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Gerd Altmann: PIXABAY
02.04.2019

ITALY'S SHOE AND LEATHER INDUSTRY WANTS TO BECOME MORE DIGITAL

  • Rethinking in traditional industry

Italy's shoe and shoe technology manufacturers are losing market share in important markets and want to make their production more efficient and digital. German companies score points in niches.

Even though 9 out of 10 shoes today come from Asia, Europe's largest shoe producer Italy still ranks among the top ten of the world's largest shoe producers and is the undisputed market leader in the luxury segment. Nevertheless, sales in terms of volume at home and abroad are falling and so is production. At the moment, the sector can only secure its turnover through higher prices.

  • Rethinking in traditional industry

Italy's shoe and shoe technology manufacturers are losing market share in important markets and want to make their production more efficient and digital. German companies score points in niches.

Even though 9 out of 10 shoes today come from Asia, Europe's largest shoe producer Italy still ranks among the top ten of the world's largest shoe producers and is the undisputed market leader in the luxury segment. Nevertheless, sales in terms of volume at home and abroad are falling and so is production. At the moment, the sector can only secure its turnover through higher prices.

The decline in export demand, which accounts for around 85 percent of Italian footwear, is particularly painful. According to the sector association Assocalzaturifici, international sales fell by around 4 million pairs between January and October 2018. Only an average price increase of 6.4 percent enabled a year-on-year increase. On the German sales market, sales of Italian shoes also stagnated at around EUR 1 billion, while German shoe exports to Italy, with a plus of 34.5 percent to around EUR 485 million, achieved one of the highest growth rates in German trade with Italy.

Orders received by the Italian footwear industry in the fourth quarter of 2018 declined both domestic (-2.5 percent) and abroad (-0.9 percent). The only market segment that is still growing in Italy itself are sports shoes/sneakers. According to experts, the falling number of units drives manufacturers to find solutions that help to reduce production costs.

Opportunities for Germans in Digital Change and in niches
In the shoe and leather technology domestic manufacturers dominate. Assomac, the Association for Shoe and Leather Technology, estimates, that in 2018 the approximately 240 Italian companies in the sector achieved a turnover of around EUR 760 million. By contrast, exports of shoe and leather machinery, which account for around three quarters of the sector sales, fell by around 6.2 percent in 2018. Italy is by far the most important exporter of leather and shoe technology in the world. In 2018, shoe and leather machinery worth of around EUR 439 billion went abroad, particularly to China, Vietnam and India.

German deliveries of shoe and leather technology to Italy are at a low level and, according to the VDMA trade association Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies, reached around EUR 4 million in 2018. Italy thus ranked fourth behind China, the USA and Mexico in terms of export destinations. With foreign deliveries of around EUR 50 million per year, Germany is the world's fifth largest exporter.

Market experts see opportunities for German companies in Italy with components that help domestic companies in international competition, for example the use of intelligent and networking machines. Despite their great competence, Italian manufacturers are very traditional and are struggling with the digital changes. But industry experts report that the companies are rethinking and interested in new solutions.
"We support our Italian customers in installing more software solutions for sewing machines and in networking machines," says Sebastian Feges, sales engineer at the Schwetzingen-based company EFKA, one of the last German companies in the sewing industry.  EFKA supplies Italian shoe and leather machine manufacturers with sewing drive controls. The company scores particularly well in areas where maximum precision is essential and every wrong stitch leads to expensive scrap, such as leather seats for Ferrari. According to Feges, money for investments in Italy is not easy to get at the moment. However, he sees an interesting perspective in the promotion of the Italian government for the purchase of industry 4.0 equipment and software, the so-called Iperammortamento, which is not yet sufficiently known.

Further opportunities exist in niches that are gaining in importance due to current industry trends such as digital printing on leather. The machines of Hansa Mixer from Bremen produce foam for textile and digital printing and the sealing of leather hides. "We offer a niche product that can be used anywhere," General Sales Manager Achim Schmidt says. In addition to the shoe and leather industry, Hansa Mixer also supplies food manufacturers such as Ferrero. "Italy is an interesting market for us and we expect good orders."

Another industry trend is greater sustainability, especially in the often-criticized leather industry. Assomac is expressly committed to this goal and has – next to other thing - introduced the new Targa Verde certificate.

