They increase the friction co-efficient between two components.

• Rising global demand for particularly high-performance silicon carbide (SiC)-based semiconductors

• Increase in production capacities at the Shanghai (China), St. Marys (USA) and Meitingen (Germany) sites

SGL Carbon will significantly increase capacities for the production of graphite products for the semiconductor industry by 2024. As part of the investment budget for the Business Unit Graphite Solutions set out in the medium-term planning, a mid-range double-digit million euro amount will be made available for the expansion of production over the next two years. The company is thus responding to the strong growth in demand in this sector and strengthening its commitment to the global megatrend of digitalization.

The expansion program will take place in several steps over the next two years. In St. Marys, North America, and at the Chinese site in Shanghai, capacities for purification and for high-precision, computer-controlled processing of graphite components and felts will be expanded. In Meitingen (Germany), a new plant for the production of carbonized and graphitized soft felt is under construction. Further capacity expansions at various locations are being planned.

• Sales increase of 10.7% to €549.8 million in the first half of 2022
• EBITDApre improves by 22.6%, higher than the increase in sales, to €87.9 million
• Positive business development, price increases and strict cost management led to forecast increase on June 7, 2022

Despite uncertain general conditions in the first six months 2022, SGL Carbon's business model is proving its resilience. After €270.9 million in Q1 2022, SGL Carbon was able to increase sales to €278.9 million in Q2. Accordingly, sales for the first half of 2022 amount to €549.8 million, which corresponds to a sales plus of €53.1 million or 10.7% compared to the same period of the previous year.

The increase in sales was driven in particular by customers in the semiconductor industry and growth in the industrial applications market segment. Demand from the automotive and chemical industries was also encouraging.

EBITDApre, as one of the Group's key performance indicators, improved by €16.2 million (+22.6%) to €87.9 million (H1 2021: €71.7 million). Consequently, the EBITDApre margin increased from 14.4% to 16.0%. In addition to the higher utilization of production capacities due to higher sales, the improvement in earnings was also driven by the largely successful passing-on of higher raw material and energy costs to customers as well as savings from the transformation program.

EBITDApre does not include positive one-off effects and non-recurring items totaling €10.6 million (H1 2021: minus €5.2 million). As a result, EBIT in H1 2022 increased significantly from €38.3 million to €69.6 million. Taking into account the financial result of minus €16.6 million (H1 2021: minus €14.0 million), consolidated net income for the first six months of the current fiscal year amounted to €48.8 million, compared to €17.9 million in the prior-year period.

Business Units
With an increase in sales of €22.2 million (+10.0%) to €243.4 million, the Graphite Solutions (GS) business unit made a major contribution to SGL Carbon’s sales growth. In particular, continued high demand from customers in the semiconductor sector, which represents approximately one third of the segment's sales, led to the positive business development in GS. As a result of the predominantly high-margin business, EBITDApre at GS improved by 22.7% to €54.0 million.

The Process Technology (PT) business unit benefited from the good order situation in the chemical industry in H1 2022 and consequently increased sales to €49.2 million (H1 2021: € 40.8 million). EBITDApre also improved from €0.1 million in the prior year’s first half to €4.1 million in H1 2022.

The Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit benefited in the 1st half 2022 from final deliveries to a major automotive manufacturer whose contract expired as scheduled on June 30, 2022. Segment sales increased by 5.8% year-on-year to €176.0 million. In contrast, EBITDApre at CF decreased by €4.2 million to €28.2 million despite the good order situation and successful price increases. It should be noted that CF was impacted by a special effect from energy derivatives for price hedging in the amount of €9.2 million in the first quarter of 2022.

With an increase in sales of 15.6% to €69.6 million, the Composite Solutions (CS) business unit continued its upward trend. The specialist for customized component solutions for the automotive industry improved its EBITDApre from €5.7 million in the first half of 2021 to the current €9.7 million, based in particular on price and volume effects.

