Aus der Branche

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) has updated its report on Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge with new topics in line with the European Union’s Competitiveness Compass and the Clean Industrial Deal. Specific scientific research is needed to better protect people and the environment from hazardous chemicals and to develop balanced and effective regulatory measures.

The report introduces new topics to reflect ECHA’s growing responsibilities. It also covers emerging topics in waste and recycling that aim to support circularity and enhance Europe’s industrial competitiveness. 

For example, more specific research is needed on:  

• chemical emissions and exposure from the waste stage of materials to help create more accurate emission estimates to avoid potentially over-conservative regulatory measures;
• recycled non-fossil fuel resources, to improve our understanding of their hazards and support EU policies that aim to reduce pollution and promote sustainable growth; and
• the valuing of environmental impacts to assess the effectiveness and proportionality of chemicals regulation and specific regulatory actions under, for example, REACH and the Batteries Regulation.

Dr Sharon McGuinness, ECHA’s Executive Director, said: 
“Since ECHA’s first report in 2023, we have seen important, regulatory-relevant scientific research get underway. For example, new research has been initiated on developing analytical methods to detect and measure PFAS for use by enforcement authorities and on generating monitoring data on a specific phthalate that is a chemical of concern.   

“Our updated report reflects the European Commission’s Clean Industry Deal and Competitiveness Compass, by inviting more specific research to support the circular economy and innovation in Europe.”

Other research needs added to the report include developing better methods to monitor chemicals in water environments, such as rivers, lakes, and oceans, and how chemicals can contaminate drinking water from materials that come into contact with it.

Background
The Key Areas of Regulatory Challenge report is part of an evolving research and development agenda aiming to support and inspire the research community. The list of research needs is not exhaustive. The report reflects ECHA’s current priorities, including the Agency’s new tasks. It was originally developed to support the work under the Partnership for the assessment of risk from chemicals (PARC). 

PARC is a seven-year EU wide research and innovation programme under Horizon Europe which aims to advance research, share knowledge and improve skills in chemical regulatory risk assessment.

ECHA’s role in PARC is to ensure that the funded scientific research addresses current regulatory challenges related to chemical risk assessment and adds value to the EU’s regulatory processes.

ECHA’s redesigned Classification and Labelling (C&L) Inventory is now available in the Agency’s new chemicals database, ECHA CHEM.

The C&L Inventory includes information on more than 4,400 EU-level harmonised classifications and seven million classifications notified or included in REACH registrations. Altogether, the inventory includes data on around 350 000 substances.

The integration of classification and labelling information into ECHA CHEM follows the initial launch of the database in January 2024, which featured information on over 100 000 REACH registrations submitted by companies. The new inventory is designed to help users easily locate the classification with the highest agreement and to bring clarity on the source behind the classification information. It incorporates recent regulatory developments, such as the new CLP hazard classes and is built with stability and growth in mind.

In this first version, the classification information is accessible in a visual format per substance with complementary approaches, such as application programming interfaces (APIs), being explored in future releases.  

Mercedes Viñas, Director of Submissions and Interaction, said:
“This is an important milestone in further developing a comprehensive database for all chemical data gathered by ECHA. The redesigned C&L Inventory comes with an enhanced user interface and simplifies access to classification information for users.”

Mike Rasenberg, Director of Hazard Assessment, added:
“Hazard classifications are the cornerstone of regulatory risk management of chemicals. The redesigned C&L inventory improves the clarity on the current and upcoming mandatory classifications harmonised at the EU level, helping companies to prepare and implement the required safety measures.”

The European Chemicals Agency brings forward a proposal for an EU-wide restriction on certain hexavalent chromium, Cr(VI), substances. The aim is to reduce the harmful effects of these carcinogenic chemicals for both workers and the public.

At the request of the European Commission, ECHA has assessed the risks posed by certain Cr(VI) substances to workers and the public as well as the socio-economic impacts of potential restrictions.

