From the Sector

Driven by its natural inclination for the implementation of smart and innovative solutions fully in line with the latest global fashion trends, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Parisian tradeshow for lingerie, and activewear materials and accessories.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their approach and to their solid and continued commitment, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).
A relevant achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Label collection (a peculiar range that features a 360-degree responsible approach) make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, Tencel™ Lyocell and Q-Nova® by Fulgar.

Of major interest is the fact that the Iluna fashion R&D based its strategic choice for the S/S2020 on the extension of Textronic offer, that belongs to Ultralight series, enriched with new multicolor galloons and raschel allovers. The change of the color of thread in the background as well as in the design gives the green to the reinvention of the same article now perceived in a completely different and impactful way.

CHOMARAT, the specialist in composite & construction reinforcements and coated fabrics, has demonstrated the Group’s determination to pursue a sustainable process by earning environmental management (ISO 14001) and energy management (ISO 50001) certification for its French sites. “By obtaining both ISO 14001 and ISO 50001 certification, CHOMARAT now has a tested and standardized framework for developing an effective, sustainable environmental and energy management strategy,” says CHOMARAT Environment and Energy Manager Laurent VÉRITÉ.

Minimizing environmental impacts & optimizing energy use
ISO 50001 certification is validation of efficient energy management, with the bonus of lower energy consumption and the tools needed to address a warming climate. ISO 14001 certification is based on standards and requirements, and it constitutes an international benchmark for environmental management systems. “CHOMARAT is committed to a responsible and sustainable process for all of its activities in France. With ISO 14001 certification, the Group is incorporating environmental requirements into its management and production systems,” explains CHOMARAT France CEO Raphaël LAURENT.

Pursuing a long-term strategy
This twofold certification is in keeping with CHOMARAT’s long-term vision. “Our strategy is implemented through new investments and international development. But the Group is also actively involved in sustainable development and a sustainable innovation initiative,” explains Raphaël LAURENT. Measures that have been implemented include reducing the noise level, preventing pollution risks and improving waste management. Fluorescent lighting has been replaced by LEDs; new, more energy-efficient equipment has been installed; and the heating and air-conditioning ductwork has been insulated to reduce fuel-oil consumption.
“It is thanks to the combined efforts of all CHOMARAT’s teams that we were able to obtain these two certifications. For us, this is our first milestone towards a sustainable economy,” concludes Laurent VÉRITÉ.

• Performance Days - November 28 and 29, 2018 – Hall C1 Booth B18
• Two of TINTEX’s fabrics have made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category that represents fabrics which are a valuable contribution to this season Performance Days Focus Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”

See, touch and experience the latest collection from TINTEX as they reveal a wonderful range of innovative fabrics that redefine fashion, inspire creativity, spark emotion and optimize responsible solutions. TINTEX, being an ingenious leader in textile and research innovation for over twenty years, transforms a new generation of cotton and other natural based materials. Established in the Porto region as authorities in superior dyeing and finishing techniques making TINTEX Textiles the perfect choice for fashion.

All the recent awards bestowed, demonstrate TINTEX continue research and commitment. They have been awarded for the Best product of the Base Layer Category by ISPO jury, moreover they have just received the prestigious German Design Awards 2019 and last but not least, they are selected as finalists for the Future Textile Awards in the category Best Innovation for Sustainable Textiles.
TINTEX continues to lead the way, as they proudly take part in the Make Fashion Circular initiative, by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation and activate change industry wide. This initiative aims to collaborate and innovate towards a new textile economy based on the principles of a Circular Economy.

In addition, since this November, TINTEX is a bluesign® system partner, thus means that they are responsibly acting parties of the textile value chain committed to applying the bluesign® system, continuously improving their environmental performance and always been focused on a sustainable future.

