From the Sector

On 19-20 February 2025, social partners from the Italian textile and fashion industry met in Rome to deepen their understanding of the upcoming EU legislations and their impact on the Italian textile industry, as well as to further discuss the next step in their effort for a more broad and effective social dialogue. In the context of the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry, the meeting was also the occasion to draft the Rome Declaration: a joint statement to emphasise the social partners’ strong commitment to work together.

The meeting in Rome brought together representatives of the Italian textile industry, including the Italian employer association (Confindustria Moda), national trade unions (Femca-Cisl, Filctem-Cgil and Uiltec-Uil), regional clusters and companies to discuss the future of the industry. Together, they discussed the proposal for a sectoral industrial policy strategy to present to the Italian Government and the EU Commission for the support, consolidation and development of the textile-clothing supply chain.

The Rome Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together for a more competitive and fair Italian textile industry. The Declaration also calls upon the Italian Government and the European Union to support the upcoming transformation of the textile and clothing industries, technology and skills upgrades, regional development and just transition.

Says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary stated that “the Italian textile industry employs around 300,000 workers, or 24% of the European workforce in the textile and clothing sector, making it the largest in Europe. In a context of numerous challenges for the European textile industry, such as unfair globalization, green and digital transition, social dialogue is a real lever for improving working conditions and job security. We are committed alongside our Italian partners to a resilient and attractive textile industry in Italy”.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “Italy represents 36% of the total European textile and fashion industry; it is critically important therefore to maintain a strong Italian textile industry, which can be a benchmark for other countries. Combining quality, creativity and innovation is the recipe for success. This requires a dynamic company spirit, where employers and employees work hand in hand.”

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, welcomes the European Commission’s Clean Industrial Deal, which aims to pave the way for a sustainable, climate-neutral and competitive industry. Commission President Ursula von der Leyen discussed the initiative on Wednesday, February 26, 2025, together with 400 business leaders, including the CEO of the Lenzing Group, Rohit Aggarwal, in Antwerp (Belgium). The industry is calling on EU heads of state and government to take urgent measures in all EU member states without delay ahead of the upcoming European Council meeting in March.

“International trade tensions, volatile energy markets, and the need to decarbonise industries demand urgent collective action. We must continue to support Europe’s green leadership and ensure that those investing in sustainability are incentivised. We must act now, work together and translate ambition into tangible results”, emphasizes Rohit Aggarwal, CEO of Lenzing Group. “The Clean Industrial Deal is an important initiative for Europe’s industrial and sustainable future. It will strengthen Europe’s net-zero industry, expand green technology manufacturing, and enhance industrial competitiveness.”

One important aspect is access to affordable and clean energy, which is crucial for the global position and competitiveness of the industry.

“We appreciate the Commission President taking the time to join us today in Antwerp to present the Clean Industrial Deal. Nine out of ten calls of the Antwerp Declaration have been addressed. We need to transform Europe’s ambition ‘to be’, into a determination ‘to do’. Every day, Europe is falling behind its goals, and is losing quality jobs for our current and future generations of workers. In the turbulent times we are in we need bold action from the European Leadership,” said Ilham Kadri, President of the European Chemical Industry Council, Cefic.

Europe’s industries are facing historical challenges: declining demand, stalled investments, reduced capacity, and EU gas prices at 4 to 5 times higher than its competitors. Between 2023 and 2024, Europe’s manufacturing output – a sector employing over 31 million people – dropped another 2.6 percent. While for the chemicals industry – the industry of industries – Cefic’s recent study emphasised the severity, with over 11 million tons of capacity announced to be closed between 2023 and 2024, affecting 21 major sites.

To overcome these challenges, back in February 2024, 73 business leaders presented the Antwerp Declaration to Commission President, Ursula von der Leyen and former Belgian Prime Minister Alexander De Croo. The Antwerp Declaration lays out 10 concrete actions to restore the business case for investments, to implement Europe’s sustainability ambitions and safeguard quality jobs in Europe. It is now signed by over 1,300 signatories.

“Reading the Clean Industrial Deal, we need the Commission to focus, prioritise the three key actions that improve our situation already this year and put all power, boldness and bravery in the European Commission behind these. And give us a realistic planning for the remaining actions. When we say actions, we mean action, not strategies, policies or plans. Leave no stone unturned and break all taboos. We need the situation to change.” Marco Mensink, Cefic Director General.

“Cefic calls on all new EU initiatives to be evaluated against the following criteria: Do they keep Europe safe and independent, reduce energy prices, ease the administrative burden on companies, attract investments to Europe, create markets for sustainable products, and safeguard quality jobs in Europe? If the answer to any of these questions is no, EU policymakers should reconsider and revise the proposal accordingly.”

Five players in the textile service industry announce the establishment of Cibutex (Circular Business Textiles). This new cooperative is dedicated to the recycling and recovery of fibres from discarded textiles. Cibutex wants to contribute to a circular textile chain through cooperation in the whole sector.

The textile service has been implementing key Circular Economy solutions for some time: rental, care, repair and reuse of textiles for professional use. "As an industry, we are in a position to delve even deeper into the world of the circular economy. Every linen rental company has many of the same products, which go through the same process every time: the textiles are washed, sorted and collected again after the period of use. After many washes, the textiles are rejected. With this rejected textile, we see a unique opportunity to finally put the idea of a closed textile chain into practice. The used textiles that have reached the end of their useful life can be recycled on an industrial scale and the fibre raw materials can be recovered to make new textiles. We want to exploit this potential to the full by founding Cibutex, a cooperative for all textile service providers in Europe," says Cibutex director Jan Lamme, explaining the background of the unique project.

Cross-competitive goal
The founders of Cibutex are four well-known, competing textile service companies and one supply partner: Blycolin Textile Services (Zaltbommel, NL), Dibella (Aalten), Edelweiss Groep (The Hague), Lamme Textile Management (Amsterdam, NL) and Nedlin (Elsloo, NL). The companies have deliberately joined forces in order to implement sustainability in textiles and clothing by means of closed material cycles throughout the sector.

"Important resources are hidden in our B2B used textiles. We want to recover these in cooperation with relevant recycling companies and thus promote textile recycling as demanded by the EU Commission. We have come together to achieve sufficient critical mass to determine the final recycling of our discarded laundry, with the goal of moving from textiles to textiles," says co-founder Luuk de Win (Nedlin).

Sustainable eco-balance
"By recycling the raw materials of our used textiles, we contribute to reducing the social, environmental and climate impacts of the textile industry related to cultivation and production, and this leads to a long-term improvement of the ecological footprint of our industry," adds co-founder Marc van Boekholt (Blycolin).

Increasing value
To make the final transformation step of the circular economic model "textile service" a success, any European textile service company can become a member of Cibutex. The cooperative takes care of the collection, transport to the recycling partners and remuneration for the old textiles, which are now limited to bed linen, table linen and bath linen. In the future, however, the group wants to develop solutions for other textiles as well. For example, the recycling of workwear is also on the agenda. The founders of Cibutex agree that this too is a treasure trove of resources that must be addressed.