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Separating microplastics Photo: H & M Foundation
22.05.2023

Soundwaves to separate microplastics from wastewater

The technology developed by The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) with the support of H&M Foundation, can separate microplastics from wastewater using soundwaves. Acousweep is a plug-and-play application. The technology can be easily transported and connected to any wastewater facility. If the technology is implemented at an industrial scale, it will have a significant impact on the fashion industry’s sustainable footprint.
 

The technology developed by The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) with the support of H&M Foundation, can separate microplastics from wastewater using soundwaves. Acousweep is a plug-and-play application. The technology can be easily transported and connected to any wastewater facility. If the technology is implemented at an industrial scale, it will have a significant impact on the fashion industry’s sustainable footprint.
 
Microplastic pollution is a globally established problem and a threat to ecosystems, animals, and people. Microplastics come from a variety of sources, including from larger plastic debris that degrades into smaller and smaller pieces, or microbeads in exfoliating health and beauty products, or cleansers such as toothpaste. According to the European Environment Agency the major source of oceanic microplastic pollution, about 16%-35% globally, comes from synthetic textiles. Professor Christine Loh, Chief Development Strategist at the Institute for the Environment, The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, agrees that this technology has great potential.

Microplastics typically refers to tiny plastic pieces or particles smaller than 5mm in diameter according to the definition of United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) and the European Union (EU). The new technology can separate microplastic fibre longer than 20 μm, which is 250 times smaller than the typical size. Unlike existing filtration processes, the system enables continuous water treatment and easy collection of microplastic fibres by virtue of its acoustic manipulation technique.

Acousweep utilises sweeping acoustic waves in a specially shaped chamber to physically trap and separate microplastic fibres from wastewater effectively. The whole process is merely a physical collection and separation. No chemical, solvent or biological additives are needed. The separated microplastics drip into a collection tank for further treatment, such as recycling. Acousweep, with a developing lab-scale treatment system of the capacity of 100L of water per hour, can be upscaled in industrial plants. The system can be installed in a container with a processing capacity up to 5-10T per hour. The containerised system can be easily transported and connected to the existing sewage outlets of the wastewater treatment system.
 
Process of Microplastic Fibre Separation:

  1. At one end of the chamber is a transducer that generates a sweeping acoustic wave at ultrasound frequencies. At the other end, there is a reflector, inside which sweeping acoustic waves are reflected and forms standing waves.
  2. When standing waves are applied to the particles in a fluid, an acoustic radiation force traps the particles.
  3. The standing waves then transfer the trapped particles to the reflector side; after that, particles concentrate at the apex of the reflector.
  4. At the apex is a needle valve which is controlled by a sensory system that monitors the concentration of microplastic fibres there. When the concentration is sufficiently high, the sensory system opens the needle valve to let the microplastic fibres drip into a collection tank.
  5. A high temperature can be applied to the collection tank to remove the water, leaving the fibres to agglomerate and form a large mass that can be easily dealt with in future treatment.

Green tech has just taken a leap forward in Hong Kong. Acousweep will help the garment and other industries to stop a highly damaging form of pollution. HKRITA used a new technique to remove the microplastics by using soundwave-based system, preventing them from getting into the sea and being ingested by sea life that can even be ingested by humans along the food chain. Acousweep has the capacity to revolutionize industry, says Professor Christine Loh, Chief Development Strategist at the Institute for the Environment, The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology.

 

Source:

The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA); H & M Foundation

Photo: Rostyslav Savchyn, Unsplash
22.03.2022

Again more Chinese company takeovers in Europe

  • Increase from 132 to 155 transactions - transaction value increases eightfold to 12.4 billion US dollars
  • Number of Chinese acquisitions in Germany rises from 28 to 35
  • UK most popular investment destination for Chinese companies followed by Germany

After the pandemic-related decline in Chinese company acquisitions in Europe in 2020, the number of transactions increased again in 2021: from 132 to 155. The transaction volume also increased: The value of investments and acquisitions has increased more than eightfold from $1.5 billion to $12.4 billion.

  • Increase from 132 to 155 transactions - transaction value increases eightfold to 12.4 billion US dollars
  • Number of Chinese acquisitions in Germany rises from 28 to 35
  • UK most popular investment destination for Chinese companies followed by Germany

After the pandemic-related decline in Chinese company acquisitions in Europe in 2020, the number of transactions increased again in 2021: from 132 to 155. The transaction volume also increased: The value of investments and acquisitions has increased more than eightfold from $1.5 billion to $12.4 billion.

Chinese investors also appeared more frequently again in Germany: After only 28 transactions by Chinese companies were counted in 2020, there were 35 of such investments or acquisitions in 2021. The investment volume rose from USD 0.4 billion to USD 2.0 billion. This figure does not include venture capital investments in German startups totaling USD 1.9 billion in 2021, in which Chinese companies were active as part of international investor groups.

These are the findings of a study by the audit and consulting firm EY, which examines investments by Chinese companies in Germany and Europe.

"Chinese companies remain cautious about investing in Europe overall," observes Yi Sun, partner and head of China Business Services in the Europe West region at EY. "One contributing factor is still the pandemic, which continued to cause disruptions in 2021 - partly because of mitigation measures such as travel restrictions, strict quarantine rules for people traveling to China from abroad, and lockdowns both in Europe and in China itself. Most Chinese companies that have already acquired companies abroad have been more concerned with restructuring in Europe in recent years rather than expanding further - especially in the automotive supply and machinery sectors."

According to Sun, the now high hurdles for foreign investments, especially in certain critical industries, as well as increasing competition from financial investors with strong capital, also had a dampening effect. "Purchase prices on the M&A market have risen sharply recently - in some cases, the Chinese interested parties didn't want to go along with that. Listed Chinese companies in particular fear putting pressure on their own share price with expensive acquisitions," Sun said. "In addition, some of the potential takeover candidates own production facilities or R&D centers in the US. In such cases, they may fear rejection by the Committee on Foreign Investment in the U.S. (CFIUS) - and potential Chinese bidders may not even be invited."

Declining interest in industrial companies
Traditional industrial companies continue to account for the majority of deals - especially in Germany: 12 of the 35 transactions in Germany and 30 of the 155 transactions in Europe took place in the industrial sector.

However, their number is declining: In 2020, 36 industrial transactions were counted across Europe. "Chinese investors are still interested in European automotive suppliers or mechanical engineering companies - but now more in the subsectors of electromobility, autonomous driving and high-tech materials," says Sun.

However, Yi Sun identifies a significant increase in interest elsewhere: "Chinese private equity funds and venture capitalists are becoming increasingly active. In Germany in particular, there were some very large investments in startups last year in which Chinese investors were significantly involved. In addition to German engineering skills, e-commerce expertise is increasingly in demand."

High tech/software companies accounted for 27 transactions across Europe last year (previous year: 20). "We see an increased interest in game developers and software programmers, for example. Especially the most active Chinese investor last year, Tencent, has recently become heavily involved in this segment," observes Sun.

The number of acquisitions and investments in the healthcare sector also increased: from 16 to 26 transactions. "The healthcare sector - whether pharma, biotech or medical technology - is increasingly becoming one of the most important target sectors for Chinese companies because there is a lot of pent-up demand in this sector in China, especially in research and development."

Great Britain replaces Germany as top destination in Europe
Most transactions were recorded in the UK last year. With 36 acquisitions and investments, the UK is just ahead of Germany (35 transactions) and well ahead of the third-placed Netherlands (13).

In the previous year, the order at the top was reversed: in 2020, Germany with 28 transactions was ahead of the UK with 21 deals.

"To the extent that the interest of Chinese investors is moving away from classic industrial companies toward technology, software and media companies, the target market of Great Britain is gaining in importance," says Sun. However, she is convinced that Germany remains an attractive market for Chinese investors: "Many Chinese companies have had good experiences with their investments in Germany in particular. In addition, there are now close and resilient ties between China and Germany at many levels. We will see more Chinese transactions in Germany in the coming months - especially when the impact of the pandemic on the economy subsides," Sun expects.

The largest investment in Europe last year was the sale of Philips' home appliances division to Hong Kong-based investment firm Hillhouse Capital for $4.4 billion.

The second largest transaction was Tencent's acquisition of the British developer studio Sumo Digital for US$1.1 billion, followed by China International Marine Containers' takeover of the Danish reefer container manufacturer Maersk Container Industry for also US$1.1 billion.

Study Design:

  • Sources: EY research, Thomson ONE, Merger Market, communications from the companies or consulting firms and law firms involved.
  • Acquisitions and investments originating from companies headquartered in China and Hong Kong or their subsidiaries were examined.
  • The target companies are headquartered in Europe and are operationally active.
  • Pure real estate transactions were not included.
  • The analysis also included transactions that had not yet been completed as of the reporting date of Feb. 17, 2022

Increasingly, Chinese investors are also participating in venture capital financing rounds, mostly as part of investor groups. In these cases, it is often not possible to determine the amount provided by the Chinese investor. Therefore, these transactions are included in the number of transactions but not in the total values.

Source:

Ernst & Young Global Limited (EYG)

(c) Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH
22.12.2020

Decade of Action: Texpertise Network launches further measures to implement the Sustainable Development Goals

Since 2019, the Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network has been working with the Conscious Fashion Campaign and the United Nations Office for Partnerships to bring the Sustainable Development Goals to all 58 textile events in the network worldwide. Numerous measures have already been implemented. Others are imminent.

Shortly before the start of the COVID-19 crisis, the UN Secretary-General Antonio Gutérrez hailed the start of the Decade of Action. As of 2020, the international community now has just ten years to achieve the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to which the UN Member States committed themselves in the 2030 Agenda. As part of the collaboration with the Conscious Fashion Campaign and the United Nations Office for Partnerships, the Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network will put the SDGs on the agenda of additional events in December, thus further supporting their implementation in the fashion and textile industry.

Since 2019, the Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network has been working with the Conscious Fashion Campaign and the United Nations Office for Partnerships to bring the Sustainable Development Goals to all 58 textile events in the network worldwide. Numerous measures have already been implemented. Others are imminent.

Shortly before the start of the COVID-19 crisis, the UN Secretary-General Antonio Gutérrez hailed the start of the Decade of Action. As of 2020, the international community now has just ten years to achieve the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) to which the UN Member States committed themselves in the 2030 Agenda. As part of the collaboration with the Conscious Fashion Campaign and the United Nations Office for Partnerships, the Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network will put the SDGs on the agenda of additional events in December, thus further supporting their implementation in the fashion and textile industry.

Virtual event “Discover the SDGs – To Power the Decade of Action”
From 1-30 December 2020, the Texpertise Network is taking part in the virtual learning experience “Discover the SDGs”, which was initiated by the Conscious Fashion Campaign in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships. The aim of the event is to strengthen the knowledge and commitment within the fashion industry that is needed to further support the Decade of Action to deliver the Sustainable Development Goals. One component of the event is a virtual and interactive exhibition on the 17 goals, as well as on-demand discussions with industry leaders, United Nations representatives and advocates of the United Nations, including Detlef Braun, Member of the Executive Board, and Thimo Schwenzfeier, Director Marketing Communications Textiles and Textile Technologies at Messe Frankfurt, as well as from Kering, Lenzing, Allbirds, Arch and Hook, Artistic Milliners, Orta, ITL, Vogue Business, CFDA, Collina Strada and the Swarovski Foundation.

“This is a critical time to accelerate partnerships to address the world's biggest challenges – from eliminating poverty, hunger and inequalities to reversing climate change and unsustainable consumption and production practices,” said Annemarie Hou, acting Executive Director of the United Nations Office for Partnerships. “The fashion industry is an important ally for the United Nations in this Decade of Action to deliver the SDGs by 2030.”

Conscious Fashion Campaign becomes a presenting partner of Frankfurt Fashion Week
Joining forces to improve the fashion industry: Frankfurt Fashion Week is positioning itself as the host of the future of fashion and actively driving forward the transformation towards a future-oriented, more sustainable fashion and textile industry. All decision-makers looking to instigate this change will be coming together in Frankfurt am Main from 5-9 July 2021. The initiators of Frankfurt Fashion Week – Messe Frankfurt and the Premium Group – have achieved a real coup: Conscious Fashion Campaign, working in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, will be the presenting partner. Messe Frankfurt will build on its collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships. The Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) will be a prerequisite for exhibitors by 2023. And the Frankfurt Fashion SDG Summit by CFC is set to become the leading international conference for sustainability in the fashion world.

Expansion of internal sustainability communication
17 goals, 58 textile events worldwide, around 600,000 visitors and 23,000 exhibitors in 2019: with its global events, the Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network offers unique reach for supporting the SDGs, even during the corona pandemic. The participating subsidiary companies, sales partners and Messe Frankfurt partners abroad who organise the relevant events play an important role in this. To actively expand knowledge about and further commitment to the Sustainable Development Goals, the Texpertise Network is organising several online seminars, including for staff members in Argentina, Ethiopia, China, Hong Kong, India, Japan, Russia, South Africa and the USA and thus expanding its internal sustainability communication.