A milestone for TINTEX and fashion, as they launch Naturally Clean - an exceptional smart finishing process that is uniquely responsible. Naturally Clean enhances the natural beauty of cotton, takes a cost effective modern approach to eliminate aggressive treatments and optimizes clean surfaces, vivid colors, providing an exquisitely smooth handfeel. Naturally Clean achieves this by using Novozymes technology, a company that is indeed the world leader in biological solutions. Second, using textile chemicals with the lowest possible environmental impact, without compromising performance, from Beyond Surface Technologies AG. Naturally Clean maintains the original characteristics for an extended period of time. All materials are Oeko-Tex and soon bluesign® certified, thus eliminating harmful substances.
TINTEX’ Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 collection includes vibrant tones, refreshing turquoise and electric green, light and warm copper with chocolate browns that connect the natural and spiritual in an extra-sensorial universe. Infused with a stunning palette of nostalgic and multicultural colors - warm yellow with darkened reds, dynamic purple with urban greys - that express globalization and human connection.
Key smart ingredients of the season are:

• A New Generation of Cotton: GOTS certified organic cotton, Supima® cotton, and ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi the smart cotton that saves up to 77.9% water consumption and introduces the concept of a circular economy.
• SeaCell™ and Smartcel™: produced using the Lyocell process in a closed loop with no chemicals released as waste. The patented process of SeaCell™ allows that the positive properties of the seaweed are permanently preserved within the fiber, even after multiple washing cycles. Smartcel™ includes the essential trace element zinc providing anti-inflammatory capabilities.
• REFIBRA™ by Lenzing technology involves upcycling a substantial proportion of cotton scraps e.g. from garment production, in addition to wood pulp, where the raw material is transformed to produce new TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber to make fabrics and garments.
• Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei: A new generation GRS Certified material, made from cotton linters, with a biodegradability certification by Innovhub. A matchless, high tech natural material, with a special handfeel and aesthetics.
• ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei
  - ROICA™ EF has a percentage of pre-consumer recycled content that is more than 50%, and thanks to this it has been GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.
  - ROICA™ V550 a premium stretch innovative yarn boasting the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Level for Material Health product and ingredients as it was evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health. Striving toward eliminating all toxic and unidentified chemicals for a safe continuous cycle. Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

Of special interest this season, the two TINTEX’s fabrics that made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category for their contribution to this season Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”.

A smart rib developed to reduce the water usage as most as possible, from cultivation of raw materials until fabric finishing. A blend of TENCEL™ Modal, cellulosic & biodegradable material treated with no hazardous chemicals, pesticides nor fertilizers, and European hemp, a fast-growing plant that requires very little water and no herbicides, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds. Both fibres are biodegradable.

The second selected article is a 100% Merino Wool jersey made unique thanks to Colorau® by TINTEX, a patented natural dyeing process technique that uses vegetable herbs and extracts. A great amount of water was saved by avoiding subsequent washing steps. Also, lower water pollution is achieved by avoiding synthetic dyestuffs.

New products for photopolymer and laser sinter printing methods from BASF 3D Printing Solutions GmbH (B3DPS) are on show from November 13 to 16 at Stand F20 in Hall 3.1 at this year’s formnext fair in Frankfurt. The BASF subsidiary is also announcing several new partnerships for the development and distribution of groundbreaking 3D printing solutions and products.

B3DPS has entered into a strategic partnership with the US company Origin, San Francisco, California for the further development of photopolymer printing processes. “Within the framework of an open business model, we are combining BASF’s material know-how with Origin’s expertise in printer software programming and the manufacture of the corresponding hardware,” explained Volker Hammes, Managing Director BASF 3D Printing Solutions GmbH. The collaboration has already shown the first signs of success. Origin has developed a new printing method where BASF’s new Ultracur3D photopolymers can be processed particularly well. The technology offers an optimal combination of a good surface finish and high mechanical stability, while also allowing for high material throughput.

B3DPS is working together with Photocentric, a manufacturer of 3D printers and their corresponding software and materials, on the development of new photopolymers and large-format photopolymer printers for mass production of functional components. Based in Peterborough, UK and Phoenix, USA, Photocentric has developed and optimized the use of LCD screens as image generators for its own printing systems. The two partners plan to offer the industry 3D printing solutions that replace parts of traditional manufacturing processes such as injection molding for small series, as well as enabling the production of large components.

