From the Sector

• Sustainability at Milano Unica:  Ecodesign for an environmentally friendly fashion industry.

A ski suit made of yarn obtained from recycled materials and fully recyclable at end-of-life, without giving up on style, design and technical performance: this is RadiciGroup’s business card at the 34th Milano Unica, the international high-end textiles trade show taking place at the Milan Rho Fairground on 1-2 February.

In the Innovation Area of TexCubTec, Sistema Moda Italia’s technical and functional textile section, visitors can see and touch the new uniform of the RadiciGroup Ski Club designed by RadiciGroup in collaboration with the DKB sportswear brand.

“The ski suit, consisting of jacket and trousers, is fashioned with fabric made of RENYCLE®, a RadiciGroup yarn obtained from mechanically recycled nylon,” pointed out Marco De Silvestri, sales & marketing manager – Apparel and Technical of RadiciGroup Advanced Textile Solutions business area. “In addition, the suit’s padding and numerous accessories, such as zippers, Velcro, buttons and thread, are also made of polyamide. It was an ambitious project and we reached a definitive goal: circularity in sportswear without compromising on performance. A goal achieved through continuous close collaboration with other companies in the chain to develop chemically compatible materials that guarantee the high technical performance required by this kind of application.”

At Milano Unica, besides RENYCLE®, RadiciGroup is showcasing garments made of   REPETABLE®, a polyester yarn obtained from post-consumer recycled plastic bottles, and articles made of BIOFEEL®, a brand identifying both nylon and polyester yarn made from renewable source materials.

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan announces the opening of its new “SHIMA eStore” online shopping site for purchasing subscriptions to its APEXFiz™ design software. Users can access the SHIMA eStore to purchase and download entry-level APEXFiz™ Design Jr. subscription software, or sign up for a free 30-day trial.

SHIMA SEIKI’s APEXFiz™ subscription-based design software has been on sale since March 2021 as the latest addition to its proven SDS®-ONE APEX series design system lineup. Whereas previous APEX-series design systems were offered as an all-in-one proprietary hardware/software package, APEXFiz™ is available as subscription-based design software that can be installed on customers’ individual computers. Maintaining proven functions that have made the APEX series so popular with fashion designers, with APEXFiz™ those strengths are now enhanced with the added versatility to adapt to different work styles and business environments of the “new normal,” including teleworking and telecommuting.

APEXFiz™ offers the latest fashion tech for supporting the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that allows visual confirmation of garment designs without the need for producing physical prototypes, reducing time, cost and material that are otherwise wasted. APEXFiz™ thereby helps to realize sustainability while digitally transforming the fashion supply chain.

APEXFiz™ is available in 5 different software variations from APEXFiz™ Design Jr. to APEXFiz™ Design Pro that can be selected according to each customer's needs. APEXFiz™ Design Jr., sold at the SHIMA eStore, is entry-level software that specializes in the design and simulation of woven and flat knitted fabrics for supporting virtual sampling. Fabric simulations are available in different formats to be used together with 3D virtual sampling software besides APEXFiz™, allowing continued use of software already used by customers while enhancing the realism of digital prototypes created on them.

• Session "Recycling and Other Alternative Feedstocks"

Cellulose fibres are a true material miracle as they offer a steadily expanding, broad range of applications. Meanwhile markets are driven by technological developments and policy frameworks, especially bans and restrictions on plastics, as well as an increasing number of sustainability requirements. The  presentations will provide valuable information on the various use-opportunities for cellulosic fibres through a policy overview, a special session on sustainability, recycling and alternative feedstocks, as well as the latest developments in pulp, cellulosic fibres and yarns. In addition, examples of non-wovens,  packaging and composites will offer a look beyond the horizon of conventional application fields.

The fourth session, "Recycling and other alternative raw materials", will cover topics ranging from textile recycling - both cotton and regenerated cellulose fibres - to the use of hemp shives as raw material. Self-initiated cooperation and waste management pave the way to a fully closed European material loop where textile waste is collected, recycled and reprocessed into new raw materials.

The speakers will demonstrate the importance of cooperation in recycling fabrics already in circulation, perfectly following the topics and discussions of the previous conference day.