Balance sheet figures
Working capital rose by 11.7% to €381.1 million as of June 30, 2022. This was mainly due to higher inventories (€ +73.9 million) and an offsetting increase in trade payables (€ +29.0 million). A targeted build-up of inventories in critical raw materials due to disruptions in transport routes and the recent Covid lockdown in Shanghai were some of the reasons for the higher inventory levels.

SGL Carbon's net financial debt slightly increased by €6.6 million to €212.9 million as of June 30, 2022 (Dec. 31, 2021: €206.3 million), which was due to a lower free cash flow of €7.5 million for H1 2022 (H1 2021: €56.6 million).

Guidance increase
On June 7, 2022, SGL Carbon raised its sales and earnings guidance for fiscal year 2022. The company now expects sales of €1.1 billion (previously: around €1.0 billion) and EBITDApre of €130 - 150 million (previously: €110 - 130 million). Based on the pleasing business development, realized price increases, a stringent cost management, and taking into account the currently known risks, SGL’s management expects to achieve the earnings forecast for 2022 at the upper end of the stated range.

Lower volumes due to geopolitical developments and the sharp rise in inflation impacted the result in the first half of 2022. In a slightly declining market, Autoneum increased revenue in local currencies by 0.5%. At CHF 888.7 million, revenue in Swiss francs reached the previous year's level. Despite the challenging environment, Autoneum achieved a positive operating result of CHF 6.4 million (EBIT margin: 0.7%). The net result decreased to CHF –12.8 million. On the other hand, Autoneum was able to generate a solid free cash flow of CHF 45.2 million. A high demand for sustainable products for electric vehicles confirms that Autoneum is well positioned for this growing market of the future.

Current geopolitical developments substantially affected business performance in the first half of 2022. They are accompanied by accelerating inflation and significant price increases in the commodities markets, which the war in Ukraine has further exacerbated. These developments are also delaying market recovery in the automotive industry. Autoneum does everything it can to minimize the impact on the Group. Despite the present challenges, we will continue to implement our strategy, focusing on innovative and sustainable technologies for growing markets of the future.

• Revenue development influenced by the war in Ukraine and supply chain bottlenecks*
• Low production volumes and high inflation impact profitability*
• Solid free cash flow enables further reduction in net debt*
• Business Groups*
• Well positioned for e-mobility and sustainability*
• Expanding the product portfolio for electric vehicles*
• Autoneum joins the Science Based Targets initiative*

Outlook
According to global market forecasts¹, automobile production will pick up again in the second half of the year with growth of 8.8% compared with the first half-year 2022. For full-year 2022, global automobile production is projected to reach 80.8 million vehicles, which is equivalent to a 4.7% increase on 2021. Based on the market forecasts, Autoneum expects to improve the operating result for the second half of the year. This will be supported by ongoing customer negotiations with a view to fair sharing of costs, the accompanying contribution of vehicle manufacturers to shouldering the sharp increases in material, energy and transport costs and the foreseeable normalization of production after the easing of lockdown measures in China. On this basis, Autoneum expects substantially enhanced results for full-year 2022, as well as an improvement in the EBIT margin to 2.0% to 3.0%. Free cash flow is expected to be in the mid to high double-digit million range for the full year 2022.

*For more information see attached document

¹Source: IHS “Light Vehicle Production Forecasts” – July 15, 2022

adidas Basketball in collaboration with basketball GOAT and legend, Candace Parker , unveils the new Candace Parker Collection Part II with retail partner DICK’S Sporting Goods. Rooted in a shared commitment to empower aspiring women athletes and hoopers – who like Parker set out to create their own legacy, the encore collection is the embodiment of Parker’s evolution on-and-off the court melding Ace’s style and performance insights for the next generation player.