The objective of the cooperation with Xunshi Technology, a Chinese printer manufacturer headquartered in Shaoxing, and operates in USA under the name Sprintray, will be opening new fields of application in 3D printing for the Ultracur3D product range of B3DPS.

Ultracur3D specialties for photopolymer printing processes
B3DPS has grouped well-established and new photopolymers designed for the respective 3D printing processes under the brand name Ultracur3D. BASF has developed unique raw materials for its new products that enable special part properties.
“Our Ultracur3D portfolio enables us to offer customers various UV-curable materials for 3D printing that provide far better mechanical properties and higher long-term stability than most available materials,” explained András Marton, Senior Business Development Manager at B3DPS. He added: “These materials have been developed for functional components that are subject to high stress.”

Expansion of distribution network for filaments
Innofil3D, a subsidiary of B3DPS, is entering into a partnership with Jet-Mate Technology, based in Tjanjin, China, for the distribution of plastic filaments in China. In parallel, a distribution agreement has been concluded with M. Holland in Northbrook, USA for the distribution of filaments in USA. “Since the USA is the largest market for filaments, we intend to strengthen our activities there,” said Jeroen Wiggers, Business Director 3DP Solutions for Additive Extrusion at B3DPS, adding: “Asia is another important market for us. We will be developing further distribution channels there and putting our Ultrafuse filaments on the Asian market in 2019.”

BASF’s portfolio of filaments for 3D printing are comprised of two categories; the well-established Innofil3D filaments based on generic polymers for conventional applications and polymer-based Ultrafuse filaments for advanced formulations used in demanding technical applications. One of the broadest filament selections on the market, this portfolio covers customer requirements ranging from prototype to industrial-scale production.

SLS: new 3D printing material with fire protection classification
New flame-resistant Ultrasint Polyamide PA6 Black FR meets UL94 V2 fire protection standards and is a new material class for use in selective laser sintering (SLS) processes, distinguished by high stiffness and thermal stability. In cooperation with one of the global leaders of public transportation vehicles, B3DPS has developed new components that meet vehicle fire protection requirements. “Together with our partner, we are currently producing prototypes, spare parts, and small series components, and are working to further improve flame resistance to meet additional certification specifications,” explained Hammes.
BASF introduced Ultrasint Grey PA6 LM X085 at AMUG this spring and now is followed by another product on show at formnext. Ultrasint PA6 Black LM X085 is based on polyamide 6, and can be processed at 175-185 degrees Celsius therefore making it suitable for most current SLS machines.

B3DPS adds polypropylene to its 3D printing portfolio
Through the acquisition of Advanc3D Materials GmbH in July 2018, B3DPS has expanded its range with numerous materials for use on laser sinter machines, including polyamide Adsint PA12, Adsint PA11, Adsint PA11CF and Adsint TPU flex 90.
Ultrasint PP is a special highlight. This polypropylene-based product exhibits outstanding mechanical properties and is frequently used in standard industrial production as it offers a good balance between price and performance. Ultrasint PP is distinguished by excellent plasticity, low moisture uptake, and resistance to liquids and gases. Prototypes and small batches can now be produced from the same material as used for traditional serial production. Post treatments such as thermoforming, sealing, and dyeing can be performed after printing.

Candiani launches at Kingpins its new eco-smart denim range in partnership with ROICA™ from Asahi Kasei.

Both companies can claim their separate leading roles in textile innovation. Candiani, ‘the Greenest Mill in The Blue World’, is always at the cutting edge of new developments, and ROICA™ with its various premium stretch functions. Now they join forces through a unique synergy and an exclusive, custom made premium stretch sustainable ROICA™ yarn developed by Asahi Kasei especially for Candiani.

ReLAST is a range of market fresh responsible denim products, designed by Candiani that tick every smart box: from new ways in colouration, to better, more sustainable raw materials, new finishing and fade-tech that minimises water waste, and now with a key responsible stretch ingredient in a specially produced GRS certified ROICA™ yarn that perfectly completes this range making better, more sustainable, sharp fashions for customers looking to live and wear better with better values.

