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Korean Sportwear Market with above-average Growth © Kunstzirkus/pixelio.de
13.06.2017

KOREAN SPORTSWEAR MARKET WITH ABOVE-AVERAGE GROWTH

  • Korean sportswear market with above-average growth
  • International companies expand / Brand awareness boosts consumption

Seoul (GTAI) - While consumption in Korea (Rep.) is generally weak, some segments show relatively high growth rates. Sales of sportswear have risen steadily over the past few years and are likely to rise in the future. Great sport events and the enthusiasm of the Koreans for prestige items are driving the segment, of which international companies benefit also. The market for outdoor clothing, on the other hand, has already reached its peak.

  • Korean sportswear market with above-average growth
  • International companies expand / Brand awareness boosts consumption

Seoul (GTAI) - While consumption in Korea (Rep.) is generally weak, some segments show relatively high growth rates. Sales of sportswear have risen steadily over the past few years and are likely to rise in the future. Great sport events and the enthusiasm of the Koreans for prestige items are driving the segment, of which international companies benefit also. The market for outdoor clothing, on the other hand, has already reached its peak.

The sportswear market in Korea (Rep.) is developing dynamically. According to estimates by the market research institute Samsung Design Net, the segment premium sportswear reached a growth of Won 4.8% to 6.6 billion in 2016, (circa EUR 5.1 billion, 1 EURO = roughly 1.284 Won, - in the yearly average of 2016). As a result of this positive development, more and more international companies are pushing on the Korean market, thereby expanding the range of goods available for local customers. So far, a large proportion of orders has been sold via large international shopping portals. In the future, the local presence will gain in importance.

International companies are pushing on the market

The American manufacturer Under Armour started direct sales in 2017 with its first own store in Korea (Rep.). In January, after Dependance in Shanghai the company opened its worldwide second largest store in the nobel part Gangnam in Seoul. So far Under Armor had operated its sales mainly through smaller stores in partnership with a Korean retailer. For this reason four additional flagship stores as well as numerous shop-in-shops are to be implemented in during the year of 2017.

But other sector companies are also attracted by the Korean market, such as Lululemon Athletica, a Canadian company specializing in apparel for yoga. Lululemon has opened its first Asian branch in Seoul in 2016. Meanwhile a second store has been opened in Seoul, a third store is to follow later in the year 2017.    

German companies are well positioned

The German company Adidas also was able to generate very good results in the past on the Korean market. Despite a sluggish economy and weak consumption, the company turnover in Korea (Rep.) rose by around 15% in 2016. According to media reports, Adidas predicts a sales upturn of around 10% for 2017.

According to Eddie Nixon, CEO of Adidas Korea in the daily newspaper "Korea Times", the growth in 2016 was reached due to a high demand among young consumers, children and streetwear. The turnover of Adidas in 2016 reached around Won 1 billion in nearly 800 shops around the country. Most of them are managed on a franchise basis. For the Korean market therefore can be said, the population is more active and fitnessoriented than in other Asian countries.

Puma, on the other side, concentrates in Korea (Rep.) in addition to football articles mainly on its female clientele, which accounts for about 55% of its sales. According to Puma CEO Rasmus Holm in the "Korea Herald", this percentage is expected to rise even further as the market for sportswear is increasingly fashion-conscious. Also the influence of the entertainment sector on the segment is becoming increasingly apparent, which is why Puma is cooperating with K-Pop stars in the marketing sector.

According to Holm, the sportswear market in Korea (Rep.) is in a good growth phase. In the short run Puma will primarily focus on optimizing its existing shops. In future, an expansion of the business will be envisaged also, although no figures or timetables have been mentioned. However, the Korean market is not easy. The environment and competition are highly competitive. In addition to numerous international sector companies, local competitors are also well positioned.

"Korean Wave" as a location factor

Representatives of companies also refer to the appeal effect of Korea (Rep.) itself on other Asian countries in a consequence of the so-called "Hallyhu" - the "Korean Wave" of TV series, music and fashion. Numerous consumers in the region orientate themselves on developments in Korea (Rep.); the country is regarded as an international trendsetter in the cultural segment. Fashion and brands that are successful here often spread with a short time delay throughout Asia.

A very positive effect on the local sporting goods and clothing market, Korea (Rep.) will get through the two major sports events of global importance which will happen within ten months. In May and June 2017, the FIFA U20 World Cup will take place in six cities in the country, including a participation of the German team. Manufacturers can present their products to a global audience as well as at the Olympic
winter games, which will be held in Pyeongchang from February 9th to 25th 2018.

Boom at outdoor clothing fizzles

The KOFOTI (Korea Federation of Textile Industries) is more critical about the sector's prospects and forecasts a declining sales trend for 2017. However, this is partly due to the fact that the Korean market for outdoor clothing has shown a declining rate following a boom in the beginning of the decade. Until 2014 the sales of outdoor clothing reached double-digit growth rates partly of more than 30%.

The market was driven by a growing sense of leisure and a great passion of the Korean people for hiking. Between 2005 and 2012, the number of sector enterprises jumped from 30 brands to around 170. However the growth rates have declined gradually since 2012 and the market is estimated to have stagnated at a volume of Won 7.4 billion in 2015, some sector companies have already suffered high sales losses in a double-digit range.

For 2016, there are still no concrete figures for the overall market, but different indicators point to declining sales. So the import of footwear fell by 41.5% in 2016, imports of clothing made out of felt, fleece and PVC went down by 21.7%, anoraks and wind jackets for men declined by 5.4%. According to media reports a number of companies are already withdrawing from this segment due to market saturation. Others are orienting towards expanding areas such as fitness, running sports accessories as well as for yoga and golf wear.

 

More information:
Korea Outdoor Sportwear
Source:

Alexander Hirschle, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

30.05.2017

IRAN'S TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY WANTS TO INVEST

  • But industry continues to be in a crisis
  • Germany leading textile machinery supplier again

Teheran (GTAI) - Iran's large, traditional textile and clothing industry fights against foreign competition. Although the manufacturers are protected against imports by import tariffs, industry representatives and the Ministry of Industry are talking about massive illegal imports. In order to improve competitiveness, investments in new plants are necessary, but the companies often lack the necessary financial resources. Textile machines from Germany are in high demand.

  • But industry continues to be in a crisis
  • Germany leading textile machinery supplier again

Teheran (GTAI) - Iran's large, traditional textile and clothing industry fights against foreign competition. Although the manufacturers are protected against imports by import tariffs, industry representatives and the Ministry of Industry are talking about massive illegal imports. In order to improve competitiveness, investments in new plants are necessary, but the companies often lack the necessary financial resources. Textile machines from Germany are in high demand.

Although the Ministry of Industry reports growth for several sectors of the textile and clothing industry for 2015/16 (Iranian year 1394, 03. 21.15 to 03. 20.16), the increased production level remains far below capacity. The data on the average utilization varies greatly, but no estimate is more than 50%, some company representatives report even 30% only. The industry also suffers from quality problems, which are mainly due to the outdated machinery park.
According to official data, there are almost 10,000 factories with about 290,000 employees in the textile and clothing sector. The industry, which is characterized by private ownership, is by government announcements often referred to as a promising economic sector with potential. Nevertheless, according to criticism it is lacking in the necessary support.

Approximately 400 mostly medium and large textile and clothing manufacturers are organized in the Association of Iran Textile Industries (http://aiti.org.ir). The spectrum of the association members ranges from cotton spinning and weaving mills to producers of acrylic and polyester yarns, synthetic fibers, machine-made carpets, wall-to-wall carpet floors, woolen and other blankets and bedspreads, clothing and up to manufacturers of textile machines and spare parts.

The main problem of the Iranian textile and clothing industry is the competition from abroad, particularly from the PR of China and Turkey. The re-exports via the Dubai trade hub have to be added too. Partially high import tariffs are intended to protect the domestic market, but a large part of the imports arrives illegally into the country. A duty of 55% is currently levied on clothing and a reduced rate of 33% applies to deliveries from Turkey. For fabrics 32% are due.

Great interest in modern technology
The Iranian textile industry wants to strengthen its competitiveness both on the domestic and international markets through the modernization of its machinery. The great interest of the sector companies in new technology shows the strong response to conferences and seminars offered by European associations and companies.

In April 2015, the  GermanTextile Machinery Association VDMA organized a symposium in Tehran in anticipation of the strong easing of Iran sanctions. About 1,100 local company representatives were able to study the offers from the 36 German textile machinery and accessories manufacturers.
The event showed the interest of the Iranian companies to look for solutions to improve their mostly old, often decades old facilities.

A considerable part of the machinery park came from Europe as already used equipment. A problem were the continuing export controls also. According to industry representatives replacement procurements were made difficult because many parts are classified as dual-use goods. Organizations from Italy and Switzerland also have organized information events for Iran's textile industry.

Machinery import decreased again
The interest in modern technology however leads to limited investments only. Due to the weak financial strength of a large part of the industrial enterprises, intensified state support measures, in particular favorable loans, are requested. The banks lend credits to textile companies with great restraint only and demand high interest rates. According to Iranian customs despite the difficult situation textile and clothing machinery worth USD 324 million were imported in 2015/16. However - this was 11% less than in 2014/15 (USD 364 million).

Germany: export of textile, clothing and leather machinery to Iran 2013 to 2016 (in EUR 1,000):
HS-Pos. Description 2013 2014 2015 2016 -11 months
  Total 16,248 39,966 48,993 25,827
84.44 Machinery for jet spinning etc. of synthetic or artificial material 83 2,991 325 1,005
84.45 Machines for preparation or processing for spinning and doubling etc. 2,145 6,699 7,140 2,612
84.46 Weaving looms 8,009 20,896 30,873 11,941
84.47 Machines for knitting, sewing, gimping, tulle, lace, embroidery, net knitting and tufting etc. 642 712 618 1,444
84.48 Auxiliary machines and devices for machines of positions 84.44, 84.45, 84.46 or 84.47 4,400 7,347 7,760 6,412
84.49 Machines for the manufacturing of felts and nonwovens 6 0 77 0
84.51 Machinery and devices for washing, drying, ironing, pressing, etc. (excluding machines of pos. 84.50). 634 915 1,629 1,672
84.52 Sewing machines 321 380 543 673
84.53 Machines and devices for processing of hides etc. 8 26 28 69


Source: Eurostat

Germany is traditionally the leading textile machinery supplier in Iran, followed by Italy. However, the sanction phase brought a turnaround in favor of Asian suppliers. According to VDMA calculations, the most important suppliers of textile machinery exported to Iran in 2013 a value of EUR 85 million only (excluding dryers, and clothing and leather technology), of which 33% were attributed to the PRC, followed by Germany (16%), Turkey (12%), Korea (Rep., 7%) and Italy (5%). Deliveries of clothing and leather technology amounted to EUR 113 million in 2013, led by Korea (Rep.) with 53%, the PRC reached 36%, Germany came to 0.3% only.

The VDMA data for 2015 show for textile machinery Germany as the leading supplier again. At the textile machinery exported to Iran German suppliers accounted for a share of 30%, the PRC fell to 22%, Turkey reached 12%, Korea (rep.) 6% and Italy 4 %. In the clothing and leather technology the Chinese-Korean dominance remained in 2015 (PRC: 49% from EURO 131 million and Korea (rep.): 41%)..

PR of China: Exports of textile, clothing and leather machinery to Iran 2013 to 2016 (in USD 1,000):
HS-Pos. Description 2013 2014 2015 2016- 11 months
  Total 84,518 133,739 103,055 75,748
84.44 Machinery for jet spinning of synthetic or artificial fibers 16,457 5,319 1,990 1,925
84.45 Machines for preparation or processing of materials for spinning, doubling etc. 288 2.602 2.844 1,269
84.46 Weaving looms 2,650 6,039 4,103 1,836
84.47 Machines for knitting, gimping tulle, lace, embroidery, knotting and tufting etc. 6,672 10,795 8,642 7,878
84.48 Auxiliary machines and devices for pos.84.44, 84.45,
84.46 or 84.47 etc.
5,684 17,061 7,319 3,921
84.49 Machines for the manufacturing of felts and nonwovens 2,053 2,029 5,540 2,900
84.51 Machinery and devices for washing, drying, ironing, pressing, etc. (excluding machines of pos. 84.50). 11,368 15,894 16,559 13,728
84.52 Sewing machines 33.567 49.714 38.191 36.182
84.53 Machines and devices for the processing of hides 5.779 24.286 17.867 6.109

Source: China Customs

According to Eurostat exports of textile, clothing and leather industry machines of the EU28 Group to Iran increased between 2013 and 2015 from EUR 38 million to EUR 89, with Germany accounting for 42% respectively 55%. Italy delivered EUR 10.4 million in 2015 (2014: EUR 14.0 million, 2013: 6.3 million). The deliveries of the EU28 Group and Germany also were declining in 2016.

 

Uzbekistan's textile industry is launching a new expansion initiative © Hartmut Wolff/pixelio.de
23.05.2017

UZBEKISTAN'S TEXTILE INDUSTRY IS LAUNCHING NEW EXPANSION INITIATIVE

  • Projects planned for USD 2.3 billion by 2020
  • Doubling of exports of finished products strived

Tashkent (GTAI) - The textiles and clothing industry of Uzbekistan remains one of the most important investment and cooperation sectors for foreign companies. A new expansion program for the period 2017 to 2020 provides for the implementation of 140 projects. The expected inflow of capital to the industry in a value of up to USD 2.3 billion is planned to account for about half of the foreign investment.

The textile and clothing industry should be expanded more than ever into an important export part of the central Asian republic. The specific activities for the targeted doubling of exports by 2020 versus 2016 are listed in the presidential regulation "On the program of measures for the further development of the textile, clothing and tricot industry 2017 to 2020" of December 21st 2016.

  • Projects planned for USD 2.3 billion by 2020
  • Doubling of exports of finished products strived

Tashkent (GTAI) - The textiles and clothing industry of Uzbekistan remains one of the most important investment and cooperation sectors for foreign companies. A new expansion program for the period 2017 to 2020 provides for the implementation of 140 projects. The expected inflow of capital to the industry in a value of up to USD 2.3 billion is planned to account for about half of the foreign investment.

The textile and clothing industry should be expanded more than ever into an important export part of the central Asian republic. The specific activities for the targeted doubling of exports by 2020 versus 2016 are listed in the presidential regulation "On the program of measures for the further development of the textile, clothing and tricot industry 2017 to 2020" of December 21st 2016.

Full domestic processing of cotton fibers strived

With an annual output of 3.4 million tons of raw cotton and 1.1 million tons of cotton fibers, Uzbekistan is one of the world's six largest cotton producers. The production of 25,800 tons of cocoons is also considerable high (an average figure for 2012 to 2015). In the first half of 2016 55% of the produced cotton fibers were further locally processed. According to the program this rate should rise to 100% by 2020. It is also planned to reduce the amount of cotton yarn in textile exports in favor of more refined cotton products. Yarn now stands for 53% of the value of exported finished textile products.

The plan is to expand the production of finished textile products until 2020 by 120%, including 170% of yarn, 200% of finished tricot fabrics, 240% of finished yarn and clothing and 270% of hosiery. The share of finished goods in the textile and clothing industry is expected to increase from 47.0 to 65.5% and in export from 42.0 to 70.0%. The program also includes measures to adapt the Uzbek sector norms and standards   to the common international standard rules.

Supply and cooperation opportunities for 140 individually planned projects

Up to USD 2.3 billion shall be invested in 140 expansion and renewal projects by 2020, including complexes with a full value chain. Commercial banks or their investment companies which are providing loans for the co-financing of the projects may, depending on the project, acquire up to 100% of the capital stock of the new or modernized enterprises.

The main contact partner for the projects is the public shareholder company O'zbekyengilsanoat.  It owns 380 textile, clothing and tricot companies, as well as some silk processors, among of them many joint ventures. The company is comparable to a branch of the Ministry of Industry. It stands for a large part of the output and export of the Uzbek textile and clothing industry (estimation for 2016: about USD 1 billion).

Its tasks include the coordination and participation in investment projects. For example, all projects involving O'zbekyengilsanoat companies are subject to a technical review by the scientific and technical advice of the shareholder company. Import contracts for the needs of the projects are also subject to a review.   

Wide preferences for investors

Projects are flanked by several stimuli up to 1st January 2020. The state grants tariff preferences for the import of equipment, complements and spare parts, an exemption from the profit and wealth tax as well as from the duty to the central road fund. Export-oriented manufacturers of finished cotton-, blended-  and silk-fabrics-, finished clothing and tricots, head coverings, stockings and textile gallantry goods will be freed from the mandatory exchange of the foreign exchange in Uzbekistan Sum. Imports of raw materials, auxiliaries and materials can be promoted with customs clearance extension of up to 60 days.

The new central foreign trade company Ustextilexport has been founded to act as a service provider for the needs of all country-based industry players, including small businesses. This applies both to the exploitation of foreign markets, the supply of already established trading houses for textiles and clothing abroad with Uzbek products as well as to the participation in the procurement of technologies and materials for the domestic textile and clothing industry.

The current goals for the expansion of the textile and clothing industry are all rather too ambitious. Medium-term industry programs have already been launched in previous years. Despite some reached progress, the results have been rather sparse. The output and the effectiveness of the production remained far behind the targets. Already in 2012, 407,000 tons of cotton yarn, 350 million square meters of cotton fabrics and 273 million pieces of clothing should have been produced. The for 2012 targeted exports of USD 1.5 billion were also missed in 2016 (a good USD 1.0 billion).

The reasons for this are complex. Too little has been invested so far in the modernization of the existing enterprises. The companies complain about bottlenecks in the provisioning of working capital, in the supply of energy and, above all, in the exchange of foreign exchange for the procurement of imports (spare parts, auxiliary materials, etc.). Another obstacle is the over-regulation of import and export transactions.

Nevertheless, the industry remains a profitable business field for foreign companies. In addition, the signs are good for improving the business environment in the country. After the new President Shawkat Mirsijojew took office in December 2016, a positive mood goes through the country. First regulations for more entrepreneurial freedoms have already been adopted. A whole bunch of further measures is in sight.