 

Kennzahlen der italienischen Schuhindustrie 2018
Indicator Value Change in 2018/2017
Imports of shoe and leather machinery (HS 8453) EUR 36 mio 5.6
Footwear production 185.7 million pairs -2.6
Domestic Shoe industry sales EUR 7.8 billion 0.7
Export volume 2018 176.5 mio pairs -2.3
Export revenues EUR 9.6 billion 3.9

Sources: Assocalzaturifici, Instat

The Italian footwear industry consists of about 4,700 companies with about 77,000 employees. According to the industry association Assocalzaturifici, sector sales in 2017 amounted to about EUR 14.2 billion. Industry clusters are the regions of Venice, Tuscany, Marche, Lombardy, Campania, Apulia and Emilia Romagna. The cluster in Brento, Veneto produces about 11 percent of the national output. Also International manufacturers such as LVMH and Louis Vuitton are investing and producing in Italy.

 

Shopping malls Photo: Pixabay
24.07.2018

NEW TRENDS IN ITALIAN RETAIL OPEN UP OPPORTUNITIES

  • Franchising takes off, more and more German retail chains discover Italy

Milan (GTAI) - The Italian retail sector is modernizing and the franchise economy is growing. Italian franchise systems are gaining ground. New modern shopping centers, including the largest in Europe, create space for new shops. German retail chains are expanding in many segments, from discount food and other consumer goods to services. Northern Italy is considered a popular test site. High quality and a price advantage are the keys to success.

  • Franchising takes off, more and more German retail chains discover Italy

Milan (GTAI) - The Italian retail sector is modernizing and the franchise economy is growing. Italian franchise systems are gaining ground. New modern shopping centers, including the largest in Europe, create space for new shops. German retail chains are expanding in many segments, from discount food and other consumer goods to services. Northern Italy is considered a popular test site. High quality and a price advantage are the keys to success.

The Italian retail sector is changing. The number of classic corner shops is declining, the modern organized retail trade is growing. The franchise economy in particular is developing positively. Beyond the classical areas such as food and fashion, various Italian franchise systems are spreading more and more visibly in the big cities.
 
According to the industry association Assofranchising, the franchise industry had a turnover of approximately EUR 24.6 billion in 2017. This represents an increase of 2.6 percent compared to the previous year and an increase of 5.7 percent since 2014. With a similar number of systems (929 in Italy, 972 in Germany), the German franchise industry generated almost five times as much turnover. One reason for this is that German franchise systems have on average more than three times as many businesses per franchise.

Development of the franchise economy in Italy
  2016 2017 Change (in %)
Sales (Euro Mio.)  23,930 24,545 2.6
Franchise systems 950 929 -2.2
Businesses 50,720 51,671 1.9
Italian businesses abroad 7,871 10,079 28.1
Italian businesses abroad (min. 3 companies) 169 179 5.9
Foreign systems in Italy 61 71 16.4
Employees 195,303 199,260 2.0
Average size of systems in Italy (number of companies) 53.4 55.6 4.2
Average size of Italian systems abroad (number of companies) 46.6 56.3 20.9

   Source: Rapporto Assofranchising 2018

But the segment is catching up in Italy. Italian franchise systems are expanding, also abroad. Outside Italy, their number increased by around 6 percent in 2017, while their average size (measured by the number of businesses) increased by around 21 percent. The domestic average dimension is also growing. The country is also becoming more attractive for foreign franchisors. In 2017, the number of foreign franchise systems increased by 16 percent. The relevant trade fair is the Salone Franchising, which will take place from October 25th to 27th 2018 in Milan.   

New shopping centers are driving the developments forward
Developments in the retail sector are accompanied by new construction projects. A number of new shopping centers are currently under construction in Italy, creating space for the new generation of franchises and retail chains. The major CityLife project on the former Milan exhibition grounds is a current example. In addition to two of the three planned skyscrapers (including Allianz's new headquarter in Italy), a new shopping center was inaugurated in autumn 2017. Particularly in the catering sector new Italian chains, which are expanding nationwide, can be seen. A new gastronomy floor with restaurants and cafés in the middle price segment was recently inaugurated at the Termini railway station in Rome.

