From the Sector

It is getting exciting again in Cologne on 12 and 13 March for the cellulose fibres industry. Six new products have been nominated for the popular innovation award.

Every year, the conference organisator nova-Institute together with award sponsor GIG Karasek honours companies that impress with their creativity, technological progress and ecological impact. The aim of the award is not only to recognise the winners’ innovative products, but also to set an example for the courage to innovate.

The nominees’ presentations, the voting and the winner ceremony will take place on 12 March at the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025. Participants of the conference can vote live for the three winners. More than 220 people are expected to attend.

The Nominees

Fibers365 (DE): Hemp365 – Agricultural Decorative and Carrier Material
The solution “hemp365” is characterised by the development of a cost-effective, plant-based decorative and carrier material through the chemical-free processing of a regional agricultural fibre and the use of resulting short fibres in a wet-laid process, allowing for a massive reduction in the amount of fossil based binders required for strength and functionality. The non fibre content is less than 7 % and is also made from biogenic and biodegradable material. Hemp365 is 100% natural and vegan. It has been designed for consumer (fashion) and industrial applications in cooperation with an automotive OEM.

Releaf Paper France (FR): Releaf Fiber – Eco-Friendly Paper from Urban Fallen Leaves
Releaf Paper France transforms urban fallen leaves into sustainable cellulose fibres, offering an eco-friendly alternative to traditional hardwood pulp. Using proprietary low-temperature extraction, high-quality fibres with excellent paper-forming properties are isolated. With a cellulose content of 32-48 % and properties similar to hardwood, RELEAF fibres are ideal for packaging materials like corrugated paper, boxes, and bags. This innovative process, which requires minimal water and non-aggressive solvents, aligns with circular economy principles, repurposing millions of tons of urban leaf waste annually and supporting global brands in achieving sustainable packaging solutions.

SA-Dynamics (DE): Cellulose Aerogel Textiles – Next-Generation Insulation Materials
Cellulose Aerogel Textiles are revolutionary insulation materials made from 100 % biodegradable cellulose aerogel fibres. These combine the flexibility and ease of processing of traditional fabrics with the superior thermal insulation properties of aerogels by utilising a novel aerogel fibre process. Lightweight, highly efficient, and compatible with conventional textile machinery, they provide a sustainable alternative to fossil-based and animal-derived insulation materials. Fully recyclable and free from microplastic emissions, Cellulose Aerogel Textiles set a new benchmark for circular economy solutions in the textile and construction industries. Initial functional demonstrators were developed through two projects, funded by Biotexfuture and RWTH Innovation, respectively.

Sci-Lume Labs (US): Bylon® – Renewable Circular Fibres from Agricultural Waste
Sci-Lume Labs makes Bylon®, a scalable, circular, biosynthetic fibre. Using highly efficient chemistries to valorise agricultural waste, Bylon® seamlessly integrates into every step of the global value chain – from raw material production through textile manufacturing. Bylon® is distinct from incumbent and next-gen materials because it is simultaneously bio-based; waste-derived; degradable; recyclable; downstream-compatible; and melt-spinnable. Bylon® also offers a unique performance profile by combining the mechanical properties and tunability of traditional synthetics with the moisture properties and circularity of natural fibres. By not requiring changes to the supply chain, Bylon® empowers the industry to reduce its environmental impact – without compromising on quality, performance, or cost.

TMG Automotive (PT): REFIBER – Sustainable Automotive Surface Material
Textile-based composite solutions are a growing trend in the automotive sector, especially for decorative and functional interior applications. Innovative plant-based leather demonstrates this trend, combining sustainability with advanced performance. Developed from a biopolymer matrix combined with cellulose waste, this material transforms waste into a premium, eco-friendly solution. Its textile backing and non-woven laminate backing are also made entirely from cellulose fibres, creating a fully integrated bio-based composite. Designed for car interiors and more, this lightweight, durable and aesthetically versatile material sets a new standard for sustainable design, while satisfying the industry’s growing demand for circular and renewable alternatives.