Selected characteristics of the Light Industry of Uzbekistan 1)
Refenrence number 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Total output (in EUR mio) 2) 2,408.3 2,506.0 2,793.4 3,538.0 5,133.7
Share of industrial production as a whole (in %) 13.4 12.9 11.9 15.4 15.7
Real share versus last year on the basis of Usbekistan-SUM (in %) 4.0 12.9 11.9 15.4 15.7
Gross fixed capital formation (in EUR mio) 272.2 255.8 255.7 304.4 248.6
Degree of wear of the base fond
(as of Dec 31st (in %)
28.0 31,1 30.6 32.6 21.2
Number of employees (in 1,000 persons)      143.4 142.0 145.9 140.4 140.0
Textile industry 113.2 111.1 113.1 106.2 105.0
Clothing industry 24.1 24.6 26.0 28.5 29.0
Production of selected textiles and clothing products                   
Cotton yarn (in 1,000 t) 171.8 199.3 238.9 277.2 326.1
Raw silk yarn (in t)   1,465.8 1,119.1 1,875.9 854.3 1,349.8
Fabrics (in Mio. sqm)   187.3 204.9 257.1 236.8 227.1
Cotton fabrics 130.0 138.9 167,2 169.4 157.8
Silk fabrics 3.3 2.9 1.5 1.4 1.7
Woolen fabrics 0.2 0.2 0.04 0.04 0.3
.other fabrics 53.8 62.9 88.4 66.0 67.6
Knitted fabrics (1,000 t) 20.8 26.2 36.0 32.8 41.2
Tricot products (in pieces mio) 112.3 132.6 135.0 131.3 161.6
Hosiery (in pairs mio) 24.1 34.4 34.3 31.2 31.8
Clothing (in EUR Mio.)    83.4 93.6 115.0 292.7 559.0

1) In addition to the textile and clothing industry, the light industry comprises the sectors of cotton ginning and production of leather goods / shoes;
2) About two-thirds of the output is attributable to the textile and clothing sector;
3) Investments in the sectors cotton ginning, carpets and leather / leather products are less than 10% of the annually in the light industry invested capital.

Source: State Statistics Committee, Tashkent


Contacts
GAK O´zbekyengilsanoat (Staatliche Aktionärsgesellschaft O´zbekyengilsanoat)
ul. Bobura 45, 100100 Taschkent/Republik Usbekistan
Contact personIlchom Haydarov, Vorsitzender der GAK O´zbekengilsanoat; Schochruch Rachimow, manager investment department
Tel.: 00998 71/239 17 11, -253 93 54, -239 17 11, -253 93 58 (administration for investment projects), Fax: -253 93 58, -56 04 (department fir investment)
E-Mail: info@engilsanoat.uz, info@legprom.uz, Internet: http://www.engilsanoat.uz, http://www.legprom.uz

Belarus is expanding its textile and clothing industry © Florentine/pixelio.de
28.03.2017

BELARUS IS EXPANDING ITS TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY

PLANNED ABOLITION OF EU IMPORT QUOTAS ALLOWS MORE FOREIGN COMMITMENTS

Minsk (GTAI) - The textile and clothing industry of the Republic of Belarus faces great challenges. It has to become more efficient, should produce more market-orientated and make greater use of its export potential. The sector has great hopes on the by the European Union planned abolition of quotas for Belarusian textiles and clothing products. There are then more than ever good opportunities for the subcontracting finishing process.

PLANNED ABOLITION OF EU IMPORT QUOTAS ALLOWS MORE FOREIGN COMMITMENTS

Minsk (GTAI) - The textile and clothing industry of the Republic of Belarus faces great challenges. It has to become more efficient, should produce more market-orientated and make greater use of its export potential. The sector has great hopes on the by the European Union planned abolition of quotas for Belarusian textiles and clothing products. There are then more than ever good opportunities for the subcontracting finishing process.

The textile and clothing industry has traditionally been one of the most important sectors of the manufacturing industry in the Republic of Belarus. As a result of the sharp decline of the local purchasing power and of the main export market Russia, the sector has suffered a severe setback in the years 2013 to 2015. Since the second half of 2016 it is on an upswing again. According to preliminary data, the output has risen in 2016 by 4.6% to EUR 1.41 billion compared to 2015. Produced were 146.8 million sqm. of fabrics, 40.4 million pieces of knitwear, 147.0 million pairs of stockings and 19.9 million sqm. of carpet products.

Nevertheless the textile and clothing industry continues to suffer from a weak capacity utilization, an inadequate management and marketing as well as from a considerable backlog in the technological renewal of the equipment park. The implementation of an industry support program for the period from 2016 to 2020 should provide for a remedy. The program comes from the Belarussian State Group for production and sale of goods of the light industry Bellegprom. (http://www.bellegprom.by).

Sector program shows planned projects until 2020

Under the umbrella of the State Group 17 textile, 12 knitting and 21 garment companies are active. With an output of just under USD 0.9 billion, these manufacturers were involved with nearly three-fifths of the total output of the Belarusian textile and clothing industry in 2015. The companies have exported goods for nearly USD 500 million in 2015. The main customer was Russia (USD 357 million). The investments of the Bellegprom companies are expected to reach a volume of at least EUR 250 million in the years 2017 to 2020.

The envisaged projects for this period include:

  • the continuation of the comprehensive modernization of the Orschaer linen combine Orscha (production of linen yarn, -fabrics and finished products, processing of imported raw materials);
  • technological renewal in the company OAO Mogotex, Mahiljou / Mogilew (spinning and textile finishing);
  • the development and production of new competitive wool and wool blended fabrics in the company OAO Kamwol, Minsk;
  • the expansion of the production of hosiery, including an enlargement of the assortment of medical hosiery in the company SOOO Conte Spa, Grodno;
  • the commencement of production of seamless underwear in the company OAO Kupalinka, Salihorsk and
  • Investment in the production of fine thread Ajour-fabrics in OAO Switanak, Shodsina.

 

Selected characteristic data of the Belarusian textile and clothing industry
  2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Number of companies1) 1,577 1,605 1,693 1,715 1,671 1,552
Number of employees
(in 1,000 persons)1)
104.2 102.5 100.3 94.9 87.2 75.5
Production (in Mio. Euro)   1,440.7 1,654.3 1,673.7 1,663.0 1,499.7 1,181.8
Real change compared to previous year (in %)2) 13.5 6.8 1.4 -2.7 -2.4 -14.0
Share of production of the total manufacturing industry (in %) 3.8 3.4 3.2 3.6 3.4 3.2
Gross facility investment (in EUR mio) 103.8 114.0 96.4 125.2 177.6 76.1
Average monthly wage (Euro) 210.0 216.3 256.8 315.7 318.0 257.3
Production of selected products   
Fabrics, total (sqm. mio) 147.0 177.2 183.9 181.0 166.5 155.2
Fabrics made out of chemical fibers 65.8 82.3 83.8 80.5 67,4 69.5
Cotton fabrics 52.9 65.5 68.6 69.7 71,6 58.8
Linen fabrics 24.3 25.3 27.4 26.8 24.6 25.0
Woolen fabrics 4.0 3.2 3.1 3.5 2.5 1.6
Knitted goods (pieces mio) 63.7 64.2 62.8 61.2 51,1 42.2
Hosiery (pairs mio) 119.0 129.5 133.6 137.0 140.2 138.6
Carpets and floorcoverings (sqm. mio) 10.0 12.2 12.9 15.4 18.7 18.6

1)  Without regard to micro- and other small enterprises; at the end of 2015 225 textile and clothing companies were active in Belarus, the average number of employees in these companies was 58,800 persons per year;
2)  in terms of the national currency of Belarussian Ruble
Source: National Committee for Statistics, calculations by Trade & Invest in Germany.

In order to create complete value chains, it is envisaged to set up joint ventures between manufacturers of fabrics as well as producers of finished products. The Bellegprom Group is keen to focus the expansion potential on the production of linen fabrics and high-quality finished linen products.

Belarus is one of the world's five largest linen producers. For 2017 a volume of 55,000 tons is expected. In the year 2016 29 companies have processed flax straw into fibers. Of the in these factories installed 54 processing lines only ten are considered to be highly productive. According to the administration of the Mahiljou region, a Chinese investor wants to set up a factory in the region for the processing of flax for semi-finished and ready made goods in the near future.

Abolition of EU quotas planed

The EU plans to abolish the since 2010 existing autonomous quotas as well as the contingents for passive finishing processing for Belarus. The restrictions currently apply to a variety of textile products, including cotton and linen yarn as well as garments made out of cotton and woolen fabrics. Market observers agree: the abolition of the quotas with the related bureaucratic procedures would provide a solid basis for stimulating foreign investments in the Belarusian textile and clothing industry.

Belarus has many advantages: geographical proximity to the EU market, a well-developed infrastructure, long-standing industrial traditions, available production capacities, skilled labor and, last but not least, favorable labor costs. In a first phase of cooperation with Belarusian partners, the interest of foreign companies is likely to focus more on subcontracting. There are already successful projects that use the favorable framework conditions for this business model.   

The German Langheinrich Vertriebs GmbH, for example, produces high-quality table cloth and bed linen for the contract area in the small West-Belarussian town of Diwin (Kobryn district, Brest region). According to the director general of Langheinrich Konfektion GmbH, Walentina Paschkewitsch, the company, founded there in 2005, employs now between 90 and 120 employees depending on the order situation. Sales in 2016 amounted to around EUR 1 million. The in the company paid wages and the additional granted social packages are the guarantor of a very low fluctuation of the workforce. Among the companies from neighboring Lithuania, which are producing textiles and clothing in Belarus, the leading Baltic manufacturer of sportswear Audimas stands out.

 

Central America imports more textile machinery © Oliver Brunner/pixelio.de
07.03.2017

CENTRAL AMERICA IMPORTS MORE TEXTILE MACHINERY

  • Large-scale projects in Honduras
  • More vertical integration strived

Following the US President's decree against the Pacific Pact TPP, Central America's textile and clothing industry counts for its main market on further tariff advantages compared to the Asian competition. Next to the so far dominating subcontracting work the sector wants to intensify the production of pre-products, what requires more and better textile machinery for this purpose. Guatemala is already investing, while Nicaragua will continue to stay mainly with sewing and tailoring. The largest technology market was lately El Salvador.

  • Large-scale projects in Honduras
  • More vertical integration strived

Following the US President's decree against the Pacific Pact TPP, Central America's textile and clothing industry counts for its main market on further tariff advantages compared to the Asian competition. Next to the so far dominating subcontracting work the sector wants to intensify the production of pre-products, what requires more and better textile machinery for this purpose. Guatemala is already investing, while Nicaragua will continue to stay mainly with sewing and tailoring. The largest technology market was lately El Salvador.

Honduras wants to expand its textile and clothing industry strongly. The aim of the "20/20" program is to significantly increase exports and with it new jobs. One focus should be the production of sportswear and other synthetic clothing, including pre-products. Central America's "largest factory for polyester yarn" (DTY) went into construction at the end of January 2017 in Choloma. It is expected to cost USD 73 million and produce 25,000 tons per year. According to Mario Canahuati, a Honduran shareholder of the investor United Textiles of America, an additional USD 120 million factory for synthetic materials and garments should be added later.

Observers believe the sector's expansion plans are realistic because it can stem the relatively large investment in the synthetic fiber production. In the Honduran textile industry there are many joint ventures with US partners which can raise capital in North America. In the other countries of the region the sector companies are more strongly medium-sized. They are depending more on the local capital market with its high interest rates and restrictive banks.

Honduras, Guatemala and El Salvador invest

According to a machine representative the textile manufacturers in Guatemala will invest more in dyeing machines in order to become more independent from suppliers and keep the quality better under control. According to Invest in Guatemala the sector there delivers higher quality end products than the competition from El Salvador and Honduras, on the US market clothing from Guatemalan is almost twice as expensive.

The textile industry in Guatemala and El Salvador is more vertically integrated than in Honduras: it produces relatively quite a lot of yarn and fabrics by itself and is less dependent of the typical subcontracting (Maquila) method, which only imports textiles and re-exports them as finished clothing. Honduras mainly processes imported synthetic fiber yarns, which the country - like El Salvador - manufactures partly by itself.

The best market in Central America for a large German textile machine manufacturer is currently El Salvador, which imports the most technology in the region. The customers are quite innovative and work more concept orientated, which makes the cooperation easier. Due to increased yarn prices, some weaving companies are currently investing in spinning machines, a machinery salesman says. According to the Central America Strategic Sourcing Review, more than 20% of the factories are "vertically integrated".

In the opinion of machine representatives, Nicaragua is still concentrating on subcontracting. Investors are reluctant to spend larger sums which would be needed for modern textile  manufacturing. In addition there is a lack of good specialists for the foreseeable future, the level of training is only sufficient for easier sewing and clothing manufacturing. In Panama the textile industry does not play a nameable role; in Costa Rica, which is also relatively prosperous, the sector is larger, but exports little.

Central America’s textile and clothing industry

Indicator Guatemala Honduras El Salvador Nicaragua
Number of manufacturers 215 125
(2015)
n.a. n.a.
Employees (direct) 90,000 (2013) 99,100
(2015)
75,000
(estimation)
70,000
(estimation, 2014)
Clothing exports to the USA
(2016, bn. US$) *)
1,380 2,554 1,941 1,472
Production of synthetic fibres
(2016, 1,000 t)
0 26,5 17,2 0
Installed capacity (2015, 1,000 Units)
Spindles 153 n.a. 250 40
OE-Rotors 21 n.a. 1.4 n.a.
Weaving looms 3.9 n.a. 3.2 0.65

*) Costa Rica 29 Mio.; Clothing = almost total industry exports; 80% of exports are for the US; data from US import authority. Source: ITMF; national associations and authorities; Press

Central America Textile companies are usually located in a free zone and produce for export, mainly the US. In Honduras, according to a study by the Central Bank, Maquila - with textile / clothing as the largest segment - produced 36% of pre-products for other contractors and 64% of final products, which in turn were exported up to 99%.

US protectionism could even help

The protectionism, which is announced in the main market USA, develops some optimism to Central America's textile industry. As listed in “Honduras 20/20” it now can deliver more cheaply to the US than the competition from China or Vietnam because of existing trade agreements. At an - now not targeted anymore - omission of cutting US customs duties for Vietnam, it would be much more expensive. In addition, a garment factory in Honduras is able to deliver to the US in two days, a delivery from Vietnam requires twenty days. In the today so very fast fashion world, this is the main reason why Wal-Mart & Co. are ordering massive masses in Central America.

Until now, Central America has been supplying mainly cheap clothing for the US mass market, but, as a German machinery exporter is hoping, they will try to settle themselves against the Asian competition with higher valuable goods. For this the Central American manufacturers would need better technology, which preferable comes from Europe. In the view of other representatives Central America will need in future productive machines that are cheap at the same time. Chinese machines with European components are a big competition.

Machinery imports rising

Central America Imports of textile machinery and sewing machines have risen by one-third to over USD 130 million between 2013 and 2015. In addition, according to the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF), Honduras has imported 170 round knitting machines in 2014 and 2015, Guatemala only 26, El Salvador 23 and Nicaragua ten. Germany was the fifth most important delivery country. Leading supplier was the USA. For Guatemala, with its many Korean-owned textile companies, Korea (Rep) was the main supplier.According to ITMF, Central America will shift its investments somewhat away from the clothing area towards the textile sector. Already today, the representative of a German manufacturer says: "We are currently selling very well in Mexico and Central America." 

Central America‘s1) imports of textile machinery (bn. US$) 2)

SITC Product group /Country / Country of delivery 2013 2014 2015 20163)
  total 97.5 116.0 131.6 70.8
72472) Machines for washing, drying, dying a.o. 25.7 27.9 35.4 9.4
724.35 Other sewing machines 21.0 24.2 29.2 18.8
7245 Weaving looms and knitting machines 21.7 23.7 28.8 20.9
7244 Spinning machines 11.5 21.7 19.8 11.6
7246 Auxiliary machines 14.4 12.8 13.8 8.1
72492) Parts 3.1 5.7 4.6 2.0
  USA 32.5 33.4 27.9 12.7
  Italy 8.8 10.6 20.8 17.5
  China 9.1 12.1 15.4 6.6
  Korea (Rep.) 6.2 9.5 12.1 0.5
  Germany 9.6 4.0 10.9 6.9
  Japan 3.9 7.2 7.7 6.0
  El Salvador 48.5 55.4 70.9 70.8
724.35   12.9 16.4 20.5 18.8
7245   7.0 11.7 16.1 20.9
72472)   11.3 12.0 12.9 9.4
7244   6.5 5.1 11.2 11.6
7246   9.4 8.6 7.9 8.1
  Guatemala 28.9 32.6 44.8 n.a
72472)   5.3 6.2 12.4 n.a.
7245   8.9 8.3 11.2 n.a
7244   3.5 4.9 7.2 n.a
724.35   5.8 5.9 6.8 n.a
7246   4.4 3.7 5.5 n.a
  Costa Rica 13.9 21.3 10.2 n.a
72472)   5.2 5.0 5.7 n.a
7244   1.4 11.4 1.3 n.a
7245   5.1 3.0 1.2 n.a
724.35   1.4 1.2 1.2 n.a
  Panama 6.1 6.8 5.8 n.a
72472)   4.0 4.7 4.3 n.a

1) without Honduras and Nicaragua; 2) SITC 724, without household sewing machines, (724.33), household washing machines, (724.71), machines for dry-cleaning(724.72), leather machines(7248), parts for household washing machines; 3) El Salvador only
Source: UN Comtrade

Baby products booming in China © jurec/pixelio.de
28.02.2017

BABY PRODUCTS BOOMING IN CHINA

  • No longer just milk powder demanded 
  • Internet important sales channel

The easing of the one-child policy in China will probably not bring the expected baby boom. Nevertheless, the market for baby products is very interesting for foreign suppliers. Because Chinese parents trust these more than domestic products and they are willing to spend money on imports. After this has been already the case with milk powder, now household appliances, furniture, care products for babies and expectant mothers are in the focus. The internet is very important as a sales channel.