SDG actions up to now
Ever since the expanded collaboration between the Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network, the Conscious Fashion Campaign and the United Nations Office for Partnerships was announced at the UN headquarters in New York in December 2019, the international Messe Frankfurt textile events have implemented numerous measures to support the SDGs.

At the Messe Frankfurt textile events in Germany alone, a number of things came to fruition: the most recent physical and digital editions of Heimtextil, the leading trade fair for home and contract textiles and Neonyt, global hub for fashion, sustainability and innovation, offered panel discussions, press conferences and video messages, including with the Conscious Fashion Campaign and United Nations Office for Partnerships. An SDG Lounge in the Green Village at Heimtextil and selfie walls with the SDGs inspired exhibitors, visitors and influencers alike to engage with the 17 goals and share them on their social network channels. Podcasts were produced that can still be listened to on the Neonyt and Heimtextil channels and Neonyt also hosted e.g. the influencer challenge “Let's wear the goals!”.

A great deal has also already been achieved internationally: in March 2019, Neonyt organised a showcase with selected Neonyt brands to mark the foundation of the “UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion” in Nairobi. Techtextil India launched Techtextil NEXT at its 2019 edition, India’s first hackathon for technical textiles and sustainability. Among those who attended were Shrikar Dhole, founder and CEO of the SDG Foundation and Niharika Gautam, who campaigns for the achievement of the SDGs in the fashion industry and co-leads the fashion section of the All Ladies League Delhi. The Heimtextil Russia 2020 Digital Edition was able to attract a prominent figure to give a message of greeting, namely Vladimir Kuznetsov, head of the UN Information Centre (UNIC) in Moscow. The digital edition of Texworld USA (now Texworld New York City) and Apparel Sourcing USA in summer 2020 offered a talk by the Conscious Fashion Campaign and supported the production of a podcast with Claire Kells from the UN Global Compact.

With its SDG actions to date, Messe Frankfurt Texpertise Network is estimated to have reached around 146,000 visitors, 170,000 followers on social media channels and 65,000 subscribers to newsletters about participating events at home and abroad. Added to this is also the approx. 2.5 million followers of the influencers involved in the actions.

TECHNICAL TEXTILES CONTINUE STEDAY RISE IN SHARE OF TOTAL EU TEXTILE PRODUCTION Foto: Gerd Altmann, Pixabay
26.11.2019

TECHNICAL TEXTILES CONTINUE STEDAY RISE IN SHARE OF TOTAL EU TEXTILE PRODUCTION

  • European Textile and Clothing Sector consolidates satisfactory evolution in 2018

The EU textile and Clothing industry finished the year 2018 with a consolidation of the positive key figures achieved over the last 5 years. First data published by Eurostat enhanced by EURATEX’s own calculations and estimates show a total industry turnover of € 178 billion, a minimal increase to last year’s € 177.6 billion, but significantly above the 2013 figure of € 163.8 billion. Investments of € 5.0 billion again increased slightly, as they did every year since 2013.

Employment of 1.66 million registered a small dip compared to 2017 but remained essentially unchanged over the last 5 years – a remarkable achievement for a sector that keeps realizing labour efficiencies. As a result, the average turnover per employee has increased from 97,000 € in 2013 to 107,000 € in 2018. Over the last 10 years, turnover and value-added per employee have increased by over 30%.

  • European Textile and Clothing Sector consolidates satisfactory evolution in 2018

The EU textile and Clothing industry finished the year 2018 with a consolidation of the positive key figures achieved over the last 5 years. First data published by Eurostat enhanced by EURATEX’s own calculations and estimates show a total industry turnover of € 178 billion, a minimal increase to last year’s € 177.6 billion, but significantly above the 2013 figure of € 163.8 billion. Investments of € 5.0 billion again increased slightly, as they did every year since 2013.

Employment of 1.66 million registered a small dip compared to 2017 but remained essentially unchanged over the last 5 years – a remarkable achievement for a sector that keeps realizing labour efficiencies. As a result, the average turnover per employee has increased from 97,000 € in 2013 to 107,000 € in 2018. Over the last 10 years, turnover and value-added per employee have increased by over 30%.

The brightest spot again is the export figure, which grew by 7% compared to last year and for the first time reached € 50 billion. The industry’s extra-EU exports which now stand at 28% of annual turnover, up from less than 20% 10 years ago, is the clearest proof of the increasing global competitiveness of Europe’s textile and clothing companies.

European high quality textiles and premium fashion products are in growing demand, both in high income countries such as the United States (our biggest export destination in non-European countries with € 6 billion), Switzerland, Japan or Canada, but also emerging countries such as China and Hong Kong (over € 6.7 billion in combined exports), Russia, Turkey and the Middle-East.

European exports benefit from faster economic growth in many non-European markets, but also from better market access as a result of successful EU trade negotiations with countries such as South Korea, Canada or Japan.

Since 2015, export growth has slightly outpaced import growth, which means that our trade deficit of approximately € 65 billion has stopped widening. Rather than an absolute import growth, recent  years have brought important shifts in the main import countries. While China remains by far the number one import source, lower cost countries such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, Myanmar and Vietnam have gained in relative importance, especially for clothing.

Technical textiles are an undisputed success story of the European industry. Exact figures for this part of the industry are difficult to compute due to the dual use of many yarns and fabrics for both technical and conventional applications. National statistics become available only with a significant time lag or remain unpublished for smaller EU countries. For 2016, EURATEX estimates that EU industry turnover of technical textiles, (including yarn-type, fabric-type and non-woven materials but excluding any made-up articles) reached about € 24 billion or 27% of total textile industry turnover. Over the years this percentage has steadily grown and is expected to continue to do so in the future.

Italy and Germany are Europe’s biggest producers of technical textiles, each producing over € 4.5 billion worth of technical textiles per year. The highest share for technical textiles in national textile turnover is registered in Scandinavian countries such as Sweden and Finland and central European countries such as Germany, the Czech Republic or Slovenia. The fastest growth of technical textiles over the last 10 years has been achieved by Poland, followed by Belgium, Austria and Portugal. This clearly demonstrates that technical textiles are gaining in importance all over Europe.

Labour productivity is much higher in the technical textiles part of the industry. Turnover per employee stands at € 215,000, more than twice the average textile and clothing industry rate. In this regard, EURATEX Innovation & Skills Director Lutz Walter indicates how “innovation and employee expertise are fundamental to reach and defend the strong technical textile position of the EU industry”.

In terms of international trade, both exports and imports of technical textiles have grown continuously over the years, with an almost zero trade balance in Euro terms. However, when looking into the product category types, it is clear that Europe’s trade balance is massively positive in higher added value products such as medical textiles, highly technical finished fabrics and non-wovens, but negative in such categories as bags, sacks, tarpaulins or cleaning cloths.

Again the United States is Europe’s largest technical textiles customer, followed by China, which has registered very fast growth in recent years.

 

More information:
Euratex Technical Textiles
Source:

EURATEX

© Koelnmesse GmbH, Kind + Jugend
23.07.2019

KIND + JUGEND 2019: ONCE AGAIN AROUND 1,200 PROVIDERS FROM MORE THAN 50 COUNTRIES

  • For the first time with a Start-up Area
  • More than 200 applications for the Innovation Award
  • New concept for The Connected Kidsroom
  • Kids Design Award
  • Design Parc
  • Trend Forum with concentrated lectures

 
Kind + Jugend in Cologne: it is not only the most important and most international business and communication platform of the baby and toddler outfitting industry. It is surely also the world's most inspiring and cheerful event for this theme. For the coming trade fair from 19 to 22 September 2019, around 1,200 providers from more than 50 countries will present an almost complete overview of the latest trends and products for the first baby and toddler years.

  • For the first time with a Start-up Area
  • More than 200 applications for the Innovation Award
  • New concept for The Connected Kidsroom
  • Kids Design Award
  • Design Parc
  • Trend Forum with concentrated lectures

 
Kind + Jugend in Cologne: it is not only the most important and most international business and communication platform of the baby and toddler outfitting industry. It is surely also the world's most inspiring and cheerful event for this theme. For the coming trade fair from 19 to 22 September 2019, around 1,200 providers from more than 50 countries will present an almost complete overview of the latest trends and products for the first baby and toddler years.

As usual, top, smaller and medium-sized companies will explore the extensive bandwidth of the theme worlds. These include the baby carriage, children's car seat, children's furniture, textile and care outfitting, hygiene item, safety and networked electronics, as well as educational toys and toys sections. The trademarks of the exhibitors and thus also of the trade fair are the high quality requirements for the products and concepts shown, as well as the wealth of innovations presented.

The theme of sustainability is also proving to be a growing trend. Kind + Jugend is also offering the manufacturers of textiles a special listing service for the first time this year. The event programme at Kind + Jugend, with award ceremonies, special events and impulse lectures on the most important themes also plays a central role for the representation and mediating of trends.

Among the key players exhibiting at Kind + Jugend 2019 are ABC Design, Angelcare, Artsana/Chicco, Babybjörn, Babymoov, bibi/Lamprecht, Bébécar, Brevi, Britax Römer, Cam il mondo, Cybex, Delta Children, Diono, Dorel, Doudou et Compagnie, Ergobaby, Easywalker, Foppapedretti, Geuther, Haba, Hartan, Hauck, HTS Besafe, iCandy, Infantino, Jané/Concord, Joie/Nuna, Joolz, Julius Zöllner, Kaloo/Juratoys, Lässig, Leander, Mayborn/tommee-tippee, Melissa&Doug, Micuna, Munchkin, Mutsy, Nattou, Newell, Nuby, Odenwälder, Paidi, Peg Perego, Pinolino, reer, Roba Baumann, rotho, Schardt, Sauthon, Sterntaler, Thule, Tobi, Uppababy and Vulli.. New exhibitors or returnees in 2019 once again include Bugaboo, Mattel and Silver Cross. Among the new companies at Kind + Jugend 2019 are APOLO Baby from Japan, Felice from Italy or Warmbebe from France.

The share of foreign exhibitors is once again impressive. Around 85 percent of exhibitors come from abroad, with strong participation of German manufacturers on the whole. Especially well-represented are exhibitors from the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, the USA, France, Spain and Poland. Belgium and Denmark are also in place with large-scale participation. Asian providers also have their fixed place at the trade fair, China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Korea especially worthy of mention. In addition to this, around 20 companies from Australia exhibit regularly.

The foreign share of visitors is also very high at 75% and spans the globe. In 2018, the trade visitors came to Kind + Jugend in Cologne from 125 countries. Besides Germany, the European nations also take the lead here. Asian, Eastern European and North American buyers were also strongly represented at the trade fair. Visitors come from all segments of the trade: from the specialised and wholesale trade to department stores and chemist's shops, as well as the various online commerce channels.

Kind + Jugend once again covers all levels of halls 10 and 11, as well as hall 4.1, and thus spans a gross exhibition surface of 110,000 m². The clear hall structure with two entrances makes it easier for visitors to orient themselves and clusters the trade fair offerings in clearly defined theme areas. Vistors can prepare for the trade fair especially well with the help of the exhibitor database. On the grounds, the practical trade fair app assists in the search for exhibitors, products and brands. Familiar and new special events, as well as the much appreciated award ceremonies and the trend forum with expert lectures bring out the main points of the trade fair happenings.
 
For the first time: Start-up Area at Kind + Jugend

For the first time, Kind + Jugend is offering young, international companies the opportunity to present themselves in the context of a Start-up Area at favourable conditions. Sixteen providers from six countries will take advantage of the opportunity to exhibit at the world's leading trade fair for the baby and toddler outfitting industry at favourable conditions. The 16 start-ups come from Australia, Germany, France, Italy, Japan and the Netherlands. Their products suit the theme worlds of Kind + Jugend extremely well and extend from a sustainable diaper system through digital measuring devices for child care to exclusive accessories for mothers and children, as well as children's furniture for learning and playing. (Hall 11.1, B50 – C59)

Sustainability and environmental awareness are the trend. Joint action together with BTE for the first time.
Together with the German Textile Trade Association (BTE), which is also a member of the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles, we will separately list those exhibitors who can attest to the sustainable production of their exhibited textiles by means of recognised seals of approval and/or other certificates. The recognised seals include, for example, GOTS, Oekotex, bluesign or Made in Green. The BTE assumes responsibility for the formal examination of the submissions. The list of manufacturers showing sustainable textiles at the trade fair will be available at the Kind + Jugend website, so that trade fair visitors can plan their tour with a focus on this area of interest.

