From the Sector

Quickly becoming the benchmark for sustainability, circularity presents a simple solution for many of the world’s complex waste issues. However, in a quickly changing textile marketplace with increasing regulatory pressures, designing circular products can be anything but simple.

To help demystify this accelerating paradigm shift, the Designing for Circularity panel is coming to Portland’s Functional Fabric Fair, where expert panelists will inform and inspire the next generation of product designers and developers.

Scheduled for Wednesday, April 17th at 2:00pm and hosted by textile industry communications agency Formidable Media, the Designing for Circularity panel will bring together experts in materials sourcing, textile finishes, trims, sustainability, recycling, natural materials, and more, to help designers, product developers, and brand representatives make the choices needed to become leaders in the future of sustainable products.

“Fashion is regularly listed among the top five largest polluting industries in the world and our panel of experts hope to  help shape future design and sustainability decisions to mitigate fashion’s outsized impact on the environment,” said Scott Kaier, Founder and President of Formidable Media. “Informed and innovative design is the first step in creating circular products, so today’s designers will be instrumental in creating a cleaner, more sustainable future.”

Hand-picked from across the outdoor, fashion, lifestyle, and footwear industries, the Designing for Circularity panelists include:

• Daniel Uretsky, President, ALLIED Feather + Down
• Martin Flora, VP of Business Development, Green Theme Technologies
• Sarah Schlinger, R&D Commercialization Manager, Woolmark
• Sharon Perez, Senior Business Development Manager, Lenzing Group
• Brian La Plante, Senior Manager of Sustainability, YKK
• Theresa McKenney Director of Sustainability, NEMO Equipment

In accordance with California’s Proper Labeling of Wet Wipes law (AB 818), state wastewater agencies and industry experts went deep to find out exactly what is passing through—and clogging up—municipal wastewater systems. The Responsible Flushing Alliance (RFA) alongside the California Association of Sanitation Agencies (CASA) and the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA) released the results from the largest known domestic sewage collection study conducted to reveal what’s really being flushed down the drain – and shouldn’t be.

“We took a forensic approach to this collection study, engaging industry and wastewater experts to examine our findings and determine what exactly is being flushed and how much of it,” said Adam Link, Executive Director at CASA, a co-sponsor of the Proper Labeling of Wet Wipes Law. “Now that we have the data to see what Californians are flushing and the types of non-flushable items that are causing issues within wastewater systems, local agencies can refine their public outreach and messaging to target specific problems and educate more efficiently.”

Collection and material investigation took place in October 2023 at two locations: Inland Empire Utilities Agency (IEUA) in Southern California and Central Contra Costa Sanitary District (Central San) in the greater San Francisco Bay Area in Northern California. Wastewater and wipes experts collected, sorted and identified more than 1,700 items pulled from the two locations during peak flow times. Kennedy Jenks, an independent engineering firm, designed the study and compiled the findings into the report.

Why Study What’s Being Flushed?
When products that aren’t meant to be flushed down the toilet wind up in the sewer system, it can cause serious threats to public and environmental health. In fact, estimates show that local public agencies throughout California (and the ratepayers they represent) are spending more than $47 million annually to repair wastewater treatment equipment and respond to sewer overflows caused by improper flushing.

“Part of keeping communities healthy requires not flushing things we shouldn’t,” said Lara Wyss, President of the RFA. “However, the data to support which non-flushable items to target as part of education campaigns has been lacking. That’s likely why when we surveyed Californians about what they are flushing, the results revealed that approximately 25% think baby wipes are flushable (which is never true) and 60% self-reported that they flushed something they knew they shouldn’t have.2 Our study results reinforce that finding, as more than 99% of materials collected were items that shouldn’t have been flushed.”

The breakdown of items collected from pipes at the two study locations included:
•    34.1% wipes labeled with the “Do Not Flush” symbol (baby wipes, cleaning wipes, makeup wipes, etc.)
•    64.9% other non-flushable items (paper towels, period products, trash, etc.)
•    0.9% wipes labeled as flushable

“We pulled material larger than 1-inch square directly from the bar screens, and it wasn’t until everything was sorted and identified that we could see what we actually had,” said Matt O’Sickey, Director of Education and Technical Affairs, INDA. “There were a lot of paper towels and baby wipes and all of the ‘Do Not Flush’ labeled wipes we collected were fully intact, showcasing why they should never be flushed.”

