From the Sector

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, welcomes the European Commission’s Clean Industrial Deal, which aims to pave the way for a sustainable, climate-neutral and competitive industry. Commission President Ursula von der Leyen discussed the initiative on Wednesday, February 26, 2025, together with 400 business leaders, including the CEO of the Lenzing Group, Rohit Aggarwal, in Antwerp (Belgium). The industry is calling on EU heads of state and government to take urgent measures in all EU member states without delay ahead of the upcoming European Council meeting in March.

“International trade tensions, volatile energy markets, and the need to decarbonise industries demand urgent collective action. We must continue to support Europe’s green leadership and ensure that those investing in sustainability are incentivised. We must act now, work together and translate ambition into tangible results”, emphasizes Rohit Aggarwal, CEO of Lenzing Group. “The Clean Industrial Deal is an important initiative for Europe’s industrial and sustainable future. It will strengthen Europe’s net-zero industry, expand green technology manufacturing, and enhance industrial competitiveness.”

One important aspect is access to affordable and clean energy, which is crucial for the global position and competitiveness of the industry.

“We appreciate the Commission President taking the time to join us today in Antwerp to present the Clean Industrial Deal. Nine out of ten calls of the Antwerp Declaration have been addressed. We need to transform Europe’s ambition ‘to be’, into a determination ‘to do’. Every day, Europe is falling behind its goals, and is losing quality jobs for our current and future generations of workers. In the turbulent times we are in we need bold action from the European Leadership,” said Ilham Kadri, President of the European Chemical Industry Council, Cefic.

Europe’s industries are facing historical challenges: declining demand, stalled investments, reduced capacity, and EU gas prices at 4 to 5 times higher than its competitors. Between 2023 and 2024, Europe’s manufacturing output – a sector employing over 31 million people – dropped another 2.6 percent. While for the chemicals industry – the industry of industries – Cefic’s recent study emphasised the severity, with over 11 million tons of capacity announced to be closed between 2023 and 2024, affecting 21 major sites.

To overcome these challenges, back in February 2024, 73 business leaders presented the Antwerp Declaration to Commission President, Ursula von der Leyen and former Belgian Prime Minister Alexander De Croo. The Antwerp Declaration lays out 10 concrete actions to restore the business case for investments, to implement Europe’s sustainability ambitions and safeguard quality jobs in Europe. It is now signed by over 1,300 signatories.

“Reading the Clean Industrial Deal, we need the Commission to focus, prioritise the three key actions that improve our situation already this year and put all power, boldness and bravery in the European Commission behind these. And give us a realistic planning for the remaining actions. When we say actions, we mean action, not strategies, policies or plans. Leave no stone unturned and break all taboos. We need the situation to change.” Marco Mensink, Cefic Director General.

“Cefic calls on all new EU initiatives to be evaluated against the following criteria: Do they keep Europe safe and independent, reduce energy prices, ease the administrative burden on companies, attract investments to Europe, create markets for sustainable products, and safeguard quality jobs in Europe? If the answer to any of these questions is no, EU policymakers should reconsider and revise the proposal accordingly.”

One year after the launch of the Antwerp Declaration, 400 business leaders gathered to discuss the Clean Industrial Deal with European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen. Earlier in the day, President von der Leyen presented the initiative to the public, outlining its vision for strengthening Europe’s industrial base. The Antwerp meeting was a crucial moment for industry leaders to assess its impact and demand concrete measures for urgent implementation.

Representing 200,000 textile companies and 1.3 million workers across Europe, EURATEX welcomes the Clean Industrial Deal as a crucial framework to support industrial competitiveness. However, today’s discussions underscored the reality that without swift and targeted action, the European textile sector will remain at serious risk. High energy prices, regulatory complexity, and unfair competition from imports that bypass EU standards are making it increasingly difficult for manufacturers to stay afloat.

EURATEX President Mario Jorge Machado highlighted the industry's struggles with high energy costs and unfair competition. "European textile companies are facing a substantial crisis, combined with an increasingly complex regulatory landscape. We need a level playing field, particularly concerning online platforms that circumvent established quality and sustainability standards."

Addressing Commissioner Hoekstra, in charge of Climate, Machado declared: “We are ready to take responsibility, but if we want to save the planet, we cannot do it alone. Europe represents less than 10% of global CO₂ emissions in textiles—yet we are imposing strict sustainability laws on ourselves, while unsustainable imports take over the market. If we continue like this, we are simply outsourcing pollution to other regions while shutting down European factories.”