The Connected Kidsroom
Since 2017, the The Connected Kidsroom special event has drawn attention to digital and smart products or concepts for the outfitting of nurseries and children's rooms. The theme will also receive special attention this year with a new concept. Attractively integrated into a complete children's room with furniture, doors and windows, the special event shows the various products that control technical functions, measure values like the temperature or pulse of the child, regulate climatic room conditions, register movement and much more. All products are already available in retail outlets. In order to be able to represent the functions even more informatively for trade fair visitors, an expert will be on location to demonstrate the applications, provide explanations and answer questions. (Hall 11.2, E21)

Innovation Award
More than 200 applications for the Kind + Jugend Innovation Award have been submitted this year for evaluation by a jury of trade journalists and health experts, a new record. Following intensive consultation, the jury nominates a selection of products for a special event that is regularly one of the crowd pullers at Kind + Jugend. The Innovation Awards are then presented to the eight winners in eight categories on the first day of the trade fair. The award is the most important recognition of innovations in the baby and toddler sector, and is also highly respected outside of the industry.

Kids Design Award
The Kids Design Award promotes products and concepts that distinguish themselves through special design, but are not yet commercially available. The ten best designs of the competition, which Kind + Jugend tenders in advance of the trade fair with a particular view to young designers, are shown in an attractive special area. The winner of the Kids Design Award will also be honoured on the first day of the trade fair (Hall 11.1, D40/E49)

Design Parc
Design has a high standing at Kind + Jugend. International design products that are ready for the market therefore appear in the special event of the Design Parc, which shows select products and furniture – from children's beds to play kitchens and dishes suitable for children. (Hall 11.1, C40 - D59)

Trendforum
The stage of the Trend Forum can once again be found in hall 11.1 this year. Not only are the Innovation Award and the Kids Design Award presented on the first day. All those interested can look forward to a high quality expert lecture program on the first three days of the trade fair. The trend researchers from GfK, Trendbible and The Insights People will once again present market data, as well as trends and tendencies from a global perspective. The German association of children's outfitting manufacturers (BDKH) is also participating once again, this time with a focus on the theme of the children's car seat. (Hall 11.1, E50/F59).

PIXABAY
04.12.2018

CLOTHING INDUSTRY IN CAMBODIA WITH UNCERTAIN OUTLOOK

  • Exports rise in the country's most important industrial sector.

Phnom Penh (GTAI) - Cambodia's clothing exports are growing steadily. However, two factors cloud the prospects for the future.

Cambodia's garment industry is the backbone of the Kingdom's export-oriented economy. Industry exports account for around 40 percent of the gross domestic product (GDP). More than 800,000 Cambodians are employed in over 800 companies. That is more than 85 percent of all factory workers in the country.

Apparel and footwear exports reached USD 8.0 billion in 2017, according to Cambodian customs. This represented an increase of 9.6 percent compared with 2016. Proud growth rates between 7 and almost 15 percent were already achieved in previous years. GTAI estimates on the basis of partner countries' imports an even higher export volume of around USD 12 billion.

  • Exports rise in the country's most important industrial sector.

Phnom Penh (GTAI) - Cambodia's clothing exports are growing steadily. However, two factors cloud the prospects for the future.

Cambodia's garment industry is the backbone of the Kingdom's export-oriented economy. Industry exports account for around 40 percent of the gross domestic product (GDP). More than 800,000 Cambodians are employed in over 800 companies. That is more than 85 percent of all factory workers in the country.

Apparel and footwear exports reached USD 8.0 billion in 2017, according to Cambodian customs. This represented an increase of 9.6 percent compared with 2016. Proud growth rates between 7 and almost 15 percent were already achieved in previous years. GTAI estimates on the basis of partner countries' imports an even higher export volume of around USD 12 billion.

More than 70 percent of the country's total exports of goods regularly come from the sector. Shoes accounted for exports of USD 873 million (+14.4 percent) in 2017. Foreign business with shoes has been improving for some years now and has been able to increase its share of exports to over 10 percent. With an unchanged share of 46 percent compared to the previous year, the EU continued to play a major role among the customers in 2017, followed by the USA with 24 percent.

The value-added volume of the sector is low and the road to an integrated textile industry in Cambodia is still long. Machines, raw materials and design come from abroad in the form of a CMT model ("Cut Make Trim"). Fabrics, yarns and haberdashery have to be imported in order to keep the local clothing industry "on the runway". In 2016, according to the United Nations Comtrade Database, USD 4.1 billion worth of textiles came into the country for processing - about 60 percent of which came from China. Textile imports have risen proportionally to clothing exports in recent years.

The garment industry is dominated by foreign companies, mostly from the Asian neighborhood China, Hong Kong (SVR), Singapore, Malaysia or South Korea. Many manufacturers produce to order for multinational brands such as Adidas, Puma, Gap, H&M, Marks & Spencer or Uniqlo. In principle, the complete contract manufacturing is intended for export.

Rising wages fuel fear of competition
After years of growth the sector is looking to the future with concern. The country is increasingly in danger of losing market share to its competitors - for example in Myanmar, Vietnam or Bangladesh - primarily due to rising wage costs. In January 2018, the monthly minimum wage for workers was raised to USD 170, up from USD 153. Compared to 2013, when a minimum of USD 80 was required by law, there has now been more than a doubling.

The annual agenda included regular increases of around 10 percent. According to the Cambodia Garment and Footwear Sector Bulletin of the International Labor Organization (ILO), workers who worked the full month, including overtime payments and incentives, were paid an average wage of just under USD 243 in 2017. Last year, it was USD 225.

In the past, low wages were mainly responsible for the attractiveness and competitiveness of Cambodian industry. This advantage is crumbling year after year as a result of the increase of minimum wages. An end to this politically motivated development is not in sight. The government can imagine, referring to expert recommendations, that minimum wages will be raised to USD 250 per month by 2023.

If the trend continues, companies are likely to migrate and not too many new investors will pitch their tents in Cambodia, critics warn. In 2017, sector companies invested nearly USD 270 million in 55 projects. This represented 5 per cent of the Kingdom's total investments. In the previous year, this share had been 9 percent.

Industry representatives complain that the costs grow faster than the productivity. Automation of production processes is becoming more and more urgent in order to keep up with productivity. However, both the lack of skilled workers and an infrastructure in need of improvement are serious bottleneck factors. There are also critics who are generally pessimistic about a possible automation in the sector. Cambodia could only score points through low labor cost advantages. Automated mass production is reserved for countries that have a reliable and cost-effective power supply and are closer to the sales markets.

Will the trade routes to the EU remain free?
Even more worrying would be the EU's cancellation of the preferential trading system EBA ("Everything But Arms"). Finally, the exemption of Cambodian clothing from customs duties is at stake on the main market. A discontinuation is likely to trigger a wave of migration of the clothing industry. Quite a few companies have taken the EBA initiative alone as an opportunity to establish themselves in the Kingdom.

In addition, the view wanders across the border to Vietnam. Manufacturers there could soon benefit from a free trade agreement with the EU. Vietnam is also participating at the Asia-Pacific Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans Pacific Partnership (CPTPP), while Cambodia remains outside. If the trade arrangements remain unchanged, Cambodia may get off with a black eye. However, the other factors should not be ignored. Transport and general export costs are also considered comparatively high compared with Vietnam or China.

Cambodian exporters are currently benefiting from the trade dispute between the USA and China. The National Bank of Cambodia (NBC) semi-annual report supports this assumption. According to the study, apparel and footwear exports rose by 11 percent in the first six months of 2018 compared to the same period of last year to reach a volume of USD 4 billion. Since July 2016, clothing, shoes and travel goods (suitcases, bags, etc.) can be delivered duty-free to the USA. According to the Garment Manufacturers Association of Cambodia (GMAC), shipments of travel goods to the USA in the first half of 2018 reached an amount of around USD 160 million - three times the previous annual exports.

Cambodia's imports of textile machinery amounted to USD 127.3 million (SITC 724) in 2017 according to the UN Comtrade database. This was 11.4 percent more than in the previous year. About 60 percent of the capital goods came from China; the remaining deliveries are relatively evenly distributed among other Asian countries. German deliveries only appear very sparsely in the statistics. Used machines from abroad are more likely to be in demand, but are not recorded statistically.

More information:
cambodja Asien GTAI
Source:

Michael Sauermost, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

Photo: Pixabay
04.09.2018

HONG KONG COMPANIES ARE WITHDRAWING PRODUCTION FROM CHINA

  • Capacities are relocated to Southeast Asia

Hong Kong (GTAI) - Thanks to President Trump, the emigration trend from the PRC is getting an additional boost. As far as logistics companies are concerned, Beijing is getting increasingly worried.

Already a decade or so ago, China began to relocate production facilities. As wages increased in the rich coastal cities, more and more companies were forced to move their factories inland or to so-called low-wage countries. There salaries, but also land, were more affordable. The environmental requirements were meanwhile laxer too.

The southern Chinese Pearl River Delta - probably the largest industrial settlement in the world - also felt this trend. In the 1980s and 1990s, investors from neighboring Hong Kong had outsourced virtually all of the industrial production of the Special Administrative Region (SVR) there. But around 2008/09, there came a change of opinion. 

  • Capacities are relocated to Southeast Asia

Hong Kong (GTAI) - Thanks to President Trump, the emigration trend from the PRC is getting an additional boost. As far as logistics companies are concerned, Beijing is getting increasingly worried.

Already a decade or so ago, China began to relocate production facilities. As wages increased in the rich coastal cities, more and more companies were forced to move their factories inland or to so-called low-wage countries. There salaries, but also land, were more affordable. The environmental requirements were meanwhile laxer too.

The southern Chinese Pearl River Delta - probably the largest industrial settlement in the world - also felt this trend. In the 1980s and 1990s, investors from neighboring Hong Kong had outsourced virtually all of the industrial production of the Special Administrative Region (SVR) there. But around 2008/09, there came a change of opinion. 

In addition to cost pressures, they got headwind from local governments. In booming cities like Shenzhen, where land was becoming increasingly scarce, light industry companies were no longer welcome. Also polluting and power-consuming industries, such as the production of ceramics, were moved out with more or less gentle pressure.

Companies pursue hybrid strategy
Many companies followed a hybrid strategy. The production of higher quality items  remained in the Pearl River delta, which has recently became named as the Greater Bay Area. The production of mass products, on the other hand, was shifted to cheaper locations. Some manufacturers went to Southeast Asia. Especially in Vietnam many companies found a new home.

This relocation process has been steadily progressing ever since. With the ever-widening trade conflict between the People's Republic of China and the US, it now receives additional impetus. Many investors have been shifting parts of their production from their Chinese production cities to their Southeastern Asian factories since the announcement, at the latest since the introduction of the first tariffs.

This is possible in the short term and to a limited extent, initially without major investments, as long there is still enough free manufacturing capacity in the ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations). That should be true in most cases. In addition, in the second half of 2018, investors will also withdraw production equipment such as machines from China and send them to Southeast Asia.

Relocation preferably to Vietnam, Malaysia and Laos
At the end of July 2018, the Hong Kong-listed carrier Kerry Logistics reported in the South China Morning Post that its business had noticeably picked up as a result of the trade dispute. The customers would relocate production steps especially to Malaysia, Vietnam and Laos. In the aforementioned countries, an increase in export activity is expected in the second half of 2018.

According to the president of the Hong Kong Young Industrialists Council, the member companies are relocating their production mainly to Malaysia and Vietnam in order to avoid rising costs and the tariff conflict. The CEO of the Hong Kong fashion producer Lever Style told reporters that already now only 50 percent of its production comes from the People's Republic of China. Eight years ago, the quota was still at 100 percent.

This so-called "China Plus One" strategy is therefore a natural development. The companies pursue it for years not only for cost reasons, but also to spread their risk, which now turns out to be the right good one. For China this development is not threatening at this time. The country is aiming for a permanent higher positioning of its industry anyway. As part of the "Made in China 2025" strategy, the People's Republic wants to become the technological world leader even in ten sectors.

But if the accelerated relocation process increases unemployment and stutters the economy, Beijing may be come under pressure. The negative effects of the trade conflict are already being felt. Stock prices plummeted and the Chinese yuan lost significant in value against the US dollar, what could trigger a capital flight.

Source:

Roland Rhode, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de 

Texcare Asia and China Laundry Expo (c) Messe Frankfurt (Shanghai) Co Ltd
07.08.2018

TEXCARE ASIA AND CHINA LAUNDRY EXPO TO MERGE – CREATING ASIA’S LARGEST EXHIBITION FOR LAUNDRY EQUIPMENT AND TECHNOLOGY

As disclosed in an agreement signed on 18 July 2018 by the organisers of Texcare Asia and the China Laundry Expo, the two trade fairs will merge into a single show in a win-win arrangement to integrate industry resources.
 
The new joint-venture fair will be the largest annual industry event covering the textile care and laundry chain in Asia. The first edition will take place in September 2019 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre and will be jointly organised by Messe Frankfurt (Shanghai) Co Ltd, Unifair Exhibition Service Co Ltd, the China Laundry Association, and the China Light Machinery Association.  
 

