From the Sector

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) presented a new online film series: Fashion Redressed. Produced by BBC StoryWorks Commercial Productions, the captivating series intends to inspire the industry to take action to transform the way we produce and consume fashion.

Every day we express ourselves through our clothes. Encompassing cultures, personalities, traditions and beliefs, fashion is core to how we present ourselves to the outside world. But our consumption of fashion and clothing is pushing our planet and societies to its limits. Fashion trendsetters and pioneers are working to meet this challenge head-on with game-changing ideas. At the heart of this is the question: how can we keep expressing all we do through fashion, but without hurting the planet?
 
Focused on finding the answers, Fashion Redressed, comprises multiple films that showcase organisations from across the fashion and textile industries. Launched on a BBC.com microsite, the series spotlights the innovations across the world that are influencing the new seasons of fashion, featuring a collection of stories that depict tailor-made solutions to fit us and our planet.
 
The 11 self-contained branded films showcase a range of participants including: eBay, Elk, The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, Vestiaire Collective, Spinnova, Lenzing, Faherty, FarFetch, Waste2Wear, Colorifix and Forest Stewardship Council. Each film focuses on a bespoke solution that can benefit us and the planet. From the scientist taking inspiration from silk-spinning spiders in Helsinki and the duo taking a deep dive into the genetic makeup of colour in Cambridge, to the pre-loved clothes being brought to life on a global platform from Paris and the importance of cultural appreciation in Arizona, fashion gathers the most creative and innovative minds. This series expresses the dynamism and creativity of the fashion world, spotlighting the people weaving change into the fibres of fashion and those who are working to find the stylish side of a more sustainable sector.
 
The series was unveiled ahead of GFA’s landmark event – Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition – on 27 September. The forum will bring together fashion stakeholders for agenda-setting discussions and productive meetings on critical environmental and social issues.

The Südwolle collection of yarns for weaving and circular knitting continues its evolutionary path based on the key concept of Responsibility. This principle guides Südwolle Group's commitment and engagement regarding all areas of business and stakeholders - the environment, the textile industry production chain, consumers, employees and the social repercussions of its business.

The intersection between these 6 areas has resulted in a collection in which the concept of seasonality is blurred, and products have a flexible, versatile use. The use of cutting-edge technology means yarns offer a high level of quality, suitable for apparel with outstanding durability, a factor that helps to reduce the environmental impact of textile waste and disposable fashion.

Overview of the collection
The collection is divided into 4 themes.
Natural, biodegradable or recycled fibre blends intended for crepe and crinkled fabrics are characterized by substantial twist and a high level of performance. The selection of fibres is oriented towards sustainability, with wool and silk organze combined with LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM viscose and Q-NOVA® regenerated polyamide.

Fuji crepe X-compact Nm 40/1 Z 1050 (40% wool 21.2 μ, 60% FSC certified LENZINGTM viscose EV), new this season, features a smooth look and no pilling thanks to the use of X-compact spinning technology, which produces yarns with excellent performance and durability.

When it comes to light, natural blends, wool and linen or wool, linen and silk blends follow the trend for softly fluid structures, such as the new Peschici Nm 42/1 Z 600 (53% wool 18.4 μ, 23% linen, 24% silk), with a fresh, dry handle and very current dappled effect, which results from the skilful combination of different fibres.

Contributing to a more sustainable and traceable textile production also involves attention to all fibres used. Mohair used for luxury yarns in noble fibres is strictly RMS (Responsible Mohair Standard) certified, which traces its origin, guaranteeing animal welfare and production according to responsible standards, similar to the analogous RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) used for wool. Bosforo RWS RMS Nm 32/1 Z 950 (20% wool 20.8 μ RWS, 60% FSC certified LENZINGTM viscose EV, 20% RMS Kid Mohair) is a fresh, bright yarn that is soft on the skin, suitable for trans-seasonal products, an example of careful selection of raw materials.

Among the fancy yarns, delicately animated structures predominate for naturally elegant creations, represented by Niche Nm 34/2 S 460 (42% wool 21.2 μ, 58% bourette silk), a twisted yarn in wool and bourette silk, which adds dynamism with its characteristic rough, knotty surface.

Textil Santanderina, a manufacturer of quality fabrics with controlled traceability, launched its Advanced Black denim collection in collaboration with Archroma.

The Advanced Black collection by Textil Santanderina uses Archroma’s new DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ dyestuff to produce on-trend authentic black denim apparel with sustainability and resource savings. In addition to allowing fashion and apparel brands to choose eco-friendlier alternatives that demonstrate their commitment to protecting people and planet, Textil Santanderina’s new Advanced Black denim range also offers unique shade and wash-down effects.

