Aus der Branche

CARBIOS and Landbell Group, a global operator of more than 40 producer responsibility organizations (PROs) and a provider of closed-loop recycling solutions, announce the signing of a non-binding Memorandum of Understanding for the sourcing, preparation and recycling of post-consumer PET waste using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its first commercial plant in Longlaville from 2026.  

The partnership will leverage Landbell Group’s expertise and network in the sourcing of PET packaging and textile waste which will be prepared for biorecycling. Thanks to CARBIOS’ highly selective enzyme, less sorting and washing is required compared to current recycling technologies, offering future savings in energy and water use. From 2026, Landbell Group will supply CARBIOS with 15 kt/year of PET flakes, ensuring a steady supply chain for sustainable PET production. These flakes will serve as essential feedstock for CARBIOS’ production of food-grade PTA and MEG, further re-polymerized into PET.

Through the partnership with Landbell Group in Germany, the supply of multilayer trays through the CITEO tender in France  and the MoU with Indorama Ventures, CARBIOS will have sourced over 70% of its feedstock required for the 50kt/year capacity when its first commercial plant in Longlaville, France, will operate at full capacity. Close to the borders with Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg, the plant’s location is strategic for nearby waste supplies.

Through this partnership with CARBIOS, Landbell Group will ensure that the problematic PET fractions such as multilayered, colored and opaque trays from packaging waste and polyester textile waste are redirected towards recycling. In this way, Landbell Group strengthens its commitment to the development of recycling solutions to enable a circular economy.

To meet future demands on the amount of textile waste which needs to be collected and sorted, as well as the demand on recycling feedstock, it is necessary to match the demand and need for sorting of waste in Europe and create cost efficiency sorting capacities with larger scale and automation are necessary.

In an online session “Redefining Textile Waste Sorting: Impulses and findings for the future of next-gen sorting facilities” Texaid and partners talk about the current state of development and the challenges for the future.  Anna Pehrsson (Texaid), Gesine Köppe (ITA Augsburg GmbH) and partners present the results of a Technology Assessment conducted within The Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock Project (initiated by TEXAID within the ReHubs initiative) to assess the best available sorting techniques and process.

Details:  
December 4th 2023
12:30-13:30pm   
Online
For registration follow the link.

At a kick off meeting hosted by Mango, EURATEX and 20 incoming members presented ReHubs Europe, a new international non-profit organisation poised to give a boost to the textile recycling. The launch follows three years of intense preparation, and the publication of a Techno-Economic Study, which analysed the business case, cost and environmental benefits for upscaling textile waste recycling in Europe.

ReHubs Europe will gather key players from the textile value chain - textile manufacturers, fashion brands, collectors and recyclers, chemical industry, technology providers - who welcome the ReHubs joint ambition to recycle 2.5 million tons of textile waste by 2030. This requires up to 250 industrial projects across Europe, covering different types of fibre-to-fibre recycling.

ReHubs Europe is the industry’s response to the upcoming EU legislation, which sets compulsory collection and sorting of textile waste, by 2025. To manage this, an upscale of recycling capacity is needed as well as a collaboration of different players from the value chain.

Chris Deloof will lead ReHubs Europe as Executive Director. Chris has a long-standing experience in the textile sector and is a passionate advocate for cross-industry collaboration. Moreover, Chris is deeply committed to driving the transition towards a circular economy, which aligns seamlessly with ReHubs Europe's mission.

ReHubs Europe will operate from Brussels, in close partnership with EURATEX. Membership is open to any companies who wish to invest in textile waste recycling in Europe.

The Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project welcomes new partners and expands its North American geographical scope. Fashion for Good is pleased to announce the addition of lululemon as an external brand partner, joining the existing seven brand partners. They also welcome their new implementation partners Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, Goodwill Industries International Inc., and its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Additionally, Fashion for Good is pleased to recognise adidas as the project's lead sponsor, facilitating the complete realisation of the project scope.

