From the Sector

Monforts will exhibit at the upcoming Morocco Stitch & Tex 2025 exhibition which is taking place at the Casablanca International Fairground (OFEC) from May 13-15 at a critical juncture for the region’s textile manufacturers.

North African countries are currently looking to bolster their strong garment manufacturing operations with an expansion of textile production and finishing capacity, particularly with a view to exploiting the many benefits of the region’s close proximity to Europe and its cost and operational advantages. Morocco is already in the top ten of suppliers to the EU and has also had a free trade agreement with the USA since 2006. It further looks set to emerge as a beneficiary of the recently-proposed new tariffs on imports to the USA – if they eventually go ahead – compared to its competitors in Asia.

As a specialist in advanced technology for fabric finishing, Monforts is well positioned to help.

Industry standard
Montex stenters for fabric finishing are the industry standard, particularly in the sectors of denim and home textiles, providing a number of advantages in terms of production throughput and especially in energy efficiency and savings. The other key technologies in the company’s range include relaxation dryers, Thermex dyeing ranges, Monfortex compressive shrinking ranges and MontexCoat and coaTTex coating units.

In 2024, Monforts celebrated its 140th anniversary and its technologies are based on successive industry developments and know-how accummulated over many decades. The company was founded in 1884 in Mönchengladbach in Germany where it is still headquartered and where its Advanced Technology Centre (ATC) for fully industrial testing and trials for customers is also situated. Monforts machines have been manufactured at the company’s plant in Austria since 1982.

Retrofitting
Textile companies making major capital investments in new manufacturing lines rely on durability and it’s for this reason that there are currently an estimated 2,000 Monforts machines in operation worldwide – some of which were first installed over 30 years ago. This doesn’t mean, however, that they can’t benefit from many of the advances in performance and automation that have subsequently been made by Monforts. The retrofitting of specific modules with new control and drive technology – going far beyond the basic replacement of spare parts – can have a significant impact on the performance of an existing line.

Double-digit increases
“We have a strong presence in North Africa, particularly in Morocco, Algeria and Egypt, which remain key markets for us,” says Monforts Area Sales Manager Achim Gesser who will be at the show at stand D4 with specialists from Unionmatex, the company’s regional partner. “Imports of European textile machinery to Morocco have already been increasing in double-digit figures over the past few years and some exciting projects are currently underway there.”

These include plans to construct Africa’s largest textiles and garment manufacturing city in Morocco based on 568 factories and representing a planned investment of US$2 billion.

“There has been a lot of interest, in particular from Turkish textile manufacturers, in expanding their operations to North Africa and with over 600 line installations already established in Turkiye we have built up a lot of close relationships with the major textile manufacturers there,” Gesser adds. “We expect a lot of these companies to be at this major exhibition in Morocco, especially as it is covering the complete supply chain – from machinery and fibre and yarn suppliers to finished garment specialists. The Moroccan government’s Vision 2025 programme is targeting earnings of $10 billion for the clothing and garment sector at an average annual growth rate of 15% over the next five years and we are keen to help companies looking to contribute to this unprecedented growth.”

The Jakob Müller Group (JMG), a global leader in narrow fabric machinery, is pushing forward with the implementation of its JMG 2030 strategy. This strategy aims to solidify the company's market leadership, respond more agilely to the dynamic industry landscape, and align even more closely with customer needs. The current measures focus specifically on the company's core competencies and include, among other things, simplified corporate structures, adjustments and expansions of the product portfolio, a new acquisition, and targeted customer initiatives. With this, JMG strengthens its position in the market and lays the foundation for sustainable growth for the long-standing Swiss company.

The Swiss industrial landscape is changing – as is the global textile machinery industry, for which JMG manufactures machines and system solutions. As part of its JMG 2030 strategy, the world's leading machine manufacturer has now presented a series of measures designed to secure its market leadership and enable long-term growth.

JMG is investing specifically in strengthening customer focus and modernizing both its product portfolio and global internal processes. This includes the creation of innovative customer collaboration platforms, the expansion of the product portfolio in the volume segment, the optimization of the service offering, as well as the simplification of corporate and management structures.

Focus on core competencies and operational excellence
As part of its strategic realignment, JMG will increasingly focus on its core segments of Weaving, Label Production Systems, Warp Crochet Knitting, as well as Dyeing and Finishing. At the same time, the Winding & Making-up and Warping Systems segments at the JMG site in Schwelm, Germany, will be discontinued, with essential technologies and products being transferred to other areas. In addition, the Finishing segment will be relocated from Kadan, Czech Republic, to JMG’s sister company Benninger in Pune, India. These measures will lead to structural adjustments at the locations in Germany and the Czech Republic, where production will be gradually reduced.