Uluu (AU): Replacing plastic in textiles with natural, seaweed-derived materials
Uluu is an Australian start-up set to replace plastics with natural polymers called PHAs. Uluu materials are made from a regenerative feedstock: farmed seaweed, thus ending reliance on fossil fuels and land crops. Uluu, in partnership with Deakin University, is developing textiles that perform like synthetic polyester but are truly biodegradable and biocompatible, thus eliminating persistent microplastic pollution in fashion. Importantly, Uluu materials are reusable, recyclable, and most importantly, compostable. They are naturally produced through a unique fermentation process that uses seaweed, saltwater microbes and seawater. Uluu pellets can be directly substituted for plastic (e.g., polyester, nylon) in existing melt spinning equipment, creating yarns that can be knitted or woven into textiles. In addition to fibre-grade pellets, Uluu is also producing other grades of pellets to replace plastics used in e.g., buttons, sunglasses, hair clips and packaging.

The upcoming conference on 12-13 March 2025 in Cologne, Germany, will pave pathways to a sustainable textile industry.

Over the past few weeks, the Conference Advisory Board, and the experts from the nova-Institute, have thoroughly reviewed and evaluated over 40 submitted abstracts. The selected external experts bring new insights and perspectives from the pulp, fibre and further developing industries, promising to spark and deepen discussions at the event. Their expertise across the entire fibre value chain will enrich the topics covered and ensure a dynamic and insightful exchange of ideas. The presentations will provide a platform for the discussion at the conference after each session, and the Advisory Board members will foster a lively debate to drive innovation industry-wide.

Biosynthetics on the rise
Besides cellulose fibres, bio-based polymer fibres ("biosynthetics") are an excellent option to reduce fossil fibres in textiles. Biosynthetics offer a powerful alternative to traditional synthetic fibres, bringing both performance and technical properties that make them drop-in replacements. Derived wholly or partially from natural, renewable sources like lactic acids, sugar beet, sugarcane or wood, biosynthetics represent a bio-based option compared to fossil-based counterparts. In a special session “Biosynthetics - Replacing Traditional Synthetic Fibres”, experts will explore the latest advances, challenges and opportunities in the field. Discussing innovative approaches like biosynthetics is essential to drive sustainable transformation within the fashion and textile industries.

Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling: A Path to a Sustainable Textile Industry
The textile industry is at a crucial crossroad. The need for sustainable solutions to meet the EU's ambitious climate change targets is becoming increasingly urgent. Fibre-to-fibre recycling, which transforms discarded textiles into new, virgin fibres, holds great promise for reducing waste and resource consumption and helps to close the loop in textile production. While Europe has made progress in this area, challenges remain – in particular the management of mixed fibre textiles and the scaling up of recycling technologies. As new approaches are needed to tackle climate change, one session of the conference will focus on fibre-to-fibre recycling from textiles, exploring the latest innovations and technological advances, as well as the opportunities and barriers that need to be addressed to move the industry towards a circular, sustainable future.

Fibre Microplastic Formation versus Marine Biodegradability
The environmental impact of textiles extends far beyond landfill, with microplastics from synthetic fibres becoming a growing concern in marine ecosystems. A session at the conference will focus on the complex relationship between microplastic formation and marine biodegradability. While synthetic fibres shed microplastics during washing, these tiny particles, known as microfibres accumulate in the oceans and pose a serious threat to marine life. This session will explore the factors that influence fibre degradation in the marine environment and examine the potential of biodegradable fibres to reduce long-term pollution. Leading research institutes will discuss the challenges of balancing the prevention of microplastics with the development of fibres that can degrade naturally in marine ecosystems, and provide insights into innovative solutions that could help mitigate this pressing environmental issue.

