From the Sector

SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Indian sales representative Universal MEP Projects & Engineering Services, Ltd., will participate in the upcoming Garfab-TX Surat exhibition, an international trade show on embroidery apparel technology, fiber, yarn fabrics and accessories, to be held in Surat, India from 13th to 15th September 2024.

Surat is known as the textile hub of India, especially in terms of man-made fibers, and while it has been mainly an industrial center for wovens, there has been recent interest by manufacturers in the region to expand into new areas, including knitting.

As inventor and pioneer of WHOLEGARMENT®, the company is exhibiting its MACH2®XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine. Featuring 4 needle beds and SHIMA SEIKI’s original SlideNeedle™, MACH2®XS is capable of producing high-quality fine gauge WHOLEGARMENT® products in all needles. Representing the cutting edge in conventional shaped knitting is the N.SVR®123SP machine featuring a loop presser bed that permits inlay technique for producing hybrid fabrics with both knit and weave characteristics. N.SVR®123SP furthermore features i-Plating® inverse-plating capability for increased patterning capability, including the production of jacquard-like patterns in light-weight plain jersey stitch. Both machines feature such SHIMA SEIKI innovations as DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System (with “intelligence” on MACH2®XS), spring-type moveable sinker system, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb.

SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system will be available for demonstrations on the creative side of fashion, from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual sampling is a digitized version of sample making, accurate enough to be  used effectively as prototypes. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. Digital prototyping using virtual samples on SDS®-ONE APEX4 help to digitally transform the fashion supply chain for realizing sustainable manufacturing. Simulations are available not only for flat knitting, but for weaving, pile weaving, circular knitting and embroidery as well.

Trützschler and the Indian company Gimatex have a long relationship that began in 2006. Gimatex has used Trützschler’s IDF in direct spinning and are now using it to turn textile waste into ring yarn.

Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd. operates fully integrated facilities with ginning, spinning, recycling, weaving and processing units in Hinganghat, within India’s cotton-growing region of Vidarbha. It also runs a fabric processing unit in Dholka, near Ahmedabad. Together, Trützschler and Gimatex are working in close collaboration with the shared aim of extending that long history far into the future.

Trützschler’s Integrated Draw Frame (IDF) technology is at the heart of this collaboration. Gimatex is using these solutions to produce high-quality yarn. In particular, IDF enables Gimatex to produce yarns from a wide variety of raw materials – from 100 percent cotton through to polyester, recycled fibers and blends of various different inputs.

Gimatex mainly uses Trützschler IDF to manufacture rotor yarns in a direct spinning process. Direct spinning means shortening the spinning process by eliminating draw frame passages. Fiber slivers are fed directly from the card into the integrated drafting passage. This direct spinning concept uses less electricity and less space than conventional draw frame passages, which helps Gimatex to cut costs while increasing output volumes – with no compromise in quality. Most often, IDF technology is used for rotor and vortex spinning. However, the team at Gimatex is now also one of the first spinning mills in India to develop a special IDF process for producing traditional and recycled ring yarn. This allows the company to leverage the same setup it uses for open-end yarn. The ring yarn produced in this unusual way is mostly coarser varieties and recycling blends for cotton / spandex (lycra) products, with Ne 10s and Ne 16s. The yarn goes through a blow room into a TC 15 card with IDF, before entering a Trützschler TD 10 draw frame, a speed frame and a ring frame.

Computerized textile solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Hong Kong and Chinese market subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI (HONG KONG) LTD., will exhibit at the 30th edition of the Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics show in Shanghai, China this month. It will exhibit as part of the newly established Digital Solutions Zone which allows visitors to capture various opportunities available as part of the digital revolution that is currently making waves in the apparel industry.

SHIMA SEIKI will be showing its APEXFiz® subscription-based design software which supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that eventually go to waste. The remarkable realism of textile simulation is achieved by using scanned data of actual yarn to virtually weave or knit, creating an image that resembles real fabric. These fabrics can be utilized in various 3D simulation software including APEXFiz® to create realistic product images. Should the design be approved for production, machine data can be generated to allow smooth communication for digitally bridging the gap between the studio and factory. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

The product planning capability of APEXFiz® is enhanced by several web services featured as part of the SHIMA SEIKI Online Services (SHIMA online) web platform. These include SHIMA Datamall™ digital content web service that allows users to search, browse and purchase a variety of useful data for streamlining the planning and production of fashion items, as well as the yarnbank® digital yarn sourcing web service that offers digitized yarn data by yarn companies from around the world for download and use in virtual sampling.