New Colouration values in the K-Seal range come from indigo applied with a water saving Indigo Juice® system. Or in the KN-Cotton range from cotton scraps recycled and dyed with Archroma earth colours. Both are sized with the Kitotex® Vegetal size derived from plants and natural renewables.
KN-Blue and Regen ranges use Sulfur dye and conventional Indigo dye using N-Denim tech and water saving Indigo Juice® respectively. The Regen range also uses Tencel and Refbra materials from Lenzing to add softness and a luxe touch to denims of the future.

All ranges in the ReLAST collection deploy the customized ROICA™ advanced sustainable stretch yarns.

With the ReLAST collection from Candiani and ROICA™ from Asahi Kasei rewrite the rules for responsible denim stretch manufacture, designing fashion forward denims that are now guaranteed completely 100% sustainable.

The evidence for excellence is underpinned by a qualified list of certifications that include GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) and GRS(Global Recycled Standard), Recycled Cotton Certification as well as registered affiliated processing methods for saving water (Kitotex® and Indigo Juice®). Branded raw materials with confirmed responsible status include Tencel and Refibra from Lenzing, Q-Nova recycled polyamide and of course the newly developed ROICA™ advanced fit, premium stretch yarn with full GRS certification.

Dedication to reaching the same goal pays off with the ReLast collection, a collaborative partnership with Candiani and ROICA™.

Universal Linen Service of Louisville, KY, has earned the Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification, reflecting their commitment to best management practices (BMPs) in laundering as verified by on-site inspection and their capability to produce hygienically clean textiles as quantified by ongoing microbial testing. Universal Linen Service is an independently-owned and operated linen service provider that serves all markets.

The Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification confirms the organization’s continuing dedication to infection prevention, compliance with recognized industry standards and processing healthcare textiles using BMPs as described in its quality assurance documentation, a focal point for Hygienically Clean inspectors’ evaluation. The independent, third-party inspection must also confirm essential evidence that:

• Employees are properly trained and protected
• Managers understand regulatory requirements
• OSHA-compliant
• Physical plant operates effectively

To achieve certification initially, laundries pass three rounds of outcome-based microbial testing, indicating that their processes are producing Hygienically Clean Healthcare textiles and diminished presence of yeast, mold and harmful bacteria. They also must pass a facility inspection. To maintain their certification, they must pass quarterly testing to ensure that as laundry conditions change, such as water quality, textile fabric composition and wash chemistry, laundered product quality is consistently maintained. Re-inspection occurs every two to three years.

This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify textiles cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and BMPs for hospitals, surgery centers, medical offices, nursing homes and other medical facilities.

Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification acknowledges laundries’ effectiveness in protecting healthcare operations by verifying quality control procedures in linen, uniform and facility services operations related to the handling of textiles containing blood and other potentially infectious materials.

Certified laundries use processes, chemicals and BMPs acknowledged by the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services, Association for the Advancement of Medical Instrumentation, American National Standards Institute and others. Introduced in 2012, Hygienically Clean Healthcare brought to North America the international cleanliness standards for healthcare linens and garments used worldwide by the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services and the European Committee for Standardization.

Objective experts in epidemiology, infection control, nursing and other healthcare professions work with Hygienically Clean launderers to ensure the certification continues to enforce the highest standards for producing clean healthcare textiles.

“Congratulations to Universal Linen Service on their certification,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “This achievement proves their commitment to infection prevention and that their laundry takes every step possible to prevent human illness.”

• HUB 1922, the fashion division of the RUDOLF GROUP, takes the stage at the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam and presents new technologies that make it possible to move away from environmentally questionable industrial practices.
• HUB 1922 also announces the opening of the new company building in an ancient textile factory near Milan.

Amsterdam/Geretsried/Milan. It was only six months ago that the RUDOLF GROUP, with its fashion Division named HUB 1922, began its journey through the fascinating world of garment finishing. Since then, the team has made significant progress and has moved from being a newcomer to the business to a solid and reliable reality. “HUB 1922 introduces the Rudolf Group to design thinking,” says Alberto De Conti, Head of Fashion Division at Rudolf Group. “And when you break perceived restrictions and paradigms within a strongly science-driven organization, only sky is the limit.”