Innovation Award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025”
The nova-Institute, together with GIG Karasek, is looking for the best fibre innovations of the year. Applicants from the area of cellulose fibres as well as biosynthetics are welcome to submit their innovations. Technologie providers, research institutes or producers can apply until 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.

Apply for the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” award: cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for Posters
The poster exhibition is a highly anticipated scientific event at the conference, especially for early career scientists. Poster submission is open until 31 January 2025.

The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2024” held in Cologne on 13-14 March demonstrated the innovative power of the cellulose fibre industry. Several projects and scale-ups for textiles, hygiene products, construction and packaging showed the growth and bright future of this industry, supported by the policy framework to reduce single-use plastic products, such as the Single Use Plastics Directive (SUPD) in Europe.

40 international speakers presented the latest market trends in their industry and illustrated the innovation potential of cellulose fibres. Leading experts introduced new technologies for the recycling of cellulose-rich raw materials and gave insights into circular economy practices in the fields of textiles, hygiene, construction and packaging. All presentations were followed by exciting panel discussions with active audience participation including numerous questions and comments from the audience in Cologne and online. Once again, the Cellulose Fibres Conference proved to be an excellent networking opportunity to the 214 participants and 23 exhibitors from 27 countries. The annual conference is a unique meeting point for the global cellulose fibre industry.  

For the fourth time, nova-Institute has awarded the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” Award at the Cellulose Fibres Conference. The Innovation Award recognises applications and innovations that will lead the way in the industry’s transition to sustainable fibres. Close race between the nominees – “The Straw Flexi-Dress” by DITF & VRETENA (Germany), cellulose textile fibre from unbleached straw pulp, is the winning cellulose fibre innovation 2024, followed by HONEXT (Spain) with the “HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0)” from fibre waste from the paper industry, while TreeToTextile (Sweden) with their “New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre” won third place.

Prior to the event, the conference advisory board had nominated six remarkable innovations for the award. The nominees were neck and neck, when the winners were elected in a live vote by the audience on the first day of the conference.

First place
DITF & VRETENA (Germany): The Straw Flexi-Dress – Design Meets Sustainability
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

Second place
Honext Material (Spain): HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, the product is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

Third Place
TreeToTextile (Sweden): A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn’t exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

The next conference will be held on 12-13 March 2025.

From Resource-efficient and Recycled Fibres for Textiles and Building Panels to Geotextiles for Glacier Protection: Six award nominees present innovative and sustainable solutions for various industries in the cellulose fibre value chain. The full economic potential of the cellulose fibre industry will be introduced to a wide audience that will vote for the winners in Cologne (Germany), and online.

Again nova-Institute grants the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award in the context of the “Cellulose Fibres Conference”, that will take place in Cologne on 13 and 14 March 2024. In advance, the conferences advisory board nominated six remarkable products, including cellulose fibres from textile waste and straw, a novel technology for dying cellulose-based textiles and a construction panel as well as geotextiles. The innovations will be presented by the companies on the first day of the event. All conference participants can vote for one of the six nominees and the top three winners will be honoured with the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” award. The Innovation award is sponsored by GIG Karasek (AT).

In addition, the ever-growing sectors of cellulose-based nonwovens, packaging and hygiene products offer conference participants insights beyond the horizon of traditional textile applications. Sustainability and other topics such as fibre-to-fibre recycling and alternative fibre sources are the key topics of the Cellulose Fibres Conference, held in Cologne, Germany, on 13 and 14 March 2024 and online. The conference will showcase the most successful cellulose-based solutions currently on the market or those planned for the near future.