  • No longer just milk powder demanded 
  • Internet important sales channel

The easing of the one-child policy in China will probably not bring the expected baby boom. Nevertheless, the market for baby products is very interesting for foreign suppliers. Because Chinese parents trust these more than domestic products and they are willing to spend money on imports. After this has been already the case with milk powder, now household appliances, furniture, care products for babies and expectant mothers are in the focus. The internet is very important as a sales channel.

Between 17.5 million and 21 million babies are expected to be born every year in China, according to the forecasts of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) within the next five years. This provides a large market for products needed for baby care and for pregnant women. Also baby seats for cars, prams and furniture from abroad are being sought as well.

According to iResearch market research the total sales of products for pregnant women, mothers and babies amounted to RMB 2.3 billion in 2015. (approximately USD 360 billion; 1 USD = RMB 6.39 as an annual average). The growth rate of 25% is expected to weaken in the future, but the demand is still growing strongly. Despite the fact that the birth rates are hardly rising, the "little emperors" are pampered with pleasure. Quality and security promises are the decisive factor for foreign products in the urban middle class.

Quality and safety speak for foreign products 

The share of sales thru the Internet is steadily growing. More than 15% of purchases for the little Chinese are already made via the network. By 2018 the proportion is expected to grow to 23%. This is what market analysts have found out together with the second-largest Chinese online portal JD.com. Furthermore, the per capita purchases are highest in the prosperous coastal provinces. But, for example, mothers in Sichuan in the south-west also spend over RMB 1,000 per year for their offspring.

With China's size, new brands hardly can accomplish a successful market appearance. But the Internet provides a valuable platform and is used by expectant mothers to get information and also to purchase. Leading are the platforms of the Alibaba Group, for example Tmall and the competitor JD.com. There are also specialized shopping portals such as bleibi.com, mia.com and gou.com, as well as social media channels such as WeChat and Internet forums for expectant mothers (e.g. mama.cn or Babytree).

Sales of baby and pregnant women's products (in RMB billion, year to year change in sales in %.)
  Turnover Change
2013 1,400 13.8
2014 2,000 30.2
2015 2,300 25.2
2016 *) 2,600 12.5
2017 *) 2,900 12.0
2018 *) 3,200 10.1

*) from 2016 forecasts
Source: iResearch, JD.com

Alibaba announced in its financial statement about cross-border Internet shopping for 2016, that baby products are already the third largest import category. In recent years this segment has grown considerably, in 2016 imported goods stood already for more than one-fifth of baby products sold on the Tmall and Taobao platforms.

Cross-border trade in baby products is booming

While in the past foreign milk powder brands were in high demand, now bottles, baby seats and care products for mother and child are now in the focus of online shoppers. Chinese milk powder still enjoys little confidence following a large scandal with contaminated milk powder in 2008.

The online trade however also was overshadowed in 2016 by scandals involving counterfeit products, mainly re-packaged milk powder came into circulation. The government therefore is watching the boom in overseas e-commerce with mixed feelings and consumers are becoming more cautious.

In recent years’ diapers, also have been ordered especially from abroad (especially from Japan). While these two categories continue to account for more than half of the sales, baby bottles and child seats experienced explosive growth in 2016. In addition, the mothers like to order cosmetics and personal hygiene, which will not hurt the growing life. This applies in particular to natural cosmetics.

In 2016 the leading countries of origin for online imports were Japan (19.3%), USA (18.3%) and Korea Rep. (13.6%). But Germany was already on fourth place with 8.0%. Particularly popular with "made in Germany" were kitchen equipment (including kitchen appliances), milk powder, baby food and food supplements.

 

Chinas Import of hygienic products*) (in USD millions; change compared to previous year in %)
2010 2014 2015 2016 Change
157 752 1,357 1,310 -3.7

*) HSPos. 9619 Sanitary napkins, tampons, diapers for toddlers;
Source: Chinese Custom

 

Chinas Import of Baby Food*) (in USD millions; change compared to previous year in %)
  2010 2014 2015 2016 Change
Insgesamt 688 1,565 2,518 3,150 25.0
Deutschland 14 60 302 346 14.5

*) HSPos. 1901.10;
Source: Chinese Custom

 

The Poles like new Clothes for themselves © Hardy5 / pixelio.de
22.11.2016

THE POLES LIKE NEW CLOTHES FOR THEMSELVES

  • German fashion demanded
  • Shoe chain CCC is expanding

Warsaw (GTAI) - The demand for textiles, clothing and footwear is developing particularly dynamic in Poland in 2016. These items are also popular Christmas gifts. Despite strong competition, Germany remains the third-largest foreign supplier of clothing and continues to grow. The German online retailer Zalando is building its first huge logistics center in Poland. The Discounter KiK is opening further branches. The domestic shoe chain CCC is expanding.

  • German fashion demanded
  • Shoe chain CCC is expanding

Warsaw (GTAI) - The demand for textiles, clothing and footwear is developing particularly dynamic in Poland in 2016. These items are also popular Christmas gifts. Despite strong competition, Germany remains the third-largest foreign supplier of clothing and continues to grow. The German online retailer Zalando is building its first huge logistics center in Poland. The Discounter KiK is opening further branches. The domestic shoe chain CCC is expanding.

Retail sales of textiles, clothing and footwear are the fastest growing of all product groups in Poland. According to the Statistical Office (GUS) (http://stat.gov.pl), the real growth rate reached 15.8% in the first three quarters of 2016 compared to January to September 2015. The total retail sales rose by 5.3% in the same time. The forthcoming Christmas business is expected to further stimulate the demand for fashion items. The in the current year introduced children's allowance also will heat the purchase power of the Poles.

Sales value of clothing and footwear in Poland (in Zl billion)
2012 2013 2014 2015 1) 2016 2) 2017 2)
28.7 28.9 31.8 33.4 35.3 37.1

1) Estimation, 2) Forecast
Source: Market research company PMR

First and foremost, growing is the demand for common items in the lower, middle and upper segment. Clothing manufacturers however in the luxury category do not benefit from the rising demand. According to the consulting firm KPMG, the poles spent in 2015 about 14.3 billion Zloty (Zl, about EUR 3.4 billion, 1 EUR = 4.1841, average price 2015) for luxury goods, including Zl 2,065 billion for clothing and accessories. These, however, form an important product group and rank second behind passenger cars (ZI 6.974 billion).

The largest domestic clothing company LPP  also felt the fact that the demand potential in the precious segment is limited. The company is known for its brands for everyone, especially "Reserved", which generates almost half (47%) of its revenues. At the beginning of 2016 LPP launched its new premium brand "Tallinder". After the sales however remained below the expectations, LPP announced the gradual abandonment of this project in September 2016.    

Tallinder was supposed to compete with the established gents brands and suppliers of other high-quality clothing names like Vistula, Bytom and Prochnik. The market leader in men's clothing Vistula, which also includes the jewelry chain "W.Kruk" and the brand of women's wear Deni Cler, expects in 2016 (2015) an increase of ZI 590 (518)  million and of its net profit to ZI 37.0 (28.3) million. Bytom follows far behind with projected revenues of ZI 154 (131) million and a net profit of EUR 14.1 (12.4) million.
 
CCC is aiming abroad

Due to the growing demand, the number of specialist stores for clothing is growing, according to GUS us to around 37,100 until the end of 2015 (2014: 35,900) . At the same time the number of stores for shoes and leather goods, which amounted to 8,200 (8,300) in 2015, fell slightly. One reason for this is the proliferation of relevant trade chains, such as the shoe chain CCC, which contributes to a consolidation, and the increasing online trade.

In 2016 alone CCC opens around 40 new stores in Poland and increases its sales area by 20 to 30% annually. In 2016 this will increase by 105,000 sqm and 2017 by 120,000 sqm (net). The trade chain is looking for additional franchisees in other European countries, now also in Asia and the USA. In the Russian Federation CCC wants to open large salons with about 1,000 square meters. According to the chain founder Dariusz Milek in an announcement of the daily paper Rzeczpospolita the presence in Ukraine, Belarus, Kazakhstan and Central European neighbors should be increased too.

The branch networks in Germany and Austria should not be increased further in the near future; In Austria there are already almost all of the targeted total 70 CCC stores.  Due to the lack of profit in these two countries, their share of the group’s total income, which is expected to reach some ZI 3.2 billion in 2016, should not exceed 10%. CCC also relies on e-commerce. After the trade chain had already acquired the online shop for shoes eobuwie.pl, it wants to start in spring 2017 with its own e-shop.

Polish imports of clothing exceed exports. The two main suppliers of textiles, China and Bangladesh, were able to further increase their deliveries to Poland in 2015. Germany also achieved growth and finished third. Slovakia has multiplied its exports. Among the customer countries Germany was by far the most important player with a further significant increase in its demand. The other ranks were followed by the Netherlands, Czech Republic, Austria, Sweden and other mostly European countries.

Polish foreign trade with clothing made out of woven fabrics (Zl million)
Customs tariff 6201 to 6209 2013 2014 2015
Import, thereof from: 5,392.4 6,910.0 8,589.6
.PR China 2,115.3 2,532.3 2,915.8
.Bangladesh 758.4 1,019.2 1,243.5
.Germany 522.1 607.7 745.4
.Turkey 290.6 404.3 570.9
.Slovakia 25.0 82.6 396.9
.India 258.8 329.9 366.7
Export, thereof to: 5,895.4 6,830.1 7.894.9
.Germany 2,997.3 3,677.7 4.388.0

Source: Central Statistical Office CIS

Germany is not only characterized by high-quality clothing and well-known brands in Poland. The in Europe leading chain KIK is spreading further in the neighboring country. By the end of 2017 the number of stores should increase to 200. Its first store in Poland KIK opened in March 2012.

E-commerce is likely to give further impetus to the German supply of clothing. The large online retailer Zalando is setting up its first logistics center in Poland in Gryfino in the area of the special economic zone Kostrzyn-Slubice (Küstrin-Frankfurt / O.) for an amount of EUR 150 million. According to the property developer Goodman, it will be the largest logistics area occupied by a single company in Poland. At the same time, it is one of the most extensive BTS (built-to-suit) projects in the country, in which an object is fully built according to the requirements of the future user. Its opening is scheduled for the second half of 2017. Zalando wants to supply from there Poland, the Nordic countries and a part of Germany.

Polish foreign trade with knitted clothing (in Mio. Zl)
Customs tariff  6101 to 6114 2013 2014 2015
Import, thereof from: 5,191.6 6,748.2 8,404.7
.PR China 1,574.1 1,970.7 2,378.5
.Bangladesh 903.2 1,258.8 1,583.4
.Germany 538.1 723.8 927.5
.Turkey 512.9 628.7 796.5
.Cambodia 235.4 464.3 586.7
Export, thereof to: 4,521.4 5,108.9 6,299.0
Germany 1,888.0 2,343.8 2,996.3

Source: Central Statistical Office CIS

 

Japan's Machinery Engineers defy Competition © mg-projects.at / pixelio.de
04.10.2016

INDUSTRY COMPACT: JAPAN'S MACHINERY ENGINEERS DEFY COMPETITION

Large Companies focus on abroad and the Digitization 

Tokyo (GTAI) - Japan's machinery and facility manufacturers expect increasing orders again. An increase is expected, especially for the international business. They saw the slight financial doldrums of 2015 before. However, there were exceptions - for example at the robot technology. The big companies have a strong interest in the subject of Industry 4.0. Here are cooperation opportunities for German companies, also on third markets.

The Asian region remains high on the Agenda

Large Companies focus on abroad and the Digitization 

Tokyo (GTAI) - Japan's machinery and facility manufacturers expect increasing orders again. An increase is expected, especially for the international business. They saw the slight financial doldrums of 2015 before. However, there were exceptions - for example at the robot technology. The big companies have a strong interest in the subject of Industry 4.0. Here are cooperation opportunities for German companies, also on third markets.

The Asian region remains high on the Agenda

Japan's economy is not yet in full swing. A new in August released stimulus package of the government is to ensure the recovery. In total Yen 28.1 billion (EUR 246.49 billion, in early September 2016: 1 Euro = Yen 114) amounts to the "package” which is funded to about 25% directly from the state treasury. The investment plans of the manufacturing industry are looking promising in the fiscal year 2016 (4.1 to 3.31.). They could rise by 14.5% over the previous year, according to the result of a survey of the Development Bank of Japan (DBJ) in July 2016.

This is confirmed by a survey of the business newspaper Nikkei with 1,140 participating companies. In the fiscal year 2016 they want to investment a volume of Yen 25.28 billion. This would be an increase over the investments made in the fiscal year of 2015 of 8.3%. If the expansion plans will actually be implemented, it would be the seventh consecutive increase year. Manufacturers of electronic machines have the most ambitious investment plans: Yen 3,64 billion, they have scheduled approximately 9.4% more than in the previous year.

Meanwhile lean foreign Business

According to the sector association JSIM (Japan Society of Industrial Machinery Manufacturers) in the fiscal year 2015 the incoming orders for industrial machinery remained below the expectations. Incoming orders came nearly to Yen 5.50 billion.  These were almost 10% less than the year before. Industry experts had already expected in advance that particularly the foreign business would suffer after the exceptionally successful year 2014. For the fiscal year 2016 the JSIM experts expect an increase of 4.6% to Yen 5.73 billion.

Not as positive as in the preceding years the situation looks in the machine tool segment. According to the industry association JMTBA (Japan Machine Tool Builders' Association) the orders declined in 2015 over the previous year by 11.4% and reached around Yen 1.40 billion. - This is justified by an overcapacity abroad. In fact it was the overseas business which fell by 22.1% to just under Yen 820 billion, while there was still an increase of 9.9% to Yen 579 billion yen domestically. With a view on the 1st quarter of 2016 the association has to state that the foreign business has not yet recovered. With more than one-quarter the orders declined compared to the same period last year.

The domestic market thus wins in importance for Japan's machinery builders. Generally, there is a need of modernization of the partly obsolete equipment at the local businesses. In addition, the reconstruction of the earthquake regions is required too. In addition, the hosting of the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo is considered quasi as a guarantor of business orders from the construction sector.

Orders by machine type, fiscal years 2014 to 2016 (in billion Yen), change in %)
  2014, total 1) 2015, total 2) 2016, total 3) 2016, domestic  2016, abroad Change 2016/15, total
Boilers, Turbines 1,809 1,796 1,896 1,390 506 5.6
Mining 23 29 31 28 3 6.9
Chemistry 4) 2,097 1,405 1,455 828 628 3.6
Tanks 30 47 56 26 30 18.7
Plastic processing 194 211 216 87 129 2.5
Pumps 336 358 373 270 103 4.3
Compressors 267 267 274 136 138 2.5
Ventilators 28 28 30 25 5 8.6
Boost material 355 400 433 282 150 8.3
Drive technology 50 53 54 45 8 2.5
Metalworking 162 182 186 79 107 2.5
Others 5) 725 703 725 535 189 3.1
Total  6,075 5,477 5,729 3,732 1,997 4.6

 
 1) actual results; 2) preliminary; 3) forecast; 4) also included in category: pulp- and paper machines, chillers, equipment for air- and water cleaning; 5) among others: equipment for waste treatment, industrial washing machines
Source: Japan Society of Industrial Machinery Manufacturers, February 2016

A high importance is given to the field of environmental and energy technology for the machinery industry in Japan. Although reactors, that meet stringent safety regulations, are expected to enter the net again in the next few years, renewable energy will be pushed up. In addition, there are intelligent power networks (smart grids) in the focus. Especially in areas with high priority, such as the energy and environmental technology, German suppliers with innovative technologies and customized solutions can win the points.

Connection links by Industry 4.00

Digitalization and with it topics related to Industry 4.0 keep the Japanese machinery and factory builders now very much interested. In June 2015, the "Industrial Value Chain Initiative (IVI)" was launched. About 40 Japanese companies belong to this interest group – like as the branches of the German Bosch and Beckhoff Automation GmbH. End April 2016 the German Federal Ministry of Economics (BMWi) signed with the Japanese Ministry of Economy (Meti) a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) for joint cooperation in the region.
Equipment manufacturers from abroad should observe under cooperation aspects with big business interests the international activities of the Japanese mechanical and plant engineering. The Japanese abroad generated production shares are not far from the 40% mark the Japan Bank for International Cooperation (JBIC) determined the end of 2015. This creates opportunities for third-market operations, which are often controlled by the parent companies in Japan.

In foreign projects the PRC stands not as strong in the foreground as it used to be. The focus is increasingly directed on the ASEAN countries („Association of Southeast Asian Nations"), while currently the general economic activities in the emerging markets are critically observed. In the longer term India has been planned as a manufacturing location. Single, large companies dominate.

According to preliminary data from the industry association JMF (Japan Machinery Federation) Japanese engineering companies manufactured machines worth of about Yen 13.55 billion in the fiscal year 2015. This was 2% less than last year. Important were cooling machines, (Yen 1.98 billion, 4.8%) as well as equipments for manufacturing of semiconductors and flat panel monitors -Yen 1.61billion, 2,8%. The manufacturer of metalworking machines had a production decline over the previous year by 5.9% to Yen 1.18 billion. Growth rates of just over 10% are registered in the robotics segment since several years.

In general the concentration in the individual equipment segments is high. According to the Yano Economic Research Institute in the fiscal year 2015, slightly more than two thirds of the NC milling machine production came from three companies: Makino Milling, Okuma and OKK. In general metalworking machines Amada, Kobe Steel and Kawasaki Hydromechanics (subsidiary of Kawasaki Steel) came on a market share of about three-quarters. Other important tool machine vendors are Yamazaki Mazak and Mori Seiki. Also in construction, textile, packaging and food processing equipment the three leading manufacturers account for at least 60% of domestic production for themselves.