A number of modern shopping centers are still under construction, including the new Westfield Milan. Project operators describe it as the largest shopping center in Europe. With an investment EUR 1.4 billion Westfield Milan is to be inaugurated in 2020. The majority of the new construction projects are located in the larger cities in the north, but Rome and Naples will soon receive new shopping centers also.

Shopping centers under construction in Italy
Designation Investment (Mio. Euro) Area (1,000 sqm) Completion Remarks
Westfield, Milan 1,400 60 2020

http://www.westfieldcorp.com

Maximo, Rome 300 61 2019 Cushman & Wakefield
Emilia Shopping District, Parma 200 74 2019

http://www.sonaesierra.com

Maximall Pompeii, Napoli 150 200 2019

http://www.maximall.it/pompeii

Falcon Malls Cascina Merlata, Milan n.a. 65 2021 http://falconmalls.it
Falcon Malls Concordia, Milan n.a. 131 2021 http://falconmalls.it
Waltherpark Shopping - Bozen 23 k.A. 2021

https://waltherpark.com

    Source: Research of Germany Trade & Invest

Opportunities for German retail chains
Another trend in Italy is the expansion of German retail chains. One growth area is the market for discount foods. According to Nielsen, discounters had a market share of 17 percent of the sold food at the end of 2017. The market leader is Eurospin from Italy, followed by Lidl. In 2018 Aldi opened its first store in northern Italy and by the end of 2018 it is planned to open 45 stores. Lidl is defending itself against its new competitor with planned investments in Italy amounting to EUR 350 mio for a new inner-city store concept. A total of 40 new points of sale are planned, and a further 50 stores are to be modernized.

Both German supermarket chains confirm that a local strategy for Italian gourmets is indispensable. Lidl sources 80 percent of its food products from Italy, while Aldi's share is almost as high at 75 percent.

In terms of price, the recipe for success of the German retail chains is somewhat different from Germany. Although German retailers continue to score with a good price-performance ratio, the focus in Italy is on the mid-price segment.

The latest example is the drugstore chain dm. The first branch was inaugurated at the end of 2017. There are plans to open 100 stores in northern Italy by 2020. dm offers not only a price advantage over its Italian competitors, but also high-quality products. In addition, there are hardly any "one-stop shops" in Italy, which are also drugstores, but also sell beauty products, organic and natural products as well as baby products.   

The Douglas perfumery chain is expanding also in Italy. At the end of 2017, Douglas' parent company completed the acquisition of two of the leading perfumeries in Italy, Limoni and La Gardenia.    

Fielmann is another example of a German chain that has conquered the Italian market in recent years with high-quality products and a price advantage. With entry into the South Tyrol market and ongoing expansion in northern Italy, Fielmann is popular with Italian consumers despite the large competing manufacturers of glasses in Italy due to its price advantages.

Germany's successful model is not limited to food and other consumer goods. The Berlin-based company Flixbus is an example that the concept of quality and price competition can also be successfully applied to the service sector. Flixbus has been in Italy since 2015 and the number of passengers is increasing constantly. In 2017, 40 million Italians were on the road with Flixbus, twice as many as the year before. Italy is the fastest growing market among 26 countries for the company.

More information:
Italy Franchisesysteme Retail
Source:

Robert Scheid, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

Photo: Pixabay
29.05.2018

ITALIAN FASHION INDUSTRY ON COURSE FOR INNOVATION

  • FOCUS ON DIGITIZATION AND SUSTAINABILITY

Mailand (GTAI) - The Italian fashion industry is changing. The digitalization of production and the growth in online trading are forcing a rethinking in the traditional sector. The topic of sustainability is becoming increasingly important. Against this background, Italian fashion houses are increasingly investing in their future strategies. German companies see good business opportunities as technology partners.

The Italian fashion industry is one of the core sectors of the Italian economy. In 2017, the sector increased its sales by 2.4 percent to EUR 54.1 billion, as reported the industry association Confindustria Moda. For 2018, the association expects a further increase of 2.6 percent to EUR 55.4 billion. The goal is to exceed the EUR 60 billion by 2020.

  • FOCUS ON DIGITIZATION AND SUSTAINABILITY

Mailand (GTAI) - The Italian fashion industry is changing. The digitalization of production and the growth in online trading are forcing a rethinking in the traditional sector. The topic of sustainability is becoming increasingly important. Against this background, Italian fashion houses are increasingly investing in their future strategies. German companies see good business opportunities as technology partners.