The Agency concluded that an EU-wide restriction is justified as Cr(VI) substances are among the most potent workplace carcinogens and pose a serious risk to workers’ health. People living near industrial sites that release these substances into the environment are also at risk of lung and intestinal cancers.

ECHA proposes to introduce a ban on Cr(VI) substances, except in the following use categories when they meet defined limits for worker exposure and environmental emissions:

1. Formulation of mixtures
2. Electroplating on plastic substrate
3. Electroplating on metal substrate
4. Use of primers and other slurries
5. Other surface treatment
6. Functional additives/process aids

Such a restriction could replace the current authorisation requirements under REACH, ensuring that the risks associated with Cr(VI) substances are effectively controlled once they are no longer subject to REACH authorisation. Additionally, barium chromate is included in the scope of the restriction to avoid regrettable substitution.

The restriction could prevent up to 17 tonnes of Cr(VI) from being released into the environment and avoid up to 195 cancer cases each year. Over 20 years, the total monetised benefits are estimated to be €331 million or €1.07 billion, depending on the restriction option chosen. The total cost to European society is estimated at either €314 million or €3.23 billion. These costs include investments in measures to reduce environmental releases and worker exposure, cost of closures and relocations, and replacing Cr(VI) substances with safer alternatives.

All stakeholders have the opportunity to provide information backed by robust evidence during a six-month consultation, which is expected to start on 18 June 2025. ECHA is planning to organise an online information session to explain the restriction process and help stakeholders take part in the consultation.

Next steps
ECHA’s scientific Committees for Risk Assessment and Socio-Economic Analysis will evaluate the restriction proposal. In their evaluation, they will consider the scientific evidence received during the consultations.
The European Commission, together with the 27 EU Member States, will take the decision on the restriction and its conditions – based on ECHA’s proposal and the committees’ opinion.

ECHA is the EU’s chemicals agency responsible for implementing EU chemical regulations.

On the occasion of World Water Day, Jeanologia reaffirms its commitment to dehydrating and detoxifying the textile industry by presenting its Ecological Profit and Loss Account—a pioneering report that quantifies the positive impact of its innovative solutions in terms of water savings and emissions reduction.

The figures for 2024: 20,875,400 cubic meters of polluted water saved and a reduction of 98,4 million kilograms of CO₂ emissions—a contribution equivalent to the annual water consumption of a city the size of Valencia and the carbon capture in a year by a forest of 16,000 hectares, the same size as 22,400 football fields. This means millions of liters of wastewater have been prevented from reaching rivers and seas, and millions of kilograms of CO₂ from polluting the atmosphere.

Water scarcity: the textile industry’s challenge and the urgency to act
The fashion industry, one of the most water-intensive and waste-generating sectors, faces a critical challenge. Each year, it is estimated to use 93 billion cubic meters of water and generate 20% of the world’s wastewater, mostly due to processes like dyeing and garment finishing. This scenario highlights the urgent need for transformation.

The global water crisis demands concrete solutions. Jeanologia has proven that it is possible to produce fashion responsibly, significantly reducing environmental impact without compromising quality, authenticity, creativity, or profitability.

The denim revolution is driven by innovation. Since its founding three decades ago, Jeanologia has developed a integrated ecosystem of technologies that enable zero discharge and minimal water usage. Among its specialized solutions for the denim industry are:

• Laser: A pioneering technology that replaces traditional abrasion methods, eliminating the use of water and harmful chemicals.
• eFlow: Uses nanobubbles to transport chemicals precisely to fabrics, minimizing water usage and ensuring zero discharge.
• Airwash Tech (G2 Indra): Replaces conventional water-based garment washing with air, significantly reducing both water and chemical consumption.
• H2Zero: A closed-loop water recycling system that recovers up to 95% of water used during production.

Jeanologia has implemented these technologies in over 80 countries, working with leading global manufacturers to completely transform how jeans are made. Sustainability in the textile sector is no longer a promise—it’s a measurable reality.