Production by selected machines, Fiscal years 2014-2016
(in billion Yen, change in %)
  2014 1) 2015 2) 2016 3) Change 2016/15
Boilers, Turbines 1,433 1,193 1,127 1,9
Pumps, Ventilators 440 486 498 2.5
Compressors 677 666 669 0.4
Boost Equipment 533 533 595 7.5
Robotics 594 681 750 10.2
Drive – technology 419 413 418 1.2
Agricultural machinery 456 444 422 -5.0
Metalworking 1,257 1,183 1,120 -5.4
Food processing machines 448 518 520 0.5
Chillers  1,894 1,984 1,958 -1.3
Machines for the production of semiconductors and flat Monitors 1,564 1,608 1,772 10.2
Total machinery 13,838 13,554 13,784 1.7

1) actual results; 2) preliminary; 3) forecast
Source: Japan Machinery Federation (JMF), July 2016

Japan imports partly from our own production abroad

The Japanese imports of machinery and equipment continue to increase. It should be noted, that some of the imports are based on the foreign production of local companies. The largest share of supplies from abroad accounts for the category pumps and compressors. According to the United Nations Comtrade database this category reached on the basis of USD around USD 3.57 billion in 2015. This was 6.5% less than in the last year.

Just over 30% of the supplies came from the PRC; probably to a not inconsiderable proportion from Japanese production. The latter is also the case with electrical machines. According to Comtrade these reached in 2015 an import value of slightly more than USD 55 billion (-8%). More than a third of this was accounted for the PRC; about one-fifth to Asian emerging markets. In the import statistics Germany is especially noted in machine tools and food and packaging machines.

Despite displacements to abroad Japanese exports continue to play a role. In 2016 they are likely to suffer from the resurgent Yen. Moreover, the economic slowdown in the Asian emerging markets is becoming more noticeable.

Import of machinery to Japan (in million Yen)
HS Description of goods 2014 2015 From Germany(2015)
8429 bis 30, 8474, 8479.10 Construction- and Constructionmaterial machines, Mining machinery 41,275.5 48,946.3 4,699.8
8444 bis 49, 8451 bis 53 Textile- and Leathermachines 65,712.2 64,431.0 4,934.5
8439 bis 42, 8443.11 bis 19 Printing and Papermachines 43,089.1 43,239.5 15,835.5
8422.30 bis 40, 8437, 8438, 8479.20 Food- and Packaging machines 38,155.9 49,887.9 11,197.5
8465, 8479.30 Woodworking machinery 8,466.0 8,099.7 2,215.3
8477 Plastic- and Rubber machines 67,477.2 64,335.5 6,783.4
8413, 8414 Pumps and Compressors 403,986.5 432,352.1 26,565.7
8425 bis 28 Boost Technology 61,233.1 65,326.0 13,124.7
8456 bis 63 Machine tools for metalworking  93,513.9 111,394.1 26,701.5

Source: Japanese custom statistics

 
Commercial practice

Relevant provisions for machine and plant engineering in Japan will be supplied by the following institutions: Japan Customs, the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry (METI), the Center for Information on Security Trade Control Japanese Standards Association (http://www.jsa.or.jp), the Japanese Industrial Standards Committee , the Japan Accreditation Board for Conformity Assessment  and the Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO ). JETRO published in February 2010 the still actual report "Handbook for Industrial Products Import Regulations 2009", which contains the specific import requirements for some types of machines, especially for machine tools, food processing and packaging machines.

Detailed information on commercial and tax laws are available at http://www.gtai.de/recht and for import arrangements, tariffs and NTB under http://www.gtai.de/zoll

Internetadresses
Name Internet addresses Comments
Germany Trade & Invest http://www.gtai.de/japan Foreign Trade Information for German Export
AHK Japan http://japan.ahk.de Information place for German companies
Minstry of Economy, Trade and Industry http://www.meti.go.jp Responsible for strategy and planning for industrial
machinery engineering and related sectors
Japan Machinery Federation http://www.jmf.or.jp Association of Machinery Engineering
Japan Society of Industrial Machinery Manufacturers http://www.jsim.or.jp Association of Industrial Machinery Manufacturers
Japan Machine Tool Builders' Association http://www.jmtba.or.jp Association of Machine Tool BuildersHerstellerverband für Werkzeugmaschinen
JIMTOF/Japan International Machine Tool Fair Tokyo Big Sight      http://www.jimtof.org Largest and most important machine tool exhibition
(every two years, next date November
17th – 22nd 2016)


The series “Sector compact” provides analysis on important key sectors of German export economy.
Other country reports for machinery and plant engineering and other industries can be found at http://www.gtai.de/branche-kompakt .
Contact for engineering: Roland Lorenz; E-Mail: roland.lorenz@gtai.de

 

Usbekistan invests USD 115 Millions in its shoe and leather industry © Vera/ pixelio.de
20.09.2016

UZBEKISTAN INVESTS USD 115 MILLION IN THE SHOE AND LEATHER INDUSTRY

Industry Association is searching for Business Partners

Tashkent (GTAI) - The Central Asian Republic of Uzbekistan is launching a new initiative for the modernization and expansion of its shoe and leather industry. Until 2020 numerous projects are planned to open foreign offering parties sales opportunities. In addition to machinery and equipment various supplies such as shoe parts, materials and chemicals are required. The majority of the sector companies concentrated in the industrial association O'zbekcharmpoyabzali.

Industry Association is searching for Business Partners

Tashkent (GTAI) - The Central Asian Republic of Uzbekistan is launching a new initiative for the modernization and expansion of its shoe and leather industry. Until 2020 numerous projects are planned to open foreign offering parties sales opportunities. In addition to machinery and equipment various supplies such as shoe parts, materials and chemicals are required. The majority of the sector companies concentrated in the industrial association O'zbekcharmpoyabzali.

The shoe and leather industry of Uzbekistan is facing a new wave of investment. In the years 2016-2020 the implementation of 82 projects for the establishment of new or for the expansion and modernization of existing capacities is planned. The commissioning of 48 new production facilities and the technical renewal or extension of 34 factories is provided. The for the projects necessary investments are estimated at USD 115 million.

Numerous business opportunities for foreign companies

The expansion and modernization projects offer a range of business opportunities to foreign companies. This applies to the supply of shoe parts, auxiliaries and additives, accessories and chemicals (tannins, fat accumulating and degreasing agents, aniline and pigments) as well as machinery and equipment, including used technology. In the tanneries and shoe factories mainly following types of equipment are required:

  • Vacuum dryer
  • Spiral blade for excarnation and planers
  • Electronic instruments for measuring the leather Surface
  • Slotting machines and squeezing machines
  • Sewing machines for shoe production
  • Hydraulic cutting machines
  • Splitting machines for shell Elements
  • Equipment for shoe assembly

In addition, some companies strive for the establishment of joint ventures with foreign capital participation.

Industry association O'zbekcharmpoyabzali coordinates investment projects

Behind the expansion and modernization program of the sector stands the Uzbek Association of Leather and Shoes O'zbekcharmpoyabzali. The majority of the companies of the industry are concentrated under its umbrella. The association today includes more than 80 manufacturers of raw material leather / finished leather (production of hard leather / foot and insole leather and soft leather / upper leather, including mainly chrome leather goods and Russia leather / fine calf leather for shoes), women, men, and children's footwear and gallantry leather accessories.

The in 2010 founded industry part-association is the central buying organization of raw- material leather and coordinates investments in the shoe and leather industry of the country. The association takes similarly care as its sister organization, the state joint stock company for the textile and clothing industry O'zbekyengilsanoat, which is comparable in the area of responsibility with as a small specialized ministry. 

A special professional association, which mainly would take care of the interests of private independent leather and shoe manufacturers, is not available in the country. Shoe producers, which are operating outside of the industry organization, represent about one third of the shoe production in Uzbekistan.

Annual production is expected to increase to USD 0.5 billion until 2020

The production of goods of the O'zbekcharmpoyabzali enterprises is expected to reach a volume of USD 140 million in 2016. In comparison to 2010 that would be a tenfold. In 2016 8.7 million pair of shoes are expected to be produced (2010: 3.1 million pairs). The expectation for 2020 is a production of goods in an amount of USD 476 million. Exports are assumed to rise from USD 191 (forecast for 2016) to USD 301 million in 2020. Shoes and other leather goods are currently being exported to the PR of China, to Pakistan, Turkey, India, Kazakhstan, Korea (Rep.), Italy, Spain and the United Kingdom. 

But - the new industry program remains far behind the original goals. The investment program for the period 2011 to 2015 provided an increase of shoe production by 120% to 14.2 million pair in comparison to 2011. The production of leather should rise by 90% (to 468 million qdm), of leather clothes by 720% as well as leather accessories by 40%.

From 2008/09 the industry showed a clear uptrend. However, the situation in the industry began to worsen again in 2012/13. As the main reasons for this market experts identified this mainly with liquidity problems of the companies, major difficulties in currency conversion and associated restrictions on the procurement of supplies from abroad and a general deterioration of the business climate in the country.
The production of leather, footwear and leather goods accounts now for only a fraction of the production of the late 1980s and early 1990s. In 1990 the companies still produced about 50 million pairs of shoes per year.

Die Produktion von Leder, Schuhen und Lederwaren macht heute nur einen Bruchteil der Produktion von Ende der 1980er und Anfang der 1990er Jahre aus. Im Jahr 1990 produzierten die Unternehmen noch circa 50 Mio. Paar Schuhe pro Jahr.

Contact addresses:

O´zbekiston charm va poyabzal ishlab chiqarish korxonalarining O´zbekcharmpoyabzali uyushmasi
(Association oft he leather and footwear enterprises of Usbekistan O´zbekcharmpoyabzali)
Mustakillik kuc., 109, 100192 Taschkent
Contact: Maksudshon Mansurow, chairman, Sharifshon Scheralijew, deputy chairman
Tel.: 00998 71/23052-80, Fax: -83
E-Mail: info@uzcharm.uz,  Internet: http://www.uzcharm.uz 

Turkish State pushes sluggish Economy © Bildpixel/ pixelio.de
06.09.2016

TURKISH STATE PUSHES SLUGGISH ECONOMY

  • Low interest rates and government subsidies should drive consumption and Investments
  • Less start-ups and fewer direct foreign investment

Istanbul (GTAI) - After the failed coup attempt of July 15th 2016 the Turkish government wants to support the economy. Financial relief, government subsidies and a low interest rate policy should aim strengthening of consumption and investment and eliminate the arisen uncertainty in the business world. At the same time the overall savings ratio should be increased and the basis for financing of major infrastructure projects be improved.

The target of the government for an economic growth of 4.5% in 2016 appears now as no longer realistic. After the impressive increase of 4.8% in Q1 2016 government representatives expect for the rest of the year lower numbers, so that for the full year 2016 a growth of around 3.0 to 3.5% could be achieved.

  • Low interest rates and government subsidies should drive consumption and Investments
  • Less start-ups and fewer direct foreign investment

Istanbul (GTAI) - After the failed coup attempt of July 15th 2016 the Turkish government wants to support the economy. Financial relief, government subsidies and a low interest rate policy should aim strengthening of consumption and investment and eliminate the arisen uncertainty in the business world. At the same time the overall savings ratio should be increased and the basis for financing of major infrastructure projects be improved.

The target of the government for an economic growth of 4.5% in 2016 appears now as no longer realistic. After the impressive increase of 4.8% in Q1 2016 government representatives expect for the rest of the year lower numbers, so that for the full year 2016 a growth of around 3.0 to 3.5% could be achieved.

But not only the failed coup attempt and subsequent the internal political turmoil are affecting the economic development. Also the in the recent months clearly increased geopolitical risks, the armed conflicts along the southeastern border with Syria and Iraq, and the threat of terrorist attacks are pressing on the business climate.

The number of start-ups is declining since April 2016th. According to the Turkish Chamber Union TOBB (Türkiye Odalar ve Borsalar Birligi) in July a provisional low point with a decline of about 34% over the same month of last year has been reached.

Establishment of new companies
Month 2015 2016

Change (%)

January 6,471 6,894 6,5
February 5,509 6,363 15,5
March 6,092 7,117 16,8
April 6,022 5,860 -2,7
May 5,635 5,422 -3,8
June 5,896 5,571 -5,5
July 4,760 4,760 -34,1
January til July 40,385 40,363 -0,1

Source: Turkish Union of Chambers of Commerce TOBB (http://www.tobb.org.tr)

"Tailored" state support for Investors

Despite a rising inflation (annual increase of consumer prices in late July 2016: 8.8%) since several months the Turkish Central Bank is lowering the interest rates in small steps and ensures an increasing liquidity. For investors the government is planning generous subsidies. In the words of economy minister Nihat Zeybekci the government investment promotion is standing before fundamental changes. The plan includes "unlimited, customized and project-based" facilitations for specific sectors, which will go far beyond current incentives.

In this context Zeybekci named metallurgy, petrochemical, pharmaceutical and medical technology, in addition the renewable energy and modern agricultural technologies. In addition to extensive tax breaks the planned state aids will also include subsidizing the salaries of highly skilled employees, a free allocation of land, subsidies of taxes and energy subsidies. With this especially international investors should be won and high technology projects should become supported.

Foreign direct investments slumped in the first half year of 2016

According to the Turkish Ministry of Economy foreign direct investment declined in the 1st half of 2016 compared with the same period of last year by 55%. In 2015 a net amount of USD 16.9 billion flowed into Turkey, and in 2014 approximately USD 12.5 billion. Of these USD 5.3 billion or resp. USD 4.2 billion were invested in real estate.

Foreign direct investment in Turkey without real estate (in USD million)
Sector 1.Halfyear 2015  1.Halfyear 2016  Change (in %)
Agriculture 5   24 380
Industry 2,710 866 -68
Mining 185 17 -91
Manufacturing  1,445 607 -58
Food, Beverages, Tobacco products 257 171 -33
Textile and Clothing 399 21 -95
Leather and leather goods 2 8 300
Wood and wooden products 0 1 -
Paper and paperproducts 4 20 400
Coke and refined petroleum products 500 11 -98
Chemical and pharmaceutical 
  products
69 136 97
Coutchouk and plastic products  21 54 157
Non metal  mineral products - 23 -
Metal and metal products 36 24 -33
Machines and machinery equipment 5 20 300
Electronic and optical products 46 98 113
Automotives 90 8 -91
Furniture 16 12 -25
Electricity, Gas 1,078 242 -78
Water, wastewater, waste-disposal 2 0 -100
Services  2,066 1,274 -38
Total  4,781 2,164 -55

Source: Turkish Ministry of Economy (Ekonomi Bakanligi, http://www.ekonomi.gov.tr)

State fund to finance infrastructure projects established

Of particular importance for the future financing of large infrastructure projects, especially in the transportation sector, is the law No. 6741 of  08  /19th / 2016, establishing the Turkey-Property Fund (Türkiye Varlik fonu - Sovereign Wealth Fund). The law, which was announced in the government Gazette No. 29813 on 08 / 26th /2016 regulates the structure and operational rules of the new fund, which originally was to be filled from the state budget and privatization proceeds and should have started with an initial capital of TL 50 million. The law provides the establishment of a stock corporation that will be responsible for investments, stakes and other commitments of the fund. The financial market operations of the fund are according to paragraph 8 of the law 6741largely exempt from taxes and fees.

From the new Turkey-Fund the government expects major funding contributions for ongoing and upcoming major projects. These include the third international airport in Istanbul and the planned "Canal Istanbul", which will run parallel to the Bosporus. Expected to the ideas of the government the fund should bring an annual contribution of 1.5 percentage points to the real GDP growth over the next ten years. Economy Minister Zeybekci expects through the fund in the long term an asset control of about USD 200 billion.

Debts to the State can be paid by installments

Companies that are under financial pressure should be relieved by the law no. 6736 for the restructuring of public demands from March 8th 2016. This came in force after the publication in the government Gazette no. 29806 of August 19th 2016. With this law firms and persons, which have debts at the tax office or at social security institutions, can get the possibility to settle their outstanding claims, including failure surcharges by installments within 18 months. On claims up to TL 50 (1 Euro = 3.31 TL) the state will entirely dispense. The redemption of debt from tourism enterprises, which are due in2016, will in accordance to the law shifted by one year.

The private retirement provision for all workers should increase the savings rate 

In order to increase the country's low savings rate, the Turkish government has adopted the law no. 6740 on August 10th 201616, which gets into force on January 1st 2017 (promulgated in the government Gazette No. 29812 on August 25th 2016). With this law, changing the law no. 4632 of March 28th 2001 about the voluntary private retirement provision all workers aged less than 45 years and of Turkish nationality will in the future "automatically" be included in the system of the private pensions system. Affected employees however have the right, within two months from the inclusion date to declare their abandonment and leave the system.

BREXIT: Italian economy relatively little affected © Bernd Kasper/ pixelio.de
09.08.2016

BREXIT: ITALIAN ECONOMY RELATIVELY LITTLE AFFECTED

  • Banking Crisis comes to a head
  • Foreign Trade rather little affected
  • Tourism Industry looks at the Development of the British Currency

Milan (GTAI) – According to a study by the rating agency S & P Italy is among the European countries that are least affected by the Brexit referendum. Nevertheless, the after the Brexit resulting market turmoil threatens to slow the fragile recovery of the Italian economy and to lead the already ailing banks in a crisis. The United Kingdom is the fourth most important export market for Italian goods; British tourists are a major source of income for the tourism.

  • Banking Crisis comes to a head
  • Foreign Trade rather little affected
  • Tourism Industry looks at the Development of the British Currency

Milan (GTAI) – According to a study by the rating agency S & P Italy is among the European countries that are least affected by the Brexit referendum. Nevertheless, the after the Brexit resulting market turmoil threatens to slow the fragile recovery of the Italian economy and to lead the already ailing banks in a crisis. The United Kingdom is the fourth most important export market for Italian goods; British tourists are a major source of income for the tourism.

The outcome of the British referendum threatens the delicate recovery of the Italian economy. The business association Confindustria has reduced its GDP growth forecast for 2016 from 1.4% to 0.8%. However, compared to other EU Member States and according to various studies, Italy is little affected directly of the intended withdrawal of the United Kingdom from the EU, but the indirect effects through the market turbulence could become serious.