Fashion for Good, together with Resource Recycling Systems, launched the Sorting for Circularity USA consortium project in January 2023. The project will conduct an extensive consumer survey to map the journey of a garment from closet to end of use, and present a comprehensive snapshot of textile waste composition generated in the United States. The insights gained from this 18-month project will help to scale collection, sorting, and recycling innovations and inform decisions on necessary investments and actions.

Within the first 6 months, the project has expanded to cover 6 key states: California, Texas, Florida, New York, New Jersey and Colorado. Additional implementation partners have also signed on to support the fibre composition data analysis: Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles (SMART) Association, Helpsy, United Southern Waste Material, and Goodwill Industries International Inc., with its members Goodwill of Colorado, Goodwill Industries-Suncoast, Inc., Goodwill of the Finger Lakes, and Goodwill of San Francisco Bay. Resource Recycling Systems will drive the dissemination and analysis of the consumer survey together with New York State Center for Sustainable Materials Management and Syracuse University Center for Sustainable Community Solutions, and execute the textile composition analysis using Matoha’s near infrared devices with advisory support from Circle Economy.

Demonstrating the importance of pre-competitive collaboration in tackling the industry’s biggest challenges, lululemon joins Eastman, H&M and Nordstrom as key project partners, together with Fashion for Good corporate partners adidas, Inditex, Levi Strauss & Co., and Target. Adidas' lead sponsorship ensures a deeper analysis of USA textile waste infrastructure and the identification of valuable opportunities for advancement.

In the USA, textile waste is the fastest-growing segment of the country's waste stream, with 85% of discarded textiles ending up in landfills*. Understanding the composition of material, volume and location of used textiles is crucial for capturing them and sorting them for the best and highest quality end use. Moreover, the range of national and regional geographies within the Sorting for Circularity project series enables for nuanced cross-country comparisons - revealing differences in the textile waste generated and infrastructure required.

Sorting for Circularity, a framework co-developed by Fashion for Good and Circle Economy, aims to (re)capture textile waste by unlocking the feedstock potential for recycling, expedite the implementation of game changing automated sorting technologies such as near-infrared spectroscopy and advanced textile-to-textile recycling, and drive circularity within the fashion value chain. The project builds on the success of Sorting for Circularity Europe and India, which revealed insights on material composition, volume, and location of used textiles and provided a solid foundation to accelerate textile recycling in those respective geographical locations.

*United States Environmental Protection Agency (2019). National Overview: Facts and Figures on Materials, Wastes and Recycling.

Textilabfälle sind in Europa ein Problem. Von den 7-7,5 Millionen Tonnen Textilien, die jedes Jahr entsorgt werden, werden 30-35 % getrennt gesammelt und davon 15-20 % von mittleren und größeren Sortieranlagen in der EU sortiert.

In der Sortierung werden rund 60 % der Textilien als noch tragbar klassifiziert und über Second-Hand-Märkte dem Endverbraucher verfügbar gemacht. Früher oder später ist jedoch jedes Kleidungsstück abgetragen und nicht mehr in der originären Form im Kreislauf zu halten. Um die wertvollen Ressourcen zu erhalten, die aufgewendet wurden, um die Fasern zu gewinnen, wird das Faser-zu-Faser-Recycling immer wichtiger.

Das hochwertige Textilrecycling steckt noch in den Kinderschuhen, es gibt jedoch viele erfolgsversprechende Projekte, die darauf hoffen lassen, dass die verschiedenen Faser-Recycling-Technologien zukünftig in großem Ausmaß eingesetzt werden können. Wenn dies gelingt, könnte die Textilrecyclingindustrie im Jahr 2030 eine Recyclingquote von 18 bis 26 % des gesammelten Textilabfalls erreichen. Dies könnte bis 2030 einen wirtschaftlichen, sozialen und ökologischen Wert von 3,5 bis 4,5 Milliarden Euro schaffen.

Um eine echte Kreislaufwirtschaft für Textilien in Europa zu ermöglichen, muss massiv in Sortier- und Recyclinganlagen investiert werden. Nur durch die Ausweitung um 150 bis 250 neue und ortsnahe Sortier- und Recyclinganlagen wird es möglich sein, ausreichend Ausgangsmaterial für das Recycling zu generieren, wie in der McKinsey-Studie "Turning waste into value" festgestellt wurde.

