From the Sector

In occasion of the next edition of Pitti Uomo, Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei – the unique fiber with a circular economy footprint obtained from cotton linters through a closed-loop process ensuring certified sustainability credentials through its transparent and traceable approach- reveals a very special Bemberg™ fabrics smart range dedicated to premium denimwear.

This has been made possible thanks to the partnership with PureDenim, a leading Italian company whose strategy since 10 years is based on an entire re-design of the production system, inspired by circular economy principles that combines technology and innovative materials in order to offer the highest levels of design, innovation and real responsible values derived from an holistic approach to sustainability.
The “Blue di Cupro” collection is made with seven fabrics made with Bemberg™, either 100% Bemberg™ or in blend with cotton, wool, and it applies the most advanced Pure Denim Technologies. The Blue di cupro fabrics made with Bemberg™ will also be dyed with “Smart Indigo” an indigo dye technology internally produced by PureDenim, through a chemical-free production. The only elements involved are: water, indigo pigments, and electricity. In terms of finishing, fabrics’ looks and performances are enhanced by the “Eco Sonic” ultrasounds finishing technology which brings significant reduction of water used, increased aesthetic features and controlled discoloration. And last but not least every yarn used at PureDenim is protected by NaturalReco® a 100% natural product that completely SUBSTITUTE the use of plastic films that are one of the key causes of microplastic emission for denim application.

“Blue” seems to be the new colour of Bemberg™, in fact, the company in early November 2022 announced, at the Blue Friday initiative by UNESCO's Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission (IOC), the achievement of the OK biodegradable MARINE certification, which guarantees the biodegradability of its products even in the marine environment, as certified by TÜV AUSTRIA, meaning a lot in the context of microplastics in water issue solutions. This Bemberg™ certification’s achievement comes on top of other key ones such as the INNOVHUB report that confirms Bemberg™ biodegradability in soil without releasing hazardous substances, the RCS by Textile Exchange, and the Oeko-Tex Standard 100 and ISO 14001 corporate certifications.

• Scientific researchers from 10 countries, including North America, UK, Japan and Germany
• Bertrand Piccard, Solar Impulse Foundation, as Keynote Speaker
• Speakers from strategic partnerships: L’Oréal, Salomon, and McKinsey

Carbios hosted the first PET Biorecycling Summit from 7 to 8 December 2022 in Paris. The event attracted over 100 international participants from the scientific, academic, and industrial worlds to exchange on the advances in the field of biological recycling, and how to bring these innovations for a circular economy to market.

The two-day conference gathered scientists from various academic institutions to share their latest research on PET enzymatic depolymerization.  Bertrand Piccard, Initiator and Chairman of the Solar Impulse Foundation^[1], joined as the Keynote Speaker for the last session focused on PET circularity, and praised Carbios’ contribution to reducing plastic pollution. The Summit concluded with a visit of Carbios’ demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand. The demonstration plant was inaugurated in September 2021 and brings Carbios’ technology one step closer to industrialization. Following the demonstration plant’s success, Carbios is on track to build and operate the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant (with a processing capacity of 50.000 tons of PET waste per year) in France (Longlaville) by 2025^[2], and to start licensing its technology throughout the world.

^[1] To address sustainability challenges while enabling economic growth, Bertrand Piccard and the Solar Impulse Foundation have identified 1000+ clean and profitable solutions. More details available on the official website.

^[2] Cf. Press release dated 23 February 2022.

Carbios published its first Sustainability Report using 2021 as the baseline year. The report outlines Carbios’ commitment to developing environmental, social and governance (ESG) initiatives that go beyond the industrial development of its innovative plastics biorecycling technologies. Although not subject to the regulatory requirement of the Non-Financial Reporting Directive (NFRD), Carbios has nonetheless structured its report in accordance with the requirements of the European directive on Extra-Financial Performance Statements.

Carbios’ sustainability strategy is based on three pillars (governance and ethics, the environment, social and societal issues) divided into 22 priority material challenges. Carbios’ Sustainability Report reflects the company’s dedication to transparency in action and highlights its efforts in areas such as environmental sustainability; employee relations, diversity and inclusion; and corporate governance.

Within its 2021 Sustainability Report, Carbios has formalized several targets including:

ENVIRONMENTAL OBJECTIVES

• Use the Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) method to maximize circularity and aim for the lowest carbon impact
• Commit to depolymerizing 60 tons of PET in 2023 at the Demonstration Plant in Clermont-Ferrand: the equivalent of about 3.2 million plastic bottles or 4 million food trays

SOCIAL OBJECTIVES

• Contribute to local economic development in France: the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant in Longlaville will create 150 direct and indirect jobs
• In a context of strong growth, promote employee well-being and safety by developing training, and ensuring the management and prevention of psycho-social risks
• Strengthen commitment to supporting international research through academic partnerships and scientific publications

GOVERNANCE OBJECTIVES

• Achieve 40% female members of the Board of Directors by end 2023, and 40% on Executive Committee by end 2024
• Achieve 60% independent members of the Board of Directors by end 2024
• Structure CSR governance with the creation of a CSR committee and integrate sustainability objectives into Executive’s compensation starting fiscal year 2023

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) has been included as a member of the Dow Jones Sustainability World Index (DJSI World) for the fourth consecutive year, with a 96 percentile, and the Dow Jones Sustainability Emerging Markets Index (DJSI Emerging Markets) for the sixth successive year, with a 99 percentile. The achievement aligns with IVL's purpose of “reimagining chemistry together to create a better world.”