In a study about the “Brexit sensitivity" of 20 countries made by the rating agency S & P Italy comes on the penultimate place, ahead of Austria. The study analyzes the Brexit effects in the fields of export, finance, foreign direct investments and migration. The reasons for Italy's position are obvious: Compared to other European countries, exports of Italy to the United Kingdom are relatively small. In addition, the financial sector is "relatively Italian". In a European comparison, foreign direct investments in Italy are low; this also concerns the share of investment from the United Kingdom in Italy.

According to the S & P study among the Italian economic areas the activities of the financial sector are the most affected by the Brexit. Volatile markets as a result of the Brexit provide further uncertainty in the sector, which, after the long economic crisis is suffering among other things in their balance sheets under bad loans. In the days after the event the share prices of the Italian banks plunged into the depths. The Italian Government is negotiating with the EU on a new bailout.

The UK is an important trading partner 

The decision of the British could have a negative impact on the Italian exports in various sectors. According to the Italian statistical office ISTAT the United Kingdom is ranked 6 of the trading partners in Italy. At the same time, the UK is the fourth largest market for Italian goods. The overall imports from the United Kingdom were EUR 10.6 billion in 2015, while the exports were significantly higher at EUR 22.5 billion. In 2015 the share of the total Italian exports amounted to 5.5%. The Italians sold more only in the United States (8.9%), France (10.5%) and Germany (12.6%).

The risks for the Italian exports may not be underestimated; experts expect a loss of Italian exports to the United Kingdom of EUR 1 to 3 billion. The losses concern primarily the processing industry. According to the study "Il Brexit e l'Italia" of the research institute Nomisma of June 2016, 97% of the Italian exports are finished goods. The most important product groups of Italian exports to the United Kingdom are machinery and equipment (EUR 3.5 billion), food and beverages (EUR 3.1 billion), chemical products (EUR 2.6 billion), Automotive and - parts (EUR 2.6 billion), fashion and clothing (EUR 2.3 billion) and processed and unprocessed metal products (EUR 1.5 billion).

Particularly dependent on British customers are the wineries and furniture designers. For the Italian wine sector the United Kingdom is one of the most important markets. In 2015 Italian wine producers were able to sell wine worth of EUR 745 million, accounting for a share of 14% of total Italian wine exports. The Italian furniture designers sold in 2015 products worth of EUR 950 million to the United Kingdom, what represents a share of 10% of total Italian furniture exports.

Northern Italy has close economic ties with the United Kingdom

According to the Nomisma study the Italian regions are different linked with the economy in the United Kingdom. More than two thirds of Italian exports to the United Kingdom are coming from northern Italy. Nevertheless, northern Italy is less affected by the Brexit than southern Italy, because the proportion of northern Italian exports to the United Kingdom of the total exports of northern Italy is markedly lower than in the south.

From the southern Italian region of Basilicata 15% of the exports go to the United Kingdom. The high rate is due to the Fiat factory in the municipality of Melfi, where two car models are being produced. From Abruzzo and Campania circa 10% of the regional exports are sold in the United Kingdom.

eyond the foreign trade the Italian restaurant and hotel operators are anxious about the impact of the Brexit: According to Banca D'Italia British tourists ranked on the 6th place of tourists and business travelers in 2015. However - the 4.4 million British visitors expended on average per capita significantly more per day than any other European travelers. Overall the expenditure of the British amounted to just over 3 billion euros in 2015 - or more than 8% of the total expenditure of foreign tourists in Italy. A devaluation of the British currency could affect adversely both the number of tourists as well as their expenditure per capita.

RUSSIAN GOVERNMENT SETS DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM UNTIL 2025 FOR THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY © Jerzy Sawluk / pixelio.de
28.06.2016

RUSSIAN GOVERNMENT SETS DEVELOPMENT PROGRAM UNTIL 2025 FOR THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY

  • Anticrisis Plan provides grants of nearly Ruble 1.5 Billion 

Moscow (GTAI) – In spring 2016 the Russian government has decided a "Strategy for the development of the light industry until 2025" and a "Federal program to support enterprises of the light industry" (anticrisis plan). Hence the Russian textile enterprises should be supported in the crisis. It is the aim of the Ministry of Industry and Trade to double the share of domestic producers on the clothing market from currently 25% to 50% in the year 2025.

  • Anticrisis Plan provides grants of nearly Ruble 1.5 Billion 

Moscow (GTAI) – In spring 2016 the Russian government has decided a "Strategy for the development of the light industry until 2025" and a "Federal program to support enterprises of the light industry" (anticrisis plan). Hence the Russian textile enterprises should be supported in the crisis. It is the aim of the Ministry of Industry and Trade to double the share of domestic producers on the clothing market from currently 25% to 50% in the year 2025.

According to the Ministry of Industry and Trade 14,000 companies (including 200 large enterprises) of the Russian light industry are producing clothing, textiles, footwear and leather goods. They generate annually a turnover of Ruble 270 billion. Of that 653 large and medium and 4,000 small businesses are operating in the yarn and textile industry. Because the purchasing power and consumer demand fell, the light industry slowed its production in 2015 by 12%.

To give the clothing and textile factories more security, the Russian government adopted in spring 2016 a "Strategy for the development of the light industry until 2025" and a "Federal program to support enterprises of the light industry" (anticrisis plan). It is the aim of the Ministry of Industry and Trade to double the share of domestic producers on the clothing market from currently 25% to 50% in the year 2025.  In this context up to 330,000 additional jobs should be achieved.

Anticrisis plan provides subsidies of Ruble 1.475 billion
In the anticrisis plan Ruble 1.475 billion will be granted. This should especially support manufacturers of school uniforms, children's apparel and textile factories that work on government orders. The financial support includes: subsidies for producers of school uniforms for the lower classes made out of Russian worsted fabrics (Ruble 600 million), subsidies for working capital loans to support purchases of raw materials (Ruble 800 million), subsidies for investment loans for technical modernization of enterprises (Ruble 75 million).

As part of the development program for the light industry an own development bank for the textile and clothing industry will be set up – following the example of the Rosselkhozbank. The hitherto in agriculture specialized state leasing company Rosagroleasing should accompany the technical modernization of the textile and clothing companies. In addition, the government ordinance no. 791 prohibits, as in  
the version of February, 17th 2016 on all three government levels (federal, regional, municipal), government procurement of imported textiles and garments when there are offers from domestic Producers.

Industrial parks and clusters for the light industry are growing
In addition, two industrial parks for the clothing and textile industry will be set up in the areas of Ivanovo and St. Petersburg. In addition, a regional cluster of the light industry in the Chelyabinsk region of the South Ural is growing. The fund for the development of the Russian industry promotes investments with low interest rates on credits, for example the project of Praimteks (Primetex) in the Ivanovo region for the production of textiles using digital textile printing (credit: Rubles 466 million rubles).

Further, the domestic producers of clothing and footwear should gain access in future to the funding instruments of the federal association for the development of small and medium-sized enterprises. Critics complain, that the subsidies reach mostly large companies only and above all companies working with government contracts.

Capacity building for chemical fibers 
Export opportunities are seen by the Ministry of Industry in synthetic fibers. In the textile cluster Ivanovo (http://invest-ivanovo.ru/data/prog.pdf) a chemical fiber plant is growing with public aid, scheduled to begin production from 2018. With that 250,000 t chemical fibers would additionally annually be available. Until now both manufac-turers Komitex and Wladimirski Polyefir produce together 33,000 t chemical fibers per anno. Viscose is currently not being produced at all in Russia. The import share of polyester is 74%, of polyamide 88%. 

In future the synthetic fibers may be supplied to BTK Textile and other customers. The production complex of BTK Textile in the textile City Shakhty in the Rostov region, was inaugurated in June 2015. The company manufactures high-tech textiles and knitwear made out of synthetic fibers of which work-wear, sport-wear and ski-wear are being sewn. BTK Textile has fabric production capacities of about 12 million square meters per year, General Director Sergey Bazoev says. Up to now BTK Textile has to buy the synthetic fibers and yarns predominantly in Asia. That could change soon. The BTK Group is the largest Russian manufacturer of men's clothing and uniforms.

Building new production facilities in Russia is not so easy: equipment of domestic manufacturing is not available and imported technology became very expensive due to the Ruble devaluation. So the technical facilities of BKT for manufacturing, impregnation or coating of fabrics and for apparel sewing (in total 250 units) are coming from Italy, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland and France. Long-term loans of over 8 to 12 years are not available and if - only at high interest rates. The lack of a variety of technologies and materials (establishing of extensive fabric and accessories inventories is too expensive) remains the main problem for Russian textile companies. Therefore, the number of new projects in the light industry is not yet clear.
Russian Federation - production of textiles and clothing (change in %)
Description 2015 Change 2015/2014
Cotton fiber (mio. bales) 111.0 4.4
Chemical fibers (mio. bales) 66.0 -4.5
Fabrics (mio. sqm) 4,542 14.7
.thereof from: :    
.Silk (1,000 sqm) 253,0 31.8
.Wool (1,000 sqm) 9.262,0 -20.9
.Linen 25,9 -26,6
.Cotton 1.176,0 -4,5
.Chemical fibers 237,0 14,2
Fabrics made out of other materials 3.084,0 25,1
Fabrics with plastic impregnation (mio. sqm) 32,3 14,6
Bed-linen (mio. pieces) 59,8 -9,6
Carpets (mio. sqm) 22,6 -3,7
Knitwear (1,000 t) 14,2 29,8
Stockings (mio. pair) 199 -5,6
Coats (1,000 pieces) 989 -22,1
Lined jackets (1,000 pieces) 1.887 -45,4
Suits (1,000 pieces) 4.690 -12,6
Men’s jackets and blazer (1,000 pieces) 870 14,1
Women’s coats with fur collar (pieces) 5.543 -46,1
Clothing made out of artificial fur (1,000 pieces) 24,5 21,0
Uniforms and workwear (mio. pieces) 20,7 -8,2
Work- and protective clothing (mio. pieces) 99,8 14,6
Overalls (1,000 pieces) 733 -62,4

Source: Rosstat 2016

Russian Federation - production of textiles and clothing (change in %)
Description 1st Quarter 2016 Change
1st Quarter 2016 / 1st Quarter 2015
Sewing thread made out of synthetic fibers (mio. reels)   14,0 -0,6
Fabrics (mio sqm) 1,2 23,3
Bed linen (mio pieces) 14,7 -7,7
Knitted stockings (mio. pairs) 55,4 34,0
Knitwear (mio. pieces) 24,8 -6,0
Workwear, uniforms (mio. pieces) 31,1 11,2
Coats (1,000 pieces) 269 9,1

Source: Rosstat 2016


Contact addresses:
Ministry of Industry and Trade

Department of Light Industry
Denis Klimentewitsch Pak, Director of the Department
109074 Moskau, Kitajgorodskij proesd 7
Tel.: 007 495/632 8004 (Sekretariat), Fax: -632 88 65
E-Mail: dgrvt@minprom.gov.ru, Internet: http://minpromtorg.gov.ru

(Sub) department of Light Industry: Director: Irina Alekseewna Iwanowa,
Tel.: -632 87 31, -346 04 73; E-Mail: ivanovaia@minprom.gov.ru
Internet: http://minpromtorg.gov.ru/ministry/dep/#!9&click_tab_vp_ind=1
"Strategy for the development of Light Industry until 2025."
http://www.kptf.ru/images/company/Presentation.pdf (Presentation of the strategy)
http://minpromtorg.gov.ru/docs/#!strategiya_razvitiya_legkoy_promyshlennosti_rossii_na_period_do_2025_goda (Text of the strategy and action plan)

Russian Union of Entrepreneurs of Textile and Light Industry
107023 Moskau, uliza Malaja Semenowskaja 3
Tel.: 007 495/280 15 48, Fax: -280 10 85
E-Mail: info@souzlegprom.ru, Internet: http://www.souzlegprom.ru

 

PAKISTAN’S TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY HAS TO INVEST © Jerzy Sawluk / pixelio.de
07.06.2016

PAKISTAN’S TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY HAS TO INVEST

  • INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION INCREASES
  • COMPANIES HAVE TO MODERNIZE PRODUCTION AND INCREASE DEPTH OF PROCESSING

Dubai / Islamabad (GTAI) - Pakistan's textile and clothing industry has urgently to invest. The international competition has intensified. The companies need to modernize their technology and increase their processing depth. The country wants to get away from the production of simple fabrics and yarns. The GSP Plus agreement with the EU and an improvement in the security situation have improved the investment climate. In high-end machines Pakistan is dependent on imports. 

  • INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION INCREASES
  • COMPANIES HAVE TO MODERNIZE PRODUCTION AND INCREASE DEPTH OF PROCESSING

Dubai / Islamabad (GTAI) - Pakistan's textile and clothing industry has urgently to invest. The international competition has intensified. The companies need to modernize their technology and increase their processing depth. The country wants to get away from the production of simple fabrics and yarns. The GSP Plus agreement with the EU and an improvement in the security situation have improved the investment climate. In high-end machines Pakistan is dependent on imports. 

Pakistan's textile and clothing industry expects better sales opportunities abroad in the next few years, particularly with the European Union. Early 2014 Pakistan has received from the EU the GSP Plus status (Generalized System of Preferences) that allows the country to supply goods at a lower rate of duty or even with a completely duty exempt in the EU. Particularly the textile and clothing industry benefits from the agreement, as the sector provides almost 80% of Pakistan's exports to the EU. The government even hopes on additional exports for the sector worth USD 1 billion per year.

Following the latest available trade figures, Pakistan increased in 2014, the year in which the GSP Plus agreement came into force, its total exports of clothing by almost 10% to around USD 5 billion. Official figures of exports to the EU are not available. According to the foreign trade statistics, in any case exports to Germany have increased in clothing by 13% to almost USD 500 million, in textiles by 18% to USD 434 million and in footwear by 27% to USD 34 million.

Pakistan's export of textiles, clothing and footwear (USD million)
SITC Productgroup 2013 2014 Change 2014/2013
Export        
65 Textiles 9,341 9.077 -2,8
84 Clothing 4,549 4.991 9,7
85 Shoes 109 132 21,1
26 Textile Fibres 370 308 -16,8
..2631 Cotton 217 181 -16,7
Import        
65 Textiles 1,245 1.545 24,2
84 Clothing 68 86 26,0
85 Shoes 67 84 25,2
26 Textile Fibres 1,369 1.287 -6,0

Source: UN Comtrade

Demand for textile machinery rises
Market observers anticipate increased investments in machinery. A particular dynamic effort is expected in the demand for textile printing machines, dyeing machines, tenter frames and other finishing techniques. Positive for the investment climate will be the effect of the expected increase in textile exports to the EU and the improvement of the security situation. In recent years power shortages and a precarious security situation have inhibited the production and investment activity.

The market for textile machinery (SITC 724) grew significantly since 2014. In the country itself only relatively simple machines are being manufactured. High-end equipment is mostly imported. The import of textile machinery rose to USD 585 million in 2014, an increase of 17% compared to 2013.

Import of Textilmaschinen*)
Year Value (in Mio. US$)
2014 585
2013 498
2012 439
2011 488
2010 455
2009 217
2008 385

*) SITC 724, including pieces
Source: UN Comtrade

German machinery manufacturers are losing market share
The PR China has superseded Japan as the major supplier of textile machinery in 2014. In fact Japan was able to increase its deliveries vigorously (+ 23%), but the Chinese succeeded to get even higher gains (+ 41%). The suppliers from Switzerland and India have also increased their exports to Pakistan significantly. German machinery manufacturers however were not able to benefit from the increasing demand.
Import of textile machinery by main supplier countries (in USD million, change over previous year and supply share in %) *)
Land   2014 Veränderung 2014/2013 Anteil
VR China 145 40.7 24.8
Japan 139 22.6 23.7
Schweiz 75 55.2 12.8
Deutschland 71 -24.9 12.1
Italien 50 9.3 8.6
Indien 15 28.0 2.6
Gesamt 585 17.5 100

*) SITC 724, including pieces

Investments urgently needed
Competition from PR China, Bangladesh, India and Sri Lanka has intensified. Pakistan's textile industry needs to modernize and upgrade, to increase its productivity and the added value. Pakistan covers the entire value chain from fiber preparation from to the end product. Despite this well-position predominantly simple products are being produced. Only an estimated 40 companies are vertically integrated and cover the entire textile processing.
With an annual harvest of about 13 million bales Pakistan is the world's fourth largest cotton producer. In addition about 600.000 tons of synthetic fibers are being manufactured in the country. According to reports there are 21 manufacturers of filament yarn with a capacity of 100.000 t; the production is supported by a PTA plant with a capacity of 500.000 t.

Export of the textile industry by product group 07-01-2014 – 31-03-2015 (Changes compared to the same period of last year and in %)
Product Value (in Mio. US$) Change Share
Knitwear 1,792 7.5 18
Readymade Garment 1,548 8.5 15
Bed Wear 1,570 -2.4 15
Towels 580 1.8 6
Tent, Canvas, Tarpaulin 105 82.0 1
Made-ups (Other Textiles) 486 -0.5 5
Cotton Cloth 1,860 -26.5 18
Cotton Yarn 1,461 2.0 14
Raw Cotton 142 -9.4 1
Art-Silk& Synthetic Textile 274 -17.0 3
Other Textile Products 350 0.0 4
Summe 10,168 -1.6 100

Sources: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics; TMA - Towel Manufacturers Association

Yarn production has lost competitiveness
According to sector experts In the past decade yarn manufacturers made no larger investments to upgrade their production, although money would have been available for such investments.  The reason for that should have been the heavy competition from China, India and Bangladesch.  Ten years ago Pakistan used to be one of the most efficient yarn manufacturers worldwide. Because modernization investments failed to materialize, this technique applies as outdated in Pakistan today.

