From the Sector

At this year’s Techtextil India, the Polymer Processing Solutions Division of the Swiss Oerlikon group will be presenting the trade audience with new applications, special processes and sustainable solutions focusing on the production of industrial textiles. Between September 9 and 12, the discussions at Jio World Convention Centre (JWCC), Mumbai, will be concentrating on airbags, seat belts, tire cord, geotextiles, filter nonwovens and their diverse applications.

More polyester for airbags
The yarns used in airbags are made predominantly from polyamide. As a result of increasingly diverse airbag applications and also the increasing size of the systems used, polyester is today used as well, depending on the application requirements and cost-benefit considerations. Against this background, the Oerlikon Barmag technol-ogies make an invaluable contribution. In addition to high productivity and low energy consumption, they particularly excel in terms of their stable production processes. Furthermore, they comply with every high quality standard for airbags, which – as in the case of virtually all other textile products used in vehicle construction – must provide the highest level of safety for vehicle occupants - without any loss of function in any climate and for the lifetime of the vehicle

Buckle up!
Seat belts have to withstand tensile forces in excess of three tons and simultaneously stretch in a controlled manner in emergencies in order to reduce the load in the event of impact. A seat belt comprises approximately 300 filament yarns, whose individual, high-tenacity yarn threads are spun from around 100 individual filaments. “With our unique, patented Single Filament Layer Technology, we offer a sophisticated and simultaneously gentle high-tenacity (HT) yarn process for manufacturing these lifesavers and other applications made from industrial yarn”, explains André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing.

Road reinforcement using geotextiles
Low stretch, ultra-high tenacity, high rigidity – industrial yarns offer outstanding properties for the demand-ing tasks carried out by geotextiles; for instance, as geogrids in the base course system under asphalt. Normally, geotextiles have extremely high yarn titers of up to 24,000 denier. Oerlikon Barmag system concepts simultaneously manufacture three filament yarns of 6,000 denier each. Due to the high spinning titers, fewer yarns can be plied together to the required geo-yarn titer in a more cost- and energy-efficient manner.

hycuTEC –  quantum leap for filter media
In the case of its hycuTEC hydro-charging solution, Oerlikon Neumag offers a new technology for charging nonwovens that increases filter efficiency to more than 99.99%. For meltblown producers, this means material savings of 30% with significantly superior filter performance. For end users, the consequence is noticeably improved comfort resulting from significantly reduced breathing resistance. With its considerably lower water and energy consumption, this new development is also a future-proof, sustainable technology.

Beaulieu International Group will turn the spotlight on geotextile products with sustainability benefits to support progress in resilient civil engineering projects at the 12^th ICG Rome from 18^th -21^st September 2023, presenting options to target fossil carbon reduction by choosing PP-based staple fibres or woven geotextiles that are among the lowest in carbon footprint for geosynthetics.

For manufacturers of nonwoven geotextiles, Beaulieu Fibres International (BFI) offers PP fibres with > 25% carbon footprint reduction compared to the European standard PP fibres, generating 1.48 kg CO₂/kg PP fibres. A step further is to accelerate the replacement of fossil carbon in engineered fibre applications by choosing its ISCC Plus certified bio-attributed MONO-PP with a negative carbon footprint.

For construction projects, nonwoven geotextiles made with high-tenacity HT8 fibres are proven to secure a longer service lifetime and reduce the environmental impact, as they offer high mechanical performance at a reduced weight.

Beaulieu Technical Textiles' (BTT) woven geotextiles provide a wide range of functions, including separation, filtration, reinforcement and erosion control, and are among the most sustainable in the industry. Depending on weight, the carbon footprint of its woven geotextiles (m²) ranges between 0.37 and 1.40 kg CO₂ eq./m². They also minimize the use of natural resources for more sustainable infrastructure development. Case studies such as at the Ostend-Bruges airport highlight significant CO2 reduction on the jobsite by replacing the transport of 960 trucks of gravel with 3 trucks of woven geotextiles, and by extending the runway’s life span.

The ICG launch of its new line Terralys MF woven filtration geotextiles with monofilament boosts the performance of a common solution in building layers that require high water flow rates. High-tenacity extruded polypropylene tapes and monofilaments are interwoven to form dimensionally stable and highly permeable geotextiles. These new filtration geotextiles provide greater resistance to dirt and biological clogging. They allow water to travel freely while reducing soil erosion when employed as a separation and stabilizing layer.