The Italian fashion industry is one of the core sectors of the Italian economy. In 2017, the sector increased its sales by 2.4 percent to EUR 54.1 billion, as reported the industry association Confindustria Moda. For 2018, the association expects a further increase of 2.6 percent to EUR 55.4 billion. The goal is to exceed the EUR 60 billion by 2020.

But the sector is developing inconsistently. Sales of intermediate products such as fabrics have been stagnating for years, while sales of end products such as clothing, shoes and bags are increasing. Both areas grew in 2017. End products (+2.9 percent) continue to be more successful than primary products (+2.2 percent). The main reason for the positive development of the fashion industry in recent years is the strong export demand for Italian products. In 2017 exports rose by a total of 3.5 percent and exceeded the EUR 30 billion mark for the first time.

The main export hits are clothing (one third of fashion exports), leather goods (around 20 percent) and shoes (around 18 percent), followed by fabrics (9 percent) and home textiles (9 percent). Sector representatives are concerned about developments in some important sales markets. Exports to the USA and Japan declined in 2017, the rising demand from China and Russia could not compensate these losses.

Significant rise in fashion imports
Domestic demand for fashion stagnated in 2017, while significantly more preproducts from the Far East and end products from industrialized countries were imported. Overall, imports increased by 2.2 percent to EUR 21.1 billion in 2017, Confindustria is expecting a further increase of 2.4 percent in 2018.

Germany is one of the most important markets for Italian fashion manufacturers; Italian shoes and bags are particularly popular with German customers. In return, Germany, with imports worth EUR 1.3 billion (plus 4.1 percent), ranked fourth as a supplier country in 2017, behind China, France and Spain. Clothing accounts for about half of German fashion imports and textiles for the other half. Germany is an important supplier of technical textiles, including sports goods and for the automotive industry.

Many companies strengthen their online presence  
The digitalization of the Italian industry does not stop at the fashion industry either. Thanks to the new technologies, traditional manufacturers can increasingly reach their customers directly without intermediaries.

How well this works was demonstrated by the Italian start-up company Yoox, an online luxury fashion retailer. Founded in 2000, the company merged with the French online fashion company and strong competitor Net-a-Porter in 2015. The Group is now active in 180 countries and generated sales of EUR 2.1 billion in 2017.
Many companies are strengthening their online presence and using their stores primarily as showcases to promote brands or new collections. The company Beste with the still new brand for men Monobi is an actual example. The traditional fashion houses Loro Piana and Zegna have been active in this direction already for several years.

Industry 4.0 sets impulses
Digitalization also makes new production processes possible for fashion houses. The networking of machines reduces production times, increases efficiency and reduces electricity and water consumption. In addition, manufacturers get the opportunity to offer tailormade solutions. Digitalization also ensures through just-in-time concepts that inventories and sales areas can be reduced, which leads to falling costs.

Well-known Italian fashion houses are investing heavily into the future. The luxury company Gucci has invested around EUR 100 million in a new innovation center, the so called ArtLab, in the greater Florence area. The company Beste has started two research projects in the field of Industry 4.0. The intensive research focuses on the development of new, environmentally friendly materials and the development of a digital platform for the planning, production and distribution of garments.

Sustainability is increasingly becoming a sales argument
The topic of sustainability is becoming increasingly important. The National Chamber of Italian Fashion (CNMI), for example, organizes discussion rounds on the subject. The fashion house Ferragamo has presented a sustainability plan to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and energy consumption. A new development by Ferragamo is also a sustainable fabric made from orange peels.

Gucci, Armani, Bulgari, the list of the world-famous Italian fashion companies is long. At the same time, Italy also has a large number of small and very small companies in the fashion sector. In 2017, the average number of employees in the companies was 9. Small and medium-sized com-panies also rely on sustainability.

The major Italian bank Unicredit, together with the European Investment Bank, is providing low interest loans for small and medium-sized fashion companies (up to 250 employees) for relevant investments. Similar programs are provided by the major bank Intesa Sanpaolo.