What Not to Flush—and How We Tell Consumers
According to the Proper Wet Wipes Labeling law, manufacturers of non-flushable wipes, including products such as baby wipes, cleaning wipes, makeup removal wipes and many others that are primarily used in a bathroom setting must include the “Do Not Flush” symbol on the front of the packaging.
The #FlushSmart consumer education campaign promotes the “Do Not Flush” symbol and provides information on what should and should not be flushed. The message shared with consumers is simple: Look for the “Do Not Flush” symbol on wipes packaging, and if you see it – throw the wipe out. Extrapolating from the results of this study, refraining from flushing “Do Not Flush” labeled wipes, paper products and feminine hygiene products would capture over 90% of items clogging sewers.

The association has launched another initiative to promote upskilling and reskilling in the textiles, clothing, leather and footwear industry: the “TCLF SkillBridge” project will focus on establishing regional skills partnerships.

In the context of the EU TCLF Pact for Skills, EURATEX will work together with CEC  and COTANCE  to support the creation of regional partnerships in the area skills; this new SkillBridge project, supported by the European Commission DG GROW, will specifically help to develop action plans with regional authorities, local TCLF industry and education providers. These action plans should respond to the changing needs of the TCLF industry in the area of education and skills. The project will also offer a mobility scheme for regional stakeholders from the industry and offer support to SMEs, to help them develop reskilling or upskilling initiatives in their company.

The TCLF SkillBridge project complements the MetaSkills and Aequalis projects, which have been launched earlier this year. They all share the same objectives which have been established in the TCLF Pact for Skills, and thus contribute to addressing one of the most critical bottlenecks which is faced by the TCLF industry: the shortage of qualified labour. These 3 projects will, collectively, allow EURATEX and its partners to work with all relevant stakeholders from our sector across the EU and beyond.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, welcomes these initiatives to support the TCLF industries: “Addressing the skills gap, and attracting young people with the right set of skills, is essential to strengthen the European textiles industry. We are grateful to the European Commission to offer the necessary support, and want to reach out especially to the regional authorities, to work together and design a skills strategy that works for its local TCLF industry.”

At the upcoming SaigonTex, taking place from April 10th to 13th in Ho Chi Minh City, the KARL MAYER GROUP will present its innovations.

DThe KARL MAYER exhibition for warp preparation is entirely dedicated to sustainability. With BLUEDYE, an innovative machine is introduced, which ensures more sustainability and lower costs in the process of indigo dyeing. Thanks to innovative technological solutions, the amounts of water and chemicals used are significantly reduced. Additionally, less yarn waste is generated. Another innovation for more sustainability is CASCADE, a steam and condensation system that requires significantly less steam in the drying process of sizing and indigo dyeing plants by using a solution for energy recycling that is protected against imitation.

For the warp knitting sector, the group of companies presents its latest technological developments. Highlights include a digital solution from KM.ON for optimizing production management (DPM), innovations for enhancing performance in the HKS segment, and a double raschel machine that enables unique creative multi-color designs in spacer textiles with more colour and new Jacquard techniques.

"Vietnam is a growing market for textile production, which is gaining importance especially for major international sports brands," says Eddy Ho, Senior Sales Manager at KARL MAYER.
The sales professional expects a large number of visitors, especially from Vietnam, China, Taiwan, and South Korea. SaigonTex is one of the most important textile machinery exhibitions in East Asia, located in close proximity to production centres. Vietnam is, in turn, the second most important market for the KARL MAYER GROUP after China. It benefits from increasing foreign direct investments in textile production from China, Taiwan, and South Korea.

The DITF is leading the joint project "DACCUS-Pre*". The basic idea of the project is to develop a new building material that stores carbon in the long term and removes more CO₂ from the atmosphere than is emitted during its production.       

In collaboration with the company TechnoCarbon Technologies, the project is now well advanced - a first demonstrator in the form of a house wall element has been realized. It consists of three materials: Natural stone, carbon fibers and biochar. Each component contributes in a different way to the negative CO₂ balance of the material:

Two slabs of natural stone form the exposed walls of the wall element. The mechanical processing of the material, i.e. sawing in stone cutting machines, produces significant quantities of stone dust. This is very reactive due to its large specific surface area. Silicate weathering of the rock dust permanently binds a large amount of CO₂ from the atmosphere.