Based on synthesis technology developed by Archroma, DIRESUL EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ delivers an overall impact reduction to 57%*, measuring its effect on human health, ecosystems and resources compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid. Unlike traditional synthesis processes, it does not produce any ammonia, sodium salts waste or liquid effluents, and water consumption in the synthesis process is reduced by 73% for massive savings. The new DIRESUL dyestuff, when adopted with the full Archroma coloration system, delivers a new black color with on-tone wash-down effect and cleaner effluent at the mill.

Textil Santanderina and Archroma previously collaborated to produce Textil Santanderina’s aniline-free** indigo denim collection with the use of DENISOL® PURE INDIGO.

*As determined by Ecoterrae, a leading Spain-based sustainability consulting firm, through a Life Cycle Analysis (UNE-EN ISO 14044:2006) at the synthesis stage, using the ReCiPe 2016 Impact calculation methodology.
**Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods.

The project "A Dress For Venice" get on the Red Carpet at the Venice Film Festival to advocate for sustainability. September 7th, actress Margot Sikabonyi will wear a dress from the collection designed by conscious designer Tiziano Guardini, illustrated by artist Jacopo Ascari, and produced by Martina Vidal Venezia, with the following materials:

• Bemberg™: The innovative and biodegradable fiber from the Japanese company Asahi Kasei.
• Burano lace: Produced by the historic Martina Vidal Venezia for four generations.

"Returning to Venice and experiencing the emotions of this place and the artists who have enriched it is exhilarating," says Tiziano Guardini. "It's a work based on volumes, shapes, three-dimensionality, colours and materials research… from Mariano Fortuny to the Ottoman Empire's Turcherie."

Illustrator Ascari adds, "I started with a careful study of the works of Canaletto, Guardi and Bellotto, masterpieces of Eighteenth-Century Vedutismo. I portrayed new perspectives on the city's splendour, enhanced by Guardini's vibrant shapes and color choices."

On Thursday, September 7th, at 12:30, in the Veneto Region's room at the Hotel Excelsior on Lido, Elena Donazzan, Councilor for Education, Training, Employment, and Equal Opportunities, will present the project alongside its creators Laura Scarpa and Lorenzo Cinotti of Venezia da Vivere, designer Tiziano Guardini, artist Jacopo Ascari, and actress Margot Sikabonyi.

"We conceived A Dress For Venice for Homo Faber in 2019, to celebrate Venice's 1600 years of craftsmanship," explains Laura Scarpa. "This year, the research extends to sustainable innovation thanks to an international team of designers, artisans and companies," continues Lorenzo Cinotti.

The project reaffirms Venice's role as an international laboratory to reflect on the planet's future. "A Dress For Venice" is a limited-edition collection realized with the support of a network of companies identified by the Tavolo Veneto della Moda (Confartigianato, CNA, Confindustria, Confesercenti and Confcommercio of Veneto), the global platform C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), the partnership of Camera Buyer Italia and the media partnership of The Italian Rêve.

The presentation of the collection to buyers will take place at the Marina Guidi showroom in mid-September, while it will have its dedicated exhibition on Friday, October 20th, during the Venice Fashion Week.

"A Dress for Venice" is endorsed by the Comune di Venezia, the Regione del Veneto, and Homo Faber - Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte, which promotes worldwide high craftsmanship and savoir-faire.

Partners in the project Infinity srl and Tessitura Grisotto, renowned Italian textile manufacturers who expertly craft Bemberg™ fiber into exquisite fabrics. Creazioni Digitali, a specialized company in sublimation digital printing, carries out the prints on Bemberg™ textiles with its unique project GreenDrop; with inks that reduces the water consumption.

Other partners include Marina Iremonger, Camera Buyer Italia, and the Tavolo Veneto della Moda, representing Confartigianato, CNA, Confindustria, Confcommercio, and Confesercenti.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the conference program for Hygienix™ 2023, November 13-16 to be held at The Roosevelt New Orleans Hotel, New Orleans, LA.

The program details can be found on the Hygienix website.

The keynote speaker is Courtney Scharf, Chief Client Officer, Trend Hunter. Trend Hunter leverages big data, human researchers, and AI to identify consumer insights, and deep dive opportunities for the world’s most innovative companies, such as Unilever, Colgate-Palmolive, Georgia-Pacific, Kroger, Johnson & Johnson, Reckitt Benckiser, Samsung, and Bacardi. Trend Hunter utilizes Artificial Intelligence and research to identify and curate top insights and trends to advise brands and businesses in their pursuit of innovation.

The Hygienix program will feature thought leaders in consumer-centric innovations, the circular economy, raw material advancements in sustainability, opportunities for advanced recycling in absorbent hygiene, optimizing the packaging footprint, new approaches for odor control, and market trends and drivers.