Source:

Robert Scheid, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

PAKISTAN’S TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY HAS TO INVEST © Jerzy Sawluk / pixelio.de
07.06.2016

PAKISTAN’S TEXTILE AND GARMENT INDUSTRY HAS TO INVEST

  • INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION INCREASES
  • COMPANIES HAVE TO MODERNIZE PRODUCTION AND INCREASE DEPTH OF PROCESSING

Dubai / Islamabad (GTAI) - Pakistan's textile and clothing industry has urgently to invest. The international competition has intensified. The companies need to modernize their technology and increase their processing depth. The country wants to get away from the production of simple fabrics and yarns. The GSP Plus agreement with the EU and an improvement in the security situation have improved the investment climate. In high-end machines Pakistan is dependent on imports. 

  • INTERNATIONAL COMPETITION INCREASES
  • COMPANIES HAVE TO MODERNIZE PRODUCTION AND INCREASE DEPTH OF PROCESSING

Dubai / Islamabad (GTAI) - Pakistan's textile and clothing industry has urgently to invest. The international competition has intensified. The companies need to modernize their technology and increase their processing depth. The country wants to get away from the production of simple fabrics and yarns. The GSP Plus agreement with the EU and an improvement in the security situation have improved the investment climate. In high-end machines Pakistan is dependent on imports. 

Pakistan's textile and clothing industry expects better sales opportunities abroad in the next few years, particularly with the European Union. Early 2014 Pakistan has received from the EU the GSP Plus status (Generalized System of Preferences) that allows the country to supply goods at a lower rate of duty or even with a completely duty exempt in the EU. Particularly the textile and clothing industry benefits from the agreement, as the sector provides almost 80% of Pakistan's exports to the EU. The government even hopes on additional exports for the sector worth USD 1 billion per year.

Following the latest available trade figures, Pakistan increased in 2014, the year in which the GSP Plus agreement came into force, its total exports of clothing by almost 10% to around USD 5 billion. Official figures of exports to the EU are not available. According to the foreign trade statistics, in any case exports to Germany have increased in clothing by 13% to almost USD 500 million, in textiles by 18% to USD 434 million and in footwear by 27% to USD 34 million.

Pakistan's export of textiles, clothing and footwear (USD million)
SITC Productgroup 2013 2014 Change 2014/2013
Export        
65 Textiles 9,341 9.077 -2,8
84 Clothing 4,549 4.991 9,7
85 Shoes 109 132 21,1
26 Textile Fibres 370 308 -16,8
..2631 Cotton 217 181 -16,7
Import        
65 Textiles 1,245 1.545 24,2
84 Clothing 68 86 26,0
85 Shoes 67 84 25,2
26 Textile Fibres 1,369 1.287 -6,0

Source: UN Comtrade

Demand for textile machinery rises
Market observers anticipate increased investments in machinery. A particular dynamic effort is expected in the demand for textile printing machines, dyeing machines, tenter frames and other finishing techniques. Positive for the investment climate will be the effect of the expected increase in textile exports to the EU and the improvement of the security situation. In recent years power shortages and a precarious security situation have inhibited the production and investment activity.

The market for textile machinery (SITC 724) grew significantly since 2014. In the country itself only relatively simple machines are being manufactured. High-end equipment is mostly imported. The import of textile machinery rose to USD 585 million in 2014, an increase of 17% compared to 2013.

Import of Textilmaschinen*)
Year Value (in Mio. US$)
2014 585
2013 498
2012 439
2011 488
2010 455
2009 217
2008 385

*) SITC 724, including pieces
Source: UN Comtrade

German machinery manufacturers are losing market share
The PR China has superseded Japan as the major supplier of textile machinery in 2014. In fact Japan was able to increase its deliveries vigorously (+ 23%), but the Chinese succeeded to get even higher gains (+ 41%). The suppliers from Switzerland and India have also increased their exports to Pakistan significantly. German machinery manufacturers however were not able to benefit from the increasing demand.
Import of textile machinery by main supplier countries (in USD million, change over previous year and supply share in %) *)
Land   2014 Veränderung 2014/2013 Anteil
VR China 145 40.7 24.8
Japan 139 22.6 23.7
Schweiz 75 55.2 12.8
Deutschland 71 -24.9 12.1
Italien 50 9.3 8.6
Indien 15 28.0 2.6
Gesamt 585 17.5 100