As disclosed in an agreement signed on 18 July 2018 by the organisers of Texcare Asia and the China Laundry Expo, the two trade fairs will merge into a single show in a win-win arrangement to integrate industry resources.
 
The new joint-venture fair will be the largest annual industry event covering the textile care and laundry chain in Asia. The first edition will take place in September 2019 at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre and will be jointly organised by Messe Frankfurt (Shanghai) Co Ltd, Unifair Exhibition Service Co Ltd, the China Laundry Association, and the China Light Machinery Association.  
 
Mr Wolfgang Marzin, President and CEO of Messe Frankfurt Group, said: “The merger is fantastic news for the textile care industry in Asia as a whole and also for the Messe Frankfurt Group. By integrating Texcare Asia’s extensive resources with those of the China Laundry Expo, we will provide a larger and more complete platform for the industry to converge upon. The new show will provide coverage across the entire supply chain, including dry cleaning, dyeing, detergent and disinfecting chemicals, leather care, textile rental, digital solutions and much more.”
 
Ms Xiuping Han, General Manager of China Unifair Exhibition Services Co Ltd added: “The laundry industry in China faces numerous challenges, such as the tightening of sewage treatment and disposal regulations, while opportunities are also arising in the form of increased demand for energy saving technologies. By merging the China Laundry Expo and Texcare Asia under a single banner, we will provide an ideal platform to facilitate industry development and address these challenges and opportunities.”   
 
The annual China Laundry Expo was founded in 2000 and is held on a rotating basis between Beijing and Shanghai. Organised by the China Laundry Association and Unifair Exhibition Services Co Ltd, the show receives significant government and commercial sector backing. The 19th edition is held at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre over the next three days and will play host to more than 220 exhibitors representing around 500 brands from over 10 countries and regions. The fair is also expecting to welcome over 20,000 trade and industry visitors to an impressive 23,000 sqm of exhibition space.   

Key product categories of the China Laundry Expo include laundry equipment, accessories, chemicals, consumables, leather care products, energy-saving and environmental protection equipment, informationbased intelligent products and solutions, and much more. Not only do these product categories cater to the purchasing demands of visitors around the globe, but the strong variety also serves to attract more suppliers and industry players.
 
With a similar focus to the China Laundry Expo, Texcare Asia made its debut in Singapore in 1998 and was introduced to Hong Kong in 2002. The fair then move to China in 2005 in Beijing and has been located in Shanghai since 2013. With the strong international network and industry support from the mother fair, Texcare International, the China event is now recognised as Asia’s biggest laundry and dry-cleaning show. It has served as a biennial meeting point for textile care manufacturers, suppliers and professionals to network, trade, conduct business, and catch up with industry developments.   
 
The fair also holds a unique position as a platform for providers of textile rental services, training services for institutions, and machinery for the cleaning of carpets, floor coverings, upholstery and buildings. By combining product groups from the China Laundry Expo with those of Texcare Asia, the merged platform promises to deliver a comprehensive value added experience for its customers and visitors.  
 
The expanded product portfolio and merging of resources mean that the newly merged show is predicted to attract an impressive 300 exhibitors and 25,000 industry visitors across 30,000 sqm of floor space when it opens its doors in September 2019.   
 
For further details, please visit www.texcare-asia.com, or contact texcareasia@china.messefrankfurt.com.

Hong Kong Photo: Pixabay
17.07.2018

CHINESE ALIBABA GROUP BUILDS LOGISTICS CENTER IN HONG KONG

  • Investment costs of USD 1.5 billion
  • State-of-the-art technology to be used

Hong Kong (GTAI) - Chinese e-commerce giant Alibaba wants to build up a global sales network. The Hong Kong Special Administra-tive Region (SAR) plays an important role in its strategy. A 380,000 square meter logistics center is to be built there, in which state-of-the-art warehouse and robot technology will be used. According to the plan, it will be operational by 2023. Foreign specialist suppliers can hope for orders.

The Chinese Alibaba Group is the largest e-commerce provider in the country. Now it wants to ex-pand into other markets. According to the company announcement, more than USD 1.5 billion are to be invested in the development of a worldwide distribution and logistics network.

  • Investment costs of USD 1.5 billion
  • State-of-the-art technology to be used

Hong Kong (GTAI) - Chinese e-commerce giant Alibaba wants to build up a global sales network. The Hong Kong Special Administra-tive Region (SAR) plays an important role in its strategy. A 380,000 square meter logistics center is to be built there, in which state-of-the-art warehouse and robot technology will be used. According to the plan, it will be operational by 2023. Foreign specialist suppliers can hope for orders.

The Chinese Alibaba Group is the largest e-commerce provider in the country. Now it wants to ex-pand into other markets. According to the company announcement, more than USD 1.5 billion are to be invested in the development of a worldwide distribution and logistics network.

The Small Special Administrative Region (SVR) plays a deciding role in its expansion strategy. It is home of the largest cargo airport in the world. According to the Hong Kong Civil Aviation Department, the volume there amounted to almost 5 million tons in 2017. According to the prognosis of the Airport Authority, the state operator, it should reach almost 9 million tons by 2030.

Hong Kong offers decisive locational advantages for international logistics groups and e-commerce providers. According to calculations by the Air-port Authority, around half of the world's population can be reached within five flight hours. As there are no customs duties or VAT and the SVR has an efficient bureaucracy, a fast dispatch is practically guaranteed. This fits into Alibaba's strategy, as the group wants to limit the delivery time for or-ders from abroad to a maximum of 72 hours.

Handling capacity of up to 1.7 million tons of freight
The e-commerce giant therefore wants to set up one of its worldwide distribution centers in Hong Kong via its logistics arm called Cainiao - others are planned in Hangzhou, Dubai, Kuala Lumpur, Liège and Moscow. It should get a size of around 380,000 square meters in size and will be able to handle a maximum of 1.7 million tons of freight. The corresponding investment costs will summarize to around USD 1.5 billion. It is scheduled to go into operation by 2023.

The group informed through the South China Morning Post (which it owns) that the new logistics center will be equipped with state-of-the-art technology. An automatic warehouse and highly efficient air conditioning are planned. According to industry experts, artificial intelligence-based systems and numerous robots will be used.

The project should thus also generate business opportunities for foreign suppliers of building and storage technology. There are hardly any sector manufacturers in Hong Kong itself. There are corresponding producers in China. However, they cannot always offer the most modern and best products and services available on the market. Particularly there is a pent-up demand for software.

Contact addresses
Designation Internet address Note
Alibaba https://www.alibabagroup.com/en/news/article?news=p180606 (homepage); https://www.alibabagroup.com/en/news/article?news=p180606 (project press release) Biggest e-commerce pro-vider in China
South China Morning Post http://www.scmp.com/frontpage/international (homepage); http://www.scmp.com/tech/enterprises/article/2149561/alibaba-affiliate-cainiao-forms-jv-build-us15-billion-logistics
(project review)
Renowned English-language newspaper. Be-longs to Alibaba
Civil Aviation Department https://www.cad.gov.hk/english/home.html (homepage)
https://www.cad.gov.hk/english/facts_statstics.html
(Hong Kong Air Traffic Statistics)
Supreme Aviation Authority Hong Kong

 

Further information
For more information on Hong Kong's economy, industries, business practices, law, customs, tenders, and development projects, visit http://www.gtai.com/hongkong.
The page http://www.gtai.de/asien-pazifik offers an overview of various topics in the region.

Source:

Roland Rohde, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

Industry Check in Asia Photo: Pixabay
19.06.2018

TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY IN ASIA: GTAI CHECKING THE SECTOR

Every day, GTAI experts observe and analyze the development of the most important German export industries on the world markets. Here you will find summarized information on the textile and clothing industry in Asian markets.
 
GTAI Industry Check - Vietnam
Textile and clothing industry: Vietnam needs more than sewing

Every day, GTAI experts observe and analyze the development of the most important German export industries on the world markets. Here you will find summarized information on the textile and clothing industry in Asian markets.
 
GTAI Industry Check - Vietnam
Textile and clothing industry: Vietnam needs more than sewing
The textile and clothing industry is one of the most important pillars of the Vietnamese industry and accounted for around 6 percent of total exports in 2017 with exports amounting to USD 26 billion. For 2018, the industry is aiming for growth of 7 to 8 percent and exports are expected to rise to over USD 33 billion. In order to comply with the rules of origin of the free trade agreements concluded by Vietnam, the country must achieve a higher added value. Domestic companies such as the Vinatex Group or Garco10, but also foreign companies are increasingly investing in technical innovations and expanding processes such as spinning, weaving and dyeing upstream of pure sewing. In addition, the first companies are beginning to automate their production processes.

GTAI Industry Check - Uzbekistan
Textile and clothing industry: Investments of more than USD 2 billion planned
The industry program for 2017 to 2020 lists around 130 projects with a total value of USD 2 billion. About half of the planned investments are to be
accounted for foreign commitments. The aim is to double the annual output of finished textile products during this period. With an annual production of more than 3 million tons of raw cotton, Uzbekistan is one of the world's largest producers of the white gold. A second industry programme foresees the implementation of five projects for the production of raw silk, silk wadding and silk fabrics and finished silk products between 2018 and 2021. The minimum investments required are estimated at USD 26 million.
 
GTAI Industry Check – Myanmar
Textile and clothing industry: Export strength through low wages
The lifting of sanctions by the EU and the US has noticeably revived the investment climate in the sector, especially as this was linked to the reactivation of the EU's GSP import status (Generalized System of Preferences). Most investors came from China, Hong Kong, Taiwan or South Korea, and Western brands such as GAP, H & M, Primark or Marks & Spencer were also included. Currently, about 400,000 workers are employed in almost 400 factories, mostly geared to CMP (cut-make-pack), including 171 foreign investors and 22 joint ventures. According to the Myanmar Garment Entrepreneurs Association, exports are expected to have increased by 40 percent to over USD 3 billion by 2017. For the first time the largest customer was the European Union, primarily Germany, ahead of Japan and South Korea.

GTAI Industry Check – Georgian Republic
Textile and clothing industry: Several expansion projects planned
The apparel industry produces garments for up to USD 70 million annually. The main products manufactured are international brands for export. Several new projects in the industry are in preparation. For example, the Turkish jeans manufacturer Baykanlar Textil plans to build a factory for the production of brand jeans in Ozurgeti by the end of 2018. A total of USD 15 million will be invested in the project. The Romanian company MGMtex, a subsidiary of the Swiss company Ottorose, is planning to start production of branded clothing in Kutaisi in cooperation with a local partner. The investments for the first and second project phases amount to more than USD 1.5 million. For the procurement of equipment, the company benefits from subsidies from the state program Produce in Georgia.

GTAI Industry Check - Turkmenistan
Textile and Clothing Industry: Investments of around 300 million US dollars planned
The textile and clothing industry represents 20 percent of Turkmenistan's industrial production and 30 percent of its manufacturing industry. A good USD 300 million will be invested in 2018 to 2020/21. The project list includes the construction of a large textile complex for the annual processing of up to 5,000 tons of fine-fibred cotton into semi-finished and finished products. Start March 2021; contractor: Cotam Enterprises Ltd, British Virgin Islands/Turkey) and a factory for the annual production of 6,000 tons of cotton yarn (2019/20, Hilli yol), the modernization of a textile factory (Daschogus), a cotton spinning mill (Tachtabasar) and a factory for medical wadding and cosmetic cotton (Ashgabat; 2018/2019 each). The potential of medical textiles, cotton fabrics, man-made fibers and the processing of wool and cocoons is still little used.
 
GTAI Industry Check – Azerbaijan
Textile and clothing industry: Light industry business park attracts investors
Azerbaijan launched several projects to revive the industry (output in 2017: USD 100 million). An industrial park for light industry has been under construction in Mingachevir since autumn 2016. Nine new factories are planned for cotton, acrylic and woolen yarn, clothing, hosiery and leather shoes. The project is worth up to USD 150 million. The first factory for the annual production of 20,000 tons of yarn is under construction. Under the umbrella organization for the Azerkhalcha carpet weaving mill founded in 2016, ten further smaller factories will be put into operation in 2018. Gilan Textil Park, Sumqayit, wants to expand its exports of home textiles. In the medium term, the construction of a silk spinning mill with an annual capacity of 3,000 tons of yarn is also planned.
 
GTAI Industry Check - Armenia
Textile and clothing industry: interest from abroad increases
Rising exports of clothing to Russia and western markets lead to expect further investments in the textile and clothing industry in 2018. Italian investors are planning to build a large jersey factory in Kapan (Sjunik region). The company SASSTEX in Artik (Schirak region) invests in two factories for the production of fashion (ZARA brand) and workwear. The Egyptian Wassef Group is considering the production of cotton fabrics and products therefrom. Yerevan-based hosiery and children's apparel manufacturer Alex Textile will continue its USD 28 million investment program in 2018 to expand apparel and hosiery production at several sites in Armenia.