Auch bei der Sortierung für Second-Hand-Textilien und Textilien für das Recycling gibt es eine Technologie- und Kapazitätslücke. Um diese zu schließen und um sicherzustellen, dass künftig hochwertige Rohstoffe aus nicht tragbaren Textilabfällen in großem Umfang verfügbar gemacht werden können, wurde das Projekt "Transform Textile Waste into Feedstock" gestartet. Geleitet wird das im Rahmen der ReHubs-Initiative aufgesetzte Projekt von TEXAID, gemeinsam mit namhaften Stakeholdern der textilen Wertschöpfungskette.

Ziel des Projekts ist die Planung einer Sortieranlage, die die Anforderungen an den künftigen Bedarf des Faser-zu-Faser-Recyclings erfüllt und zukünftig nachhaltigere Textilien durch die Verwendung recycelter Fasern ermöglicht. Um ein hochwertiges Textilrecycling zu ermöglichen, hat sich TEXAID bereit erklärt, weitere Sortieranlagen in Europa zu errichten und zu betreiben, die erste mit einer Kapazität von bis zu 50.000 Tonnen bis Ende 2024.

Unternehmen wie Concordia, CuRe Technology, Decathlon, Inditex, Indorama Ventures, L'Atelier des Matières, Lenzing, Marchi & Fildi, PurFi, Södra, Worn Again und andere nehmen an dem Projekt teil, um gemeinsam Technologien und die Wirtschaftlichkeit für die skalierte Sortierung für Wiederverwendung und Recycling zu bewerten. Die ITA Academy GmbH (in Zusammenarbeit mit der RWTH Aachen) wurde zusammen mit CETIA mit der Bewertung der Technologien beauftragt. Das Ergebnis wird ein innovatives Sortiersystem 4.0 sein, das auf funktionsübergreifenden Technologien aufbaut, in deren Mittelpunkt Digitalisierung und Automatisierung stehen.

December 29, Renewcell dispatched the first shipment of Circulose® dissolving pulp produced at its Renewcell 1 plant in Sundsvall to a customer. This sale is the latest step in the ramp-up of Renewcell 1 to its initial capacity of 60,000 tonnes per year.

Founded by innovators from Stockholm’s KTH Royal Institute of Technology in 2012, Re:NewCell AB (publ) (‘Renewcell’) is a multi-award-winning sustaintech company based in Sweden. The company’s vision is to make fashion circular. Through its patented process, Renewcell is able to recycle cellulosic textile waste, such as worn-out cotton clothes and production scraps, transforming it into a pristine new material called Circulose®.

• Leitgedanke „Textile Intelligence“ und Nachhaltigkeit im Fokus

Das seit 150 Jahren agierende Traditionsunternehmen Schoeller Textil AG machte es sich stets zur Aufgabe, textile Innovationen im Einklang mit der Natur zu entwickeln. Jetzt vollzieht das Unternehmen ein umfängliches Rebranding. Das Ergebnis verkörpert den neu definierten Leitgedanken „Textile Intelligence“ – die Entwicklung und erfolgreiche Umsetzung innovativer Textilien und intelligenter Textiltechnologien.

“Das Ziel des Rebrandings ist es, die traditionellen Markenwerte in einer völlig neuen Markenpräsenz zu kommunizieren. So entstand ein geschärftes Markenprofil, eine klare Markenstrategie und -tonalität sowie ein cleanes, modernes Corporate Design. Wir werden unserem Nachhaltigkeitsanspruch durch den Ausbau digitaler Touchpoints, deren crossmedialen Nutzung und einer verstärkten Onlinepräsenz gezielt nachkommen. Simplifiziert, geradlinig, nachhaltig – ganz im Sinne unserer größten Inspirationsquelle: der Natur,“ Antonio Gatti Balsarri, Chief Commercial Officer, über den digitalen Fokus der neuen Marke

Transparenz und Nachhaltigkeit - damit die zentralen Anforderungen von Kunden gegenüber Brands - stellen die Kernaspekte des Rebrandings dar. Im Logo-Design wurde eine starke Reduzierung der Logo-Elemente durch die Eliminierung der Signatur-Farbe Rot und dem schwarzen Hintergrund vorgenommen. Das modernisierte Schoeller Logo lässt sich nun gepaart mit dem neuen Markenclaim „Textile Intelligence“ durch die gewonnene Transparenz deutlich ressourcenschonender produzieren.