"Even though these decisions were not easy for us, they are necessary to secure the future viability of the Jakob Müller Group. Our resources must be specifically directed where we see the greatest growth potential," says owner Stephan Bühler. Andreas Conzelmann, CEO of JMG, adds: "By focusing on our core segments, we are strengthening our innovative power and competitiveness – and ensuring that we can continue to offer our customers the best solutions in the future."

Unifying JMG’s brand identity and strengthening the global market position
COMEZ, the leading manufacturer of crochet and warp knitting machines in Italy, will be fully integrated into JMG and will operate under the name Jakob Müller Italy in the future. With investments in research and development – including the acquisition of MEI International, a renowned Italian manufacturer of label weaving machines – JMG will drive next-generation solutions and expand its product portfolio to include innovative air-jet technology. Further information regarding the acquisition of MEI will be provided in a separate announcement.

New Customer Center and Lab1887
Creating outstanding customer experiences is at the heart of the JMG 2030 strategy. The strategic investments in innovation and operational excellence enable JMG to offer state-of-the-art solutions, faster turnaround times, and an enhanced customer experience. A key element of this customer-centric approach is the opening of the new Customer Center and of the LAB1887 in Frick, Switzerland, in late summer 2025. This innovation factory serves as a development center where customers, together with JMG, can explore new technologies and develop novel applications for narrow fabrics.

Jakob Müller Group (JMG), a leader in narrow fabric weaving machinery, acquired 100% of the shares of MEI International, effective January 1, 2025. With a history spanning over 50 years, MEI is a renowned Italian manufacturer of wide label weaving machines. This strategic acquisition combines the strengths of two industry pioneers, creating a comprehensive portfolio of solutions for woven label production.

JMG, known for its high-quality rapier and air-jet weaving machines, expands its offerings with MEI’s specialized air-jet technology and broad product range. As part of this integration, JMG will discontinue its Müjet air-jet weaving machine, fully endorsing MEI's advanced air-jet technology, which will continue to be strengthened thanks to the mutual cooperation.

MEI will continue to operate as an independent company, retaining its location in Gallarate, Italy, with Paolo Mazzucchelli remaining as CEO. Both brands will maintain their separate market presence, leveraging their individual strengths to serve customers in a demanding market environment.

Key benefits of the acquisition:

• Comprehensive product portfolio: Customers gain access to a wider range of label weaving machines, catering to diverse production needs.
• Enhanced innovation: The combined expertise of JMG and MEI will accelerate the development of new products and services.
• Stronger financial foundation: The acquisition reinforces the financial strength of both companies, enabling increased investment in innovation and customer support.
• Continued customer focus: Existing sales and service structures of both companies will remain in place, ensuring continuity for customers.

“This acquisition is a significant step forward in our JMG 2030 strategy,” said Andreas Conzelmann, CEO of Jakob Müller Group. “I really appreciate the entire MEI team for their values, attitude, and spirit. Together, we can offer our customers an outstanding range of solutions and services, while continuing to provide the highest quality, productivity, and reliability they expect from both JMG and MEI.”

Paolo Mazzucchelli, CEO of MEI, added, “Joining forces with JMG is an exciting opportunity for MEI. This alliance will enable us to develop new products and services more quickly and professionally, ultimately benefiting our customers’ growth. We are committed to maintaining our separate sales forces to preserve the long-standing relationships we have built with our customers.”

Garment Tech Istanbul 2025, the comprehensive exhibition of the garment and ready-to-wear sector, will host global brands of sewing machines and the latest technologies. Manufacturers including Juki, Yuki, Brother, Dürkopp Adler, Pfaff Industrial, Pegasus, Siruba will exhibit hundreds of types of sewing machines such as industrial and household, automatic, zigzag, chain, overlock and interlock at Garment Tech Istanbul 2025.

During the 4-day exhibition, visitors will be able to experience the functionality of different sewing machines equipped with innovative designs, high efficiency and user-friendly features, get information from experts and discover industry trends.

Sewing Machine Sales to Gain Momentum
As of January-June 2024, Turkiye's sewing machine exports increased by 10.15% to USD 1.608 billion. Among these, the export volume of industrial sewing machines reached 2.28 million units. Among the largest markets, India, Vietnam, Pakistan and Brazil stand out, with exports to Pakistan in particular showing a huge increase of 160.46%. Turkiye's exports in Asia, Latin America and Africa showed strong growth, while its markets in Europe and North America declined slightly. Garment Tech Istanbul will significantly contribute to strengthening sales and international exports by increasing interest in Turkiye's sewing machinery sector.
The Garment Tech Istanbul; Garment, Embroidery Machines Spare Parts and Sub-Industry Exhibition, which will be held at the Istanbul Fair Center (IFM) between June 25-28, will increase interest in Turkiye's sewing machines sector and make a significant contribution to the strengthening of sales and international exports. Participating companies will have the opportunity to start new collaborations as well as increase brand awareness.

