From the Sector

As the 2024 edition of Techtextil, the leading international trade fair for technical textiles and nonwovens, gets underway in Frankfurt, Beaulieu Fibres International is introducing its Sustainable Fibres Program to help reshape fibres for sustainable solutions.

Through the initiative the company is looking to gain deeper insights into the challenges encountered by customers across the value chain to identify opportunities to leverage its expertise to deliver impactful products and services.

Beaulieu has identified several conversation triggers for Techtextil 2024, including recyclable, high performance, renewable, bio-circular, co-developed and made in Europe fibres, to find out what matters most to customers in terms of targets, green initiatives and sustainability expectations.
The Sustainable Fibres Program serves as a charter to help Beaulieu Fibres International accelerate its ‘fibres that build futures’ campaign, by educating on existing solutions, reshaping products and creating partnerships to facilitate market cooperation on shared challenges.

In addition to leading the market within the framework of the European Green Deal, and alignment with the objectives of the proposed Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, Beaulieu Fibres International is committed to achieving its own sustainability targets outlined in its roadmap known as ROUTE 2030.

CARBIOS was awarded 1st prize in the "So French So Innovative" Award organized by Business France, the Hong Kong Committee of French Foreign Trade Advisors (CCEF), La French Tech and its partners at InnoEX 2024 (taking place in Hong Kong from 13 to 16 April). The award recognizes French innovation to promote and support French Tech in the Asia-Pacific region. The final awards ceremony was held on the French pavilion in the presence of members of the Hong Kong Government and Christile Drulhe, Consul General of France in Hong Kong.

Emmanuel Ladent, CEO of CARBIOS: "Asia-Pacific is a key market for our PET biorecycling solution, and the 'So French So Innovative' Award is a recognition that supports CARBIOS’ prospection and commercial deployment in the region. CARBIOS' technology is generating a lot of interest, leading to promising discussions and the exploration of commercial agreements to support the sustainability commitments and international operations of current and future partners."

CARBIOS' global presence
In a dynamic global PET market, where the share of recycled PET will increase, CARBIOS' ambition is to become a leading r-PET player by 2035. CARBIOS has extended its international reach to boost its commercial deployment worldwide. Teams in place in key markets are dedicated to identifying business opportunities and establishing commercial partnerships for PET biorecycling technology, with first agreements expected in 2024. To date, CARBIOS is represented in three regions: Europe, North America (including Canada) and Asia (China, Japan, Korea, Singapore, Taiwan, and soon India).

• CARBIOS Group’s solid financial structure: cash position of €192 million on December 31, 2023
• Construction progress of world’s first PET biorecycling plant in France: in line with delivery targets for customers in 2026
• Licensing: international sales teams deployed in more than ten countries, with several partnerships feasible for 2024

CARBIOS reported its operating and financial results for the financial year 2023. The financial statements as of December 31, 2023, were approved by the Company’s Board of Directors at their meeting on April 10, 2024.

2023 Financial highlights
The consolidated financial statements of the Company as of December 31, 2023, are presented in accordance with International Financial Reporting Standards (IFRS) as issued by the International Accounting Standards Board (IASB) and adopted by the European Union.

For 2022 and 2023, these IFRS consolidated financial statements include the financial statements of CARBIOS, the parent company, and the financial statements of its fully integrated subsidiaries Carbiolice and CARBIOS 54. The group formed by CARBIOS, Carbiolice and CARBIOS 54 is hereinafter referred to as the “Group”.

These IFRS financial statements for the Group have been prepared to provide high quality information in line with that of similar companies and based on international standards.

Outlook
Given the progress made by the Group during 2023 and the success of the financing operation closed in July 2023 as well as the received grants, CARBIOS confirms its operating targets and the provisional calendar of the industrial and commercial deployment of its PET biorecycling technology.
2024  • Construction of the Longlaville plant further to permits obtained in October 2023
2024  • Recruitment of plant operations team and training at demonstration facility
2026  • First significant deliveries to clients

Alongside this project, CARBIOS aims to sign its first licensing contracts for its PET biorecycling technology in 2024.

The John Lewis Partnership announces the appointment of Jason Tarry as its seventh Chairman following Sharon White’s decision to step down at the end of her term.