• Heikki Hassi - SciTech-Service (FI):  Textile Recycling and MMCFs; Systemic Challenges, Market Opportunities and Advancing Technologies
• Valerie Langer - Canopy (CA): The Perfect Storm – A Five Year Feedstock Shift Forecast
• Helena Claesson - Södra (SE): Two is better than one – Lenzing and Södra together Face the Challenge of Recycling of Textiles
• Marina Crnoja-Cosic - Kelheim Fibres (DE) and Harald Cavalli-Björkman - re:newcell (SE): Sustainable Cellulosic Fibres from Recycled Raw Materials – A Solution for Europe
• Frank Meister - Thüringisches Institut für Textil- und Kunststoff-Forschung (DE): Lyohemp Fibres Made of Dissolving Pulp Based on Hemp Shives
• Miguel Sanchis-Sebastiá - ShareTex (SE): Expanding Textile Recycling Beyond Cotton: Innovations to Recycle Regenerated Cellulose Fibers

• RadiciGroup and DKB introduce the first “circular” ski suit
• A garment made of yarn obtained from recycled materials and designed with end-of-life recyclability in mind, without compromising style, design and technical performance.
• RadiciGroup Ski Club athletes will be the first ambassadors of this sustainability project

The first truly sustainable ski suit, featuring Italian style and design and a zero-kilometre supply chain, is finally here. Two Bergamo companies of excellence played the leading roles in the conception and realization of this highly innovative fashion-sport garment: RadiciGroup, a world leading producer of chemical intermediates, polyamide polymers, high-performance engineering polymers and advanced textile solutions, and DKB, a company specializing in technical sportswear with the same brand name.

The ski suit, consisting of jacket and trousers, is fashioned with a fabric made of RENYCLE, a RadiciGroup yarn obtained from mechanically recycled polyamide (nylon), which affords notable savings in energy and water consumption, as well as lower CO2 emissions. In addition, the suit’s padding and numerous accessories, such as zippers, Velcro, buttons and thread, are also made of polyamide.

This achievement was made possible by the great teamwork of RadiciGroup and DKB on the research and development of chemically compatible materials that can be used in special applications requiring high technical performance. The end result is an almost mono-material garment that significantly facilitates end-of-life recycling. It can be more easily converted into polymers for use in the manufacture of ski boot components and bindings, in addition to applications in the automotive and furnishing industries, or in any other sector requiring the characteristics of high performance polyamides.

The ski suit by RadiciGroup is thus an all-round application of ecodesign and circular economy principles to fashion and garment making, which justifies the claim “Una sostenibilità all’altezza delle nostre montagne” [Sustainability worthy of our mountains] written in a logo patch on the inside of the jacket.

“I am particularly proud of this achievement, a synthesis of my passion and effort,” said Angelo Radici, president of RadiciGroup. “I’ve always loved mountaineering and skiing, and, together with my collaborators, I work hard at our company day in and day out to find innovative solutions that improve the sustainability of our industry. This ski suit is concrete proof of the fact that textiles and apparel can be made sustainable without compromising on comfort, design, looks or performance. I will never get tired of repeating that collaboration among the firms along the production chain is crucial to manufacturing goods with an ecodesign approach, considering their end-of-life recyclability and, thus, potentially giving them unlimited durability. Upstream producers, like us, gladly share our know-how in materials chemistry and experience in recycling with our downstream partners, so that, together, we can find sustainable and viable solutions in the various sectors where we operate.”

Am 15. November hat das Vereinsregister Köln die Verschmelzung des Bundesverbands des Deutschen Schuheinzelhandels e.V. (BDSE) und des Bundesverbands des Deutschen Lederwaren-Einzelhandels e.V. (BLE) auf den BTE rechtswirksam in das Vereinsregister eingetragen. Neuer Name des fusionierten Verbandes ist „Bundesverband des Deutschen Textil-, Schuh- und Lederwareneinzelhandels e.V. (BTE), die meist verwendete Kurzform lautet „BTE Handelsverband Textil Schuhe Lederwaren“. Die Verschmelzung ist rückwirkend zum 1. Januar 2021 erfolgt.
 