In 2022, S&P Global invited over 11,000 companies to participate in the Corporate Sustainability Assessment (CSA). Companies with outstanding results were then considered eligible for any DJSI. This year, there were 86 chemical companies that led the field in terms of sustainability and were eligible for the DJSI World, which tracks the performance of the top 10% of the 2,500 largest companies, and 34 chemical companies eligible for the DJSI Emerging Markets, which tracks the performance of the top 10% of the 800 largest Emerging Markets companies. Out of which, IVL is among only 10 chemical companies in the DJSI World and only 3 chemical companies in the DJSI Emerging Markets.

IVL's consistently high ranking in DJSI is driven by the company's ambition to build its industry leadership in sustainability. Under Vision 2030, IVL is committed to reducing GHG intensity by 30% and increasing renewable electricity consumption to 25%. This year, IVL also committed to setting science-based targets through the Science Based Targets Initiative (SBTi). The company also participates in the SBTi Expert Advisory Group for the chemicals industry and provides funding for developing chemical sector decarbonization solutions.

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of sustainably produced specialty fibers, and Renewcell, the Swedish textile-to-textile recycling pioneer, have signed a multi-year supply agreement to accelerate the transition of the textile industry from a linear to a circular business model. The agreement contains the sale of 80,000 to 100,000 tonnes of Renewcell’s 100 per cent recycled textile Circulose® dissolving pulp to Lenzing over a five-year period, for use in the production of cellulosic fibers for fashion and other textile applications.

“The textile industry must change. By signing the agreement with Swedish textile-to-textile recycling company Renewcell, Lenzing is able to further integrate recycling and accelerate the transition of the textile industry from linear to circular. As champions of sustainability, we know that moving towards a circular economy is vital to address the enormous textile waste challenges of the industry”, says Christian Skilich, Chief Pulp Officer of the Lenzing Group.

“Lenzing is a major player in our industry, with an inspiring track record of path-breaking technical excellence and sustainability leadership. Our new partnership fits perfectly into Renewcell’s strategy to accelerate the scale-up of circular materials by collaborating with fashion’s most important players. We are more than pleased to join forces with Lenzing with the shared goal of making fashion circular.” said Patrik Lundström, CEO of Renewcell, in a comment on the agreement.

Canopy, a not-for-profit environmental organization dedicated to protecting forests, species, and climate, welcomes the agreement between Lenzing and Renewcell.
“Accelerating the transition to low-impact, circular production is the challenge of the decade for the fashion industry. That is why this partnership between Renewcell and Lenzing is so refreshing – it will bring low-carbon Next Gen solutions to market at scale,” exclaimed Nicole Rycroft, Executive Director of Canopy. “With the climate and biodiversity clocks ticking, the race to circularity is one we need all companies to win.”
 
It is an essential part of Lenzing’s corporate strategy and ambitious sustainability targets to become a true champion of circularity and to offer TENCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™ branded specialty textile fibers with up to 50 percent post-consumer recycled content on a commercial scale by 2025. To reach this goal Lenzing partners with recycling pioneers like Renewcell.
Circulose® originates 100 per cent from textile waste, like old jeans and production scraps, and turns into dissolving pulp. It transforms textile waste and production scrap into new high-quality textile products.

• Lenzing again recognized for sustainable sourcing, innovation and transparency
• Lenzing achieves the highest category for the third time already

The Lenzing Group achieved first place in the “Hot Button Ranking” of the Canadian non-profit organization Canopy, thus confirming its leading role in the areas of sustainability and responsible wood and pulp sourcing. Lenzing can also once again celebrate a dark green shirt, synonymous with the highest category.

In this ranking, which receives a lot of attention in the textile and apparel industry, Canopy evaluates the world’s 34 largest producers of cellulosic fibers in terms of their sustainable wood and pulp sourcing, their efforts with regard to the use of alternative raw materials and their achievements in the protection of ancient and endangered forests. Resource preservation is a key element of Lenzing’s corporate strategy and at the core of its innovation agenda. The sustainable production of TENCEL™, VEOCEL™ and LENZING™ ECOVERO™branded specialty fibers is based on these principles.