Carbon fibers in the form of technical fabrics reinforce the side walls of the wall elements. They absorb tensile forces and are intended to stabilize the building material in the same way as reinforcing steel in concrete. The carbon fibers used are bio-based, produced from biomass. Lignin-based carbon fibers, which have long been technically optimized at DITF Denkendorf, are particularly suitable for this application: They are inexpensive due to low raw material costs and have a high carbon yield. In addition, unlike reinforcing steel, they are not susceptible to oxidation and therefore last much longer. Although carbon fibers are more energy-intensive to produce than steel, as used in reinforced concrete, only a small amount is needed for use in building materials. As a result, the energy and CO₂ balance is much better than for reinforced concrete. By using solar heat and biomass to produce the carbon fibers and the weathering of the stone dust, the CO₂ balance of the new building material is actually negative, making it possible to construct CO₂-negative buildings.

The third component of the new building material is biochar. This is used as a filler between the two rock slabs. The char acts as an effective insulating material. It is also a permanent source of CO₂ storage, which plays a significant role in the CO₂ balance of the entire wall element.

From a technical point of view, the already realized demonstrator, a wall element for structural engineering, is well developed. The natural stone used is a gabbro from India, which has a high-quality appearance and is suitable for high loads. This has been proven in load tests.  Bio-based carbon fibers serve as the top layer of the stone slabs. The biochar from Convoris GmbH is characterized by particularly good thermal insulation values.

The CO₂ balance of a house wall made of the new material has been calculated and compared with that of conventional reinforced concrete. This results in a difference in the CO₂ balance of 157 CO₂ equivalents per square meter of house wall. A significant saving!

* (Methods for removing atmospheric carbon dioxide (Carbon Dioxide Removal) by Direct Air Carbon Capture, Utilization and Sustainable Storage after Use (DACCUS).

Representatives from all 43 European partners of RegioGreenTex met for the Annual Consortium Meeting, hosted by CITEVE – the Portuguese Centre for textile innovation.

Co-funded by the European Union I3 Instrument Programme, RegioGreenTex is a €13 million project to promote investments in textile circularity. Research centres, regional clusters, regional development agencies and 26 SMEs collaborate to realise unique pilot projects to transform the textile industry business model from linear to circular.
 
The annual consortium meeting is a pivotal point to assess the project’s progress and impact. Presentations and workshops have been an essential part of the meeting, along with  networking opportunities where partners created synergies and discussed common challenges. Furthermore, all SME partners showcased their results through an exhibition with samples of garments, yarns, fabrics and products: the outcome of the project’s innovation so far. New collaborations and partners are expected to flourish as another outcome and the meeting.

EURATEX, as project coordinator, ensures the successful implementation of this ambitious initiative. Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, commented: “RegioGreenTex is an essential piece of our wider plan to implement the EU Sustainable Textile Strategy. Offering investment support to our SMEs is critical to make this green transition a success.”

The Directorship of Marchi & Fildi spa and Filidea srl announced the death of their President Massimo Marchi, in a tragic road accident on 11th March. His loss represents a moment of enormous sorrow for the Group and for the community to which Massimo Marchi contributed with such generosity and constructive spirit.

Massimo Marchi was an outstanding figure in the Italian and Biellese textile world.
Until his death, he was a member of the Council of Euratex, Vice President of SMI Sistema Moda Italia with responsibility for Research and Innovation, member of the Committee for Coordination and Management of Cluster Made In, and Councillor of the Association Tessile e Salute. His legacy will always be remembered and celebrated by those who had the privilege of knowing him and working with him.

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) have modernized and expanded their melt spinning pilot plant with support from the State of Baden-Württemberg. The new facility enables research into new spinning processes, fiber functionalization and sustainable fibers made from biodegradable and bio-based polymers.

In the field of melt spinning, the DITF are working on several pioneering research areas, for example the development of various fibers for medical implants or fibers made from polylactide, a sustainable bio-based polyester. Other focal points include the development of flame-retardant polyamides and their processing into fibers for carpet and automotive applications as well as the development of carbon fibers from melt-spun precursors. The development of a bio-based alternative to petroleum-based polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibers into polyethylene furanoate (PEF) fibers is also new. Bicomponent spinning technology, in which the fibers can be produced from two different components, plays a particularly important role, too.

Since polyamide (PA) and many other polymers were developed more than 85 years ago, various melt-spun fibers have revolutionized the textile world. In the field of technical textiles, they can have on a variety of functions: depending on their exact composition, they can for example be electrically conductive or luminescent. They can also show antimicrobial properties and be flame-retardant. They are suitable for lightweight construction, for medical applications or for insulating buildings.