Jason brings over 33 years of experience at Tesco where he was most recently the UK & Ireland CEO, a role he held for six years. His experience spans grocery, general merchandise and fashion in senior commercial, operational and general management positions, having joined the Tesco graduate programme in 1990.

In addition to delivering market leading grocery performance in the UK, he led the expansion of F&F Clothing across Europe as Group CEO. Jason is expected to take up the role in September, at which point Sharon will step down and support the transition as required.

Rita Clifton, Deputy Chairman and Chair of the Nomination Committee, said: “The Board extends its huge thanks to Sharon for successfully leading the Partnership through one of the most testing periods in its history - first Covid and then the cost of living crisis. She has faced into the toughest decisions and overseen the Partnership's financial recovery; we are in good financial health with a return to profit, and have a strong balance sheet with record investment planned this year. Sharon has also helped ensure that employee ownership of the Partnership is secure, is demonstrably focused on its purpose as a force for good and with an open and inclusive culture.

“As the Partnership moves into the next phase of its modernisation focused on our core retail business as well future growth, we are confident that Jason will provide the kind of inspirational leadership, a proven track record in multi-channel, multi-category retail success and a strong identification with Partnership values that we are seeking in this role. Jason has impressed everyone throughout the interview process with his warmth, his belief in the Partnership’s ideals and democratic principles and his appreciation for our unique and special brands.”

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel Europe (Freudenberg) has reached a further sustainability milestone: The new Freudenberg Apparel Competence Center in Sant’Omero, Italy, successfully completed the 4sustainability® Chemical Management protocol (4s CHEM) recently and reached the Advanced Level. The aim of the protocol is to progressively eliminate toxic and hazardous chemicals and related risks throughout the production process.

Competence center for interlinings
Freudenberg opened its Apparel Competence Center in Sant’Omero in May 2023. The factory in Italy is an innovative competence center that coats and finishes nonwoven, woven and weft interlinings for apparel customers in Europe.
Freudenberg has now taken the next logical step: as part of a comprehensive audit, the Apparel Competence Center has implemented ZDHC guidelines in its production process. To achieve this, Freudenberg called in the experts from Process Factory, a consultancy that specializes in sustainability topics. With their support, Freudenberg’s Sant’Omero site has reached the Advanced level of the 4sustainability® Chemical Management protocol (4s CHEM), in line with the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Program.
Implementation is controlled annually based on this protocol and offers companies in the fashion industry a degree of reliability. It guarantees structured, fully transparent procedures, regular monitoring, and continuous control of Freudenberg’s production processes.  

ZDHC
By demonstrating its rejection of environmentally harmful chemicals and substances, the Apparel Competence Center shows that Freudenberg gives top priority to taking responsibility for people and the environment.
The aim of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Foundation and its globally recognized Roadmap to Zero Program is to eliminate the release of toxic chemicals in the textile and fashion industry’s supply chain based on the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL).
By applying the 4s CHEM protocol, the production site in Sant’Omero is sending a clear signal to the fashion industry that Freudenberg products meet the highest quality standards and are also safe and environmentally friendly.

The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2024” held in Cologne on 13-14 March demonstrated the innovative power of the cellulose fibre industry. Several projects and scale-ups for textiles, hygiene products, construction and packaging showed the growth and bright future of this industry, supported by the policy framework to reduce single-use plastic products, such as the Single Use Plastics Directive (SUPD) in Europe.

40 international speakers presented the latest market trends in their industry and illustrated the innovation potential of cellulose fibres. Leading experts introduced new technologies for the recycling of cellulose-rich raw materials and gave insights into circular economy practices in the fields of textiles, hygiene, construction and packaging. All presentations were followed by exciting panel discussions with active audience participation including numerous questions and comments from the audience in Cologne and online. Once again, the Cellulose Fibres Conference proved to be an excellent networking opportunity to the 214 participants and 23 exhibitors from 27 countries. The annual conference is a unique meeting point for the global cellulose fibre industry.  