Since its founding, Jeanologia has been on a mission to transform the textile industry into a more ethical, sustainable, and efficient model. The company works closely with brands, retailers, and suppliers on this transformative journey, offering disruptive technologies, innovative software, and a new operational model. Their groundbreaking solutions, including laser technology, G2 ozone, Dancing Box, e-flow, H2Zero, and ColorBox, have redefined garment design and finishing standards, eliminating polluting processes and significantly reducing the use of water, energy, and chemicals. Thanks to these advancements, Jeanologia has saved millions of liters of water and eliminated harmful substances, turning its vision of a truly sustainable textile industry into reality.

In 2025, Jeanologia celebrates its 30th anniversary, marking a legacy of three decades of sustainable innovation. From the introduction of its laser technology in 1999, which revolutionized denim finishing, to its current challenge of implementing a revolutionary sustainable garment dyeing process, the Spanish company has pioneered solutions that not only benefit the environment but also optimize operational costs. Looking ahead, Jeanologia remains committed to creating an eco-efficient and ethical textile future, encouraging all industry stakeholders to join its Mission Zero initiative: dehydrate and detoxify the textile industry. No more water and toxic chemicals used in garment finishing around the world.

Devan, a global leader in sustainable textile finishes, launched an innovative sleep promoting technology, “Devan Sleep Tight”, at Heimtextil 2025. This technology enhances sleep quality and overall quality of life, as confirmed by an independent clinical trial.

Inspired by the global "Beauty Sleep" trend, Devan introduces its latest innovation in sleep wellness. The active ingredient is derived from an upcycled by-product of Australian Tea Tree oil. This active ingredient acts by two complementary pathways, inhalation and skin contact, to improve nighttime benefits and skin regeneration to provide a healthier looking skin and revitalized look by morning.

Designed for use in textiles such as bedding and sleepwear, the new solution aims to transform nightly rest into a rejuvenating ritual, perfectly aligning with modern consumers' desire for holistic self-care.

The technology boosts the melatonin action, reduces the production of ROS (reactive oxygen species), stimulates the production of antioxidant genes and protein and stimulates the collagen gene expression.

+97% Biobased microcapsules
The technology is based on microencapsulation. First the active ingredients are incapsulated. Next, the biobased microcapsules are applied to the textile. The treated textiles touch our skin and the capsules break due to friction between the body and the textile. The content of the biobased capsules is then released and absorbed by the skin, while the volatile components of the active ingredients are simultaneously inhaled.

The microcapsules are readily biodegradable (tested according to the OECD 301B guideline). Possible applications are pillows, bed sheets, bed accessories, sleepwear, ...

Clinical study
33 healthy female and male subjects, aged between 18 and 60 years, with sleep problems, were using a treated pillow cover with R-Vital NTL 10015 Sleep Tight every night for 30 days. Each subject was required to fill out the Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index and a quality of life (QoL) questionnaire, focused on the sleep quality, quality of life and overall well-being, before and after 30 days of using the respective product. The Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index (PSQI) is a scientifically validated tool widely used to reliably assess and measure sleep quality.

The data shows that after 30 days of using a pillow case treated with R-Vital NTL 10015, subjects experienced notable improvements in several key areas of sleep and quality of life. The most significant changes were seen in sleep quality, sleep latency, sleep disturbances, reduction of daytime dysfunction and quality of life.

Showcased at Heimtextil 2025 in Frankfurt
Devan’s Sleep Tight technology was prominently featured at Heimtextil in Frankfurt, both by Devan and several of its partners. Notable among them were Crispim Abreu Lda and Lameirinho, two Portuguese companies specializing in bed linen and sleepwear, as well as Naturtex from Hungary, a leading producer of quilts and pillows.

The first productions are already underway, ensuring the technology will be available on the market by the second quarter of 2025. These alliances empower Devan Sleep Tight to deliver unparalleled value to manufacturers, retailers and consumers alike.