Vorausgegangen waren am 20. August drei außerordentliche digitale Delegiertenversammlungen von BTE, BDSE und BLE, die ohne Gegenstimmen die Verschmelzung auf den BTE beschlossen. Zudem hat die digitale BTE-Delegiertenversammlung eine Satzungsänderung mit der entsprechenden Namensänderung beschlossen.
 
Ziel der Verschmelzung ist es, die bereits seit Jahren enge Zusammenarbeit mit einem gemeinsamen Büro und Geschäftsführungen in Personalunion weiter zu intensivieren, zu vereinfachen und vor allem zum Wohle der Textil-, Schuh- und Lederwarenbranche effizienter zu gestalten. Die zentralen Gründe:
 

• Verbandsstrategisch: Die Landesverbände der Einzelhandelsorganisation, die gleichzeitig auch die Mitgliedsverbände von BTE, BDSE und BLE sowie des Handelsverband Deutschland HDE sind, wünschen zur Optimierung eine Fusion der Bundesfachverbände.
• Sortimentspolitisch: In allem drei Branchen haben sich die Sortimente in den letzten Jahren weiter vermischt. Immer mehr Handelsunternehmen führen mittlerweile Textilien, Schuhe und Lederwaren.
• Kosten: Durch die Zentralisierung interner (Verwaltungs-)Dienste wird der bürokratische Aufwand gesenkt  
• Effizienz: Durch die größere Einheit werden Doppelarbeiten vermieden und die Interessenvertretung des Textil-, Schuh- und Lederwarenhandels vor dem Hintergrund immer größer werdender politischer und wirtschaftlicher Verbundräume gestärkt.

 
Auch nach der Verschmelzung wird es eine eigene Facharbeit für die Sortimentsbereiche Schuhe und Lederwaren geben. Dazu werden eigene Arbeitskreise für Schuhe und für Lederwaren gegründet sowie das BTE-Präsidium um Vertreter aus dem spezialisierten Schuh- und Lederwarenhandel erweitert.

Künstliche Intelligenz (KI) bietet auch kleinen und mittleren Unternehmen große Chancen. Damit das Potenzial von KI spielerisch erlebbar wird, haben die Deutschen Institute für Textil- und Faserforschung Denkendorf (DITF) und die Hahn-Schickard-Gesellschaft für angewandte Forschung e.V. im Sommer letzten Jahres den „KI-EscapeROOM“ eröffnet. Aufgrund der andauernden Einschränkungen durch COVID-19 wurde für Interessenten aus der Industrie eine virtuelle Möglichkeit geschaffen, weiterhin aktiv das Thema KI kennenzulernen. Das neue Online-Angebot des Mittelstand 4.0 Kompetenzzentrums Textil vernetzt kann ab sofort genutzt werden.

Wissenschaftler*innen von DITF und Hahn-Schickard haben im Sommer letzten Jahres gemeinsam ein Konzept erstellt, mit dem KI-Prinzipien spannend und verständlich vermittelt werden: Der KI-EscapeROOM wurde eröffnet. Die Spielenden werden Schritt für Schritt an das Thema KI herangeführt und können am Ende Impulse und Ideen für die eigene Arbeit mitnehmen. Als pandemiebedingt der reale KI-Escape-Room geschlossen werden musste, fehlte ein digitales Angebot. Jetzt wurde die virtuelle Baustelle für den Aufbau des KI-EscapeROOM eingerichtet. Mit Desktop-PC oder Laptop kann man in das 3D-Browser-Spiel eintreten und dabei helfen, den KI-EscapeROOM aufzubauen. In 15-20 Minuten kann die Baustelle weiterentwickelt werden, indem durch das richtige Beantworten von Multiple-Choice-Fragen benötigte Bauteile erspielt werden. Gegenstände müssen angeklickt und gedreht werden – überall können sich Hinweise verbergen.

Am Ende des Spiels steht nicht nur die Steuerzentrale, an die der reale KI-EscapeROOM anknüpft, sondern die Teilnehmer*innen wissen, was Künstliche Intelligenz kann – und was nicht. Die Spielerinnen und Spieler kennen sowohl verschiedene Aufgaben, die KI lösen kann, als auch verschiedene Algorithmen, die KI verwendet.