The companies complain about high production costs and are demanding more favorable electricity tariffs and protectionist measures against import competition. A negative effect on the production and the investment climate in the country also have the electricity shortages and the tense security Situation.

The textile sector in Pakistan is characterized by numerous large textile companies with quite a large number of small businesses opposite which mostly belong to the so-called informal sector. The informal sector, for example, includes small family companies or small productions, which are not taxable. The informal sector produces mainly simple products for the domestic market. It works with discarded equipment of the larger companies, imported used machinery or cheap equipment from China. The official statistics do not take the informal sector into account.

Import of textile machinery by product and top supplier countries (in USD thousands, change compared to the previous year in%)
SITC Productgroup 2013 2014 Veränd.
724.3 Sewing machines, from 18.508 31.034 67,7
  PR China 9.795 19.925 103,4
  Japan 2.596 3.694 42,3
  Vietnam 479 911 90,3
  Germany (Rank 5) 856 750 -12,4
724.4 Spinning and other machines for textile processing, from 255.311 258.348 1,2
  Japan 74.961 61.771 -17,6
  Switzerland 36.203 57.814 59,7
  Germany (Rank 3) 64.086 46.545 -27,4
724.5 Weaving machines, from 121.860 179.424 47,2
  Japan 29.997 68.090 127,0
  PR China 31.305 53.706 71,6
  Italy 6.666 11.275 69,1
  Germany (Rank 6) 5.290 6.097 15,2
724.6 Auxiliary machines, from 30.953 36.801 18,9
  PR China 8.797 11.935 35,7
  Germany (Rank 2) 6.429 4.880 -24,1
  Japan 2.055 3.614 75,9
724.7 Machines for dying, washing, drying, from 61.620 64.825 5,2
  PR China 9.855 12.455 26,4
  Italy 14.867 11.527 -22,5
   Germany (Rank 3) 16.652 11.494 -31,0
724.8 Machines for leather processing and footwear manufacturing, incl. parts, from 5.854 8.722 49,0
  Italy 3.674 4.985 35,7
  PR China 1.542 2.338 51,6
  Finland k.A 192 k.A.
  Germany (Rank 5) 29 140 381,6
724.9 Parts for textile machines, from 3.996 5.760 44,2
  PR China 2.107 2.854 35,5
  Germany (Rank 2) 617 669 8,4
  Italy 528 661 25,3
CRISIS HITS RUSSIAN FASHION MARKET HARD © derProjektor / pixelio.de
24.05.2016

CRISIS HITS RUSSIAN FASHION MARKET HARD

  • Sales decreases
  • Middle Price Segments affected most
  • Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency.

  • Sales decreases
  • Middle Price Segments affected most
  • Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency. For the textile and clothing industry, the Ruble devaluation means a fundamental change in the general framework: more expensive imports, lower personnel costs in Russia and rising export opportunities.
 
Customers change from the middle to the lower price segment
In addition, the real income of the Russian population declines and thus the purchasing power. Russian customers buy less clothing and watch more and more the price. Sales shrink at the most in the medium price segment. Many customers orientate themselves on low-price segments (mass market), which will increase in 2016 by 5 to10% to a share of 65 to 70%, the Fashion Consulting Group predicts. The proportion of the premium and luxury segment remains unchanged.
An average Russian household has cut its spending on clothing and home textiles by 30 to 50%, experts estimate. Especially the suppliers of imported textiles and clothing got to feel this, their prices had to be increased most, what damaged the business of foreign brand suppliers. In 2015 the Russian imports of textiles and clothing fell by 25%. This tendency continues in 2016.
    
Distribution networks in the stationary trade become thinned 
Because of the price pressure manufacturers and retailers in the fashion market shorten their staff, negotiate discounts for the shop rental, reduce the collections, simplify cuts and save on quality. While many Russian brands used to buy their materials in the EU and in Turkey, designers and producers now can only afford cheap synthetic fabrics from China. The advertising budgets were slashed in 2015 by 40 to 45%. Moreover clothing suppliers react by closing stores and concentrate on most profitable locations. Since 2014 more than eleven international brands have left the Russian market. These include Gerry Weber from the middle price segment, Laura Ashley, Chevignon and Seppälä; from the mass market segment Esprit, New Look, OVS, River Iceland and Wendys.  
 
Marks & Spencer closed 3% of its stores, Mango 7%, Gloria Jeans 12%. The largest drop in the number of stores are reported from the brands Vis-a-Vis (-65%), Motivi (-40%), Savage (-29%) and Incity (-17%). Maratex closed its franchise stores for clothing brands like Esprit, New Look, OVS and River Iceland 2015 in Russia. The Finnish Stockmann sold its seven department stores in Russia for EUR 5 million to Reviva Holdings Ltd. (owner of the franchise store chain Debenhams) and gave up the business of its brands Lindex and Seppälä.
 
Adidas has closed 2015 167 of its 1,100 shops in Russia, planned are 200. The German sportswear manufacturer acquired 2015 the central warehouse Chekhov-2 with an area of 120,000 square meters in the Moscow region. The purchase price is supposed at a total between USD 70 and 100 million. The Finnish Kesko informed in February 2016 that it wants to sell the Russian Intersport chain because of poor financial results.

The retail chain Modny continent (brands: Incity, Deseo) reduced the number of its stores by 35. At the end of the first quarter of 2016 they still owned 301 stores. The Melon Fashion Group disposed in 2015 27 unprofitable stores, for this they opened 37 new ones. Melon owned December 31st 604 stores throughout Russia (befree 234, Zarina 203, Love Republic 167), of which 134 are franchise stores (befree 56, Zarina 44, Love Republic 34). A new concept of the stores - larger retail space and more modern design – should help against the crisis.
The Spanish designer brand Desigual closed its Russian stores end of September 2015, but they remain on the market in multibrand stores. A similar course is followed by other brands. 

Eleven fashion brands enter the Russian market in the first half year of  2016
A small gleam of hope: Eleven fashion brands announced to enter the Russian market in the first half year of 2016. This happened already at the end of 2015 with budget brands like Cortefiel, Superdry and Violetta by Mango. H & M, Monki, Uniqlo and Forever 21 want to continue to expand in Russia.
Already in 2015 the number of H & M stores grew in Russia by 35% to 96 stores. On April 28th 2016 the menswear house Henderson opened a new salon in the shopping center "Zelenopark" in Zelenograd near Moscow. With this Henderson (brands: Henderson, Hayas) is now represented in 164 major shopping centers in 56 Russian cities. Hugo Boss inaugurated on April 8th 2016 a new shop in the Outlet Village Pulkovo.

The vertically integrated chain Gloria Jeans has changed it’s headquarter at the beginning of 2016 from Rostov-on-Don to Moscow and rented there 3,500 square meters in the Arma plant. Until the end of 2016 Gloria Jeans plans to extend on 5,000 square meters and further to 10,000 square meters until 2017. The capital should serve as a gateway to the world market: Gloria Jeans plans to open an office in Hong Kong. The company has eight regional offices and two large logistics complexes in Novosibirsk and Novoshakhtinsk.

International brands, planning to enter the Russian market in first half of 2016
Nr. Brand Country Profile Shopping mall Price segment
1 Demurya     France/Russia Clothing Smolenskij Passash Premium
2 John Varvatos USA Clothing Crocus City Mall Premium
3 Il Gufo Italy Clothing for children ZUM Premium
4 Barbour United Kingdom Clothing GUM upper middle
5 Armani Exchange Italy Clothing Mega, Aviapark middle
6 Veta Estland Clothing Streetretail, Kamenoostrowskij middle
7 Love Stories Netherlands Underwear Einkaufszentrum "Modny Seson" middle
8 Victorias Secret Pink USA Underwear, clothing Evropejskij middle
9 Hunkemöller Germany Underwear Mega middle
10 Undiz France Underwear Mega lower
11 Aigle France Clothing, shoes Street retail, Olimpijskij pr-t middle

Source: Retail.ru

Online sale with clothing is growing – Chinese suppliers are expanding
In contrast to the declining sales in the stationary apparel trade, the demand in outlets and on the Internet is rising. The number of visits and the average amount of receipts at the Fashion House Outlet Centre Moscow has risen by two times since July 2013, director Brendon O'Reily reports. The Fashion House Group offers online shopping since 2016.

The association of Internet trading companies (http://www.akit.ru) estimates that sales on the Internet in 2015 were Rubles 760 billion (+ 7%). The share of clothing and footwear was 35 %. Already in 2014 the online trade had grown by a third. Online stores are operated by KupiVIP, Lamoda and Finn Flare. Alone at KupiVIP the number of orders increased by 45% to a volume of Rubles 16.5 billion in 2015.

Manufacturers and distributors therefor boost the online trade. The government wants to promote the export of Russian goods and is planning a large Internet trading platform. Models are Alibaba (China) and JD.com. However Russian customers are buying increasingly from Asian webshops. Only in 2014 the popularity of online orders in China increased threefold.

Contac addresses
Fashion Consulting Group
(Consulting, Marketing, PR)
125009 Moskau, Maly Gnezdnikowskij pereulok 4
Tel.: 007 495/629 74 25, -629 76 23
E-Mail: info@fashionconsulting.ru, Internet: http://www.fashionconsulting.ru

Russian Buyers Union
119034 Moskau, ul. Prechistenka 40/2, Gebäude 3, Büro 110
Tel.: 007 499/350 51 40
E-Mail: info@buyersunion.ru, relations@buyersunion.ru
Internet: http://www.buyersunion.ru

 

BEKLEIDUNGSHERSTELLER VERLAGERN PRODUKTION NACH RUSSLAND © Florentine/ pixelio.de
17.05.2016

CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS MOVING PRODUCTION TO RUSSIA

  • Weak Ruble makes domestic Production profitable
  • Government encourages Investments

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of textiles and clothing will continue to decline. Production in Russia however will rise. Due to the strong Ruble devaluation in the last two years, the conditions for the textile and clothing industry have completely changed. On the one hand falling real incomes lead to declining demand. On the other hand labor costs have fallen under Asian benchmarks.

  • Weak Ruble makes domestic Production profitable
  • Government encourages Investments

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of textiles and clothing will continue to decline. Production in Russia however will rise. Due to the strong Ruble devaluation in the last two years, the conditions for the textile and clothing industry have completely changed. On the one hand falling real incomes lead to declining demand. On the other hand labor costs have fallen under Asian benchmarks.

Due to the low Ruble exchange rate it has become cheaper in 2015 for domestic and foreign textile and clothing companies to produce in Russia. Translated into US dollars, labor costs are currently due to the Ruble devaluation 10 to 15% below the reference value in the PRC. The average wage of a worker in the garment industry in China is currently USD 300 to 350, in Russian Rubles 12,000 to 15,000 (USD 185-230).
 
Relocation to Russia begins
According to a report of the newspaper "Izvestia" the first domestic and foreign clothing manufacturers of branded products have reacted and shift their production capacity from Asia to Russia or have subcontract Russian garment manufacturers.  These include companies like Roztech (brands: Dikaja Orchideja, Bjustje, Defile, Grand Defile), Sportmaster, Melon Fashion Group (befree, Zarina, Love Republic), Finn Flare and Kira Plastinina.

"A few years ago we produced 20 to 30% of our collection in Russia, last year 2015 there were already 30 to 40% and now already about 70%", the commercial director of "Kira Plastinina Style" Vladimir Romanov reported. For that the company has established its own production in an industrial park in Osery close to Moscow.

Other brand manufacturers and retailers like Zara (Inditex), Sela, Baon, Gloria Jeans, Modis, Lamoda, Lady & Gentleman, kangaroo and Sneschnaja Korolewa are looking for opportunities to relocate their production to Russia. The Ministry of Industry and Trade is in intensive discussions with Zara, H & M, Benetton, Dekatlon, Sportmaster and IKEA (home textiles) in order to convince them of the advantages of production in Russia. In future IKEA wants to get up to 40% of its products produced by Russian firms.

Roztech plans to double its production of women's underwear to up to 8 million units. Currently two sites are rented for that in the Smolensk region. For repairs and preparations for production in the rented plants Roztech will invest about  Rubles 60 million. Two other sewing factories in the area of Moscow and Smolensk are already working for Roztech. Contract productions in the PRC and in the Baltic States the company will be terminated because of this.

The franchise chain Finn Flare (Finland) has rented a factory with 500 square meters close to Moscow early 2016, renovated it and installed new equipment. For that Rubles 12 million were invested, General Director Ksenija Rjasowa said. The sewing factory is scheduled to start in May and will produce 40,000 to 60,000 pieces clothing per year. Beginning of 2016 Finn Flare possessed 143 Russian stores (54 franchised).
 
Manufacturers of sportswear increase their share of production in Russia
Since the outbreak of the Ruble crisis Sportmaster has begun to place a portion of its contracts with Russian companies. Currently 15% of the clothing and footwear is coming from Russian production. The retail chain operates shops with the brands Sportmaster - 460, Ostin - 760 and Funday - 60.

The MMD group "Vostok i Zapad", which belongs to the group of the companies Bosco di Ciliegi, intends to set up an own factory for the production of sportswear in the industrial park "Kameshkovo" in the Vladimir region. The necessary investment will amount to Rubles 1 billion, of which Rubles 200 million are own funds and about Rubles 400 million will be requested from the fund for the development of mono towns. 

Even Pierre Cardin is talking with major Russian garment manufacturers about licensed productions, designer Rodrigo Basilikati said in March 2016. So far the fashion house is based on ten own stores and licensees from Germany, Italy and the USA.

So far most sewing orders placed in China. In future one has to expect more companies and  offers from Vietnam, Bangladesh, India, Malaysia and Indonesia. The Eurasian Economic Union and Vietnam have agreed upon a free trade agreement.
 
Import dependence on fabrics and accessories as cost risk
By manufacturing in Russia the exchange rate risk and transport costs do not apply.  But one cost risk remains: For sewing of clothes in Russia  not all fabrics and materials can be sourced domestically, but need to be purchased at 65% abroad. The technical equipment needs to be imported at 100%. In the foreseeable future this remains a cost risk, depending mainly on the development of the further exchange rates.

The main suppliers of fibers, fabrics, yarn, buttons and accessories were previously the PRC and Turkey. However - since the deterioration of the state relation with Turkey Russia is working intensively to get gradually rid of this delivery dependence.
 
Anti-crisis and development program for the light industry
In the Russian light industry 14,000 companies are manufacturing clothing, textiles, footwear and leather goods. Thereof 653 large and medium and 4,000 small businesses operate in the yarn and textile industry. To give the clothing and textile factories more planning certainty, the Russian Government decided in spring 2016 a "Strategy for the development of the light industry until 2025" and a "Federal program to support  the enterprises of the light industry" (anticrisis plan).

Russian Confederation:  Production of textiles and clothing (Change in %)
Description of goods 2015 Change 2015/2014
Cotton fiber  (mio. bales) 111.0 4.4
Man-made fiber (mio roles) 66.0 -4.5
Fabrics  (mio. sqm) 4.542 14.7
thereof:    
Natural Silk (1.000 sqm) 253.0 31.8
Wool (1.000 qm) 9,262.0 -20.9
Linen 25.9 -26.6
Cotton 1,176.0 -4.5
Man-made fiber 237.0 14.2
Fabrics made of other  materials 3,084.0 25.1
Fabrics with plastic impregnations (mio. sqm) 32.3 14.6
Bed linen (mio. sets) 59.8

-9.6

Carpets (mio. sqm) 22.6 -3.7
Knitwear (1.000 t) 14.2 29.8
Hosery (Mio. Pair) 199 -5.6
Coats (1.000 pc.) 989 -22.1
Lined jackets (1.000 pc.) 1,887 -45.4
Suits (1.000 pc.) 4,690 -12.6
Mens jackets and blazer (1.000 pc.) 870 14.1
Ladies coats with fur collar  (pc.) 5,543 -46.1
Clothing made out of artificial fur (1.000 pc.) 24.5

21.0

Uniforms and workwear (mio. pc.) 20.7 -8.2
Work – and protective wear (mio. pc.) 99.8 14.6
Overalls (1.000 pc.) 733 -62.4

Source: Rosstat 2016

Russian Confederation: - Production of textiles and clothing (% Change)
Description of goods 1st Quarter 2016 1st Quarter 2016 / 1st Quarter 2015
Sewing threads- made out of synthetic fiber (mio. rolles) 14.0 -0.6
Fabrics (billion sqm) 1.2 23.2
Bed linen (mio sets) 14.1 -7.7
Knitted stockings (mio. pairs) 55.4 34.0
Knitwear (mio. pc.) 24.8 -6.0
Workwear  Uniforms (mio. pc.) 31.1 11.2
Coats (1.000 pc. ) 269 9.1

Source: Rosstat 2016

Contact addresses
Russian Union of Entrepreneurs of  the Textile and Light Industry
107023 Moskau, uliza Malaja Semenowskaja 3
Tel.: 007 495/280 15 48, Fax: -280 10 85
E-Mail: info@souzlegprom.ru, Internet: http://www.souzlegprom.ru

Ministry of Industry and Trade
Department of Light Industry
Denis Klimentewitsch Pak, Director of the Department
109074 Moskau, Kitajgorodskij proesd 7
Tel.: 007 495/632 8004 (Sekretariat), Fax: -632 88 65
E-Mail: dgrvt@minprom.gov.ru, Internet: http://minpromtorg.gov.ru

Light industry department:
Director: Irina Ivanova Alekseewna,
Tel.: -632 87 31, -346 04 73; E-Mail: ivanovaia@minprom.gov.ru
Internet: http://minpromtorg.gov.ru/ministry/dep/#!9&click_tab_vp_ind=1

"Strategie für die Entwicklung der Leichtindustrie bis zum Jahr 2025"
http://www.kptf.ru/images/company/Presentation.pdf (Präsentation zur Strategie)
http://minpromtorg.gov.ru/docs/#!strategiya_razvitiya_legkoy_promyshlennosti_rossii_na_period_do_2025_goda (text of the strategy and action plan)

 

Sales of Apparel are rising in Poland - despite Price Pressure © Hardy5 / pixelio.de
03.05.2016

SALES OF APPAREL ARE RISING IN POLAND - DESPITE PRICE PRESSURE

  • Import from Germany growing / Domestic Chains expanding

Warsaw (GTAI) - The outlook for sales of clothing and footwear in Poland is favorable. Domestic chains such as LPP, Bytom, Vistula and Monnari are opening additional stores. In 2016 the shoe chain CCC is investing around EUR 33 mio in new sales areas, including in Germany. The western neighboring country is by far the biggest buyer of clothing from Poland. Increasingly popular too is fashion from Germany, which occupies the third place among supplying countries.