The European Chemicals Agency’s (ECHA) investigation found that use of non-polymeric aromatic brominated flame-retardant additives pollutes the environment due to their persistence, bioaccumulation and toxicity. These substances are released to the environment throughout the product lifecycle, with waste stage being of particular concern.

ECHA has investigated, as requested by the European Commission, the uses and releases of aromatic brominated flame retardants (ABFRs), and their (potential) hazardous properties. It has also considered possible alternatives and aspects related to recycling and waste management.

The investigation focused on 60 ABFRs that are potentially on the EU market. The key findings are:

• Environmental impact
  Of all ABFRs, non-polymeric additives pose the highest environmental risks due to their tendency to leach from the material. ECHA identified five substances with particular concern, confirmed to be either persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT) or very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB). In addition, 37 ABFRs are likely to be PBT. Of these, 17 are non-polymeric additives;
• Uses and releases
  ABFRs are used in many applications. The sectors contributing the most to the overall releases are electronics, construction and textiles. Releases from the waste stage are key contributors, particularly when materials are shredded or end up as landfill;
• Alternatives
  Alternatives to ABFRs are available for many uses. These include organophosphate flame retardants and non-combustible materials. However, some organophosphate flame retardants may have similar hazard properties as ABFRs and are prone to leaching. Polymeric ABFR additives are viable alternatives to non-polymeric ABFR additives in many uses;
• Waste management
  Inefficient recycling and waste management systems may increase environmental releases of ABFRs. To address the challenges, ECHA emphasises the need to eliminate problematic plastic additives early in the value chain; and
• Group approach
  Some non-polymeric additive ABFRs are not registered under REACH. Yet, they have been detected in the environment at high concentrations. This suggests potential issues with REACH registration compliance or uncertainty about the plastic composition in imported articles. Therefore, any regulatory action on ABFRs should consider a group approach.

This investigation will support the European Commission in deciding whether to request ECHA to prepare a restriction proposal and, if so, what its scope should be. A potential restriction on flame retardants is already included in the Commission’s planning document, the Restrictions Roadmap.

Von der Faserherstellung bis zur Beschichtung: Erstmals bündelt die Techtextil vom 21. bis 24. April 2026 in Frankfurt am Main das Ausstellerangebot im Bereich Textilchemikalien und Farbstoffe in einem eigenständigen Produktbereich. Die internationale Leitmesse für technische Textilien und Vliesstoffe will eine zentrale Anlaufstelle für Anbieter und Anwender schaffen und unterstreicht damit die steigende Nachfrage nach Textile Chemicals & Dyes.

Mit der zukünftigen Bündelung schafft die Techtextil neue Synergien. Denn Textile Chemicals & Dyes werden in einer Halle mit den Fasern und Garnen und den Performance Apparel Textiles platziert. Vorstufe, Anbieter und Anwender kommen in direkter Nachbarschaft zusammen. So können sie leichter spezifische Anforderungen und Bedürfnisse kommunizieren und schneller Lösungen finden.

„Textile Chemicals & Dyes werden immer wichtiger für die Herstellung technischer Textilien und Performance Textilien. Gleichzeitig steigen die Anforderungen an Anbieter und Anwender, zum Beispiel im Hinblick auf Umweltauflagen oder Lieferketten. Auf der Techtextil bringen wir die Player zukünftig noch enger zusammen. Damit ermöglichen wir Austausch, Vergleichbarkeit und noch mehr Aufmerksamkeit für diesen zukunftsträchtigen Bereich,“ sagt Sabine Scharrer, Director Brand Management Technical Textiles & Textile Processing bei der Messe Frankfurt.