More information:
Asia Export
Source:

Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

RETAIL IN HONG KONG EXPECTS STRONG UPTURN Photo: Pixabay
27.03.2018

RETAIL IN HONG KONG EXPECTS STRONG UPTURN

  • Sales increase of 4 to 6 per cent targeted for 2018
  • Population favors traditional shopping experience

Hong Kong (GTAI) - Hong Kong's favorite pastime is shopping. Chinese tourists also visit the city just for shopping quite often. The demand for jewelry, watches and cosmetics in particular is booming. The retail sales of the Special Administrative Region (SVR) is expected to rise to around USD 60 billion in 2018. The status-conscious consumers prefer Italian and French luxury goods. German providers can score in certain categories.

  • Sales increase of 4 to 6 per cent targeted for 2018
  • Population favors traditional shopping experience

Hong Kong (GTAI) - Hong Kong's favorite pastime is shopping. Chinese tourists also visit the city just for shopping quite often. The demand for jewelry, watches and cosmetics in particular is booming. The retail sales of the Special Administrative Region (SVR) is expected to rise to around USD 60 billion in 2018. The status-conscious consumers prefer Italian and French luxury goods. German providers can score in certain categories.

The Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (SAR) retail sector experienced one of its worst years of recent history in 2016. According to the statistics office, sales shrank nominally by 8 percent compared to the previous year. On the one hand, domestic consumers showed themselves buttoned-up side in the face of a rather sluggish economy. Private consumption rose in real terms by just under 2 percent.
 
On the other hand, the number of foreign visitors decreased. The tourism authority counted around 57 million arrivals in 2016 only, which was almost 5 percent less than in 2015. Three quarters of the tourists traditionally come from the neighboring Chinese mainland and are particularly eager to buy. But in 2016, they restricted their purchases.

Domestic consumption rose in real terms by nearly 7 percent in the third quarter of 2017
However, the second half of 2017 brought the turnaround. The overall economy of SVR revived noticeably. Consumer spending in the third quarter increased by nearly 7 percent in real terms compared to the same period of the previous year. The number of tourists also rose again. From January to December, the authorities registered a growth of more than 3 percent.

Foreign visitor arrivals in Hong Kong (in millions)
Year Visitors
2014 60.8
2015 59.3
2016 56.7
2017 58.5
2018 *) 60.0

*) Forecast
Source: Hong Kong Tourism Board

Retail sales rose in 2017 as a result by just over 2 percent to more than USD 57 billion. Especially at the end of the year, business had developed very briskly. In the fourth quarter, revenues increased by nearly 6 percent compared to the same quarter of the previous year. That leaves the economic researchers hoping for 2018. The auditing company PWC, for example, expects a market growth of 4 to 6 percent. As a result, the total revenues should rise to around USD 60 billion. It would thus be on about the same level as in 2014, but only in nominal terms.

Hong Kong retail sales (in USD bn, change on year to year in %)
Year Value Change
2015 60.9 -3.7
2016 56.0 -8.1
2017 57.2 2.2
2018 *) about 60,0 4.0 to 6.0

*) Forecast
Source: 2014 til 2017: Hong Kong Statistical Office; 2018: PwC

The individual sectors of the retail trade developed very differently in 2017. The demand for electronic articles was weakening. But the business with jewelry, watches and cosmetics flourished. These are small and light goods, that Chinese tourists usually can take across the border without customs clearance. The equally lively sales of food and beverages as well as motor vehicles is mainly due to the greater spending pleasure of domestic consumers.

Retail sales in 2017, by product group
(in USD bn, year-on-year change in %)
Product group Value Change
Jewelry and Watches 9.6 3.4
Textiles 7.7 0.2
Medicine and Cosmetics 5.6 5.5
Food and Beverages 5.4 3.2
Electronic Articles 3.1 -9.0
Automotive, incl. parts 2.0 3.1
Furniture 0.9 2.2
Books and Stationery 0.9 1.0

Source: Hong Kong Statistical Office
 
For German providers of consumer goods, the former British colony is a not unattractive market. Although the population of 7.4 million is quite small, it has a gross domestic product (GDP) per capita that is at the level of Germany. Since there is virtually no manufacturing industry, almost all goods need to be imported. The Chinese tourists increase the volume of demand. In 2017 45 million visitors from the People's Republic came to Hong Kong. Many of them came just for one day, whose only goal was shopping.

German consumer goods are quite popular with both domestic consumers and Chinese tourists. However, there are big differences between the different sectors. Apparel, leather goods and cosmetics are dominated by French and Italian brands in the upper market segment. For furniture (especially kitchens) or stationery German suppliers however play a significant role. Also body care and food "Made in Germany" enjoy a great popularity.

Big chains dominate the market
The retail sector is predominantly in the hands of large corporations. In the food sector the chains Wellcome and ParknShop dominate, in the drugstore area Watsons and Mannings as well as in the electronics division Fortress and Broadway. The e-commerce however has undermined its dominant position a bit.
However - the population still prefers the traditional shopping experience. Purchasing via the Internet does not yet play a major role for the end customer as in other countries around the world. But it has changed the business in the B2B area. In the meantime restaurants and hotels mostly shop online.

Internet addresses
Name Internet address
Census and Statistics Department http://www.censtatd.gov.hk/home/index.jsp (Homepage); http://www.censtatd.gov.hk/hkstat/sub/sp320.jsp?tableID=089&ID=0&productType=8
(Overview of retail sales);
http://gia.info.gov.hk/general/201802/01/P2018020100410_277399_1_1517469181773.pdf
(Detailed retail sales statistics)
Hong Kong Tourism Board http://partnernet.hktb.com/filemanager/intranet/pm/VisitorArrivalStatistics/ViS_Stat_E/VisE_2017/Tourism%20Statistics%2012%202017.pdf
(Visitor Information and arrivals)  


   

 

More information:
Hong Kong Retail
Source:

Roland Rhode, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

13.03.2018

CONVERSION OF THE CLOTHING INDUSTRY IN BANGLADESH NOT YET COMPLETED

  • Eports grow slowly
  • Industry needs new concepts

Dhaka (GTAI) - The garment industry is the main industry in Bangladesh. The state of the companies has improved since 2013 - when a building with several factories collapsed. Domestic and foreign companies have invested in new processes. Government and associations want to further increase the security. Exports are growing slower. The international competition forces the companies to produce not only more sustainable, but also more efficient and innovative.

On April 24th 2013, north of the Bangladeshi capital Dhaka, the Rana Plaza building collapsed, housing five clothing factories. The disaster claimed 1,138 lives and more injuries. The disaster in-cised deep into the country's largest industrial sector. The massive problems with building and safety as well as violations of workers' rights became internationally visible at once and then vigor-ously tackled.

  • Eports grow slowly
  • Industry needs new concepts

Dhaka (GTAI) - The garment industry is the main industry in Bangladesh. The state of the companies has improved since 2013 - when a building with several factories collapsed. Domestic and foreign companies have invested in new processes. Government and associations want to further increase the security. Exports are growing slower. The international competition forces the companies to produce not only more sustainable, but also more efficient and innovative.

On April 24th 2013, north of the Bangladeshi capital Dhaka, the Rana Plaza building collapsed, housing five clothing factories. The disaster claimed 1,138 lives and more injuries. The disaster in-cised deep into the country's largest industrial sector. The massive problems with building and safety as well as violations of workers' rights became internationally visible at once and then vigor-ously tackled.

Foreign companies have invested heavily in the textile and clothing industry in recent years, with a record high in the year after the disaster. According to the Central Bank, foreign direct investment (FDI) in the textile and clothing industry in June 2017 reached a respectable USD 2.6 billion. Com-panies from South Korea have been the largest contributors with USD 766 million, followed by Hong Kong investors with USD 448 million and the United Kingdom with USD 243 million

FDI inflows into the Bangladeshi textile and clothing industry (in USD millions.)
Financial year 2011/12 2012/13 2013/14 2014/15 2015/16 2016/17
FDI inflows, net 241 412 446 352 396 360

      *) Financial year from July 1st to June 30th

Several successful programs for more security
Government and international organizations responded with many measures and initiatives at Rana Plaza. The International Labor Organization (ILO) launched programs to improve work-ing conditions. Buyers and industry representatives were looking for solutions.

International traders, trade unions and non-governmental organi-zations finally signed a binding agreement for more fire and building safety in 2013 (Accord on Fire and Building Safety). Employees of Accord have since reviewed more than 1,600 tex-tile and garment factories. Approximately 86 percent of the iden-tified deficiencies were eliminated according to an interim report dated January 2018. Accord will expire in November 2018 after five years. Some participants of the alliance have agreed an ex-tension of the program of three years.

In particular North American importers launched the Alliance (Al-liance for Bangladesh Worker Safety) program in 2013. The Al-liance has since reviewed 666 factories that, as of February 2018, have remedied approximately 87 percent of the deficien-cies. The program will expire also after five years in May 2018.
Representatives of industry and government, trade unions, ILO, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and international buyers want to co-ordinate the control and rehabilitation measures together. The BGMEA and the government rely on the NI National Initiative, which they developed together with ILO. The Department of Inspection of Factories and Establishments is responsible for NI controls. Under the NI program 1,500 factories have been inspected which are working for do-mestic customers. The program is to be extended to exporting companies and will replace Accord and Alliance.

Workers demand more rights and higher wages
The government made it easier to found and to engage in trade unions after the Rana Plaza disas-ter. According to observers, the approximately 4 million workers in the textile and clothing industry continue to have little formal organization and went repeatedly on strike for higher wages.

A government commission recently increased the monthly minimum wage in the garment industry from Taka 3,000 to 5,300 in 2013. This amount corresponds currently with EUR 52 only. (1 EU-RO = Taka 102.13, exchange rate of March 5th 2018). Trade unions demanded tripling of the minimum wage at the beginning of 2018, because unskilled workers are given this low pay when they are first employed, which is barely enough to survive. The reward grows only later with the skills and experience.

Employees often change their jobs. According to observers, the fluctuation should average be-tween 5 and 7 percent per month. Fair wages and good working conditions would give a good in-fluence on this issue in the companies concerned.

Bangladesh is the second largest exporter of clothing after China
The globally active clothing retailers are buying in Bangladesh on a large scale. Some have offices with hundreds of employees. Major clients include Inditex (Spain), H & M (Sweden), C & A and Tchibo (Germany).

Clothing exports, however, stagnated in the financial year 2016/17. One reason for the weak growth was the strengthened exchange rate. Taka's national currency increased against the US dollar, making exports more expensive and less competitive.

The government is targeting an export growth of 8.1 percent to USD 30.2 billion in 2017/18. The industry is on track indeed, reaching 7.8 percent in the second half of 2017 compared to the same period of the year before. The most important customers are the USA and Germany.

Bangladesh's Apparel Exports (in USD million) 2014/15 *) 2015/16 *) 2016/17 *)
Total     25,491 28,094   28,150
Thereof           
.Weaving goods             13,065 14,739 14,393
.Knitting goods  12,427  13,355 13,757
Customers        
.USA            5,288 5,625 5,204
.Germany  4,339 4,653 5,135
.Great Britain  2,904  3,524 3,307
.Spain        1,626 1,864 1,879
.France  1,618 1,714 1,765
.Italy       1,243 1,278  1,349
.Canada             929 998 946
.Netherlands  627  660 814
.Belgium   772 835 753
.Japan            653 774  744
Poland         548  616 720

*) Financial year from July 1st to June 30th
Sources: Export Promotion Bureau, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association

Exports from this emerging country enjoy exemption from duty in many developed countries. The European Union grants duty-free and quota-free access. Australia and Japan grant preferential access to the Generalized Scheme of Preferences (GSP). , The USA however has suspended the GSP status in 2013 and imposed tariffs and duties on imports from Bangladesh.

Companies want to grow and become more efficient
The Association of Garment Export Companies BGMEA estimates that over 3,000 garment factories work exclusively for international clients. Another 800 to 1,000 companies sew for local retailers who sell clothing to the country's 160 million inhabitants.

There are no data on company sizes or on the companies with the highest turnover. Clothing companies are mostly registered as private companies and do not publish business figures. The larger ones belong to local conglomerates operating in different economic sectors.

The companies are investing in more modern production facilities to process larger orders faster and at lower unit costs. Imports of machinery and equipment for the textile and clothing industry totaled USD 1.4 billion in 2015. The BGMEA believes that the garment industry has increased its purchases of equipment since.

The added value along the local textile chain is expandable. Simple fabrics and materials are produced locally. The production capacities for fabrics however are not sufficient and need to be increased. The clothing industry is also switching to higher quality synthetic fiber products. Producers hope for higher margins, if, for example, they produce clothing made of elastic fibers or functional clothing made from mixed fibers.

Many pre-products are imported from China and South Korea. Imports however are difficult due to the limited handling capacities of seaports and airports. Logistics costs are high. The clothing sector still has some challenges to overcome.