For an entire semester, the organisation remained focused on one, single goal without getting distracted from it: to become the partner of choice for environmentally conscious advancements in garment processing that are rooted in real experience and science.

Emphasis was put on listening attentively to the market and on engineering solutions proactively, without being prompted.
When it comes to Denim, two separate yet correlated calls for action were heard:
1. the need for a serious departure from established industrial practices that are environmentally questionable
2. the opportunity to change the current rules and stir toward enhanced product quality.

Departure from the environmentally questionable

• HypNO: The next generation of bleach

Many attempts to technical alternatives to local and total denim bleaching have been launched in the market, over the past five years, by a number of competing players. Originality and innovation are at the base of HypNO technical uniqueness that can be injected into traditional denim processing, but that can also be used to create whole new processes and aesthetics.
Birth child of relentless dedication to science, HypNO is the latest alternative to the traditional denim bleaching agents currently under the spotlight because of their alleged safety issues. HypNO is the next generation of bleach.

- HypNO is based on the application of a whole new family of RUCORIT compounds, which are halogene-free and heavy metal-free
- HypNO can replace both potassium permanganate and sodium hypochlorite with one more eco-friendly solution
- HypNO is free from unpleasant smells; it is production friendly and suitable for both spray and bath applications
- HypNO does not require neutralisation with agents such as sodium metabisulphite or peroxides, hence reducing the need for chemicals significantly
- HypNO is GOTS approved. Bluesign and ZDHC Chemical Gateway certifications are intended
- HypNO further helps in the elimination of pumice stones
- HypNO is highly efficient and has been engineered to be cost competitive compared to other existing bleaching solutions

Toward enhanced product quality

• SoSoft, RawLong, DuraBlue

Durability over time still builds a brands’ reputation for quality. The notion of “durability” has changed over the years and has moved from sturdy workwear to the product's ability to retain its characteristics and structural properties.

“It goes against the whole denim philosophy, but, jeans are increasingly bought for what they look like at the time of purchase and are expected to evolve as little as possible. It is what it is; you can’t argue with consumers” says De Conti.

SoSoft, RawLong, DuraBlue, the three new technical concepts launched at Kingpins Amsterdam by the RUDOLF GROUP all sit under the umbrella wings of enhanced quality and specifically address long-lasting softness, preservation of original look and depth of blue.

• SoSoft

All appreciate the softness and suppleness of used/worn denim and the comfort benefit it delivers. It is a generic denim truth, and it is even stronger when it can extend over time. SoSsoft is about softeners carefully engineered for an enduring emotion, one that lives along favourite clothes.

Tried and tested to over 15 home washes, these marvels of chemical engineering allow consumers to toss domestic fabric softeners to the benefit of environmental sustainability.

• RawLong

Denim lovers want raw jeans to fade with time, soften and transform into what feels like an extension of their body. More often, people just want to prolong the look they chose. In both cases, home washing is a headache.

Years of testing have identified RawLong innovative, highly durable and natural solution that keep wearers fresh and at ease in their jeans allowing for long-wearing without washing. Moreover, less home washing means much less impact on the environment.

• DuraBlue

The role of designers is to come up with the bluest of blue jeans in a spectrum of fantastic new blue finishes and supporting textures. The role of DuraBlue is to ensure a continuously updated collection of technical solutions that keep that rich, deep, dark blueness of jeans for much longer while limiting the quality issues that come with denim rubbing. In other words, light underwear, snowy shoes, and white sofas no longer live in fear.

The launch of HUB 1922

• Busto Arsizio, Italy.

On a discreet street of Busto Arsizio, a village at the North of Milan is a red-brick building which in the 1800’s was the house of a textile mill. This 150-year-old structure is where the RUDOLF GROUP, the 100-year-old leader of textile, functional, responsible chemistry, is about to open its Fashion Division. Or, better, it’s HUB 1922.