As of September 2023, all PP staple fibres and woven geotextiles will have Environmental Product Declarations (EPD) based on LCAs. Each EPD is an essential tool for communicating and reporting on the sustainability performance and helps carbon-conscious customers in their purchasing and decision making. Registered EPDs are globally recognized, publicly available and free to download through EPD Libraries.

At the crosswinds of China’s 14^th Five-Year Plan for the Development of the Marine Economy and its 14^th Five-Year Guidance for the Development of the Technical Textiles Industry lies the marine textile sub-sector. Following the government’s directive, the Marine Textile Zone will be unfurled at this year’s fair, taking place from 19 – 21 September 2023 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre. Multiple exhibitors from across China have confirmed their participation within the zone, which will be comprised of three main parts: green marine science and nautical rope netting innovation display area, the Technology Exchange Forum, and the awards ceremony of the Top 10 Suppliers in the China Rope Net Industry.
 
The global rope market is predicted to experience a CAGR of 5.6% and grow by over USD 4 billion between 2022 - 2027[1], and suppliers are eager for the chance to meet buyers face to face. In fact, many will use the new zone at Asia’s leading technical textiles and nonwovens fair to do so.

In the green marine and rope netting category, exhibitors will showcase the latest innovations along the marine textile industry chain, anchored by application areas such as marine engineering, marine economy, marine fencing, marine rescue, deep-sea fishing, deep-sea aquaculture, and many more.

Featured exhibitors include:

• Ropenet Group: covering 36 application areas, such as aerospace, marine fisheries, safety protection, and emergency rescue, the Shandong-based company has exported to over 110 countries and regions. Products include ropes, nets, threads, and belts, with new materials and high-performance synthetic fibre spinning ropes forming the core of its business.
• Hunan Xinhai: with its Hunan factory covering 200,000 sqm, its industry-leading rope net production scale ensures it can service multiple sectors such as fisheries, sports, military industry, marine engineering, life-saving protection, and many more. Its extensive network spans Asia, Africa, Europe, and beyond.
• Zhejiang Four Brothers Rope: located in Zhejiang Toumen Port Economic Development Zone, the special chemical fibre rope manufacturer integrates R&D, manufacturing, sales, and after-sales service. After nearly 60 years of operation, the company now has a yearly production capacity of over 15,000 tons.

Other notable exhibitors in this zone include Xuzhou Henghui Braiding Machine; Shandong Jinguan Netting; Jiuli Rope; and Zhejiang Hailun Rope Net.

Meanwhile, the Technology Exchange Forum will focus on policies and regulations, strategic development opportunities, market analysis, product and process innovation, and the promotion and application of marine textiles. A range of well-known international and domestic experts have been invited to deliver comprehensive industry analysis, and unveil oceanic green textile initiatives onsite.

Designed to expand the influence of the rope net industry, the Top 10 Suppliers in the China Rope Net Industry awards will highlight enterprises currently making key contributions. Other fringe events related to this textile sub-sector include the Conference on Textile Applications for Marine Engineering and Fisheries, and the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA) Rope Net Branch Council Meeting.

Lastly, the Marine Textile Zone will also encompass a business negotiation area to facilitate negotiations between key players onsite, set against the backdrop of the innovation display area’s award-winning and patented rope net products. As a whole, the zone is expected to encourage independent innovation in marine science and technology, coordinate the protection and development of marine resources, and help build a modern maritime industrial system.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

The fair is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd; the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT; and the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA).

The Sustainability Report 2022, which is now digitally available summarizes key ecological, economic, and social developments.
The report shows that the CHT Group has defined and anchored sustainability as an integral part of its corporate strategy.
 

• The group of companies is pursuing the goal of becoming climate-neutral by 2045
• At the end of 2021, the CHT Group subscribed to the Science Based Targets initiative (SBTi) to meet the targets of the Paris Climate Agreement and committed to the 1.5 °C target
• 77 % of sales were achieved with sustainably classified products

The issue of sustainability has been anchored in the DNA of the internationally active foundation-owned group of companies for 70 years. No less an aspiration is derived from this than to support all customers with the most innovative, most sustainable products and solutions and thus to become the leading supplier of sustainable chemical products and solutions in all target markets.