Promoting the circular economy
With its REFIBRA™ and Eco Cycle technologies, Lenzing offers solutions for transforming the textile and nonwovens industries towards a circular economy. In line with its vision for the circular economy, “We give waste a new life. Every day.” Lenzing is driving the industry toward a full circular economy by striving to give waste a new life in all aspects of its core business and developing circular solutions together with potential partners inside and outside the current value chain. A milestone on this path is the cooperation with the Swedish pulp producer Södra. The two global market leaders, who have been proactively promoting the circular economy in the fashion industry for many years, are joining forces to give the topic a further boost and make a decisive contribution to solving the global textile waste problem by making fibers from post-consumer textiles.

Today, Lenzing offers lyocell fibers made from 30 percent recycled cotton waste. The company aims to launch lyocell, modal and viscose staple fibers with up to 50 percent recycled post-consumer content on a commercial scale by 2025 and to develop a new circular business model by closing the loops for post-consumer waste. By 2025, the company plans to enter into further partnerships with 25 key supply chain companies.

Swiss-based SANITIZED AG is increasing its innovation expertise by appointing a new CTO, Dr. Martin Čadek, who will oversee global technological activities for the specialist antimicrobial hygiene brand. Dr. Čadek will lead the company’s Competence Centre for Technology Innovation and will focus on breaking new ground to develop innovations in sustainability.

Dr. Čadek is a graduate physicist with a master’s degree in polymer science with many years’ experience in the industry working with polymers, fibres, industrial textiles, and extruded polymers. He is joining SANITIZED AG from his most recent role as Managing Director for German subsidiary the Flint Group. His previous roles include the Global Head of Innovation for Energy and Polymer Systems at Evonik/Orion, the Head of Extrusion Technology Business Unit in Europe for Emerell AG, and work with the SGL Group.

The Competence Centre for Technology & Innovation will provide services to all three of SANITIZED’s business units: Textiles, Polymer Additives, and Coatings and Preservation. It will be built on top of SANITIZED’s TecCenter for Analytics, Microbiology and Applications and its regulatory department.

Freudenberg recently completed the installation of 13,000m2 of photovoltaic cells on the roof of its new Nantong factory. With a total capacity of 1.6 MW, the new rooftop installation is projected to produce 1.5 million kWh of green electricity each year. In addition to reduced energy consumption from the grid, this new installation will lower CO2 emissions by approximately 1,200 tons/year.

Beyond the photovoltaic installation, Freudenberg has integrated sustainability into the Nantong factory’s design, with advances in energy conservation and emissions and loss reduction.
The factory uses valley voltage to cool water in its reservoir that is applied to A/C and machine temperature management during working hours. The new waste gas treatment technology enables hot water collected by heat exchangers to be directly reused in production, thereby reducing thermal energy waste. Furthermore, the factory applies a new multi-phase waste gas treatment technology to reduce volatile organic compounds (VOC) emissions. The factory has also incorporated new methods to improve the A-grade rates of bi-elastic interlinings and shirt interlinings, further reducing waste while improving garment quality.

As part of the Group’s sustainable development strategy, Freudenberg Apparel has also launched its House of Sustainability to minimize the impact of production processes on the environment and help customers achieve their sustainability goals, with responsible products across the seasons.

How can economic success be linked with product responsibility and more sustainability? More than 300 players and Hohenstein customers in the Indian textile industry accepted Hohenstein India's invitation to attend the Global Sustainability Conference in Gurugram, India, on November 10, 2022, and to obtain possible solutions to this question. The following day, numerous invited guests gathered at the Hohenstein laboratory site in Gurugram for the ceremonial inauguration of a new leather & footwear laboratory, the first of its kind in the global Hohenstein Competence Network. 

With the ceremonial opening by Prof. Dr. Mecheels, Dr. Christof Madinger, COO Hohenstein HTTI and Dr. Helmut Krause, Hohenstein Technical Director Softlines & Shoes, the starting signal was given for the new leather & footwear laboratory at the laboratory site in Gurugram on November 11, 2022. During tours, visitors were able to get a personal impression of the future focus of work on site: testing for harmful substances in accordance with the LEATHER STANDARD RSL and the subsequent certification of leather and footwear products in accordance with the OEKO-TEX® LEATHER STANDARD will in future ensure a lower market risk for brands, retailers and suppliers and comprehensive and reliable safety for consumers.

Confirming its commitment as a global sustainability player.

The Sharm el-Sheikh Climate Change Conference (COP 27) has turned out to be one of the most closely watched events in recent years, an opportunity to bring together leaders from around the world in the face of a pressing and undeniable need

ISKO had the honor to be the only manufacturer representative of the fashion industry at the United Nations event by taking part on 12 November at the focus talk “Circular Systems for a Net Positive Fashion Industry” organized by the Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) and the UNEP (United Nations Environment Programme).

Elena Faleschini, Senior Manager Brand Partnerships ISKO, and the other speakers (Federica Marchionni, Lily Cole, Miranda Schnitger, Samata Pattinson, Holly Syrett and Tarek Alkhoury) have agreed that:

• Harmonization and transparency in goals are critical.
• Vertical and horizontal partnerships are key.
• Investment in innovation is vital to a circular business model in fashion.
• Fashion must be part of the discussions around climate change and net positive.