HUB 1922 is committed to research and develop innovation within garment processing for the privately held mother company. HUB 1922, whose doors are expected to open during fourth quarter of 2018, will foster collaborative efforts with international fashion brands and retailers, will provide product innovation ideas at the crossroad of fashion and utilitarian functionality and will introduce elements of unorthodox diversity rooted in deep scientific knowledge, true environmental responsibility, technical innovation and creativity. “At a time when science plays such a powerful role in the life of society, it is incumbent on fashion to be dealing with scientific research. HUB 1922 facilitates that reunion” concludes De Conti.

• For the first time @Interfilière New York edition, the award winning Interfeel’Award Sustainability ILUNA Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei
• Interfilière New York, 17th–18th October 2018, booth 113

In line with the powerful global trend towards smarter fashion solutions, Iluna Group launches its Embroidery Division. Specialists in lace since 1985, the new Embroidery Division offers a complete and innovative product match in line with the modern expectations of brands and retailers. Staying true to Iluna’s DNA, the introduction of emb roidery and guipure are all produced with only recycled materials.

In addition to the launch of the Embroidery Division, this season novelties include:

1. Since  September  2018,  Iluna  Group’s  products with the right percentage of transformed content are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.

2. Of  major  interest  today,  the  launch  of eco - velvet lace  entirely made  of  sustainable  materials  including ROICA Eco - Smart™  Family, Tencel™ Lyocell and  Q - Nova® .

3. Within  the Black  Label  collection,  the  Ultralight series  is  enriched  with  new  multicolor geometric  and floral galloons and allovers: here Iluna changes the color of  the  thread  not  only  in  the background,  but  also  in  the design,  the  same  article  reinvents  itself  in a  variety  of great visual impact.

4. Green   Label   collection, the   Iluna   dedicated range featuring a new responsible approach in respect of the  planet  and  people, able  to deliver  innovation,  beauty and quality, at 360°. In addition to the all over, jacquard, double jacquard and mesh offer, the line is also featuring new stretch Galloon laces fully made with GRS certified recycled materials,  including  the  stretch  thanks  to the introduction of the  unique ROICA™ sustainable yarn part of the ROICA Eco - Smart™ Family.

5. ILUNA has  strategically  included  in  all  their  stretch  laces  only ROICA Eco- Smart™  Family of sustainable yarns since some time.

6. ILUNA can also boast its new STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification by Oeko-Tex, a certification  that  clarifies  and  communicates  the  company’s  sustainable  production  commitment. In
addition to this, all products are Oeko - Tex 100 certified.

7. ILUNA has  created  the  new e- shop offering  its  exclusive  materials  to  smaller companies   looking   for   added   values   as: creativity,   innovation,   made   in   Italy   and responsibility.

8. The  whole  collection  is  also  visible online at  its  web  site,  previous  registration, and   orders   can   be   done   directly   online always aiming to customers care.

Nevertheless, for ILUNA smart innovation is not   just   a   project even,   its   space at Interfilière will  be  the stage  where visitors will have  the  opportunity  to  discover the new  collection and to also  to experience and  touch latest boundaries  of  lace smart innovations.

Today ILUNA represents the largest European lace producer, and thanks to its journey toward the most contemporary  way  to  innovate  that  includes  responsibility,  has  also  become  a  reference  point  in  the
international market for a lace offer that is beautiful, innovative and responsible at the same time.  An  alchemy  of  design  and  sustainable  innovation, the  only  eco-fashion  line  that  includes  lace  and stockings,  capable  of  combining  ethics  and  high  quality  standards  with  a  fashion  image  of  bright  and deep colors.

• @ Premiere Vision, Paris, 19-21st September, Booth 6G62 - 6H63

The story of a Bemberg™ heritage that has shaped a new future for smart innovation through research, knowledge and expertise to deliver the new face of Bemberg™, the one true original material for modern living. The presentation of the Bemberg™ new campaign represents a high benchmark in value for smart textile fiber innovations, and one that is built on a long heritage of innovations since 1931. Bemberg™ is the ONE new material definition for responsible luxury. The ONE for cool exquisite comfort, and the ONE whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.

Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel. The new campaign will amplify this uniqueness and innate smartness, redefining the brand voice as Bemberg™ at an international level with an openness and positive approach that facilitates a stronger, more focused role in the market while supporting our partner’s strengths too.

It is not just another brand name, but about enhancing core values through a now even better, more refined product and process that supports our partner’s mission to materially benefit the whole supply chain with beautiful products and open, honest communication. This is the key reason to launch the Bemberg™ global brand, taking the next steps on a journey that redefines a new future of contemporary luxury this unique fiber represents.

And for this, European manufacture is playing its key role in the global role out of the latest Bemberg™ innovations. Pioneering partner mills featured at the booth include: Euromaglia, Fiveol Textil, Infinity, Ipeker, Jackytex, Lanificio Europa, O’Jersey, SMI Tessuti, Tessitura Uboldi Luigi, TINTEX Textiles, Brunello, G.I. Tessil Foderami, Gianni Crespi Foderami, Manifattura Pezzetti, Marco Pastorelli and more. The new Bemberg™ booth at Premiere Vision is a contemporary and clean vision of the brand with a glowing, whitened atmosphere of modern architecture and luminous lighting that perfectly frames the new and dynamic identity image to reveal the ‘preciousness’ essence of the brand, its amazing textiles and leading fashion innovations.

Come and review the 3 fabric galleries, each showing the latest and unique fabric designs for Fashion Forward looks, refined Jersey Dressing and Luxury Athleisure Loungewear. Fashions by Maison Margiela confirm the new status of Bemberg™ as the ONE fiber that moves the luxury of Touch to a new contemporary fashion Feel: the ONE for a cool, liquid drape and movement: the ONE for fresh, exquisite comfort, and the ONE smart material born in the circular economy.

The Bemberg™ new campaign

We show a vision from the past in a true classic vintage sheath dress from the 1991 Martin Margiela winter collection using a peach skin finish on a refined, parachute-light fabric in a signature gunmetal grey colour courtesy of Zohra Alami. And also a contemporary representation of fashion from the MM6 MAISON MARGIELA SS2018 collection with a lingerie inspired dressy style in Bemberg™ popeline. This is a multifunctional style to be used as a top or as a dress

A new technical advance in finishing from Asahi Kasei is presented at the booth. Called Velutine Evo, the finish is comparable to premium peach skin finishes today, but now with a better environmental profile by using less water and energy to produce a durable and refined finish that sets a new benchmark for everyday luxury, demonstrating the company’s ongoing commitment to R&D in smarter, market relevant innovations. The results are supported by a preliminary study carried out by ICEA according to the methodology of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) 3rd party testing from ICEA, on datas provided by TIFAS and focusing on environmental benefits that will accrue to partners efforts to offer value with values.

Moreover, you will be able to enjoy the circularity of the Bemberg™ story: its source, manufacture and end-of-life credentials, as well as checking the LCA study, also signed by ICEA and validated by Paolo Masoni, a step that confirms a new quality profile and standard for Bemberg™ with a more responsible and unique position today. Full GRS certification, Oeko-Tex 100, ISO 14001, & Eco-Mark.
Also Bemberg™ can add to its premium position on responsible issues, starting from its raw material choice that clearly demonstrates its circular economy approach. Bemberg™ is made from a cotton linter bio-utility waste, a natural derived and abundant source, and a truly unique one in the smart fiber arena that doesn’t deplete food or forestry resources.

Bemberg™ has new Compostability Certification. Innovhub-SSI report confirms Bemberg™ filaments disintegrate at 100% value within the limits specified by the UNI EN 13432, point A.3.1 for disintegration in the composting process. Also related is a new Ecotoxicity metric to EN 13432:2000 Annex E, the compost obtained from the Bemberg™ filaments according to ISO 16929:2013 revealed the absence of any ecotoxicity effect respect higher plants. The Bemberg™ filaments tested for the presence of heavy metals and other toxic hazardous substances comply with the requirements specified by the UNI EN 13432, for the substances listed in table A.1.