*) SITC 724, including pieces

Investments urgently needed
Competition from PR China, Bangladesh, India and Sri Lanka has intensified. Pakistan's textile industry needs to modernize and upgrade, to increase its productivity and the added value. Pakistan covers the entire value chain from fiber preparation from to the end product. Despite this well-position predominantly simple products are being produced. Only an estimated 40 companies are vertically integrated and cover the entire textile processing.
With an annual harvest of about 13 million bales Pakistan is the world's fourth largest cotton producer. In addition about 600.000 tons of synthetic fibers are being manufactured in the country. According to reports there are 21 manufacturers of filament yarn with a capacity of 100.000 t; the production is supported by a PTA plant with a capacity of 500.000 t.

Export of the textile industry by product group 07-01-2014 – 31-03-2015 (Changes compared to the same period of last year and in %)
Product Value (in Mio. US$) Change Share
Knitwear 1,792 7.5 18
Readymade Garment 1,548 8.5 15
Bed Wear 1,570 -2.4 15
Towels 580 1.8 6
Tent, Canvas, Tarpaulin 105 82.0 1
Made-ups (Other Textiles) 486 -0.5 5
Cotton Cloth 1,860 -26.5 18
Cotton Yarn 1,461 2.0 14
Raw Cotton 142 -9.4 1
Art-Silk& Synthetic Textile 274 -17.0 3
Other Textile Products 350 0.0 4
Summe 10,168 -1.6 100

Sources: Pakistan Bureau of Statistics; TMA - Towel Manufacturers Association

Yarn production has lost competitiveness
According to sector experts In the past decade yarn manufacturers made no larger investments to upgrade their production, although money would have been available for such investments.  The reason for that should have been the heavy competition from China, India and Bangladesch.  Ten years ago Pakistan used to be one of the most efficient yarn manufacturers worldwide. Because modernization investments failed to materialize, this technique applies as outdated in Pakistan today.

The companies complain about high production costs and are demanding more favorable electricity tariffs and protectionist measures against import competition. A negative effect on the production and the investment climate in the country also have the electricity shortages and the tense security Situation.

The textile sector in Pakistan is characterized by numerous large textile companies with quite a large number of small businesses opposite which mostly belong to the so-called informal sector. The informal sector, for example, includes small family companies or small productions, which are not taxable. The informal sector produces mainly simple products for the domestic market. It works with discarded equipment of the larger companies, imported used machinery or cheap equipment from China. The official statistics do not take the informal sector into account.

Import of textile machinery by product and top supplier countries (in USD thousands, change compared to the previous year in%)
SITC Productgroup 2013 2014 Veränd.
724.3 Sewing machines, from 18.508 31.034 67,7
  PR China 9.795 19.925 103,4
  Japan 2.596 3.694 42,3
  Vietnam 479 911 90,3
  Germany (Rank 5) 856 750 -12,4
724.4 Spinning and other machines for textile processing, from 255.311 258.348 1,2
  Japan 74.961 61.771 -17,6
  Switzerland 36.203 57.814 59,7
  Germany (Rank 3) 64.086 46.545 -27,4
724.5 Weaving machines, from 121.860 179.424 47,2
  Japan 29.997 68.090 127,0
  PR China 31.305 53.706 71,6
  Italy 6.666 11.275 69,1
  Germany (Rank 6) 5.290 6.097 15,2
724.6 Auxiliary machines, from 30.953 36.801 18,9
  PR China 8.797 11.935 35,7
  Germany (Rank 2) 6.429 4.880 -24,1
  Japan 2.055 3.614 75,9
724.7 Machines for dying, washing, drying, from 61.620 64.825 5,2
  PR China 9.855 12.455 26,4
  Italy 14.867 11.527 -22,5
   Germany (Rank 3) 16.652 11.494 -31,0
724.8 Machines for leather processing and footwear manufacturing, incl. parts, from 5.854 8.722 49,0
  Italy 3.674 4.985 35,7
  PR China 1.542 2.338 51,6
  Finland k.A 192 k.A.
  Germany (Rank 5) 29 140 381,6
724.9 Parts for textile machines, from 3.996 5.760 44,2
  PR China 2.107 2.854 35,5
  Germany (Rank 2) 617 669 8,4
  Italy 528 661 25,3