Schoeller ist bluesign system partner der ersten Stunde und nutzt das Higg Fem Modul zur Einschätzung der nachhaltigen Performance. Höchste Qualitäts- und Nachhaltigkeitsstandards in der Produktion bedeuten neben umweltschonenden Herstellungsprozessen und sorgfältiger Materialauswahl, insbesondere faire Arbeitsbedingungen zu gewährleisten. Schoeller folgt einem Code of Conduct, um transparente Produktionsketten, den Schutz der Umwelt und faire Arbeitsbedingungen zu garantieren.

„Zero Textile Waste“ wird zu einer gezielten Markenstrategie. Die Produktion von Textilien und Textiltechnologien wird kontinuierlich zur Schonung von Ressourcen optimiert – dennoch sind die Verarbeitungsprozesse oft aufwendig und komplex. Hier bietet Schoeller neue Lösungsansätze zum Thema Zero Waste.

So wurde der Sustainability Webshop „Schoeller re-Fabric“ bereits erfolgreich veröffentlicht. Textile Restbestände aus der Produktion werden hierüber an Designer und kleinere Produktionen verkauft, wodurch die gesamte Nutzung der Produktionsmenge erhöht und Textilverschwendung vermieden wird.

The ReHubs initiative brings together key European and world players to solve the European textile waste problem by transforming “waste” into a resource, and to boost textile circular business model at large scale.

This collaboration is set to turn the societal textile waste issue into a business opportunity and to fulfil the EU ambitions of the Green Deal, of the mandatory texile waste collection by end 2024 and the transition into Circular Economy.

In 2020 EURATEX launched the ReHubs initiative to promote collaboration across the extended textile value chain and considering all perspectives on chemicals, fibers making, textiles making, garments production, retail and distribution, textiles waste collection, sorting and recycling.

In June 2022 ReHubs completes a Techno Economic master Study (TES) which researches critical information on the feedstock (textile waste) data, on technology, organizational and financial needs to recycle 2.5 million tons of textile waste by 2030 and to effectively launch the ReHubs.

EURATEX’s ReHubs initiative plans to pursue fiber-to-fiber recycling for 2.5 million tons of textile waste by 2030
According ReHubs Techno Economic Master Study (TES), the textile recycling industry could generate in Europe around 15,000 direct new jobs by 2030, and increase need for nearshoring and reshoring of textile manufacturing.

The textile recycling industry in Europe could reach economic, social and environmental benefits for €3.5 billion to €4.5 billion by 2030
“Transform Waste into Feedstock” announced as first project supported by the ReHubs, and aiming at building up a first 50,000 tons capacity facility by 2024.

Europe has a 7-7.5 million tons textile waste problem, of which only 30-35% is collected today.  

Based on the ambitious European Waste law, all EU Member States must separately collect the textile waste in 2 years and half. While some countries are designing schemes to face the waste collection challenge, currently no large-scale plan exist to process the waste.

The largest source of textile waste (85%) comes from private households and approximately 99% of the textile waste was made using virgin fibers.

Euratex  assesses that to reach a fiber-to-fiber recycling rate of around 18 to 26 percent by 2030, a capital expenditure investment in the range of 6 billion € to 7 billion € will be needed, particularly to scale up sufficient sorting and processing infrastructure. The economic, social, and environmental value which could be realized, potentially total an annual impact of €3.5-4.5 billion by 2030.

Once matured and scaled, the textile recycling industry could become a profitable industry with a total market size of 6-8 billion € and around 15,000 direct new jobs by 2030.