Asahi Kasei is proud to present the Bemberg™ heritage that delivers a true precious uniqueness through responsible smart innovation and transparency. To make contemporary luxury materials that provoke emotive responses through its rarity, sensuality, research and creativity. The ingrained knowledge and know-how behind the brand adds value to the supply chain, working only with the best, amplifying our partner’s knowledge and dynamic commitment too.

• Product innovations, thought-leadership and the new certifications.
• A set of strategic green actions, aimed at increasing transparency and traceability in the company and throughout the industry.

Garmon Chemicals relaunches its commitment to an increasingly green and transparent use of chemicals. The new goal for the company, which in January 2018 has become part of the US Kemin Industries group, is to embark on an actual journey towards sustainability, integrating product innovation with increasingly distinctive strategic actions.

There are three main innovations spearheading Garmon’s commitment. The partnership with the ground-breaking project Alliance for Responsible Denim in the exclusive workshop “Doctor Visits”, held in London June 12. The new ISO 14001:2015 and ISO 9001:2015 process certifications.  The innovative “Stretch Care” collection which features a whole package of eco-compatible solutions, specific for finishing in the world of stretch fabrics.

In partnership with Alliance for Responsible Denim for the “Doctor Visits” workshop
On June 12, in London, the stage was set for “Doctor Visits” an event-workshop organized by Alliance for Responsible Denim focusing on the dissemination and promotion of best practices for sustainable manufacturing. The meeting was dedicated to six selected denim brands, which had a chance to meet the greatest experts in the finishing of indigo fabric.

Garmon Chemicals made available its inimitable experience as technical partner for finishing, as well as conducting team sessions with the Jeanologia staff, a leading company for eco-sustainable technological solutions. The six brands brought the finishing recipes of their Never out of Stock styles, to receive support and recommendations from the experts about the most innovative alternatives in terms of sustainability. The goal was to show the brands new possibilities to migrate towards more responsible finishing, improving their recipes as well. This was a way to reaffirm how ecodriven innovations can also increase finished product quality.
 
The new ISO certifications: increasingly high standards
Garmon Chemicals is also pleased to announce that it has been awarded two important certifications for compliance with ISO international standards as regards safety, reliability and quality. Reference is made here to ISO 9001:2015, a certification which sets international criteria for quality management systems, and most notably, to ISO 14001:2015, a standard acknowledged worldwide stipulating all requirements for an environmental management system. This certification, in particular, helps organizations improve their environmental management performance levels through a more efficient use of resources as well as by reducing production waste. Indeed ISO 14001:2015 mandates that an organization should take into account all aspects relevant to its core business. Amongst assessed parameters there are: air pollution, managing water resources and discharge, waste management, soil contamination, mitigation and adjustment to climate change, as well as an efficient use of resources.

These certifications, once again, provide evidence of the constant commitment on the part of Garmon for an increasingly sustainable use of chemicals, aimed at truly reducing its impact on humans and the environment.
    
A commitment which comes to life in the new “Stretch Care” collection
Introduced on the occasion of the Kingpins exhibition in April 2018, the new “Stretch Care” collection is a line of products completely dedicated to enhancing the qualities and performance of stretch fabrics. The special formulations developed for this line, with their cutting-edge raw materials, are especially suited for treatments with a high eco-compatibility rate; at the same time they optimize the production process. It is worth mentioning in particular the innovative Geopower NPS (= no pumice stone), a compound which helps eliminate pumice stone from denim washings, thus reducing environmental costs and impacts. Another ground-breaking product is Avol Oxy White, the innovative bleaching agent designed to achieve localized effects on denim. Thanks to its composition it is an ecologically advanced product whose environmental impact has been reduced to a minimum, a real challenge to the use of potassium permanganate which tends to be pervasively used as part of industrial processes.

“We firmly believe in developing sustainable chemistry” – concludes Donald Mulazzani, Marketing and Business Development Director at Garmon Chemicals – “not only in terms of product, but also as evidence of our responsible approach on several levels. In this way, we want to contribute to disseminating what will need to be the best practices in the future, for the whole industry”.