"Climate neutrality" and comprehensive social responsibility  
In the implementation of the sustainability strategy of the CHT Group, the field of action "climate neutrality" takes a central role. The CHT Group has set itself the goal of being climate neutral both in its own production and in the supply chain from the year 2045. The path to climate neutrality by 2045 is illustrated in the report as part of the strategic goal.

In addition to climate protection, social responsibility is also a top priority for the CHT Group. The continuous improvement of health protection and occupational safety is a top priority for the company.

From CHT's point of view, qualified and committed employees make a significant contribution to the company's future success. For this reason, the CHT Group promotes the professional and personal development of its workforce to a high degree and invests in future-oriented and targeted training and further education of its workforce.

For the CHT Group, the respect for human rights is an indispensable pillar of the corporate culture and an essential part of the group-wide Code of Conduct. In 2022, the Human Rights Compliance Policy Statement was developed, and compliance processes and measures were put in place to prevent any violations and identify and mitigate human rights related risks.

‘Best of Bangladesh’ -- the first ever sole ‘Made in Bangladesh’ show in Europe -- aims to open the doors for Europe to experience what the Bangladeshi industries has to offer.

As Bangladesh celebrates five decades of strong ties with Europe, in order to further strengthen the ties and deepen collaborations with the partners across Europe, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange, supported by the Bangladesh Embassy in the Netherlands, is organizing the event in Amsterdam, Netherlands on September 4th and 5th, 2023.

The ‘Best of Bangladesh’ aims to serve as a dynamic platform to showcase the progress and potential across diverse sectors of Bangladesh economy, especially manufacturing.

A total of 40 Bangladeshi companies each of which is the country’s best from apparel, textile, leather, Agro, jute, handicrafts, pharmaceutical, light engineering, digital industry, FMCG and bicycle will showcase their sustainable and innovative products in the Best of Bangladesh.  

Bangladesh economy ranks as the world’s 37th largest now and it’s rapidly-expanding. The ‘Best of Bangladesh’ is being organized to accelerate interests and burgeoning engagements between the entrepreneurs and private sector entities on both European and Bangladeshi sides. The event has been structured to serve as a platform to showcase the multifaceted progress made and potential across diverse sectors of Bangladesh’s economy.

There will be an inaugural and 7 interactive panel sessions at the Best of Bangladesh on the topics ‘Bangladesh – Perspectives From An Emerging Economy’, ‘Bangladesh - Your Sustainable Sourcing Destination’, ‘Empowering the Future: Advancing Safety & Well-being for Garments Workforce in Bangladesh’, ‘Bangladesh Agro-Food: A Next Opportunity for Collaboration’, ‘Impact Investing - The Next Frontier’, ‘Sustainable Synergy: Circular Economy, Climate Action & Bangladesh’s Future’, and ‘Digitization and Digital Economy in Bangladesh’.

OETI – a member of the internationally active TESTEX Group – has bought the German company ECS to expand its service portfolio in the field of personal protective equipment (PPE).

OETI has been offering testing services for textile work clothing since 1983 – for about 40 years. Since the introduction of CE labelling for personal protective equipment and the enactment of the PPE Directive by the European Union in 1993, OETI has not only been testing textile personal protective equipment, but now on also certifies it in conformity with EU standards. In 1995, OETI was certified in Brussels as a Notified Body (0534) for type-examinations and quality assurance monitoring of personal protective equipment end products. Testing and certification is carried out in accordance with the current PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425.

Testing and Certification Body for Eye and Face Protection, based in Aalen, was founded 15 years ago and is a globally active institution for testing and certification of eye and face protection equipment. The company is one of the leading independent testing institutions for personal protection products in laser applications and for welding work.

ECS tests and evaluates occupational health and safety goggles with and without a filter action, passive and active switching protection filters and shields for welders, and laser protection filters, goggles, and shields. The company also tests the optical properties of sunglasses, sports glasses, ski goggles, swimming goggles and motorbike goggles.

With OETI’s takeover, the ECS location in Aalen is retained, and all employees will continue working at ECS. The new Managing Director of ECS GmbH as of 1 July 2023 is Dipl.-Ing. Rolf Diebolder.