EURATEX has outlined four key priorities within the Clean Industrial Deal that must be addressed to safeguard the textile sector:

• Affordable Energy Action Plan: Securing stable and competitively priced energy is essential to retain textile production in Europe and sustain employment.
• Public Procurement Reform: Prioritising EU-made, sustainable textiles in public tenders will support responsible production and foster demand for innovative, eco-friendly products.
• Competitiveness Fund: SMEs, which form the backbone of the textile industry, require targeted financial support to invest in new technologies, upskill their workforce, and enhance competitiveness.
• Clean Trade and Investment Partnerships: To ensure fair global competition, trade agreements must uphold environmental and social standards across supply chains.

President Machado emphasises the need to stimulate demand for sustainable textile products. "We must shift the focus from solely pressuring manufacturers to adopt sustainable practices to actively incentivizing consumers and public procurers to choose sustainable options. If the cost of sustainability is not covered by the customer, it will be carried by the planet!'"

EURATEX therefore urges the European Commission and EU member states to move forward without delay in implementing a comprehensive support package for the textile industry. “Entrepreneurs are making the difficult decision to shut down production," warns Machado. "We need concrete action now to prevent further closures and ensure that the European textile industry not only survives but thrives in the years to come.”

Europe’s textile sorting and recycling industry is currently experiencing an unprecedented crisis, even more significant than during the COVID-19 pandemic. The sector is under immense pressure due to several global disruptions, including the war in Ukraine, logistical challenges in Africa, and the rise of ultra-fast fashion.

As a result, there is an oversupply of used textiles and a sharp decline in demand from traditional export markets. The trade in used textiles between the EU and non-EU decreased from 464,993 tonnes in 2022 to 430,185 tonnes in 2023. Looking at Germany alone, the exports of used textiles to Ghana (one of Europe’s key export markets) have decreased from 7911.2 tonnes in 2020 to 4532.9 tonnes in 2023. Additionally, demand for recycled materials remains low: recycled cotton had an estimated production volume of 319 000 tonnes in 2023 (compared to 24.4 million tonnes of virgin cotton) globally.

Consequently, prices for second-hand textiles have plummeted, while the costs of collection, sorting, and recycling have skyrocketed. Since spring 2024, the prices for sorted second-hand garments no longer cover processing costs, leading to major cash flow problems for sorting operators. Warehouses are becoming overwhelmed, increasing the risk of textile waste being incinerated.

In a joint statement EuRIC Textiles and Municipal Waste Europe expressed their concerns about the development of Europe’s textiles sorting and recycling sector. They have clearly specified what support they expect from Brussel:

“We call on the EU to encourage Member States to lower VAT on textile repair, reuse, and recycling activities, within the existing VAT Directive framework, and explore the possibility of introducing a tax on new, petroleum-based materials. Such measures, if adopted at national levels, would incentivise the use of recycled materials and reduce the environmental impact of virgin textile production.

This situation is likely to raise processing costs for municipalities, potentially resulting in higher waste disposal fees for residents, with the fear that the textiles will be thrown in the residual waste instead. Downstream players in the recycling chain, such as tearing and spinning mills, are also feeling the strain, leading to significant staff cuts.

To avert widespread bankruptcies, immediate financial and legislative support is essential. Short-term financial incentives for EU companies that contribute significantly to a sustainable circular textile chain are needed to safeguard the industry from collapsing. Investment in recycling technologies and infrastructure, alongside targeted support for municipalities dealing with textile waste stagnation, is crucial. We urge the EU to facilitate public-private partnerships to foster innovation in textile recycling and to scale up recycling technologies. This will help increase Europe’s capacity to process textile waste sustainably and efficiently. A swift revision of the Waste Framework Directive (WFD) and rapid implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes are also imperative.

In the mid-term, efforts should focus on making the textiles reuse and recycling sector competitive, in line with Commission President Ursula Von der Leyen’s ambition for a competitive and strong circular economy (through a future Clean Industrial Deal and Circular Economy Act). To reach this ambition, the EU needs to increase demand for recycled textiles, expand recycling capacity, and promote the use of sustainable materials through upcoming ecodesign requirements. We call for the mandatory inclusion of a percentage of recycled textile content (most preferably from post-consumer textiles) in all new textile products placed on the EU market, with a clear trajectory for increasing this percentage over the coming years. Without urgent action, Europe risks undermining its climate goals and jeopardising the future of its textile sorting and recycling industry.”