Der reale KI-EscapeROOM an den DITF kann jetzt wieder besucht werden. Mit Knobeln, Kombinieren und Ausprobieren können weitere spannende Aufgaben rund um Künstliche Intelligenz gelöst werden.

Im KI-EscapeROOM können Mitarbeiter*innen aus allen Branchen Künstliche Intelligenz hautnah erleben und gemeinsam in interdisziplinären Teams unterschiedliche Aufgaben meistern.

Wer sich gerne im KI-EscapeROOM für die Zukunft fit machen möchte, meldet sich zu einem der Termine an oder vereinbart einen individuellen Termin mit einer Gruppe von drei bis sechs Personen. Zur kompletten Terminübersicht aus dem Kompetenzzentrum Textil vernetzt geht es unter www.kompetenzzentrum-textil-vernetzt.digital.

Für die Teilnehmer*innen, die Ideen in ihren Unternehmen umsetzen möchten, stehen zusätzlich die KI-Trainer*innen aus dem Kompetenzzentrum Textil vernetzt mit Rat und Tat zur Seite.

• Neue Technologien von Mimaki für Werbetechnik, 3D- und Textildruck erstmals auf der Messe zu sehen
• Innovation – das zentrale Motto für den Messeauftritt von Mimaki – mit Präsentation von Kunden- und Partneranwendungen

Mimaki Europe wird seine breite Palette an Digitaldrucktechnologien auf der FESPA Global Print Expo 2021, 12.-15. Oktober 2021, RAI Amsterdam, präsentieren. Dazu gehören der brandneue UV-Flachbettdrucker JFX600-2513, die Drucker der UJF-Serie mit hoher Geschwindigkeit und Qualität sowie der 3D-Desktop-Farbdrucker 3DUJ-2207. Im Rahmen einer interaktiven Ausstellung wird Mimaki auch erfolgreiche Anwendungsbeispiele seiner Kunden und Partner präsentieren.

Zu den neuen Lösungen gehört der JFX600-2513, ein LED-UV-Inkjet-Flachbettdrucker für das Großformat, der mit seiner hohen Geschwindigkeit und Produktivität speziell für den Druck großer Auflagen gedacht ist. Dank einer größeren Auswahl an Tintentypen und der höheren Medienflexibilität wartet dieses neue Modell mit einem breiteren Spektrum an Anwendungsmöglichkeiten für Druckdienstleister auf.

Die in diesem Monat auf den Markt gebrachten Drucker UJF-7151 plusII und Modelle der UJF-MkII e-Serie werden auch zu den Hauptattraktionen am Mimaki-Messestand gehören. Der für reibungslosen und zuverlässig hohen Durchsatz konzipierte UJF-7151 plusII ermöglicht eine um bis zu 190% höhere Druckgeschwindigkeit als sein Vorgängermodell UJF-7151 plus. Dieser Drucker unterstützt den Einsatz schwerer Schablonen – ideal zum präzisen Bedrucken schwerer Materialien wie Holz, Metall und Glas.

Als weiteres Beispiel für das Portfolio von Mimaki und ebenfalls brandneues Produkt wird auch der Mimaki 3DUJ-2207 erstmals auf der FESPA präsentiert. Dieser einfach skalierbare 3D-Desktop-Drucker soll Designern und Produktentwicklern eine Welt voller Möglichkeiten eröffnen, die den 3D-Druck mit all seiner Farbenpracht bislang noch nicht nutzen konnten.

Leading Japanese computerized knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., is participating in the “MIT Media Lab Summer Camp in Japan” hosted by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology Media Lab of Cambridge, Massachusetts, U.S.A.

SHIMA SEIKI has been part of the MIT Media Lab as a Consortium Lab Member since 2018, collaborating on research for exploring next-generation technologies that open up new opportunities for the garment sector. The MIT Media Lab is now holding a series of online seminar sessions for middle/junior high school and high school students in Japan and around the world in order to share activities and experiences that address social issues through cross-sector and crossindustry collaboration.

SHIMA SEIKI is holding its own session as part of this series, titled “ZERo-WASTE FASHIon—Protecting the Planet from Fashion Loss.” The session highlights current issues faced by the fashion industry including environmental problems that have recently become the focus of attention, and aims to explain in simple terms, various sustainable solutions made possible by combining seam-free complete garment knitting technology with virtual sampling performed on design systems.