The nominees:

The Straw Flexi-Dress: Design Meets Sustainability – DITF & VRETENA (DE)
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry – Honext Material (ES)
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, it is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

LENZING™ Cellulosic Fibres for Glacier Protection – Lenzing (AT)
Glaciers are now facing an unprecedented threat from global warming. Synthetic fibre-based geotextiles, while effective in slowing down glacier melt, create a new environmental challenge: microplastics contaminating glacial environments. The use of such materials contradicts the very purpose of glacier protection, as it exacerbates an already critical environmental problem. Recognizing this problem, the innovative use of cellulosic LENZING™ fibres presents a pioneering solution. The Institute of Ecology, at the University of Innsbruck, together with Lenzing and other partners made first trials in 2022 by covering small test fields with LENZING™ fibre-based geotextiles. The results were promising, confirming the effectiveness of this approach in slowing glacier melt without leaving behind microplastic.

The RENU Jacket – Advanced Recycling for Cellulosic Textiles – Pangaia (UK) & Evrnu (US)
PANGAIA LAB was born out of a dream to reduce barriers between people and the breakthrough innovations in material science. In 2023, PANGAIA LAB launched the RENU Jacket, a limited edition product made from 100% Nucycl® – a technology that recycles cellulosic textiles by breaking them down to their molecular building blocks, and reforming them into new fibres. This process produces a result that is 100% recycled and 100% recyclable when returned to the correct waste stream – maintaining the strength of the fibre so it doesn’t need to be blended with virgin material.
Through collaboration with Evrnu, the PANGAIA team created the world’s first 100% chemically recycled denim jacket, replacing a material traditionally made from 100% virgin cotton. By incorporating Nucycl® into this iconic fabric construction, dyed with natural indigo, the teams have demonstrated that it’s possible to replace ubiquitous materials with this innovation.

Textiles Made from Easy-to-dye Biocelsol – VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland (FI)
One third of the textile industry’s wastewater is generated in dyeing and one fifth in finishing. But the use of chemically modified Biocelsol fibres reduces waste water. The knitted fabric is made from viscose and Biocelsol fibres and is only dyed after knitting. This gives the Biocelsol fibres a darker shade, using the same amount of dye and no salt in dyeing process. In addition, an interesting visual effect can be achieved. Moreover, less dye is needed for the darker colour tone in the finished textile and the possibility to use the salt-free dyeing is more environmentally friendly.
These special properties of man-made cellulosic fibres will reassert the fibres as a replacement for the existing fossil-based fibres, thus filling the demand for more environmentally friendly dyeing-solutions in the textile industry. The functionalised Biocelsol fibres were made in Finnish Academy FinnCERES project and are produced by wet spinning technique from the cellulose dope containing low amounts of 3-allyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl substituents. The functionality formed is permanent and has been shown to significantly improve the dyeability of the fibres. In addition, the functionalisation of Biocelsol fibres reduces the cost of textile finishing and dyeing as well as the effluent load.

A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre – TreeToTextile (SE)
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn't exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

International experts will discuss topics along the entire cellulose fibre value chain at the upcoming Cellulose Fibres Conference, 8–9 March 2023 in Cologne and online.

How can the cellulose fibre industry contribute to the sustainability and circularity of the textile sector? How can fibre markets achieve a circular economy for their materials? What are the most sustainable technologies on the market? And, are there innovative, interesting raw materials and technologies worth exploring to meet the challenges of the coming years?

These and other questions in the field of cellulose fibres will be discussed within the program of the Cellulose Fibres Conference 2023. The two-day event will provide insights into the latest developments of the cellulose fibre sector and introduce innovative start-ups, technologies as well as novel fibre applications. A special focus will be set on the textile sector and its awaited paradigm shift towards circular economy in the following years.

Seven sessions will provide in depth views from fibre production to recycling, policy and market trends:

• Strategies, Policy Framework of Textiles and Market Trends,
• Circular Economy and Recyclability of Fibres,
• Alternative Feedstocks and Supply Chains,
• Innovation Award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2023″,
• Sustainability and Environmental Impacts,
• Ionic Liquids and New Technologies for Pulps, Fibres and Yarns,
• New Technologies and Applications beyond Textiles.

The full conference program is available here.