Ihre zunehmende Bedeutung unterstreicht eine Analyse des Marktforschungsunternehmens „MarketsandMarkets“ aus dem Jahr 2021. Der globale Markt für Textilchemikalien soll demnach auf ein Volumen von 33,1 Milliarden US-Dollar im Jahr 2026 wachsen. Als Treiber nennt die Studie unter anderem die steigende Nachfrage nach Chemikalien für den stark wachsenden Markt der technischen Textilien.
Textile Chemicals & Dyes sind relevant für alle Anwendungsbranchen wie Outdoor- und Schutzbekleidung, Industrie, Automobil, Luft- und Raumfahrt, Medizintechnik, Filtration und Bau.

Ob bei Vliesstoffen, beschichteten Textilien oder funktionalen Bekleidungstextilien – Chemikalien und Färbemittel sind für die Textilherstellung unverzichtbar. In verschiedenen Vorbehandlungs-, Färbe- und Veredelungsprozessen bestimmen sie das optische Erscheinungsbild von Fasern, Garnen, Vliesstoffen und textilen Flächen. Sie verleihen ihnen wichtige Funktionen. Textilchemikalien versehen Outdoor-Regenjacken mit wasserabweisender Imprägnierung, Arbeitskleidung mit Performance und sorgen für knitterfreie und weiche Bettwäsche trotz häufiger Wäschen. Sie sterilisieren medizinische Textilien für den sicheren Einsatz im OP, schützen Erosionsschutzvliese im Straßenbau vor UV-Strahlung und machen textile Industriefilter öl- und wasserabweisend. Außerdem gewährleisten sie den Flammschutz von Feuerwehranzügen und verbessern die Haltbarkeit von Airbags, damit diese ein Autoleben lang zuverlässig funktionieren.

Die Techtextil 2026 findet vom 21. bis 24. April 2026 statt.

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) and authorities from Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden have released a progress update on the process to restrict per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in Europe.

The five authorities (Dossier Submitters) and ECHA’s scientific committees for Risk Assessment (RAC) and for Socio-Economic Analysis (SEAC) continue to consider more than 5,600 scientific and technical comments received from third parties during the consultation in 2023.

This consultation input helps the Dossier Submitters to progressively update and improve the information on PFAS. It has also helped identify uses that were not specifically named in the initial proposal, and these are being incorporated into existing sector assessments or grouped into new sectors as needed. Examples include sealing applications, technical textiles, printing applications and other medical applications, such as packaging and excipients for pharmaceuticals.

Alternative restriction options, besides a full ban or a ban with time-limited derogations, are also being considered. An alternative option could, for example, involve conditions allowing the continued manufacture, placing on the market or use of PFAS instead of a ban. This consideration is particularly relevant for uses and sectors where evidence suggests that a ban could lead to disproportionate socio-economic impacts.

These alternative options are being considered for uses including, but not limited to:

• batteries;
• fuel cells; and
• electrolysers.

The proportionality of each alternative option will be evaluated and compared to the initial two restriction options of a full ban or a ban with time-limited derogations.
All this updated information is feeding into ECHA committees’ ongoing evaluation of the proposal.

The Integrated Regulatory Strategy (IRS) has increased the knowledge on chemicals and sped up identification of substances for which regulatory risk management actions are required. Refocussed IRS 2024-2028 will continue moving substances to risk management.

ECHA’s Integrated Regulatory Strategy aimed to speed up data generation, identification of groups of substances of concern, and regulatory action. It did so by integrating different regulatory processes into one approach to manage chemical risks effectively and efficiently. The strategy also encouraged collaboration between ECHA, Member States authorities and the European Commission.

The original goal of the IRS was achieved: to clarify which REACH registered substances are a high priority for regulatory risk management or data generation, and which are currently a low priority for further regulatory action.

ECHA’s sixth and final report of its Integrated Regulatory Strategy 2019-2023 shows that it achieved its goal of screening high production volume chemicals, manufactured or imported above 100 tonnes per year, that were on the European markets in 2018.

Since 2019, ECHA has grouped and screened 6 000 substances, and addressed almost all of the 4 100 high production volume chemicals. Around 1 900 of substances screened in ECHA’s assessments of regulatory needs may potentially require regulatory risk management, mostly harmonised classification and labelling (CLH) or restriction under REACH. For more than two thirds of those, further data is needed first to confirm the relevant hazards. Around 60 % of all substances screened did not require further action.