Experts presenting at Hygienix include:

• Aquapak Polymers Ltd. – “Creating Sustainable Nonwovens for Hygiene Applications with Thermally Processable Polyvinyl Alcohol; A Water Soluble, Environmentally Friendly and High-Performance Polymer”
• Asahi Kasei Advance Corporation – “Continuous-Filament Cellulose Nonwovens”
• Confitex Technology – “Reusables Production: It’s Not All Green”
• Egal Pads, Inc. – “Closing the Circularity Gap One Used Pad at a Time”
• Essity – “Diaper Collection & Recycling in Australia”
• ExxonMobil Chemical Company – “Innovate New Levels of Strong Comfort with Hygiene Solutions”
• Henkel Corporation – “Reducing the Packaging Waste from Personal Hygiene Products”
• INNOVATEGRN – “Accelerating Innovation / Embracing a Consumer-Centric Approach”
• Kuraray Europe GmbH – “Safe and Eco-friendly Elastics for Absorbent Hygiene Products”
• Nexus Circular – “Increasing Plastics Circularity for the Hygiene Segment Through Advanced Recycling”
• W. Pelz GmbH –“Disposable Pads Meet Reusable Underwear”
• Price Hanna Consultants – “Squaring the Circle: Why Demonstration Projects = Good Sustainability Strategy” and “Wellness and Natural Materials”
• Rem Brands, Inc. – “Effective Reduction of Material Odors, In-use Odors, and Post-use Odors”
• Sequel – “Spiraling into Business: How a Dramatic Innovation to the Tampon Met the World’s Largest Manufacturer of Feminine Hygiene”
• Sparkle Innovations Inc. – Sustainability and Circularity in the Absorbent Hygiene Products Industry”

The Hygienix program will offer a hands-on workshop as well as two pre-conference webinars. Jim Robinson, Principal, Absorbent Hygiene Insights, LLC, will lead the in-person workshop on AHP Absorbent Hygiene Systems, Monday afternoon, November 13th. This workshop evaluates SAP absorption for different SAPs and participants have the opportunity to deconstruct and examine several hygiene products including infant, adult, and period care products to increase the understanding of these systems.

Baldwin Technology Co. Inc. has launched PrintEnomic$, a new online resource of specialized eBooks and resources for corrugated, narrow web and sheet-fed and web offset printers at PrintEnomics.com.

The collection of Baldwin videos, podcasts and instructional guides are available for free and without firewalls to help maximize printer profitability. The eBooks analyze trends, issues, and technology options specific to printers in all three categories.

More than 5,000 print industry professionals have already downloaded or viewed earlier, limited-release eBooks “Untangling the Web” for narrow web and “From Beast to Beauty” for corrugated. The addition of “Video Didn't Kill the Radio Star. And Digital Didn't Kill Print” for sheet-fed and web offset printers completes the comprehensive PrintEnomic$ portfolio.
 
Through interviews with customers, industry insiders, in-house engineers – and reviews of the latest reporting – the eBooks explore pressing topics including sustainability, labor challenges, counterfeiting, and brand protection.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, was highlighted for its advanced sustainable practices and innovation in Pakistan by the Swiss Embassy. Foreign Minister of Switzerland, Mr. Ignazio Cassis who was on an official state visit to Pakistan visited Archroma Center of Excellence at Karachi on 9 July 2023 along with high-level officials and three Members of Swiss Parliament.

Mr. Ignazio Cassis was greeted by Archroma employees at the Archroma Center of Excellence. He inaugurated the company’s "Wall of Pride", an impressive collection of recognitions, accolades and honors earned by Archroma in Pakistan since the company’s inception in October 2013.

Mr. Cassis visited the Research & Technology (R&T), Application, Analytical Laboratories & Training Academy spread on three floors at the Archroma Center of Excellence and saw the developmental work in progress. He was shown printing of multi-colored fabrics along with research based developmental analysis in the laboratories.

The globally acclaimed ‘Zero Liquid Discharge Sustainable Effluent Treatment Plant’ and the aniline-free* indigo produced at Jamshoro were the two of the main highlights showcased as best-in-class sustainable practices in the industry. Presentations and discussions were held on continued enhancement of these landmarks with the local industry.

The priority of sweater manufacturers has always been to select ingredients and fibers that are soft, hypoallergenic, and of the finest quality to meet consumer expectations that their sweaters are comfortable yet durable and easy to care for. According to the recent Eastman consumer study of sweater lovers, the sweaters consumers want to add to their wardrobes are soft, comfortable, stylish, and versatile. However, consumers are very disappointed when their sweaters look and feel differently after wearing and washing. Choosing fibers and materials that deliver comfort, quality and ease of care is essential to win with consumers. Today, these are compounded by the ever-present consumer demand for a sustainable paradigm. The promise of Naia™ from Eastman is exactly to make sustainable style accessible to brands and inclusive for everyone through a portfolio of fibers that doesn’t compromise on quality, comfort, or garment care.