‘We are present on the European market, on the American market and, via a representative office, on the Chinese market. With the aid of the new distribution channels through OETI and TESTEX, we want to steadily advance ECS’ expansion and be present on all five continents’, says Managing Director Rolf Diebolder, explaining his strategic plans for ECS. ‘I would like OETI and ECS to develop a joint strategy in order to be able to offer existing and new customers of both companies a complete package which, when combined, will give us a unique selling point in the marketplace’, says Diebolder.

Diebolder also sees further potential in the cooperation with regard to protective laser clothing. According to him, this is where the laser laboratory commissioned by ECS could be used to make textiles laser-safe. In the future, there will be more and more ‘hand-held’ devices, i.e. laser welding devices, for which gloves and protective jackets are needed.

Lectra supports the transformation of fashion, automotive and furniture companies by providing them with technological solutions that accelerate their transition to a more efficient and more sustainable Industry 4.0. In February, as part of the launch of its new roadmap, Lectra confirmed the importance of CSR in its strategy and presented its new priority measures for 2023-2025. By joining the UN Global Compact, Lectra demonstrates its commitment to reaching the Sustainable Development Goals of the United Nations.

Over the last few years, Lectra has stepped up its CSR initiatives. In 2011, the company implemented a CSR purchasing charter that covered 98% of its industrial purchases in 2022, excluding Gerber Technology (which was acquired in June 2021). In 2023, the new version of our CSR purchasing charter will be extended to Gerber suppliers, with the objective of enrolling 90% of all our industrial suppliers by 2025. Lectra also favors local procurement and production, as demonstrated by the recent inauguration of its manufacturing facility in Tolland, United States.

Another example: knowing that textiles generate 90% of the CO₂ emissions produced during the total lifecycle of a cutting room, Lectra strives to offer its customers solutions that optimize the use of materials. Lectra's equipment makes it possible to achieve material saving of 5 to 10%. In addition, to better inform consumers about product authenticity and provenant, the company has also expanded its software offer to material traceability, as show by the recent majority acquisition of TextileGenesis’ capital. Lectra is committed to systematically using eco-design principles by 2025 for its new equipment platforms in order to reduce its environmental footprint.

For 2023-2025, Lectra has decided to focus on 5 key areas through 12 measures:

1. MEETING THE HIGHEST ETHICAL STANDARDS
   - Uncompromising business ethics
   - Extension of our CSR purchasing policy
2. DESIGNING ECO-RESPONSIBLE OFFERS
   - Developing eco-designed products and services
   - Supplying products and services that help reduce our customers’ impact on the environment
   - Developing safe, accessible and easy-to-use solutions
3. FOSTERING AN INCLUSIVE, DIVERSE AND STIMULATING WORKING CULTURE
   - Zero tolerance for discrimination and harassment and equal opportunities for everyone
   - A working environment conducive to employee engagement
   - Balance between work and private life
   - Sustainable development of talents, team expertise and professional careers
   - Employees’ health and safety
4. REDUCING THE ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT OF OUR ACTIVITIES
   - Reducing the environmental impact of our company's activities
5. SUPPORTING FUTURE GENERATIONS
   - Supporting the development of professional skills and the employability of future generations

For the first time, BB Engineering (Germany) was an official subexhibitor of its parent company Oerlikon at ITMA Milan. In addition to man-made fibre spinning (VarioFil® compact spinning line) and fibre-to-fibre recycling (VacuFil® recycling technology), the company focused on introducing its new JeTex® airtexturizing system and left the fair with a pleasing volume of orders.

With the JeTex® air-texturizing system, BBE is expanding its product portfolio in order to be able to offer a finishing technology as well. It is a production line for high-quality air-texturized yarn (ATY). It combines an innovative texturing system developed by BB Engineering as key component with state-of-the-art components by Oerlikon Barmag to ensure fast production speed, the desired effects, and the quality of your product. At ITMA, JeTex® airtexturizing had its market launch.

Regarding the VarioFil® compact spinning line for synthetic fibres, BB Engineering also brought some innovations to ITMA. Higher production capacities per spinning position and improved spin pack lifetime form a new machine generation with increased productivity.

