From the Sector

Trützschler and the Indian company Gimatex have a long relationship that began in 2006. Gimatex has used Trützschler’s IDF in direct spinning and are now using it to turn textile waste into ring yarn.

Gimatex Industries Pvt. Ltd. operates fully integrated facilities with ginning, spinning, recycling, weaving and processing units in Hinganghat, within India’s cotton-growing region of Vidarbha. It also runs a fabric processing unit in Dholka, near Ahmedabad. Together, Trützschler and Gimatex are working in close collaboration with the shared aim of extending that long history far into the future.

Trützschler’s Integrated Draw Frame (IDF) technology is at the heart of this collaboration. Gimatex is using these solutions to produce high-quality yarn. In particular, IDF enables Gimatex to produce yarns from a wide variety of raw materials – from 100 percent cotton through to polyester, recycled fibers and blends of various different inputs.

Gimatex mainly uses Trützschler IDF to manufacture rotor yarns in a direct spinning process. Direct spinning means shortening the spinning process by eliminating draw frame passages. Fiber slivers are fed directly from the card into the integrated drafting passage. This direct spinning concept uses less electricity and less space than conventional draw frame passages, which helps Gimatex to cut costs while increasing output volumes – with no compromise in quality. Most often, IDF technology is used for rotor and vortex spinning. However, the team at Gimatex is now also one of the first spinning mills in India to develop a special IDF process for producing traditional and recycled ring yarn. This allows the company to leverage the same setup it uses for open-end yarn. The ring yarn produced in this unusual way is mostly coarser varieties and recycling blends for cotton / spandex (lycra) products, with Ne 10s and Ne 16s. The yarn goes through a blow room into a TC 15 card with IDF, before entering a Trützschler TD 10 draw frame, a speed frame and a ring frame.

As a traditional textile country, India has also established a strong position in the field of manmade fiber production in recent decades. The West Asian country has now become the second largest polyester yarn manufacturer in the world. The Indian textile industry covers the entire value chain from the melt to the finished textile end product.

The technical textiles sector in particular is regarded as a future market. With an average growth rate of 12% since 2013, this dynamic sector accounts for around 13% of the entire Indian textile and clothing market, according to the government organization Invest India. The market volume has almost doubled in the past ten years. In India, the production of industrial yarn has so far relied heavily on polyamide. Oerlikon Barmag has a strong market position here. "In recent years, we have commissioned plants for numerous customers," says Dr. Wolfgang Ernst, Head of Sales of the Oerlikon Business Unit Manmade Fibers Solutions.

Increasing demand for industrial polyester yarns
The construction boom and the increasing use of geotextiles and industrial textiles in various infrastructure projects as well as in agriculture and aquaculture show enormous growth potential. This is supported by the government's 2021 industrial development program, which includes technical textiles as one of ten priority sectors. The program is based on reducing dependence on imports. Until now, a large proportion of the technical textiles and yarns required in the country have been imported.

The trend towards high-quality technical textiles for the domestic market has also been noted by the Remscheid-based machine and plant manufacturer. "We are receiving more and more inquiries from Indian customers for spinning systems for industrial yarns," says Dr. Wolfgang Ernst. "What is new is the great interest shown by companies from downstream processes that are looking for backward integration. We attribute this to the stricter regulations of the Bureau of Indian Standards. Until now, industrial yarns were mainly imported from China. In order to guarantee the quality of the processed yarns, this has been strictly regulated by the government since last year. It therefore makes sense for Indian textile producers to enter the yarn manufacturing sector." This development was also noticeable at this year's Techtextil in Frankfurt, where the experts from Oerlikon Barmag were able to hold a disproportionately high number of technical discussions with Indian customers and interested parties.

The flexible spinning concepts of Oerlikon Barmag enable a variety of possible yarn products for numerous applications. The portfolio includes processes for the production of polyamide and polyester yarns with the required physical properties for a wide range of end applications, whether HMLS yarns for car tires, yarns for geotextiles, safety belts or even airbags.

Trützschler’s next-generation carding machine entered the market in January 2024. The machines have achieved great results during tests with customers in Türkiye and in other countries. It achieved up to 40 % higher productivity while reducing energy consumption by up to -18 %.