Mimaki held their global event Innovation Days (2-4 June 2021) to great success. The event brought together printers, journalists and experts from Mimaki Japan, USA and Europe, to nurture innovation in the sign graphics, industrial, textile and 3D markets and drive success within the industry. The global event also introduced the market to Mimaki’s recent product releases, the JFX550, JFX600 and SUJV-160.

In a week of webinars, workshops, demonstrations, and networking events, over 1,300 attendees from all across the world logged in to participate, with the demonstration of UJV100 and JV100 printers, 3D printing workshop and car wrap workshop being the most popular events. As a first of its kind for Mimaki, visitors were able to speak with regional Mimaki representatives, gaining greater insight into the global printing industry as it recovers from the COVID-19 pandemic.

A stand-out attraction of the event was the recently released 100 Series, which is priced affordably to allow printers entry into different markets, as many look to expand their portfolio in these uncertain times. The new JFX600-2513 and JFX550-2513, which debuted a few weeks prior at virtual drupa, similarly are higher end but still affordable printers, when compared to other large format UV flatbed machines in its class. 3D full colour print technology also featured heavily in the event, as Mimaki explored the exciting propositions it opens up in different markets and how the brand continues to extend the reach and accessibility of cutting-edge 3D technologies with its upcoming 3DUJ-2207 printer.

Mr. Kazuaki Ikeda, President of Mimaki Engineering commented, “I’d like to extend my thanks to everyone who joined us during this exciting new virtual event. During the pandemic, carrying on innovating has been central to Mimaki’s objectives, with eight new products having been released since October, and even more scheduled to come out over the course of this year. I hope that we can soon all meet at in-person events, once it’s safe to do so, but until then I’m excited to see the results of the continued collaboration and innovation of print industry that we saw in our Innovation Days event.”

Flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Hong Kong subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI (HonG KonG) LTD., will participate in the ITMA Asia + CITME 2020 exhibition to be held at the national Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, China in June.

Through its exhibit theme—Step Beyond—SHIMA SEIKI will present its vision of the future, while addressing a variety of solutions for the new normal, including proposals in Factory Automation, Digital Transformation (DX), and various online solutions.

At ITMA Asia SHIMA SEIKI will be making proposals for factory automation centered around the special manufacturing capabilities of our WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines. WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear can be knit in one entire piece without the need for linking or sewing, and allows for on-demand knitting. SHIMA SEIKI will present its WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology in the form of two of the latest machines. The flagship MACH2XS is the one of most advanced flat knitting machines, featuring proprietary four-needle bed and Slideneedle™ technology combined with spring-type moveable sinkers and i-DSCS+DTC® Digital Stitch Control System with Intelligence and Dynamic Tension Control, and capable of all-needle knitting of WHOLEGARMENT® items. MACH2XS is presented in ultrafine 18L gauge, shown for the first time in China. Also shown for the first time in China, MACH2VS, a flexible V-bed machine capable of knitting WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear using every other needle, or conventional shaped knitting using all needles. It also features spring-type moveable sinkers and i-DSCS+DTC® Digital Stitch Control System with Intelligence and Dynamic Tension Control. MACH2VS is presented in ultrafine 18G with auto yarn carriers as a prototype option.

ITMA Asia will also be the occasion for a sneak preview of next-Generation 4-bed WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology. The new machine is named SWG-XR, adopting the SWG moniker from the first-generation WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine introduced back in 1995. The "X" represents 4 needle beds arranged in an Xshaped formation as per the original SWG-X machine, while "R" stands for Reborn and Revolution, referring to a renewal of SHIMA SEIKI's WHOLEGARMENT® knitting that raises the technology to unprecedented levels. By increasing the number of systems from 3 to 4 and featuring auto yarn carriers, SWG-XR allows even higher productivity and vastly improved range of knitting.

In order to further support efforts in DX in the fashion industry, SHIMA SEIKI has released three new online services over the past year which will also be showcased at ITMA Asia: 'APEXFiz™' subscription-based design software; 'yarnbank ™' digital yarn sourcing web service; and 'SHIMAnAVI™' e-learning service.