Knitwear samples produced on the latest lineup of computerized flatbed knitting machines and exclusive to SHIMA SEIKI computerized knitting technology will also be on display, including WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear that can be produced in their entirety without linking or sewing, as well as hybrid knit-weave samples proposed as an alternative to wovens.

Flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Korean subsidiary SHIMA SEIKI KOREA INC., will participate in the 25th edition of Preview in Seoul exhibition with a lineup of knitting machines and design systems.

SHIMA SEIKI will be exhibiting its SWG®061N2 compact WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine which can produce a wide range of WHOLEGARMENT® items in their entirety without the need for linking or sewing. The SWG®-N2 series “Mini” range is suited to the production of small knit items and accessories such as gloves, socks, hats and scarves as well as dogwear, cozies, shoe uppers, bags, card cases, glasses cases, smartphone covers and other personal items. The N.SVR®093SP is a conventional shaped knitting machine featuring a loop presser bed that yields novel fabrics with special inlay patterns that are produced by inserting yarn into knit fabric in a weave fashion, offering new and exciting possibilities in hybrid knitweave textiles. Both machines will be shown knitting such items as a knit bag and stationery case to demonstrate the capability of current knitting technology for producing non-apparel items. Other knit samples on display include the latest items produced on SHIMA SEIKI's newest flagship SWG-R® WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine.

On the design side, the SDS®-ONE APEX4 design system and APEXFiz® subscription-based design software will be on display. Both support the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes, replacing physical sampling and consequently reducing time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. Virtual samples can furthermore be used in e-commerce to gauge consumer demand before production begins. Feeding that information back to production and combined with on-demand WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology, production can be adjusted to optimize inventory and minimize leftover waste. Virtual sampling on SDS®-ONE APEX series thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

Trützschler’s next-generation carding machine entered the market in January 2024. The machines have achieved great results during tests with customers in Türkiye and in other countries. It achieved up to 40 % higher productivity while reducing energy consumption by up to -18 %.

Higher productivity, less energy consumption
Mayfil Tekstil is a leading company in the Turkish textile industry for the production of textured yarn. It is headquartered in Nilüfer/Bursa. Founded in 2005, it has grown rapidly by prioritizing customer satisfaction. In 2022, Mayfil invested in a modern vortex airjet spinning facility that can produce up to 35 tons per day. And the company was keen to take a close look at the TC 30i for man-made fibers to explore its potential to drive progress toward Mayfil’s ambitious growth plans. In February 2024, Mayfil Tekstil conducted tests with the TC 30i. The next-generation carding machine produced 140 kg/h viscose, which is more than 40 % higher than the 95 kg/h Mayfil produces with the current benchmark. The new carding machine also decreased electricity consumption by 18 %. Based on these results, Mayfil is purchasing further TC 30i cards.

Results confirmed
Göl Iplik Şeremet Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret A.S., located in Inegöl Bursa, operates three factories that deliver a variety of high-quality products, with a specialization in blended yarns. Investment in modern equipment and pioneering new products that expand its portfolio are at the heart of Göl Iplik’s success across almost four decades. Göl Iplik also tested the TC 30i for man-made fibers in early 2024. This Trützschler customer took a close look at the TC 30i during rigorous viscose trials. The TC 30i achieved a 40 % higher productivity rate with the same level of quality, while consuming 15 % less power. Göl Iplik now intends to include the TC 30i in its future investment strategy.

Benefits of the TC 30i

1. Best quality from any raw material: High levels of productivity and yarn quality thanks to 35 % more active flats, the longest carding length in market and the T-GO automatic carding gap optimizer.
2. Operator-independent performance: Consistent results without relying on manual operators thanks to automatic, real-time optimization of the carding gap with T-GO.
3. Value-adding waste handling: Innovative waste suction system collects and separates different types of waste. More than 50 % of card waste can be reused or sold to third parties for an attractive price.

KARL MAYER launches its RE 4-1, a new Raschel machine for the efficient production of highly elastic textiles. With this newcomer, KARL MAYER is expanding its Elastomeric series and supplementing the established RE 4-1 as part of its two-product line strategy. With the price-performance ratio, the machine fulfils the requirements of the volume business in particular.