The VacuFil® PET recycling system was launched at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona. Over the last four years, BB Engineering has been working on further development and this time presented its solution for waste-free production of filament yarns. The patented liquid-state polycondensation (LSP) unit Visco+ for viscosity adjustment and control as key component was the main focus.

In general, BB Engineering assesses the ITMA as very positive and full of opportunities. According to company, the number of visitors and the interest in the topics of synthetic fibre spinning, fibre-to-fibre recycling and air-texturizing were continuously high. In addition to many discussions with existing customers and interested parties the medium-sized company recorded a level of incoming orders like never before.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg) announces the 37xx PES Series – a range of interlinings that offer the classic feel of cotton combined with the modern features of enhanced durability, increased yields, and low-temperature fusing. With a 100% PES base and special finish, these OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 Class I certified products open new possibilities for the business and smart casual segments.

Crafted from a 100% PES base with a special finish, these new interlinings boast enhanced durability and better resilience and recovery over traditional cotton interlinings. The 37xx PES Series interlinings offer the added advantages of no visible impurities or foreign fibers, along with low temperature fusing, reducing the risk of yellowing in the finished product. Compared with cotton interlinings, the 37xx PES Series also offers increased yields of up to 150 cm in width and are more cost effective than traditional cotton interlinings, allowing for easier and more efficient manufacturing.

Apart from the material qualities, the 37xx PES Series offers unmatched consumer safety. Produced at its Nantong, China factory, Freudenberg ensures optimal quality control of the 37xx Series. Furthermore, the interlinings are OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 Class I certified, making them safe for even the most sensitive skin types, including for babies.

The 37xx PES Series currently includes the 3738 and 3755 products, offered in 115 g/m2 and 165 g/m2 weights, respectively. These can be fused with other fabrics and interlinings to create the precise hand feel for garments.

• The A+A Expert Talks head into their third round

On 20 June 2023 between 10.00 am and 11.30 am experts from the fields of sustainability, circular economy, environmental protection as well as corporate fashion and product management will be presenting lectures and discussing the topics of sustainability in supply chains, standardisation and quality seals as well as the associated challenges and solutions in cooperation with German Fashion. They will thereby provide a platform for the exchange of knowledge, experience and innovative approaches.

The focus on sustainability and the circular economy reflects the growing relevance of these topics in the world of work. More and more companies recognise the need to make their business practices more sustainable and optimise the use of resources.

This Expert Talk will be presented by Irina Olm, In-House Lawyer & Counsel of GermanFashion Modeverband Deutschland e.V. and Expert for Circular Economy and CSR, who will contribute her know-how on the European level.  

Benjamin Helfritz, Head of Quality in Digital and Green Transformation, DIN – German Institute for Standardisation, will introduce participants to the new standards for the Green Transition.  
The Digital Product Passport (DPP) is needed for both the green and digital transition. However, it will only achieve its full added value if interoperability is ensured between existing and emerging systems. The use of the DPP promotes more sustainability and digital progress.

Henk Vanhoutte, Secretary General, European Safety Federation (ESF) and Lucia Mendori, Regulatory Affairs Associate / Chair ESF Working Group Sustainability will present practical examples and concrete application factors for sustainable PPE as well as solutions for sustainable jobwear. They will provide an overview of survey results from their members regarding various sustainability aspects – pointing to how the industry is treating this important topic but also flagging up the limits to the sustainability of PPE.

Lena Bay Høyland, Product Director of the Swedish workwear manufacturer Fristads Kansas will share the sustainability strategy of her company which has committed to minimise its environmental impact by targets and effective measures. The progress made by Fristads Kansas was measured using concrete figures and audits. This is a use case highlighting the innovations and challenges associated with sustainable jobwear.

By organising the Expert Talks the leading international trade fair A+A jointly with its strategic partners from the German Federal Association for Occupational Safety and Health (Basi), Fraunhofer IPA, German Fashion (Modeverband Deutschland e.V.), DGUV (Germany Statutory Accident Insurance), BAuA (Federal Agency for Occupational Safety and Health), BMAS (Ministry of Labour and Social Affairs), IVPS Interessenverbund Persönliche Schutzausrüstung e.V. (PPE Stakeholder Association) as well as IFA (Institute for Occupational Safety) will provide its community with a networking and information platform.