In order to protect the environment and resources, the use of bio-based fibers will be increased in the future with a special focus on easy-to-recycle fibers. To this end, the DITF are conducting research into sustainable polyamides, polyesters and polyolefins as well as many other polymers. Many 'classic', that is, petroleum-based polymers cannot or only insufficiently be broken down into their components or recycled directly after use. An important goal of new research work is therefore to further establish systematic recycling methods to produce fibers of the highest possible quality.

For these forward-looking tasks, a bicomponent spinning plant from Oerlikon Neumag was set up and commissioned on an industrial scale at the DITF in January. The BCF process (bulk continuous filaments) allows special bundling, bulking and processing of the (multifilament) fibers. This process enables the large-scale synthesis of carpet yarns as well as staple fiber production, a unique feature in a public research institute. The system is supplemented by a so-called spinline rheometer. This allows a range of measurement-specific chemical and physical data to be recorded online and inline, which will contribute to a better understanding of fiber formation. In addition, a new compounder will be used for the development of functionalized polymers and for the energy-saving thermomechanical recycling of textile waste.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the election of five new members to serve on its 2024 Board of Directors. The Board of Directors play a key role in advancing INDA’s strategic objectives, actively supporting both the industry and the membership. Their primary responsibility lies in ensuring that INDA remains responsive to the evolving needs of its members and the broader nonwovens industry, guiding the formulation of policies and programs.

The five new Board members include:

• Jaren J. Edwards, President, Stein Fibers
• Edward McNally, Sales Director Nonwoven, Oerlikon Nonwoven
• Thomas Olsen, Senior Vice President, Americas Business Area, Suominen
• Patricia A Sargeant, Vice President, Glatfelter Corporation
• Paul Wood, President, Ontex North America

The Board is comprised of elected Board Officers. One-third of the entire Board is elected each year for a three-year term by INDA’s general membership. INDA’s Executive Committee, empowered to act on behalf of the Board between meetings, consists of the Board Officers plus appointees.
The Executive Committee includes:

• Chair: Mark Thornton, Vice President, The Procter & Gamble Company
• Vice Chair: Barbara Lawless, VP of Sales and Marketing – Medical Products, Precision Fabrics Group, Inc.
• Past Chair: Bryan Haynes, Senior Technical Director for Global Nonwovens, Kimberly-Clark Corporation
• Appointee: Mike Clark, President, Filtration Solutions, Hollingsworth & Vose Company
• Appointee: Jodi Russell, Vice President R&D, Cleaning Innovation, Packaging & Sustainability, The Clorox Company
• Appointee: Jeff Stafford, Vice President of Nonwovens, Milliken & Company
• Appointee: Robert Weilminster, EVP & General Manager, US & Canada – Health, Hygiene and Specialties Division, Berry Global
• Appointee: Tom Zaiser, CEO, Indorama Ventures

CARBIOS and Landbell Group, a global operator of more than 40 producer responsibility organizations (PROs) and a provider of closed-loop recycling solutions, announce the signing of a non-binding Memorandum of Understanding for the sourcing, preparation and recycling of post-consumer PET waste using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its first commercial plant in Longlaville from 2026.  

The partnership will leverage Landbell Group’s expertise and network in the sourcing of PET packaging and textile waste which will be prepared for biorecycling. Thanks to CARBIOS’ highly selective enzyme, less sorting and washing is required compared to current recycling technologies, offering future savings in energy and water use. From 2026, Landbell Group will supply CARBIOS with 15 kt/year of PET flakes, ensuring a steady supply chain for sustainable PET production. These flakes will serve as essential feedstock for CARBIOS’ production of food-grade PTA and MEG, further re-polymerized into PET.

Through the partnership with Landbell Group in Germany, the supply of multilayer trays through the CITEO tender in France  and the MoU with Indorama Ventures, CARBIOS will have sourced over 70% of its feedstock required for the 50kt/year capacity when its first commercial plant in Longlaville, France, will operate at full capacity. Close to the borders with Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg, the plant’s location is strategic for nearby waste supplies.

Through this partnership with CARBIOS, Landbell Group will ensure that the problematic PET fractions such as multilayered, colored and opaque trays from packaging waste and polyester textile waste are redirected towards recycling. In this way, Landbell Group strengthens its commitment to the development of recycling solutions to enable a circular economy.