For the fourth time, nova-Institute has awarded the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year” Award at the Cellulose Fibres Conference. The Innovation Award recognises applications and innovations that will lead the way in the industry’s transition to sustainable fibres. Close race between the nominees – “The Straw Flexi-Dress” by DITF & VRETENA (Germany), cellulose textile fibre from unbleached straw pulp, is the winning cellulose fibre innovation 2024, followed by HONEXT (Spain) with the “HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0)” from fibre waste from the paper industry, while TreeToTextile (Sweden) with their “New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre” won third place.

Prior to the event, the conference advisory board had nominated six remarkable innovations for the award. The nominees were neck and neck, when the winners were elected in a live vote by the audience on the first day of the conference.

First place
DITF & VRETENA (Germany): The Straw Flexi-Dress – Design Meets Sustainability
The Flexi-Dress design was inspired by the natural golden colour and silky touch of HighPerCell® (HPC) filaments based on unbleached straw pulp. These cellulose filaments are produced using environmentally friendly spinning technology in a closed-loop production process. The design decisions focused on the emotional connection and attachment to the HPC material to create a local and circular fashion product. The Flexi-Dress is designed as a versatile knitted garment – from work to street – that can be worn as a dress, but can also be split into two pieces – used separately as a top and a straight skirt. The top can also be worn with the V-neck front or back. The HPC textile knit structure was considered important for comfort and emotional properties.

Second place
Honext Material (Spain): HONEXT® Board FR-B (B-s1, d0) – Flame-retardant Board made From Upcycled Fibre Waste From the Paper Industry
HONEXT® FR-B board (B-s1, d0) is a flame-retardant board made from 100 % upcycled industrial waste fibres from the paper industry. Thanks to innovations in biotechnology, paper sludge is upcycled – the previously “worthless” residue from paper making – to create a fully recyclable material, all without the use of resins. This lightweight and easy-to-handle board boasts high mechanical performance and stability, along with low thermal conductivity, making it perfect for various applications in all interior environments where fire safety is a priority. The material is non-toxic, with no added VOCs, ensuring safety for both people and the planet. A sustainable and healthy material for the built environment, it achieves Cradle-to-Cradle Certified GOLD, and Material Health CertificateTM Gold Level version 4.0 with a carbon-negative footprint. Additionally, the product is verified in the Product Environmental Footprint.

Third Place
TreeToTextile (Sweden): A New Generation of Bio-based and Resource-efficient Fibre
TreeToTextile has developed a unique, sustainable and resource efficient fibre that doesn’t exist on the market today. It has a natural dry feel similar to cotton and a semi-dull sheen and high drape like viscose. It is based on cellulose and has the potential to complement or replace cotton, viscose and polyester as a single fibre or in blends, depending on the application.
TreeToTextile Technology™ has a low demand for chemicals, energy and water. According to a third party verified LCA, the TreeToTextile fibre has a climate impact of 0.6 kg CO2 eq/kilo fibre. The fibre is made from bio-based and traceable resources and is biodegradable.

The next conference will be held on 12-13 March 2025.

ACG Kinna Automatic and ACG Nyström – members of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association – have delivered the first microfactory for the production of fully finished filter bags to an international filtration industry customer, in cooperation with JUKI Central Europe.

The microfactory’s configuration is based on two separate interconnecting modules – the Smart Filter Line (SFL) and the Filtermaster 2.0. The SFL handles the fabric feeding from rolls and its folding prior to seam construction, which can either be by automatic sewing, welding or with sewing and taping, depending on specifications. Very rapid changeover of the modular seaming methods can be achieved during product changes. The specific size of the now fully-tubular fabric is then precisely cut to size for each individual unit and further folded ready to be fed into the Filtermaster 2.0. The Filtermaster 2.0 then automatically attaches the reinforcement, bottom and snap rings onto the filter tube with a second Juki sewing head on a robotic arm, to form the fully finished filter bag ready for packaging.

Filter bags are employed in a wide range of industrial processes and while they may be largely under the radar as products, they represent a pretty significant percentage of overall technical textiles production.
They are used in foundries, smelters, incinerators, asphalt plants and energy production plants. Other key manufacturing fields – often where dust is generated – include the production of timber, textiles, composites, waste handling and minerals, in addition to chemicals, food production, pharmaceuticals, electronics and agriculture.

As a further example of the scale of the industry and the high volumes of fabrics involved, one supplier has delivered a single order of 30,000 filter bags to be used for flue gas cleaning at a European power plant. The bags can also be anywhere up to twelve metres in length and frequently have to be replaced.