 

 Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association

http://www.bgmea.com.bd
Vereinigung der Bekleidungsexportfirmen
Bangladesh Textile Mills Association http://www.btmadhaka.com
Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh   http://bangladeshaccord.org  
Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety  http://www.bangladeshworkersafety.org

 

 

 

Source:

Thomas Hundt, Germany Trade & Invest www.gtai.de

12.12.2017

ETHIOPIA FOCUSES ON CLOTHING AND TEXTILE EXPORTS

  • Industrial parks should enable a quantum leap
  • Progress in infrastructure, Deficits in foreign exchange provision

The Ethiopian textile, clothing and leather industry scores not only with comparatively low wages and high-performing personnel, but also with modern industrial parks. In the meantime the technology has to be fully imported and the supply of materials needs to be greatly expanded. There is a great progress in logistics, but unfortunately not in foreign exchange procurement. German suppliers of relevant equipment should definitely consider Ethiopia in their acquisition.

  • Industrial parks should enable a quantum leap
  • Progress in infrastructure, Deficits in foreign exchange provision

The Ethiopian textile, clothing and leather industry scores not only with comparatively low wages and high-performing personnel, but also with modern industrial parks. In the meantime the technology has to be fully imported and the supply of materials needs to be greatly expanded. There is a great progress in logistics, but unfortunately not in foreign exchange procurement. German suppliers of relevant equipment should definitely consider Ethiopia in their acquisition.

So far, only Mauritius has made a name for itself as a producer of high-quality clothing south of the Sahara. Attempts to locate textile and clothing companies in Namibia and Lesotho in a larger style have not been very successful. Meanwhile Kenya and Ghana have far too expensive production conditions. "Clothing companies are nomadic,” says a consultant, who is specializing in the trade, "they go where it's cheapest for them."

Meanwhile, Ethiopia offers several advantages: Wages and additional costs are far below the Chinese ones. A worker in the Ethiopian factories earns an average of USD 909 a year, according to a survey by the US Center for Global Development, compared to USD 835 in Bangladesh, USD 1,776 in Tanzania, and USD 2,118 in Kenya. Another advantage is appreciated by employees: Ethiopia has a long tradition of textile and clothing production as well as in leather processing and thus at least an expandable base of skilled workers.

The supply of native cotton and leather meanwhile is considered strongly expandable. In times of drought, such as in 2016 and partly in 2017, the supply of cotton is insufficient. However, the government is cooperative and increasingly open to the needs of producers. Thus, the infrastructure has been currently sustainably improved, in particular the transport routes to the seaport Djibouti, from where Europe is much faster to reach than from the Far East. In addition, the Ethiopian capital Addis Ababa has a capable aviation hub with a dozen direct flights to the EU, including Frankfurt and Vienna. There is also a modern air freight center.

Modern industrial parks as a game changer

Just as important as the delivery routes are the "modern" production conditions in the emerging industrial centers all over the country, Made by China: pothole-free roads, guaranteed electricity and water supply, proper waste and wastewater disposal, workers' settlements in the vicinity. From the Ethiopian point of view, a great many jobs are created, families are fed and foreign exchange is earned.

According to its government, Ethiopia is in a transformation process away from an agrarian economy and towards an industrialized state. By 2025, the country should reach a "middle-income status" and become the largest industrial production hub in Africa. To achieve this, Ethiopia is investing heavily in roads, railways and power generation, in health and education, in urban and rural development, and in the creation of industrial clusters.

Ambitious export specifications

In July 2016 the Hawassa Industrial Park was officially opened, dedicated to the export of textiles and clothing, and is the largest industrial park in sub-Saharan Africa. As early as 2018, the park is expected to employ 60,000 workers and generate USD 1 billion in exports of clothing and textiles - a steep target given in a view of the current export figures. As early as 2030, Ethiopia wants to reach a total of USD 30 billion by exporting textiles and clothing - but it's still a long way off. At present, 15 in-ternational companies are already investing in Hawassa, including the US PVH Corporation (formerly Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation, prominent brands: Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfinger) and Epic Group (Hong Kong), a supplier of, among others, Walmart , JC Penny, Levi Strauss, VF Corporation, Tesco, Sansbury's, Marks & Spencer and C & A. Epic wanted to go to Kenya first, but then decided for Ethiopia at the last minute, which, according to Epic boss Ranjan Mahtani, is "still unpolished," but has the most potential.

The challenges are considered to be high: "Our seam-stresses have never got a job before and have never seen a sewing machine," Mahtani says training therefore is a top priority. At the same time, however, his company also relies on state-of-the-art automatic machines, for example for attaching bags. The production halls are also all around computerized with RFID technology. The current efficiency Mahtani estimates at 25 to 30 percent. After experience with other production sites, results of 75 to 80 percent are possible after about ten years.

Wide range of new industrial parks under construction

In July 2017, another industrial park was opened in Kombolcha City. A whole range of other parks are in various stages of realization and all are focused on the apparel, textile, pharmaceutical and medical device manufacturing sectors. According to the Ethiopian Government, there is no shortage of interested investors from the PR of China, India, Turkey, the US, Hong Kong and South Korea. Ethiopia benefits from the African Growth and Opportunity Act of the United States, which, for example, reduces its import duties by 16.8 per cent on cotton pants and 30 per cent on synthetic shirts. In addition, Ethiopia has a duty-free access to the EU market under the Everything-but-Arms initiative.

Ethiopian exports of textiles, clothing and leather goods (including shoes), in USD mio
SITC- product group 2014 2015 2016
61 Leather and leather goods  97.51 98.20 78.63
65 Yarn, fabrics finished textiles and re-lated products 39.34 39.12 29.61
84 Clothing and clothing accessories 55.53 77.94 68.25
85 Shoes   33.88 37.69 43.80
Total      226.26 252.95 220.29

Source: Comtrade, as of 18 October 2017

Ethiopian imports of machinery and equipment for the textile and leather industry and parts thereof (SITC 724, in USD mio, change in%)
Supplying country 2014 2015 2016
Total      131.30

170.51

111.10
PR China 43.87 42.40 62.07
Italy 6.38 11.75 11.72
Japan 4.40 10.11 6.89
Turkey 4.86 19.14 4.92
other Asian countries, not specified 1.85 1.87 4.11
India 6.07 6.49 3.06
Germany 9.22 9.08 2.44

Note: The import figures mentioned above are based on Ethiopian data, which for various reasons are not considered particularly reliable. Equally not reliable are often the relevant export data of the partner countries, because all sea transports go via Djibouti and deliveries statistically are recorded often as exports to Djibouti.
Source: UN Comtrade, as of 18 October 2017

German exports expandable

German exporters of technology for the textile, clothing and leather industries are not yet well positioned in Ethiopia. According to the preliminary figures of the Federal Statistical Office (SITCM 724), in 2016 only EUR 1.06 mio of relevant technology went to Ethiopia, compared to EUR 1.05 mio in the previous year and EUR 5.02 mio in 2015.

More information:
Ethiopia Export Textilindustrie
Source:

Martin Böll, Nairobi (GTAI)

 Ethiopia is considered as investment tip in Sub-Saharan Africa © Pixabay
07.11.2017

ETHIOPIA IS CONSIDERED AS INVESTMENT TIP IN SUB-SAHARAN AFRICA

  • International companies have confidence in government work
  • Chinese set the tone

Nairobi (GTAI) - Foreign companies are flowing into Ethiopia and investing in the textile, clothing and leather sectors. Ethiopia is also interesting for companies that assembling simple technical devices. The country does not look good in various international indices, but that does not have to be a contradiction. For some sectors Ethiopia is highly interesting and hope for improvement is always to be hoped for.

Ethiopia is one of the poorest countries in the world and one of many typical developing countries, as there are many on the African continent. The big difference is: Ethiopia is controlled by a regime that is not satisfied with what it has achieved, but is more ambitious: to become a leading, if not the leading, industrialized nation in sub-Saharan Africa.

Model China

  • International companies have confidence in government work
  • Chinese set the tone

Nairobi (GTAI) - Foreign companies are flowing into Ethiopia and investing in the textile, clothing and leather sectors. Ethiopia is also interesting for companies that assembling simple technical devices. The country does not look good in various international indices, but that does not have to be a contradiction. For some sectors Ethiopia is highly interesting and hope for improvement is always to be hoped for.

Ethiopia is one of the poorest countries in the world and one of many typical developing countries, as there are many on the African continent. The big difference is: Ethiopia is controlled by a regime that is not satisfied with what it has achieved, but is more ambitious: to become a leading, if not the leading, industrialized nation in sub-Saharan Africa.

Model China

Despite its geographical location in Africa, large parts of the country's historical and cultural development are strongly influenced from the Middle East. The big role models are therefore not more successful states in Africa but are coming as the United Arab Emirates and China from the East. Thirty years ago, the economic march that Ethiopia is undergoing today, began there: cheap labor, interesting natural resources, enough free land and rivers for energy and irrigation.

The country is thus attractive for labor-intensive industries, especially the textile, clothing and leather industry. A worker in an Ethiopian sweatshop earns an average of USD 909 a year, based on a survey by the US Center for Global Development, compared to USD 835 in Bangladesh, USD 1,776 in Tanzania, and USD 2,118 in Kenya. Another advantage appreciated by employers: In the African context Ethiopian women are considered to be well-educated and less willing to strike.

Special zones of industrial oases

Another location advantage are the industrial zones, which are mostly built by Chinese companies: fencing, strict access controls, no-hole roads, guaranteed electricity and water supply, proper waste and garbage disposal, workers' housing in the area or nearby, shops, banks, medical care. From a European point of view, it may look like exploitation and "big brother", but from an Ethiopian point of view jobs are created, families are fed and foreign exchange is earned.

In July 2016, the Hawassa Industrial Park was officially opened, the largest in sub-Saharan Africa. From here, textiles and clothing are to be exported. By 2018, the park will employ 60,000 workers and generate USD 1 billion in exports. As early as 2030, Ethiopia wants to earn USD 30 billion in this segment. Even if one should not take the last number too seriously, the ambitions are clear and unambiguous.

Another industrial park was inaugurated in July 2017 in the city of Kombolcha. Meanwhile, a whole range of other parks are in various stages of realization, focusing on apparel, textiles, pharmaceuticals and medical equipment, as well as the agro-industry. According to the Ethiopian Government, there is no shortage of interested investors, primarily from China, India, Turkey, the US, Hong Kong and South Korea.

Cheap electricity soon abound

While some of the industrial parks still have to rely on standby generators and the connection to roads and railways leaves much to be desired, long-term remedies are in sight: several large hydropower plants are under construction nationwide, especially the Grand Ethiopian-Renaissance Dam project, which will start up the first generators in the current financial year (July 8th 2017 to July 7th 2018). Upon final completion, the capacity should reach 6,450 megawatts. It would then be Africa's largest power plant - and one of the cheapest electricity suppliers.

There are notable successes in road construction also: since August 2016, Ethiopia has got a first fully commissioned 85-kilometer three-lane highway from the capital Addis Ababa to Adama. Further sections are under construction. And also with the railway there is something to celebrate with a new, 756 kilometers long and continuously electrified route between the outskirts of Addis Ababa and the container port in neighboring Djibouti.

Foreign exchange shortage a big hurdle

This positive development cannot hide the fact that large parts of the country are not yet connected to the electricity net, that the road network is inadequate and the railway line is only a small start. Moreover, the bureaucracy is inflated and inefficient and lacks a functioning constitutional state. Currently, an acute lack of foreign exchange hinders imports and profit transfers, as the ambitious infrastructure projects absorb every available dollar in the country.

Investors, however, are speculating on tomorrow: because the country is on the right track and wants to maintain its course. A steady influx of foreign direct investment shows that international companies have sufficient confidence and want to be among the first. In addition next to the low wages, they are interested above all in the underdeveloped and untapped consumer market of 105 million people. For the South African Rand Merchant Bank, Ethiopia is therefore the fourth most attractive investment destination in Africa after Egypt, South Africa and Morocco (Where to Invest in Africa 2018).

Poor placement in international rankings

Even if Ethiopia is predicted to get a bright future, current negative assessments may not be ignored: in the Global Competitiveness Index 2017 - 2018 of the World Economic Forum, Ethiopia ranks 108th (out of 137). In the Index of the Economic Freedom of the World Heritage Foundation Ethiopia belongs to the group of largely unfree countries in 2017 ranked 142 (out of 180). And in the Doing Business Ranking of the World Bank (2017), Ethiopia is in a poor position with 159 (out of 190). By contrast, in 2016 in the Transparency International's Corruption Perceptions Index Ethiopia ranked 108 (out of 175), making it a lighthouse in an otherwise corrupt region (last place: Somalia 176, South Sudan 175, Sudan 170, Eritrea 164, Uganda 151, Kenya 145, Djibouti 123).

In the Fragile States Index 2017 of the Fund for Peace, Ethiopia ranks 15th, ranking among the most fragile states in the world (lowest rank 1 = South Sudan, best rank 178 = Finland). Ethiopia also scored poorly on press freedom and the rule of law: ranked 150th out of 178 in the Press Freedom Index in 2017 and 107th in the Rule of Law Index in 2016 (out of 113).