The sewing machine sector has evolved rapidly in recent years with many technological innovations. Digital and smart machines allow users to easily select sewing patterns, and adjust speed settings and automatic thread insertion, while automated sewing functions make things faster and more error-free. Automation systems in industrial machines make production processes more efficient. While machines run quieter thanks to electric motors, IoT technology enables remote monitoring of machines and more efficient management of maintenance processes.

The exhibition, where local and foreign manufacturers focusing on R&D and innovation will meet global buyers, will host industry professionals looking to implement new technologies and direct their investments. Company managers who want to produce flawless garments quickly and cost-effectively, increase their capacity and expand their machinery will be able to experience many sewing machine functions and direct their investments at Garment Tech Istanbul Exhibition.

Tonello S.r.l., a global leader of garment finishing technologies, announced the acquisition of Flainox S.r.l., a historic company based in Quaregna Cerreto (BI) with over fifty years of experience in manufacturing dyeing machinery.

This acquisition marks a significant evolution for the group, strengthening its ability to offer increasingly advanced solutions and respond effectively to the demands of a constantly evolving market. The merging of expertise allows for the expansion of the technological portfolio, offering an even more diverse and specialized range of products.

The union of Tonello and Flainox opens new opportunities for developing cutting-edge technological solutions, with a particular focus on sustainability and production excellence. Both companies, with strong roots in the Made in Italy tradition, share a common vision based on innovation and the continuous evolution of the industry. Flainox will continue to operate under its own brand, collaborating with the Tonello team.

The acquisition also enhances the commercial network, optimizing international coverage and providing customers with even more efficient and targeted services. Thanks to this synergy, the group reinforces its commitment to a more innovative and sustainable textile production.

The acquisition reaffirms Tonello’s determination to promote excellence in textile finishing technologies, with an increasing focus on investment in research and development for ever more efficient and sustainable processes.

Neste, Alterra and Technip Energies have signed a collaboration agreement to advance the circularity of plastics by providing the industry a standardized technology solution for chemical recycling, also referred to as “advanced recycling”.

The partners aim to globally offer a standardized modular solution, based on Alterra’s proprietary liquefaction technology, to parties interested in building capacity for chemical recycling.

This solution will come in the form of readily designed and engineered liquefaction plant modules, which will allow for lower pre-investment costs, accelerated implementation time, high predictability on project economics and reduced overall capital costs. Contributing to more effective execution of chemical recycling capacity projects, the solution helps the industry to reduce dependency on virgin fossil resources and accelerate the circularity of polymers and chemicals.

Alterra’s technology is a thermochemical liquefaction process, which converts hard-to-recycle plastics into a liquid hydrocarbon product. This liquid intermediate product can then be further refined into high-quality raw materials for new plastics and chemicals. As of today, Neste alone has processed more than 6,000 tons of plastic-derived feeds, including ISCC PLUS certified oil from Alterra’s industrial-scale site in Akron, Ohio.

Combining the expertise of three companies in one solution
Alterra and Neste started collaborating in chemical recycling in 2021, jointly improving aspects of Alterra’s technology and creating respective value chains. Alterra and Technip Energies started their collaboration in chemical recycling in 2022. The three companies now join efforts in a unique endeavor: Alterra and Neste will license the liquefaction technology and Technip Energies will design, engineer and deliver the standardized liquefaction plant solution to interested parties globally.

Polyester has been the cornerstone of the textile printing industry for decades. Its compatibility with the digital sublimation process—a cost-effective, simple technology—has driven exponential growth in polyester printing. However, the very characteristics that make polyester well suited for sublimation printing render this printing technique unsuitable for other materials, such as cotton and some blended fibres, leaving a significant gap in the market.

This gap was, until recently, partially filled by direct-to-textile printing. However, this method requires substantial initial investments in equipment and heavily relies on the time- and resource-consuming pre- and post-processing of fabrics to ensure colourfastness, colour accuracy, and compatibility with different substrates. Consequently, a need arose for a more sustainable and cost-effective solution that could cater to a wider range of textiles.

In response to this demand, Mimaki spent six years developing a breakthrough technology, TRAPIS, a simple two-step textile transfer printing solution, consisting of only an inkjet printer and a high-pressure calender. The design of choice is printed by the inkjet printer onto the company’s groundbreaking Texcol® pigment ink transfer paper. This is then transferred to the application via the calender.

Entirely removing the treatment stages means that printing on non-polyester materials has gone from an expensive and time-consuming task to one that is simple, cost-efficient and more sustainable.

Ideal for home textiles and soft signage which often require vibrant colours but varied materials, this technology gives printers the ability to print on a wide variety of materials, including natural fibres like cotton and silk without losing stretchability or colourfastness. All this can be done with just one type of ink, making the process flexible and adaptable to customer demands.  