Higher productivity, less energy consumption
Mayfil Tekstil is a leading company in the Turkish textile industry for the production of textured yarn. It is headquartered in Nilüfer/Bursa. Founded in 2005, it has grown rapidly by prioritizing customer satisfaction. In 2022, Mayfil invested in a modern vortex airjet spinning facility that can produce up to 35 tons per day. And the company was keen to take a close look at the TC 30i for man-made fibers to explore its potential to drive progress toward Mayfil’s ambitious growth plans. In February 2024, Mayfil Tekstil conducted tests with the TC 30i. The next-generation carding machine produced 140 kg/h viscose, which is more than 40 % higher than the 95 kg/h Mayfil produces with the current benchmark. The new carding machine also decreased electricity consumption by 18 %. Based on these results, Mayfil is purchasing further TC 30i cards.

Results confirmed
Göl Iplik Şeremet Tekstil Sanayi ve Ticaret A.S., located in Inegöl Bursa, operates three factories that deliver a variety of high-quality products, with a specialization in blended yarns. Investment in modern equipment and pioneering new products that expand its portfolio are at the heart of Göl Iplik’s success across almost four decades. Göl Iplik also tested the TC 30i for man-made fibers in early 2024. This Trützschler customer took a close look at the TC 30i during rigorous viscose trials. The TC 30i achieved a 40 % higher productivity rate with the same level of quality, while consuming 15 % less power. Göl Iplik now intends to include the TC 30i in its future investment strategy.

Benefits of the TC 30i

1. Best quality from any raw material: High levels of productivity and yarn quality thanks to 35 % more active flats, the longest carding length in market and the T-GO automatic carding gap optimizer.
2. Operator-independent performance: Consistent results without relying on manual operators thanks to automatic, real-time optimization of the carding gap with T-GO.
3. Value-adding waste handling: Innovative waste suction system collects and separates different types of waste. More than 50 % of card waste can be reused or sold to third parties for an attractive price.

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany, and Japan. “Our sector is renowned worldwide for its reliability, know-how, and the uniquely Italian ability to combine tradition and innovation,” noted the ACIMIT president. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.

Thus, technologies play an important role in providing solutions to companies engaged in the new circularity supply chain: from sorting and selection of garments to preparation phases and recycling processes. During the event several speakers agreed that the experience and capabilities of the Italian textile and textile machinery sector should be fully leveraged at this crucial stage for the entire supply chain. As President Salvadè noted, “Textile machinery companies intend to increase R&D activities in this area, collaborating with their textile customers in the belief that the circular transformation of business models also represents an opportunity for technology suppliers to increase their competitiveness.”

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an order from Sioen Technical Felts to supply a complete needlepunch line for its production plant in Liège, Belgium. The new line will enable Sioen to produce heavy fabrics in a single step.

Sioen’s Liège plant specializes in the production of technical fabrics used mainly in industrial applications such as pipe lining (CIPP), acoustics, and filtration. The ANDRITZ equipment will allow the customer to produce fabrics of more than 3,500 gsm in a single step, using different types of fibers (recycled PET, OxPan, bicomponent,…) and finenesses. Normally two or three layers have to be needled off-line in a second step to achieve such a fabric weight.

The single-step process results in a higher quality end product by minimizing the risk of delamination, i.e. the separation of layers during use. It also increases productivity by reducing the need for fabric handling.

The ANDRITZ DF-4 needleloom, which can operate in double and single stroke modus, gives Sioen high flexibility to process fabrics with different mechanical charasteristics. Operators can easily switch modes via the remote-control touch screen. The line will be equipped with ANDRITZ’s latest fabric weight profiling technology, ProWin™, to ensure maximum weight evenness.

Start-up of the new needlepunch line is scheduled for Q1 2025.

Meisheng Group has started up a new ANDRITZ needlepunch line at its facility in Shaoxing City, Zhejiang Province, China. It is the third line supplied by ANDRITZ to the manufacturer of high-end nonwoven synthetic leather. This expansion will enable Meisheng to address the growing demand for synthetic suede in the automotive industry, particularly for New Energy Vehicles (NEVs).

The advanced line is equipped with a ProWid™ system that allows Meisheng to ensure an optimum web weight regularity across the full product width. As a result, the web distribution is improved, which reduces material consumption (fibers) and improves web weight evenness (CV%) – factors that are particularly important in synthetic leather manufacturing for automotive applications.

The next AACHEN-DRESDEN-DENKENDORF INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE CONFERENCE will take place on November 21/22 2024 in Stuttgart on site.  