Economic data in a regional context
  2016 20171) 20181)
Gross domestic product, in USD billion      
..Kenya 70,5 80,7 88,2
..Ethiopia 70,3 72,1 75,3
..Tansania 47,7 50,5 52,5
GDP growth, real, in %        
..Kenya 5,8 5,1 6,1
..Ethiopia 7,6 6,1 5,7
..Tansania 7,0 6,4 6,0
Import of goods, in USD billion, fob      
..Kenya 13,62) 14,5 15,1
..Ethiopia 16,02) 16,8 17,0
..Tansania 8,52) 8,6 9,0

1) Prognosis
2) Estimation
Source: Economist Intelligence Unit

Baby products booming in China © jurec/pixelio.de
28.02.2017

BABY PRODUCTS BOOMING IN CHINA

  • No longer just milk powder demanded 
  • Internet important sales channel

The easing of the one-child policy in China will probably not bring the expected baby boom. Nevertheless, the market for baby products is very interesting for foreign suppliers. Because Chinese parents trust these more than domestic products and they are willing to spend money on imports. After this has been already the case with milk powder, now household appliances, furniture, care products for babies and expectant mothers are in the focus. The internet is very important as a sales channel.

  • No longer just milk powder demanded 
  • Internet important sales channel

The easing of the one-child policy in China will probably not bring the expected baby boom. Nevertheless, the market for baby products is very interesting for foreign suppliers. Because Chinese parents trust these more than domestic products and they are willing to spend money on imports. After this has been already the case with milk powder, now household appliances, furniture, care products for babies and expectant mothers are in the focus. The internet is very important as a sales channel.

Between 17.5 million and 21 million babies are expected to be born every year in China, according to the forecasts of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) within the next five years. This provides a large market for products needed for baby care and for pregnant women. Also baby seats for cars, prams and furniture from abroad are being sought as well.

According to iResearch market research the total sales of products for pregnant women, mothers and babies amounted to RMB 2.3 billion in 2015. (approximately USD 360 billion; 1 USD = RMB 6.39 as an annual average). The growth rate of 25% is expected to weaken in the future, but the demand is still growing strongly. Despite the fact that the birth rates are hardly rising, the "little emperors" are pampered with pleasure. Quality and security promises are the decisive factor for foreign products in the urban middle class.

Quality and safety speak for foreign products 

The share of sales thru the Internet is steadily growing. More than 15% of purchases for the little Chinese are already made via the network. By 2018 the proportion is expected to grow to 23%. This is what market analysts have found out together with the second-largest Chinese online portal JD.com. Furthermore, the per capita purchases are highest in the prosperous coastal provinces. But, for example, mothers in Sichuan in the south-west also spend over RMB 1,000 per year for their offspring.

With China's size, new brands hardly can accomplish a successful market appearance. But the Internet provides a valuable platform and is used by expectant mothers to get information and also to purchase. Leading are the platforms of the Alibaba Group, for example Tmall and the competitor JD.com. There are also specialized shopping portals such as bleibi.com, mia.com and gou.com, as well as social media channels such as WeChat and Internet forums for expectant mothers (e.g. mama.cn or Babytree).

Sales of baby and pregnant women's products (in RMB billion, year to year change in sales in %.)
  Turnover Change
2013 1,400 13.8
2014 2,000 30.2
2015 2,300 25.2
2016 *) 2,600 12.5
2017 *) 2,900 12.0
2018 *) 3,200 10.1

*) from 2016 forecasts
Source: iResearch, JD.com

Alibaba announced in its financial statement about cross-border Internet shopping for 2016, that baby products are already the third largest import category. In recent years this segment has grown considerably, in 2016 imported goods stood already for more than one-fifth of baby products sold on the Tmall and Taobao platforms.

Cross-border trade in baby products is booming

While in the past foreign milk powder brands were in high demand, now bottles, baby seats and care products for mother and child are now in the focus of online shoppers. Chinese milk powder still enjoys little confidence following a large scandal with contaminated milk powder in 2008.

The online trade however also was overshadowed in 2016 by scandals involving counterfeit products, mainly re-packaged milk powder came into circulation. The government therefore is watching the boom in overseas e-commerce with mixed feelings and consumers are becoming more cautious.

In recent years’ diapers, also have been ordered especially from abroad (especially from Japan). While these two categories continue to account for more than half of the sales, baby bottles and child seats experienced explosive growth in 2016. In addition, the mothers like to order cosmetics and personal hygiene, which will not hurt the growing life. This applies in particular to natural cosmetics.

In 2016 the leading countries of origin for online imports were Japan (19.3%), USA (18.3%) and Korea Rep. (13.6%). But Germany was already on fourth place with 8.0%. Particularly popular with "made in Germany" were kitchen equipment (including kitchen appliances), milk powder, baby food and food supplements.

 

Chinas Import of hygienic products*) (in USD millions; change compared to previous year in %)
2010 2014 2015 2016 Change
157 752 1,357 1,310 -3.7

*) HSPos. 9619 Sanitary napkins, tampons, diapers for toddlers;
Source: Chinese Custom

 

Chinas Import of Baby Food*) (in USD millions; change compared to previous year in %)
  2010 2014 2015 2016 Change
Insgesamt 688 1,565 2,518 3,150 25.0
Deutschland 14 60 302 346 14.5

*) HSPos. 1901.10;
Source: Chinese Custom

 

CRISIS HITS RUSSIAN FASHION MARKET HARD © derProjektor / pixelio.de
24.05.2016

CRISIS HITS RUSSIAN FASHION MARKET HARD

  • Sales decreases
  • Middle Price Segments affected most
  • Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency.

  • Sales decreases
  • Middle Price Segments affected most
  • Online Sale of Clothing growing

Moscow (GTAI) - Sales of apparel and home furnishings will continue to decline in 2016. Lower real income leads to falling demand. Russian customers buy fewer clothes and are increasingly watching the price. Most sales shrink in the medium price segment. Fashion chains react on the declining market volume by closing stores and focus on profitable locations. In contrast, the online trade is growing. In comparison to the year before Russia's clothing market shrank in 2015 year by 9% to a volume of Rubles 1.4 billion. Converted into USD the decline was even 43%. The discrepancy between the value in Rubles and in USD is due to the drastically fallen value of the Russian currency. For the textile and clothing industry, the Ruble devaluation means a fundamental change in the general framework: more expensive imports, lower personnel costs in Russia and rising export opportunities.
 
Customers change from the middle to the lower price segment
In addition, the real income of the Russian population declines and thus the purchasing power. Russian customers buy less clothing and watch more and more the price. Sales shrink at the most in the medium price segment. Many customers orientate themselves on low-price segments (mass market), which will increase in 2016 by 5 to10% to a share of 65 to 70%, the Fashion Consulting Group predicts. The proportion of the premium and luxury segment remains unchanged.
An average Russian household has cut its spending on clothing and home textiles by 30 to 50%, experts estimate. Especially the suppliers of imported textiles and clothing got to feel this, their prices had to be increased most, what damaged the business of foreign brand suppliers. In 2015 the Russian imports of textiles and clothing fell by 25%. This tendency continues in 2016.
    
Distribution networks in the stationary trade become thinned 
Because of the price pressure manufacturers and retailers in the fashion market shorten their staff, negotiate discounts for the shop rental, reduce the collections, simplify cuts and save on quality. While many Russian brands used to buy their materials in the EU and in Turkey, designers and producers now can only afford cheap synthetic fabrics from China. The advertising budgets were slashed in 2015 by 40 to 45%. Moreover clothing suppliers react by closing stores and concentrate on most profitable locations. Since 2014 more than eleven international brands have left the Russian market. These include Gerry Weber from the middle price segment, Laura Ashley, Chevignon and Seppälä; from the mass market segment Esprit, New Look, OVS, River Iceland and Wendys.  
 
Marks & Spencer closed 3% of its stores, Mango 7%, Gloria Jeans 12%. The largest drop in the number of stores are reported from the brands Vis-a-Vis (-65%), Motivi (-40%), Savage (-29%) and Incity (-17%). Maratex closed its franchise stores for clothing brands like Esprit, New Look, OVS and River Iceland 2015 in Russia. The Finnish Stockmann sold its seven department stores in Russia for EUR 5 million to Reviva Holdings Ltd. (owner of the franchise store chain Debenhams) and gave up the business of its brands Lindex and Seppälä.
 
Adidas has closed 2015 167 of its 1,100 shops in Russia, planned are 200. The German sportswear manufacturer acquired 2015 the central warehouse Chekhov-2 with an area of 120,000 square meters in the Moscow region. The purchase price is supposed at a total between USD 70 and 100 million. The Finnish Kesko informed in February 2016 that it wants to sell the Russian Intersport chain because of poor financial results.

The retail chain Modny continent (brands: Incity, Deseo) reduced the number of its stores by 35. At the end of the first quarter of 2016 they still owned 301 stores. The Melon Fashion Group disposed in 2015 27 unprofitable stores, for this they opened 37 new ones. Melon owned December 31st 604 stores throughout Russia (befree 234, Zarina 203, Love Republic 167), of which 134 are franchise stores (befree 56, Zarina 44, Love Republic 34). A new concept of the stores - larger retail space and more modern design – should help against the crisis.
The Spanish designer brand Desigual closed its Russian stores end of September 2015, but they remain on the market in multibrand stores. A similar course is followed by other brands. 

Eleven fashion brands enter the Russian market in the first half year of  2016
A small gleam of hope: Eleven fashion brands announced to enter the Russian market in the first half year of 2016. This happened already at the end of 2015 with budget brands like Cortefiel, Superdry and Violetta by Mango. H & M, Monki, Uniqlo and Forever 21 want to continue to expand in Russia.
Already in 2015 the number of H & M stores grew in Russia by 35% to 96 stores. On April 28th 2016 the menswear house Henderson opened a new salon in the shopping center "Zelenopark" in Zelenograd near Moscow. With this Henderson (brands: Henderson, Hayas) is now represented in 164 major shopping centers in 56 Russian cities. Hugo Boss inaugurated on April 8th 2016 a new shop in the Outlet Village Pulkovo.

The vertically integrated chain Gloria Jeans has changed it’s headquarter at the beginning of 2016 from Rostov-on-Don to Moscow and rented there 3,500 square meters in the Arma plant. Until the end of 2016 Gloria Jeans plans to extend on 5,000 square meters and further to 10,000 square meters until 2017. The capital should serve as a gateway to the world market: Gloria Jeans plans to open an office in Hong Kong. The company has eight regional offices and two large logistics complexes in Novosibirsk and Novoshakhtinsk.

International brands, planning to enter the Russian market in first half of 2016
Nr. Brand Country Profile Shopping mall Price segment
1 Demurya     France/Russia Clothing Smolenskij Passash Premium
2 John Varvatos USA Clothing Crocus City Mall Premium
3 Il Gufo Italy Clothing for children ZUM Premium
4 Barbour United Kingdom Clothing GUM upper middle
5 Armani Exchange Italy Clothing Mega, Aviapark middle
6 Veta Estland Clothing Streetretail, Kamenoostrowskij middle
7 Love Stories Netherlands Underwear Einkaufszentrum "Modny Seson" middle
8 Victorias Secret Pink USA Underwear, clothing Evropejskij middle
9 Hunkemöller Germany Underwear Mega middle
10 Undiz France Underwear Mega lower
11 Aigle France Clothing, shoes Street retail, Olimpijskij pr-t middle

Source: Retail.ru

Online sale with clothing is growing – Chinese suppliers are expanding
In contrast to the declining sales in the stationary apparel trade, the demand in outlets and on the Internet is rising. The number of visits and the average amount of receipts at the Fashion House Outlet Centre Moscow has risen by two times since July 2013, director Brendon O'Reily reports. The Fashion House Group offers online shopping since 2016.

The association of Internet trading companies (http://www.akit.ru) estimates that sales on the Internet in 2015 were Rubles 760 billion (+ 7%). The share of clothing and footwear was 35 %. Already in 2014 the online trade had grown by a third. Online stores are operated by KupiVIP, Lamoda and Finn Flare. Alone at KupiVIP the number of orders increased by 45% to a volume of Rubles 16.5 billion in 2015.

Manufacturers and distributors therefor boost the online trade. The government wants to promote the export of Russian goods and is planning a large Internet trading platform. Models are Alibaba (China) and JD.com. However Russian customers are buying increasingly from Asian webshops. Only in 2014 the popularity of online orders in China increased threefold.