Several substance groups, identified as requiring regulatory risk management, have been included in the EU’s Restrictions Roadmap, for example bisphenols, ortho-phthalates, flame retardants, hydrocarbyl siloxanes and hydrocarbylphenols.

Ofelia Bercaru, ECHA’s Director of Prioritisation and Integration, said:
“The strategy has significantly contributed to the EU ambition towards reaching the United Nations’ 2030 Sustainable Development Goals concerning chemicals. Over the next four years, we will continue the coordinated approach towards prioritising substances for risk management, whilst maintaining our good knowledge on ECHA’s chemical database, enhancing transparency with authorities and stakeholders, and exploring synergies with ECHA’s new tasks.

Next steps
The reviewed IRS for 2024-2028 will continue to improve the protection of human health and the environment from risks posed by hazardous chemicals. ECHA, the European Commission and Member States’ authorities will focus on agreeing more swiftly the necessary risk management measures for the identified substances of concern.

The future prioritisation of authorities’ activities will focus, for example, on the one substance one assessment principle. ECHA will integrate its new tasks to this approach in coming years.

bluesign and SCTI donate the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) Methodology to ZDHC aiming to advance sustainable chemistry within the textile industry. This collaboration aims to revolutionize chemical management in the textile, leather and fashion industries, while addressing environmental impact in a holistic manner.

For decades, the use of hazardous chemicals in clothing has been a major challenge. Despite industry efforts with numerous overlapping standards and voluntary schemes - the textile, leather and fashion industries struggle with varying regulations, inconsistent data and a lack of common action. Inconsistent regulations, limited transparency, and little coordinated action hinder progress, while consumers do not receive information about the overall environmental impact of these industries.

Leading organizations in the textile sector are elevating the conversation to tackle these issues head-on with converging assessment tools.

SCTI, a group of innovative and pioneering chemical manufacturers, aims to bring positive change to the textile industry and make sustainable chemistry the norm. bluesign has extensive experience in ensuring safe and responsible chemical management, environmental and worker safety as well as resource efficiency in the production of textiles. The ZDHC Foundation, driven by major fashion brands, is on a mission to detox the fashion industry by providing tools and guidelines for sustainable chemical management.
The Start of the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI):
In 2022, SCTI and bluesign announced the development of the first comprehensive Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) for the textile industry. The pioneering work leverages best available technologies, while transcending existing chemical assessments, and introduces a one-stop-shopping tool for a broader assessment of environmental impact. Such an approach was missing. Now, the SCI introduces a standard common language for convergence and alignment throughout global textile.

The SCI brings new parameters to assess how chemical products improve resource utilisation in the processes they are used along the life cycle of a garment. Key building blocks include supply chain transparency, responsible sourcing, feedstock reducing fossil dependency, product carbon footprint, resource consumption, efficiency in use during textile production, end use impact and end-of-life of consumer applications. This transparent framework makes it easier for the industry to evaluate the sustainability impact of chemicals present in a garment and promote circularity.

A Collaborative Donation to Advance the Industry:
To advance and foster industry-wide collaboration, SCTI and bluesign are donating, the SCI to ZDHC as the cornerstone of its Chemicals to Zero (CTZ-A) program. CTZ-A represents the highest level of sustainable chemistry within ZDHC. In 2024, the SCI content will undergo ZDHC's stakeholder engagement and consultation processes, aiming to enhance the Roadmap to Zero Program by addressing sustainability and circularity. ZDHC will make the SCI content freely available to the public, enabling widespread adoption and impact.

The ZDHC program is well-positioned to complement the expertise of bluesign and SCTI and to scale its impact within a multistakeholder structure. This collaboration empowers manufacturers and brands to make informed, responsible choices in terms of chemicals and processes, committing to sustainable chemistry and benefiting society.