A 170″ version of the machine has already been on sale in China for several months. The pre-release got off to a successful start. Encouraged by the feedback from the market, KARL MAYER has developed an RE 4-1 with a working width of 190″ and will be offering both models to its global customers from middle of July 2024.

The RE 4-1 can be ordered with E 28 and E 32 gauges. The 170" version is also available with E 36. The standard equipment includes KAMCOS® 2, batching device 18 E, Carbon fibre technology and N-pattern drive for controlling the guide bars: stitch-forming GB 1 to GB 3 and inlayGB 4. There are also optional features, including sensors for measuring the yarn tension, laser stop, batching device 34 A, LED lighting and an installation kit.

With its technical configuration, the RE4-1 is optimised for the production of elastic and non-elastic standard fabrics, especially for the underwear sector. One of the top products of the Raschel machine with its high productivity and short amortisation time is elastic Power net. This open-meshed, airy fabric has become an indispensable part of the lingerie and clothing sector. It is often used in the wings of bras as well as for inserts in sports leggings, shirts, jackets and swimwear, where it provides delicate control and comfort. Power net can also be found in semi-technical applications, for example as outer and inner pockets for rucksacks and clothing.
In addition to Power net, Raschel Locknit, Sleek net and Satin net are also part of the production repertoire of RE 4-1. The fabrics with a decreasing density from Raschel Locknit to Satin net also play a role in underwear and clothing production. For their production, filament yarn is threaded in the front two guide bars and elastane in the back ones.

Mayer & Cie. presented an overview of its current portfolio in the circular knitting sector at the ITM in Istanbul. Two machine types – the SF4 3.2 III and the Relanit 3.2 HS II – and various smart solutions that make circular knitting more efficient were on display. knithawk, a tool for the optical detection of knitting defects, met with interest among the visitors. The same was true for knitlink, Mayer & Cie's hub for digital solutions. Spare parts packages and conversion kits are also in demand for the long-term value retention of Mayer & Cie. machines.

Relanit 3.2 HS II
The Relanit 3.2 HS mechanical single jersey machine offers high productivity, especially in the context of elastic plating. It processes a wide range of yarns and qualities reliably. It is suitable for processing recycled yarns. Their energy consumption is up to a third lower than that of a circular knitting machine with conventional technology.

In Istanbul, Mayer & Cie. presented an updated version of its flagship, the Relanit 3.2 HS II. The new open-width take down is the single component that attracted the most interest. It ensures a uniform pull-off tension of the knitted fabric over its entire circumference. The knitted hose is only opened below the take-down rollers. Furthermore, the take-dwon is equipped with two drives: one for tensioning, one for rewinding. Both can be controlled separately.

Another innovation of the Relanit 3.2 HS is aimed at reducing downtimes: The needle with predetermined breaking point, which was developed together with Groz-Beckert, prevents it from breaking uncontrollably and, in the worst case, breaking needle butt. The new spring sinker is also a joint development with Groz-Beckert. This makes the Relanit 3.2 HS II run more smoothly, produce less noise as well as with less wear and tear.

SF4-3.2 III for lightweight three-tread fleece knitted fabrics
With its SF4-3.2 III, Mayer & Cie. is addressing a trend in the clothing industry that is reflected beyond Turkey: lightweight, elastic three-thread knitted fabrics in both pure cotton and blends.

New Control 5.0 machine control system
Both ITM machine exhibits were on display with the new Control 5.0 machine control system. Control 5.0 is a prerequisite for using knitlink, the hub for Mayer & Cie's digital applications. In this function, the machine control system attracted interest from various large customers.

In the standard SmartControl version, as shown in Istanbul, a so-called Smart Knob is attached to each machine foot. From there, all the functions that the machine operator needs for his work are available. More in-depth settings, such as those made by the knitting manager, are only possible from a mobile device. Any number of Mayer & Cie. machines can be operated from this at the same time.

knithawk
knithawk, a tool for optical defect detection, inspects the knitted fabric as it is produced. It sits in the single jersey machine directly at the knitting point. If knithawk detects a serious or recurring error, the machine is stopped. The tool also creates an error log.

Machine-specific upgrade and conversion kits
With its upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. brings technological innovations to existing machines. These range from machine-specific upgrades, such as the Performance Kit for existing Relanit 3.2 models to the Senso Blue RS lubrication system.