Contac addresses
Fashion Consulting Group
(Consulting, Marketing, PR)
125009 Moskau, Maly Gnezdnikowskij pereulok 4
Tel.: 007 495/629 74 25, -629 76 23
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Vietnam´s Grament Industry experiences Investment Boom ©Beckmann Agency
12.04.2016

VIETNAM'S GARMENT INDUSTRY EXPERIENCES INVESTMENT BOOM

  • FTA attracts Manufacturers
  • Proportion of local added Value should rise

Hong Kong (gtai) - Vietnam is one of the main production sites of the clothing industry. Already in recent years the country had attracted buyers from around the world. In 2014 textiles and clothing shared 22% of the total merchandise exports. According to the state owned VINATX in 2015 Vietnam was the fourth largest apparel exporter in the world. The through the FTA with the EU and the Pacific neighbors expected growth requires investment in the supply industry.

  • FTA attracts Manufacturers
  • Proportion of local added Value should rise

Hong Kong (gtai) - Vietnam is one of the main production sites of the clothing industry. Already in recent years the country had attracted buyers from around the world. In 2014 textiles and clothing shared 22% of the total merchandise exports. According to the state owned VINATX in 2015 Vietnam was the fourth largest apparel exporter in the world. The through the FTA with the EU and the Pacific neighbors expected growth requires investment in the supply industry.

In 2015 the Vietnamese garment exports amounted to about USD 27 billion. Estimates of the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) show they will increase by 8% in 2016. Nearly USD 30 billion of sector products would then be exported and assure Vietnam a ranking among the four largest exporting countries. The world market however is stagnating. The sector contributes nearly 10% to the industrial added value of the country, 2.5 million people are employed.

As the most important export market remains the United States. According to Vinatex the export to the US rose by 13% in 2015. The group dominates the textile production in the country, including companies like Garment 10, Phong Phu Textile and Garment Corporation, Viet Tien Garment and Hoa Tho Textile and Garment. Vinatex itself exported products worth of USD 3.5 billion, representing an increase of 10%.

TPP promises benefits

The sector has high hopes on the in February 2016 signed FTA Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP), in which next to the USA, Japan and Vietnam and eleven Pacific Room states arranged added tariff reductions and improved market access. If the ratification process in all countries will be successful, the agreement would enter into force in February 2018. Analysts show that Vietnam would become one of the main winners, among others due to the lowest labor cost in comparison of all other involved countries. The agreement therefore is welcomed by the majority of the population.

Pre-products have to be imported

According to experts the competitiveness of Vietnam will be increased especially in the area of textiles and clothing. About 70% of the textile exports will be delivered to TPP member countries. Despite the annual growth rates of 15 to 20% the value adding in the country remained low. Imports of raw materials and accessories are high and totaled to USD 16.5 billion in 2015. 90% of the 5,028 textile factories in Vietnam (end of 2013) are apparel manufacturers, that mean sewing operations. By contrast there are just four cotton-processing and two synthetic fibers producing companies.   

Imports of textile industry (in USD million, annual change in %)
  2014 2015 Change
Cotton 1,443 1,623 12.5
Fibers 1,559 1,515 -2.8
Fabrics 9,428 10,197 8.2
Accessories 3,031 3,193 5.3
Total 15,461 16,528 6.9

Source: Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (Vitas)

The sector is facing a challenge: TPP offers the free imports only if 55% of the value is provided in the member states. For the textile sector this is called the "Yarn Forward Rule", that means everything following the yarn. In Vietnam the proportion of the added value currently stands at 25%.

The text of the agreement is online available: (http://www.tpp.mfat.govt.nz/text). Chapter 4 deals with the textile and clothing sector and contains important annexes to the rules of origin. TPP is expected to attract investments into the country, as the value supply chain is incomplete: yarns and fabrics are mostly imported from East Asian countries.

Value adding rules require investment

Also the free trade agreement between the EU and Vietnam, agreed on August 4th 2015, should push the exchange of commodities. The share of the EU clothing imports from Vietnam is only 3%. Thus the country ranks as the sixth supplier. In the United States, Japan and South Korea Vietnam, however, is the second largest clothing supplier.

Following ratification of TPP an abolishment of 99% of all tariffs would follow.  Textiles from Vietnam would then be duty-free within a maximum period of seven years. For that TPP
defines clear rules of origin: (http://trade.ec.europa.eu/doclib/press/index.cfm?id=1437).

If investments would flow into the country and strengthen the supply chain, the value of clothing exports from Vietnam could be doubled until 2020 - so bold estimates.   Then the annual production of yarns should reach 2 million tons, the amount of fabrics 2 billion square meters and that of clothing 6 billion pieces. Following the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS)  the export value then should be between USD 45 to 50 billion. This requires new textile machinery. So far, mainly Chinese products were in demand, but also for German suppliers the opportunities emerge.

Production capacity of the Vietnamese textile industry
Sector Annual capacity
Cotton ginning (1,000 t) 70
Synthetic fibers (1,000 t) 400
Filament yarn (1,000 t) 182
Spinning (1,000 t) 900
Weaving (Mio. m²) 800
Knitting (1,000 t) 110
Nonwovens (1,000 t) 16
Dyeing and finishing (Mio. m²) 1200
Toweling (1,000 t) 62
Clothing(Mio. Stück)  4000

Source: Vitas

However, many sector representatives in Vietnam see TPP also critical, because by the agreement large new market participants could intensify competition. The small and medium companies are hardly competitive due to their outdated technology, lack of capital and low know-how. They demand government aid in the form of tax breaks and subsidies for land. The Bank for Investment and Development of Vietnam has already provided USD 2 billion for the support of the industry for the next five years.    

Investment in regional centers

Large investments are happening already now: The TAL Group from Hong Kong, one of the largest owner-managed apparel producers, has invested USD 600 million in factories in the Dai An Industry Zone in Hai Duong Province, especially for yarn dyeing and finishing. Haputex Development, which is also from Hong Kong, has built with up to USD 120 million in the province of Binh Duong on a twelve hectare site a Weaving mill which should go into operation 2016.  There also the South Korean company Kyungbang is building a spinning mill for USD 40 million. The Texhong Textile and Garment Group is building with USD 300 million a yarn factory in Quang Ninh. And in Nam Dinh the Yulun Jiangsu Textile Group, a state-owned company from China, is building with USD 68 million a factory for the manufacturing and dyeing of yarn.

Investments are mainly attracted by the regions Ninh Binh, Hue, Binh Duong and Ham Dinh, as well as the cost favorable  Mekong Delta. New target regions are at the borders with Laos and Cambodia, such as the area Tay Nguyen. As the largest Vietnamese group also Vinatex invests in new capacities and announces in convincing interviews to reach by 2020 a local added value part of 65% in final finished products.

Target markets of Vietnamese apparel exports (in USD million, annual change in %)
  2014 2015 Change
USA 9.841 10.984 11,6
EU 2.261 3.325 47,1
Japan 2.092 2.163 3,4
Korea (Rep.) 2.092 2.163 3,4
Total 24.692 27.021 9,4

Source: Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS)

Contact address:
Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS)
2nd Floor, 32 Trang Tien Str., Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi, Vietnam
Tel.: 0084 4/39 36 41 34; Fax: -39 34 98 42
Email: info@vietnamtextile.org.vn; Internet: http://www.vietnamtextile.org.vn

Supply chains in Asia are in motion © Tokamuwi/ pixelio.de
08.03.2016

SUPPLY CHAINS IN ASIA ARE IN MOTION

  • Vietnam is largest beneficiary
  • Relocation closer to sales markets

Hong Kong (gtai) - For global consumer product manufacturers, Asia has developed an important role as a procurement region. Large parts of production have been displaced in recent decades into the region and here traditionally mainly to China. The rising costs in China however lead to a strategy adjustment. Thus the production moved on to cheaper locations and a shift back closer to the end customer began. Free trade arrangements support this trend.

  • Vietnam is largest beneficiary
  • Relocation closer to sales markets

Hong Kong (gtai) - For global consumer product manufacturers, Asia has developed an important role as a procurement region. Large parts of production have been displaced in recent decades into the region and here traditionally mainly to China. The rising costs in China however lead to a strategy adjustment. Thus the production moved on to cheaper locations and a shift back closer to the end customer began. Free trade arrangements support this trend.

Labor costs in China will not move down again. Even when the economic growth increasingly weakens, China's coastal regions are already often too expensive for wage-intensive productions. The world's largest location of the manufacturing sector will anyway leave its dependence of exports and will generate more growth through domestic consumption. The remaining companies are therefore increasingly focused on Chinese customers. Has the textile industry heard the signals already several years ago and shifted away, now the electronics companies have started to search.

But – the relocation of production is not so easy, the experts agreed upon at the discussion panel Shifting Supply Chains in Asia on the Asian Financial Forum (AFF) in Hong Kong. Because no country, except India, offers such a workforce. But neither the infrastructure and the investment climate can match, nor the country has any interest in low-production stages. Furthermore China has set up a supply industry without any comparison.

Relocation trends slow down

Even Bangladesh, established for a long time as a cheap location for clothes, is losing its attractiveness - experts say. Besides fundamentally difficult production conditions especially scandals like collapsing factories are responsible. No western clothing manufacturer likes to be associated with that repute today. While Indonesia was generally judged for being rather little investment friendly, the Philippines would provide a better reputation than years ago. So in addition to numerous Japanese producers also German companies have moved from southern China to the special areas of the Philippines.

Due to wage cost increases by an average of 15% per year, China with it’s the low-wage area has catapulted itself in a large extent out of the market. In times of rising productivity this was compensated for a while but at last the model came to its limits. The empire of the middle will therefore make the leap to a consumptionbased growth based on production of high-tech and on the provision of services. It is still
unclear whether this leap across the "middleincome trap" will succeed. Many emerging countries are caught in this trap, and the growth is flagging.

German buyers order less in China

Accordingly German retailers are increasingly reducing their imports from China and buy more and more in other countries. This is the result of a member survey of the Foreign Trade Association of German Retailers (AVE), at which for the most part textile and shoe retailers participated. 80% of the respondents have already reduced their import volume from China in 2015, 90% of the companies said they are
planning to source from other supply regions. The merchants are seeing a shift to countries like Myanmar (78%), Bangladesh (67%) and Vietnam (56%).

Vietnam, which already benefited in recent years from the relocation, was still recommended on the AFF as a top location. The country with the highest economic growth in Southeast Asia in 2015 would have risen in the 1st half of 2015 to the fourth-largest exporter of textiles, the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) analyzed. For shoes it is already the third largest supplier worldwide. Based on mega investments from Samsung, now the electronics industry came out of the starting blocks and should attract more activities. Experts cite especially the mixture of young, growing populations with low labor costs as an important locational advantage.

Vietnam benefits from Free Trade Agreements (FTA)

A thrust Vietnam's attractiveness currently receives through free trade agreements which are in a final stage. So a free trade agreement with the European Union was signed in December 2015 which was followed early February 2016 by the Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP). The latter agreement, which includes next to ten other Pacific neighbors the United States, should bring a large benefit for Vietnam. For the Vietnamese consumer goods manufacturers the US is the most important market, the large retailers in the United States can move their procurements very fast.

As an underdeveloped member Vietnam is likely to get larger portions of the value chain in the textile and electronics area at the ratification (and even before). The country is still missing a developed supplier structure. This is just happening to be built in the textile sector, there are investments in capacity for yarns, fabrics and dyeing going on. For Samsung, the largest foreign investor, all components are still coming
from China. And only when a large proportion of the added value comes from TPP member states, the low duty will become applicable.

While the purchasing power is not quite so big in Europe, costs play an important role also there. But next to it the control of the supply chain and the flexibility has developed a greater role, rapid changes of trends and collections are determined by customers and the Internet. Therefore also here a shift back, closer to the markets, has begun. Romania and Bulgaria have established themselves in the middle of
Europe as a "low-wage locations". But even there the population is characterized by aging. Accordingly labor forces will become scare and wages will rise. Ukraine is traded as a new location.

Africa still with small potential

Little potential the experts from the Supply Chain Panels evidence the location of sub-Saharan Africa. This was tested by some buyers or producers, but the results would not be convincing. The views however diverge. Some Chinese companies are already partly on site and American manufacturers are monitoring the further development. So, for example, the VF Corporation, the largest denim retailer in the world, is buying in Africa. Only Ethiopia would have potential - according to a representative. But the infrastructure, investment climate and working morale could not be comparable.

So - basically serious alternatives to the established locations are lacking. Therefore, due to the scarcity of labor, costs and thus the final prices will rise. Even in Vietnam the minimum wage increased by 15% in 2015. But when it will be hardly possible to turn at the purchase screw, the companies need to position themselves better in marketing and sales, so a large clothing buyer. Therefore social media must be used in order to come closer to the customer and, for example, to develop individualization as a selling point.

The buying hotspots for clothes for the upcoming years (survey early 2015)
Country Named among the Top-3
Bangladesh 48%
Vietnam 33%
India 30%
Myanmar 30%
Turkey 30%
PR China 23%
Ethiopia 13%
Indonesia 10%
Egypt 5%
Sri Lanka 5%
Tunesia 5%

Source: McKinsey survey of chief purchasing managers