Next steps of the ReHubs initiative

• A European textile recycling roadmap proposing Objectives and Key Results to recycle fiber-to-fiber 2.5 million of textile waste by 2030
• A leading collaboration hub with large players and SMEs from across an extended European textile recycling value chain
• A first concrete portfolio of 4 launching projects:
  - Transform textile waste into feedstock
  - Increase the adoption of mechanically recycled fibers in the value chain
  - Expand capacity by solving technical challenges for thermo-mechanical textiles recycling
  - Create capsule collection with post-consumer recycled products

The 1^st project addresses current sorting technologies which have limits to identify materials with sufficient accuracy for the subsequent circular recycling processes. The “Transform Waste into Feedstock” project will focus on further developing and scaling such sorting technologies. The project group led by Texaid AG aims on building up a first 50,000 tons facility by the end 2024.

• Carbios has succeeded in producing a 100% enzymatically recycled white PET fiber from colored textile waste
• At the same time, the company has produced the first 100% recycled PET bottles, that have successfully passed the food contact validation tests, from the same textile waste.
• Carbios received €827,200 for the validation of this final technical stage of the project co-funded by ADEME

Carbios announced the validation of the 3^rd and final technical step of the CE-PET research project, co-funded by ADEME3 (France’s Environment and Energy Management Agency), for which Carbios is the lead partner alongside its academic partner TWB. This achievement confirms, once again, the full potential and breadth of Carbios’ enzymatic recycling process, C-ZYME™. This breakthrough innovation makes it possible to produce a wide variety of products of equivalent quality to those of petro-sourced origin from any PET waste, including textiles.
 
The first white PET fiber recycled enzymatically from colored textile waste
Worldwide, around 90 million tons of PET are produced each year, more than 2/3 of which are used to manufacture fibers. However, only 13% of textile waste is currently recycled, mainly for downcycling, i.e. for lower quality applications (such as padding, insulators or rags). By successfully manufacturing at pilot scale a white PET fiber that is 100% enzymatically recycled from colored textile waste, Carbios is paving the way for the circular economy in the textile industry.  C-ZYME™ is now on the doorstep of industrialization and will soon enable the biggest brands to move closer to their sustainability goals.
 
Emmanuel Ladent, Chief Executive Officer of Carbios: « Thanks to our breakthrough process, it will soon be possible to manufacture, on a large scale, t-shirts or bottles using polyester textile waste as raw material. This is a major breakthrough that gives value to waste that currently has little or no value. It is a concrete solution that opens up a global market of 60 million tons per year of potential raw materials and will help to reduce the use of fossil resources. »
 
Separate collection of textile waste soon to be mandatory in Europe
From 1 January 2025 the separate collection of textile waste, which is already in place in some countries, will be mandatory for all EU Member States (European Directive 2018/851 on waste).  Carbios’ process will enable this waste to be sustainably recovered and included in a true circular economy model.
 
These technological validations were carried out as part of the CE-PET research project, co-funded by ADEME3. In particular, the project aimed to develop Carbios’ enzymatic PET recycling process on textile waste. The C-ZYME™ technology is complementary to thermomechanical recycling and will make it possible to process plastic and textile waste deposits that are currently not or poorly recovered. For the validation of this stage of the project, Carbios received €827,200 (€206,800 in grants and €620,400 in repayable advances).

As part of its mission to a fully circular fashion industry, ISKO has joined forces with the CFS by lablaco to show its commitment to this important cause. At Grand Palais Éphémère in Paris on 9-12 December, ISKO engaged with industry leaders from across the world to demonstrate its approach to circularity.
 
At its virtual gallery, ISKO guided its guests through its Metaverse and discussed its goal to eliminate virgin fibres in its fabrics and how it plans to achieve it.
 
Guests were able to dress their avatars in their very own ISKO VR denim jacket and ISKO worked with the Institute of Digital Fashion (IoDF) to design this VR art installation, which represents how it is pushing the boundaries of what is possible, making fabrics from textile waste.