The Candace Parker Collection Part II launches with the all-new Exhibit B, arriving in three custom colorways employing Lightstrike cushioning for fluid and dynamic handling. Each iteration of Parker's Exhibit Bs are inspired by her personal journey beginning with the “For Lailaa Nicole” receiving emerald green with silver accents in honor of her daughter. As for Parker, it’s not about “wearing the crown,” but about “sharing it” resulting in “Game Royalty”, a purple and gold colorway representing African queens followed by an ash blue and shadow navy for “Windy City” version signifying the hometown hero’s 2022 league title and rounded out by three unique Exhibit B “Elevated Team” colorways emphasizing the magic of teamwork.

The Candace Parker Collection Part II is an elevation for the new generation of athletes completed with a vibrant combination of pre to post-game apparel offerings including signature Ace sweatsuits, cropped jackets and hoodies, all paired with an assortment of tees and shorts that harken back to pivotal moments in Parker’s career. The return of inclusive sizing is paramount and purposeful, allowing Parker’s vision for expanded access to female and non-binary athletes who’ve traditionally had to size down to access men’s basketball apparel and footwear.

• Commitment for a sustainable fashion industry

RadiciGroup participated in the third edition of PHYGITAL SUSTAINABILITY EXPO, which took place on 11 and 12 July in Rome. The event was focused on the ecological transition of fashion and design brands through technological innovation.

During the “narrated fashion show”, at the archaeological site of the Museo Dei Fori Imperiali, two sustainable garments by RadiciGroup were shown: the first completely recyclable ski suit made with recycled nylon and the Yamamay swimsuit made with polyester yarn obtained from recycling of plastic bottles.

Yamamay chose the sustainable polyester yarn Repetable® by RadiciGroup, for its new green beachwear proposal, with the aim of combining beauty and sustainability. Repetable is an innovative polyester yarn obtained through a process of recycling plastic bottles. Compared to virgin polyester, Repetable allows lower CO₂ emissions (-45%), lower water consumption (-90%) and lower energy consumption (-60%), while guaranteeing high performance. The new line “Edit” by Yamamay, which includes the swimsuit made with Repetable, has already been on the market since the end of last May.

The participation of RadiciGroup in the PHYGITAL SUSTAINABILITY EXPO represents further confirmation of the Group commitment to creating a fashion industry that is increasingly respectful of the environment, thanks to the involvement of all the players in the supply chain, which are most sensitive to sustainability.

• Goal: to further reduce the textile value chain’s impact on people and planet      

As the textile industry continues to grapple with evolving regulations, increased consumer and stakeholder pressure to meet sustainability goals, and the lack of verified data, bluesign® has updated its service offerings to help brands, manufacturers and chemical companies to better understand and manage their value chains.

The new initiatives expand Bluesign’s core competencies of reducing impact across the supply chain, providing reliable, third-party verified data, mitigating the use of hazardous chemicals through input stream management and replacing substances with bluesign® APPROVED chemistry (a positive list of chemical products with less impact on people and planet). Bluesign’s high value services are available for all companies willing to reduce the impact of their value chain without compromising on quality.     

Bluesign is extending its System Partnership services and launching DATA SERVICES and IMPACT SERVICES for brands and manufacturers. These tiered service packages provide expanded capabilities that enable brands to actively monitor and manage their supply chain through Bluesign verified impact data, covering the critical measures of water consumption, energy consumption, greenhouse gas emissions, chemical consumption, and waste.

DATA SERVICES allow brands and manufacturers to access data from its unique supply chain and give a snapshot of their impact. Through the IMPACT SERVICE package, companies are provided this data plus a foundational assessment of its overall performance and detailed analysis of its suppliers.

The new IMPACT SERVICE enables manufacturers to present their achievements in impact reduction and their excellence in resource management.  The new tiered packages will allow companies to incrementally implement Bluesign’s services with the ultimate goal of attaining full SYSTEM PARTNERSHIP which includes company-specific action plans. At all service levels, a yearly impact report or dashboard is provided; access to this data enables accurate analysis for decision-making and reporting both internally and externally.