You are invited to submit abstracts for oral or poster presentations related to the following topics:

• Textile Mechanical Engineering
• Biobased Fibers
• High Performance Fibers
• Fiber Composites and Lightweight Construction
• Circular Economy and Recycling
• Medicine and Health
• Functionalization and Finishing
• Transfer Session “From Idea to Practice”

 
Deadline abstract submission for oral presentations: April 30, 2024
Deadline abstract submission for poster presentations: September 30, 2024

Partner countries for 2024 are Belgium, Netherlands and Luxembourg.

ANDRITZ recently started up a new textile recycling line at Sfilacciatura Negro’s plant in Biella, Italy. Designed for processing post-consumer textile waste with automatic removal of hard parts, the tearing line supports the company’s expansion into new recycling segments.

In view of the growing demand for sustainable fibers in the re-spinning and nonwoven industries, Sfilacciatura Negro Biella decided to expand its recycling capabilities. The company has extensive experience in recycling industrial textile waste and already operates two tearing lines. Based on its long-term collaboration with ANDRITZ, it is now stepping into the recycling of post-consumer clothing waste.

The new generation recycling line ANDRITZ supplied to Sfilacciatura Negro is the result of ten years of close cooperation, trials in its technical center, and visits to customer lines in Spain and Portugal. ANDRITZ has tailored a complete line from feeding of sorted waste bales to baling of the recycled fibers. It is designed for highly efficient, energy-saving operation and features automated separation of hard points while maintaining a good material yield. An automated filtration unit is provided for airflow and dust management. Only one operator is needed to manage the entire line up to the recycled fiber baler. The baler can produce film-wrapped and tied bales with a weight of up to 350 kg.

ITMA ASIA + CITME, Asia’s leading trade fair for textile machinery, took place in Shanghai with a considerable presence of VDMA member companies. The round about 40 exhibiting VDMA members covered nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and manmade fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & hosiery, finishing & dyeing and textile processing. They were part of a strong German presence with a total of around 60 German exhibitors – including non-machine manufacturers.

During a press conference on the first day of the show, Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and managing director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik expressed: “After years of cancelled or postponed trade fairs and travel restrictions, this year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME is the first edition of the show that can be attended not just by Chinese but by visitors from various countries and regions. The event is a good opportunity to meet customers and partners again in person and not just on a screen. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a good chance to deepen the already good relations with China and other Asian countries further and to set-up new partnerships.”

Dr. Horn continued to present latest facts and figures about the German textile machinery industry. Between January and August 2023, the overall exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.7 billion euros, which was a slight decrease compared to the same period in 2022. The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and August: China: 440 million € (2022: 453 million €), Turkey: 205 million € (2022: 265 million €), USA: 177 million € (2022: 144 million €), India: 170 million € (2022: 228 million €).

Numerous VDMA member companies have production sites in the major Asian markets China and India and serve their customers in these countries from there. A latest VDMA business climate survey among the textile machinery companies in China showed, that 75% of all participants assessed their current business situation as either good (6%) or satisfactory (69%). For the coming quarter, 50% of the companies see the market to decline. Asked about the business situation during the next six months, 44% of the companies expect the market to remain stable, 56% expect the situation to become worse. This is also reflected in the HR of the companies: 63% expect the number of employees to remain unchanged.

Trützschler announces their cooperation with Balkan Textile Machinery. INC.CO, a partner which completes Trützschler's product portfolio for recycling by cutting and pulling solutions.

Both Balkan and Trützschler are family-owned companies for whom sustainability in the textile chain is a major concern. Balkan is well established in Turkey, one of the most important markets for textile recycling. Their robust and reliable machines help to cut, mix and tear textile waste to individual fibers, and to press them into bales of secondary fibers. These bales can be fed to the preparation process with Trützschler machines.

“We are now able to provide a complete line-up of technologically leading machinery which has been specifically developed for rotor and ring yarns from recycled materials”, says Markus Wurster, Director Sales and Marketing at Trützschler Group. “Customers benefit from less complexity when planning and executing a mill project. The combined processes from Trützschler and Balkan are perfectly fine-tuned, reliable and reproducible. And of course, customers have access to Trützschler’s premium service.” Osman Balkan, Owner of Balkan Textile Machinery. INC.CO, adds: “I am very happy that we can join forces with such a strong international player like Trützschler. Together we can make a significant contribution to dealing with textile waste globally."