In addition to the upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. offers conversion kits for popular machine types. Two are currently available: for the MV4 3.2 II/MBF 3.2 and the S4-3.2 II/ SF4-3.2 III.

KARL MAYER GROUP has developed a sophisticated system for considerable energy savings when operating the cylinder dryers in its PROSIZE® sizing machines and BLUEDYE dyeing plant.

Saving costs with inline energy recycling
The innovation is called CASCADE and focuses on steam as a heating medium in cylinder dryers. And for good reason: according to the IPCC report by ITMF Zurich, one tonne of steam cost between USD 20 and just under USD 27 internationally in 2021. The new solution relies on reuse to reduce the amount of process energy required.
"CASCADE recirculates parts of the process steam in cylinder dryers, enabling genuine, efficient energy recycling within the machine," explains Karl-Heinz Vaassen, Head of Textile Drying at KARL MAYER.
The customer benefits from significantly lower energy costs and CO2 emissions. With a view to the Asian market, a dryer with 14 cylinders and a running time of 7,000 working hours can achieve cost savings of up to USD 17,000 per year.

Precise, real savings values are available when looking at the machine dashboard. A sensor provides real-time data on the amount of steam circulating in the circuit, from which the corresponding reduction in CO2 equivalents can be calculated.

Utilizing the pressure drop
CASCADE reuses part of the invested process energy and uses the flash-steam in conjunction with the pressure ratios, which - nomen est omen - decrease in cascades in the different zones of the cylinder dryer.
The highest working pressure prevails in the first cylinder section. The heat transfer medium steam emits large amounts of energy for yarn drying and condenses without temperature loss.

The resulting hot condensate is not immediately discharged from the machine, but is instead fed into a flash tank, where vapor exhaust is formed as a result of the pressure reduction. In conventional systems, the carrier medium for gases is only created in the return line towards the boiler house and is eliminated as undesirable. Instead of being utilised in the process, it escapes into the environment. With the CASCADE system, this "freshly recycled steam" is used for the heat supply in the second cylinder section, but not without prior treatment.

In the system patented by KARL MAYER, the recycled steam is intelligently mixed with live steam and thus raised to the level of the required process conditions for use in the cylinder section at the end of the dryer. Here, the fabric moisture is reduced to the desired residual value at medium pressure and temperature conditions.

Market launch is underway
CASCADE was filed for patent by the KARL MAYER GROUP. It was published in September 2023.
The innovative solution at no extra charge was presented at ITM 2024 in Istanbul and was a visitor highlight at the KARL MAYER GROUP stand.

From January 2024, CASCADE will be part of the PROSIZE® as standard. The first sizing machine with the upgrade for greater energy efficiency will be delivered in the second quarter of this year. It will go to a manufacturer in Europe. In the next step, CASCADE will be integrated into other dryer types and will also be available for the BLUEDYE.

Every day, technical service experts from Trützschler visit customers around the globe. Now the company adds another location to their list: the virtual space, called Digital Start-Up. Digital Start-Up is a special service that helps customers get maximum value from Trützschler’s digital solutions. From personalized configurations through to analyzing data and optimizing production processes in real time, Digital Start-Up supports yarn production processes.

Digital Start-Up offers:

• Guided onboarding for all-in-one platform My Trützschler including My Mill, Training, Shop and more.
• On-site training for all machines and services.
• Digital audits that combine online and on-site guidance, training and troubleshooting

The My Trützschler platform provides access to the digital Trützschler world, with insights from digital services including My Mill Training, Shop and My Wires. The My Identity tool ensures safe access on any device, anywhere – and it saves time with single sign-on authentication.

Spinnova’s R&D yarn spinning line has been inaugurated in Tearfil’s mill in Portugal.

Spinnova and Tearfil entered into a yarn development cooperation agreement in June 2023, where the two companies share the capacity of the spinning line. The spinning line machinery was delivered by Rieter, a leading supplier of yarn production systems. The R&D spinning line is used for product development and testing of SPINNOVA® fibre. The aim is to develop the fibre to be used in different applications in commercial-scale yarn production and to streamline development work with industrial partners.

The spinning line is located in Tearfil’s facilities in the textile hub of Guimarães, Portugal, and Tearfil is responsible for operating the line.