  • Import from Germany growing / Domestic Chains expanding

Warsaw (GTAI) - The outlook for sales of clothing and footwear in Poland is favorable. Domestic chains such as LPP, Bytom, Vistula and Monnari are opening additional stores. In 2016 the shoe chain CCC is investing around EUR 33 mio in new sales areas, including in Germany. The western neighboring country is by far the biggest buyer of clothing from Poland. Increasingly popular too is fashion from Germany, which occupies the third place among supplying countries.

In Poland the demand for clothing and footwear is steadily growing. The market research firm PMR (http://www.pmrpublications.com) expects in 2016 sales worth of Zloty 35.3 billion (approximately EUR 8.2 billion, 1 Euro = 4.3283 Zl, as of April 22nd  2016). The price war however is very tough due to the higher US dollar exchange rate, the dealers can hardly pass their higher costs on to the customers. This concerns mainly imported commodity goods from the Far East, while the outlook for the upscale segment outfitters is better.

Value of sales of clothing and footwear (in PLN billion)
2012 2013 2014 20151) 20162) 20172)
28.7 28.9 31.8 33.4 35.3 37.1

1) Estimation, 2) Forecast
Source: market research company PMR

The company for classic clothing Bytom (http://www.bytom.com.pl, from the same city (Bytom – Beuthen)) that serves the upper segment, wants to create an offer for the masses. It lowered its prices in March 2016. In order to reach more customers, it plans to increase its sales area of from 10,300 square meters in spring 2016 to 15,000 square meters by the end of 2018. The number of its stores should simultaneously rise from 97 to 120.

Bythom will avoid quality losses through savings in the purchasing of clothing. According to Michal Wojcik, chairman of the company, negotiations with representatives of procurement markets are on the way. In 2019 the retail sales of Bytom should reach around 250 million PLN, double as much as in 2015 (123 million PLN). The company will serve the middle segment between large markets with  
mass-production goods and expensive boutiques with domestic and foreign luxury brands.

The two great rivals Bytom and Vistula (http://vistula.pl) from Krakow (Krakau) are receiving increasing competition by smaller companies. Vistula was able to win in 2016 the soccer star Robert Lewandowski for promotional activities, he will appear in suits of the company.

The stockbroker office of the Bank BZ WBK believes in good opportunities of the smaller chain Monnari  (http://www.emonnari.pl), which could double its sales area until 2019. With the proliferation of the growing clothing and footwear chains a consolidation of the retail structure goes along, and the total numbers of stores will overall decrease.

The chains Vistula, Bytom and Monnari are expanding domestically only, where they expand their retail spaces annually by 10 to 25%. Since only one third of the by Vistula and Bytom sold collections are being settled on a USD basis, they are not hurt as much by the strong upvaluation of the US currency as LPP, the manufacturer of mass-products. This company buys almost its entire collection in the  
Far East in US currency. In the case of the footwear chain CCC, the proportion is 40 to 50%.

Number of shops for clothing and footwear
  2010 2011 2012 2013 2014
Clothing 32,100 30,700 29,400 28,700 28,400
Shoes  

7,610

7,464 7,215 7,029 6,86

Source: Bisnode

CCC strives towards west

The retail chain CCC (http://ccc.eu), which is also represented abroad including in Germany and Austria, has acquired for more than ZL 200 million the online shop for shoes eobuwie.pl (http://www.eobuwie.pl). By 2016 a further strong expansion is planned, for which it wants to raise about PLN 140 million. The sales area should become 27% net bigger with at least 100,000 square meters. This was announced by the deputy chairman of CCC, Mr. Piotr Nowjalis.

The majority of the new area (77,000 square meters) is planned abroad, where 110 stores should be opened. In the focus here are Germany, Austria and Romania. Domestically CCC is planning a new sales area of 23000 square meters for 40 stores. These plans represent an acceleration compared to 2015, when the total sales area had increased by 66,000 square meters net (+ 22%). At the end of 2015 there were at home and abroad 773 CCC stores with a total of 372,000 square meters. 

Forecasts for and results of apparel and footwear chains (in PLN million)
Company Revenues 2015 Revenues 2016 *)   Net income 2015   Net income 2016 *)
LPP 5,130 6,062 352 510
CCC 2,407 3,043 237 271
Vistula 517 565 31.5 38.5
Monnari 214 258 35.5 34.5
Bytom 131 160 13.3 16.1
CDRL 183 201 14.2 14.9
Gino Rossi 278 301 6.7 10.0
Wojas 220 240 6.3 8.4

*) Forecast of the press agency Bloomberg, February 2016
Source: Newspaper Rzeczpospolita

According to a forecast of Bloomberg, the most important apparel and footwear companies will improve their results in 2016. Leader LPP supplies with its brands Reserved, Mohito, Cropp, House and Sinsay a wide audience. To the upscale segment belongs the new brand Tallinder, which is being offered since February 2016 in a first store in Gdansk (Danzig). Beginning in 2019 there should be 30 sales stores for the brand Tallinder, which then will compete with Vistula, Bytom and Prochnik.   

Market shares of classic man’s wear 2014 (in %)
Vistula und Wolczanka Bytom  Prochnik  Übrige
30 14 6 50

Source: Newspaper Rzeczpospolita

In 2016 LPP wants to increase its retail space at home and abroad by 11 to 13%, that is about 90,000 square meters. End of the year thus 1,716 shops could belong to the company. To date, 23% of the sales area of LPP is in the Russian Federation and Ukraine. The profits there were again impacted by the devaluation of the local currencies against the Zloty.

Foreign trade increases

The Polish imports of clothing exceed the exports. Especially Asian countries could increase their deliveries in 2014, but also Germany belongs to the leading suppliers and attained growth. Among the importing countries Germany plays by far the most important role. The followers are the Netherlands, Czech Republic, Austria, Sweden and other, mostly European countries.

Foreign trade with clothing from woven fabrics (in PLN mio)
Custom tariff 6201 bis 6209 2012 2013 2014
Import, including 5,251.0 5,392.4 6,910.0
PR China 2,319.4 2,115.3 2,532.3
Bangladesch   666.6 758.4 1,019.2
Germany 278.8 522.1 607.7
Turkey  333.0 290.6 404.3
India 264.5 258.8 329.9
Export, including   5,416.9 5,895.4 6,830.1
Germany 2,628.9 2,997.3 3,677.7

Source: Central Statistical Office GUS

Although Poland supplies clothing to Germany at a large extent, it is not easy for the companies to settle in the western neighboring country with own shops and their own brands. LPP opened its first store in Germany in September 2014, in spring of 2016 there were already twelve. In three years there should be 30 stores. In 2015 the German LPP stores generated approximately 94 million PLN, but probably without profit because of investment costs and advertising.

Foreign trade of knitted and crocheted clothing (in PLN mio)
Zolltarifposition 6101 bis 6114 2012 2013 2014
Import, including 4,990.3 5,191.6 6,748.2
PR China   1,575.2 1,574.1 1,970.7
Bangladesch   963.9 903.2 1,258.8
Germany 349.2 538.1 723.8
Turkey 479.3 512.9 628.7
Cambodia 278.4 235.4 464.3
Export, thereof 4,150.1 4,521.4 5,108.9
Germany 1,794.8 1,888.0 2,343.8

Source: Central Statistical Office GUS

In 2015 Polish exports of apparel, accessories and other textile products and footwear continued to rise.

Export of garments, accessories, textiles and footwear (in PLN billion)
  2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Apparel, Accessoires, Textiles 12.0 13.5 13.9 15.1 17.3 21.4
Shoes 1.6 1.9 2.4 3.0 3.3 4.0

Source: Central Statistical Office GUS

More Investment in the Kazakhstan Light Industry © Nikolai Fokscha/ pixelio.de
26.04.2016

MORE INVESTMENT IN THE KAZAKHSTAN LIGHT INDUSTRY

  • Special Economic Zone (SEZ) Ontustik becomes important Sector Center

Almaty (GTAI) - Although the Kazakhstan textile industry is far away from the production figures in earlier Soviet times, increases have been achieved in recent years. Against the general trend, imports of textile machinery have grown strongly in 2015. The lack of skilled workers and the small domestic market has a negative effect on the development of the sector. The Special Economic Zone (SEZ) Ontustik in Shymkent could become an important center of the light industry.

  • Special Economic Zone (SEZ) Ontustik becomes important Sector Center

Almaty (GTAI) - Although the Kazakhstan textile industry is far away from the production figures in earlier Soviet times, increases have been achieved in recent years. Against the general trend, imports of textile machinery have grown strongly in 2015. The lack of skilled workers and the small domestic market has a negative effect on the development of the sector. The Special Economic Zone (SEZ) Ontustik in Shymkent could become an important center of the light industry.

The textile, clothing and leather goods industry used to be one of the most important economic sectors in Kazakhstan. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, these three sectors, identified as light industry in the country, have however lost much of its importance. In 2015 they contributed only 1.2% of the total output of the manufacturing sector. Compared to 2008 (0.9%), the proportion rose at last slightly again.

Hand in hand with the devaluation the output of the industry, measured in USD, pointed significantly down. The overall output amounted to USD 320 million in 2015. In reality in 2014 (+ 4.0%) and in 2015 (+ 3.4%) a production growth could be achieved.  

Development of production in the light industry (USD millions) 1)
  2013 2014 2015 Change 2015/14 2)
Manufacturing, thereunder 38,471 33,999 25,936 0.2
Light industry, thereof 427 353 320 3.4
Textile industry 208 148 155 0.5
Clothing industry 193 166 136 6.1
Leather goods industry 27 39 29 3.1

1) Change at the respective annual exchange rate; 2) real change in %
Source: Agency for Statistics, Astana

Investments in the light industry rise

Gross fixed investments in the light industry show an upward trend in recent years.  According to the Kazakhstan Statistics Agency the investments grew from 2012 to 2015 from USD 18.5 million to USD 45.6 million. A role hereby played the support of modernization projects by government subsidies. 

Gross fixed investments in the light industry (USD millions)*)
  2013 2014 2015
Manufacturing, thereunder 4,514.9  4,065.8 3,491.8
Light industry, thereof 32.6 23.0 21.7
Textile industry 4.6 4.1 23.2
Clothing industry 0.4 11.3 0.8

 *) Change at the respective annual exchange rate  
Source: Agency for Statistics, Astana

The recent increase in investments is reflected in imports of machinery and equipment for the sector. Against the general trend the import of textile machinery (HS positions 8444-8453, without 8450) increased nominally by 28.3% to USD 35.2 million in 2015. However, one reason for the strong growth are the weak prior years (2013: USD 40.3 million; 2014: USD 27.5 million) also. The imports however develop well above the level of 2010 and 2011 with average imports totaling nearly USD 16 million. Most important supplier of textile machinery is the PR of China. According to the Federal Statistical Office exports from Germany numbered to EUR 4.3 million in 2015, (2014: EUR 4.4 million).

The light industry suffers less from the economic crisis than other sectors

Currently the Kazakhstan economy is suffering from the slump in commodity prices and the consumers had to endure enormous losses in their purchasing power due to the devaluation. The light industry however is less affected by the negative economic situation. An advantage is the price increase of imported textiles and a gain in competitiveness due to the lower wages. Nevertheless - the sector is highly dependent on imports of both machinery and primary products.

According to the latest available information provided by the Bureau of Statistics, the average income in the textile industry in 2014 was 52,800 Tenge (T) per month, equivalent to a value of USD 294. Converted to the current exchange rate however, the amount - excluding wage increases - has shrunk to USD 150.

Hand in hand with the increased purchasing power Kazakhstan’s import of textile products had multiplied from 2006 to 2014 from USD 332 million to just under USD 2.1 billion. In 2015 the upward trend was halted. Imports broke nominally by 38.6% to USD 1.3 billion, they came down to a level of 91% of the market volume in 2014 and 2015.

Kazakhstan’s import of textile products (USD million)1)
2006 2008 2010 2012 2014 2015 Change 2015/14 2)
332 429 394 1.458 2.087 1.281 -38,6

1) HS tariff positions 50 - 67; 2) nominal Change %
Sources: UN Comtrade, Customs Committee of the Republic of Kazakhstan, Eurasian Economic Commission

Market volume for textile products (in Mio. US$; nominal change in %)
  2014 2015 Change 2015/14
Imports 1) 2,087 1,281 -38.6
Exports 1)   147 186 26.5
Local production 2) 353 320 -9.3
Market Volume 2,293 1,415 -38.3

1) HS tariff positions 50 - 67; 2) nominal Change %
Sources: UN Comtrade, Customs Committee of the Republic of Kazakhstan, Eurasian Economic Commission

The light industry offers potential for development

Preconditions for a greater development of the light industry are given in Kazakhstan, but weak points remain. According to information of Lyubov Chudowa, president of the association of the light industry enterprises, these include the great shortage of skilled labor. In addition there are the small size of Kazakhstan's local market and the great distances in the country.

On the other hand the steppe republic has a great potential in the livestock farming sector, that can provide resources like leather and wool. In addition there is the cultivation of cotton in the territory of South Kazakhstan. Though - on the global scale in these areas Kazakhstan is a small player only.
The processing of crude products is still weak. According to information provided by the regional administration of South Kazakhstan, 90% of the in the country produced cotton is being exported. At the same time the sector companies need to import most of their primary products.

SEZ Ontustik in Shymkent

The in 2005 in Shymkent (South Kazakhstan region) founded Special Economic Zone (SEZ) Ontustik, could become an important center of the light industry. Key aspect of the SEZ is presently the light and paper industry.

As in the other SEZs in Kazakhstan for the settled companies a variety of reductions in custom duties and taxes and simplifications for the employment of foreign workers applies. In addition there are tariffs for electricity, water and gas, which are 35% below the local level.

In the SEZ so far eight companies have started to operate, USD 144 million were invested in the buildings. According to the company which runs UK SEZ Ontustik, until 2020 twelve more companies are expected to come. With the establishment of the Eurasian Economic Union the interest of foreign companies in manufacturing settlements has increased. The management of the park aims to expand the profile of SEZ to other areas of the manufacturing sector, such as for example the pharmaceutical industry.      

Concentration process in light industry

From 2010 to 2014 the number of sector companies has declined from 565 to 455.  An overview of the most important companies is available on the website of the association of light industry enterprises.

Internet addresses
Special Economic Zone Ontustik
Internet: http://www.sez-ontustik.kz
Association of Light Industry Enterprises of the Republic of Kazakhstan
Internet: http://www.aplp.kz

Egypt’s Textile Manufacturers invest even in Hard Times © Rainer Sturm/ pixelio.de
19.04.2016

EGYPT’S TEXTILE MANUFACTURERS INVEST EVEN IN HARD TIMES

  • Competition requires Modernization
  • Declining Exports due to Energy Shortage and Lack of foreign Currency

Cairo (gtai) – Egypt’s vertically integrated textile and clothing industry has a strong basis. To remain competitive more modern equipment and innovative products are required. Also the cooperation with local suppliers is upgradeable. The government is planning two new textile industrial zones. The import of textile and leather machinery in the first three quarters of 2015 reached USD 135 million. Of this 17% were Ger man deliveries.

  • Competition requires Modernization
  • Declining Exports due to Energy Shortage and Lack of foreign Currency

Cairo (gtai) – Egypt’s vertically integrated textile and clothing industry has a strong basis. To remain competitive more modern equipment and innovative products are required. Also the cooperation with local suppliers is upgradeable. The government is planning two new textile industrial zones. The import of textile and leather machinery in the first three quarters of 2015 reached USD 135 million. Of this 17% were Ger man deliveries.

The situation of the textile and clothing industry in Egypt provides ample material for both optimists and for doomsayer. Technical modernization of the mills and a focus on products with higher added value offer opportunities. Potential also has a better link between the production stages. These would include installation for spinning, weaving and laundries for denim. As upgradeable product groups like underwear, high quality knitwear and fabrics can be seen. With such the benefits of Egypt could be better accentuated. These include the favorable geographical location, the proximity to major markets and a variety of trade agreements. According to the American Chamber of Commerce Egyptian manufacturers already provide clothing for international brands such as Calvin Klein, Disney, Gap, Timberland and Zara.

The chances however are being opposed by a number of difficulties. Also the textile and clothing sector was hit by the energy crisis and the lack of foreign exchange. Many companies have a limited level of liquidity. Research and development were neglected for years, although there are positive examples of innovative companies also. Many producers were forced to close in recent years. Due to the risks in the sector banks are very reluctant in lending money.

Especially needed would be modern technology and product innovations in the face of the strong competitive pressures from abroad. The comparatively low level of wages in Egypt is higher than at Asian competitors. This lets rise problems in terms of export opportunities, also with regard to the domestic market. Here imported goods cover ground, especially since Egyptian manufacturers have raised their prices in recent years. As intensifier act the high exchange rate of the Egyptian pound and the inflation rate of around permanently 10%.    

The cost pressure makes it difficult for the mills to attract high-skilled workers, which is also reflected in a high fluctuation. Several times since 2008 strikes have paralyzed the production. Industry experts complain about a poor education level and lack of efficiency. As a countermeasure the companies organize courses for their employees.

The local cultivation of cotton does not cover the demand of the textile manufacturers

Despite cotton is grown in Egypt on a large scale, the varieties do not fit the needs of most local spinning mills. The country is famous for its high-quality, soft and durable long-staple cotton, while the factories prefer and demand now short and medium staple cotton qualities. The exports are facing a strong competition from the US Pima cotton quality. The Egyptian textile and garment companies mostly import in contrast their material especially from Greece, the United States, Burkina Faso and Benin. As a result, the high-quality raw cotton is exported and not value adding intensively processed domestically, while scarce foreign exchange flows in the import of foreign cotton.