The results of soft and cozy blends between the versatile Naia™ fibers and other materials can be appreciated in the collections of Naadam and The Gap, which this year presented its third collection of men's sweaters blended with Naia™ and cotton. By using Naia™ blended knits in their collections, brands are not just choosing a sustainable ingredient, but also a certified and circular supply chain: all Naia™ cellulosic fiber is produced in a safe, closed-loop process where solvents are recycled back into the system for reuse. Eastman Naia™ partners with Textiles Genesis to provide track and trace solutions for brands. All Naia™ fibers are OEKO-TEX™ STANDARD 100 certified, ensuring no use of hazardous chemicals, and certified by TÜV AUSTRIA as biodegradable and compostable, also in the ocean, as supported by a recently published ocean degradation study conducted by Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI).

Naia™ fibers are designed to create unlimited possibilities for uncompromising, sustainable style: among these, Naia™ Renew staple fiber permits to create eco-conscious blends that are supremely soft, quick-drying and consistently reduce pilling which are ideal for T-shirts, casual wear, sweaters, comfy pants and home textiles. Produced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% certified* recycled waste materials, Naia™ Renew creates the same top-quality fabrics as traditional Naia™ fibers, but with a reduced carbon footprint of around 35% — and it’s available at scale. The innovative cellulosic acetate materials can be blended with cotton, modal, merino wool, recycled polyester, or multiple content fancy yarns. Naia™ blended yarns deliver super softness for supreme wearing comfort in knitwear, and sweaters made with Naia™ Renew can have good dimensional stability and shape retention even after multiple washes. Versatile Naia™ denier sizes can be used in different yarn spinning processes, giving the yarn spinners freedom of creativity for trendy yarn designs perfect for year-round basic sweaters with good quality and a durable look. The unique cross section of Naia™ staple fibers enables designs that accommodate four seasons of wearing comfort.

In Fall/Winter 2023, Y-3 (partnership between adidas and Yohji Yamamoto) returns to present the third chapter of its year long exploratory narrative – with the subversive label taking athletic iconography, silhouettes, and materials and recontextualising them through through the lens of Yohji Yamamoto’s renegade design vision.

Inspired by adidas’ inimitable sporting legacy, Chapter 3’s apparel collection sees Y-3 evolve the collegiate motifs of previous seasons, for an entirely new context. Drawing on vintage varsity style lettering, an array of graphics are applied to jackets, t-shirts, and hoodies, in kettle stitch embroidery, chenille patches, puff prints, and engineered knits. A curated offering of quilted pieces, with cutlines inspired by the adidas Originals Aloxe tracksuit, completes the apparel highlights with a selection of jackets, vests, skirts, and pants.  

The collection is then rounded out by a host of bold accessories including elevated totes, gym bags, backpacks, body bags, knit beanies, caps, and more.  

Having traversed Yohji Yamamoto’s homeland of Japan for the brand’s Spring/Summer 2023 campaigns, the seasonal story journeys to adidas’ mother country of Germany, to capture Berlin’s unique, energetic, and prolific creative community. Shot by local photographer, Lengua, and motion director Thyago Sainte, the stills, moving images, and short film spotlight an enigmatic cast of musical figures that call Berlin home in personally resonant locations.

During the second quarter of 2023, the orders index for textile machinery, as compiled by the Economics Department of ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, dropped significantly compared to 2022 April – June 2022 period (-30%). In absolute terms, the index stood at 85.1 points (basis 2015=100).

This drop is the result of a reduction in the collection of new orders recorded by manufacturers both domestically and on foreign markets. The decrease in orders in Italy amounted to 21%, whereas a 31% downtrend was observed abroad. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets settled at 81.9 points, while in Italy it stands at 117.2 points. New orders for the second quarter amounted to 4.1 months of guaranteed production. ACIMIT’s data also shows that the use of production capacity by Italian manufacturers was 70% for the first half of 2023. This percentage is expected to remain stable for the second half of the year.

ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè stated that, “The orders index for the second quarter elaborated by our Economics Department clearly shows a decline in new orders both in Italy and abroad compared to the previous year. The decline that usually precedes an event such as ITMA, the international textile machinery exhibition held last June in Milan, however, is part of a negative trend that has been going on for several quarters”.

Uncertainty appears to be weighing heavily especially on markets abroad, where foreign trade statistics updated to the first quarter of 2023 are marked by a slackening in Italian sales in some important reference markets, such as Turkey, China, the United States and Pakistan.

Salvadè added that, “Feedback from over 400 Italian companies that took part in ITMA is positive. It’s now necessary for the many contacts made during the event to materialize and for the demand for machinery in the main textile machinery markets to resume a path towards growth.”