In the fringes of the EU Research and Innovation Days, the European Commission has announced 9 new European co-funded and co-programmed partnerships, including “Textiles of the Future”. These partnerships will be at the core of the Horizon Europe Strategic Plan 2025-2027, addressing the green and digital transition, and a more resilient, competitive, inclusive and democratic Europe.

EURATEX has been working towards such a partnership over the last few years. Investing in innovation is a critical component to successfully implement the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles. EURATEX therefore welcomes the Commission’s decision, as a measure to help their 200.000 EU textile companies to remain competitive.

The Textiles of the Future Partnership will be co-managed by the European Technology Platform for Future of Textiles and Clothing (ETP). With a deep knowledge in textiles research and a vast innovation network, ETP stands ready to bring that partnership into reality.

The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) applauds the European Parliament's vote to ban unverified 'green' product labels by enforcing stricter rules to back green claims and labels. By obligating companies to submit evidence about environmental marketing claims – including advertising and labelling products as ‘biodegradable’, ‘less polluting’, ‘water saving’, or having ‘bio-based content’ – consumers will be able to make better informed decisions about the sustainability of their purchases.

Consumers need protection from greenwashing and false claims about a product’s environmental impact. GOTS provides rules and tools for fostering responsible business practices and to support businesses to comply with domestic and international laws and beyond. The current GOTS Version 7.0 includes rigorous criteria for the protection of human, employment and social rights, as well as the environment and climate. By being certified to GOTS 7.0 and selling GOTS-labelled goods, companies are demonstrating their commitment to sustainability and human rights.

Mimaki Europe hat die Markteinführung seines neuen Textil-Transferdrucksystems für Pigmenttinte, „TRAPIS", bekanntgegeben.

TRAPIS basiert auf einem einfachen zweistufigen Verfahren, das einen Tintenstrahldrucker und einen Kalander umfasst. Das gewünschte Design wird mit dem Tintenstrahldrucker mit einer speziell entwickelten Tinte auf Transferpapier gedruckt, welches dann über einen Kalander auf die Anwendung übertragen wird. Im Gegensatz zu herkömmlichen analogen und digitalen Farbdruckverfahren fällt bei TRAPIS fast kein Abwasser an, lediglich das für die automatische Wartung des Druckers benötigte Wasser. Da keine Vorbehandlung und kein Waschen des Gewebes erforderlich sind, können im Vergleich zum digitalen Druckverfahren mit Dye-Tinten etwa 14,5 Liter Wasser pro Quadratmeter eingespart werden

TRAPIS bietet Druckdienstleistern eine benutzerfreundliche Option für den Textildruck. Da das Verfahren nur aus einem Druck- und einem Transfervorgang besteht, werden im Gegensatz zu den beim herkömmlichen Digital- und Analogdruck verwendeten sieben- oder achtstufigen Systemen keine Spezialfähigkeiten zur Bedienung benötigt. Das System hat kein Textilförderband, sodass keine zeitaufwändigen Wartungsarbeiten erforderlich sind.

Da TRAPIS in der Lage ist, mit nur einer Tinte eine Vielzahl unterschiedlicher Materialien einschließlich Naturfasern wie Baumwolle und Seide sowie Mischgewebe zu bedrucken, wird der Prozess noch weiter vereinfacht und lässt sich flexibel an die Anforderungen der Kunden anpassen, auch bei Kleinserien, bei denen mehrere Materialien zum Einsatz kommen. Die dazugehörige Tinte besitzt außerdem die Zertifizierung ZDHC MRSL Level 3 und trägt das bluesign® APPROVED-Siegel, das die Sicherheit von Arbeitnehmern und Verbrauchern sowie die Umweltfreundlichkeit des Produkts gewährleistet. Wie bei den bestehenden Textillösungen von Mimaki behalten die mit TRAPIS produzierten Drucke ihre Dehnbarkeit und Farbechtheit bei, ohne Aspekte wie Atmungsaktivität und Wasseraufnahmefähigkeit zu beeinträchtigen, die für Sektoren wie Heimtextilien, Activewear und Fashion besonders wichtig sind.