Unrest in the sector is provided by short-term legislative changes. Thus the import of cotton was prohibited in summer of 2015, however allowed again after one week. Domestic cotton farmers are particularly affected by the reduction of subsidies, which concerns the cultivation itself and the needed fertilizers. Many farmers change to other crops, because cotton does not pay anymore and high inventories have accrued.

Egypt has a vertically integrated textile and clothing industry. It represents about 25% of the industrial production of the country and also provides a quarter of all manufacturing jobs. The largest product group is clothing, also fabrics and filament fiber and yarn play an important role. Approximately 50 to 60% of the spinning, weaving and felt capacities are state owned, while private companies dominate for 90% the garment production. The regional main textile areas are greater Cairo, the Nile Delta and Alexandria. In February 2015 the General Authority for Investment and Free Zones counted 4,594 textile and apparel companies with total investments of nearly USD 6 billion. Of this 4,399 companies where located in normal domestic areas, 196 in special free zones.

Big textile and clothing manufacturers in Egypt (selection)
Name      Internet address
Abo El Sebaa Weaving Company http://abo-elsebaa.com
Al-Arafa Investment and Consulting http://arafaholding.com  
Alexandria Spinning & Weaving Co. (SPINALEX) http://spinalex.com  
Chourbagi Moderne for Clothing and Textiles S.A.E. "Charmaine" http://www.charmaine.com.eg
Egyptian Spinning & Weaving Company (ESW)   http://egyptianspinning.com  
El-Nasr Clothes and Textiles (KABO) http://www.kabo.com.eg
Misr Spinning and Weaving (El Mahala el Kobra)    http://www.misrhelwantextile.com
Oriental Weavers http://www.orientalweavers.com

Quellen: Invest in Egypt, Research of Germany Trade & Invest

Weaker export results for textiles and clothing in 2015

With a volume of at last nearly USD 2.7 billion in 2014, textiles and clothing were the fourth most important export goods of Egypt. Based on the first nine months of 2015 however, weaker annual results than in 2014 are expected. The by far biggest target markets are still the EU and the USA.

Egyptian exports of textiles and clothing (HS 52, 54, 55, 57 and 60-63;
in USD million)
2013 2014 2015
2,843 2,695 1,848

*) January – end of September
Sources: UN Comtrade

Against all odds, the Egyptian textile and clothing companies are about to invest in their facilities. ESW announced in September 2015 to provide eight subsidiaries with approximately USD 19 million for reactivated and new production lines. The Czech Pegas Nonwoven Co. has ordered another manufacturing facility for its Egyptian plant. The imports of textile and leather machines from Germany are more stable than the total imports. After the results of the first three quarters, it is clear that German deliveries in 2015 will be higher than in 2014.

Import of textile and leather machinery to Egypt (HS 8444-49 and 8451-53 HS; in USD million)
Country 2013 2014 2015
Imports total 203.6 151.6 135.0
from Germany 27.2 22.3 22.9

*) January – end of September
Sources: UN Comtrade

The Egyptian government has announced to build two industrial zones for textiles in Borg El Arab and the 6th of October City near Cairo. In August 2015 the Chinese Gondong Group had first talks about a possible investment in Egypt.

Internet addresses

Cotton Research Institute
Internet: http://www.arc.sci.eg
Egyptian Textile Development Association
Internet: http://www.etda-egypt.org
Egy Stitch & Tex (internationale Ausstellung in Kairo)
Internet: http://www.egystitchandtex.com
Industrial Development Authority
Internet: http://www.ida.gov.eg
Industrial Modernisation Centre
Internet: http://www.imc-egypt.org
Industrial Union of Garments - Chamber of Textiles Industries
(im Dachverband Federation of Egyptian Industries)
Internet: http://www.fei.org.eg
Home Textile Export Council
Internet: http://www.egyptianhometextiles.org
National Research Center (mit Textile Industries Division)
Internet: http://www.nrc.sci.eg
Ready Made Garments Export Council
Internet: http://www.rmgec-egypt.com
Textile Export Council
Internet: http://www.textile-egypt.org

Vietnam´s Grament Industry experiences Investment Boom ©Beckmann Agency
12.04.2016

VIETNAM'S GARMENT INDUSTRY EXPERIENCES INVESTMENT BOOM

  • FTA attracts Manufacturers
  • Proportion of local added Value should rise

Hong Kong (gtai) - Vietnam is one of the main production sites of the clothing industry. Already in recent years the country had attracted buyers from around the world. In 2014 textiles and clothing shared 22% of the total merchandise exports. According to the state owned VINATX in 2015 Vietnam was the fourth largest apparel exporter in the world. The through the FTA with the EU and the Pacific neighbors expected growth requires investment in the supply industry.

  • FTA attracts Manufacturers
  • Proportion of local added Value should rise

Hong Kong (gtai) - Vietnam is one of the main production sites of the clothing industry. Already in recent years the country had attracted buyers from around the world. In 2014 textiles and clothing shared 22% of the total merchandise exports. According to the state owned VINATX in 2015 Vietnam was the fourth largest apparel exporter in the world. The through the FTA with the EU and the Pacific neighbors expected growth requires investment in the supply industry.

In 2015 the Vietnamese garment exports amounted to about USD 27 billion. Estimates of the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) show they will increase by 8% in 2016. Nearly USD 30 billion of sector products would then be exported and assure Vietnam a ranking among the four largest exporting countries. The world market however is stagnating. The sector contributes nearly 10% to the industrial added value of the country, 2.5 million people are employed.

As the most important export market remains the United States. According to Vinatex the export to the US rose by 13% in 2015. The group dominates the textile production in the country, including companies like Garment 10, Phong Phu Textile and Garment Corporation, Viet Tien Garment and Hoa Tho Textile and Garment. Vinatex itself exported products worth of USD 3.5 billion, representing an increase of 10%.

TPP promises benefits

The sector has high hopes on the in February 2016 signed FTA Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP), in which next to the USA, Japan and Vietnam and eleven Pacific Room states arranged added tariff reductions and improved market access. If the ratification process in all countries will be successful, the agreement would enter into force in February 2018. Analysts show that Vietnam would become one of the main winners, among others due to the lowest labor cost in comparison of all other involved countries. The agreement therefore is welcomed by the majority of the population.

Pre-products have to be imported

According to experts the competitiveness of Vietnam will be increased especially in the area of textiles and clothing. About 70% of the textile exports will be delivered to TPP member countries. Despite the annual growth rates of 15 to 20% the value adding in the country remained low. Imports of raw materials and accessories are high and totaled to USD 16.5 billion in 2015. 90% of the 5,028 textile factories in Vietnam (end of 2013) are apparel manufacturers, that mean sewing operations. By contrast there are just four cotton-processing and two synthetic fibers producing companies.   

Imports of textile industry (in USD million, annual change in %)
  2014 2015 Change
Cotton 1,443 1,623 12.5
Fibers 1,559 1,515 -2.8
Fabrics 9,428 10,197 8.2
Accessories 3,031 3,193 5.3
Total 15,461 16,528 6.9

Source: Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (Vitas)

The sector is facing a challenge: TPP offers the free imports only if 55% of the value is provided in the member states. For the textile sector this is called the "Yarn Forward Rule", that means everything following the yarn. In Vietnam the proportion of the added value currently stands at 25%.

The text of the agreement is online available: (http://www.tpp.mfat.govt.nz/text). Chapter 4 deals with the textile and clothing sector and contains important annexes to the rules of origin. TPP is expected to attract investments into the country, as the value supply chain is incomplete: yarns and fabrics are mostly imported from East Asian countries.

Value adding rules require investment

Also the free trade agreement between the EU and Vietnam, agreed on August 4th 2015, should push the exchange of commodities. The share of the EU clothing imports from Vietnam is only 3%. Thus the country ranks as the sixth supplier. In the United States, Japan and South Korea Vietnam, however, is the second largest clothing supplier.

Following ratification of TPP an abolishment of 99% of all tariffs would follow.  Textiles from Vietnam would then be duty-free within a maximum period of seven years. For that TPP
defines clear rules of origin: (http://trade.ec.europa.eu/doclib/press/index.cfm?id=1437).

If investments would flow into the country and strengthen the supply chain, the value of clothing exports from Vietnam could be doubled until 2020 - so bold estimates.   Then the annual production of yarns should reach 2 million tons, the amount of fabrics 2 billion square meters and that of clothing 6 billion pieces. Following the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS)  the export value then should be between USD 45 to 50 billion. This requires new textile machinery. So far, mainly Chinese products were in demand, but also for German suppliers the opportunities emerge.

Production capacity of the Vietnamese textile industry
Sector Annual capacity
Cotton ginning (1,000 t) 70
Synthetic fibers (1,000 t) 400
Filament yarn (1,000 t) 182
Spinning (1,000 t) 900
Weaving (Mio. m²) 800
Knitting (1,000 t) 110
Nonwovens (1,000 t) 16
Dyeing and finishing (Mio. m²) 1200
Toweling (1,000 t) 62
Clothing(Mio. Stück)  4000

Source: Vitas

However, many sector representatives in Vietnam see TPP also critical, because by the agreement large new market participants could intensify competition. The small and medium companies are hardly competitive due to their outdated technology, lack of capital and low know-how. They demand government aid in the form of tax breaks and subsidies for land. The Bank for Investment and Development of Vietnam has already provided USD 2 billion for the support of the industry for the next five years.    

Investment in regional centers

Large investments are happening already now: The TAL Group from Hong Kong, one of the largest owner-managed apparel producers, has invested USD 600 million in factories in the Dai An Industry Zone in Hai Duong Province, especially for yarn dyeing and finishing. Haputex Development, which is also from Hong Kong, has built with up to USD 120 million in the province of Binh Duong on a twelve hectare site a Weaving mill which should go into operation 2016.  There also the South Korean company Kyungbang is building a spinning mill for USD 40 million. The Texhong Textile and Garment Group is building with USD 300 million a yarn factory in Quang Ninh. And in Nam Dinh the Yulun Jiangsu Textile Group, a state-owned company from China, is building with USD 68 million a factory for the manufacturing and dyeing of yarn.

Investments are mainly attracted by the regions Ninh Binh, Hue, Binh Duong and Ham Dinh, as well as the cost favorable  Mekong Delta. New target regions are at the borders with Laos and Cambodia, such as the area Tay Nguyen. As the largest Vietnamese group also Vinatex invests in new capacities and announces in convincing interviews to reach by 2020 a local added value part of 65% in final finished products.

Target markets of Vietnamese apparel exports (in USD million, annual change in %)
  2014 2015 Change
USA 9.841 10.984 11,6
EU 2.261 3.325 47,1
Japan 2.092 2.163 3,4
Korea (Rep.) 2.092 2.163 3,4
Total 24.692 27.021 9,4

Source: Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS)

Contact address:
Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS)
2nd Floor, 32 Trang Tien Str., Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam
Tel.: 0084 4/39 36 41 34; Fax: -39 34 98 42
Email: info@vietnamtextile.org.vn; Internet: http://www.vietnamtextile.org.vn

Village www.kappisdesign.de
22.03.2016

IMPORT BAN OF USED CLOTHING TO PROMOTE EAST AFRICAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

Observers doubt the Success of the planned Measures / Ambitions in the Automotive Industry

Nairobi (gtai) - The countries of the East African Community will prohibit the import of used clothing and used shoes in three years. Long since defunct textile and clothing industries so revived. It is also planned to impede the import of used cars, in order to promote a local car assemblers. In particular, the Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni dreams of building its own car industry.

The East African Community (EAC), who is also Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda and Burundi belong alongside Uganda, other countries serve as role models. So to have led to building lively textile industries in Ghana, Egypt, Ethiopia, India and Vietnam, such a ban.

Observers doubt the Success of the planned Measures / Ambitions in the Automotive Industry

Nairobi (gtai) - The countries of the East African Community will prohibit the import of used clothing and used shoes in three years. Long since defunct textile and clothing industries so revived. It is also planned to impede the import of used cars, in order to promote a local car assemblers. In particular, the Ugandan President Yoweri Museveni dreams of building its own car industry.

The East African Community (EAC), who is also Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda and Burundi belong alongside Uganda, other countries serve as role models. So to have led to building lively textile industries in Ghana, Egypt, Ethiopia, India and Vietnam, such a ban.

Used clothing is very popular East Africa. With luck, you can get hold of well-preserved Western European branded goods or shoe sizes, as they are locally not available for little money. Many teenagers from expensive villas suburbs of capitals makes a kick out, used T-shirts to buy exotic printing at prices equivalent to 0.45 euros. Thanks to the second-hand imports contribute even male slum dwellers naturally a western suit and girls or young women from a wide array chic western clothes.

German exports of rags of SITC 269 in countries of the East African Community
(in million euros)

Customer Country 2014 2015 *)
Kenya 8.61 7.74
Uganda 4.92 4.48
Tanzania 1.87 4.81
Rwanda 0.12 0.14
Burundi 0.31 0.02
Total 15.83 17.19
German Exports worldwide 390.64 388.55

1) Primarily apparently used clothing, blankets and kitchen linen of textile materials and shoes that are loose presented in bulk or bales. 2) provisionally
Source: Destatis

Politicians promise hundreds of thousands of new jobs
While East African politicians boast of being able to create in this way hundreds of thousands of jobs, incite economists from: "The reasons why people in East Africa are happy to buy used clothes easily enumerated," said Scolastica Odhiambo, an economics professor at the Kenyan Maseno University: "It is less expensive, of good quality and provides diversity." The regional textile industry have meanwhile not have the capacity to meet the demand. In addition, they do not produce quality  in the eyes of the local population. The only local manufacturer of shoes, meanwhile, the company Bata that however mainly produces shoes for students and a local SME. In the upper price segment Bata, however, is dependent on imports.

In a period of three years, it is the opinion of observers simply impossible to expand the local textile industry so that it can meet the demand both quantitatively and qualitatively. This time is also too short to find alternative employment for hundreds of thousands of second-hand clothes dealer who live with their families from the Mitumba business (Mitumba = bales).

Industrial decline since the 1980s
If the East African states really want to try willing to build a powerful textile industry, they would almost from scratch start. The East African cotton production was mid- 1980 even at the height. Tanzania had  then 700,000 bales (à 185 kg) produces cotton, reports the weekly "The East African", Uganda and Kenya 400,000 100,000. Then it was just gone downhill. Kenya had last only 25,000 bales (2014), Uganda 150,000 bales (2015) and Tanzania produced 30,000 bales (2014).

East African textile factories and Entkörnungswerke for cotton (ginneries) have shut down or run down for the most part. The main reasons included industry experts, a lack of organization of the agricultural sector, high production costs, the inadequate use of quality inputs and over-reliance on a rain irrigation. Then in 1991 came yet added the liberalization of the sector: Cheap Used clothes conquered henceforth
the market.

Uniforms instead of fashion chic?
How difficult is the situation, be seen using the example of single Rwandan textile factory L'Usine Textile du Rwanda (UTEXRWA). 1984 began its operation,the 75-million-US $ - Investment. But for an average Rwandans were and are the products simply too expensive. Finally, the utilization was only at 20%, sales fell to an estimated $ 2 million to 3 million US. Almost all substances are already imported: cotton
fabrics from the East African neighbors, polyester materials from South Africa, Taiwan, Korea and Indonesia (Rep.).

To prevent the utter collapse of the company, the Rwandan government will soon raise the import tariffs on clothing gradually from 35% to 100%. Rwandan clothing retailers see the highly critical: UTEXRWA could neither quantity nor quality and certainly not fashionable Chic deliver, not now and not in ten years. Over military and school uniforms are not there, they say.

Prohibitions instead of better frame conditions
Foreign observers speak of a typical East African policy Quick shot: Because the governments want to defuse the ticking time bomb of rapidly rising unemployment, they sat on activism without the  consequences to sufficiently discuss. If East Africa wants to strengthen its industry, it must improve the framework. Bureaucracy, corruption, nepotism and monopolies are the ones that prevent the development of competitive industries for decades.

The winner of the new policy is expected to - be the PRC, which is expected to fill along with other low-cost producers, the expected supply vacuum - again. Clothing stores in the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa to show where we are headed: The cheapest Chinese commodity, wherever you look. The new Ethiopian textile and footwear industry is meanwhile mainly from Chinese companies which produce exclusively for export. to copy this model to other East African countries, however, is likely to fail, say industry insiders. Kenya and Tanzania are far too expensive, not to mention the landlocked countries of Uganda, Burundi and Rwanda throughout.

German exports of machinery for textile, apparel and leather production
in selected East African countries (EGW 847; EUR million).

Abnehmerland 2013 2014 2015 *)
Mauritius 5.44 3.39 4.17
Uganda 0.60 0.56 1.67
Ethiopia 0.48 6.68 1.14
Kenya 0.93 1.72 0.91
Tanzania 0.61 0.47 0.56
Madagascar 0.02 0.05 0.04
Total 8.08 12.87 8.49

*) provisional; Quelle: Destatis

Protectionism to promote motor vehicle industry
Even more questionable than the East African textile policy is rekindled desire to raise its own automotive industry launched. Hopefuls nationalist politicians in Kenya is the "Mobius", an all-terrain vehicle primitive, which is equipped with a small engine from the Nissan NP200 pick-up truck. Students of Uganda Makerere University have meanwhile introduced with the help of the US Massachusetts Institute of
Technology two concept studies, the "Kiira EV Smak Car" and "Kayoola Solar Bus". While the Kenyan "development" is reminiscent of the technical status of the 2nd World War, set the Ugandan vehicles
conscious on renewable energy.

Although these backyard experiments also not likely to have the lowest commercial opportunities, they nevertheless serve currently as an excuse for protectionist import barriers, which resulted in imports are likely to be more difficult in favor of a local assembly of CKD kits.