The pre-treatment and washing of the fabric is often needed in digital dye printing, producing a significant amount of wastewater in the process. TRAPIS eliminates those stages altogether and is almost entirely waterless, saving around 14.5 litres per square metre of water, an almost 90% decrease in comparison to digital dye printing .

Additionally, this eliminates the need for wastewater treatment facilities, which can be both expensive and constrictive when it comes to where the solution is installed.

In a position paper published, the companies organised in the VDMA Textile Machinery Association comment on the ambitious EU regulations and their national implementation for the sustainable and circular transformation of the textile and clothing industry.

The production of textiles requires a large number of resources, such as water, energy and chemicals. “The members of VDMA Textile Machinery support customers with products worldwide to utilise great potential already at the textile production stage to thereby reduce CO2 emissions“, explained Verena Thies, Deputy Chairwoman of VDMA Textile Machinery.

The position statement emphasises the importance of efficient processes, circular economy and binding rules for all market participants. Besides, the position paper summarises the status of textile-to-textile recycling processes as well as the framework conditions for reprocessing of recyclates. The companies of VDMA Textile Machinery develop processes and technologies for recycling and provide the technical prerequisites for the efficient reuse and recycling of textile raw materials, whether natural or man-made fibres.
The Executive Board of VDMA Textile Machinery stresses additionally, that the new EU regulations for circular economy and their national implementation must be designed with realistic targets, measurable effects and as little bureaucracy as possible. Furthermore, market surveillance is needed to ensure a level playing field for all market participants.

On behalf of the industry, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association calls for creating better location conditions in Germany and EU as a favourable environment for innovation und competitiveness for textile machinery manufacturing to significantly advance the sustainability of the textile industry: The Textile Machinery Association strongly emphasises the need for a wide range of low-cost green energy, which is essential for the implementation and sustainable use of recycling solutions in the manufacturing industry. The association also sees the positive shaping of location conditions (the potential for skilled labour, a reduction in bureaucracy, shorter approval periods, investment security and predictability as well as a reduction in the tax burden) as a decisive factor for supporting sustainable business in the highly competitive textile and clothing industry.

From June 24 to 28, a delegation of Italian textile machinery manufacturers will be engaged in Turkmenistan for an institutional mission organized by ACIMIT, the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers, and Italian Trade Agency. The delegation will have some institutional and commercial meetings scheduled in Ashgabat.

For the Italian textile machinery industry, the Turkmen market has high growth potential. Cotton is the third largest export product of the Country, and local authorities aim to develop a robust textile industry capable of processing the locally grown raw material. Significant investments in new equipment will be necessary for the success of this development program. To achieve this goal, the demand for textile machinery and technologies is rapidly increasing.

This is testified by the average annual growth rate of Turkmen textile machinery imports between 2009 and 2023 (+7.3%). Furthermore in 2024-2027 period forecasts by ACIMIT predict a further average annual increase of 5.5%.

Meanwhile, in 2023, the demand for Italian textile machinery from Turkmen companies has grown. Italian exports increased from 600,000 euros in 2022 to approximately 13 million euros the following year.

The Italian companies participating in the institutional mission are: Brazzoli, Color Service, Itema, Marzoli, Mcs, Reggiani Macchine, Salvadè, Santoni.

For Italian textile machinery sector, 2024 has begun without anything seemingly special. The first quarter has seen the orders index, as reported by the Economics Department of ACIMIT – the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers – remain stationary compared to the same period the previous year. In absolute terms, the index came in at 61.2 points (basis: 2021=100).

This result is due to entirely different trends between the domestic and foreign markets. On the home front, orders were up 15% compared to the first three months of 2023, whereas orders abroad fell by 4%. The absolute value of the index on foreign markets came in at 59.4 points, in comparison to a 73.9 points in Italy. In both cases, new orders remained well below the numbers recorded for 2021, considered as a base year. During the first quarter, order backlog reached 4 months of assured production.

ACIMIT president Marco Salvadè thus commented the data: “The orders intake for the period from January to March 2024 confirms an overall sense of caution on foreign markets in planning new investments. The global geo-political framework remains complex, and these uncertainties are reflected in the buying decisions of many textile manufacturers. Therefore, our primary markets, which include China, Turkey and India, have failed to record any clear signs of growth in demand.”

On the contrary, domestic orders appear to be slightly on the rise. “Following a sharp decline in 2023, new orders from the beginning of the current year have recovered partially,” states ACIMIT’s president. “However, I don’t believe conditions are yet right for a clear inversion of this trend. Here in Italy as well, many investments remain on hold, awaiting the implementation of Transition 5.0 plan. Subsequently, we’ll be in a position see whether the domestic market will react positively to the adoption of these new measures.”